CCA = cold cranking amps, a standard use in winter countries.

I don't think we need that lol

nope, this rating only for winter country weather.

last time i bought my Varta he show my how high is the CCA.
when i went back only know that CCA is not applicable at our weather

RC is more important cuz it's discharge of amps before battery dying
AH is amp hours, cuz we have massive electronics in our cars, and if your car has audio system which u keep bombing it. AH = amp hours. capacity it can give every hour

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Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)
CCA is a rating used in the battery industry to define a battery's ability to start an engine in cold temperatures. Generally speaking, it is easier to start an engine in a warm environment than in a cold one. The rating refers to the number of amps a 12-volt battery can deliver at 0°F for 30 seconds while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts. The higher the CCA rating, the greater the starting power of the battery.

Consider the CCA Rating if You Live in a Cold Climate
If you live in a cold climate, the CCA rating is a more important consideration than it is if you live in a warm one. Battery starting power deteriorates as the battery ages, so a battery with higher starting power should give you more confidence over time. Replacement batteries should equal or exceed the OE battery in ratings. Replacing a battery with a battery that has a lower CCA than the original equipment may result in poor performance.


Reserve Capacity (RC)
RC is a general indicator of how long a new, fully charged battery can continue to operate essential accessories if the vehicle’s alternator fails. It identifies how many minutes the battery can deliver a constant current of 25 amps at 80°F without falling below the minimum voltage, 1.75 volts per cell, needed to keep your vehicle running.

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Mar 21 2019, 04:41 PM

how long battery can last i dunno mang....hahahaha

I think my varta is from Korea.

Forgot liao
I remembered is one level higher than q85, like 60Ah that model.

Which battery last longer in the market now ??

Mazda 6 2.5L

I turned off i-stop permanently d. Don't need to buy so high end ones

Btw, anyone routed their battery to boot before ??
That should prolong battery life right since it's not in engine bay area

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Apr 7 2019, 09:09 PM

i removed NS40ZL battery(wet type) out to charge using smart charger. the car is used like 4-5 times in a month for short journey only

i think it's more than 24hours and the charging wasnt full yet.

when i took out to charge it was like 12.5V only. epic, replaced the alternator also cant charge it to high voltage around 13+

not only that, wet cells can cause the battery water which is acid to boil and leak all the acid into lower bottom of the battery.

my old car got it, whole battery area rusted heavily.
when fill up the battery water, then drive high RPM, can cause the water to overflow.

real CB i tell you once you see how bad the acid cause rust to your car body

factors are

- heat
- driving style (short distance = bad, long distance good)
- number of electronics installed ( slowly drain battery )
- frequency of usage, many days never use electronics drain the battery. Voltage low then lead Surface form crystals. Once that forms can't charge and capacity reduced

CCA amount of juice can pump out during start.

Best thing to do is to get a battery desulfator or charger.
Charge the battery to maintain high voltage.

Longevity of battery depends on how to run it

Have you use battery desulfator before ?
Like CTEK that type

That's the problem, we have lots of traffic jams here
And most of us don't travel smoothly even in 30minutes journey