i dunno bro, i live in a condo, i dont even have the luxury to have a power point near my car.
just second before i open back this browser tab, i was thinking "no point researching, since i cant use it anyway". that is after i try google and youtube a bit for research 

Bro, I regret to inform that whomever the driver went to to resolve the parasitic drain in the electrical system didn't follow the advice or recommendation. Instead he went to another and what was done was replacement of an alternator instead !!! I guess that is how one makes an extra buck by misdiagnosing.

The tester has already proven that the alternator is fine, why on earth the foreman went to change the alternator is anyone's guess and I don't even know who is this foreman. This Tuesday morning battery test measured CCA of 540 instead of 590 on Sunday morning. In just 48 hours it has lost 50 CCA ridiculous.

I sure hope that you are right. If I receive the dreaded call from the driver, surely then it is shorting somewhere again. It is definately shorting somewhere because only the alternator was replaced and nothing else was done. There was nothing wrong with the alternator, as the battery tester has proven so, no over-charging or under-charging happening as everything was within the parameters. What made the foreman to think that it was the alternator's fault is completely beyond me.

It is still the same new battery that is in use, which is alternated between my spare battery that I have, when the new battery is completely drained. Not 3 new batteries bro., sorry. I do try to bring up the CCA level in the drained battery back up and immediately thereafter switch the batteries. I never allow my own batteries to be fully drained.

Not yet 4 years, but the Amaron battery in my daughter's Picanto has passed 3 years.  With monthly charging using Bosch C7, hopefully it can last till 4 years.  (Hi-Life, replaced on 07 Jun 2017.

BTW, as I bought the car used (with the Amaron inside), the regular charging only started after the battery passed 15 months.  If start from beginning maybe even better.  Also during MCO, the car is only driven like once a week.  Pulse King desulfator only installed last few weeks.

I don't remember who asked this question earlier but the new Mazda CX-5 battery rating is 520 CCA.

Other information stated : 20HR 65Ah D23 (JIS) FOR STOP & START

Yes you are correct.

This is no different with some motorcycle batteries too. However from what I can see the motorcycle factories & battery manufacturers are shifting from the use of Regular Flooded Batteries to MF Batteries too ! 😣

Besides that, dealing with concentrated sulphuric acid is serious business. If anyone who is not injured with daily dealings of hazardous chemicals can consider themselves very lucky todate. Lets just say that I have seen a few of such injuries and I am happy that manufacturers have come out with MF Batteries for safety reasons.

Since MF Batteries is already giving not only myself but my clients too a better average battery life span from 36-48 months and my clients must follow my advice when to retire the battery, we are ok I guess. But still we are short of your achievement of 60 months !!! I hope to close that gap in time to come. 😊

Oh BTW, it is not possible for a 12V battery to produce more than 12.6 volts by itself. I strongly suspect it is other various reasons that led to the fire in your sis's Myvi. This reminds me to follow up with my Preferred Client's niece if she had repaired the nonsense done by others for her own safety.

Assuming you drive a Merc , BMW, would you change your battery exactly every 2 years?
AGM batteries costing RM 800-RM 1k a piece  must be cheap for you , 

Just like speedy3210, he has no choice but to replace every 1.5 Years for his VW. RM 450 each time. Still cheap for you huh? 
Even new Myvi with EFB batteries, aint cheap. RM 300 for m42 sized battery.

BTW, if extending the battery is not your cup of tea, then why bother follow in this thread.

Aside to SleeplessEyes,
Thanks for replying. Good explanation there.

But then again ah dude, if it was alternator issue, you shouldnt be able to drive it home with a flat battery.

Battery is used only to start your car. After that alternator takes over. Once your car started, technically you can remove it and your car wont have problem running. But if alternator, your car wouldnt last to be driven.

This Lancol Micro 200 Pro can it print out the test result ? I would be grateful if you could share it here.

time for an update....

unfortunately, my din60 agm died on about 20 months usage....and it died quite suddenly....istop error message showed up for about a week, then suddenly died one morning when preparing to go to work. I put my battery to charge every month and was hoping it can reach the 3 years mark, mana tau disappointed....

On my previous experience with the regular efb, when the error message showed up, the battery still can drag itself for almost 2 months. Didn't expect the agm to totally die at such speeds. Strangely, when i tried recharging it, can still charge to good condition, i guess that means no dead cells. However, the amperage doesn't seem to be enough to start the engine.

Thankfully, there is a battery shop just 10 minutes walk away from my home and the price for an amaron q85 was lower than what can be searched online....my only consolation for the ordeal 

The strange observation i had was that the previous agm battery seems to be always "on charge", ready for start stop to kick in; the new q85 doesn't seem so. So there is indeed some electrical delivery advantage with agm construction. 2nd observation is that the agm has greater resistance as it aged. After plugging the new battery, my engine ran a little smoother (better sparking/combustion?) and the transmission shifts better. Definitely not due to ecu relearning because i didn't unplug the terminal while changing the battery, did a jump start with the old battery on and engine running before replacement....

same battery terminal post side, din60 agm dimension slightly shorter than q85/d23l. I did that as an experiment to see whether AGM can really last longer....paid 750 for that agm 
Technically, using a better construction type battery will be fine, so going agm is ok while going regular non efb battery no.

*actually my previous battery before the agm was an amaron hi life (non efb)...surprise surprise....last slightly longer than the factory unit. While changing to the agm at the workshop, the workshop guy did a battery measurement, can still drag about a month or 2.

**next time i try amaron hi life pro din66

***side note, amaron no longer partnering with johnson control anymore, so future units' quality/longevity might suffer....
if have enough amperage, any 12v battery can start the engine....regardless of construction

i have a battery charger that has agm charging mode...and alternator can supply up to agm level anyway...

but the resistance build up and time to death much more pronounced than my experience with non agm....interesting....

Finally I could not drag any further, still can crank the car with the old battery which was bought in mid June 2017 but I have to charge it every 2weeks and sometimes I need more than 1 crank to start the car.  A total of 45 months used.

Got the Amaron Hi-Life at a decent price.  Before installation I told to shop to give me few minutes to wrap the battery and they were like    And said, how are they going to sell battery if every owner wrap their battery this way 

Habis la all battery resellers like Bateriku, Carput etc, if everyone has the attitude and aptitude like SleeplessEyes. 😉

Car - Myvi
Battery Size - NS40ZL
Rated CCA - 265
Type - MF
Duration Use - ~3.5 -4 years
Tested with a normal Voltage tester was at 12.5V - 12.6V.

Tested with Electronic Tester
SOH : 17%
SOC : 98%
R : 27.13 mΩ
CCA : 110
Voltage : 12.7
Stated : REPLACE

Bro., if I recalled correctly you did mentioned that the Axia has the Smart Alternator right ? I have read that these modern Smart Alternators would stop charging the battery once it sense that it at maximum capacity already. Or maybe it was someone else, sorry. 😊

Even should you get a Battery Tester, it is best to check if it has the capability to detect 1. A fully charged battery and 2. A battery needs to be recharged. I am not sure if the tester that I have has this capability. That way, you can compare the results on the tester with your charger, otherwise you will just be depending on the charger I guess.

Also is that your battery Toto ? Where is it from ?

Testers has it function. The most important information is Bad Cell status, which indicates that danger and the battery ought to be removed immediately.

There are Charger + Tester 2 in 1 in the market already ? That is very good and thank you for the lead. I remember someone was asking if only the manufacturer combined both the charger and tester into 1 device. Wishes do come true. 😊

Yeah you are right because of MCO, charger has become a necessity for those who are not driving now.

Q : Lancol Cat200, is it terminal protected ? Means if the terminals were accidentally placed incorrectly, will it damage the Lancol Cat200 ? Can't see it from the advert.

Bro., just to let you know that corrosion can eat away your terminal. As that had happened to another client of mine and unfortunately for Exora's wiring system, it does not allow for the damaged part to be replaced. This is according to Proton's Service Center Advisor not 1 but 2 of them. So what happened was the battery guys just cut off the wire and replaced that with after market terminals.

Apart from regularly cleaning the battery for corrosion, the thing which forced me to replace the old Good Battery was during inspection of the lights, I was sure that a light bulb had blown its fuse because one side failed to work at the previous night. Kena pulak tukar bulb, I thought.

Strangely after placing in a new Good Battery the following day, I tested the lights again looking to replace the fused bulb, eh all lights worked properly without me needing to change any bulb pun.

Anyway since I have gotten 3.5 years out of the old Good Battery already tukar aje la. No doubt I can squeeze another 0.5 years out of it but I wonder how many more bulbs I will need to change before bateri tu betul betul kong. Ada ke pasal jimat bateri, bulb tak bernyala lepas tu orang lain langgar pulak. For safety reason, tukar je la.

This finding really surprised me. Never would I have thought the "dead" light bulb would be link to an old Good Battery that has seen better days.