Today photo. No more leak, but the from the sticker surrounding can tell it leak before.

Battery performance still good, maybe will arrange a visit to the shop see what the seller say.

I just double check my amoron battery it is amaron Pro. Saw a seller offering amaron Pro battery warranty from 18 months to 24 months.

Just wondering if anyone know is there anyway to get the battery warranty if I lost the proof of purchase? I saw a white sticker with some sort of serial number on top of the battery. Not sure if that can be used to trace the purchasing date.

LOW MAINTENANCE BATTERIES DON'T LEAK ???

I believe as customers when we purchase better built quality items, manufacturers with good practices will remain in the industry and weed out bad practices.

However when customers starts selecting for the cheapest on the shelf, it signals to the manufacturers that quality is NOT priority, hence the market will be flooded with all kinds of crap and manufacturers with good practices will find it hard to compete.

Just checking with you guys who have experience with car battery charger. Whether it is Bosch, CTEK, or Noco. Can share your thoughts & reviews regarding the products?

Just sold a DIN100 agm for Rm800

Camel DIN100L AGM - RM800 siap pasang, trade-in, battery registration

I wanted to get this as the price is really attractive. However, it's from China and it's still new in the market. Rather spend a bit more to be safe as the battery is the only thing that connects and supplies electricity to the vehicle.

In the end, I got myself a Banner - Running Bull.

have u tested the performance of camel battery? china product need QAQC only reliable.

yea only silver series made from germany.. blue and black dynamic are in korea right?? that why i read elsewhere... usually to reduce the cost competitiveness that why some of the good material are not being use so that it last just 2 years plus to match other major brand.

Does higher Cold Cranking Amp (CCA) even apply in malaysia as our weather wont even drop less than 20 degree even at night time.

I think my passat battery might need a replacement as well probably in 2020. Its been 8 years plus with Varta Ori from germany.

ya...but now the headache starts....cracking my head...which battery to go with. Maybe Varta silver AGM...but its gonna be costly...heard its around rm800-1km....havent really seriously start sourcing.

If any of you  have some info, do share ya 

btw, Roman Catholic had asked in earlier posting if i do anything different to maintain the battery...hmmm

The only thing different compared to my friends and relatives are...ensure the battery terminal is clean, apply grease at the terminal, check regularly the connector is tight.

I dont start my car immediately after inserting the key, will just leave it at ON position for 30sec or so before starting the car...its just due to electronics and no spike, which in turn "may" help the battery life as well.

I did get replace Amaron Hi-Life for my Sorento.....but I think i want CCA around 800...lets see what else I can survey on

This is the model i got for my sorento
https://shopee.com.my/AMARON-HI-LIFE-NS70L-...8188.1118889079

The only thing different compared to my friends and relatives are...ensure the battery terminal is clean, apply grease at the terminal, check regularly the connector is tight.

It is the time taken when the key is inserted to when the Airbags indicator lights go off, that seems to take forever. 😃

That is for cars with keys but what about those with Push-Start button, the is nothing to follow right for lights to go off ? Tekan terus butang Push-Start button tu.

Actually life shouldn't be that difficult. If hv doubt, then just go for price.

Like the instance below..... the difference in price is worth the risk of getting an "unknown" brand battery. if it konks out, just move on to another available choice. And keep in mind, these are silver alloy SMF batteries, a grade above the usual marathoner, amaron go etc..

https://shopee.com.my/SPECIAL-OFFER-INCI-AK...6527.2894207723

AGM and EFB should be 1 Yr

- get a more powerful battery than the OEM spec

Spot on. A battery must run the miles. I was doing Melaka-Muar-Melaka before I achieved 48 months.

you also have to include the price of the battery water too. Putting time aside, include the cost of materials needed for the battery like to fill up/replace fluids and if possible to replace the terminals.

Bro., I dont understand what you meant by less heat soak, please clarify ? Thanks.

that actually not so much the case. Unless the terminals used have less metal the whole idea is for the battery to be chargeable thousands of times.
The number of times you start/stop the car isnt that much of an issue, its a question of how much time the battery is spent not fully charged. Lead acids like being charged, hate being used like a regular battery. Starting the car isnt the hardest drain on the battery but rather not being fully charged is. When you start the car, the high amps temporarily disrupt the electrolyte and terminals, making the battery appear weaker so it needs longer to properly recharge as it would temporarily appear to have less capacity.

Its not much on how much you start/stop the car, but how much time the battery is further away from full charge. If you remember in the past, cars had much better battery life, because they didnt have any computers in the past so the battery never got drained. You would run into a mechanical issue much more often than a battery issue but nowadays with cars always using power, this is the biggest factor. You cant exactly disconnect the battery everytime and heat isnt the main factor in the lifespan, so thats why battery chargers do extend the life of the battery. A battery charger should last 20 years so even one under rm 400 will save you a significant amount of money (though you would be using power from the wall).

Its sad that we arent seeing supercap + battery commercially as this would mean 5-10 year lifespan for car batteries, but the recycling industry is reliant on this whole cycle of replacing batteries to survive.

to be precise, everytime you start the car, it encourages sulphation to appear due to the high amps making it unbalanced where the electrolyte around the terminals seem to have a lot less charge, hence the point about short trips is that it could take an hour or 2 every time to properly charge the battery as its not just about recharging the battery but to get rid of the sulphation.

Actually using NIMH or lithium is a lot lighter. The reason why supercaps they remove supercaps was because it wasnt giving that much benefit not because of the capacity of the supercaps, but because they did not separate the drain circuit from the caps. However even with the caps it could increase the lifespan for lead acid from 2-3 years especially for people who do a lot of short trips but there has to be a resistor to avoid more than a certain amount of current from the battery to actually make the supercaps useful.

So i would say that its not really that the concept wasnt ineffective, the implementation wasnt. In order to use the supercaps you need a resistor to limit the maximum current that can come out from the battery, and you need a separate circuit for charging it (unless the max A allowed out is more than max A in). Lithium would work poorly in malaysia but not NIMH.

There is a cartel like relationship. If you are a point where batteries have a complete cycle from new to recycling to new again fully, then trying to introduce a new battery will be met with resistance.

Supercaps arent there to store power, they are there to provide the amps during high load situations, and the battery is required to provide long term charge. The whole idea of this was to combine something great at CCA, but sucks at storing power, with something that sucks at CCA but is great at storing power. You cant have both in a single charge store, you can either be good at giving amps but suck at storing it, or otherwise. NIMH may not have the capacity per price/weight as lithium does, but it last twice as long and not as vulnerable to the elements as lithium batteries are.

Can anyone explain this ?

Before a battery replacement was done for a vehicle with a dead battery, it was jump-started and that managed to crank the vehicle up.

So with the vehicle turned on, the jumpers were removed following its proper sequence.

Now when the (-)ve terminal to the dead battery was removed from the dead battery's post, the vehicle immediately stalled.

Whatever ever happened to the saying that the alternator takes over and provides current to the vehicle and the battery plays no further part after that ?

P/S : After a new battery was installed, the starter snd alternator were tested and they were in excellent condition.

Hence when a car is is slow motion or idle, most of the time, battery is needed unless, you ramp the engine at more than 2000rpm to keep the car alive.

Bro., I had to remove the dead battery from the MPV, after successfully jump-starting it. The engine kick into life, I unplugged the jumper-cables, then as I begin to lift the (-)ve terminal from the dead battery post's, the engine died. Lesson well learnt and now I no longer use that method that I picked up from the Service Center. 😂