Hi battery sifu, can repost ur advice ? I find ur post for many pages still can’t found it T_T

Bro, I think its best you ask forummer ter001, where did he find my earlier postings. Look at post #444 on this thread.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Nov 3 2019, 01:09 PM

you also have to include the price of the battery water too. Putting time aside, include the cost of materials needed for the battery like to fill up/replace fluids and if possible to replace the terminals.

If you run the miles, the benefit is less heat soak.

Another crucial factor to look into was the number of times the engine was started. The greatest load point of the battery anytime.

Actually, quite hard to really find the best way of prolonging battery other than not undersizing the battery used and making sure the alternator is working well.

Battery liquid is cheap la....2 bucks can get you a litre bottle of it....even cheaper if wholesale.

Whoa I never thought about that. LOL

Yes you are correct that would give a more true and fair view of the costs involved. You got a good eye for detail.

that actually not so much the case. Unless the terminals used have less metal the whole idea is for the battery to be chargeable thousands of times.
The number of times you start/stop the car isnt that much of an issue, its a question of how much time the battery is spent not fully charged. Lead acids like being charged, hate being used like a regular battery. Starting the car isnt the hardest drain on the battery but rather not being fully charged is. When you start the car, the high amps temporarily disrupt the electrolyte and terminals, making the battery appear weaker so it needs longer to properly recharge as it would temporarily appear to have less capacity.

Its not much on how much you start/stop the car, but how much time the battery is further away from full charge. If you remember in the past, cars had much better battery life, because they didnt have any computers in the past so the battery never got drained. You would run into a mechanical issue much more often than a battery issue but nowadays with cars always using power, this is the biggest factor. You cant exactly disconnect the battery everytime and heat isnt the main factor in the lifespan, so thats why battery chargers do extend the life of the battery. A battery charger should last 20 years so even one under rm 400 will save you a significant amount of money (though you would be using power from the wall).

Its sad that we arent seeing supercap + battery commercially as this would mean 5-10 year lifespan for car batteries, but the recycling industry is reliant on this whole cycle of replacing batteries to survive.

to be precise, everytime you start the car, it encourages sulphation to appear due to the high amps making it unbalanced where the electrolyte around the terminals seem to have a lot less charge, hence the point about short trips is that it could take an hour or 2 every time to properly charge the battery as its not just about recharging the battery but to get rid of the sulphation.

This post has been edited by System Error Message: Nov 4 2019, 09:07 PM

Bro., I dont understand what you meant by less heat soak, please clarify ? Thanks.

Mine lasted 4 years and it costs about RM 2.4K a unit.

Which battery model is this?

Not sure! Three pointed star one!

well then, you should change your car too, even if you have the money it would be better spent elsewhere like investing into the local economy than giving it willingly to the germans.

heat stuck in a badly ventilated area....

the situation would be more like you're driving you're car at slow speed/traffic jam, the heat will stuck in the engine bay longer without being ventilated out as when the car is moving at a reasonable speed.

mazda had the supercap concept not too long ago, their ieloop. But then they removed it. And even those models with ieloop supercapacitor, there is still the normal lead acid battery. So it is likely that supercaps can't retain much capacity.

You battery concept may be even heavier/bulkier, and not exactly sure how it will withstand in constant heat and vibration. Lead acid battery has been dominant for practical reason, not some cartel like dealings between lead acid battery manufacturers. Car makes would actually want to rid lead acid batteries very much.

The next best is lithium batteries, much much lighter while being energy dense, just cost prohibitive. Charge retention also not bad, but the usual degradation issue like those on consumer devices, cathode just wears out gradually/eventually.

Sulphation is one thing, but can be reversed as long as not being sulphated beyond a certain point.

But the lead plates will also degrade, this is due to the ion exchanges when electrical charging/discharging. This one cannot be reversed. That's why batteries that last long usually have very high purity/density lead plates. High vibration also detrimental, as certain portion of the semi degraded lead plates will break apart from harsh road surfaces.

Actually using NIMH or lithium is a lot lighter. The reason why supercaps they remove supercaps was because it wasnt giving that much benefit not because of the capacity of the supercaps, but because they did not separate the drain circuit from the caps. However even with the caps it could increase the lifespan for lead acid from 2-3 years especially for people who do a lot of short trips but there has to be a resistor to avoid more than a certain amount of current from the battery to actually make the supercaps useful.

So i would say that its not really that the concept wasnt ineffective, the implementation wasnt. In order to use the supercaps you need a resistor to limit the maximum current that can come out from the battery, and you need a separate circuit for charging it (unless the max A allowed out is more than max A in). Lithium would work poorly in malaysia but not NIMH.

There is a cartel like relationship. If you are a point where batteries have a complete cycle from new to recycling to new again fully, then trying to introduce a new battery will be met with resistance.

Supercaps arent there to store power, they are there to provide the amps during high load situations, and the battery is required to provide long term charge. The whole idea of this was to combine something great at CCA, but sucks at storing power, with something that sucks at CCA but is great at storing power. You cant have both in a single charge store, you can either be good at giving amps but suck at storing it, or otherwise. NIMH may not have the capacity per price/weight as lithium does, but it last twice as long and not as vulnerable to the elements as lithium batteries are.

For cost and practicality reasons, lead acid will lead the way until the death of internal combustion engine.

Foremost, added complexity to the electrical and charging circuit. At least one more ECU to program. Also, becomes another added failure point. Capacitors degrade, but no one really knows how it will degrade in a driving condition. An added components also equal added weight, not something car makes wants in pursuit of efficiency.

And since now going hybrid, no need capacitors, the integrated starter just draw from the battery pack, all circuitry integrated. This is the main reason why no point moving forward with your concept other than DIY hobby project.

Lastly, i think the electrical hazard, capacitors can discharge very high loads in a short notice. For your application, if there happens to be an accident and the EMTs busted the capacitor circuit just to extract the victim, could kill the EMT/victim on the spot.

There will be no ECU for the charging circuit. Is there an ECU that handles your USB powerbank? There really isnt, only a circuit that controls the voltage in and out.

Capacitors can discharge but not under very high loads only when shorted. If you try to short a capacitor, you will just burn the wire and nothing else (tested). Having had experience in some EEE and from watching the projects that other do, they are fine so far and did test the safety. Infact this guy plays with electricity a lot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqng2MPClO8&t=179s even shocking himself on camera a lot. If you really want to know the danger of electricity, you can kill yourself with a simple 9V battery if it can go through your blood so theres nothing to worry about. Your desktop/laptop PSU has similar caps to supercaps that is even better at discharging. Your phone's PSU for charging from AC power has a bunch of capacitors. Only a DC to DC converter doesnt and just uses switching with any capacitance needed fulfilled by tiny solid caps.

one thing i would love to do is put a bunch of supercaps together and short it on bugs and roaches, maybe even mice. Even for lead acid batteries, shorting them together is already dangerous and if you do read guides about jump starting the car, you would see where you shouldnt short it, or any type of battery either not just caps because its bad for the battery and bad for you. Same for caps, unless you do something stupid like shorting the terminals with a battery, the dangers are just the same.

The lead acid box is watertight and sealed, even if its not a maintenance free battery, and you can do the same with DIY batteries using plastic casings and sealant for the terminals (you dont seal the case so you can open it later) but you can find cases that are watertight when closed.

High loads reduce the chance of a shock since the voltage will drop reducing the ability of electricity to pass through a resistor (you)

This post has been edited by System Error Message: Nov 6 2019, 02:28 PM

not only that, wet cells can cause the battery water which is acid to boil and leak all the acid into lower bottom of the battery.

my old car got it, whole battery area rusted heavily.
when fill up the battery water, then drive high RPM, can cause the water to overflow.

real CB i tell you once you see how bad the acid cause rust to your car body

Never ever fill up on battery water first and then drive.

Always drive first, then only fill up with battery water. 😊

Battery size affects the longevity also right?

My brother is using Century Marathoner on his Inspira manual and it's 3 years 9 months now and still good.

My City original FB battery died recently after 1 year 4 months. Funny thing is Honda SC checked the battery 4 months ago and said battery is 98%. Now I switched to Century Motolite. Shop did not have Marathoner. Don't know what's the difference.

I don't think it's fair to compare with conti cars as those batteries are huge and maybe 3 times the size of the one in City.

Other than size, I wonder if auto vs manual makes a difference?

It's not boiling, it's a process call electrolysis and the bubbles are actually hydrogen molecules.
Leakage can be due to fill up too much water, did not use distilled water, overcharging the battery and cap not close tightly.

Overcharging with high rpm is the alternator issue (or design). Properly design alternator will not exceed the charging voltage by 14.4V. Anything more than that then battery very fast kong. One car that I know of does this high voltage is Nissan Almera, puik!