In an effort to improve quality further, please state battery brand that has lasted 4 years or more as a bench mark.

To start the ball rolling

Brand : Century
Type : non maintenance free

Bosch maintenance free

2+ years

Go maintenance free

Around 2 years

FOMOCO

MF battery from Ford.

This post has been edited by dares: Jan 7 2019, 09:00 PM

1. century hybrid ns70l (non mf) present...... bought b4 gst
2. yokohama flattop ns70 (non mf) early 2000s
3. bosch ns60 (non mf) present...... bought b4 gst

i suspect the bosch is a rebadged panasonic as they have the same status indicator

This thread doesn't serve alot of purpose

Some ppl don't drive much
Some don't drive much at night
Some are arsehole on road nv put signal when turn or change lane which is majority of shit drivers
Nv open lights at night
Some are too kind and patient nv high beam ppl who are at fault or hazard to others or turtle on fast lane

Last but not least there's dashcam and other accessories
I. E
Led saving lights

This post has been edited by Jedi: Jan 7 2019, 09:33 PM

Century can last 4 years meh?? Are you a Century promoter?? 😂 Mine just less than 2.5 years and imho it's not a good battery. The only battery that lasted >4yrs for me was over 15 years ago and the brand no longer exists (I also forget already too). Nowadays all my batteries only lasted 2+years.

This has no purpose. 4 years plus are either old cars with no electronics or cars that batteries are located at the rear & far from heat. Stock battery Nissan Almera, E spec GS Yuasa (start stop type) 3yrs.

Nope not a promoter. Since my father-in-law trusted Century, I just followed on that's all. The previous Century lasted to just 4 years, which surprised the distributor as well. Now on another Century and hopefully it will lasts for another 4 years too.

Speedys3210 reply with Century on Post # 4 should be more or less 4 years, I suspect.

Only after buying a new Century battery, I've read somewhere on this forum that Amaron lasts a cool 7 years. Curious today I walked into Amaron's dealers and the dealer said this after hearing what I've said about 7 years lifespan, "Its hard to say, some couple of months, some its 1-2 years, some its couple of years. Depends on luck."

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 7 2019, 10:04 PM

You could be right on the rebadging thing. Outsourcing among certain production practices is not uncommon, instead of creating wastages if other has achieved higher efficiency.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 7 2019, 10:12 PM

What cars are you using? Honestly my first Century was the Marathoner and I'm disappointed with it and will never buy it again. It lasted over 2 years for my car with countless jump starts within that duration coz I didn't use the car for 5-7 days. Now I'm trying the Century Ultramax which is supposed to be their best model and it is better but not by much. It also already need to be jump started a few times, not yet 1.5 yrs though.

I also often hear recommendations for Amaron but never hear that they can last 7 years! Maybe next change I will try this brand but I will not try Century anymore, not even their Ultramax.

Varta, come with the car. 5.5 years 110k km still running strong.

Stock Vios 2016 with dashcam+USB 5V 2.1A
Exactly 2 years, 50k KM
Battery didn't die, but SA suggest to replace. I can feel the difference for Start/Stop engine after change battery.

Now it's habit for me to press Start/Stop button 2 times, before pressing brake pedal & Start.

Varta stock 7yrs..plus

What car?

Most of the long lasting battery cases always found on manual transmission & low usage vehicles

My Century unit lasted up to 5 years on my son Persona - that time mileage already 100K

2011 passat cc 2.0

Battery technology has taken a huge leap recently. Many of you experienced batt life of less than 2 years. Well there are new & better batts in the market now. It all how much you want to pay.

New batts are EFB & AGM

AGM is the best and could cost $2k+. These could last 7years or more!

With heat insulation and regular charging or not ?

I know batteries in BMW or Merc can last long on models with battery located at the boot which is far from engine heat, something like 7-8 years max.

I recently wrapped all of my cars' batteries, and do regular charging with my Bosch C7, hopefully it can last long.

On my previous Audi A6, the battery lasted the full 5 years when I sold it off in August, state of health ("SOH") rated at 70% when I sold it. Still being used by the new owner.

no, i didnt insulate, everything is kept stock on the car...but its good to have insulation as you mentioned, especially our hot weather here, which kills battery life faster.

From my personal experience battery sold here are just lower in quality and spec, hence in average local battery last only about 2 years.

When i use to live in US, most of the batteries came with 3-5 years warranty, they hardly die

Oh... contis! Usually, they are last very long as their battery is located at the boot area and not engine bay.

My beemer is now 6 years and still going strong! (I hope! haha)

none of my batteries lasted more than 2 years.. lol..

Ram car , 3 years original preve battery !
Century sucks !

There was a time Century batteries used to last just until the warranty was over, until I found this forum. Sifting through countless posts it's soon apparent that proper care & maintenance is required to maintain the state of health over a longer duration.

Since putting things into practice I've managed to prolong the Century battery to the 4 year mark compared to all previous Century batteries in the past.

The idea of this thread is to collect data to identify batteries that generally last more than 4 years, however having said that I still would want to change battery once it reaches the 4 year mark due to various other reasons.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 8 2019, 12:50 PM

Thank you very much for such invaluable information. Never knew that battery had made such leap in technology. Will keep an eye out for EFB & AGM batteries. 👍🏻

Hi VeeJay,

The US 3-5 years Warranty, does that apply to states like Hawaii & southern Florida too ?

i guess one of the contributing of my short battery life is the need to switch on the lights when traveling to work and home as well as start-stop traffic.

Since you wrote about Start-Stop, does this feature the Start-Stop button reduces the battery lifespan too ?

Sorry mate no idea on Hawaii but any state, its pretty much the same since the carrier and the brand is the same, hence the warranty even oem brand like AAA (similar to our AAM) also has 6 years of warranty


I grew up as mandatory headlights, hence, i had always turned my lights during my drive. During drive, the supply comes from alternator and not the battery. battery comes to play during startup and when idle for a long time.

i tot most car battery can last is around 2 years

That's what I thought too until I showed 2 individuals the Century battery that lasted for 4 years. That's what they would like us to think, but we really have to think out of the box !

yokohama,century,bosch all lasted 2 or less than 2 years in my experience,there's once a capalang brand that lasted me 4 years+ in my kelisa

anyone using AMARON? heard the battery lasted for 4 yrs +

I've heard that Amaron lasts for a solid 7 years. Yeah I going to try Amaron out on my next purchase, once my newly purchase Century expires in 4 years time or any other Century that expires.

How do you prolong your battery life. Mind to share your battery maintenance procedure ? Tq

That's a very good question that needs a well thought & laid out answer. Will reply you again once I've straightened out my thoughts.

Warning ⚠️ I am no battery expert but since I've managed to hit the 4 year mark, now I want to try hitting the 7 year mark for battery lifespan. If that possible, I could increase the replacement battery period from 3 years to 5 years before the battery dies out.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 10 2019, 09:56 AM

Battery FAQ

TQ 'exeon' for Battery FAQ.

Never heard of vibration being an issue before but I reckon it should be with the hazardous chemical inside. A real big problem.

Haha I gained knowledge too after reading this.

Since you are the few, that can achieve longer battery life of >4 years, Pls do share your maintenance. Thanks

Thanks for sharing.
What constitute short distance? 10km, 20km, 30km ?
Mostly i'm driving around 20+km to and back 20+km . Does it consider short distance ?
Battery life app 15-18 months need to change. 🤔
In Malaysia, the weather can consider hot but not as hot as some other countries. Where as the battery life are much longer life span.

I think its better to break up the answer into parts and prioritize them in a logical sequence, instead of cramping everything into 1 answer.

NO # 1 SELECT BEST WARRANTY TO BEGIN WITH

Like everything else, start with the best quality you can afford similar to genetics. A battery that offered with a good warranty means the manufacturer stands by the product it makes and vice verse.

My benchmark is that battery warranties that don't even pass 18 months warranty is not considered, just my elimination technique of weeding out low quality stuffs.

Today a friend of mine battery wouldn't fire up and it's only 5 months old !!! Warranty was for 1 year. I could write about further crazier testimonies on this but it only solidifies the point on beginning with a good quality battery.

Note : I've used only Century for so long that I don't even remember if I had used other models before. So my experience will be exclusively on 1 particular brand only albeit a limited one.

Successes are 1 Century died after touching the 4 year mark. Another Century just passed a 3 year mark. Previous attempts or should I say no attempts, all died after the warranty period. The manufacturer's are very smart people.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 10 2019, 07:39 PM

Battery very sensitive to heat. If battery is located inside the front bonnet, it won't last long. Max also 2 years if lucky.

If located underneath the rear seats or rear boot, easily 4-5 years.

Very true indeed, that's why all my earlier batteries died within the 2 year mark because of the heat. The real question is how do we go about circumventing this issue since my batteries are located in the engine bay. 😂

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 10 2019, 07:48 PM

Ori hilux yuasa battery , lasted 4 year plus..

I bet the model which you are using is 95D31L (17 plates per cell) not the regular N70ZL (75D31L) which is 15 plates per cell.

Relocate to rear boot. Can DIY. Parts sold on Lozada.

U need a battery post and some welding cables. Also a battery box with ventilation.

Partially true but not absolute. As I mentioned previously, mine had passed 7yrs and still running well. If thats the case it would have died earlier.

While in US, most of my car easily passed 5-6yrs, yeah its cold country but engine heat is is engine heat, especially from mid spring till mid fall, the weather do get hot and at times hotter than MY.

To me, the majority of the battery here just lack the quality, hence many dare not give more than 18months warranty.

TQ for the tip. Now I know where the guy got it from. 🤣

Just that I am not good with DIY and no wireman hence am extremely cautious about adding wires into a vehicle because faulty wires, unapproved wires etc could easily catch fire. This is way way above me already. So I had to work around this limitation.

NO # 2 : MODERATE TEMPERATURE FOR MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE

It's common knowledge that extreme temperatures reduces the lifespan of lead acid batteries, I won't go into details about chemical reactions etc but I will state what I had done under existing circumstances (battery in the engine bay) being in a tropical country.

Cars that have their battery located in places other than the engine bay, the battery seems to be able to hold out longer than those in the engine Bay Area. Besides my father-in-law very old Toyota Corona with exceptionally large bonnet allows maximum Ventilation within a confined space as compared to modern smaller cars.

NOTE : Hence I strongly believe & suspect the key word is PROLONGED EXPOSURE TO EXTREME TEMPERATURES which actually reduces its lifespan.

A) INSULATE THE BATTERY - Having an insulator in place helps cut the heat being radiated to the battery drastically.

B) OPEN UP THE BONNET FOR MAXIMUM AERATION & HEAT DISSIPATION - After most of my drives where permissible, I will open up my bonnet even to the Service Center for the engine bay to cool faster. The Service Advisor was like "What's wrong with your car ? Why the bonnet open up ?" I just smiled and replied "Nothing just admiring the engine." 😆

C) DURING DRIVING THE BONNET IS UNLOCK BUT LATCHED POSITON - I been reminded so many times by countless good motorists but I believe with the speed I am going the bonnet has NOT flung open wide. Certified not an F1 driver. This is to allow better air flow. However I have been thinking about another alternative to this that is air intake manifold (is that the proper term) like those American muscle cars to force feed air into the engine Bay Area that all. Since my cars ain't got no muscle, those manifold really looks out of place.

D) PARK IN A SHADED AREA - This is just to cut heat buildup inside the engine bay. 3 of my cars has shaded car park but unfortunately for 1 car, hence that Century ain't goin last as the other 3 that's in the shade.

All these will sound crazy to the unintiated but in my quest I really have to test out these crazy ideas and the strange thing is that it has worked for me. It not one size fit all solution, cause I cannot expect those staying in apartments to sit beside their car just to cool down before going home.

We are all faced with different sets of limitation just that we have to constantly figure out & try out until we find what works.

Although the suggestion to locate the battery to other parts in the car beside the engine bay is a good one especially for DIY forummers, this got me thinking some other related problems since I am on non-MF Batteries. If it's located inside the cabin, the gases produce is highly flammable right ? Even if it's moved to the boot, vapors could still travel into the cabin area right ? Manufactures that have batteries located elsewhere must have found a solution to this. I am just a regular bloke with 0 knowledge on batteries or cars, shifting battery is definately a good idea but it's just way above me abt this moment. Need to build up on my Kung-fu skills before I even dare to accept this challenge.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 11 2019, 12:15 PM

True, that goes to any battery, extreme heat is a battery killer!

Good advise. Thanks

That's just on ventilation alone. Will post another on maintenance.

NO # 3 : MAINTENANCE, MAINTENANCE & MORE MAINTENANCE.

Crazy as it sounds, who on earth maintains their car batteries but this is often overlook even by me, before but not anymore, not anymore.

NOTE : non-maintenance free Century battery used.

A) KEEP WATER 💦 LEVELS UP - I am guilty as charged and since I know better now, hopefully I won't screw up in the future again.

B) INSPECT & CLEAN POSTS & TERMINALS - Any gunk that's forming at the contact points must be cleaned off. Wire brush or sand down the posts & terminals for a completely clean contact. This is so important.

B) REMOVE & WASH DOWN THE BATTERY - Simple act of cleaning the battery removes any possibility small leakages or discharges from the battery itself. Thereafter wipe it down with a dry cloth and leave to completely air dry before reinstalling back firmly into its position.

C) BUY & INSTALL BATTERY CAP COVER - To prevent the hazardous material from damaging the underneath of your metal bonnet.

D) FINALLY BUY BATTERY CHARGER (I don't have one yet as now I am learning about them to find out which is most suitable) - Keeping the battery in fully charged condition constantly seems to me is the only way in prolonging the lifespan of the batteries to 7-8 year mark at least that what's written in their advertisement.

It's sure a step up for me if I can extend the battery lifespan from 4 years to 6,7 or 8 years with the soon to be purchased charger.

WARNING ⚠️ Safety precautions must be adhered too at all times like goggles & gloves. Remember no rings & necklaces or chain etc.

P/S : Finally modern car already has to much electronics that's zapping the life out of the battery already and if I want to prolong its lifespan I shouldn't be adding anymore strain or burden other than necessary e.g. locking the car manually and not engaging the alarm 🚨.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 12 2019, 01:13 AM

This is an important step in NO # 1.

Always check the manufacturer's website on the latest list of authorized distributors first, before proceeding to purchase your next battery from them.

That's it I guess and hopefully with those basic steps you too can improve your odds in increasing your battery lifespan.

I remember there was a question somewhere about how many cars I have. Well under my charge directly there are 5 cars Toyota, Kia, Proton & Peroduas. Indirectly there are Nissan, Subaru & more Peroduas & Protons.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 12 2019, 01:02 AM

Bro, this caught my eye your Yokohama battery has been in service since 2000 ? That's like 18 years ! The others are equally impressive too and they are non-MF too. 😳

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 12 2019, 01:14 AM

Oh I reassure you purpose it has. Depends very much how you want to look at things and what you want to achieve. I have a car that's laden with electronics that I hardly use and its non-MF battery just past 2 years old. Battery was tested on 29/12 still in great condition. Will see how that goes.

After sifting through many threads and taking notes, I've come to realize that the Marathoner has so many terrible reviews against 1 positive review only on this forum.

At this moment top on the list for the highest recommended battery brand on this forum has to go to Varta, second its Amaron. However there was only 1 testimony by Veejay, if I am not mistaken, that his Varta battery has lasted 7 years.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 12 2019, 08:16 AM

Bro, I've got a question about your Varta battery right ? Did you bring this back directly from the US when you returned ? Is it MF or non-MF ?

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 12 2019, 08:20 AM

Varta is a very famous old brand, kind of premium brand for battery so not surprised if it's very good coz the price is also probably one of the most expensive and not many people sell it also. Amaron is relatively much newer brand but in the last few years has been the most popular in terms of recommendations and also a bit on the premium side in terms of pricing even though maybe not as expensive as Varta.

TQVM 6UE5T for the info. Have been a faithful Century for far too long until I've ignored too much of the good stuffs around. I will definately be targeting either the Varta or the Amaron for my new car since it must be worth its weight in gold for many.

no it came with the car. passat cc is a CBU model hence the varta is a germany made

Sorry.... didnt type properly there...... i meant the battery was bought in early 200s and has served me for 4yrs.

A) Actually in real life, it is not only about watching if the electrolyte level dipping low, but also about NOT OVERFILLING. Most, if not all of my previous non-MF batts for the past 22yrs were killed by overfilling. All thanks to overzealous mechs. Since mid-2000s, i hv developed a habit of telling the mech (both boss and the 1 attending to my cars) to keep their hands off my spark plugs, coolant and batteries. These items are religiously checked by me periodically. Every time they touched it, there will be symptoms of weak battery, squashed washer (over torqued) and over diluted coolant.

B) Not neccessary...... I hv only experienced this on yesteryear batts. Have not seen this problem for the past 10-12yrs.

C) Not necessary...... have never done this, maybe only during that pre-CNY detailing job package

D) As per (B)

E) No need think, just buy if can afford....... Had a Ctek XS4003 ( now dead) and now using a Yokohama YB-10P (stopped production). Best investment ever. Don't buy those desulphator. Current logical choice is Bosch C3 (lower ampere) or C7 (higher ampere).

For the p/s part, that is the reason why I bought a charger. With it, you dont have to skimp on security just to save charge. Most user without the charger will not understand the advantage of having 1 until they hook up a charger to the battery. the charging indicators will give a glimpse of the condition of the battery. You will be surprised with the charge level on even a daily (80km) driven car battery.

Spot on bro.

Now thinking about your point on OVERFILLING issue if it's controlled & done properly probably would save out on B), C) & D) I guess.

I saw a YouTube video, the American technician had a real cool tool that's allows one to fill exactly without worrying about overfill or underfill. Too bad this great tool can't be found here, as it takes away lot of the guesswork out in filling up non-MF battery.

Thank you for your insights unto battery chargers. It's a new world for me. Recently made a trip to Ace Hardware MidValley to look for anything that's related to battery maintenance. Got myself a Digital Multimeter with a nice large LCD screen and had a wireman to test out the multimeter back home. The unit is fine but it's not reading the voltage on a new battery. Now have to plan for a next trip to KL again to exchange this for something else.

I hope I don't screwup with a CTEK charger purchase like what I did with the Multimeter purchase. Real headache 🤕 especially for me being new in this field. Now trying to learn up everything about these chargers, it's like groping about in the dark. 😂

For testing the battery, shouldn't I be getting a Battery Load Tester too ? Or with these charger, it's unnecessary to get another Battery Load Tester ?

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 12 2019, 02:56 PM

It's ok.

It did seem back then that you've broken the frontiers with battery maintenance and that would be my next goal after I've breached the 6/7 year mark with those battery charger. It was nice.

If you didn't let the cat out of the bag, I would probably end up all my life thinking how in the world 🌎 did you pull that off.

I think Bosch C7 has better value for money compared to Ctek. Reason being C7 has a higher ampere rating; significantly faster at bulk charging stage than lower rated chargers. Don't have to be overly obsessed with brands. Somemore Bosch has presence locally, support should be easier.

I don't think you need to have a load tester, quite an overkill for end-user unless one is very anal or has OCD. After operating the charger and getting to know the charging pattern, you will learn to "predict" the health status of the battery, like a load tester; things like charging time for bulk and absorption stage.

Good luck.

Thank you for your kind advise Speedy3210. Will keep Bosch in view now. Customer Support is very important without it, it's like those new fighter jets that can fly no longer. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 13 2019, 09:12 PM

Back to topic, I will regularly update the following from time to time that's based on specific criteria just to observe batteries performance. Nevertheless, brands that are not listed, either has not been reviewed or just don't make the cut or is no longer in the market e.g. Yokohama.

Battery Brand (Seal of approval)
1. Varta (5 votes)
2. Century (4 votes)

It's fascinating reading between the lines, it appears that there were Battery Wars going behind the scenes among the battery players. Whatever it is, I trust the battery war will not stop but hope that players in the industry places importance on improvement & quality in their products which will eventually set them apart as a Trusted Brand and not like some fly by night operator out for a quick buck.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 13 2019, 05:00 PM

Just change my cx5(non start stop) with a varta sliver efb . I really feel the difference engine start up much quicker and the battery recovers fast. Because if you let go of the brakes when the car is starting , the car just stops starting... and when you start again with the stock battery the car sounds like its struggling but with my new varta a big wow la really got different. Going to change my h city battery soon to varta

Currently having a century in my city about 1.6 years, i will charge all my car battery at least once a week with bosch c7 . Did this to my stock cx5 battery i think the brand is call delco? Lasted about 2.6 years

This post has been edited by hockwei123456: Jan 13 2019, 05:22 PM

Yes you are correct indeed Varta is truly an established brand after some digging. The name Varta literally means "Made in Germany 🇩🇪 " in the German language. Now I just have to figure out how to get them out from Germany, once I received final confirmation from a Switzerlander on Varta. I cannot miss this up! 🤣

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 13 2019, 08:55 PM

Since this is a discussion on battery longevity, I think you can channel you energy to another aspect of battery, instead of brands. The aspect I wish to highlight is the battery plate material/composition. Try reading the link below.

http://www.necon.co.za/batttech.php?w=1368&h=912#openModal

Back to your battery choice. I would advice that you measure your car alternator's voltage when it is HOT, say after 30mins of driving. Easier to do this by having those plug-in voltmeter at the lighter port. Match the output voltage with the type of battery that has closest required charging voltage.

The problem with battery market nowadays is companies market their products according to price point, not suitability. Calsium batts are really good at CCA, hence the experience shared by many in here. Silver batts too. But the question is, is your car's charging system built to support that kind of batteries? Again this will explain a lot of the experience shared by users here; short battery life, due to the charging system can't charge other, unexpected type of batteries that the car manufacturer didn't expect its users to use.

For this sole reason, I continued to use non-MF battery in my cars. As I have measured and monitored alternators output of my cars, and they tend to stay at lead-antimony level when fully warmed up.

Hope this info helps in your search for longlife battery.

I just visited a shop in Segambut KL where they sell all arranges of batteries etc.

They informed me that Varta can also be made in Korea in particularly the blue series. Silver series are made in Europe.

No one seems to talk about Amaron? I have been using it in my other car and I just changed to Amaron in daily driver. So far so good with Amaron.

That's because Amaron, I understand just burst into the picture and now that it's being tested by many, in time to come the reviews will come to.

I am monitoring an Amaron too and it's been like 9 months only. So like you've said, "So far so good with Amaron." I hope Amaron lives up to its tagline.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 14 2019, 04:15 PM

My Amaron is 15 months already...so far so good.

Just always can see some water overflow out surrounding the top sticker. How about yours?

Korean brand Rocket .. almost 3 years then kena curi. that day only i realize some proton and perodua model can pop up bonnet via the access to the cable around tyre ..

Thank you for that insightful information Speedy3210. Although I don't understand much of what written but sleeping over it was the best. Was thinking about it all night even in my dreams.

You've hit the nail on the head with marketing from the price viewpoint and not suitability. This wasn't an issue earlier on until the influx of substandard batteries from unknown parts of the world.

I will always wonder if the Marathoner was created in response to that influx. I've never used the Marathoner before but obviously the damage been done.

With the current market perception that batteries don't last more than 1 year or batteries lives to just after its warranty you period, I've thought I've found the Battery's Holy Grail with 4 years lifespan, little did I know you guys are already light years ahead of me !

The light at the end of the tunnel just got a lot dimmer for me but the quest for extending battery lifespan must continue. Mankind must always be creative in pushing things to the extreme limits in search of more sustainable solutions in this world of limited resources.

As inept as I maybe but I find myself looking forward to your post more & more. 😂

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 14 2019, 04:41 PM

Not yet, that Amaron unit has not pancut just yet.

I don't think the sign of overflowing water is a good thing, as that disrupts the chemical composition inside overtime rendering that unit being unstable. If it's overflowing of milk & honey 🍯 yes but since it's water 💦 pouring out of the Amaron, caveat emptor, I think.

If I was in your shoe, I will find ways to push back in all that water 💦 that's flowing out OR it's going to the Medic in no time.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 14 2019, 05:00 PM

My amaron just over warranty. Now started to show weak.

That's really not good. By the way, how long was the warranty, therain01 ?

Not much actually, just can see especially morning.

I bring back to the shop, they say is fine, test the battery all good.

Under warranty so didn't plan to take off the sticker.

Now become like little white powder. (photo taken last year)


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I remember seller told me 12 months. Bought it around rm300 for a 55D23L. No proof of purchase anyway.

That is not good if the acid touch your car body.

BTW, white powder over terminal is also not a good sign. Poor contact, under charge, overcharge all result to white power.

Not on terminal, is on the water stain part. I just notice recently. As I use to wipe off the water, but after sometimes, lazy to border, then only notice become white powder.

So what should i do? can claim warranty?

Well I think you should try to claim but I doubt seller would honor it. I used to have a battery which does leak and I never insist on replacement. In the end the acid overflow to the extend that it rust the car body and gearbox.

Battery should be water tight. Extra pressure or gas should escape from vent holes only.

My is 16 months, depends on model.

So serious? Leak out until drop to body part! Means a lot of water?
My one not that bad actually, is just a bit. Dry off when drive or hot sun. The dry part is just stain & some dust, not white powder.

I try snap photo to show tomorrow.

Whoa back up there a bit men, Dannyw & Therain01.

Dannyw, yours 16 months under warranty &
Therain, your warranty is for 12 months said the reseller without any proof of documentation.

Was it Amaron that practices uniform warranty period for all its batteries or different warrant periods for different battery models ?

Irregardless of the situation Dannyw, if I were you I would suit up and remove that battery for some serious cleaning on the external body only and thereafter wipe down & let it air dry. Clean off the terminals & post too.

Plus inspect immediately the areas around the bottom of the battery holder for signs of damages. Remove the holder if possible.

Dirty surfaces leads to surface discharge which will slowly kill off your battery. Maintaining the cleanliness of battery is important unless you wish to keep changing batteries before or immediately after each warranty period.

Another thing that I've learnt in life is to never believe wholeheartedly everything the seller says. I am better off checking everything that I am told.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 14 2019, 08:51 PM

No, Amaron has different warranty duration for different models.

Thank you so much 6UE5T for clearing that up. Then, I must have errorneously mixed up with the warranties of other brands. That's the problem of reading too much.

Today photo. No more leak, but the from the sticker surrounding can tell it leak before.

Battery performance still good, maybe will arrange a visit to the shop see what the seller say.


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At the moment the unit may still be good, it may not look that dirty to you or any of us but dirty conditions on the unit causes it to deteriorate overtime.

If you intent on prolonging its lifespan then keeping it clean is a must. However if you are not particular and don't mind about replacing with a new battery after it's warranty period, then it's all right too.

Seriously you may want to check what's cooking under the battery holder & probably clean that out too, if you intend on keeping the vehicle, otherwise bless the new owner.

I presume that you should know what to do with cleaning the battery out and you have the proper gear & stuffs to accomplish the job. Safety is always the highest priority.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jan 15 2019, 10:27 AM

Hi Dannyw, may I ask how did you attached the Thumbnail picture into your post ? Pretty cool.

After obtaining the owner's permission, I intend to clean out the owner's Amaron unit and post the before & after pictures.