Introduction
This write-up is to help our car newbies in upgrading their car performance in a minimal way, and the correct way of course. No surbo, no micro compressor, no cyclone, no turbo jet, nor stromberg, heck not even stupid magnet gimmicks nor fake blow off valve! And the most important thing is, this guide will retain street drivability and very minimum noise increase (if possible).

Intake modification
The factory airbox has its own benefit such to avoid your filter from water splash as well as to reduce engine noise. Some people might think that the factory airbox is restrictive, but it is not always true since there are also aftermarket performance airbox as well. For example, the infamous Mugen air filter box (for Honda) which is actually smaller than OEM airbox. Another famous brand is ARC, which also makes intercooler, oil cooler and other performance stuffs.

1. Standard drop-in filter
If you hate engine noise, OEM filter replacement is what you would want. The standard drop in filter is actually not that bad. It is just that it has less surface area which restricts intake air suction. You can get those aftermarket performance drop-in filters such as K&N, Pipercross or HKS (just to name a few). However, I would like to remind that sponge type filter (such as HKS SPF) might have the best airflow but it's the worst in filtration. To choose a good aftermarket drop-in filter, you must make sure that it has more surface area compare to stock, else it is just no better. Performance drop-in usually does not give the best high-end power, but expect some good low end gains.

Pros : less noise, good low end power, low profile look
Cons : a little restrictive, sometimes no better than stock

2. Open-pod type filter
The airbox is removed and cone or dome/mushroom shaped filter is installed. Open-pod usually have more surface area compare to drop-ins because it has more surface area, thus more air can be sucked. However, this setup tends to suck hot air from the engine bay especially when the car is in parallel. Hot air is not good because it tend to have lower mass compare to cold air. Cold air has more mass, and more oxygen for combustion thus creates more efficient burning and more power. Somehow, this is not an issue when the car is moving especially at higher speed. Some people make heatshield to avoid hot air from the engine being sucked to the air filter area. Another good way to get cold air source is by having a cold air intake or air duct to supply air from outside of the car. Usually the air duct is placed behind the bumper. Another idea is to use custom long intake ram pipe and the air filter is positioned behind the bumper. The downside to this setup is that the airfilter can get dirty easily since our road is quite dusty and we have rain throughout the year.

There are many choices out there but most people would get K&N due to its reputation and availability. Another recommended one is the APEX'i Power Intake. This filter has one of the best filtration per performance compare to other competitors. HKS Super Power Flow is somehow not recommended for street usage due to our dusty road condition since it has poor filtration. For a user with tight budget, Simota would be a good choice if you want to try open-pod setup plus the aggressive sound of the engine.

Pros : better intake suction, more midrange to high end power
Cons : more noise, possibility of sucking hot air, can get dirty easily

3. Aftermarket intake ram pipe
Some of you might wonder whether to get aftermarket ram pipe or use the stock one. If you are getting aftermarket ones, make sure it is built with quality. If possible, avoid stainless steel ram pipes because they tend to absorb heat easily, thus increasing the intake air temperature. Iceman makes good ram pipe which is heat resistant. Size is also important. The smaller the diameter, the higher air velocity and the bigger the more air mass is allowed. Too small would be restrictive and too big is a waste. However, there is a type of ram pipe design which is fat in the middle. You can find this type of setup in some Honda. I am yet to find out the advantage, but the design is probably optimized for VTEC operation.

Pros : smoother air flow
Cons : possible heat issue

This post has been edited by antonio_zth: Feb 16 2006, 07:18 PM

Exhaust modification
Many people are just too careless in exhaust modification. They love the cheap loud exhaust, which gave them additional 20 psychological horsepower. For the extractor, everybody seemed to be suggesting 4-2-1 extractor, which could be just right for their street cars but the problem is they chose a custom made extractor made by some non-reputable company or by normal apek workshop. Those extractors are no more than factory standard, or might be worse. Making an extractor is not as simple as wielding steel pipes together, or bending the pipes as you wish, but the calculation of the length and the curve of each pipe which are the most important. That is why tuning house or performance part companies produce tuned extractors at expensive cost. Playing with extractor is no joke. Cheap ones are waste of money.

1. 4-2-1 type extractor
This setup gives power through out the rpm range. Drivability at lower rpm is quite good, making it the most suitable setup for street usage. Expect more top speed compare to 4-1 type.

Pro : Good power all across the rpm range, more top speed, good for cruising
Cons : Weak top end power, torque ends earlier

2. 4-1 type extractor
This setup gives more top end power. The low end power is weaker compare to 4-2-1 setup, but usually the power gain is significant from the midrange up to high rpm. This causes the torque range to come later, thus creating more horsepower at high range rpm compare to 4-2-1 setup. 4-1 is best for high revving motors like VTEC and MIVEC (just to name a few.

Pro : More midrange and top end power, higher hp, good for acceleration
Cons : Poor at lows, lower top speed compare to 4-2-1

3. I drive a Proton/Perodua.... which extractor should I get?
For Proton with 4G13/4G15, one of the best extractor by far in the local market is the PowerZone 4-2-1. It is made for better street performance and developed under proper R&D. HotBits also make extractors for 4G13/4G15 but a few reviews mentioned that it tends to get cracked after awhile. I would say, stay away from custom made extractors if you are looking for some performance gain, or else just get any brand/custom made if you just want to replace your old rusty ones. For those with 4G92/4G93, the OEM 4G92 MIVEC extractor should be good.

As for Perodua, there is not much choice for normal aspirated application. But if I am not mistaken, PowerZone do have tuned length extractor for Kancil.

Other than that, HotBits probably have extractors for various Proton/Perodua models.

4. Exhaust piping
Exhaust piping diameter is a crucial part in the exhaust system. For those with 1600cc engines and below, stick with anything less than 2.0" except if you had extensive jobs on the engine such as higher compression pistons or performance camshaft upgrades. For stock VTEC or MIVEC 1600cc and above, around 2.0" to 2.25" is acceptable. Some people even use 2.5" on stock VTEC (like myself) but the result is poor at lower rpm because the exhaust gas have less velocity to travel. Apart from the diameter, the piping route is also important. Straight pipes are not really advisable for street because they tend to get in the way when you're running on a road bump. It is annoying and you will get scratches on the bottom of the pipe, or worse bent pipes. Piping that follows the original route is the best. While it gives you stock appearance, many people claim that it gives better low end to midrange power compare to straight piping. While weak at low end, straight piping somehow tend to give better acceleration power because exhaust gas gets out easily because of the shorter pipe compare to stock.

5. Muffler
Muffler is more to cosmetic rather than performance. There is minimal difference in power output if we compare straight-thru type muffler (also known as N1 type) with s-flow type muffler (which usually have big resonator box). The later is seemed to be more preferable for street usage because more silent, thus giving more pleasant driving experience especially while in cruising mode. Personally, I would recommend Tanabe s-flow like the G-Medallion series because they are very silent when idling and cruising. This avoids attention from the authority. If you are going for N1 type, make sure it is made of good quality. Avoid imitations, they are widely sold by Wei Yip (tidak tipu customer) at surprisingly cheap price. Good exhaust doesn't come cheap but they are worth it. Try to spend some time to go to 'kedai potong' and try look for used branded exhaust. They are worth it. Other than that, exhaust with JASMA tag (not JASMA brand) should be good enough for street. From my experience and observations, JASMA approved exhaust tend to be quiet, unless the used mufflers are already running out of fiber. If your setup is still noisy, it is advisable to install a resonator (bullet silencer) in the middle.

The newer Proton Saga/Iswara has very good example on bad muffler setup. The exhaust tends to get noisy and noisy after awhile because of low quality fiber inside the muffler. Besides, normal cars should not have noisy exhaust, it is lame. They are even louder than my Tanabe even when my car is in VTEC mode!

6. Catalytic converter...to remove or not?
It depends. Cat converters are the biggest restriction to the exhaust gas flow. Removing it will definitely release some more power, but it is bad for environment. If your engine is badly tuned or always running rich, I suggest that just leave them on. Cat converters do not contribute anything to exhaust noise.

7. What is bullet silencer?
Some people also refer this as 'cherry bomb'. It is a small cylinder shaped resonator which usually placed in the middle of the exhaust piping. It functions as a muffler, to reduce exhaust noise. Due to its size, it is not as good as the rear muffler but still helpful because usually there is no space below the car that allows one to put a big muffler. To choose a correct size, the inner diameter should be more or less equal to the overal piping diameter to avoid restriction or bottleneck.

8. Flexible pipe
Usually installed after the extractor. The purpose is to minimize exhaust piping vibration and avoid the piping joint from being cracked. This is because the engine tends to vibrate and flexes backwards when rammed, so a flexible pipe will make sure that exhaust piping is not bent.

Somehow, rear wheel drive engines are exceptional because of the longitudinal engine layout that flexes to the left or right instead of front and rear.


Important notes!
* Top end power = power at higher rpm level
* Top speed = possible highest speed achieved

Feel free to comment and discuss. I will update this write-up once in a while.
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Useful links :

Advanced Header Design Tech Information by Team-Integra.net
Exhaust Theory and Design by Burns Stainless LLC

This post has been edited by soulfly: Apr 28 2006, 06:37 PM

forced induction should be quite easy and not much hassle compare to NA...

but i'll try to gather some information regarding banana type and normal type turbo manifold

That should be another level of mod.

Oversized throttle body : Might be a good idea for turbo. For NA, it's only benefit if you have extensive mods on your engine, like performance cams, high compression pistons or re-stroked engine

Extra injectors : If you're running stock turbo, you injector still can supply enough fuel eventhough you run higher boost than stock because no matter how high you set the max boost, stock turbo has its limitation. Install extra injector if you're not confident or just to be safe. For bigger turbo and higher boost, very advisable to get bigger cc injectors instead of just extra injectors.

ITB : good idea for NA tuning, but not advisable for noobs if they don't know what they're doing.

any info bout bullet?
yess... maybe this info should be pinned

I though 4-2-1 for pick up not much max speed But

4-1 low pick up but got max speed?

did i mentioned anything about max speed for 4-1? no i did not.

This post has been edited by soulfly: Feb 15 2006, 06:38 PM

Thanks soulfly...

BTW one question....if i pinned this should i delete all posts after post #2?? This aint a discussion right?

This post has been edited by antonio_zth: Feb 15 2006, 07:03 PM

I leave it as a discussion.

those galvanised 4-2-1 extractor selling at rm180, is it consider ahpek extractor ?

So cheap.... high probability that those are custom made ones.

Performance wise? Argueable... since the right extractor design must be properly tuned. Different primary/secondary pipe length leads to different kind of powerband.

i know everco, sunway can do custom made extractor.

Nice article. Hope you can do something on inner-engine mods like camshafts and porting.

everco mostly do for sotck cars, heck my replacement piping system is made by them, so far so good, as its following the stock design, i can only mention durability, and 6 months down the road with no sign of rust (steel)

if those ah pek shop say that they can calculate the extractor and build it based on thier calculation knowledge..
true or not? or they'r just blow water?

the extractor is the most sensitive part in the engines breathing system. i wouldnt recommend ANY custom extractors no matter what they say. this is because if its wrong then ull end up with crappy power and be disappointed. stay away from them man...seriously. i would only recommend performance brands extractors or stock extractors... thats it.

as for the air filters... heres the thing....

open pod's advantage is that it sucks more air coz its open and able to suck from all over the place around it. while replacement elements in an airbox is restricted suction because it sucks air from one source which is the hose..

best solution would be to combine both... get an open pod, make a custom air box for it... and shove in many many many many (mebbe 2 or 3 big ones la) hoses into the air box from the front..... this should give massive amounts of air....and more importantly...massive amounts of COLD air.

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Feb 16 2006, 02:30 AM

Kudos!

But I hv a bit to say,

>>"custom made extractor made by some non-reputable company or by normal apek workshop. Those extractors are no more than factory standard, or might be worse."

not all customized extractors r bad, if we know the correct lengths for our car, we can get it custom made by Apek shops or if the "cap-yam" is duplicated with correct lengths.

>>"Muffler is more to cosmetic rather than performance. "

the muffler is part n parcel of the exhaust system that influence the engine performance. The fact that S-flow type give better low-end performance and better FC than Straight-flow type explains by itself.

This post has been edited by R40s: Feb 16 2006, 10:52 AM

that's crazy for its too elaborate and time consuming and makes your engine bay messy with all the hoses. open pod + heatshield + naca duct on the hood. simpler, right?

@kev da man
simpler yes, but heatshields only reduces the amount of hot air being sucked in...

the way i stated will ensure ONLY cold air is being sucked in. or at least whatever the air temp is outside. time consuming? errr...depends on how elaborate u make the box. u could always use those chrome windscreen sunshade thingies to make a heatshield + airbox (2 in 1) with those hoses. as for how messy it is...depends on the car actually...placement of airfilter, where to direct the hose etc etc

@r40s
extractors is not only length bro...the bends counts as well...so does the size n god knows what other sh!t. cant really remember coz i read this online a few years ago when i was doing some research on it. hence the reason i say its the most sensitive part.

that's where the duct comes in lar..... unless you're driving a carbie then i dotn see why the hot air keeps getting sucked by the intake, unless you're at a standstill.

Proper tuning is made under proper R&D and benchflow testing is one of it.

fish scale is neat, but sometimes it may leak as well

piping weld shows how skillful the shop worker is

This post has been edited by soulfly: Feb 16 2006, 12:50 PM

What is the stock type of extractor for B16A bigV? 4-2-1?

4 -1 if not mistaken. better top end power for the vtec

Bro, I agree wif ur custom airbox + cone/mushroom filter, shud be better than juz heat shield + open-pod. But u don't hv to make many hoses until the airbox look like an octopus

With proper calculation, estimate the net flow-area of the filter, u can provide one hose with about 1.5 times the filter's flow-area will do.

About the extractor, I'm not saying only the length matters, it also depend on how smooth the inner surface, and the bends are actually made to minimize resistance to flow n to accomodate all the fingers at equal lengths so as to produce equal flows through all the fingers. I hv seen some models hv curves available for estimating the optimum finger lengths.


This post has been edited by R40s: Feb 16 2006, 02:53 PM

dont forget you need to measure the CFM of air when your engine is at its peak, if you dont want to lose horses.

Anyone knows what brands are available in KL for knock-off Twin Loop mufflers other than the original Mugen. I know there is Datco for local brand. Is the quality good in terms of performance and noise level? Anyone tested it yet?
What other brands available?

cfm meter perhaps? dont know how to 'actually' do that, but i could tell the theory behind that.

how about ZENDEN extractor?

they are selling cheap. around rm200 plus or below.

Pinned for now and will be moving to the new subforum when ready.

a 4-2-1 extractor require how much thermal wrap?. Aftermarket thermal wrap is 7m length with 8 stainless steel clip.

zenden to me stands in between ciplak and the branded ones...i mayb wrong...

Zenden is most likely fall into 'accessories' category... same like Marco, F-1 Racing, Datco, Rimus (imitation of Remus) and various other generic brands that makes exhaust. I believe they stand for OEM replacement category instead of true performance.

which shop bend the best 4-2-1 extractor ?

any iswara 1.3 ab owner can list out that they mod for their intake and exhaust.... now i heard u all say custom made are not good.. so i think if want to change whole exhaust system i think i be stick to branded i guess
..

thanks...

This post has been edited by eng98: Feb 17 2006, 07:20 PM

there is 1 exaust specialist shop in puchong what is the shop name?

Where is it located? Opposite IOI mall or is it next to the college?

i think it's wei yip exhaust.

do u guys know, where can get ramspeed extractor ? n where is ramspeed shop

I am using Hyundai Accent 1.5 (A) (should be 4G15)

Need some "advice" on the intake and exhaust that i should buy/change

Extractor : 4-2-1 from Powerzone (last i heard it is RM800 right?)
Air Filter : Simota open pod (probably "tarik" it to bumper)
Exhaust Piping : ???
Muffler : ????

What/where should i get my exhaust and muffler (not too expensive la)
Btw, if i were to "mod" it stage by stage, which should i mode first? Intake or exhaust?
And, my friend said that Accent throttle body is much much more smaller compared with his Wira 1.5 (any effect on this?)

And, any comment on http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/sho...ead.php?t=26975 Zenden Bullet Twister?

This post has been edited by ed0gawa: Feb 19 2006, 09:11 PM

PowerZone's 4-2-1 extractor was RM400 the last time I ask for pricequote. You'll get two for RM800

For me, a step by step would be extractor -> air filter -> muffler -> camshaft -> piping.

The only problem for camshaft upgrades nowadays, none of the manufacturers seemed to bother making cams optimized for automatics.

I put piping for the last is because oversizing the exhaust piping does not do much. You could even feel power loss at lower rpm. Besides, you're on automatic. For automatic, the best performance mod is to gain as much power as possible from the lower till the midrange rpm.

For the muffler, maybe you could try look for 2nd hand Tanabe s-flow.... they're usually priced below RM400. For value setup, maybe you can get an 'F-1' brand muffler. It's kinda 'cap ayam' but my cousin had one of those last time... s-flow type with big 'stomach'. The sound is not noisy. And probably, you can remove the catalytic converter and replace it with bullet silencer to reduce more noise.

O_o, wooT~ that's cheap at RM400 (considering my fren got his cap ayam for RM300 and he told me PZ cost RM800 .. damn him...)

I do need more low end power (did i mention accent sux at low end?)
Looks like my initial stage of mods will cost RM800 or so (extractor,cheapo simota,and muffler)
Is upgrading the camshaft important?

camshaft makes most power compare to everything else

anyone here knows where is ram speed exhaust specialist ???

how about from J-FA sunway...custom manifold 4-1...

my friend make custom...same diameter like the original twin loop...u want ka?.

I've never been to JFA, but I bet they don't have benchflow test.

However, turbo manifolds should not worry too much, as long as they're of matched length and good quality.

It's just for the NA that matters.

What's the quality like? I don't want noisy mufflers. If possible you could PM me the price and location. If got pic even better. Thanks.

what can i say the muffler is not so noisy...very bassy muffler...only heard when vtec open only...location in lumut perak...if serious buyer can send to kl...pic will post it...item is used but made from high quality stainless steel and high temp resistant fiber...

my engine is louder than my muffler at WOT w/VTEC

ops i think the name in RANSPEED not ramspeed.

any idea where the shop located?

@Soulfly

U're from Miri rite? Do u know where can get Powerzone's 4-2-1 extractor and also other Powerzone's stuff like camshaft, exhaust piping, muffler and lots more?

Mine exhaust sound kicks in at 2500rpm to 3000 rpm then at high rpm my engine is louder than exhaust

You know EON at Saberkas commercial centre there? They got PowerZone stuffs. My friend is working there.

i'm from miri too.. wondering where i can find drop in type filter for kenari. thanx

Most accessories shop will have it. But I prefer Tiong Hee, because they have plenty of stuffs, many choices.

If you're looking for original K&N, I think Siong Fah has it.

Some drop in will actually cost powerloss.

There was a test done on an Acura RSX with K20A2 engine with drop in K&N filter, the result was lower by 1hp for max power compare to stock

hey sifus all

so far for the whole exhaust setup, extractor shd give the biggest difference to the performance rite? how about muffler? will aftermarket muffler gives advantage over stock muffler? (for NA car)

muffler gives very very minimal difference... sometimes almost none, or worse.

most of the time muffler is just for noise reduction and for appearance.

extarctor is the main 1, can feel the difference

how bout the middle piping? for na cars ppl always recommend max 2 inches...
does that give differences as well? something to do with backpressure?

For the center piping.....

There is always the minimum, and the maximum specification before you get power loss for the whole system. I cannot confirm you what's the max and min size, because it also depends on the engine characteristic and the input at each cycle.

An example....

Let say the piping is 50mm at stock, giving you a lot of torque from 4000-6000rpm.

Then you increase the size to let say 55mm. The possibility is that you may gain torque only later, at around 5000-7000rpm. You see... your max torque has been shifted to higher rpm. To make it simple.... just say that the power comes late. The advantage of a late torque is you may have more maximum hp, but of course at much higher rpm.

However, there might be another situation where increasing the size would surpass the maximum spec... let say 65mm... where your engine had some power loss and your torque is lower all across the rpm range. This is possibility too.

I just changed my extractor using Hot Bits 4-2-1
heh heh
Power Zone's must add another Rm100 so decided to try Hot Bits

The pick up improved significantly and it feel comfortable accelerating.

Sound wise......above 2500-2700 rpm, there''s an increase in sound
normally I drive around 1800-2200rpm. Rarely go above 2500rpm unless going up hill.

Anyway my other mods to my exhaust system are the removal of my catalytic converter and my resonator(bullet/centre muffler) which I replaced with different type which is supposed to be better.

One of the things that really gave significant extra power was the removal of catalytic converter. It's the biggest restriction in the exhaust system.

somehow i feel that the 4-2-1 made a bigger difference.
I removed the catalytic converter about 6 months ago and.....the difference isnt as much as the one I felt recently. Perhaps, the reason there is so much difference is being the fact that I already removed my cat con and the 4-2-1's effect could be felt even more.....

just a thought....well it doesnt matter cause I am happy with it.
Worth every penny I spent....

the previous one was 4-1? what car was it?

are you referring to mine?
if you are then my previous one was a stock. Think its a 4-2-1 as well based on the way the tube connects. Kia Spectra. Korean scrap metal.

but I am happy with it

Want to ask.. modification to the intake air filter (open pod/ram intake pipe) as well as extractor & exhaust modification.. is this street-legal and no problem with JPJ? Planning to do it on my Wira soon..

'supposed' to be legal

i just had a new transplant to MITSUBISHI 6A10(1.6 V6, 24valve)
it was a halfcut, so it didn come vf da exhaust

so any recommendations on wat type of exhaust system 2 use?
(im a noob in exhausts)
quote da price n place 2 do also.....

SPECS of 6A10:
6A10
- Displacement: 1597 cc
- Power: 140 PS (103 kW) @ 7000 rpm
- Torque: 147 Nm @ 4500 rpm
- Power density: 7.71
- Engine type: V type 6 cylinder DOHC 24 valve
- Fuel system: ECI multiple (electrically controlled gasoline injection)
- Fuel type: Unleaded premium gasoline
- Compression ratio: 10
- Bore: 73 mm
- Stroke: 63.6 mm
- Fuel consumption at 10-15 modes: 8.3 L/100 km

6A10 can be found in year 93/94 Lancer and Mirage
__________________________________________________________
im plannin 2 do tuning also after doin da exhaust, because it is only givin me 150km for rm50(1.92p/l)

stick with the original header/extractor..... but probably for the piping you can try 2" diamter piping.

and it looks like your fuel consumption is comparable with my b16a. it should be normal because it's a V6.... extra cylinders plus extra weight

2.0 diameter?
can explain like da mid-box or sumthin n all?
(da whole system)juz tell me wat 2 ask da shop

This post has been edited by motherker: Apr 6 2006, 11:20 PM

Ok for your 6A10, its a 1.6 engine, and its a V6. So basically, your extractor should look like 6-2-1 if its gonna end up with one single muffler. Nowadays most v6 goes with 6-2, with twin mufflers and a crossover pipe between the two outgoing pipes, which looks kinda like a H.

Before you do up your exhaust system, first decide what you want. What kind of driving style do you want? High rev, power coming in the top RPM range, or normal driving, maximizing torque delivery on the lower RPM range? Do you like to hear exhaust noise, or you want the noise to be kept to a minimum? All these questions will affect your final decision.

i would like minimum sound.......
i drive normally.....
i want high-end power.....
i like da look of twin mufflers(like da latest Perdana V6)......
so......wat 2 ask da shop ?
recommend good shops around klang.....
n how much will it cost?

This post has been edited by motherker: Apr 7 2006, 11:58 PM

I got a question regarding the bullet.
What is the difference between a straight flow and the spinning one? Does the spinning ones keep more air? If so what are the advantages?
And what is the difference between a short and a long bullter? Does the size really matter? Will a car with a lower CC lose power if equipped with a long bullet?

i'm not pretty sure what u mean by 'spinning one' .... but straight flowing inlet should provide better flow. the smoother the gas flow, the better it is.

between short and long.... the shorter is better. in fact.... no bullet will give even better gas flow. but the thing is.... the purpose of a bullet is to reduce noise. the longer or the bigger, the better it is.

s-flow resonator works the best at noise reduction.

i've got myself 2.0inch piping+long bullet(kind of twisting shape)<-recommended by shop owner, he said can jimat minyak<<

my setup for my humble 6A10 is = 2.0inch piping+long bullet(twistin type)+Perdana V6 twin muffler

feedback:engine feels very responsive when revved up....(mechanic told last time da air from da engine choked 2 come out of the 1.5wira exhaust setting)
haha......juz press da pedal a lil bit aso, da rpm climbs up
laz time, like u feel a lag.....

.....VROOM..VROOM....VROOM......eat my dust, Perdana V6 S**k*r

i've got myself 2.0inch piping+long bullet(kind of twisting shape)<-recommended by shop owner, he said can jimat minyak<<

my setup for my humble 6A10 is = 2.0inch piping+long bullet(twistin type)+Perdana V6 twin muffler

feedback:engine feels very responsive when revved up....(mechanic told last time da air from da engine choked 2 come out of the 1.5wira exhaust setting)
haha......juz press da pedal a lil bit aso, da rpm climbs up
laz time, like u feel a lag.....

.....VROOM..VROOM....VROOM......eat my dust, Perdana V6 S**k*r

i've got myself 2.0inch piping+long bullet(kind of twisting shape)<-recommended by shop owner, he said can jimat minyak<<

my setup for my humble 6A10 is = 2.0inch piping+long bullet(twistin type)+Perdana V6 twin muffler

feedback:engine feels very responsive when revved up....(mechanic told last time da air from da engine choked 2 come out of the 1.5wira exhaust setting)
haha......now, juz press da pedal a lil bit aso, da rpm climbs up
laz time, like u feel a lag.....

.....VROOM..VROOM....VROOM......eat my dust, Perdana V6 S**k*r

This post has been edited by motherker: Apr 12 2006, 08:54 PM

triple post...

I'm going to get a middle box soon. How much did the person charge you?

sorry mod, 4 the triple post, my comp jammed, u can delete it off....
da middle box im not sure, but da whole set up (2.0 inch piping+middle box<long n twisting type<<+perdana V6 twin muffler+RM590(inc.installation)

PS: i checked the other shop on da same row, he charged RM500
but i didn do bcoz da man did not look educated, he said need 2
modify da muffler laa bcoz wira small laa ...bla...bla...bla.....
da shop owner which quoted RM590 explained properly and all laa...
fortunately, da shop owner was my dad's fren's son....haha.....so
got it all done at RM550
very satisfied vf da installation+performance........

my middle box was the most expensive 1....da owner recommended...
i think abt RM200 like dat....(mayb less...dunno laa...hahaa)

If u wan, den i can go vf u 2 da shop.....get discount maa...

Is That Correct?

Ur Car Only Can Open Pod Or Drop In Filter?

Either One? Izzt?

What r u waiting for motherker...faster go dyno

sure, after tuning...haha.......

4-2-1 vs 4-1 header

some article

Very useful link although too techie to be understand by some people....

Link added to the 1st page

how about removing the cat? any noticeable improvement? any recomended piping diameter based on cc? like 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0?

The cat is the most restrictive part in the exhaust system. There will be some minor significant improvement by removing it.

but after removing it, what are the downsides to it? increased FC and noise?

it depends

if you have O2 sensor on/after the cat, probably you'll end up with slightly richer air/fuel ratio.

as for noise, as far as i could remember it doesn't affect the exhaust noise at all.

Some personal experience I want to share.

For those using DOHC VTEC B16 or any other twin cam engines (N/A), manual (assuming you havent done any heavy mods to the engine).

If you want low rpm to mid power (probably balanced power, vtec engagement can also be felt) and no noisy exhaust set up, try using 2 inches (inlet should be around 1.91-1.95 inches) exhaust pipe. You can use the cat converter or not is up to you but I recommend using it to protect the environment.

Use a center bullet (get those better ones like stainless steel). After that, use a S-Flow muffler. For the S-flow muffler any brand can be used even if it's cap ayam. Just find the one with the right inlet.
I have done this setup and all I can say is it produces only bassy sound when revved. During idle, silent and very little bass.

Perfomance wise, I get good pickup at lower rpm to mid rpm. Even during higher rpm there is no lost in power. Overall it's a balance setup for me.

This is just my personal experience and I just hope those using this setup will be happy like I did.

Good article talk about Exhaust Theory and Design

link added to the list

i must say after reading thru all the six pages ..my knowledge on extractor to muffler going good.....
be logging to this forum ... i did a basic mod on my exhuast
i change to 4-1 . remove the cat , change bullet , 2'' piping n pro 1 racing muffler as the shop owner say it for vios only....
my target is to get low end n top speed and good FC...am i doing the right mod....

you aiming for low end, isn't it 4-2-1 being better??
4-2-1 even gives good top speed