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> Battery brand that has lasted 4 years or more.

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speedy3210
post Jan 7 2019, 09:25 PM

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1. century hybrid ns70l (non mf) present...... bought b4 gst
2. yokohama flattop ns70 (non mf) early 2000s
3. bosch ns60 (non mf) present...... bought b4 gst

i suspect the bosch is a rebadged panasonic as they have the same status indicator
speedy3210
post Jan 12 2019, 12:55 PM

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QUOTE(Roman Catholic @ Jan 12 2019, 01:08 AM)
Bro, this caught my eye your Yokohama battery has been in service since 2000 ? That's like 18 years ! The others are equally impressive too and they are non-MF too. 😳
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Sorry.... didnt type properly there...... i meant the battery was bought in early 200s and has served me for 4yrs.
speedy3210
post Jan 12 2019, 01:33 PM

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QUOTE(Roman Catholic @ Jan 12 2019, 12:15 AM)
NO # 3 : MAINTENANCE, MAINTENANCE & MORE MAINTENANCE.

Crazy as it sounds, who on earth maintains their car batteries but this is often overlook even by me, before but not anymore, not anymore.

NOTE : non-maintenance free Century battery used.

A) KEEP WATER 💦 LEVELS UP - 

B) INSPECT & CLEAN POSTS & TERMINALS -

B) REMOVE & WASH DOWN THE BATTERY -

C) BUY & INSTALL BATTERY CAP COVER -


D) FINALLY BUY BATTERY CHARGER (I don't have one yet as now I am learning about them to find out which is most suitable) -

P/S : Finally modern car already has to much electronics that's zapping the life out of the battery already and if I want to prolong its lifespan I shouldn't be adding anymore strain or burden other than necessary e.g. locking the car manually and not engaging the alarm 🚨.
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A) Actually in real life, it is not only about watching if the electrolyte level dipping low, but also about NOT OVERFILLING. Most, if not all of my previous non-MF batts for the past 22yrs were killed by overfilling. All thanks to overzealous mechs. Since mid-2000s, i hv developed a habit of telling the mech (both boss and the 1 attending to my cars) to keep their hands off my spark plugs, coolant and batteries. These items are religiously checked by me periodically. Every time they touched it, there will be symptoms of weak battery, squashed washer (over torqued) and over diluted coolant.

B) Not neccessary...... I hv only experienced this on yesteryear batts. Have not seen this problem for the past 10-12yrs.

C) Not necessary...... have never done this, maybe only during that pre-CNY detailing job package

D) As per (B)

E) No need think, just buy if can afford....... Had a Ctek XS4003 ( now dead) and now using a Yokohama YB-10P (stopped production). Best investment ever. Don't buy those desulphator. Current logical choice is Bosch C3 (lower ampere) or C7 (higher ampere).

For the p/s part, that is the reason why I bought a charger. With it, you dont have to skimp on security just to save charge. Most user without the charger will not understand the advantage of having 1 until they hook up a charger to the battery. the charging indicators will give a glimpse of the condition of the battery. You will be surprised with the charge level on even a daily (80km) driven car battery.
speedy3210
post Jan 13 2019, 11:23 AM

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QUOTE(Roman Catholic @ Jan 12 2019, 02:47 PM)
Spot on bro.

Now thinking about your point on OVERFILLING issue if it's controlled & done properly probably would save out on B), C) & D) I guess.

I saw a YouTube video, the American technician had a real cool tool that's allows one to fill exactly without worrying about overfill or underfill. Too bad this great tool can't be found here, as it takes away lot of the guesswork out in filling up non-MF battery.

Thank you for your insights unto battery chargers. It's a new world for me. Recently made a trip to Ace Hardware MidValley to look for anything that's related to battery maintenance. Got myself a Digital Multimeter with a nice large LCD screen and had a wireman to test out the multimeter back home. The unit is fine but it's not reading the voltage on a new battery. Now have to plan for a next trip to KL again to exchange this for something else.

I hope I don't screwup with a CTEK charger purchase like what I did with the Multimeter purchase. Real headache 🤕 especially for me being new in this field. Now trying to learn up everything about these chargers, it's like groping about in the dark. 😂

For testing the battery, shouldn't I be getting a Battery Load Tester too ? Or with these charger, it's unnecessary to get another Battery Load Tester ?
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I think Bosch C7 has better value for money compared to Ctek. Reason being C7 has a higher ampere rating; significantly faster at bulk charging stage than lower rated chargers. Don't have to be overly obsessed with brands. Somemore Bosch has presence locally, support should be easier.

I don't think you need to have a load tester, quite an overkill for end-user unless one is very anal or has OCD. After operating the charger and getting to know the charging pattern, you will learn to "predict" the health status of the battery, like a load tester; things like charging time for bulk and absorption stage.

Good luck.


speedy3210
post Jan 13 2019, 09:21 PM

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QUOTE(Roman Catholic @ Jan 13 2019, 04:51 PM)
Back to topic, I will regularly update the following from time to time that's based on specific criteria just to observe batteries performance. Nevertheless, brands that are not listed, either has not been reviewed or just don't make the cut or is no longer in the market e.g. Yokohama.

Battery Brand (Seal of approval)
1. Varta (5 votes)
2. Century (4 votes)

It's fascinating reading between the lines, it appears that there were Battery Wars going behind the scenes among the battery players. Whatever it is, I trust the battery war will not stop but hope that players in the industry places importance on improvement & quality in their products which will eventually set them apart as a Trusted Brand and not like some fly by night operator out for a quick buck.
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Since this is a discussion on battery longevity, I think you can channel you energy to another aspect of battery, instead of brands. The aspect I wish to highlight is the battery plate material/composition. Try reading the link below.

http://www.necon.co.za/batttech.php?w=1368&h=912#openModal

Back to your battery choice. I would advice that you measure your car alternator's voltage when it is HOT, say after 30mins of driving. Easier to do this by having those plug-in voltmeter at the lighter port. Match the output voltage with the type of battery that has closest required charging voltage.

The problem with battery market nowadays is companies market their products according to price point, not suitability. Calsium batts are really good at CCA, hence the experience shared by many in here. Silver batts too. But the question is, is your car's charging system built to support that kind of batteries? Again this will explain a lot of the experience shared by users here; short battery life, due to the charging system can't charge other, unexpected type of batteries that the car manufacturer didn't expect its users to use.

For this sole reason, I continued to use non-MF battery in my cars. As I have measured and monitored alternators output of my cars, and they tend to stay at lead-antimony level when fully warmed up.

Hope this info helps in your search for longlife battery.
speedy3210
post Mar 2 2019, 10:27 AM

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maybe it wasn't the "fins" that retained water. Yokohama MF batteries design since that all black version, got this piece of black plastic cover where the warranty sticker is stuck on.

You can try to pry of that cover to see all 6 fill holes. but since that thing is still under warranty, better NOT.
speedy3210
post Apr 7 2019, 11:54 AM

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QUOTE(Roman Catholic @ Apr 7 2019, 07:37 AM)
During the recent school holidays, I had the opportunity to drive the latest Innova. Pretty amazed with it for a slow driver like me.

Curiosity got the better of me and I just had to find out what battery was in it. When I popped the hood, that battery had NO BRAMD NAME at all !!! This was the only sticker that was on it....

user posted image

Who knows for sure, maybe the battery manufacturer didn't want others to know who they were OR ....
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Maybe you want to measure the charging (output) voltage of the innova's alternator for your reference, since you have several toold to do so in your arsenal?

Both cold and hot reading.
speedy3210
post Apr 15 2019, 07:44 AM

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QUOTE(cempedaklife @ Apr 14 2019, 09:17 AM)
Flooded as in wet battery? My Panasonic MF is 28 months now. But macam dying soon. I don't have tester though. Just gut feeling and symptom.
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Some1 offered battery charger rental here in Automotive section; can't remember if it was in this thread or another. rent the charger (just for testing purpose)and just try to recharge this panasonic battery of yours in recond or agm mode and most probably it can be revived to its former glory.

the problem with most users is, they never bothered to read up on battery tech and just buy whatever shop recommends or marketing hype, i.e silver la calcium la will be da best of da best. fact is these silver-ca or ca-ca batteries require higher voltage alternators to fully charge. something your run-of-da-mill jap or local car alternator never designed for. agm/recond mode charging of newer smart chargers may bridge this mismatch.

would recommend you to take out the battery from your car to charge in agm/recond mode, coz i am not sure whether your electronics can take the 14.7v for a few hours during charging or not.

i revived my bosch sm mega power 38b24 (non-mf), which i suspect is a rebranded panasonic using this method. it is working like new again. now 4.5yrs old.
speedy3210
post Oct 14 2019, 09:51 PM

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QUOTE(edisoner90 @ Oct 14 2019, 02:42 PM)
Is that even possible for Century Marathoner battery to last until 27 months? as my battery now is at 25 months.. it sometime show sign of hard to start in the morning... not always but like 3-4 times in a month.

Any brand recommendation for honda city 2013 battery type  NS40ZL??

currently read that varta black premium NS40ZL (B19/B20) Group

34B19L - 34 Ah, 272 CCA (RM190)
42B20L - 38 Ah, 340 CCA (RM210)

varta black premium is not so good?? how about amaron GO?

any recommendation car center that provide good price?

i found is https://www.vinbattery.com/

he quote me rm 190 for amaron GO
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Camel 18months warranty

Doesn't this make more sense? cheaper but longer warranty and higher specs.
speedy3210
post Oct 15 2019, 11:33 AM

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QUOTE(edisoner90 @ Oct 15 2019, 09:38 AM)
have u tested the performance of camel battery? china product need QAQC only reliable.
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Yes, using it in my father's saga blm. In the guise of GMB 55b20L, yes oem-ed with clear camel logo on cover. Bought in sep 2016. Still cranks strongly till date.
speedy3210
post Oct 16 2019, 10:23 PM

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Actually life shouldn't be that difficult. If hv doubt, then just go for price.

Like the instance below..... the difference in price is worth the risk of getting an "unknown" brand battery. if it konks out, just move on to another available choice. And keep in mind, these are silver alloy SMF batteries, a grade above the usual marathoner, amaron go etc..

https://shopee.com.my/SPECIAL-OFFER-INCI-AK...6527.2894207723
speedy3210
post Oct 18 2019, 11:29 AM

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QUOTE(filage @ Oct 18 2019, 10:39 AM)
Do old carburettor cars have better lasting battery than modern EFI cars?
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Not necessarily longer lasting as old car has its own set of problem

Poor alternator output
Bad ground
Parasitic/phantom load due to old wires
Etc etc

But if everything is in good shape, carb car should hv less electrical load than an EFI car, thus longer alternator n battery life.... barring manufacturing defects on batt n alternator
speedy3210
post Dec 3 2019, 06:06 PM

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QUOTE(Roman Catholic @ Dec 3 2019, 02:30 PM)
Thats really odd. My neighbour's Wira 1.5 last production model, the NS70 battery couldn't fit as the metal clamp at the top was too small or short. The base of the battery holder does match the NS70 battery but not the metal clamp. Perhaps someone else swapped out his metal clamp without him knowing it.

I do not know if the NS70 is supposed not to used, but it is best to check with Proton over this whether the corresponding alternator is up for the job.

Furthermore I do know about the practices of other battery manufacturers but Century is pretty strict, with regard to its warranty example using battery size that is not recommended according to specifications.
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Wira 1.6/1.8 export spec came with NS70 tray and clamps as standard. My 1st battery for this car was a Sime (yes, dun ask why) NS70.

In fact if you search lazada/shopee/lelong etc., you can find NS70 battery tray for Wira/Satria/Putra. And battery holders/clamps too.
speedy3210
post Feb 21 2020, 10:00 AM

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Most people would think alarm or entertainment system to be the culprit behind high electrical load. But in reality these things sit rather low on the scale of electrical load.

Try comparing the fuse values at the fuse box to get an idea on which system(s) use electric power most. If I were to hazard a guess, it will be the a/c and lights circuits.
speedy3210
post Apr 1 2020, 11:12 AM

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QUOTE(tctham @ Mar 31 2020, 09:57 PM)
Bateriku no offer hi-life for my car o.

Manual says my car need 46B24RS
12v 45Ah

Still in the midst of checking around. Cause some places list the battery for 2nd gen persona. The d55 or something. I dun think my car is using that spec. Also feel a bit sien cause even after replace batt, car need to send back to proton to reset some settings (according to sc and is foc i think cause i service there all the time) but jz troublesome lo.

Charger i got think about it, but i see that price and lately car no give me trouble in starting, then i gave it no further thoughts. Will consider again. Now is find right battery first. I rmb somewhere stated that it is not healthy to jumpstart persona vvt also.
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Staying at highrise or landed prop? If landed prop can seriously consider a charger with constant 12v power supply mode like Bosch C7. If you have charger like this, firstly set it to work as a power supply to force charge the depleted battery. After about 1hr, change the charger mode to normal wet battery charge mode and let it finish its job.

I recovered 3 "dead" batteries this way; 2x ns60/46b24 and 1x ns40z. If I were to change all 3, it would have costed me more than the cost (2x) the charger itself.
speedy3210
post Apr 1 2020, 11:14 AM

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QUOTE(ayamxxx @ Apr 1 2020, 11:04 AM)
I take camel battery brand cz if price + 18 months warranty factor. Rest are 12 months and some need pricier battery to get  24 months warranty
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not every camel got 18 mth warranty...... I think only the Premium and above range got 18 mth or more warranty period.
speedy3210
post Apr 1 2020, 03:22 PM

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QUOTE(MGM @ Apr 1 2020, 01:02 PM)
I have a 25 year old Accord that I need to replace the battery every 2 years even though I use it for like 3000km/year. As for my 7yo Sonata 12000km/year, battery tahan 30months.  Will using charger save the cost?
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I can't say outright if the charger will save you money. It all depends on your perception of things. Some people think differently whereby they don't believe in buying an asset to save on another thing/asset.

IMO, you will save but it will only be realised on longer run. I have always take it as a long term saving.

As with all things in life, I can't guarantee whether the charger can lengthen the battery life. But from what I went through for the past 11yrs, chargers did make a difference to battery life span, definitely. Only 1 exception to the case, a Yokohama MF NS60. 1st gen I think, (all black casing with red/black sticker) that lasted only 1.5yrs despite my most valiant effort, and I attributed it to manufacturing defect.

Current battery, a Bosch SM NS60/38B24RS 11p normal wet is in its 5th year service now. Now showing signs of weakness, but starting strong again after put it in AGM charge mode, off line of coz.
speedy3210
post Apr 1 2020, 03:26 PM

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QUOTE(tctham @ Apr 1 2020, 01:47 PM)
I think can consider ba.. lemme try try then..wonder should i buy the battery tester as well. if yes then almost 300 ringgit liao..
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No need tester, I reckon. But if you're a fanatic then maybe. But good to have a ciggy lighter port voltmeter if you can find one. that thing will let you know roughly the condition of charging system of your car; indirect indicator of battery health.
speedy3210
post Apr 27 2020, 10:38 AM

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QUOTE(E63 @ Apr 26 2020, 09:45 PM)
My battery is weak. I feel it's related to not driving much for the past month.
It just crossed 3 years mark last week.
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Just take effort to start the engine, park it outside the gate (if it is safe to do so, as some neighbourhood can be dangerous to even go out the gate) and let it idle for an hour or 1.5hr. Do not switch on any ancillaries like radio, aircond, angel lights/DRL etc etc.

Charging process takes time, not electrical current volume (Ampere), after a certain stage. Cold start (if successful) and running while engine warms up may/will provide enough juice for the bulk charging stage. The rest of the time will be for absorption stage, never mind the radiator fan coming on once a while while ECU trying to maintain cooling system temperature.

Just keep an eye on the car in case it gets car-jacked tongue.gif for it will be parked outside. If porch area is big enough, just do it at porch. Just dont sit inside to enjoy the aircond and ICE or other on-board electronic during the process.
speedy3210
post Oct 22 2020, 10:23 AM

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QUOTE(SleeplessEyes @ Oct 21 2020, 11:37 AM)
I wonder how long and how painful/difficult to type so long on your handphone.  notworthy.gif
Apologies i have to shorten some of your replies.

Regarding about new batteries, my Axia new NS60 battery would stay around 12.6V after resting for few hours. Rarely stays at 12.7V.

Right now im still monitoring my Exora battery. The charger will charger until around 13.9V then it will switch off until voltage drop to 13.1v or 13.2v then starts the cycle again.

And the issue with Exora turbo, each time after shuting down the engine, it will activate an electric water pump to cool down the turbo charger. I think it does that for 5-10mins.
But If the water temperature is abit too hot it will kick in the (loud) radiator fan for few mins until temperature cools down to a threshold.

All these, the fan and electric pump does sap some of the battery power. And thats why its originally spec for 55D23L but i decided to go for NS70L which is sufficiently large (and cheaper than 55D23L)
So imagine without a battery charger it has only left 12.5V (measured at battery directly) to sometimes 12.3v (on ACC ignition key) for the next engine start.

So thats why i make a habit to turn off the rear cabin blower and front aircond blower on cold start. Though sometimes i forget turn off the rear  blush.gif

AGM battery would solve this problem but it costs 3x of normal lead acid.
Therefore this battery charger is a recommended item. Especially now Selangor KL under CMCO and latest news, all employees in Selangor , KL compoulsary must work from home tommorow 22nd Oct.
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Wise move to change to NS70. If you are observant, you will find out that these fan and pump draws a significant amount of juice from the electrical system. Radiator fan alone is at least 120W (10A), imagine itf your car has 2 of it (like yester year design wira/iswara). Not sure about the electric water pump rating but I guess it won't be less than the fan motor.

Many people don't realise their car system electrical consumption (especially at night) and yet they are the loudest when complaining about short battery life. If your alternator is rated at 90A, you can do the math on how much is available for charging by reading/calculating the fuse rating of important electrical system (ECU, BCU, ABS, radio, radiator fan, a/c fans, brake lamps etc etc). have to keep in mind alternator output is rev dependent, so at idle its output is barely enough to charge.

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