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 Engine Oil Reviews/Technical talk v2, Everything Automotive lubricants/fluids

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TSQuazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 12:10 PM, updated 5 months ago

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5,366 posts

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


Sort of a V2. Considering the departure of Technical talk sub-forum, F&F forum is lacking in technical threads/postings that are derived on logic/facts, with reference materials/links/documents and what not. Really missed those days and hence I hope that with the new thread we can head to a similar direction and have everyone benefit from it.

Useful information/Links:






Quick guide thanks to upontheriversky to get most people started:
QUOTE
1) viscosity at 40 and 100 - the lower the number, the thinner the oil, the better the lubrication. from here, we may sometimes see 0w30 can be much thinner than 10w30.

2) Viscosity index - oil ability to behave at rated viscosity at wide range of temperatures. Higher number means higher viscosity stability. important for high heat engine - turbos and high rev NA. lower number means, the viscosity will change a lot from what stated at the back of bottle at different oil temperature than 40 and 100 celcius so it is not good.

3) NOACK volatility - oil weight loss due to evaporation, the number is in percentage. the lower the better. important for turbos coz even branded oil may have high NOACK number which contributes to oil evaporation even in no-leak engines. As oil evaporates, the lighter weight will give up first, leaving the heavier oil so oil becomes thicker and less performance.

4) High temp/high shear viscosity - oil ability to sustain the mentioned condition, the higher the better. most important for turbos and racing engines.

5) Total Base Number - this is the most important feature for all average users like me to see whether the oil can actually be used for long time or not. this is the reserved alkalinity to resist fuel dilution of engine oil from combustion. Fuel dilution makes the oil acidic and therefore oxidized faster. The higher the better. Higher TBN also usually means the oil has lots of detergent which is good for engine cleanliness. Amsoil has the highest as far as i know. So there is no need for rigid classification of fully syn has to be changed at 10k, semi at 7k and so on, look at the TBN and do ur own comparison. Whatever close to 10 is good, higher is best and lower is so-so only. minimum would be 7-8 as dictated by SAE if im not mistaken

To sum up, 0w20 oil may be very thin but if the Viscosity Index and NOACK is really good, u wont experience as much oil loss or bad engine wear as compared to 10w30 having really bad NOACK and Viscosity Index. The specs are there, we just need to learn how to interpret so that we can all stop beating the bush when it comes to what oil is suitable for our application.

For enthusiast/speed chaser:
- pay attention to all specs mentioned above

For average daily drive and normal maintenance:
- pay particular attention to Total Base Number

If the brand of oil you are comparing does not provide any of the info above, it can simply means that the oil did not pass the test or the test result is not impressive that they hide it so people would still buy. We wont be able to say its bad until we see bad test numbers, so hide it and call it good stuff, people will still buy and call it good. Its all about sales in the end biggrin.gif

for example, try see castrol oil spec whether they have half of the specs i mentioned above and see amsoil, redline and torco specs on the web, these branded oil have nothing to hide biggrin.gif

The above is exactly why i stress on proper certification (eg: API) and proper lab analysis/testing/data sheets/technical specs. smile.gif

Wiki on Engine Oil
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

API specifications
http://www.api.org/certification-programs/...NGLISH_2013.pdf
http://www.oilspecifications.org/api_eolcs.php
API Engine Oil Classifications (from infineum)
https://www.infineum.com/media/80723/api-en...sifications.pdf

How much does it cost/royalty fee to get an engine oil certified?

Full documentation on API Licensing/certification/tests

ILSAC GF-5 specifications:
http://www.gf-5.com/uploads/File/ILSAC_GF-...22-09_final.pdf
http://www.gf-5.com/uploads/File/Final-GF5...ent-1-23-08.pdf
http://www.gf-5.com/uploads/File/API%20SN%20Discussion.pdf

PQI America (good site with oil analysis from EO bought off shelves at random)
http://www.pqiamerica.com/
http://www.pqiamerica.com/resourceroom/apiserviceclass.html

Car bible
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

BITOG (bob is the oil guy website/forums)
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm
oil shearing:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/oilshear.htm
viscosity:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/putting-the-...into-viscosity/
esters:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/esters-in-sy...tic-lubricants/
Acceptable levels of wear/guides on oil analysis
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/whatisoilanalysis.htm

Blackstone Labs - one of the more popular labs used by many BITOG members for their oil analysis
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
explanation on BSL reports:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php



API Licencing directory query (very useful to determine whether an Engine oil is actually certified)

https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsSearch

GM dexos® Certified directory query (very useful to determine whether an Engine oil is actually certified)
https://www.gmdexos.com/index.html



old v1 link:
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1438525
nostalgia lane:
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2072678
props to upontheriversky upon taking the initiative to learn and debunk on old theories/traditional thoughts.
noticed how many of us were young/unknowing (including myself!)
and this is me staying true to my words brows.gif
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=47469990

some information i have compiled on gear lubrication (for the F5MBB only though):
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=66977922

some GTL discussion (shell/pennzoil pureplus):
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=68597152

lol esters:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ester#List_of_ester_odorants


Motorcycle / Bike Section
main website of JASO:
http://www.jalos.or.jp/
Motorcycle 4T section of JASO:
http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/jaso_e-2.htm

JASO certification application manual, includes classification details and test methods etc:
http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV1105.pdf

List of JASO certified lubricants:
http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV_LIST.pdf
updated 1st February 2016, so most of the previously printed lubricant on the market may not match this list

external information for JASO:
http://www.oilspecifications.org/jaso.php
further details for JASO MA/MB classifications:
http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/..._MA_JASO_MB.php


Motorcycle / Bike Front fork/Suspensions fluid (or oil) viscosity charts:
http://www.quazacolt.com/bike/suspensions/...m_Transmoto.pdf

http://www.quazacolt.com/bike/suspensions/...ension_oils.pdf


Motorcycle / Bike chain videos:
Myth of chain lube - wear and tear explained:
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WBW chain lube application reviews:
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Chain lube research paper - comparing wax, PTFE, drip oil and un-lubed chain wear:
http://eprints.whiterose.ac.uk/4869/1/leepm7.pdf

bike chain videos and research paper links thanks to forum member alexei

Finally a Motorcycle UOA
Torco T-4SR product page and spec sheet
https://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/t4sr.html
https://www.torcousa.com/technology/T-4SR.pdf
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related post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=92734166

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Apr 18 2023, 10:17 AM
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 12:10 PM

Riding couple
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5,366 posts

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


Quazacolt's Proton Inspira UOA (used oil analysis) samples:

engine
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Transmission
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https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69700867

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=72742217

latest related post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=92734166

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Sep 24 2024, 03:56 AM
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 12:15 PM

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Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


Other information

Viscosity converting table:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/viscosit...rter-d_413.html

Torco's API certification screencapture:
Attached Image
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...anyName%3Dtorco
Torco replies to my query:
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the initial reply before the more formatted/detailed one:
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Another add on from sifu/staff pertaining Torco's reply
QUOTE(sleepwalker @ Jul 31 2012, 03:42 PM)
Rather interesting reply from Torco and a lot will think, wow.. definitely good stuff. Then again, if you do a little research into why API has been reducing the amount of zinc in the engine oil, you will understand why Torco can't get the API donut.

Check this link to know why API standards have been reducing the zinc content.

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0803sr...il/viewall.html

Viscosity does not translate into protection. Film strength provides the protection from shearing but there is no film strength indicator. Viscosity just means the fluids resistances to flow which is another meaning for being thick or thin. A lower viscosity number does not always mean lower protection.
*
Liqui Moly's API certification screencapture:
Attached Image
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...anyName%3Dliqui
Liqui Moly replies to my query(in email dialog form):
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AMSOIL FAQ on API licensing:
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible_amsoilFAQ.html

research paper on moly/MOS2
http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/report/e-report/00E115e.pdf


Some of Quazacolt's (current TS) reviews that covers extended oil change intervals:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=63666846
Iswara that's practicing extended OCI: http://twitpic.com/doro53
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=65204477
It's currently >70k km and running on Motul H-tech 100 plus xw30 smile.gif

Why should one do UOA? watch the sample/real life experience video
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in this video, it shows early detection of coolant leak (head gasket) before the situation gets serious.
also note that it was mentioned that there was no visible symptoms in the oil (frothing and what not due to coolant mixing with engine oil)
The only way to know, and prevent a hefty engine repair bill, is a UOA smile.gif

additional info for uoa:
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2016/06/10...m-oil-analysis/



What are acceptable wear levels from UOA samples?
Generally, anything under 100ppm, for references:
http://www.boucherandjones.com/lubeservices.htm
http://www.ppmoiltesting.com/eval1.html


VOA (Virgin oil analysis) Samples:
Courtesy of forumer mayalab
Mobil 1 Extended performance 5w30
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Mobil 1 Advance 0w40
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=109480264
Petronas Syntium 3000 5w30
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=110501382
Mizu Semi Synthetic 10w40
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Proton CVT
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Blackstone Labs Analysis report explanation: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/wp-content/...ne-combined.pdf


Synthetic or mineral/conventional oil?
https://gallery.mailchimp.com/f641390cba421...uly_2016.01.pdf
you'd be surprised at the results! brows.gif


Engine Oil Additives
Here's BSL (Amanda) take on EO additives:
QUOTE
Some additives do not show up in our tests. For example, we don't test for tungsten as part of our normal test, so we might not see that additive in our sample.

We don't normally see any real benefit to running additives, but we don't really see any problems from it either, at least not in our tests.

I'm not sure what the additive companies use as their base stock because we're not able to test the base stock in our lab.

Our general theory on additives is that the oil already has additives present, so there's not really any benefit to adding more stuff when the oil is already formulated very carefully. But then again, we haven't seen any evidence that they hurt anything, so if you like them, then by all means, keep using them! Maybe once you see your oil analysis results, you'll start to experiment by using additives sometimes and not other times, just to see how the engine does with and without them.
Original question from me:
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something to read on in regards to WS2 additives:
pdf click
It's a research/testing done by Millitary.



to those interested to know about long OCI:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...opics/1064407/1

some comments from an engine engineer on a mazda forum:
QUOTE
Boy; a lot of opinions and mis-information here. I am an engine engineer from Detroit with about 30 years of experience, so let me list a few truths:

1. An oil filter will never actually fill-up with contaminants, dirt, etc. unless someone sabotages your engine. There is a lot of capacity in a typical filter cartridge and engines don't really generate that much filterable soot and dirt. Most of the soot is too small to be filtered by anything but a special bypass filter. The real reason we change filters, is that the paper and glue that holds the insides together will not last forever; years, but not forever, and also to get that old oil out of the filter. Use a good quality filter that has a very high efficiency rating in the ASTM spec test. I like the Pure-1 or Bosch filters.
2. Really hard street driving is still a walk-in-the-park compared to the manufacturers standard General Durability tests, where the engine is cycled continuously between peak power and peak torque for hundreds of hours. One exception would be road-racing if you don't have a good oil-cooler and you let the oil temp get above 250F. The real severe-duty as far as oil is concerned is lots of idling and short trips. When you idle, your combustion quality is poorest, so you have extra fuel-dilution. Also in extended idling, your oil temperature rarely get above 150F which is what is needed to drive off fuel and water vapor from the oil.
Whenever an engine is running, blowby gasses get past the rings and enter the crankcase where it mixes with the oil. These blowby gasses are exhaust gas, which means it contains a lot of water vapor which when it hits the cold crankcase, condenses into liquid water. The faster you can warm-up your engine (by driving not idling), the sooner you can start to boil-off the water (and fuel) in your crankcase.
3. The main reason why oil turns dark is that the hottest spots in the engine (top of cylinder liners, pistons, exhaust side of head, etc.) slowly "cook" the oil through oxidation. Think of putting cooking oil in a fry pan and overheating it, it will darken. There are other chemical processes that degrade the oil as it mixes with Nitric Oxides in the crankcase. In GDI engines there is also a bit of soot from combustion that gets picked-up by the oil and suspended in solution by the detergents. The soot particles are typically in the sub-micron size, so they just pass-through the filter and are also small enough to not hurt the bearings and other wear surfaces in the engine. Synthetic oil has a lot higher temperature resistance than conventional mineral oils and so it cooks more slowly.
4. The net effect of oil dilution by water and fuel, effects of time at high temperature, and other chemical reactions in the crankcase, mean that eventually the oil will get out-of spec regarding its viscosity and its ability to keep the inside of the engine clean; as the detergent, anti-corrosion, anti-sludge, and anti-foam additive packages wear-out. The quality or age of the oil filter can't change this. If you just follow the manufacturers recommended change interval (or the maintenance computer) you should be on the safe and conservative side.

Dave
source:
http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-20...tml#post1413082



Brake Fluid
Comparison of Motul's DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 products:

5.1
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1335380510
Viscosity at -40°C (-40°F) 820 mm²/s
Viscosity at 100°C (212°F) 2.1 mm²/s

RBF600 (dot 4)
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1340122148
Viscosity at -40°C (-40°F) 1750 mm²/s
Viscosity at 100°C (212°F) 2.5 mm²/s

RBF660 (dot 4)
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1340124817
Viscosity at -40 °C (-40 °F) 1698 mm²/s
Viscosity at 100 °C (212 °F) 2.59 mm²/s

just to make sure everyone is on the same page, similarly with engine oil, it is easier to push thinner liquid, than thicker liquid.
for references pertaining viscosity:

https://www.dixcel.co.jp/en/literature/lid-2287/
index
https://www.dixcel.co.jp/en/literature/lid-2278/
https://www.dixcel.co.jp/en/literature/lid-2279/
https://www.dixcel.co.jp/en/literature/lid-2287/
https://www.dixcel.co.jp/en/literature/lid-2291/

https://wiki.anton-paar.com/my-en/automotive-brake-fluids/

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Sep 24 2024, 04:10 AM
goldfries
post Aug 5 2014, 12:26 PM

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OK pinned.
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 12:27 PM

Riding couple
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5,366 posts

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


**Malaysian UOA Compilation**

Various members UOA samples:
alcyon
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from a friend within GT86 BRZ group Malaysia
reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=92714301
Mercedes A45 AMG on Petronas Syntium 7000
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=103864779
First FD2 and Royal Purple sample!
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=105270277
Subaru Forester 2.0L NA FB engine
reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=105270441
Audi TT 1.8L Turbo
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=106533115
a Grand Cherokee sample! huge hemi 6.4L V8!!
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=108907264
Proton Iriz CVT after Sepang track day, starting with CamPro VVT
http://www.quazacolt.com/uoa/others/20240106_Iriz_eng.png
reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=111847846
Proton Iriz CamPro engine after numerous Sepang track days and Touge
https://www.quazacolt.com/uoa/others/202412...etronas3000.png
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second follow up sample
https://www.quazacolt.com/uoa/others/202505...etronas3000.png
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CVT transmission sample
reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=108907264
https://www.quazacolt.com/uoa/others/20240106_Iriz_cvt.png
reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=111218228
Proton Iriz CVT after numerous Sepang track days and Touge
https://www.quazacolt.com/uoa/others/20241227_Iriz_cvt.jpg


reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=109545571
Rare 1995 Honda Integra Engine used oil sample!
Rare 1995 Honda Integra Manual Transmission used oil sample!
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=111218228
1995 Honda Integra Engine UOA with Motul 300V
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=111218228
i think this is our first BMW 320D oil sample here?
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This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jul 7 2025, 03:13 PM
goldfries
post Aug 5 2014, 12:27 PM

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https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1438525 <=-- do include the link to V1 in your 1st post. biggrin.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 12:28 PM

Riding couple
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5,366 posts

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

**Malaysian UOA Compilation**
Quazacolt's own GT86 FA20 Engine UOA (used oil analysis) samples:

Unknown oil that came with Recond car
http://www.quazacolt.com/uoa/gt86/20171207...fa20_recond.jpg
Motul 300v 0w20
http:///www.quazacolt.com/uoa/gt86/2018082...6_fa20_300v.jpg
http:///www.quazacolt.com/uoa/gt86/2018121...6_fa20_300v.jpg
Penrite Racing 0 0w20
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=103864779 additional Q&A with blackstone Labs please refer here
Penrite Racing 5 5w30
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Toyota Genuine Motor Oil 0w20
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=106533115
Petronas 7000 0w20
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=108907264
Petronas 7000 0w20
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=110501382
Valvoline SynPower Eco 0w20
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This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jul 22 2025, 03:50 PM
Max
post Aug 5 2014, 04:39 PM

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must parking here.. biggrin.gif
kennywee92
post Aug 5 2014, 07:45 PM

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Great work there TS! thumbup.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 08:00 PM

Riding couple
*******
Senior Member
5,366 posts

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


**Malaysian UOA Compilation**
Quazacolt's own GT86 FA20 Engine UOA (used oil analysis) samples:

reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=111218228
Valvoline SynPower Eco 0w20 with Tan Chong MoS2 additives
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=111847846
Valvoline SynPower Eco 0w20 with Tan Chong MoS2 additives
Moly (MoS2) very slight increase with continual usage
https://www.quazacolt.com/uoa/gt86/20250311...ineEco_MoS2.png
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Quazacolt's own GT86 Manual Transmission UOA (used oil analysis) samples:

Motul Gear 300 75w90
reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=92721706
http:///www.quazacolt.com/uoa/gt86/2019010...l70_gear300.jpg
reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=103864779 additional Q&A with blackstone Labs please refer here
https://www.quazacolt.com/uoa/gt86/20211204...l70_gear300.jpg

reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=109480264
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=111847846
Finally! first Mobil 1 SHC 75w90 gear oil sample!
https://www.quazacolt.com/uoa/gt86/20250115...0_Mobil1SHC.png
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Quazacolt's own GT86 rear Torsen Limited Slip Differentials UOA (used oil analysis) samples:

reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=111847846
My First LSD sample, using Motul Gear 300 LS 75w90
https://www.quazacolt.com/uoa/gt86/20250115...ulGear300LS.png
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This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jul 22 2025, 04:13 PM
empire23
post Aug 5 2014, 08:14 PM

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From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
I like the fact that this new threat is more geared towards fluids and lubricants in general. There are a lot of fluids that make a car tick and EO is just one of them and thus having a decent pinned thread to discuss them is definitely a good thing.
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 08:59 PM

Riding couple
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Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


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**Malaysian UOA Compilation**
UOA (used oil analysis) samples, Contributions from friends within GT86 / BRZ group Malaysia

reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=92714301
GT86 Shell Helix Ultra GTL 5w40 from Giant Promotion (Made in Germany)
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=99008337
GT86 Eneos Sustina 0w20
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BRZ that went through valve spring recall and recently very active in track days participation
Motul 300v 5w30
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=103864779
confirming a successful post valve spring replacement with Petronas 7000 0w20 UOA
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tearing it up hard at the track! with Penrite Racing 5 5w30
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BRZ having engine rebuilt by local workshop
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=108907264
Subaru BRZ approaching a quarter million KM
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=110501382
2016 GT86 attempted longer intervals
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reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=111218228
2016 GT86 trying out adding 2T oil during refuels
Yes Blackstone misunderstood it as 2 tablespoons of fuel into the oil laugh.gif
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This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Feb 17 2025, 05:48 AM
izso
post Aug 5 2014, 09:56 PM

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Fatality : Pennzoil is a cheap and cheerful oil. Not designed for motorsports but quite good for daily consumption since it's cheap and OEM for Toyota.

And I got my Eneos Touring expensive cuz bought from... Eneos. My mistake really. LOL.. and 95 is cheap!

kalvinkhoo : 5W30 and 10W30 no difference except cold start viscosity. And in Malaysia 5 or 10 doesn't make a difference. In a winter country this would matter.
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 10:34 PM

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**Malaysian UOA Compilation**
UOA (used oil analysis) samples, Contributions from friends within GT86 / BRZ group Malaysia



reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=106533115
new Recond genuine mileage GT86 post facelift owner, and the car is still running in!

Engine
2017 facelifted GT86 engine oil samples, both samples are Liqui Moly 0w20
reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=109545571
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Transmission
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LSD
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This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Apr 15 2024, 06:31 AM
efaceninja
post Aug 5 2014, 10:42 PM

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finally a pinned thread on car lubes~~!
too bad i finally resorted to strictly comply to my manufacturer's oil until warranty is out.
izso
post Aug 6 2014, 07:54 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 5 2014, 10:42 PM)
finally a pinned thread on car lubes~~! 
too bad i finally resorted to strictly comply to my manufacturer's oil until warranty is out.
*
Got the budget? Swap to manufacturers oil, then immediately after that drive to a mechanic and change the oil to your own choice
efaceninja
post Aug 6 2014, 08:37 AM

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QUOTE(izso @ Aug 6 2014, 07:54 AM)
Got the budget? Swap to manufacturers oil, then immediately after that drive to a mechanic and change the oil to your own choice
*
Woh, don't have that kind of budget man.
izso
post Aug 6 2014, 08:50 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 6 2014, 08:37 AM)
Woh, don't have that kind of budget man.
*
In that case what car are you driving? What does the warranty cover? If it's those 3+2 stories where 2 is insurance company coverage, you can forget about ever using your own oil. Insurance coverage is a b****. If it's 3 years manufacturer warranty you might be able to get away with using your own oil at the service center (you have to ask if you can bring your own oil. Some allow)
kalvinkhoo
post Aug 6 2014, 09:50 AM

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BEST!! NOTED!! thumbup.gif thumbup.gif
kalvinkhoo
post Aug 6 2014, 09:53 AM

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QUOTE(izso @ Aug 5 2014, 09:56 PM)
Fatality : Pennzoil is a cheap and cheerful oil. Not designed for motorsports but quite good for daily consumption since it's cheap and OEM for Toyota.

And I got my Eneos Touring expensive cuz bought from... Eneos. My mistake really. LOL.. and 95 is cheap!

kalvinkhoo : 5W30 and 10W30 no difference except cold start viscosity. And in Malaysia 5 or 10 doesn't make a difference. In a winter country this would matter.
*
oh so the number in-front actually is for the temperature? hmmmm... noob in old i hope u dont mind me asking.


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 5 2014, 10:34 PM)
help you link tongue.gif

[Fatalit[Y]] kalvinkhoo
hmm not even sure if it works with his brackets lol

anyways for your future reference:
CODE
[@[F]atalit[Y]] [@kalvinkhoo]


now on pennzoil:

they say same wo tongue.gif

ANNNNDDDDD it's available at tesco at a bargain:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69341868
pennzoil/shell partnership btw wink.gif

i'd get it in a heartbeat if it's 0w20 lol
*
Thnaks alot!

This post has been edited by kalvinkhoo: Aug 6 2014, 09:53 AM
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 6 2014, 10:52 AM

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QUOTE(kalvinkhoo @ Aug 6 2014, 09:53 AM)
oh so the number in-front actually is for the temperature? hmmmm... noob in old i hope u dont mind me asking.
*
read this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#Grades
izso
post Aug 7 2014, 07:59 AM

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QUOTE(kalvinkhoo @ Aug 6 2014, 09:53 AM)
oh so the number in-front actually is for the temperature? hmmmm... noob in old i hope u dont mind me asking.


Aiyo.. go google "bobtheoilguy". His explanation is the easiest to understand.

I wrote something about this sometime ago in ZTH : http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/fea...ngine-oils.html

It's not quite temperature. It's the viscosity index when cold. The other number after "w" is the viscosity index at 100 degrees Celsius (usually means warmed up engine temp, not quite but close).

There's a lot to learn about engine oils. Do your research and buy based on your budget.

empire23
post Aug 7 2014, 01:02 PM

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I've got 4 cans of 300V on the way to service my Evo and a bottle of Penrite 10Tenths for flush with Liquimoly flushing fluid. Only because I've neglected to service the car for a bit due to being onsite and my housemates driving it around for a bit.

Also doing the 1500km break in service for my BMW. But this time with strong fluid that resists crankcase dilution because the N54 and N55 are very famous engines for utterly destroying even the toughest engine oils due to the ultra high pressure direct injection it uses. This might be a tough one to figure out.

TSQuazacolt
post Aug 7 2014, 06:08 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 7 2014, 01:02 PM)
I've got 4 cans of 300V on the way to service my Evo and a bottle of Penrite 10Tenths for flush with Liquimoly flushing fluid. Only because I've neglected to service the car for a bit due to being onsite and my housemates driving it around for a bit.

Also doing the 1500km break in service for my BMW. But this time with strong fluid that resists crankcase dilution because the N54 and N55 are very famous engines for utterly destroying even the toughest engine oils due to the ultra high pressure direct injection it uses. This might be a tough one to figure out.
*
what are you planning for the BMW? considering "1500km break in service", new car? the dealer don't restrict outside EO?
empire23
post Aug 7 2014, 06:33 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 7 2014, 06:08 PM)
what are you planning for the BMW? considering "1500km break in service", new car? the dealer don't restrict outside EO?
*
BMW M cars come with requirement for a 1500/1600km oil and filter change. They call it the "break in" service.

BMW does recommend Castrol, but I can use any oil I want them to put in as long as it meets requirements. But the challenges of a direct injection engine are unique due to fuel dilution causing viscosity loss. There are a lot of recommendations for Renewable Lube's BioSyn made for the Audi RS4 engine (another DI engine), but I rather not ship 20 litres of lube on freight.

Also reading the N55HP's technical documentation also shows that under low loading, the Bosch ECU allows the engine oil temp to rise to about 130 Celsius in order to thin itself and lower parasitic drag, plus it also engages lean burn which also increases the cylinder temperature. It saves fuel, but remember that for every 5 to 10 celsius, your oil oxidization increases by 100 percent.

I'm not sure what to consider that is locally available. Might have to switch to Shell V-Power which has lubricity modifiers in the time being while thinking about it.
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 7 2014, 08:56 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 7 2014, 06:33 PM)
BMW M cars come with requirement for a 1500/1600km oil and filter change. They call it the "break in" service.

BMW does recommend Castrol, but I can use any oil I want them to put in as long as it meets requirements. But the challenges of a direct injection engine are unique due to fuel dilution causing viscosity loss. There are a lot of recommendations for Renewable Lube's BioSyn made for the Audi RS4 engine (another DI engine), but I rather not ship 20 litres of lube on freight.

Also reading the N55HP's technical documentation also shows that under low loading, the Bosch ECU allows the engine oil temp to rise to about 130 Celsius in order to thin itself and lower parasitic drag, plus it also engages lean burn which also increases the cylinder temperature. It saves fuel, but remember that for every 5 to 10 celsius, your oil oxidization increases by 100 percent.

I'm not sure what to consider that is locally available. Might have to switch to Shell V-Power which has lubricity modifiers in the time being while thinking about it.
*
ah that's quite similar to almost every car brands in Malaysia although ours on 1k km instead.

I wish the same can be said about the bolded part in Malaysia. Dealers here are just wanting excuses to void your warranty sad.gif

wow nice technical details on the N55HP; I *think* the 4B1x engages similar operation considering the AFR from dyno charts. Not to mention the engine idles really hot and if you're speeding (could be just more ram air to cool the engine compartment) it cools down quite a bit more. Not sure on the oil temps since i haven't gotten my OBD scanners and i don't think on stock there's oil temperature sensors. (will have to verify on this at a later date)

btw if you're looking for lubricity modifiers, have you tried out Torco's RCL? that could be just what you're looking for, at probably much cheaper price comparing to v power daily.
empire23
post Aug 8 2014, 08:05 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 7 2014, 08:56 PM)
ah that's quite similar to almost every car brands in Malaysia although ours on 1k km instead.

I wish the same can be said about the bolded part in Malaysia. Dealers here are just wanting excuses to void your warranty sad.gif

wow nice technical details on the N55HP; I *think* the 4B1x engages similar operation considering the AFR from dyno charts. Not to mention the engine idles really hot and if you're speeding (could be just more ram air to cool the engine compartment) it cools down quite a bit more. Not sure on the oil temps since i haven't gotten my OBD scanners and i don't think on stock there's oil temperature sensors. (will have to verify on this at a later date)

btw if you're looking for lubricity modifiers, have you tried out Torco's RCL? that could be just what you're looking for, at probably much cheaper price comparing to v power daily.
*
The 4B11 is generally a bit hot, you'll generally see a rise in temps after you slow down after a long run. I don't believe the engine runs lean as the 4B11s are notorious for running overly rich to keep the cylinders cool. That's why you tend to get a lot of extra performance if you try and tune them with the "advance and lean till knock" method. I don't recall an oil pressure and temp sensor on the 4B11, so you might have to drill and tap your own.

I think chucking in Torco's RCL which is oil soluble will compound my issues further, plus I believe it is for a MPFI engine rather than GDI. I think the best solution is either to get a fuel like V-Power that resists being absorbed into the oil or an oil that resists absorption. I'd prefer the oil solution, because I'm so cheap I usually fill the car up with RON91 Ethanol blend if I don't plan on going fast laugh.gif


TSQuazacolt
post Aug 8 2014, 09:25 AM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 8 2014, 08:05 AM)
The 4B11 is generally a bit hot, you'll generally see a rise in temps after you slow down after a long run. I don't believe the engine runs lean as the 4B11s are notorious for running overly rich to keep the cylinders cool. That's why you tend to get a lot of extra performance if you try and tune them with the "advance and lean till knock" method. I don't recall an oil pressure and temp sensor on the 4B11, so you might have to drill and tap your own.

I think chucking in Torco's RCL which is oil soluble will compound my issues further, plus I believe it is for a MPFI engine rather than GDI. I think the best solution is either to get a fuel like V-Power that resists being absorbed into the oil or an oil that resists absorption. I'd prefer the oil solution, because I'm so cheap I usually fill the car up with RON91 Ethanol blend if I don't plan on going fast
*
oh ya now that you mentioned that, on stock form it does run as rich as 11.x ish on the AFR upon high rpm/high load laugh.gif

good point on the RCL, probably something i should take note if i am moving on to GDI in the future thumbup.gif

btw:
user posted image
or https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/hm8NizaeCB7 if you're having difficulty viewing from my website

will write more but first gotta goto office

=edit=
may check out http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php for explanations on the report

Anyways regarding the comments about fuel, because they encourage the oil sample to be taken hot (eg: driving the car for 10-20minutes/up to temperature) to avoid fuel dilutions that may affect the test results.
If that cannot be done and a cold sample have to be taken (eg: oil change at proton SC that lets you sit from morning 8am to 12pm sweat.gif) then it should be mentioned to BSL so that they may take note of the potentially higher fuel % found in the oil sample instead of pointing it out as an issue.

for my case as it turns out to be a non issue as fuel was less than 0.5% biggrin.gif

As for the metal parts, sure, it's nothing unusual as per the report comments, however i did spent quite a lot on additives (namely LM Ceratec and nanoextreme ws2) expecting that wear would be on the absolute minimum considering the claims of respective additives.
This lab report either proves me wrong or i'm just expecting way too much laugh.gif
Granted yes, sub 10k km is still a very early stage of an engine's life and there are still some breaking in of components, however looking at the universal average on metal wear it's just disappointing.

AMSOIL clearly proven it's claim, 6.6TBN after 8500 km of very hard driving, constant red lines when some engine oil even STARTS OUT with around 6 TBN (even torco SR1 that's also APN SN/GF5 certified: http://www.torcousa.com/technology/TDS_SR-1%20MotorOil.pdf )
Their 25k Miles claim does ring some truth in it wink.gif

Hell, look at the calcium value, that's generally detergent/dispersant commonly used in EO additives.
Most EO (unless you're on diesel/HDEO) don't even start out that high much less a 8500km used EO thumbup.gif

Viscosity is ROCK SOLID, hell it's even thicker than it's original datasheet: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf considering contaminants and fuel dillution that generally thins out EO viscosity when subjected to heat (likewise thicker on cold, hence morning/cold start sluggish performance on some vehicles on certain engine oils wink.gif )

i do suspect it could be a case of diluted additives into the oil, but who knows. (the nano ceramic particles are quite viscous, not sure if the viscosity test took that into account)

Now for this interesting bit:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manganese#Manganese_in_gasoline
i'm wondering if it's due to the use of RCL, Octane boosters (used amsoil dominators and torco's accelerator) or it comes as a natural additive in our Petronas Primax fuel.

Hell, it could even be the Techron additive i used previously although http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...t&Number=273248 & http://www.techron.com/what-is-techron/proven-science.aspx doesn't seem to indicate so.

i'll stop on those car "drugs" for the time being (never used any after my service/oil drain) and see how it turns out on next lab test wink.gif

Also, here's BSL (Amanda) take on EO additives:
QUOTE
Some additives do not show up in our tests. For example, we don't test for tungsten as part of our normal test, so we might not see that additive in our sample.

We don't normally see any real benefit to running additives, but we don't really see any problems from it either, at least not in our tests.

I'm not sure what the additive companies use as their base stock because we're not able to test the base stock in our lab.

Our general theory on additives is that the oil already has additives present, so there's not really any benefit to adding more stuff when the oil is already formulated very carefully. But then again, we haven't seen any evidence that they hurt anything, so if you like them, then by all means, keep using them! Maybe once you see your oil analysis results, you'll start to experiment by using additives sometimes and not other times, just to see how the engine does with and without them.
Original question from me:
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This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Aug 8 2014, 03:07 PM
kalvinkhoo
post Aug 8 2014, 09:39 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 6 2014, 10:52 AM)
QUOTE(izso @ Aug 7 2014, 07:59 AM)
Aiyo.. go google "bobtheoilguy". His explanation is the easiest to understand.

I wrote something about this sometime ago in ZTH : http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/fea...ngine-oils.html

It's not quite temperature. It's the viscosity index when cold. The other number after "w" is the viscosity index at 100 degrees Celsius (usually means warmed up engine temp, not quite but close).

There's a lot to learn about engine oils. Do your research and buy based on your budget.
*
thats awesome thanks guys!
empire23
post Aug 8 2014, 07:14 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 8 2014, 09:25 AM)
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*
I usually don't use any additives and unless there is a specific needs for them or a technical reason behind them. For now the only thing I plan on using is concentrated spray intake cleaner for my BMW and only because it is a GDI engine. I agree with BSL's assessment that the EO is already formulated for to meet its product target.

As for the Evo X I've bought some intake cleaner for it as the EGR and PCV system would have slightly dirtied the turbocharger and intake manifolds after 70000km so I thought why the hell not. Also got a can of LiquiMoly Detox, the industrial strength and more potent version of the standard 300ml LiquiMoly Engine Flush.

user posted image

Probably just mineral turps but it's concentrated and comes in a huge 500ml bottle, so I figured "why not?" laugh.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 8 2014, 07:22 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 8 2014, 07:14 PM)
I usually don't use any additives and unless there is a specific needs for them or a technical reason behind them. For now the only thing I plan on using is concentrated spray intake cleaner for my BMW and only because it is a GDI engine. I agree with BSL's assessment that the EO is already formulated for to meet its product target.

As for the Evo X I've bought some intake cleaner for it as the EGR and PCV system would have slightly dirtied the turbocharger and intake manifolds after 70000km so I thought why the hell not. Also got a can of LiquiMoly Detox, the industrial strength and more potent version of the standard 300ml LiquiMoly Engine Flush.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Probably just mineral turps but it's concentrated and comes in a huge 500ml bottle, so I figured "why not?" laugh.gif
*
oo never came across with that... do feedback after you've tried it tongue.gif
although, since your bmw is fairly new, i suppose you wont be using it any time soon?

btw that table yours? interesting looking shells - hunting or shooting range?
empire23
post Aug 8 2014, 07:33 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 8 2014, 07:22 PM)
oo never came across with that... do feedback after you've tried it tongue.gif
although, since your bmw is fairly new, i suppose you wont be using it any time soon?

btw that table yours? interesting looking shells - hunting or shooting range?
*
Don't think I'll be using it on the BMW soon. Just the Evo X and maybe the R34 once I undo the damaged those car thieves did to it before the police recovered it. Going to change the tyres as well on the X to Goodyear Eagle F1 Directionals. No need anything really sticky, the car has been relegated to supermarket duties.

Yeah the table is mine. Loading my magazines as I have a shooting competition on Sunday.
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 8 2014, 07:36 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 8 2014, 07:33 PM)
Don't think I'll be using it on the BMW soon. Just the Evo X and maybe the R34 once I undo the damaged those car thieves did to it before the police recovered it. Going to change the tyres as well on the X to Goodyear Eagle F1 Directionals. No need anything really sticky, the car has been relegated to supermarket duties.

Yeah the table is mine. Loading my magazines as I have a shooting competition on Sunday.
*
eh you've mentioned the recovery of the R34 very long time ago (over a year already or not?) still working on the repairs?
and rofl Evo X for supermarket duties laugh.gif

notworthy.gif on those bullets.
good luck on your competition thumbup.gif
empire23
post Aug 8 2014, 07:44 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 8 2014, 07:36 PM)
eh you've mentioned the recovery of the R34 very long time ago (over a year already or not?) still working on the repairs?
and rofl Evo X for supermarket duties laugh.gif

notworthy.gif on those bullets.
good luck on your competition  thumbup.gif
*
Yeah. Still working on the repairs because the car is quite low on my priority list and is now sitting in storage. I am worried about the wear and what oils I should use. I might just buy an engine crane and rebuild it by hand. Engine building is surprisingly simple when I leaned it working at my previous job.

Fastest supermarket car ever! Danish made Intrax Suspension with SuperPro bushes, DBA 5k rotors, Full Race manifold, Tomei exhaust, Cosworth IC and Intake kit and larger MHI Turbo.

Worst of all is my parents plan to stay here for a year. I plan to just give them the X because it is the only "auto" I have tongue.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 8 2014, 07:54 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 8 2014, 07:44 PM)
Yeah. Still working on the repairs because the car is quite low on my priority list and is now sitting in storage. I am worried about the wear and what oils I should use. I might just buy an engine crane and rebuild it by hand. Engine building is surprisingly simple when I leaned it working at my previous job.

Fastest supermarket car ever! Danish made Intrax Suspension with SuperPro bushes, DBA 5k rotors, Full Race manifold, Tomei exhaust, Cosworth IC and Intake kit and larger MHI Turbo.

Worst of all is my parents plan to stay here for a year. I plan to just give them the X because it is the only "auto" I have tongue.gif
*
do update/new thread on your engine rebuilding if it ever happens biggrin.gif

and words cannot describe all my jelly notworthy.gif
Klemann C
post Aug 10 2014, 02:24 AM

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In dilemma whether should try 5w-50 since my car current EO is due...using 0w-40

Is it advisable switch from 0w-40 > 5w-50?
Both are Mobil oil..

This post has been edited by Klemann C: Aug 10 2014, 02:27 AM
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 10 2014, 02:34 AM

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QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:24 AM)
In dilemma whether should try 5w-50 since my car current EO is due...using 0w-40

Is it advisable switch from 0w-40 > 5w-50?
Both are Mobil oil..
*
What's your dilemma?
Klemann C
post Aug 10 2014, 02:46 AM

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All the while been using 10w40, 0w40 since I'd got my car.
Engine feedback respond is quite positive since my car engine is 4G93..as you know this engine valve lifter prone to noisy & loud due to different EO grade used.
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 10 2014, 05:36 AM

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QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:46 AM)
All the while been using 10w40, 0w40 since I'd got my car.
Engine feedback respond is quite positive since my car engine is 4G93..as you know this engine valve lifter prone to noisy & loud due to different EO grade used.
*
so you got too much performance/good FC and want to lower that by going for thicker EO?
efaceninja
post Aug 10 2014, 08:53 AM

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QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:24 AM)
In dilemma whether should try 5w-50 since my car current EO is due...using 0w-40

Is it advisable switch from 0w-40 > 5w-50?
Both are Mobil oil..
*
QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:46 AM)
All the while been using 10w40, 0w40 since I'd got my car.
Engine feedback respond is quite positive since my car engine is 4G93..as you know this engine valve lifter prone to noisy & loud due to different EO grade used.
*
why you want to change to xw-50 oil? is it because want extra protection? or.. you expect that it will give quieter noise? or.. the foreman keep asking you to take xw-50?
ZeroSP
post Aug 10 2014, 11:18 AM

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So a TBN of 7.8 is low? But too many factors to consider as I read through all those technicals.
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post Aug 10 2014, 02:38 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 10 2014, 05:36 AM)
so you got too much performance/good FC and want to lower that by going for thicker EO?
*
My usual workshop mechanic reckon should try w-50 for better
top end & can reduced lifter noise..not sure about fc part might be worsen or better...

QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 10 2014, 08:53 AM)
why you want to change to xw-50 oil? is it because want extra protection? or.. you expect that it will give quieter noise? or.. the foreman keep asking you to take xw-50?
*
Heard some owner of 4G93, engine will get better top end power band & lifter noise reduced also..

Btw, I saw tesco offered RM139 for Mobil1 5w-50..tempting get 1 biggrin.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 10 2014, 07:26 PM

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QUOTE(ZeroSP @ Aug 10 2014, 11:18 AM)
So a TBN of 7.8 is low? But too many factors to consider as I read through all those technicals.
*
well API SN specified within 6.1-8
so 7.8 is just right.

also depends on how you drive as well and what OCI you're practicing.

QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:38 PM)
My usual workshop mechanic reckon should try w-50 for better
top end & can reduced lifter noise..not sure about fc part might be worsen or better...
*
try different brand/model of lubes, not thicker viscosity.
izso
post Aug 11 2014, 11:20 AM

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QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:46 AM)
All the while been using 10w40, 0w40 since I'd got my car.
Engine feedback respond is quite positive since my car engine is 4G93..as you know this engine valve lifter prone to noisy & loud due to different EO grade used.
*
Try Penrite 5W40 HPR or their premium range. Confirm will reduce lifter noise. Don't know how it does it.
WinterAngeLs
post Aug 11 2014, 03:22 PM

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Thanks for the interesting info thumbup.gif

Btw, i came across these 2 today.
user posted image
user posted image

Seems cheap. whats the normal price btw?
Any owners have any feedback using them on a 4B11 and 1NZ-FE? which is the better of the 2?
phobian
post Aug 11 2014, 09:37 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 7 2014, 01:02 PM)
I've got 4 cans of 300V on the way to service my Evo and a bottle of Penrite 10Tenths for flush with Liquimoly flushing fluid. Only because I've neglected to service the car for a bit due to being onsite and my housemates driving it around for a bit.

Also doing the 1500km break in service for my BMW. But this time with strong fluid that resists crankcase dilution because the N54 and N55 are very famous engines for utterly destroying even the toughest engine oils due to the ultra high pressure direct injection it uses. This might be a tough one to figure out.
*
300v 15w50 for your 4B11T?

For a good 60k kms, I was happy with TorqNM's VM155 15w50 until my friend decided to close his business. Currently running on Synergie 6100 15w50 and not really happy with it.
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 11 2014, 10:34 PM

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QUOTE(WinterAngeLs @ Aug 11 2014, 03:22 PM)
Thanks for the interesting info  thumbup.gif

Btw, i came across these 2 today.

Seems cheap. whats the normal price btw?
Any owners have any feedback using them on a 4B11 and 1NZ-FE? which is the better of the 2?
*
no comments on the 1NZ-FE engine as i'm not worthy.
for 4B1x, i'd prefer to go xw20 strictly.

however if you're ok on xw40, consider this instead thanks to nzh0920
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69341868

ori price is rm230-240ish.

That's the last natural gas pureplus base stock collaborated with Pennzoil.
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 11 2014, 10:35 PM

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QUOTE(phobian @ Aug 11 2014, 09:37 PM)
300v 15w50 for your 4B11T?

For a good 60k kms, I was happy with TorqNM's VM155 15w50 until my friend decided to close his business. Currently running on Synergie 6100 15w50 and not really happy with it.
*
he ran with xw20 on regular roads and xw30 for hard tracking usage iinm
Klemann C
post Aug 11 2014, 11:19 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 10 2014, 07:26 PM)
try different brand/model of lubes, not thicker viscosity.
*
How about 30 viscosity? Thinner & lighter?

QUOTE(izso @ Aug 11 2014, 11:20 AM)
Try Penrite 5W40 HPR or their premium range. Confirm will reduce lifter noise. Don't know how it does it.
*
Thanks for suggesting bro 😊
managed bought Mitsubishi Fully Syn 5w-40 from Aeon today RM119 costed slightly more than those forumer selling here..

This post has been edited by Klemann C: Aug 11 2014, 11:21 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 11 2014, 11:21 PM

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QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 11 2014, 11:19 PM)
How about 30 viscosity? Thinner & lighter?
*
assuming the original specification was xw40, sure why not.

although even 4g15 was ORIGINALLY specified to be xw30 from Mitsubishi Service manual i dug up some time ago. Proton called xw50 laugh.gif
considering you mentioned Mitsubishi engine... who knows eh lol
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post Aug 12 2014, 05:06 AM

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xw-20, I wanna try it long ago for its lighter properties. Just don't know which one therefore have been using 5W-40 all the way. For K20Z2 by the way.
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post Aug 12 2014, 06:46 AM

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QUOTE(phobian @ Aug 11 2014, 09:37 PM)
300v 15w50 for your 4B11T?

For a good 60k kms, I was happy with TorqNM's VM155 15w50 until my friend decided to close his business. Currently running on Synergie 6100 15w50 and not really happy with it.
*
That's 20 weight higher than what Mitsubishi recommends. Unless you're driving Le Mans 24hrs or some form of endurance racing with elevated temperatures with a requirement to maintain very stable oil pressures, that's too heavy and you'll never get the temps high enough for the oil to pass through the squirters and journals at the right rate.

Essentially if you don't drive it hard enough, an oil at that weight will wear your engine faster. Also being a MPFI engine, you won't have problems with dilution, which means your oil weight more or less stays the same. 15W is quite thick upon start up and thus unless there a strong ester or metal "clingy" additive, you will experience more wear upon start up as Mitsubishi recommends a maximum of 5W all year round for summer conditions with 0w for winter.
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post Aug 12 2014, 11:18 AM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 06:46 AM)
That's 20 weight higher than what Mitsubishi recommends. Unless you're driving Le Mans 24hrs or some form of endurance racing with elevated temperatures with a requirement to maintain very stable oil pressures, that's too heavy and you'll never get the temps high enough for the oil to pass through the squirters and journals at the right rate.

Essentially if you don't drive it hard enough, an oil at that weight will wear your engine faster. Also being a MPFI engine, you won't have problems with dilution, which means your oil weight more or less stays the same.  15W is quite thick upon start up and thus unless there a strong ester or metal "clingy" additive, you will experience more wear upon start up as Mitsubishi recommends a maximum of 5W all year round for summer conditions with 0w for winter.
*
and there you have it!

ps: AFAIK proton recommends 10w40 for the inspira so... rolleyes.gif
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post Aug 12 2014, 11:54 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 12 2014, 11:18 AM)
and there you have it!

ps: AFAIK proton recommends 10w40 for the inspira so... rolleyes.gif
*
That's within the range of Mistubishi's recommendation but 10W is as thick as you'd go upon startup if you want acceptable engine wear. That's I usually don't go any higher than 5W. 40 weight is quite heavy but still within the 10+- rule of thumb I use.

But going 50 is outside that rule and thus the oil would have a seriously hard time squeezing past those journals and tiny oil passages.

Anyways ordering 8 litres of Motul DCTF now. Nearly 200 dollars or 600 ringgit. Need to service the Getrag DCT in the car as well. Filter oso mahal.
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post Aug 12 2014, 11:59 AM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 11:54 AM)
That's within the range of Mistubishi's recommendation but 10W is as thick as you'd go upon startup if you want acceptable engine wear. That's I usually don't go any higher than 5W. 40 weight is quite heavy but still within the 10+- rule of thumb I use.

But going 50 is outside that rule and thus the oil would have a seriously hard time squeezing past those journals and tiny oil passages.

Anyways ordering 8 litres of Motul DCTF now. Nearly 200 dollars or 600 ringgit. Need to service the Getrag DCT in the car as well. Filter oso mahal.
*
4B11T maybe, 4B10/4B11 recommended is 0w20 and it's +20 heavier.
it's a NA econ box afterall wink.gif

hmm 8 liters for rm600 (75/l, somemore things at Australia seems a lot more expensive in comparison) doesn't seem all too bad.
i'm paying like rm50/liter for Motul's ATF 1A
seem like the way to go if i'm letting go of lubegard platinum additive. That, and my favorite Caltex ATF-J price hike doh.gif (maybe i spread the word too much on LYN and caltex got wind of it, like Techron concentrated additive)
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post Aug 12 2014, 12:13 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 12 2014, 11:59 AM)
4B11T maybe, 4B10/4B11 recommended is 0w20 and it's +20 heavier.
it's a NA econ box afterall wink.gif

hmm 8 liters for rm600 (75/l, somemore things at Australia seems a lot more expensive in comparison) doesn't seem all too bad.
i'm paying like rm50/liter for Motul's ATF 1A
seem like the way to go if i'm letting go of lubegard platinum additive. That, and my favorite Caltex ATF-J price hike doh.gif (maybe i spread the word too much on LYN and caltex got wind of it, like Techron concentrated additive)
*
I think that's the new recommendation but it isn't due to a technical concern, it is because Mitsubishi had to satisfy the CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) for most of its cars sold and a lighter oil helps it do that. Proton doesn't need to satisfy CAFE laws in the US.

The Evos don't have a renewed recommendation because CAFE is sales weighted. Meaning the cars that sell the most are the most affected.

Thus I'd try both 0W-30 and 0W-20 and get UOA analysis done on them to determine which is best for what. As you have no turbo to contend with, but your clearances might be more/less due to many factors as the 4B11T uses Mahle's forged hypereutectic pistons in a 2618 alloy. But being within the range you can't go wrong.

I usually buy all my DCT lube from the US or Europe. Too mahal here. Motul DCTF is nearly double that price I buy local. If I buy Mitsubishi DiaQueen SSTF-1 (rebranded Castrol Transmax Dual), it is 500 dollars for 8 litres from Mitsubishi.
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post Aug 12 2014, 12:19 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 12:13 PM)
I think that's the new recommendation but it isn't due to a technical concern, it is because Mitsubishi had to satisfy the CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) for most of its cars sold and a lighter oil helps it do that. Proton doesn't need to satisfy CAFE laws in the US.

The Evos don't have a renewed recommendation because CAFE is sales weighted. Meaning the cars that sell the most are the most affected.

Thus I'd try both 0W-30 and 0W-20 and get UOA analysis done on them to determine which is best for what. As you have no turbo to contend with, but your clearances might be more/less due to many factors as the 4B11T uses Mahle's forged hypereutectic pistons in a 2618 alloy. But being within the range you can't go wrong.

I usually buy all my DCT lube from the US or Europe. Too mahal here. Motul DCTF is nearly double that price I buy local. If I buy Mitsubishi DiaQueen SSTF-1 (rebranded Castrol Transmax Dual), it is 500 dollars for 8 litres from Mitsubishi.
*
aye that's pretty much my reasoning on sticking with the lightest viscosity within Mitsubishi's range.

My UOA did show a bit high wear despite the additives, but hey who knows if they are the ones causing trouble instead? lol
then again the lab guys weren't concern about the wear i'm experience due to the engine being very new and i do trash it very hard.

btw once i can confirm on some figures i'll post my latest dyno...
it's as you said, the ecu seriously did richen itself insanely despite the richest value on the remapped is 12.8 AFR
OBD already shows commanded AFR being 11.5-12 so it definitely due air filter stuck or air starvation... i actually double checked the drop in box to confirm there's no dead rat sitting in there rclxub.gif

ah that pricing is not from AUD? then yea it is rather pricey, though being in the limited DCT market, i guess it cant be helped sad.gif
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post Aug 12 2014, 03:51 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 12:13 PM)
I usually buy all my DCT lube from the US or Europe. Too mahal here. Motul DCTF is nearly double that price I buy local. If I buy Mitsubishi DiaQueen SSTF-1 (rebranded Castrol Transmax Dual), it is 500 dollars for 8 litres from Mitsubishi.
*
Cheam@C&R Autocare Glenmarie carries Motul DCTF. Cant recall the exact price, but was told its lesser than RM100 if I recall correctly. If my 20L pack of HKS cannot reach in time, its either Motul DCTF or Millers.

Well noted and thanks for the heads up on Mitsubishi's recommended grade of engine oil.
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post Aug 12 2014, 04:09 PM

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QUOTE(phobian @ Aug 12 2014, 03:51 PM)
Cheam@C&R Autocare Glenmarie carries Motul DCTF. Cant recall the exact price, but was told its lesser than RM100 if I recall correctly. If my 20L pack of HKS cannot reach in time, its either Motul DCTF or Millers.

Well noted and thanks for the heads up on Mitsubishi's recommended grade of engine oil.
*
btw glad you happen to stumble across this thread also, hopefully i get to see you in action personally during Sepang thumbup.gif
bro empire23 is in Australia i believe and his Evo X is now a supermarket car unsure.gif

do give it a go with lower viscosities; You've been missing out a LOT on your 4B11T man wink.gif
heck i'm a lowly 4B10 and i've been really happy on it's rev happy nature with 0w20 EO's since day 1 wink.gif
empire23
post Aug 12 2014, 06:33 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 12 2014, 12:19 PM)
aye that's pretty much my reasoning on sticking with the lightest viscosity within Mitsubishi's range.

My UOA did show a bit high wear despite the additives, but hey who knows if they are the ones causing trouble instead? lol
then again the lab guys weren't concern about the wear i'm experience due to the engine being very new and i do trash it very hard.

btw once i can confirm on some figures i'll post my latest dyno...
it's as you said, the ecu seriously did richen itself insanely despite the richest value on the remapped is 12.8 AFR
OBD already shows commanded AFR being 11.5-12 so it definitely due air filter stuck or air starvation... i actually double checked the drop in box to confirm there's no dead rat sitting in there  rclxub.gif

ah that pricing is not from AUD? then yea it is rather pricey, though being in the limited DCT market, i guess it cant be helped sad.gif
*
You'll have high wear for your first UOA and it progressively gets lower as everything fits in. As for your tuning I'd suggest sitting down with a WBO2 sensor and tuning up everything after a few pulls.

If you're going rich, I'd check the knock value and see if it is the ECU compensating for knock. Also check your ignition time. I believe that investing in a Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 cable for logging while you do your WOT pulls might be a wise investment.

QUOTE(phobian @ Aug 12 2014, 03:51 PM)
Cheam@C&R Autocare Glenmarie carries Motul DCTF. Cant recall the exact price, but was told its lesser than RM100 if I recall correctly. If my 20L pack of HKS cannot reach in time, its either Motul DCTF or Millers.

Well noted and thanks for the heads up on Mitsubishi's recommended grade of engine oil.
*
Motul DCTF is about 25 dollars a bottle over the internet, I'll buy it and it'll probably be here once I get back from site. Hopefully. The filter isn't too hard to find as there's an equivalent Ford part number for it.

I just cleaned the Evo today and wiped all the leather down with cleaner and conditioner, Kyrtoxed all the rubber seals and essentially left it in top condition. If I come back in 3 weeks and the car is dirty, somebody's gonna get hurt real bad.
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post Aug 12 2014, 06:46 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 06:33 PM)
You'll have high wear for your first UOA and it progressively gets lower as everything fits in. As for your tuning I'd suggest sitting down with a WBO2 sensor and tuning up everything after a few pulls.

If you're going rich, I'd check the knock value and see if it is the ECU compensating for knock. Also check your ignition time. I believe that investing in a Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 cable for logging while you do your WOT pulls might be a wise investment.

I just cleaned the Evo today and wiped all the leather down with cleaner and conditioner, Kyrtoxed all the rubber seals and essentially left it in top condition. If I come back in 3 weeks and the car is dirty, somebody's gonna get hurt real bad.
*
definitely will need to save up for the tuning equipments... everything don't come cheap and at the end of the day one would wonder if it's even worth it for a puny 100hp 4B10 lol...
I'm actually thinking of something like a scooby for my next car, but that's something to be explored maybe 7 years later or if i strike lottery or something since i just started out with my new car laugh.gif

btw, the ECU also compensate knocking not only via ignition but AFR as well? damn that could explain the commanded AFR values despite the mapping specified 12.8 to be the lowest value.
i do know that the ignition advance did not went as high as i had on that previous screenshot i @ ping'd you that other day

much thanks for the info bro, that definitely help solved a few mysteries.
maybe next dyno i'll go drug up the car to prevent knock rolleyes.gif
though, i either wasn't sensitive on the knocking, or the knock sensors/compensation was done so perfectly it totally slipped past me laugh.gif

btw prepping the supermarket car for the parents? lol
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post Aug 12 2014, 07:40 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 12 2014, 06:46 PM)
definitely will need to save up for the tuning equipments... everything don't come cheap and at the end of the day one would wonder if it's even worth it for a puny 100hp 4B10 lol...
I'm actually thinking of something like a scooby for my next car, but that's something to be explored maybe 7 years later or if i strike lottery or something since i just started out with my new car laugh.gif

btw, the ECU also compensate knocking not only via ignition but AFR as well? damn that could explain the commanded AFR values despite the mapping specified 12.8 to be the lowest value.
i do know that the ignition advance did not went as high as i had on that previous screenshot i @ ping'd you that other day

much thanks for the info bro, that definitely help solved a few mysteries.
maybe next dyno i'll go drug up the car to prevent knock  rolleyes.gif
though, i either wasn't sensitive on the knocking, or the knock sensors/compensation was done so perfectly it totally slipped past me laugh.gif

btw prepping the supermarket car for the parents? lol
*
Well the Tactrix OpenPort can be used with a lot of vehicles. Subaru included and so can the WBO2 sensor.

As for the ECU compensating, well, it's an unknown quantity at this moment as you're only editing stuff via the CANbus, the logic is still up to the ECU itself and that's the hard bit. Just like how the Evo X switches between 3 maps, nobody knows how the interpolation on map selection is done by the ECU, we just try our best to mod around it.

Best you can do is log things and see how it affects other variables. And of course take what I say with a grain of salt, I'm no expert on Mitsubishi ECUs or any car based ECUs for that matter. Although if you need help with GM DELPHI, E-Controls and other industrial ECUs, I can help laugh.gif

My parents say they want to come in December. I oso say ok lah, but I wanted to clean the car up before I serviced everything. One of those syiok sendiri things. Diff, transfer case, engine, power steering, brake and gearbox oils all changes with a fresh set of plugs and with a very shiny car. Feels good mang.

This post has been edited by empire23: Aug 12 2014, 07:42 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 12 2014, 07:51 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 07:40 PM)
Well the Tactrix OpenPort can be used with a lot of vehicles. Subaru included and so can the WBO2 sensor.

As for the ECU compensating, well, it's an unknown quantity at this moment as you're only editing stuff via the CANbus, the logic is still up to the ECU itself and that's the hard bit. Just like how the Evo X switches between 3 maps, nobody knows how the interpolation on map selection is done by the ECU, we just try our best to mod around it. 

Best you can do is log things and see how it affects other variables. And of course take what I say with a grain of salt, I'm no expert on Mitsubishi ECUs or any car based ECUs for that matter. Although if you need help with GM DELPHI, E-Controls and other industrial ECUs, I can help laugh.gif

My parents say they want to come in December. I oso say ok lah, but I wanted to clean the car up before I serviced everything. One of those syiok sendiri things. Diff, transfer case, engine, power steering, brake and gearbox oils all changes with a fresh set of plugs and with a very shiny car. Feels good mang.
*
if anything i know there 2 separate MIVEC timings just for hot/cold coolant temperatures, god knows how many other variables are there (eg: the 3 maps you mentioned)

your information has definitely helped me understand a lot of things in the past/now so definitely appreciate them thumbup.gif

and yes, that's what most car guys do, no? *coughdetailingthreadcough*
efaceninja
post Aug 26 2014, 07:59 PM

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anyone used any radiator coolant flush product before?
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 27 2014, 03:50 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 26 2014, 07:59 PM)
anyone used any radiator coolant flush product before?
*
used this from Eneos:
user posted image

but as i google i found :
http://www.prop65daily.com/Litigation/Peop...ncorporated.pdf

probably why they seem to be so hard to google these days, company closed? lol

anyways if your car is still new, just replace the coolant more frequently if you don't want risk that may come from coolant flushes.
efaceninja
post Aug 27 2014, 08:58 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 27 2014, 03:50 AM)
used this from Eneos:
user posted image

but as i google i found :
http://www.prop65daily.com/Litigation/Peop...ncorporated.pdf

probably why they seem to be so hard to google these days, company closed? lol

anyways if your car is still new, just replace the coolant more frequently if you don't want risk that may come from coolant flushes.
*
the car i intended to use on is old car, the coolant so far i believe has been using RM 6 coolant off the shelve of supermarket. not sure how frequent it changed. and i think there was a period it was filled with plain pipe water only.. tongue.gif well, back then i was not knowledgeable as now.. rclxub.gif now i plan to replace it with those long life one from shell. so before that, was thinking of giving it a flush first.

hmmm, what risk here you referring to? you mean it may harden the seals or dislodge a clogged hole (make the hole reappear and leak)??

also, i've discovered that radiator flush coolant product are a lot more rare than engine oil flush.
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post Aug 27 2014, 09:21 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 27 2014, 08:58 AM)
the car i intended to use on is old car, the coolant so far i believe has been using RM 6 coolant off the shelve of supermarket.  not sure how frequent it changed.  and i think there was a period it was filled with plain pipe water only.. tongue.gif  well, back then i was not knowledgeable as now.. rclxub.gif  now i plan to replace it with those long life one from shell.  so before that, was thinking of giving it a flush first.

hmmm, what risk here you referring to? you mean it may harden the seals or dislodge a clogged hole (make the hole reappear and leak)??

also, i've discovered that radiator flush coolant product are a lot more rare than engine oil flush.
*
ya pretty much what you've mentioned on the risk.

it's a given actually, radiators are a whole lot cheaper to replace. maybe 300-600 for the average radiators?
an engine is in the thousand, so products tend to focus more on the engine where else radiators? spoil/leak/corrode/clogged etc just get new? lol.

of course you could just replace coolant more frequently, use distilled water only and so on and they'd probably last many long years until you need to deal with clogging/corrosion] and even then replacing one still probably wouldn't be a killer.
efaceninja
post Aug 30 2014, 09:54 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 27 2014, 03:50 AM)
used this from Eneos:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
lols saw your blue cloral radiator flush at one of the Acehardware store. and many others brand.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

zionanubis
post Sep 2 2014, 01:54 PM

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using this oil for my weekend car.

mobil 1 5W-30 EP

user posted image


my car, Civic FD1 (R18A) engine.

feel little different with honda OEM oil ( honda service package 5w-30 eco friendly oil )

is it really can push up till 1 year, only oil exchange ?

i'm weekday driving, 1 month maximum run about 450~500KM

500KM X 12mth= 6000 ++ km for a year.

icon_question.gif
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post Sep 2 2014, 03:06 PM

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QUOTE(zionanubis @ Sep 2 2014, 01:54 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


500KM X 12mth= 6000 ++ km for a year.
*
if worry, change the oil filter on the 6 month and top up accordingly.
check the engine oil condition/level via dipstick every month
711726
post Sep 2 2014, 10:33 PM

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QUOTE(zionanubis @ Sep 2 2014, 01:54 PM)
using this oil for my weekend car.

mobil 1 5W-30 EP

user posted image
my car, Civic FD1 (R18A) engine.

feel little different with honda OEM oil ( honda service package 5w-30 eco friendly oil )

is it really can push up till 1 year, only oil exchange ?

i'm weekday driving, 1 month maximum run about 450~500KM

500KM X 12mth= 6000 ++ km for a year.

icon_question.gif
*
Can feel immediate punchy feel right? brows.gif Bought it on offer on Ramadhan ~RM140, used it on my mum's saga LMST, can tarik kaw2 thumbup.gif
empire23
post Sep 3 2014, 04:40 PM

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Reorganized my oils and everything into a proper shelf in the corner of my room.

user posted image
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 3 2014, 04:43 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Sep 3 2014, 04:40 PM)
Reorganized my oils and everything into a proper shelf in the corner of my room.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
notworthy.gif notworthy.gif notworthy.gif
those metal can 300v packaging look damn nice lol

our plastic bottles looks kinda plain sweat.gif

=edit=
high5 on megs/turtle wax tongue.gif

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Sep 3 2014, 04:43 PM
empire23
post Sep 3 2014, 04:51 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 3 2014, 04:43 PM)
notworthy.gif  notworthy.gif  notworthy.gif
those metal can 300v packaging look damn nice lol

our plastic bottles looks kinda plain sweat.gif

=edit=
high5 on megs/turtle wax tongue.gif
*
I think the plastic bottles are the older Double Ester technology, I used to get those. The new stuff that comes in a can is called EsterCore.

Most fluids I hantam and use as required, then restock, the only thing I skimp on is the Castrol SRF Racing. 340 ringgit for 1L bottle. When feeling cheap I use Penrite SIN, Motul RBF660 or ATE Super Blue.

I don't detail the car much these days. I'm not home very often.
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 3 2014, 05:14 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Sep 3 2014, 04:51 PM)
I think the plastic bottles are the older Double Ester technology, I used to get those. The new stuff that comes in a can is called EsterCore.

Most fluids I hantam and use as required, then restock, the only thing I skimp on is the Castrol SRF Racing. 340 ringgit for 1L bottle.  When feeling cheap I use Penrite SIN, Motul RBF660 or ATE Super Blue.

I don't detail the car much these days. I'm not home very often.
*
neh ester core:
https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/3pv5ZxGdhUX
from motul's site they still run both metal/plastic packaging
my ester core 300v are year 2013 production batch (assuming the date looking formatted numbers are the production dates) and since 300v stocks for Malaysia runs damn slow (i'd assume), year 2013 batches are still circulating around lol

Hmm i've been recommended on ATE brake fluids, how are they btw?
not too interested in the super blue racing fluids, just their ultra low viscosity SL.6 intrigues me:
http://www.ate-na.com/www/ate_us_en/themes.../bf_sl6_us.html

it being DOT4 and still able to have better temperatures/viscosity rating and yet still being cheaper than motul DOT 5.1 i've just recently purchased to bleed my brakes for this upcoming Sepang...
haven't come across them locally though, so still looking around the internet/options.

well my detailing products are just sitting there for the most part... i mean the last time i washed my new car (or any car for that matter lol) was months ago sweat.gif
efaceninja
post Sep 4 2014, 09:05 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 3 2014, 05:14 PM)
well my detailing products are just sitting there for the most part... i mean the last time i washed my new car (or any car for that matter lol) was months ago sweat.gif
*
in kitchen too? cool2.gif whistling.gif whistling.gif whistling.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 4 2014, 11:14 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Sep 4 2014, 09:05 AM)
in kitchen too? cool2.gif  whistling.gif  whistling.gif  whistling.gif
*
And living room lol
empire23
post Sep 5 2014, 08:53 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 3 2014, 05:14 PM)
Hmm i've been recommended on ATE brake fluids, how are they btw?
not too interested in the super blue racing fluids, just their ultra low viscosity SL.6 intrigues me:
http://www.ate-na.com/www/ate_us_en/themes.../bf_sl6_us.html

it being DOT4 and still able to have better temperatures/viscosity rating and yet still being cheaper than motul DOT 5.1 i've just recently purchased to bleed my brakes for this upcoming Sepang...
haven't come across them locally though, so still looking around the internet/options.

well my detailing products are just sitting there for the most part... i mean the last time i washed my new car (or any car for that matter lol) was months ago sweat.gif
*
ATE's SuperBlue and Type 200 are pretty good. The SL6 is ATE's offering for high performance driving but I've never used it before as Superblue isn't that much more expensive. Have used Superblue on the Evo X previously but preferred the pedal feel from Castrol's React SRF. Otherwise they're pretty damned close.

Yeah I hardly detail these days, just an autowash and a vacuuming when I get back and before I leave for site. Just serviced the Evo today, she feels good to drive and the engine runs as it should with the 300V 5W-30, flushed it with LiquiMoly Engine Flush as well but might use a light weight flushing oil the next time around.

This post has been edited by empire23: Sep 5 2014, 08:54 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 6 2014, 04:24 AM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Sep 5 2014, 08:53 PM)
ATE's SuperBlue and Type 200 are pretty good. The SL6 is ATE's offering for high performance driving but I've never used it before as Superblue isn't that much more expensive. Have used Superblue on the Evo X previously but preferred the pedal feel from Castrol's React SRF. Otherwise they're pretty damned close.

Yeah I hardly detail these days, just an autowash and a vacuuming when I get back and before I leave for site. Just serviced the Evo today, she feels good to drive and the engine runs as it should with the 300V 5W-30, flushed it with LiquiMoly Engine Flush as well but might use a light weight flushing oil the next time around.
*
hmm in regards to pedal feel, would it's viscosity property be it's major contribution?

assuming so, would you prefer thinner or thicker viscosity?
i have a personal preference for lighter viscosity in almost everything, and in regards to brakes, the braking feels so much sharper. Not to mention more precise clutch controlling as the brake/clutch shares from the same reservoir/fluids.

will definiftely check out castrol, they should be easier to get around here i'd reckon?
i had a choice for motul's RBF and DOT5.1, the pricing was as you said (for the ATE anyways) damn similar, only opted the DOT5.1 in the end because of the much lighter viscosity especially on cold starts slow/half clutching.

btw any reasoning on avoiding engine flush and opting for light weight flushing oil? which sort of flushing oil would you be referring to? most hdeo seems very thick in viscosity from the top of my head.
zionanubis
post Sep 7 2014, 01:33 PM

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[quote=711726,Sep 2 2014, 10:33 PM]
Can feel immediate punchy feel right? brows.gif Bought it on offer on Ramadhan ~RM140, used it on my mum's saga LMST, can tarik kaw2 thumbup.gif
*

[/quote

wow RM140, where u get it ?

dont mind pm the that seller? smile.gif


so your saga LMST, 4G13 or 4G15?

noting happend with 5w-30? sure powerful + smooth ~

thumbup.gif

empire23
post Sep 7 2014, 04:59 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 6 2014, 04:24 AM)
hmm in regards to pedal feel, would it's viscosity property be it's major contribution?

assuming so, would you prefer thinner or thicker viscosity?
i have a personal preference for lighter viscosity in almost everything, and in regards to brakes, the braking feels so much sharper. Not to mention more precise clutch controlling as the brake/clutch shares from the same reservoir/fluids.

will definiftely check out castrol, they should be easier to get around here i'd reckon?
i had a choice for motul's RBF and DOT5.1, the pricing was as you said (for the ATE anyways) damn similar, only opted the DOT5.1 in the end because of the much lighter viscosity especially on cold starts slow/half clutching.

btw any reasoning on avoiding engine flush and opting for light weight flushing oil? which sort of flushing oil would you be referring to? most hdeo seems very thick in viscosity from the top of my head.
*
Personally I feel that the majority contribution to pedal feel is compressibility, viscosity is less important. What I look for ultimately are the wet and dry boiling points, wet being the most important as it determines the stability of the fluid in the long term and its ability to function when subjected to real world conditions. I'm not worried about cold starting temps because it primarily acts as a hydraulic fluid.

ATE's fluids tend to last 1 or 2 track days due to their formula being less able to reject the effects of moisture but it is well known that Castrol's SRF Racing will only need 1 or 2 changes per season. Also the wet boiling point is about 100 degrees higher.

My logic behind my preference for a flushing oil (my definition is : Oil used as an intermediary to flush rather than a purpose made flushing oil) is simply because if I'm going to put new expensive engine oil in, it is probably better for it to go into a cleaned engine, free from any old leftovers. So I'll probably use some cheap oil and filter, give it a hard drive and then service it quickly with the much more expensive 300V and high perf filter.


711726
post Sep 7 2014, 11:56 PM

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[quote=zionanubis,Sep 7 2014, 01:33 PM]
[quote=711726,Sep 2 2014, 10:33 PM]
Can feel immediate punchy feel right? brows.gif Bought it on offer on Ramadhan ~RM140, used it on my mum's saga LMST, can tarik kaw2 thumbup.gif
*

[/quote

wow RM140, where u get it ?

dont mind pm the that seller? smile.gif
so your saga LMST, 4G13 or 4G15?

noting happend with 5w-30? sure powerful + smooth ~

thumbup.gif
*

[/quote]

Bought it at Tesco Seremban on sale haha. My mum's LMST has the 4G13 engine. Planning to pour the same oil into my wife's Myvi. Tried eneos semi syn 5w30 and petrocanada semi syn 5w30 as well, but the eneos was better. Can't wait to see what will the mobil 1 does to the myvi's engine rclxm9.gif

This post has been edited by 711726: Sep 7 2014, 11:57 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 8 2014, 01:03 AM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Sep 7 2014, 04:59 PM)
Personally I feel that the majority contribution to pedal feel is compressibility, viscosity is less important. What I look for ultimately are the wet and dry boiling points, wet being the most important as it determines the stability of the fluid in the long term and its ability to function when subjected to real world conditions. I'm not worried about cold starting temps because it primarily acts as a hydraulic fluid.

ATE's fluids tend to last 1 or 2 track days due to their formula being less able to reject the effects of moisture but it is well known that Castrol's SRF Racing will only need 1 or 2 changes per season. Also the wet boiling point is about 100 degrees higher.

My logic behind my preference for a flushing oil (my definition is : Oil used as an intermediary to flush rather than a purpose made flushing oil) is simply because if I'm going to put new expensive engine oil in, it is probably better for it to go into a cleaned engine, free from any old leftovers. So I'll probably use some cheap oil and filter, give it a hard drive and then service it quickly with the much more expensive 300V and high perf filter.
*
i see, so overall it would be a deal of trial and error i guess? (what fluid provides what sort of compress-ability/pedal feel)
my experience from switching over to the 5.1 (not even a full drain, merely bled the brakes and top up with the 5.1) is that the clutch feel during cold starts are very precise and doesn't "lag". as i lift of the clutch gradually the engagement is very precise compared to previous, either the car barely moves and if i lift off more i'd over do it and the horrible "manual transmission jerks " will surface as the rpm dipped too low.

SRF = http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPD...RF%20Racing.pdf ?
the viscosity on both cold/100c is almost double against bosch/motul's 5.1 fluids laugh.gif
QUOTE
Compressibility: The compressibility of Castrol React SRF Racing is very similar to that
of current DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. It can therefore be filled into any braking system used
in motor sport with the exception of those for which a mineral oil is prescribed. It gives a
“hard pedal” feel

i guess this make sense then? it's a bit hard on the layman/consumers if there's no actual compress-ability tests/data spec to compare with sad.gif

I see i guess that does make sense on the flushing part. At least you won't have any left over engine flush that *may* deter the performance of your new engine oil.


thanks for the insights as usual bro thumbup.gif
empire23
post Sep 8 2014, 07:10 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 8 2014, 01:03 AM)
i see, so overall it would be a deal of trial and error i guess? (what fluid provides what sort of compress-ability/pedal feel)
my experience from switching over to the 5.1 (not even a full drain, merely bled the brakes and top up with the 5.1) is that the clutch feel during cold starts are very precise and doesn't "lag". as i lift of the clutch gradually the engagement is very precise compared to previous, either the car barely moves and if i lift off more i'd over do it and the horrible "manual transmission jerks " will surface as the rpm dipped too low.

SRF = http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPD...RF%20Racing.pdf ?
the viscosity on both cold/100c is almost double against bosch/motul's 5.1 fluids laugh.gif

i guess this make sense then? it's a bit hard on the layman/consumers if there's no actual compress-ability tests/data spec to compare with sad.gif

I see i guess that does make sense on the flushing part. At least you won't have any left over engine flush that *may* deter the performance of your new engine oil.
thanks for the insights as usual bro thumbup.gif
*
I usually attribute the lack of bite in clutch during cold starts to the friction material of the clutch itself rather than the fluid for clutch actuation. My remedy is to simply feather it for 5 seconds until the material heats up. But I guess it might be different in a Mitsubishi CJ based car as both brake and clutch share the same reservoir. My old R34 had independent reservoirs.

The SRF is more viscous but it is an ester based fluid rather than a polyglycol one. Thus the pedal feel is spongier due to compressibility being higher. Castrol have obviously tweaked the formula to limit this issue greatly, but it will be slightly different to your standard high performance based poly fluid. But otherwise its performance under stress is extremely good.


TSQuazacolt
post Sep 8 2014, 09:06 AM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Sep 8 2014, 07:10 AM)
I usually attribute the lack of bite in clutch during cold starts to the friction material of the clutch itself rather than the fluid for clutch actuation. My remedy is to simply feather it for 5 seconds until the material heats up. But I guess it might be different in a Mitsubishi CJ based car as both brake and clutch share the same reservoir. My old R34 had independent reservoirs.

The SRF is more viscous but it is an ester based fluid rather than a polyglycol one. Thus the pedal feel is spongier due to compressibility being higher. Castrol have obviously tweaked the formula to limit this issue greatly, but it will be slightly different to your standard high performance based poly fluid. But otherwise its performance under stress is extremely good.
*
ah good info as always thumbup.gif
really tempted on the SRF after all the info you've provided... btw regardless of what castrol mention, would there be any issue mixing silicon ester (ya that silicon keyword is a worry) with regular glycol based fluids?
iskazulka
post Sep 10 2014, 03:36 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 12 2014, 12:18 PM)
and there you have it!

ps: AFAIK proton recommends 10w40 for the inspira so... rolleyes.gif
*
on my FL, proton ady updated recommend use 10w30.
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 10 2014, 03:37 PM

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QUOTE(iskazulka @ Sep 10 2014, 03:36 PM)
on my FL, proton ady updated recommend use 10w30.
*
they changed the booklet or something? or got official letter/announcement?

=edit=
i actually stand corrected as iinm matrix pointed out to me the booklet for inspira is actually just a copy from mitsubishi's manual and it is also recommending 0w20

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Sep 10 2014, 03:38 PM
iskazulka
post Sep 10 2014, 03:56 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 10 2014, 04:37 PM)
they changed the booklet or something? or got official letter/announcement?

=edit=
i actually stand corrected as iinm matrix pointed out to me the booklet for inspira is actually just a copy from mitsubishi's manual and it is also recommending 0w20
*
got supplementary @additional printout. stating use 10w30. later i dig-out the print out.
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 10 2014, 04:00 PM

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QUOTE(iskazulka @ Sep 10 2014, 03:56 PM)
got supplementary @additional printout. stating use 10w30. later i dig-out the print out.
*
great information bro thumbup.gif thumbup.gif
will help to put on page 1 since we do have a lot of proton/campro users on LYN nod.gif
Mahihi
post Sep 14 2014, 03:37 PM

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Attached Image

New engine oil in town,welcome to get it from me and try it to believe it, tongue.gif tongue.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 14 2014, 08:42 PM

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QUOTE(Mahihi @ Sep 14 2014, 03:37 PM)
New engine oil in town,welcome to get it from me and try it to believe it, tongue.gif  tongue.gif
*
any info on certifications that can be publicly queried such as the API?
evolution120
post Sep 14 2014, 08:44 PM

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QUOTE(zionanubis @ Sep 2 2014, 01:54 PM)
using this oil for my weekend car.

mobil 1 5W-30 EP

user posted image
my car, Civic FD1 (R18A) engine.

feel little different with honda OEM oil ( honda service package 5w-30 eco friendly oil )

is it really can push up till 1 year, only oil exchange ?

i'm weekday driving, 1 month maximum run about 450~500KM

500KM X 12mth= 6000 ++ km for a year.

icon_question.gif
*
mind elaborate what kind of little different u felt? notworthy.gif
Mahihi
post Sep 14 2014, 09:45 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 14 2014, 08:42 PM)
any info on certifications that can be publicly queried such as the API?
*
i tot u will do all the research, tongue.gif tongue.gif

https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...dName%3Dmaxxoil

supplier told me that starting from 2015,nascar and global time attack will have their billboard on it,we shall see...
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 14 2014, 10:08 PM

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QUOTE(Mahihi @ Sep 14 2014, 09:45 PM)
i tot u will do all the research, tongue.gif  tongue.gif

https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...dName%3Dmaxxoil

supplier told me that starting from 2015,nascar and global time attack will have their billboard on it,we shall see...
*
from the link, the brand name and products don't match at all.

noticed how they did not put the proper API donut/star burst logo and i believe it's because they are not certified.
Considering they are supposedly a US company, they would get into serious trouble putting the API donut/star burst logo if they aren't actually certified sad.gif
Mavik
post Sep 14 2014, 10:15 PM

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Just started using Motul 8100 x-cess engine oil for my diesel engine. Very hard to find real quality engine oil for diesel engines especially those suited for performance.

user posted image

https://www.motul.com/gb/en/products/oils-l...100-x-cess-5w40

So far it makes the diesel engine feel quite smooth as compared to the standard ones which the dealership provides which are normally Castrol 5w-30.
Mahihi
post Sep 14 2014, 10:18 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 14 2014, 10:08 PM)
from the link, the brand name and products don't match at all.

noticed how they did not put the proper API donut/star burst logo and i believe it's because they are not certified.
Considering they are supposedly a US company, they would get into serious trouble putting the API donut/star burst logo if they aren't actually certified sad.gif
*
as i've been told,they are in the process of putting all of the products into the api directory,and they will separate the company,of course,not sure whether they are bull shiting anot,i can only wait for next year.....so far the semi i gotten from them have the vw and mb approval,mean while other brand semi oil rarely has the approval number,so if is true,i am on the right bet...

but then,how about this picture??

Attached Image

This post has been edited by Mahihi: Sep 14 2014, 10:36 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 14 2014, 10:23 PM

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QUOTE(Mahihi @ Sep 14 2014, 10:18 PM)
as i been told,they are in the process of putting all of the products into the api directory,and they will separate the company,of course,not sure whether they are bull shiting anot,i can only wait for next year.....so far the semi i gotten from them have the vw and mb approval,mean while other semi oil rarely has the approval number,so if is true,i am on the right bet...

but then,how about this picture??

Attached Image
*
is that for the products listed from that "olein" company? if not then it could be a serious breach of trust.

perhaps i can inquire further with maxxoil, see what they say (as what i've done to Torco/Liqui moly tongue.gif )
Mavik
post Sep 14 2014, 10:29 PM

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QUOTE(Mahihi @ Sep 14 2014, 10:18 PM)
as i been told,they are in the process of putting all of the products into the api directory,and they will separate the company,of course,not sure whether they are bull shiting anot,i can only wait for next year.....so far the semi i gotten from them have the vw and mb approval,mean while other semi oil rarely has the approval number,so if is true,i am on the right bet...

but then,how about this picture??

Attached Image
*
Can't use this on my car sad.gif

No LL-01 or LL-04 rating....
Mahihi
post Sep 14 2014, 10:30 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 14 2014, 10:23 PM)
is that for the products listed from that "olein" company? if not then it could be a serious breach of trust.

perhaps i can inquire further with maxxoil, see what they say (as what i've done to Torco/Liqui moly tongue.gif )
*
ya lo,olein aka OLIN,lol....

eh,help me ask2,i scared kena tipu leh, sad.gif sad.gif
Mahihi
post Sep 14 2014, 10:31 PM

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QUOTE(Mavik @ Sep 14 2014, 10:29 PM)
Can't use this on my car sad.gif

No LL-01 or LL-04 rating....
*
i can oni afford semi for now,their fully selling price for the customer is at least RM 220, cry.gif cry.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 14 2014, 10:36 PM

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QUOTE(Mavik @ Sep 14 2014, 10:15 PM)
Just started using Motul 8100 x-cess engine oil for my diesel engine. Very hard to find real quality engine oil for diesel engines especially those suited for performance.

https://www.motul.com/gb/en/products/oils-l...100-x-cess-5w40

So far it makes the diesel engine feel quite smooth as compared to the standard ones which the dealership provides which are normally Castrol 5w-30.
*
hmm it's diesel certification seems a bit obsolete:
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1389027113

http://www.api.org/certification-programs/...NGLISH_2013.pdf

however with the rather high TBN, and BMW specification/approvals, i guess you'll still be fine.
but yeah as you said, diesel engine oil that's specific to performance is rather rare and most of them are not properly certified (at least on the diesel portion)

if possible, do consider publishing UOA's tongue.gif
i can consider organizing bulk to save everyone (and my own) shipping cost
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 14 2014, 10:36 PM

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QUOTE(Mahihi @ Sep 14 2014, 10:30 PM)
ya lo,olein aka OLIN,lol....

eh,help me ask2,i scared kena tipu leh,  sad.gif  sad.gif
*
will do, will post/tag updates for you/everyone nod.gif
Mavik
post Sep 14 2014, 10:39 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 14 2014, 10:36 PM)
hmm it's diesel certification seems a bit obsolete:
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1389027113

http://www.api.org/certification-programs/...NGLISH_2013.pdf

however with the rather high TBN, and BMW specification/approvals, i guess you'll still be fine.
but yeah as you said, diesel engine oil that's specific to performance is rather rare and most of them are not properly certified (at least on the diesel portion)

if possible, do consider publishing UOA's tongue.gif
i can consider organizing bulk to save everyone (and my own) shipping cost
*
What's UOA?

I am actually more interested in the 300v Racing 5w40 from Motul for track days. Dropped Motul a message to see if there are any issues with this oil with my car's current engine.
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 14 2014, 10:49 PM

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QUOTE(Mavik @ Sep 14 2014, 10:39 PM)
What's UOA?

I am actually more interested in the 300v Racing 5w40 from Motul for track days. Dropped Motul a message to see if there are any issues with this oil with my car's current engine.
*
used oil analysis, may refer to this bro:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69700867

i'm currently running on motul 300v 0w20 at the moment, will be sending mine for another analysis after run 7k km nod.gif
efaceninja
post Sep 15 2014, 01:47 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 8 2014, 09:25 AM)
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wow you really went-on on an extreme path in your EO thingys. first thing i wanna ask, what's TBN (quick search shows Total Base Number) stands/mean for? see you and the report equates that higher number = oil can use longer..

what's the cost of this analysis? you've to send the oil sample all the way to Fort Wayne, Indiana from malaysia here?? malaysia no such analysis lab ah? like SGS or something.. but anyway, good info from you bro~! notworthy.gif mainly on the oil additives part. you know i poured in ceratec into my 40k km engine last time (after heavily poisoned by you whistling.gif this thread (v1), some other local bloggers, online reads, etc). i didn't felt even a slightest change/improvement! haha, i always told myself well, because my engine still very new, and always change oil on time, so the condition inside the engine still very nice and therefore the ceratec can't improve much things. after that i did once poured in BlueChem Nano Engine Super Protection, after 10k of ceratec. this is the only brand of engine additive that's supported (actually distributed) by my SC. still, didn't felt any improvement. *felt as in butt dyno here. i've ever since slowed down on my affection on oil additives, or to the extend of engine oil choices in general. since i want to keep my service/warranty record sparkling clean, i can only use the brand supported by my SC, which is, Shell. already claimed 1 unit of speed/ABS sensor, FOC, so i value my warranty lols.

anyway, one of my friend who's driving wira SE (7yrs old car?), before that he was using Shell HX-7 10w40 semi. then i ask him to change to LM 15w40 MOS2 Mineral, he did said he felt the power pickup (from example go from traffic light) is better than before, and the FC does improved a bit. hopefully its not placebo.. he has since using that LM after that, as it is cheaper (mineral vs semi) and it feels better than Shell's.

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Sep 15 2014, 01:52 AM
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 15 2014, 02:57 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Sep 15 2014, 01:47 AM)
wow you really went-on on an extreme path in your EO thingys.  first thing i wanna ask, what's TBN (quick search shows Total Base Number) stands/mean for? see you and the report equates that higher number = oil can use longer..

what's the cost of this analysis? you've to send the oil sample all the way to Fort Wayne, Indiana from malaysia here?? malaysia no such analysis lab ah? like SGS or something..  but anyway, good info from you bro~! notworthy.gif mainly on the oil additives part.  you know i poured in ceratec into my 40k km engine last time (after heavily poisoned by you whistling.gif this thread (v1), some other local bloggers, online reads, etc).  i didn't felt even a slightest change/improvement! haha, i always told myself well, because my engine still very new, and always change oil on time, so the condition inside the engine still very nice and therefore the ceratec can't improve much things.  after that i did once poured in BlueChem Nano Engine Super Protection, after 10k of ceratec.  this is the only brand of engine additive that's supported (actually distributed) by my SC.  still, didn't felt any improvement.  *felt as in butt dyno here.  i've ever since slowed down on my affection on oil additives, or to the extend of engine oil choices in general.  since i want to keep my service/warranty record sparkling clean, i can only use the brand supported by my SC, which is, Shell.  already claimed 1 unit of speed/ABS sensor, FOC, so i value my warranty lols.

anyway, one of my friend who's driving wira SE (7yrs old car?), before that he was using Shell HX-7 10w40 semi.  then i ask him to change to LM 15w40 MOS2 Mineral, he did said he felt the power pickup (from example go from traffic light) is better than before, and the FC does improved a bit.  hopefully its not placebo.. he has since using that LM after that, as it is cheaper (mineral vs semi) and it feels better than Shell's.
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here tongue.gif
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_Base_Number

the total cost is around 230+ including that hefty postal fee that's even more expensive than the analysis cost itself.
i'd look for local labs, except they cost between 300-400+ from the quotations i've been given.
until i can find local labs who does this, i guess there's no choice but to send samples all the way to USA.

i don't think I've contacted SGS yet, so yeap i've done exactly that via email just now: http://www.sgs.my/en/Automotive/Vehicles-a...t-Analysis.aspx

as for additives, it is unfortunate that they do not have better methods to test for other elements (eg: ceramic) and the usefulness of it.
as per BSL's Amanda mentioned, it's ok to go with or without additives. they may or may not help, it's ultimately up to individual preferences/engines (types, conditions etc) and so on.
i would never know how my engine is without ws2/ceratec since i immediately used them on the first service (yes a bit stupid i know when it comes to objectively trying out things), i guess i was just way too impatient.

it's going to take a damn long while before i return to amsoil just to see if ws2/ceratec made it smoother, or it's very capable by it's own since OCI's for inspira are 10k km, and i got a pretty decent stockpile of Motul's 300v sweat.gif

btw don't be too easy going on additives that's officially distributed by SC's. proton had X1R and it finally caused serious issues on the CFE engines (and who knows how slow of a death the NA campros are faring all these while, which may have been one of the cause to proton's reputation for "building shit engines")

remember, no matter what elements/material additives used, generally they'd still require a carrier, and to maximize profits, said carriers are typically mineral oil and that's what cause most of the issues on engines as with the case with X1R.
reference:
user posted image

well, using EO from SC aint so bad if you're not an enthusiast.
the only drawback is the obvious higher pricing than market (eg: tesco tongue.gif )
so long you're on the full synthetics that's API SN certified, it's hard to go wrong nod.gif

imho, LM's MOS2 additive isn't a placebo.
however in my pursuit for better lubricants, i soon come to realize that it's actually more economical to run full synthetics at longer oil change intervals.

imagine liqui moly at 5k km ~rm120/bottle
10k km is 240 + 2 oil filters and 2 labor charges.

a full synthetic like amsoil that cost rm180 (or less if you're not going for the high end signature series) can easily push 40k km (25k miles rofl or 24k km/15k miles under severe usage as specified by amsoil), but lets put 10k km for the sake of comparison.

see the comparison now?
arguably, LM MOS2 semi synthetic can be used past 5k km, however in my own experiences, ~5-6k km the performance would begin to degrade while in full synthetics, going way beyond 10k km is never an issue in any of the vehicles in my household.

with all that said though, i still use MOS2 for my kancil, as it had 10k km originally specified even for older API specifications and back then everyone was on mineral oil.
supposedly, the 660cc 3 cylinder wouldn't have much blowby/contaminants so it does make sense for the longer OCI.
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post Sep 17 2014, 09:24 AM

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post Sep 22 2014, 08:45 AM

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yup that made sense too. how about the oil filter? need special ones or the normal one can last more than 10k?
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post Sep 22 2014, 09:44 AM

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QUOTE(fixgd @ Sep 22 2014, 08:45 AM)
yup that made sense too. how about the oil filter? need special ones or the normal one can last more than 10k?
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you can always change them halfway; you do not drain your engine oil entirely during oil filter replacement.
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post Sep 22 2014, 09:47 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 22 2014, 09:44 AM)
you can always change them halfway; you do not drain your engine oil entirely during oil filter replacement.
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ic. still need 2 filters. got it.
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post Sep 22 2014, 03:04 PM

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QUOTE(fixgd @ Sep 22 2014, 09:47 AM)
ic. still need 2 filters. got it.
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most car manufacturers still use back the same filter and have 10k km oci, so it's only 2 filters if you're pushing beyond the regular (that most SC uses) 10k km
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post Sep 22 2014, 11:39 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 22 2014, 03:04 PM)
most car manufacturers still use back the same filter and have 10k km oci, so it's only 2 filters if you're pushing beyond the regular (that most SC uses) 10k km
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ic. usually fully syn can go beyond that (10k) without any problem?
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 23 2014, 01:20 AM

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QUOTE(fixgd @ Sep 22 2014, 11:39 PM)
ic. usually fully syn can go beyond that (10k) without any problem?
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most reputable API SN certified fully synthetics have no problem going beyond 10k km.
amsoil signature series 0w20 i used was labeled to go between 25-40k km/1 year whichever first.
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post Sep 23 2014, 06:59 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 23 2014, 01:20 AM)
most reputable API SN certified fully synthetics have no problem going beyond 10k km.
amsoil signature series 0w20 i used was labeled to go between 25-40k km/1 year whichever first.
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yeah heard bout that too. thats not just some marketing gimmick?

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post Sep 23 2014, 07:58 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 23 2014, 01:20 AM)
most reputable API SN certified fully synthetics have no problem going beyond 10k km.
amsoil signature series 0w20 i used was labeled to go between 25-40k km/1 year whichever first.
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Those labels take into consideration of the country and weather. Try that in Malaysian weather and humidity I guarantee your car will have issues in the long run if you constantly use the same oil and OCI.
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post Sep 23 2014, 09:36 AM

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QUOTE(fixgd @ Sep 23 2014, 06:59 AM)
yeah heard bout that too. thats not just some marketing gimmick?
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QUOTE(izso @ Sep 23 2014, 07:58 AM)
Those labels take into consideration of the country and weather. Try that in Malaysian weather and humidity I guarantee your car will have issues in the long run if you constantly use the same oil and OCI.
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while i have yet to try extreme extended OCI myself (heck, i don't think i can even achieve such high mileage within a year), the UOA report i've included at the first page should be self explanatory.

There are also links/guides/wiki on how to read the UOA report, but if you want a summary here:
my engine oil after 8500km and ~7ish months of usage came out having more detergent/additives than most engine oil being NEW, now how's that for a surprise?
in fact, despite such decently long usage, it has more TBN than torco's SR1 being new according to torco's manufacturer data spec/sheet. (6.6 TBN vs 6.2 TBN)
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post Sep 24 2014, 02:09 PM

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efaceninja
Mahihi

update: been more than 10 days, no reply from maxx oil or SGS, lol.
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post Sep 24 2014, 06:16 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 24 2014, 02:09 PM)
efaceninja
Mahihi

update: been more than 10 days, no reply from maxx oil or SGS, lol.
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haiya,lol....
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post Sep 25 2014, 07:42 AM

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API SL fully synthetic oil (PAO formulation) vs API SN fully synthetic (highly refined group 3 oil)..

Which is better?
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post Sep 25 2014, 07:59 AM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Sep 25 2014, 07:42 AM)
API SL fully synthetic oil (PAO formulation) vs API SN fully synthetic (highly refined group 3 oil)..

Which is better?
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SN; If the PAO based stock SL is good enough, surely they can be certified for SN as well, if it isn't, then that means it just isn't good enough.
one punch man
post Sep 26 2014, 11:42 PM

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anyone have tried syntium 7000 0w-40 or 5000 0w-30? no review on the net

previously used syntium 3000 10w-40...i would prefer the lighter 5000 0w-30 but the 7000 is newer spec

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post Sep 27 2014, 09:33 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 25 2014, 07:59 AM)
SN; If the PAO based stock SL is good enough, surely they can be certified for SN as well, if it isn't, then that means it just isn't good enough.
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I asked because i noted that Honda fully synthetic oil with PAO formulation is graded SL is is selling a lot more expensive than the Honda SN fully synthetic oil. There must be something in which the SL oil is better than the SN.
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post Sep 27 2014, 09:43 AM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Sep 27 2014, 09:33 AM)
I asked because i noted that Honda fully synthetic oil with PAO formulation is graded SL is is selling a lot more expensive than the Honda SN fully synthetic oil. There must be something in which the SL oil is better than the SN.
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not always the more expensive product is better.
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post Sep 28 2014, 06:55 AM

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QUOTE(one punch man @ Sep 26 2014, 11:42 PM)
anyone have tried syntium 7000 0w-40 or 5000 0w-30? no review on the net

previously used syntium 3000 10w-40...i would prefer the lighter 5000 0w-30 but the 7000 is newer spec
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if use lighter one, fc improve or not ? and is there any side effect like engine become slow / more response ?

sorry noob here. So far I only use syntium 3000 10w-40 from sc.
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post Oct 1 2014, 11:16 AM

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i just bought shell helix hx7 10w-40 4L at RM110 to service my saga 2005 model car. i felt conned.

How much is the market price now?
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post Oct 1 2014, 01:51 PM

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QUOTE(alexkos @ Oct 1 2014, 11:16 AM)
i just bought shell helix hx7 10w-40 4L at RM110 to service my saga 2005 model car. i felt conned.

How much is the market price now?
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tesco parallel import and currently under promotion got full synthetic Shell Helix Ultra with the new pureplus technology at RM129.
normal price was 24x or 22x lol
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post Oct 1 2014, 08:21 PM

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Matrix
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...brandName=tesco
really a?
one punch man
post Oct 1 2014, 09:29 PM

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QUOTE(Cendol_Pulut90 @ Sep 28 2014, 06:55 AM)
if use lighter one, fc improve or not ? and is there any side effect like engine become slow / more response ?

sorry noob here. So far I only use syntium 3000 10w-40 from sc.
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yeah usually lighter eo result in improve fc and faster engine response.
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post Oct 1 2014, 11:31 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 14 2014, 10:49 PM)
used oil analysis, may refer to this bro:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69700867

i'm currently running on motul 300v 0w20 at the moment, will be sending mine for another analysis after run 7k km nod.gif
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BTW you sent your oil sample to us to do analysis?
How much is it and how much it cost?
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post Oct 2 2014, 12:36 AM

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QUOTE(OC4/3 @ Oct 1 2014, 11:31 PM)
BTW you sent your oil sample to us to do analysis?
How much is it and how much it cost?
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uh wut?

well the posts/links did mention the pricing numerous time but its ok no harm repeating:
usd35 for UOA, poslaju about rm120
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post Oct 2 2014, 10:22 AM

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Cool. Torco SR-1 is API SN.


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post Oct 2 2014, 12:11 PM

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QUOTE(dstl1128 @ Oct 2 2014, 10:22 AM)
yes it is despite the email exchange i had with them biggrin.gif

see, even with all the difficulties and inconvenience, costing etc, it is still important to have proper certification so that you can strengthen trust with your customers nod.gif
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post Oct 3 2014, 01:59 PM

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QUOTE(alexkos @ Oct 1 2014, 11:16 AM)
i just bought shell helix hx7 10w-40 4L at RM110 to service my saga 2005 model car. i felt conned.

How much is the market price now?
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If u want cheap oil, always keep an eye on Tesco promotion. From Mobil 1 20W50(4L), Mobil 0W40(4L), Shell Ultra Helix (5L), Total Quartz Ineo MC3 5W40(5L), all listed here are fully synthetic and mostly is API SN, price range from RM129-149 during promotion.

Those cheap oil = recycling oil is totally bullshit.
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post Oct 7 2014, 08:00 AM

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Getting my absurdly expensive 8 bottles of Motul DCTF for the Evo X. Only 280 dollars inclusive of shipping. Farkin mahal. I haven't even bought the filter yet for the transmission.

Considering draining the BMW's transmission and replacing with Redline 75W90 NS GL-5 Gear Oil as very fast shifts into certain gears seems rough and hard on the synchros. Other than that there doesn't seem to be many issues either way.
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post Oct 7 2014, 02:04 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 7 2014, 08:00 AM)
Getting my absurdly expensive 8 bottles of Motul DCTF for the Evo X. Only 280 dollars inclusive of shipping. Farkin mahal. I haven't even bought the filter yet for the transmission.

Considering draining the BMW's transmission and replacing with Redline 75W90 NS GL-5 Gear Oil as very fast shifts into certain gears seems rough and hard on the synchros. Other than that there doesn't seem to be many issues either way.
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going to be replacing my redline MTL as well... this time running without additives for a change.

happen to get them cheap on yesterday's SMART event at one Utama for RM48/quart (regular pricing ranges between rm55-65/quart)
https://www.facebook.com/1Utama/posts/10152316405381689

swept their last 4 bottles of MTL when they were closing at 8pm lol.


probably replacing the gear oil after Sepang, after more wear is induced and then 1 shot drain all of the wear/shavings
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post Oct 7 2014, 02:15 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 7 2014, 02:04 PM)
going to be replacing my redline MTL as well... this time running without additives for a change.

happen to get them cheap on yesterday's SMART event at one Utama for RM48/quart (regular pricing ranges between rm55-65/quart)
https://www.facebook.com/1Utama/posts/10152316405381689

swept their last 4 bottles of MTL when they were closing at 8pm lol.
probably replacing the gear oil after Sepang, after more wear is induced and then 1 shot drain all of the wear/shavings
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Well it is usually good practice to drain after a stressful event, so it makes good sense.

I've been reading around and it seems for DI cars, a lot of people in the know when it comes to oil chemistry swear by this stuff http://www.renewablelube.com/gasoline.html

Might just give it a try as it is said to be extremely resistant to fuel dillution.
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post Oct 7 2014, 02:20 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 7 2014, 02:15 PM)
Well it is usually good practice to drain after a stressful event, so it makes good sense.

I've been reading around and it seems for DI cars, a lot of people in the know when it comes to oil chemistry swear by this stuff http://www.renewablelube.com/gasoline.html

Might just give it a try as it is said to be extremely resistant to fuel dillution.
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the website/claims seems so shady until i see this:
http://renewablelube.com/bitog.html

i guess it can't be all that bad when there's oil analysis being done tongue.gif
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post Oct 9 2014, 02:19 AM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 7 2014, 08:00 AM)
Getting my absurdly expensive 8 bottles of Motul DCTF for the Evo X. Only 280 dollars inclusive of shipping. Farkin mahal. I haven't even bought the filter yet for the transmission.

Considering draining the BMW's transmission and replacing with Redline 75W90 NS GL-5 Gear Oil as very fast shifts into certain gears seems rough and hard on the synchros. Other than that there doesn't seem to be many issues either way.
*
Why you don't want to stick to OEM Diaqueen DCT oil??
DCTF better then Diaqueen ah??
Jacks Transmission US tested and found Diaquen the best eh

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post Oct 9 2014, 07:22 AM

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QUOTE(OC4/3 @ Oct 9 2014, 02:19 AM)
Why you don't want to stick to OEM Diaqueen DCT oil??
DCTF better then Diaqueen ah??
Jacks Transmission US tested and found Diaquen the best eh
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Because it is 50 bucks a litre. Which is somewhat unjustified for a car that is only driven 3 times a month.

The OEM Diaqueen SSTF is merely a rebadged Castrol BOT341/Transmax Dual, but it's a lot harder to find.

Plus I might be selling the X to fund a nicer car at the end of the year.
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post Oct 9 2014, 11:22 AM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 9 2014, 07:22 AM)
Because it is 50 bucks a litre. Which is somewhat unjustified for a car that is only driven 3 times a month.

The OEM Diaqueen SSTF is merely a rebadged Castrol BOT341/Transmax Dual, but it's a lot harder to find.

Plus I might be selling the X to fund a nicer car at the end of the year.
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nicer than the current bmw? shocking.gif
all my jelly lol
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post Oct 9 2014, 03:34 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 9 2014, 11:22 AM)
nicer than the current bmw?  shocking.gif
all my jelly lol
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It'll be cool. Obviously not BAC Mono cool, but still cool nonetheless.
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post Oct 9 2014, 05:31 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 9 2014, 07:22 AM)
Because it is 50 bucks a litre. Which is somewhat unjustified for a car that is only driven 3 times a month.

The OEM Diaqueen SSTF is merely a rebadged Castrol BOT341/Transmax Dual, but it's a lot harder to find.

Plus I might be selling the X to fund a nicer car at the end of the year.
*
Nicer as in Porsche?
Cayman/Boxster??
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post Oct 10 2014, 11:36 PM

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Has anyone tried ConocoPhillips EO before? Saw the 76 Super Synthetic Blend 5w30 going for RM21.50/Quart on the forum.
Tempting...
empire23
post Oct 11 2014, 07:47 AM

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QUOTE(OC4/3 @ Oct 9 2014, 05:31 PM)
Nicer as in Porsche?
Cayman/Boxster??
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Nop. Was thinking about a Cayman S with all the added goodies, but I already have a coupe.
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post Oct 11 2014, 03:20 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 11 2014, 07:47 AM)
Nop. Was thinking about a Cayman S with all the added goodies, but I already have a coupe.
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Then which Porsche??

y4ng
post Oct 12 2014, 12:36 AM

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hello all sifus!

I am driving a neo cps manual, currently using semi syn Liqui Moly

I wanna change to fully syn, looking at torco or motul...any suggestions?
grade wise, and of course, good engine protection!
thank you!
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post Oct 12 2014, 12:47 AM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:36 AM)
hello all sifus!

I am driving a neo cps manual, currently using semi syn Liqui Moly

I wanna change to fully syn, looking at torco or motul...any suggestions?
grade wise, and of course, good engine protection!
thank you!
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Check your manual, I believe someone mentioned xw30
If that's true, consider trying out 0w20

Then there's budget, for run of the mill, there's Motul h tech 100 plus. About 180 for 4 litres

Torco SR1 (i also highly recommended) is more performance oriented however they go for around 240/4 litres

There's also motul 8100 series although I haven't tried them out.
I have and is currently on their 300v and my god those double esters are smooth! Not cheap though at about 340/4 litres

If you're looking for insanely long oci, look no further than amsoil signature series (which I have included uoa on first page)
They go at about 180 to 200/4 litres
If you want some certification like api, then scale down to amsoil OE series which also guarantees damn long oci as well (iinm 15k miles instead of 25k miles compared to signature series. Yes f***ing miles not km)
Should be a bit cheaper than signature series
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post Oct 12 2014, 12:54 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 12:47 AM)
Check your manual,  I believe someone mentioned xw30
If that's true,  consider trying out 0w20

Then there's budget,  for run of the mill,  there's Motul h tech 100 plus. About 180 for 4 litres

Torco SR1 (i also highly recommended)  is more performance oriented however they go for around 240/4 litres

There's also motul 8100 series although I haven't tried them out.
I have and is currently on their 300v and my god those double esters are smooth! Not cheap though at about 340/4 litres

If you're looking for insanely long oci, look no further than amsoil signature series (which I have included uoa on first page)
They go at about 180 to 200/4 litres
If you want some certification like api,  then scale down to amsoil OE series which also guarantees damn long oci as well (iinm 15k miles instead of 25k miles compared to signature series.  Yes f***ing miles not km)
Should be a bit cheaper than signature series
*
fast reply hehe!

i am looking at Torco SR-1R 10W-40, cos my engine overhauled once (cos 1st owner sucked at maintaining), should i go for lower grade? 30s? 5W or 10W dont really make a diff right? i change at 10k when i use fully syn?

motul, used by proton's R3 team as well correct? too expensive for RM340 >.< I am looking at 200++ ranges

for amsoil, erm malaysia's proton filter kenot last that long, so using so long good meh? lazy go to mechanic as them replace oil filter nia, sure he oso tulan.
y4ng
post Oct 12 2014, 01:08 AM

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wait...
300v RM340/4L?

Can tell me where you buy?

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post Oct 12 2014, 01:34 AM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:54 AM)
fast reply hehe!

i am looking at Torco SR-1R 10W-40, cos my engine overhauled once (cos 1st owner sucked at maintaining), should i go for lower grade? 30s? 5W or 10W dont really make a diff right? i change at 10k when i use fully syn?

motul, used by proton's R3 team as well correct? too expensive for RM340 >.< I am looking at 200++ ranges

for amsoil, erm malaysia's proton filter kenot last that long, so using so long good meh? lazy go to mechanic as them replace oil filter nia, sure he oso tulan.
*
The R's aren't API SN certified though, and i doubt they'd put any more detergent/additives for to have the oil last.
it's as per advertised, for racing purposes, however there's always the SR5 or better racing oils so i'm assuming for the more budget conscious racers perhaps? lol.

i use xw20 or xw30 because in malaysia, there's no winter, and w is basically winter grade.
there are MINOR differences on the overall viscosity if you check the data specs, so generally i prefer to go a slow as possible, such as 0w20 instead of say 5w20.
personally i prefer to go as thin viscosity as possible (if manufacturer says xw30, i'll go 10 lower to xw20) depending on manufacturer. AFAIK Campros are either xw30 or xw40 specified, so xw20/xw30 is no problem.

SR1's (or ANY reputable full synthetics especially API SN certified ones) have absolutely NO issue on 10k km, i did 14k km or 16k km afaik (may refer to my previous posts or the ones i saved on first page)

200 ranges i believe the Motul 8100 series would qualify although i've never used them before so i can't personally comment/recommend.
the amsoil/torco SR1 all fall into your budget as well.

Filter don't last long? no problem! half way down the oci cycle you're free to change the oil filter! can diy or send to workshops paying rm10-20.
example: your oci is 20k km, at 10k km just replace the oil filter only, and top up any oil loss during the process smile.gif

you pay mech rm20 also you'd STILL SAVE money in the long run as you only spent 1 time engine oil.
he tulan rm 20? go other mechanics. there's plentiful of places who'd gladly accept a quick buck for a quick oil filter replacement.
worse case? DIY.

QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 01:08 AM)
wait...
300v  RM340/4L?

Can tell me where you buy?
*
hmm should be a typo, 350++
but then again i pretty much bought in bulk and the bill was way over 1k+ to get better pricing sweat.gif
y4ng
post Oct 12 2014, 12:26 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 01:34 AM)
The R's aren't API SN certified though, and i doubt they'd put any more detergent/additives for to have the oil last.
it's as per advertised, for racing purposes, however there's always the SR5 or better racing oils so i'm assuming for the more budget conscious racers perhaps? lol.

i use xw20 or xw30 because in malaysia, there's no winter, and w is basically winter grade.
there are MINOR differences on the overall viscosity if you check the data specs, so generally i prefer to go a slow as possible, such as 0w20 instead of say 5w20.
personally i prefer to go as thin viscosity as possible (if manufacturer says xw30, i'll go 10 lower to xw20) depending on manufacturer. AFAIK Campros are either xw30 or xw40 specified, so xw20/xw30 is no problem.

SR1's (or ANY reputable full synthetics especially API SN certified ones) have absolutely NO issue on 10k km, i did 14k km or 16k km afaik (may refer to my previous posts or the ones i saved on first page)

200 ranges i believe the Motul 8100 series would qualify although i've never used them before so i can't personally comment/recommend.
the amsoil/torco SR1 all fall into your budget as well.

Filter don't last long? no problem! half way down the oci cycle you're free to change the oil filter! can diy or send to workshops paying rm10-20.
example: your oci is 20k km, at 10k km just replace the oil filter only, and top up any oil loss during the process smile.gif

you pay mech rm20 also you'd STILL SAVE money in the long run as you only spent 1 time engine oil.
he tulan rm 20? go other mechanics. there's plentiful of places who'd gladly accept a quick buck for a quick oil filter replacement.
worse case? DIY.
hmm should be a typo, 350++
but then again i pretty much bought in bulk and the bill was way over 1k+ to get better pricing sweat.gif
*
Anytime u r buying 300v? Maybe gatal wanna try hehehe....can share where u buy please?

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post Oct 12 2014, 01:58 PM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:26 PM)
Anytime u r buying 300v? Maybe gatal wanna try hehehe....can share where u buy please?
*
From Zhapalang at kepong http://www.zhapalangmotorsport.com/2010/06/contact-us.html
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post Oct 12 2014, 02:41 PM

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hi all, want to ask which grade of eo is suitable for 2.4 Alphard for Malaysian weather? 5w/30 10w/30, 5w/40 or 10w/40? many thanks.
y4ng
post Oct 12 2014, 03:08 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 01:58 PM)
Thank you! Kepong quite near to where i work maybe i drop by if the price is right =) thank you fr your great advice
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post Oct 12 2014, 03:13 PM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 03:08 PM)
Thank you! Kepong quite near to where i work maybe i drop by if the price is right =) thank you fr your great advice
*
you're welcome smile.gif
y4ng
post Oct 13 2014, 12:25 AM

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yo sifus! chemlube anyone?

thinking of bulk and chemlube in my range hehehe (cheaper than sr1)
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post Oct 13 2014, 02:05 AM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 13 2014, 12:25 AM)
yo sifus! chemlube anyone?

thinking of bulk and chemlube in my range hehehe (cheaper than sr1)
*
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...Name%3Dchemlube
my only worry is that locally available/distributed chemlube are not on the "CHEMLUBE PREMIUM GOLD FULL SYNTHETIC" label unless the gold color bottle is "premium gold" unsure.gif

that and the lack of 0w20 is enough for me to say no.
That said, i have however used their gear oil on my kancil 660 MT and experience have been very positive.

i had my chemlube gear oil accidentally drained when i replace 1 side of the drive shaft and as workshop help me topped up regular gear oil, the gear shifts feels like shit instantaneously doh.gif
very hard to get into gear especially when it's cold.
since my sis is driving it, unless she's willing to fork out the money to get chemlube gear oil back, i'm not going to bother tongue.gif
y4ng
post Oct 13 2014, 08:06 AM

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Hmmm i was comparing the specs, seems more or less like sr1. Think i will try one round of sr1 before going for chemlube. Any fake torco out there? I am a bit worried to buy from LYN forummers sometimes when it comes it EO.
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post Oct 13 2014, 04:30 PM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:54 AM)
fast reply hehe!

i am looking at Torco SR-1R 10W-40, cos my engine overhauled once (cos 1st owner sucked at maintaining), should i go for lower grade? 30s? 5W or 10W dont really make a diff right? i change at 10k when i use fully syn?

motul, used by proton's R3 team as well correct? too expensive for RM340 >.< I am looking at 200++ ranges

for amsoil, erm malaysia's proton filter kenot last that long, so using so long good meh? lazy go to mechanic as them replace oil filter nia, sure he oso tulan.
*
Tried and tested Motul H Tech 100 + , honestly there is nothing to shout about where it degrades right after 4k km and engine is terribly rough after that.

Try and use Idemitsu fully synthetic 5w30, Syntium 5000 0w30, Total Quartz 9000 5w30 or Torco SR-1 5w30.

As for me even if i use fully syn oils, my OCI are always 5000km/3 months or maximum 7000km/5 months. Not anything longer than that.

Fyi, Proton oil filter is not that bad in terms of their quality. And usually thinner oil provides better overall lubrication and since you do not redline 24/7, there is no reason to use thicker oil. Just my dua cents biggrin.gif


y4ng
post Oct 13 2014, 04:47 PM

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QUOTE(peejayboy @ Oct 13 2014, 04:30 PM)
Tried and tested Motul H Tech 100 + , honestly there is nothing to shout about where it degrades right after 4k km and engine is terribly rough after that.

Try and use Idemitsu fully synthetic 5w30, Syntium 5000 0w30, Total Quartz 9000 5w30 or Torco SR-1 5w30.

As for me even if i use fully syn oils, my OCI are always 5000km/3 months or maximum 7000km/5 months. Not anything longer than that.

Fyi, Proton oil filter is not that bad in terms of their quality. And usually thinner oil provides better overall lubrication and since you do not redline 24/7, there is no reason to use thicker oil. Just my dua cents  biggrin.gif
*
hmm okies thanks! i have placed an order for sr-1 for now..

just wondering, u r using neo w r3 extractor but u sold off your 1.5 myvi for it? before i bought my neo cps i was looking at 1.5 myvi manual is it that bad?

so what oil are you using currently?






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post Oct 13 2014, 05:19 PM

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QUOTE(peejayboy @ Oct 13 2014, 04:30 PM)
Tried and tested Motul H Tech 100 + , honestly there is nothing to shout about where it degrades right after 4k km and engine is terribly rough after that.

Try and use Idemitsu fully synthetic 5w30, Syntium 5000 0w30, Total Quartz 9000 5w30 or Torco SR-1 5w30.

As for me even if i use fully syn oils, my OCI are always 5000km/3 months or maximum 7000km/5 months. Not anything longer than that.

Fyi, Proton oil filter is not that bad in terms of their quality. And usually thinner oil provides better overall lubrication and since you do not redline 24/7, there is no reason to use thicker oil. Just my dua cents  biggrin.gif
*
i do agree that the motul h tech 100 plus is nothing to shout about. (not much difference in smoothness/performance whatsoever)
however i do disagree that it degrades after 4k km as i've done OCI of 12-16k km with motul h tech 100 plus without any form of degradation whereas SR1 would lose it's "performance characteristics" around 12k-14k km (iinm, have to dig back on my old review/feedback)
no engine roughness at all, and the internals are pretty much sparkling clean/mirror shine as before. laugh.gif

fully syn going such short oci is a thing of the past bro.
i've done really crazy red lines/fuel cuts (feel free to dig my youtube videos) and yet my UOA report turns out that my amsoil 0w20 i drained out is even fresher than BRAND NEW engine oil after around 7 months and 8500km (higher calcium/TBN than other manufacturers virgin oil)

and yes, i am an advocate of thinner lubricants regardless of usage.
even most manufacturers (like honda, ford) are pushing the SAE to officialize 0w16
peejayboy
post Oct 13 2014, 06:40 PM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 13 2014, 04:47 PM)
hmm okies thanks! i have placed an order for sr-1 for now..

just wondering, u r using neo w r3 extractor but u sold off your 1.5 myvi for it? before i bought my neo cps i was looking at 1.5 myvi manual is it that bad?

so what oil are you using currently?
*
no probs! smile.gif i'm still using stock extractor tho, only change the r3 muffler and previously was driving myvi 1.5 auto as it was family car. I would say myvi has better response due to the "drive by cable" setup as compared to drive by wire. But handling and top speed, myvi no match hahah.

Now currently on syntium 5000 0w30 by proton sc so far so thumbup.gif and how about you? currently driving at or mt neo?


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post Oct 13 2014, 06:47 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 13 2014, 05:19 PM)
i do agree that the motul h tech 100 plus is nothing to shout about. (not much difference in smoothness/performance whatsoever)
however i do disagree that it degrades after 4k km as i've done OCI of 12-16k km with motul h tech 100 plus without any form of degradation whereas SR1 would lose it's "performance characteristics" around 12k-14k km (iinm, have to dig back on my old review/feedback)
no engine roughness at all, and the internals are pretty much sparkling clean/mirror shine as before. laugh.gif

fully syn going such short oci is a thing of the past bro.
i've done really crazy red lines/fuel cuts (feel free to dig my youtube videos) and yet my UOA report turns out that my amsoil 0w20 i drained out is even fresher than BRAND NEW engine oil after around 7 months and 8500km (higher calcium/TBN than other manufacturers virgin oil)

and yes, i am an advocate of thinner lubricants regardless of usage.
even most manufacturers (like honda, ford) are pushing the SAE to officialize 0w16
*
Sorry for double posting, didn't saw it earlier. Well to be frank, i've used my myvi as a lab rat before for long OCI (8k km mileage around 6 months) on fully syn oils and the outcome wasn't that great.

There's actually alot of factor to be taken into consideration such as start stop traffics, traffic jams, long idling, redlining and so on which is why for me particularly i rather be on the safe side for now. But i believe that everyone has their own way of maintaining their vehicle where there is no right or wrong icon_rolleyes.gif

As for me, oil is much cheaper as compared to spare parts/overhauling lol


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post Oct 13 2014, 08:20 PM

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QUOTE(peejayboy @ Oct 13 2014, 06:47 PM)
Sorry for double posting, didn't saw it earlier. Well to be frank, i've used my myvi as a lab rat before for long OCI (8k km mileage around 6 months) on fully syn oils and the outcome wasn't that great.

There's actually alot of factor to be taken into consideration such as start stop traffics, traffic jams, long idling, redlining and so on which is why for me particularly i rather be on the safe side for now. But i believe that everyone has their own way of maintaining their vehicle where there is no right or wrong  icon_rolleyes.gif

As for me, oil is much cheaper as compared to spare parts/overhauling lol
*
Agree with your post thumbup.gif
The only difference is that I found decent success with long /extended oci.

Feel free to look back on my older posts or even images of my iswara /Sentra engine internals that runs on long oci
y4ng
post Oct 13 2014, 09:14 PM

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QUOTE(peejayboy @ Oct 13 2014, 06:40 PM)
no probs!  smile.gif  i'm still using stock extractor tho, only change the r3 muffler and previously was driving myvi 1.5 auto as it was family car. I would say myvi has better response due to the "drive by cable" setup as compared to drive by wire. But handling and top speed, myvi no match hahah.

Now currently on syntium 5000 0w30 by proton sc so far so thumbup.gif and how about you? currently driving at or mt neo?
*
manual FTW!

thinking of changing my extractor but still dont know who to go to =\ another thread to go to

im using liqui moly semi syn 10w40s, but this friday going for torco SR-1 fully syn cos ah jib kor raised my petrol price...thinking of switching to RON97 as well.
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post Oct 13 2014, 10:47 PM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 13 2014, 09:14 PM)
manual FTW!

thinking of changing my extractor but still dont know who to go to =\ another thread to go to

im using liqui moly semi syn 10w40s, but this friday going for torco SR-1 fully syn cos ah jib kor raised my petrol price...thinking of switching to RON97 as well.
*
yeepie, another manual kaki biggrin.gif try SR-1 5w30 since your engine is overhauled already.

Extractor can go for R3/Tonnka! save up for it

Ron 97 and Ron 95 just difference of around rm15 oni now lol

This post has been edited by peejayboy: Oct 13 2014, 10:47 PM
stevenkhong
post Oct 14 2014, 06:16 PM

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hi guys, i'm newbie here, does somebody have any comment about royal purple engine oil???
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post Oct 15 2014, 02:41 PM

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QUOTE(stevenkhong @ Oct 14 2014, 06:16 PM)
hi guys, i'm newbie here, does somebody have any comment about royal purple engine oil???
*
Good oils their XPR line, I recommend them for any cast iron block engine as they've performed best on my RB25DET. Pricey but I've done 20000+ km between an oil change using RP without the car missing a beat or the turbocharger giving me any issues.

I've never used their HPS line, but I figure it wouldn't be too far off from the XPR.
y4ng
post Oct 15 2014, 04:37 PM

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Torco SR-1 vs SR-1R, any diff?
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 15 2014, 04:48 PM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 15 2014, 04:37 PM)
Torco SR-1 vs SR-1R, any diff?
*
1 is API SN certified, while the other isn't and geared more towards performance/racing oil. consider it the "budget" (still not cheap lol) racing oil as opposed to their high end SR5 etc.
supposedly, the R would have better friction modifiers although may sacrifice on other additives such as detergents and the EO may deteriorate faster than the non R

may visit their website for data specs etc.

from a quick usage (used it only once for some track events) on the SR1R on my iswara back then, it seems to deteriorate around the 10k-12k km mark instead of the 12-14k+ km mark compared to the SR1
iinm i did a 10 or 12k km OCI for that SR1R
y4ng
post Oct 15 2014, 04:57 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 15 2014, 04:48 PM)
1 is API SN certified, while the other isn't and geared more towards performance/racing oil. consider it the "budget" (still not cheap lol) racing oil as opposed to their high end SR5 etc.
supposedly, the R would have better friction modifiers although may sacrifice on other additives such as detergents and the EO may deteriorate faster than the non R

may visit their website for data specs etc.

from a quick usage (used it only once for some track events) on the SR1R on my iswara back then, it seems to deteriorate around the 10k-12k km mark instead of the 12-14k+ km mark compared to the SR1
iinm i did a 10 or 12k km OCI for that SR1R
*
hmmm thank you!!! really really fast reply huh? cos the person that wanted to sell SR-1 to me, 1st say RM57/l, promise this week can get, now say RM60/l, else next week only stock comes in...makes a bit angry

so there's another reseller, but only carries SR-1R, think i dont like it cos of the price

I might as well go for ChemLube, RM53/quart

sien sien sien rclxub.gif

TSQuazacolt
post Oct 15 2014, 04:59 PM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 15 2014, 04:57 PM)
hmmm thank you!!! really really fast reply huh? cos the person that wanted to sell SR-1 to me, 1st say RM57/l, promise this week can get, now say RM60/l, else next week only stock comes in...makes a bit angry

so there's another reseller, but only carries SR-1R, think i dont like it cos of the price

I might as well go for ChemLube, RM53/quart

sien sien sien rclxub.gif
*
local distro here also weird, sometimes SR1 and SR1R same price, sometimes R more expensive.
from US R is more expensive lol
http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/sr-1.html 2usd more expensive

OH and i just remembered why i don't bother with the R's, thinnest viscosity is xw30, i want 0w20 tongue.gif
y4ng
post Oct 15 2014, 05:17 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 15 2014, 04:59 PM)
local distro here also weird, sometimes SR1 and SR1R same price, sometimes R more expensive.
from US R is more expensive lol
http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/sr-1.html 2usd more expensive

OH and i just remembered why i don't bother with the R's, thinnest viscosity is xw30, i want 0w20 tongue.gif
*
sien, maybe i should just go for chemlube since cheaper =|
y4ng
post Oct 15 2014, 05:20 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 15 2014, 04:59 PM)
local distro here also weird, sometimes SR1 and SR1R same price, sometimes R more expensive.
from US R is more expensive lol
http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/sr-1.html 2usd more expensive

OH and i just remembered why i don't bother with the R's, thinnest viscosity is xw30, i want 0w20 tongue.gif
*
sien, maybe i should just go for chemlube since cheaper =|
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post Oct 17 2014, 03:01 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 15 2014, 03:41 PM)
Good oils their XPR line, I recommend them for any cast iron block engine as they've performed best on my RB25DET. Pricey but I've done 20000+ km between an oil change using RP without the car missing a beat or the turbocharger giving me any issues.

I've never used their HPS line, but I figure it wouldn't be too far off from the XPR.
*
Hi, newbie question, just want to start using non-OEM engine oil.

what's the difference Royal Purple SAE and Royal Purple HPS?
I was quoted RM55 per quart for SAE(5w40) and RM45 per quart for HPS(10w40)

Is SAE better than HPS? looking at the pricing. Thanks!!
PedangGila
post Oct 19 2014, 12:00 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 15 2014, 04:48 PM)
1 is API SN certified, while the other isn't and geared more towards performance/racing oil. consider it the "budget" (still not cheap lol) racing oil as opposed to their high end SR5 etc.
supposedly, the R would have better friction modifiers although may sacrifice on other additives such as detergents and the EO may deteriorate faster than the non R

may visit their website for data specs etc.

from a quick usage (used it only once for some track events) on the SR1R on my iswara back then, it seems to deteriorate around the 10k-12k km mark instead of the 12-14k+ km mark compared to the SR1
iinm i did a 10 or 12k km OCI for that SR1R
*
Now I was about to ask if anyone dare to do 15k km oci with sr1r but you already give a lead. I'll be using this next month for my Myvi ezi 1.3. Rm280 for an oil vs rm90 for semi sm.
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post Oct 19 2014, 12:31 AM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Oct 19 2014, 12:00 AM)
Now I was about to ask if anyone dare to do 15k km oci with sr1r but you already give a lead. I'll be using this next month for my Myvi ezi 1.3. Rm280 for an oil  vs rm90 for semi sm.
*
personally i'd go with the non R for extended OCI and even the non R's it starts to deteriorate around 12 or 14k km.
the TBN is just not strong enough and Torco has never mentioned/marketed extended OCI whatsoever.

another advise is that it's advisable to change your oil filter half way of your extended oci, say 7.5k km if you're trying out 15k km smile.gif

rm280 is a bit overpriced though, see if you can find cheaper alternatives. (iinm they go for ~65/liter, and afaik myvi only needs 3.x liters)
PedangGila
post Oct 19 2014, 01:03 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 19 2014, 12:31 AM)
personally i'd go with the non R for extended OCI and even the non R's it starts to deteriorate around 12 or 14k km.
the TBN is just not strong enough and Torco has never mentioned/marketed extended OCI whatsoever.

another advise is that it's advisable to change your oil filter half way of your extended oci, say 7.5k km if you're trying out 15k km smile.gif

rm280 is a bit overpriced though, see if you can find cheaper alternatives. (iinm they go for ~65/liter, and afaik myvi only needs 3.x liters)
*
It's quoted rm68 per bottle but yea since it needs another half lit I had to buy 4 bottles. Rounded it's about 280. I'm here in kelantan so I figure the cost will be the same if not more if I order from outside state. Just testing this oil for once only I think. Yea hopefully the shop have the non R version 10w30. Thanks for the advice.
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post Oct 19 2014, 01:07 AM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Oct 19 2014, 01:03 AM)
It's quoted rm68 per bottle but yea since it needs another half lit I had to buy 4 bottles. Rounded it's about 280. I'm here in kelantan so I figure the cost will be the same if not more if I order from outside state. Just testing this oil for once only I think. Yea hopefully the shop have the non R version 10w30. Thanks for the advice.
*
ah Kelantan.
yeah the postage for heavier liquids would be a bummer, but do check out LYN automotive garage and see if you can get a good deal.

do give a try on the non R and most importantly it has 0w20 which i think can be suitable for myvi as AFAIK manufacturer specifies xw30 smile.gif
PedangGila
post Oct 19 2014, 08:22 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 19 2014, 01:07 AM)
ah Kelantan.
yeah the postage for heavier liquids would be a bummer, but do check out LYN automotive garage and see if you can get a good deal.

do give a try on the non R and most importantly it has 0w20 which i think can be suitable for myvi as AFAIK manufacturer specifies xw30 smile.gif
*
I'm used to revving to max rpm, didn't bother to use OD and will maintain long range 140kmh if condition allowed. Maybe w20 oil can keep up but already change from sr1r to sr1 so cannot demand anymore from the shop.
chemistry
post Oct 20 2014, 12:24 AM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Oct 19 2014, 08:22 AM)
I'm used to revving to max rpm, didn't bother to use OD and will maintain long range 140kmh if condition allowed. Maybe w20 oil can keep up but already change from sr1r to sr1 so cannot demand anymore from the shop.
*
Attached Image
Anybody tried Addinol 0W20?
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 20 2014, 01:19 AM

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QUOTE(chemistry @ Oct 20 2014, 12:24 AM)
Anybody tried Addinol 0W20?
*
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...yName%3Daddinol

only got diesel certified
chemistry
post Oct 20 2014, 10:35 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 20 2014, 01:19 AM)
Mak aih...diesel only ka...nnt void warranty kete aku
Thayaalan 14
post Oct 21 2014, 07:02 PM

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Hi, newbie here. Been using OEM engine oil for the previous cars but planning to change now. Using the new nissan sylphy, sifus any recommendations on how to pick whats best for the car? TQ
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 21 2014, 08:44 PM

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QUOTE(Thayaalan 14 @ Oct 21 2014, 07:02 PM)
Hi, newbie here. Been using OEM engine oil for the previous cars but planning to change now. Using the new nissan sylphy, sifus any recommendations on how to pick whats best for the car? TQ
*
Please read the information on first page
izso
post Oct 23 2014, 03:58 PM

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QUOTE(Thayaalan 14 @ Oct 21 2014, 07:02 PM)
Hi, newbie here. Been using OEM engine oil for the previous cars but planning to change now. Using the new nissan sylphy, sifus any recommendations on how to pick whats best for the car? TQ
*
Use any 5W30 oil will be good for you. Got budget stick with fully synthetic oils like OEM engine oil.
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post Oct 23 2014, 04:01 PM

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QUOTE(izso @ Oct 23 2014, 03:58 PM)
Use any 5W30 oil will be good for you. Got budget stick with fully synthetic oils like OEM engine oil.
*
If Nissan is like any modern manufacturer, it should be on 0w20 already.

=edit=
for my curiosity anyways:
http://www.nissan.co.th/~/media/Files/Niss...ulsar_OM_EN.pdf
Thailand says 10w30 (HAHAOHWOW)

https://owners.nissanusa.com/content/techpu...wner-manual.pdf
USA says 0w20

both for the same MRA8DE (i believe is the correct engine model for 1.8 new Sylphy ya?) engine.

ok lets ask Japan, the guys who made the car:
http://153.127.244.43/pdf/2013-05-04/94596.pdf
0w20 nod.gif

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Oct 23 2014, 04:45 PM
izso
post Oct 24 2014, 08:58 AM

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0W20 is for the climate there. Local Tancheong recommends 5W30
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post Oct 24 2014, 02:20 PM

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QUOTE(izso @ Oct 24 2014, 08:58 AM)
0W20 is for the climate there. Local Tancheong recommends 5W30
*
from the temperature/viscosity guide/charts (within the Japanese manual), it says 0w20 can be used for climates having ambient temperatures up to 40celsius (and of course -40c)
http://www.worldweatheronline.com/Kuala-Lu...-Lumpur/MY.aspx
still well within 40c biggrin.gif

unless you have exception usage/circumstances (eg: racing/track car), climate should no longer be the determining factor of viscosities and in almost all situation especially when dealing with modern day engine oil, one should be aiming for the lowest possible viscosity with high viscosity index (between 160-180 give/take) and aim for EOs that are API SN certified (which you may query publicly so you won't be fooled by false claims which are notorious from local EO) as recommended by manufacturers.

of course, that is not to say Tan Chong is wrong either, they may probably be still using dated EO (old API or even no API certification), or even mineral/semi synthetic instead of fully synthetics, or just merely want to standardize service schedules (eg: semi synthetic also 10k km, good luck on semis maintaining stable viscosity past 5-6k km laugh.gif ) so they'd rather play it safe and go with the old fashion recommendations (proton SC still uses xw40 or even xw50 with their silly synthium 1000! the irony is that most proton manuals already start to specify xw30!) such as xw30, or the old 5k km/3 months when most modern day manufacturer, shortest interval is also 10k km/6months!

i find it even surprising when even the old 4G15 engine from mitsubishi had it's service manual specifying xw30 instead of the xw50 on the sticker within the car's engine bay.
this one however can't be helped as engine oil in the early 1990's aren't as good as it is today, nor good engine oils are easily accessible than it is today.

=edit on typo/added clarification=

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Oct 24 2014, 02:23 PM
PedangGila
post Oct 25 2014, 02:01 PM

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Finally, got that sr1r into my myvi. Rm65 per bottle and works engineering oil filter. Damn smooth feeling but yea new p2 oil also felt like this an after 3k km so so. Guys at the shop really looked puzzled seeing a stock auto myvi using a racing oil. Lol. Kinda worried tho to do 15kkm oci with this 1r. Kamikaze!
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post Oct 25 2014, 03:06 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Oct 25 2014, 02:01 PM)
Finally, got that sr1r into my myvi. Rm65 per bottle and works engineering oil filter. Damn smooth feeling but yea new p2 oil also felt like this an after 3k km so so. Guys at the shop really looked puzzled seeing a stock auto myvi using a racing oil. Lol. Kinda worried tho to do 15kkm oci with this 1r. Kamikaze!
*
i highly wouldn't recommend, however if you're curious and especially serious to find out, consider doing an UOA wink.gif
PedangGila
post Oct 25 2014, 07:39 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 25 2014, 03:06 PM)
i highly wouldn't recommend, however if you're curious and especially serious to find out, consider doing an UOA wink.gif
*
Gonna be time consuming and quite expensive as i saw one quoted at rm250. Id rather use that for anothe oil change. Will stick as far as 12k then change and yea 6k filter change. Too risky gambling for another 3k.
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post Oct 25 2014, 07:43 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Oct 25 2014, 07:39 PM)
Gonna be time consuming and quite expensive as i saw one quoted at rm250. Id rather use that for anothe oil change. Will stick as far as 12k then change and yea 6k filter change. Too risky gambling for another 3k.
*
usd 25, or 35 if you want TBN as well, poslaju even more expensive, around rm120
if can share postage, then it can be a ton cheaper.
PedangGila
post Oct 25 2014, 10:29 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 25 2014, 07:43 PM)
usd 25, or 35 if you want TBN as well, poslaju even more expensive, around rm120
if can share postage, then it can be a ton cheaper.
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Oversea? are you talking about Blackstone?

add: come to think about it, the whole world seems like didnt notice this oil or google fail to catalog uoa for sr-1r. Prolly I can make money sharing result. LMAO

This post has been edited by PedangGila: Oct 25 2014, 11:08 PM
Xu3r
post Oct 26 2014, 01:04 AM

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anyone know any good ones for diesel ?
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 26 2014, 03:12 AM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Oct 25 2014, 10:29 PM)
Oversea? are you talking about Blackstone?

add: come to think about it, the whole world seems like didnt notice this oil or google fail to catalog uoa for sr-1r. Prolly I can make money sharing result. LMAO
*
yeah i did mine at blackstone after giving up on local options lol

and hey who knows if you can really make money from uoa results lol.
my personal opinion is to share so everyone can benefit as a whole though nod.gif
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post Oct 26 2014, 03:13 AM

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QUOTE(Xu3r @ Oct 26 2014, 01:04 AM)
anyone know any good ones for diesel ?
*
sorry bro not familiar with diesel engines

but in general, guides/info from first page, and stick with api certified EO from reputable manufacturers smile.gif
royalpurple86
post Oct 26 2014, 11:29 AM

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QUOTE(Xu3r @ Oct 26 2014, 02:04 AM)
anyone know any good ones for diesel ?
*
Hi, looking the HDEO Heavy Duty Engine Oil, CH-4/CI-4/CJ-4 SL/SM/SN smile.gif
PedangGila
post Oct 26 2014, 10:03 PM

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What about this company for uoa? The report from seems encouraging minus the price.
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post Oct 26 2014, 10:29 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Oct 26 2014, 10:03 PM)
What about this company for uoa? The report from seems encouraging minus the price.
*
what is the pricing you got from them?

i emailed them back in 7th May 2014 to oiltest@alsglobal.com.my and no replies at all.
i see that they are having different email on
http://www.alsglobal.com.my/content.php?id=11&lang=1
&
http://www.alsglobal.com.my/content.php?id=3&lang=1

maybe can consider if the pricing is cheaper than blackstone because if it's same/more expensive, i only need to combine shipping and i get analysis from renowned USA lab.
PedangGila
post Oct 26 2014, 10:59 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 26 2014, 10:29 PM)
what is the pricing you got from them?

i emailed them back in 7th May 2014 to oiltest@alsglobal.com.my and no replies at all.
i see that they are having different email on
http://www.alsglobal.com.my/content.php?id=11&lang=1
&
http://www.alsglobal.com.my/content.php?id=3&lang=1

maybe can consider if the pricing is cheaper than blackstone because if it's same/more expensive, i only need to combine shipping and i get analysis from renowned USA lab.
*
Havent contact them yet. Gonna be at least 4 month for me to cover 10k. Eh how much for the blackstone kit to reach here?
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 26 2014, 11:08 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Oct 26 2014, 10:59 PM)
Havent contact them yet. Gonna be at least 4 month for me to cover 10k. Eh how much for the blackstone kit to reach here?
*
refer my previous post(s)
PedangGila
post Oct 26 2014, 11:13 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 26 2014, 11:08 PM)
refer my previous post(s)
*
One way or return?

I sent them ALS an email asking if they offer such service and price. We'll see if they reply.

wearcheck@alsmalaysia.com

This post has been edited by PedangGila: Oct 26 2014, 11:31 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 27 2014, 12:06 AM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Oct 26 2014, 11:13 PM)
One way or return?

I sent them ALS an email asking if they offer such service and price. We'll see if they reply.

wearcheck@alsmalaysia.com
*
you want return trip for what? results can be emailed
PedangGila
post Oct 27 2014, 07:52 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 27 2014, 12:06 AM)
you want return trip for what? results can be emailed
*
I mean is the bottle comes from us and then return with oil?
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 27 2014, 09:17 AM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Oct 27 2014, 07:52 AM)
I mean is the bottle comes from us and then return with oil?
*
the bottle sent to you foc (foc postage as well)
PedangGila
post Oct 27 2014, 02:09 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 27 2014, 09:17 AM)
the bottle sent to you foc (foc postage as well)
*
Ah.

The email to als cant be delivered because domain is invalid. No credit to call. Even the site last maintenance is in 2009. Probably a dead end.

About that kit, you use direct malaysia address or hop through a gateway as in comgateway, using US address redicrect?
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 27 2014, 02:15 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Oct 27 2014, 02:09 PM)
Ah.

The email to als cant be delivered because domain is invalid. No credit to call. Even the site last maintenance is in 2009. Probably a dead end.

About that kit, you use direct malaysia address or hop through a gateway as in comgateway, using US address redicrect?
*
Direct Malaysia address, they use cheap postage (obviously lol) so no tracking and it could take a while

And considering this, the lab earning is very minimal lol
PedangGila
post Oct 28 2014, 08:37 PM

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I have sent kit request to blackstone and have yet to receive confirmation about it from them. As for the oil I think it'll take at least 3 months or so to reach 10k, if not more. Probably I'll stop at 10k and sampled it. Wanna share the postage with me aa Quaz?
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post Oct 28 2014, 11:05 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Oct 28 2014, 08:37 PM)
I have sent kit request to blackstone and have yet to receive confirmation about it from them. As for the oil I think it'll take at least 3 months or so to reach 10k, if not more. Probably I'll stop at 10k and sampled it. Wanna share the postage with me aa Quaz?
*
i also got 5k km to go which i estimate around 2-3 months time.
we can further discuss about this as our mileage approaches to oci.

in fact i already have 1 other guy to tumpang along, i'm fairly certain we can get it down much cheaper.
rates are ~120 including fee/tax etc
http://www.poslaju.com.my/services.aspx

so in case we need the extra rm20 for next 500gm, let's take it rm140+ or so... /3 also ~rm46-47
his sample is already ready just waiting on me (and you if you're in)
PedangGila
post Nov 8 2014, 01:35 PM

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It's here.

Attached Image

Oil milage now is over 1k km in like 13 days so roughly 2k km per month and yea im looking at 5 months, at least, till the oil is done. If you cant wait what long yea i understand.

And i just got the news of my transfer to a place closer to home, just 10 minutes, which mean minus 1k km a month. Wew a long wait.

This post has been edited by PedangGila: Nov 8 2014, 02:05 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 9 2014, 12:07 AM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Nov 8 2014, 01:35 PM)

*
nice.

i still got 4k km+ in maybe 3-4 months time, don't think can ship along with yours sad.gif
consider getting some of your friends or have something else like transmission oil to ship along tongue.gif
PedangGila
post Nov 12 2014, 10:35 AM

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Peeps at bob's really did 20k km oci mobil 1 ep. Tons of 15k km uoa too.
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 12 2014, 11:36 AM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Nov 12 2014, 10:35 AM)
Peeps at bob's really did 20k km oci mobil 1 ep. Tons of 15k km uoa too.
*
bear in mind our weather and traffic jams.
Your engine is still running with mileage not clocking when you're stuck in standstill jams.

UOA is the safest way to determine how much longer OCI you can push without harming the engine nod.gif
PedangGila
post Nov 12 2014, 12:43 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 12 2014, 11:36 AM)
bear in mind our weather and traffic jams.
Your engine is still running with mileage not clocking when you're stuck in standstill jams.

UOA is the safest way to determine how much longer OCI you can push without harming the engine nod.gif
*
It's not everyday i have to deal with traffic jam. The route to my workplace has only 3 traffic lights along 130km stretch. Now transfered to a new place no need to drive unless it's rainy or need to go outstation. Luckily havent ordered the sr1 by the dozen or else i will pour it into my honda hurricane.

Too bad though we dont have local uoa lab or els i will send each oil change.

Eh which brand and spec you use now? Torco so mahal gila i might consider m1ep.

This post has been edited by PedangGila: Nov 12 2014, 12:48 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 12 2014, 01:20 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Nov 12 2014, 12:43 PM)
Eh which brand and spec  you use now? Torco so mahal gila i might consider m1ep.
*
Motul 300v 0w20
PedangGila
post Nov 12 2014, 03:02 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 12 2014, 01:20 PM)
Motul 300v 0w20
*
$200/2l?
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 12 2014, 03:12 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Nov 12 2014, 03:02 PM)
$200/2l?
*
~RM170-180 ish per 2l, i need 4l so x2 = 340-360/4l
PedangGila
post Nov 12 2014, 03:22 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 12 2014, 03:12 PM)
~RM170-180 ish per 2l, i need 4l so x2 = 340-360/4l
*
Lebih kurang la tu. Bukan nak racing pun tp mmg bes la fullyn syn ni.
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post Nov 12 2014, 03:23 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Nov 12 2014, 03:22 PM)
Lebih kurang la tu. Bukan nak racing pun tp mmg bes la fullyn syn ni.
*
mmg best lo. smells nice also, like perfume.
izso
post Nov 12 2014, 04:05 PM

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I'm wondering how the sample oil is affected when shipped and stored that long in unknown environments. Cold if air flown, then ambient temperature of the receiving country and there's humidity and possibly rough handling? etc.

Is there some sort of protective box or wrapping that comes with the UOA test kit?
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 12 2014, 06:03 PM

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QUOTE(izso @ Nov 12 2014, 04:05 PM)
I'm wondering how the sample oil is affected when shipped and stored that long in unknown environments. Cold if air flown, then ambient temperature of the receiving country and there's humidity and possibly rough handling? etc.

Is there some sort of protective box or wrapping that comes with the UOA test kit?
*
modern engine oil are designed (remember the wintergrade viscosity?) to withstand extreme cold temperatures (say, -40c) and not to mention shipping only took a mere few days to reach their labs and got it analyzed.

During the journey the sample is completely sealed with multiple "layers" of containers so that leaks (and likewise, moisture/contaminants getting in) do not happen creating a mess for the postal workers.

refer to mine and bro PedangGila posted pictures of test/sample kits with included instructions.
i personally also wrapped the inner container with pvc tape (which blackstone labs also recommend) to further seal it.
izso
post Nov 13 2014, 07:30 AM

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I see. So it's "safe" from moisture and humidity then?
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 13 2014, 11:26 AM

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QUOTE(izso @ Nov 13 2014, 07:30 AM)
I see. So it's "safe" from moisture and humidity then?
*
yes.

and do consider using the reply function or the tagging function so people can get notification.
izso
post Nov 13 2014, 11:41 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 13 2014, 11:26 AM)
yes.

and do consider using the reply function or the tagging function so people can get notification.
*
Are you sure that's even necessary? You're permanently camped on LY anyway whistling.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 13 2014, 11:43 AM

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QUOTE(izso @ Nov 13 2014, 11:41 AM)
Are you sure that's even necessary? You're permanently camped on LY anyway  whistling.gif
*
not really laugh.gif
getting busier at work and maybe changing job soon.

was just an advice in general (which may or may not apply to me) btw
PedangGila
post Nov 13 2014, 09:29 PM

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There's no notification thru mobile site version tho.
iksern
post Nov 17 2014, 04:02 PM

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Hey guys, this may be answered, but......

Let's say we are comparing both EO are the same.

Which viscosity would you go for with our 1Malaysia climate? 5w30 or 0w40?

xw30 (be it 5W, 10W, etc) should be thinner than the 0w40, right?
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 17 2014, 05:03 PM

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QUOTE(iksern @ Nov 17 2014, 04:02 PM)
Hey guys, this may be answered, but......

Let's say we are comparing both EO are the same.

Which viscosity would you go for with our 1Malaysia climate? 5w30 or 0w40?

xw30 (be it 5W, 10W, etc) should be thinner than the 0w40, right?
*
as low as possible specified by your engine manufacturer specifications.
personally i will got -10 viscosity over manufacturer specifications.

in other words, as hot as our Malaysian weather is, we don't have constant 40 Celsius ambient temperatures which warrants thicker viscosity.
and yes xw30 is thinner than xw40.
i run 0w20 on my inspira and 0w30 on my iswara/kancil/sentra

for further information, please spend time reading the information on first page.
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 19 2014, 06:43 PM

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something to read on in regards to WS2 additives:
pdf click

thanks to forumer nicotine for sharing thumbup.gif
pillage2001
post Nov 21 2014, 04:04 PM

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Any idea who makes the 0w20 oil for honda??? They insist on using their own oil now during service.......
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post Nov 22 2014, 10:44 AM

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QUOTE(pillage2001 @ Nov 21 2014, 04:04 PM)
Any idea who makes the 0w20 oil for honda??? They insist on using their own oil now during service.......
*
Blended by Idemitsu.. Honda have just updated their range of engine oil to meet the latest API SN standard. Thus you can have a peace of mind using their oil.

I have a question though.. I noticed their new SN0W30 oil are blended with alipathic hydroncarbon instead of the polyalphaolefin previously used in their SL fully synthetic oil. Any oil guru can enlighten me alipathic hydrocarbon & is it any good?
PedangGila
post Nov 23 2014, 01:09 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 19 2014, 06:43 PM)
something to read on in regards to WS2 additives:
pdf click

thanks to forumer nicotine for sharing thumbup.gif
*
I just read the conclusion but after missin the page and scrolled through all 100 pages. So it's not recommended this nano additive
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 23 2014, 04:00 AM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Nov 23 2014, 01:09 AM)
I just read the conclusion but after missin the page and scrolled through all 100 pages. So it's not recommended this nano additive
*
the minor + that it *may* have (which is very minimal), is outweighed by the potential corrosion that may come with it.

so yeah with the cons outweigh the pro, it seems not worth it.
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 23 2014, 04:08 AM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Nov 22 2014, 10:44 AM)
Blended by Idemitsu.. Honda have just updated their range of engine oil to meet the latest API SN standard. Thus you can have a peace of mind using their oil.

I have a question though.. I noticed their new SN0W30 oil are blended with alipathic hydroncarbon instead of the polyalphaolefin previously used in their SL fully synthetic oil. Any oil guru can enlighten me alipathic hydrocarbon & is it any good?
*
It seems like it's base stock got downgraded from group 4 to group 3 (if it's generally hydrocarbon/hydrocracked petroleum base stocks)

however:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lubricant#Base_oil_groups
QUOTE
Lubricants for internal combustion engines contain additives to reduce oxidation and improve lubrication. The main constituent of such lubricant product is called the base oil, base stock. While it is advantageous to have a high-grade base oil in a lubricant, proper selection of the lubricant additives is equally as important. Thus some poorly selected formulation of PAO lubricant may not last as long as more expensive formulation of Group III+ lubricant.


so personally i wouldn't be too worried about it.
pillage2001
post Nov 23 2014, 05:17 PM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Nov 22 2014, 10:44 AM)
Blended by Idemitsu.. Honda have just updated their range of engine oil to meet the latest API SN standard. Thus you can have a peace of mind using their oil.

I have a question though.. I noticed their new SN0W30 oil are blended with alipathic hydroncarbon instead of the polyalphaolefin previously used in their SL fully synthetic oil. Any oil guru can enlighten me alipathic hydrocarbon & is it any good?
*
Thought it was by Idemitsu. I would want to use their oil but they recommend a OCI of 8k for the 0w20....which I think is ridiculous if it's a fully synthetic oil. Am currently running on Mobil 1, just not sure how it would be with the Honda oil....maybe I should give it a go once......
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post Nov 24 2014, 08:15 PM

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QUOTE(pillage2001 @ Nov 23 2014, 05:17 PM)
Thought it was by Idemitsu. I would want to use their oil but they recommend a OCI of 8k for the 0w20....which I think is ridiculous if it's a fully synthetic oil. Am currently running on Mobil 1, just not sure how it would be with the Honda oil....maybe I should give it a go once......
*
To be honest, I personally change my engine oil at 8k even though I use the more expensive 0W30 fully synthetic. If you google around, most of us are driving under severe driving conditions with lots of start and go traffic and hot weather. Recommended OCI is 10k under normal driving conditions. So I think 8k OCI is quite ok.

What car are you driving bro?
efaceninja
post Nov 24 2014, 08:57 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 19 2014, 06:43 PM)
something to read on in regards to WS2 additives:
pdf click

thanks to forumer nicotine for sharing thumbup.gif
*
doh.gif doh.gif doh.gif doh.gif doh.gif doh.gif doh.gif so most of the aftermarket additive is no good? so better just stick to those EO with confirmed API certifications? for example, LiquiMoly don't have API right? i'm still using the one with MOS2, which, MOS2 is also sold as an additive...

btw, bro Quazacolt, since you guys are into EO sampling, have you thought of using an oil suction device, suck out a bit of oil through the dip stick hole, maybe 50-100ml, every 1,000km, so you can have oil sample at different stages?
user posted image
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 24 2014, 09:03 PM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Nov 24 2014, 08:57 PM)
doh.gif  doh.gif  doh.gif  doh.gif  doh.gif  doh.gif  doh.gif  so most of the aftermarket additive is no good?  so better just stick to those EO with confirmed API certifications? for example, LiquiMoly don't have API right?  i'm still using the one with MOS2, which, MOS2 is also sold as an additive...

btw, bro Quazacolt, since you guys are into EO sampling, have you thought of using an oil suction device, suck out a bit of oil through the dip stick hole, maybe 50-100ml, every 1,000km, so you can have oil sample at different stages?
user posted image
*
for what? different stages and keep sending to USA?

and i thought people already call me excessive/crazy for actually doing UOA in the first place.
izso
post Nov 25 2014, 07:53 AM

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You ARE crazy.
pillage2001
post Nov 25 2014, 08:12 AM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Nov 24 2014, 08:15 PM)
To be honest, I personally change my engine oil at 8k even though I use the more expensive 0W30 fully synthetic. If you google around, most of us are driving under severe driving conditions with lots of start and go traffic and hot weather. Recommended OCI is 10k under normal driving conditions. So I think 8k OCI is quite ok.

What car are you driving bro?
*
Am driving an Accord, clocked 200k km as of now....... So far, 10k km works okie with Mobil1. Most of my mileage are from highway anyway so it should be pretty okie.
SUSMatrix
post Nov 26 2014, 09:27 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 24 2014, 09:03 PM)
for what? different stages and keep sending to USA?

and i thought people already call me excessive/crazy for actually doing UOA in the first place.
*
We need more crazees like you for the benefit of the community.

You will forever be immortalized in the F&F Hall of Crazees.

thumbup.gif

Btw, just watch a Mobil 1 ad for the Extended Performance oil on Huluplus yesterday....wah...so proud i am using same oil...hahaha.

TSQuazacolt
post Nov 26 2014, 11:42 AM

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QUOTE(Matrix @ Nov 26 2014, 09:27 AM)
Btw, just watch a Mobil 1 ad for the Extended Performance oil on Huluplus yesterday....wah...so proud i am using same oil...hahaha.
*
this?


15k miles is NORMAL laugh.gif
SUSMatrix
post Nov 26 2014, 11:45 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 26 2014, 11:42 AM)
this?


15k miles is NORMAL  laugh.gif
*
Nope. It shows some people driving in Snow wan.

15k miles=25K km...

I drive 2 years also dun have....so i change oil 2 years later?? laugh.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 26 2014, 11:58 AM

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QUOTE(Matrix @ Nov 26 2014, 11:45 AM)
Nope. It shows some people driving in Snow wan.

15k miles=25K km...

I drive 2 years also dun have....so i change oil 2 years later??  laugh.gif
*
or 1 year whichever first nod.gif
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/moto...etic-motor-oil/
QUOTE
SERVICE LIFE
AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for extended drain intervals in unmodified(1), mechanically sound(2) gasoline-fueled vehicles as follows:

Normal Service(3) – Up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
Severe Service(4) – Up to 15,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
In all non-gasoline-fueled vehicle applications, extend the oil change interval according to oil analysis or follow the OEM* drain interval.


one year oil change once? quite cheap maintenance laugh.gif

btw compared to amsoil:
user posted image

a bit weak imho.
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 26 2014, 12:07 PM

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SUSMatrix
post Nov 26 2014, 12:15 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 26 2014, 11:58 AM)
or 1 year whichever first nod.gif
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/moto...etic-motor-oil/
one year oil change once? quite cheap maintenance laugh.gif

btw compared to amsoil:
user posted image

a bit weak imho.
*
haha, ya, change oil 1 year once ok liao...tongue.gif

But amsoil very expensive right? RM 3xx....the Mobil 1 only RM 190 for 5 bottles of 9xx ml.

Oh, the ad i saw on HULU is the first video. nod.gif

This post has been edited by Matrix: Nov 26 2014, 12:16 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 26 2014, 12:20 PM

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QUOTE(Matrix @ Nov 26 2014, 12:15 PM)
haha, ya, change oil 1 year once ok liao...tongue.gif

But amsoil very expensive right? RM 3xx....the Mobil 1 only RM 190 for 5 bottles of 9xx ml.

Oh, the ad i saw on HULU is the first video. nod.gif
*
45-50 ish per 946ml, i only buy 4 bottles.
no need 5 bottles.

not really as expensive as 3xx even if you buy 5 bottles.
that's why i already told you last time, you sendiri think too much.
SUSMatrix
post Nov 26 2014, 12:44 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 26 2014, 12:20 PM)
45-50 ish per 946ml, i only buy 4 bottles.
no need 5 bottles.

not really as expensive as 3xx even if you buy 5 bottles.
that's why i already told you last time, you sendiri think too much.
*
haha...but they fill my car with 4.5 bottles wor. hmm.gif

Anyway, i am too lazy or busy go far away to buy engine oil....the online seller came near my place to COD. Gooding.

rclxms.gif

btw, one bottle Amsoil, about RM65 right? Or price is lower at zhapalang there?
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 26 2014, 01:17 PM

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QUOTE(Matrix @ Nov 26 2014, 12:44 PM)
haha...but they fill my car with 4.5 bottles wor. hmm.gif

Anyway, i am too lazy or busy go far away to buy engine oil....the online seller came near my place to COD. Gooding.

rclxms.gif

btw, one bottle Amsoil, about RM65 right? Or price is lower at zhapalang there?
*
You quoted my post without reading it?
Rudd
post Nov 26 2014, 06:01 PM

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for myvi 1.3 manual,
may i know recommended EO, below rm100?

as I'm a student sweat.gif

been using petronas s800, almost 9k already icon_question.gif icon_question.gif icon_question.gif
PedangGila
post Nov 27 2014, 09:09 AM

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QUOTE(Rudd @ Nov 26 2014, 06:01 PM)
for myvi 1.3 manual,
may i know recommended EO, below rm100?

as I'm a student  sweat.gif

been using petronas s800, almost 9k already  icon_question.gif  icon_question.gif  icon_question.gif
*
Well, i've been using p2 oil (both 5k nd 10k oil) until the last oil change. I didnt find anything wrong eventhough they're not the best option. The reason is (at least for me) that there's no better solution for under rm100 and if p2 sc is trying to con me by giving a bad oil, I'll be happy to claim a new engine.

Yea i owned and abused a 1.3 ezi 2008 fully service at p2 sc.

This post has been edited by PedangGila: Nov 27 2014, 09:16 AM
mak yat enterprise
post Nov 27 2014, 03:03 PM

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Hye everyone,

If you want 15000km oil engine please visit this site

http://www.freerosaidyadvice.com/minyak-en...u-buatan-muslim

This post has been edited by mak yat enterprise: Nov 27 2014, 03:05 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 27 2014, 03:17 PM

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QUOTE(mak yat enterprise @ Nov 27 2014, 03:03 PM)
Hye everyone,

If you want 15000km oil engine please visit this site
*
anyone who visits this con9lan7firm regret.

show me your API certification first.
CoffeeDude
post Nov 27 2014, 05:11 PM

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Quazacolt,

Do you know where to get Low SAPS full syn engine oil in Malaysia?
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 27 2014, 05:27 PM

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QUOTE(CoffeeDude @ Nov 27 2014, 05:11 PM)
Quazacolt,

Do you know where to get Low SAPS full syn engine oil in Malaysia?
*
diesel?
regardless on diesel/petroleum, just get the latest API specification certified engine oil.

please refer first page for info.
CoffeeDude
post Nov 27 2014, 05:30 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 27 2014, 05:27 PM)
diesel?
regardless on diesel/petroleum, just get the latest API specification certified engine oil.

please refer first page for info.
*
For Prince turbo engine 156THP.
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 27 2014, 05:35 PM

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QUOTE(CoffeeDude @ Nov 27 2014, 05:30 PM)
For Prince turbo engine 156THP.
*
any API SN engine according to your manufacturer recommended viscosity/ambient temperature viscosity ranges.
if pug is as sloppy as most manufacturer, they'd put some really stupid/dated rating like API SG, which isn't exactly low SAPS also.
ZeroSP
post Nov 27 2014, 07:18 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 27 2014, 05:35 PM)
any API SN engine according to your manufacturer recommended viscosity/ambient temperature viscosity ranges.
if pug is as sloppy as most manufacturer, they'd put some really stupid/dated rating like API SG, which isn't exactly low SAPS also.
*
You see those people bashing new Honda EO without backing. Good or not good, at least Honda has been pushing 0W-20 EO for long unlike the others.
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 27 2014, 07:21 PM

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QUOTE(ZeroSP @ Nov 27 2014, 07:18 PM)
You see those people bashing new Honda EO without backing. Good or not good, at least Honda has been pushing 0W-20 EO for long unlike the others.
*
Honda japan/USA no prob... Honda Malaysia...
http://paultan.org/2014/11/27/honda-malays...ew-engine-oils/

hopefully someone can clarify la laugh.gif
Rudd
post Nov 27 2014, 09:48 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Nov 27 2014, 09:09 AM)
Well, i've been using p2 oil (both 5k nd 10k oil) until the last oil change. I didnt find anything wrong eventhough they're not the best option. The reason is (at least for me) that there's no better solution for under rm100 and if p2 sc is trying to con me by giving a bad oil, I'll be happy to claim a new engine.

Yea i owned and abused a 1.3 ezi 2008 fully service at p2 sc.
*
what is p2 oil? sweat.gif
PedangGila
post Nov 27 2014, 09:58 PM

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QUOTE(Rudd @ Nov 27 2014, 09:48 PM)
what is p2 oil?  sweat.gif
*
Standard Perodua EO (White or silver bottle API SL for 5k km oil change and Gold bottle API SM for 10kkm). API SM Semi Synthetic RM86 per 4L.

This post has been edited by PedangGila: Nov 27 2014, 09:59 PM
Rudd
post Nov 27 2014, 11:06 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Nov 27 2014, 09:58 PM)
Standard Perodua EO (White or silver bottle API SL for 5k km oil change and Gold bottle API SM for 10kkm). API SM Semi Synthetic RM86 per 4L.
*
thanks.

how much for white/silver bottle?
efaceninja
post Nov 27 2014, 11:21 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 12:47 AM)
Check your manual,  I believe someone mentioned xw30
If that's true,  consider trying out 0w20

Then there's budget,  for run of the mill,  there's Motul h tech 100 plus. About 180 for 4 litres

Torco SR1 (i also highly recommended)  is more performance oriented however they go for around 240/4 litres

There's also motul 8100 series although I haven't tried them out.
I have and is currently on their 300v and my god those double esters are smooth! Not cheap though at about 340/4 litres

If you're looking for insanely long oci, look no further than amsoil signature series (which I have included uoa on first page)
They go at about 180 to 200/4 litres
If you want some certification like api,  then scale down to amsoil OE series which also guarantees damn long oci as well (iinm 15k miles instead of 25k miles compared to signature series.  Yes f***ing miles not km)
Should be a bit cheaper than signature series
*
now taking on interest in this AMSOIL oil 0w20, poisoned by, well, Quazacolt. ok the amsoil Signature Series & OE series, what's the different? both are fully synt right? saw the OE product name in the API page. how much is the price different between OE & Signature?

Intended to use on 4AFE engine. yes its an old engine, so i'm not actually sure 0w20 will do any harm. but reading through this thread, the oil film strength seems to be more important factor in wear protection? currently using 10w30 oil and no oil leak / loss has been detected yet. wanna try this 0w20 on next oil change, for the sack of improving FC, but also at the same time wanna protect the engine.

my driving style is medium-fast steady. you know la, being able to satisfied with your-most-hated CC5's grip level, i don't really trash my car that much.

do.. what do you reckon?? (i think i've always been poisoned by you)

edit: quick look at Amsoil's malaysia distributor website "Vicson Lubricant", i can't find the OE series in their website, only Signature series and XL series. So can we buy OE series in malaysia?? Well, XL 0w20 SN is found on the API listing also, but not Signature series.

p/s: i know you running 0w20 in your Inspira. but are you running 0w20 in your Iswara?? or are you planning to do so?

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Nov 28 2014, 01:55 PM
PedangGila
post Nov 28 2014, 03:25 AM

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QUOTE(Rudd @ Nov 27 2014, 11:06 PM)
thanks.

how much for white/silver bottle?
*
Ignore the white/silver.
dstl1128
post Nov 28 2014, 08:32 AM

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QUOTE(CoffeeDude @ Nov 27 2014, 05:11 PM)
Quazacolt,

Do you know where to get Low SAPS full syn engine oil in Malaysia?
*
I only know hydrocracked one (synthetic tech, not fully). Try LiquiMoly TopTec 4200, or other TopTec 4000 series. How to get? kakimotor or online order.




Rudd
post Nov 28 2014, 08:59 AM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Nov 28 2014, 03:25 AM)
Ignore the white/silver.
*
thank you again biggrin.gif
PedangGila
post Nov 28 2014, 09:27 AM

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QUOTE(Rudd @ Nov 28 2014, 08:59 AM)
thank you again  biggrin.gif
*
No problem. All the best.
efaceninja
post Nov 28 2014, 02:15 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 27 2014, 07:21 PM)
Honda japan/USA no prob... Honda Malaysia...
http://paultan.org/2014/11/27/honda-malays...ew-engine-oils/

hopefully someone can clarify la laugh.gif
*
see that Honda Malaysia now has API SN 0w20 engine oil. how does it compares to the Amsoil? anyone has the PDS?
Just now i went to my local UMW Toyota 3S centre, asking for the price of Toyota's 0w20 EO. they replied me they don't have that grade, only got xw40 and xw30. then i ask, how about the prius or prius C that came here for service? they say they just offer xw30 and/or xw40 .. sweat.gif sweat.gif

Amsoil seems not readily available around my area.. so i now exploring the option of this new honda SN 0w20 oil. hope you extreme badass EO knowledge can shed some light on me lols.

OR, if it is just a bad idea trying to run 0w20 on such an old engine.
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post Nov 28 2014, 03:41 PM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Nov 28 2014, 02:15 PM)
see that Honda Malaysia now has API SN 0w20 engine oil.  how does it compares to the Amsoil?  anyone has the PDS?
Just now i went to my local UMW Toyota 3S centre, asking for the price of Toyota's 0w20 EO.  they replied me they don't have that grade, only got xw40 and xw30.  then i ask, how about the prius or prius C that came here for service? they say they just offer xw30 and/or xw40 ..  sweat.gif  sweat.gif

Amsoil seems not readily available around my area.. so i now exploring the option of this new honda SN 0w20 oil.  hope you extreme badass EO knowledge can shed some light on me lols.

OR, if it is just a bad idea trying to run 0w20 on such an old engine.
*
Running thin engine oil will enhance fuel efficiency. However, it is not recommended to use 0W20 EO if you're a rev happy person. Stick to the 0W30 EO as even Honda don't recommend their Type R and Accord 3.5l to use 0W20.
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 28 2014, 03:44 PM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Nov 27 2014, 11:21 PM)
now taking on interest in this AMSOIL oil 0w20, poisoned by, well, Quazacolt.  ok the amsoil Signature Series & OE series, what's the different? both are fully synt right?  saw the OE product name in the API page.  how much is the price different between OE & Signature?

Intended to use on 4AFE engine.  yes its an old engine, so i'm not actually sure 0w20 will do any harm.  but reading through this thread, the oil film strength seems to be more important factor in wear protection?  currently using 10w30 oil and no oil leak / loss has been detected yet.  wanna try this 0w20 on next oil change, for the sack of improving FC, but also at the same time wanna protect the engine.

my driving style is medium-fast steady.  you know la, being able to satisfied with your-most-hated CC5's grip level, i don't really trash my car that much.

do.. what do you reckon??  (i think i've always been poisoned by you)

edit: quick look at Amsoil's malaysia distributor website "Vicson Lubricant", i can't find the OE series in their website, only Signature series and XL series. So can we buy OE series in malaysia??  Well, XL 0w20 SN is found on the API listing also, but not Signature series.

p/s: i know you running 0w20 in your Inspira. but are you running 0w20 in your Iswara??  or are you planning to do so?
*
different product range.
signature series being top of the line, non api certified.
XL = extended life
OE = normal EO
both XL/OE API SN certified.
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...nyName%3Damsoil

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/moto...ine/?filters=73
dunno pricing for XL/OE but can use above as reference.

if xw30 is ok, xw20 should be of no problem.
If it is, then next oci go back to xw30. simple.

signature series may be excessive for you if you're not into the extreme OCI thing/minor performance/smoothness boost (since it's their top of the line signature series lol)... the additives are just way overboard lol. (hence not API certified)
i went for it only because the bottle was pretty (got signature on it lol), and it is cheaper than Torco SR1 0w20 which was what i initially wanted to go for however they don't have 4 bottles at that time, only 2.

no idea on getting OE series in Malaysia, just ask around.

Iswara is still on the xw30 Motul H Tech 100 plus, still a looooooonnnggg way to go until drain, which yes i am tempted/planning to go for 0w20 laugh.gif
my sis complained on cold start sluggish since the valves clearance were tightened for my track performance purposes... and sluggish cold start? 0w20 is PERFECT tongue.gif

QUOTE(efaceninja @ Nov 28 2014, 02:15 PM)
see that Honda Malaysia now has API SN 0w20 engine oil.  how does it compares to the Amsoil?  anyone has the PDS?
Just now i went to my local UMW Toyota 3S centre, asking for the price of Toyota's 0w20 EO.  they replied me they don't have that grade, only got xw40 and xw30.  then i ask, how about the prius or prius C that came here for service? they say they just offer xw30 and/or xw40 ..  sweat.gif  sweat.gif

Amsoil seems not readily available around my area.. so i now exploring the option of this new honda SN 0w20 oil.  hope you extreme badass EO knowledge can shed some light on me lols.

OR, if it is just a bad idea trying to run 0w20 on such an old engine.
*
no idea, not bothered on Honda brand.
SC/mainstream branded EO = you pay for the brand. and i already commented on paultan blog, the damn thing isn't even API SN or even API certified at all unless someone want to point out who's the exact OEM for this honda new oil that i'm lazy/not bothered to check.

if you can dig back your manual and see it's viscosity range, +/- xw10 from that value shouldn't be of any issue.
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 28 2014, 03:46 PM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Nov 28 2014, 03:41 PM)
Running thin engine oil will enhance fuel efficiency. However, it is not recommended to use 0W20 EO if you're a rev happy person. Stick to the 0W30 EO as even Honda don't recommend their Type R and Accord 3.5l to use 0W20.
*
yes and no.
it ultimately depends on your engine oil specs assuming they are from reputable brand (and preferably API SN certified)

refer to my youtube videos and UOA lab test result if you're still in doubt.
efaceninja
post Nov 28 2014, 04:14 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 28 2014, 03:44 PM)
SC/mainstream branded EO = you pay for the brand. and i already commented on paultan blog, the damn thing isn't even API SN or even API certified at all unless someone want to point out who's the exact OEM for this honda new oil that i'm lazy/not bothered to check.
*
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...anyName%3Dhonda

i thought is under AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR COMPANY, INC name? API until SN for all those listed in paultan.
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 28 2014, 04:31 PM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Nov 28 2014, 04:14 PM)
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...anyName%3Dhonda

i thought is under AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR COMPANY, INC name?  API until SN for all those listed in paultan.
*
ACURA ULTIMATE FULL SYNTHETIC <--- different label.

HONDA GENUINE SYNTHETIC BLEND
HONDA GENUINE ULTIMATE FULL SYNTHETIC
HONDA ULTIMATE FULL SYNTHETIC

all these also don't match.
the one in Malaysia have no "ULTIMATE"
and from paultan it's not synthetic blend also.

those still on Honda Genuine are non SN.

that's why i ask again, anyone wanna clarify? rolleyes.gif
efaceninja
post Nov 28 2014, 04:53 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 28 2014, 04:31 PM)
ACURA ULTIMATE FULL SYNTHETIC <--- different label.

HONDA GENUINE SYNTHETIC BLEND
HONDA GENUINE ULTIMATE FULL SYNTHETIC
HONDA ULTIMATE FULL SYNTHETIC

all these also don't match.
the one in Malaysia have no "ULTIMATE"
and from paultan it's not synthetic blend also.

those still on Honda Genuine are non SN.

that's why i ask again, anyone wanna clarify?  rolleyes.gif
*
i thought this "HONDA GENUINE SYNTHETIC BLEND" is the one referred by paultan. well, yup looking at paultan's its called Honda Genuine only, so they're different thing?? and also in the picture, there's no API logo printed/displayed. lols that's why need your eye to spot this kind of thing notworthy.gif notworthy.gif notworthy.gif

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Nov 28 2014, 04:54 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 28 2014, 04:57 PM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Nov 28 2014, 04:53 PM)
i thought this "HONDA GENUINE SYNTHETIC BLEND" is the one referred by paultan. well, yup looking at paultan's its called Honda Genuine only, so they're different thing??  and also in the picture, there's no API logo printed/displayed.  lols that's why need your eye to spot this kind of thing  notworthy.gif  notworthy.gif  notworthy.gif
*
API does require you to CLEARLY state your brand/model/labels etc.
anything different, have to re-certify.
So with that, yes different and to me not certified unless proven otherwise/wrong which i have requested until now no sound.

that's why i also hate Mainstream companies/EO lo... but can't blame them also la, willing buyers, willing scammers.
like our god car.
efaceninja
post Nov 28 2014, 05:07 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 28 2014, 03:44 PM)
different product range.
signature series being top of the line, non api certified.
XL = extended life
OE = normal EO
both XL/OE API SN certified.
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...nyName%3Damsoil

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/moto...ine/?filters=73
dunno pricing for XL/OE but can use above as reference.

if xw30 is ok, xw20 should be of no problem.
If it is, then next oci go back to xw30. simple.


signature series may be excessive for you if you're not into the extreme OCI thing/minor performance/smoothness boost (since it's their top of the line signature series lol)... the additives are just way overboard lol. (hence not API certified)
i went for it only because the bottle was pretty (got signature on it lol), and it is cheaper than Torco SR1 0w20 which was what i initially wanted to go for however they don't have 4 bottles at that time, only 2.

no idea on getting OE series in Malaysia, just ask around.

Iswara is still on the xw30 Motul H Tech 100 plus, still a looooooonnnggg way to go until drain, which yes i am tempted/planning to go for 0w20 laugh.gif
my sis complained on cold start sluggish since the valves clearance were tightened for my track performance purposes... and sluggish cold start? 0w20 is PERFECT tongue.gif

if you can dig back your manual and see it's viscosity range, +/- xw10 from that value shouldn't be of any issue.
*
sweat.gif pretty bottle lols
i think you just boost my confident level again, or rather, poison level. will try to look for the XL series. XL has got 9.0 TBN, Signature series has wayyyy higher TBN lols, according to their PDS.

LM's Special Tec AA (their only series certified with API) SN 0w20's TBN is 6.6. So i think, Amsoil XL is way better in this regard?
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 28 2014, 05:25 PM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Nov 28 2014, 05:07 PM)
sweat.gif pretty bottle lols
i think you just boost my confident level again, or rather, poison level.  will try to look for the XL series.  XL has got  9.0 TBN, Signature series has wayyyy higher TBN lols, according to their PDS.

LM's Special Tec AA (their only series certified with API) SN 0w20's TBN is 6.6.  So i think, Amsoil XL is way better in this regard?
*
HOLLLYYYY SHEEET LM FINALLY TOOK MY EMAIL TO HEART AND API (re, as they were api certified back in the 2008/2009 and before iinm) CERTIFY THEIR PRODUCTS

anyways.
can't just look at TBN alone, other specs (PDA/MSDS etc, for VI, actual viscosity ratings, HTHS, flash points etc), or VOA (virgin oil analysis)/UOA would be better.

example, even if TBN is 9, however other additives aren't good enough (say, calcium) or strong enough, the rate may deplete faster than say, a TBN 6.
if anything, i still had 6.3TBN after 8500 km on the amsoil signature series 0w20.
although the lab guys mention that TBN depletes at very high rate during the initial stages of the engine oil, however it'll start to slow down half way, which does make sense as the 8500km rate of TBN depletion certainly wouldn't be able to make it till 40k km (25k miles).

Then there's always other additives, friction modifiers etc.
hence the user feedback of "x oil smoother than y oil" smile.gif

API is always the safe bet as chances of going wrong is much lesser. remember, it's NOT easy to get it certified, as you need money (some companies choose not to certify as they don't want to pay, and/or add to their product cost), and the fact that emissions/cat-con protection etc is taken into account, while at the same time you have to protect your engine wear on very stringent tests at insane temperatures/hours.

i'm comfortable on the signature series/300v as i'm going to do UOA anyways... and they are products that represent the very company/brand itself. (should look at 300v ads/youtube videos rofl)
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 28 2014, 05:32 PM

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efaceninja
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produkt...voiladb=web.nsf

semi synthetic, while amsoil boasts being the first in synthetics, and the XL/OE are all fully synthetic tongue.gif
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/moto.../?code=XLZQT-EA

now the main difference between both (since they are API SN/ILSAC GF5 certified anyways) is the base stock, which on paper specs aside the TBN, looks like generally the same.

i would have thought that the VI amsoil would reign superior, however it looks like LM offset it with more VII's, while amsoil saves on VII, and dump in more detergent (for the longer OCI)

=edit=
this is what lm says:
QUOTE
Modern premium class low-friction motor oil that was specially developed for year-round use in Asian and American vehicles. The combination of unconventional base oils using synthetic technology together with the latest additive technology guarantees a motor oil that provides exceptional protection against wear, reduces oil and fuel consumption and keeps the engine clean while ensuring fast oil penetration of the engine. Oil change intervals of up to 40,000 km are thus possible, depending on the manufacturer’s specifications.


This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Nov 28 2014, 05:33 PM
feralee
post Nov 28 2014, 05:53 PM

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Anyone here used Wurth Semi Syn 10w40 ?

Need some feedback
efaceninja
post Nov 28 2014, 11:39 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 28 2014, 05:25 PM)
HOLLLYYYY SHEEET LM FINALLY TOOK MY EMAIL TO HEART AND API (re, as they were api certified back in the 2008/2009 and before iinm) CERTIFY THEIR PRODUCTS

anyways.
can't just look at TBN alone, other specs (PDA/MSDS etc, for VI, actual viscosity ratings, HTHS, flash points etc), or VOA (virgin oil analysis)/UOA would be better.

example, even if TBN is 9, however other additives aren't good enough (say, calcium) or strong enough, the rate may deplete faster than say, a TBN 6.
if anything, i still had 6.3TBN after 8500 km on the amsoil signature series 0w20.
although the lab guys mention that TBN depletes at very high rate during the initial stages of the engine oil, however it'll start to slow down half way, which does make sense as the 8500km rate of TBN depletion certainly wouldn't be able to make it till 40k km (25k miles).

Then there's always other additives, friction modifiers etc.
hence the user feedback of "x oil smoother than y oil" smile.gif

API is always the safe bet as chances of going wrong is much lesser. remember, it's NOT easy to get it certified, as you need money (some companies choose not to certify as they don't want to pay, and/or add to their product cost), and the fact that emissions/cat-con protection etc is taken into account, while at the same time you have to protect your engine wear on very stringent tests at insane temperatures/hours.

i'm comfortable on the signature series/300v as i'm going to do UOA anyways... and they are products that represent the very company/brand itself. (should look at 300v ads/youtube videos rofl)
*
Ok ok. So if I can't get the amsoil, I suppose I'll get the LM Special Tec AA, which is API SN certified and is available near my area.
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 29 2014, 12:55 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Nov 28 2014, 11:39 PM)
Ok ok. So if I can't get the amsoil, I suppose I'll get the LM Special Tec AA, which is API SN certified and is available near my area.
*
do post the price on the special tec AA, because semi syn for a premium doesn't quite sit well with me laugh.gif
Thrust
post Nov 29 2014, 08:26 AM

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My dad just serviced his Almera at Edaran Tan Chong Motor.. Those buggers used only 3 bottles of 1litre SN0W20 semi synthetic engine oil. The another 1 litre was added using RESTORER additives (friction modifier, hospower).

Please enlighten whether this is a good practice & can the engine oil last 10k by doing that?

I personally feels more comfortable if they use only engine oil fluids.
efaceninja
post Nov 29 2014, 09:43 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 29 2014, 12:55 AM)
do post the price on the special tec AA, because semi syn for a premium doesn't quite sit well with me laugh.gif
*
Oh ya, this is the part I don't quite get you. I thought the LM STAA is a fully synt oil? I mean, for their MOS2 series, they did label it as Semi Synthetic and Mineral.

IIRC LM STAA price is same or almost same as the Shell Helix Ultra.

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Nov 29 2014, 09:48 AM
efaceninja
post Nov 29 2014, 09:47 AM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Nov 29 2014, 08:26 AM)
My dad just serviced his Almera at Edaran Tan Chong Motor.. Those buggers used only 3 bottles of 1litre SN0W20 semi synthetic engine oil. The another 1 litre was added using RESTORER additives (friction modifier, hospower).

Please enlighten whether this is a good practice & can the engine oil last 10k by doing that?

I personally feels more comfortable if they use only engine oil fluids.
*
Almera is using 0w20 EO default recommend by TC itself? Wow.good good.

What kind of restorer additive they're using??
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post Nov 29 2014, 03:04 PM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Nov 29 2014, 09:47 AM)
Almera is using 0w20 EO default recommend by TC itself? Wow.good good.

What kind of restorer additive they're using??
*
Ya, they are using SN0W20 Fully Synthetic now.

The brand itself is called RESTORER.. This is just TAN CHONG MOTOR to rip consumers by putting in rubbish into the car's engine.
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post Nov 29 2014, 04:54 PM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Nov 29 2014, 09:43 AM)
Oh ya, this is the part I don't quite get you. I thought the LM STAA is a fully synt oil? I mean, for their MOS2 series, they did label it as Semi Synthetic and Mineral.

IIRC LM STAA price is same or almost same as the Shell Helix Ultra.
*
synthetic technology.

not fully synthetic.
taiping boy
post Nov 30 2014, 01:33 PM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Nov 29 2014, 09:47 AM)
Almera is using 0w20 EO default recommend by TC itself? Wow.good good.

What kind of restorer additive they're using??
*
User manual recommended 0w30..but they pour 0w20 now. Brand is nissan! But i found out its oem is elf/total.. Quite powerful d oil.. On my last oci, my almera can go up 190km/hr during 9k++ prior to oci.. Ok la..
pumpman
post Dec 1 2014, 12:22 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Nov 29 2014, 10:43 AM)
Oh ya, this is the part I don't quite get you. I thought the LM STAA is a fully synt oil? I mean, for their MOS2 series, they did label it as Semi Synthetic and Mineral.

IIRC LM STAA price is same or almost same as the Shell Helix Ultra.
*
Cheap and and better than LM staa


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
TSQuazacolt
post Dec 1 2014, 07:53 AM

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QUOTE(pumpman @ Dec 1 2014, 12:22 AM)
Cheap and and better than LM staa
*
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...yName%3Daddinol

Diesel only, so in that regard LM better
dstl1128
post Dec 1 2014, 08:41 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Nov 29 2014, 09:43 AM)
Oh ya, this is the part I don't quite get you. I thought the LM STAA is a fully synt oil? I mean, for their MOS2 series, they did label it as Semi Synthetic and Mineral.

IIRC LM STAA price is same or almost same as the Shell Helix Ultra.
*
LM synthetic technology are hydrocracked group 3. Only synthoil (full synthetic) is group 4. And MoS2 won't be API rated as I've asked them.


QUOTE
Thank you for your inquiry from the 03.11.2014 and the interest in our products.

The Leichtlauf High Tech will not come as a 5W-30. If you want to have a 5W-30 with a high ash content, we would recommend you to use the Leichtlauf Special AA 5W-30 (please have a look at your manufacturer specification).

We only mix the 10W-30 and 10W-40 semi-synthetic with the MoS2, because if would do that with ervery oil, we would not get any manufacturer approval.
The car manufacturer don't want to have solid lubricants in the engine oil, because this additive extend the life-time of an engine.
The Oil Additive can be mixed with every conventional engine oil (fully synthetic, semi synthetic, mineral or HC).

We hope we could help you with our informations. Should you have further questions regarding our products we would be very pleased to get contacted from you again.

Mit freundlichen Grüßen / Best regards
efaceninja
post Dec 1 2014, 09:44 AM

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QUOTE(dstl1128 @ Dec 1 2014, 08:41 AM)
LM synthetic technology are hydrocracked group 3. Only synthoil (full synthetic) is group 4. And MoS2 won't be API rated as I've asked them.
*
QUOTE
Thank you for your inquiry from the 03.11.2014 and the interest in our products.

The Leichtlauf High Tech will not come as a 5W-30. If you want to have a 5W-30 with a high ash content, we would recommend you to use the Leichtlauf Special AA 5W-30 (please have a look at your manufacturer specification).

We only mix the 10W-30 and 10W-40 semi-synthetic with the MoS2, because if would do that with ervery oil, we would not get any manufacturer approval.
The car manufacturer don't want to have solid lubricants in the engine oil, because this additive extend the life-time of an engine.
The Oil Additive can be mixed with every conventional engine oil (fully synthetic, semi synthetic, mineral or HC).

We hope we could help you with our informations. Should you have further questions regarding our products we would be very pleased to get contacted from you again.

Mit freundlichen Grüßen / Best regards
wait what? you mean LM is telling us that car manufacturers don't want solid lubs in engine oil, because car maker wants the engine life span to be shorter?? so that car maker can earn more money because their engine kabut faster and therefore normal folks need to buy car more often?? am i understand correctly??
dstl1128
post Dec 1 2014, 02:49 PM

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Maybe just ignore the "because this additive extend the life-time of an engine." part.

But I believe this "The car manufacturer don't want to have solid lubricants in the engine oil" alone is good enough. Perhaps too costly to have a proper test on each and everyone of those solid lub like mos2 or nano ws or whatever.
SUSMatrix
post Dec 1 2014, 03:23 PM

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Just to share:

Mobil US has an oil selection website.

http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/motoro...OilOption2.aspx

Attached Image

smile.gif

No Fake Lancer on the list, Fake Inspira will have to do. tongue.gif



This post has been edited by Matrix: Dec 1 2014, 03:24 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Dec 1 2014, 11:18 PM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Dec 1 2014, 09:44 AM)
wait what? you mean LM is telling us that car manufacturers don't want solid lubs in engine oil, because car maker wants the engine life span to be shorter?? so that car maker can earn more money because their engine kabut faster and therefore normal folks need to buy car more often?? am i understand correctly??
*
basically additives lo (as per my sharing on previous pages/pinned on page 1)

no, you're not understanding correctly.
it just means that it's too much effort for car manufacturers to deal with additives.
and not all additives are worth it, and worse some could potentially harm your engine. (especially in the long run)

mos2 = Molybdenum disulfide
ceratec = ceramic nano particles
WS2 = Tungsten Disulfide

then there's the ever popular PTFE teflon (Polytetrafluoroethylene)
tufoil god damnit link previews on pdf
CODE
http://www.tufoil.com/tufoilms.pdf


and look, the true gods of lubricant:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...t&Number=478700
what, year 2006 thread? lol

=edit to overcome forum shit code=
wkkay

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Dec 1 2014, 11:19 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Dec 1 2014, 11:24 PM

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AFAIK edit pings don't work, so... yea
wkkay
TSQuazacolt
post Dec 1 2014, 11:25 PM

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QUOTE(Matrix @ Dec 1 2014, 03:23 PM)
Just to share:

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


No Fake Lancer on the list, Fake Inspira will have to do. tongue.gif
*
this grandmother story i've been preaching since last year december. now also december liao.
thefryingfox
post Dec 1 2014, 11:46 PM

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I've been using total oil for sometime but from the description you've shared...LM oil seems to be the best at keeping the car in good shape?


TSQuazacolt
post Dec 2 2014, 12:00 AM

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QUOTE(thefryingfox @ Dec 1 2014, 11:46 PM)
I've been using total oil for sometime but from the description you've shared...LM oil seems to be the best at keeping the car in good shape?
*
total seems fine to me
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...mpanyName=total
thefryingfox
post Dec 2 2014, 12:03 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 2 2014, 12:00 AM)
Yup. typically use quartz 7000 5w30 in my diesel engine. smooth to about 8000km then it becomes slightly harsher. typically change at 8 or 10k ...when convinient
chemistry
post Dec 2 2014, 12:47 AM

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Next oil i will try soon is this...
user posted image

Price quite affordable to me.
SUSMatrix
post Dec 2 2014, 09:38 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 1 2014, 11:25 PM)
this grandmother story i've been preaching since last year december. now also december liao.
*
Help you preach mah...haha.
langatian
post Dec 7 2014, 04:32 PM

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QUOTE(chemistry @ Dec 2 2014, 12:47 AM)
Next oil i will try soon is this...
user posted image

Price quite affordable to me.
*
This HDEO right?
Thrust
post Dec 7 2014, 09:54 PM

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QUOTE(chemistry @ Dec 2 2014, 12:47 AM)
Next oil i will try soon is this...
user posted image

Price quite affordable to me.
*
API SL certified oil.. Ain't that good to me since SL standard is already near obsolete.
dstl1128
post Dec 8 2014, 10:39 AM

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Liqui Moly MoS2 are API-SL.

And Perodua needs minimum API-SJ... should be fine lol.
chemistry101
post Dec 8 2014, 04:40 PM

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QUOTE(langatian @ Dec 7 2014, 04:32 PM)
This HDEO right?
*
Not sure.
But it has got api sL so should be fine i guess.
langatian
post Dec 8 2014, 08:48 PM

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QUOTE(chemistry101 @ Dec 8 2014, 04:40 PM)
Not sure.
But it has got api sL so should be fine i guess.
*
I see the rating for diesel is CI-4 means its HDEO. Good for your engine. Because mostly EO rated at CF for diesel.
TSQuazacolt
post Dec 9 2014, 11:50 AM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Dec 7 2014, 09:54 PM)
API SL certified oil.. Ain't that good to me since SL standard is already near obsolete.
*
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...yName%3Daddinol

label incorrect.
not even API Certified.

QUOTE(dstl1128 @ Dec 8 2014, 10:39 AM)
Liqui Moly MoS2 are API-SL.

And Perodua needs minimum API-SJ... should be fine lol.
*
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...Dliqui%2520moly
not even API Certified.

special tec semi synthetic is (with the pricing of full synthetic and wrongly marketed as full synthetic by local market)

QUOTE(chemistry101 @ Dec 8 2014, 04:40 PM)
Not sure.
But it has got api sL so should be fine i guess.
*
nope it does not.
FerozHafizi
post Dec 11 2014, 03:10 PM

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Hi all, first post. Ive been reading the forums for like 4-5 hours now and still getting dizzy.

Situation: My bro gave me his MyVi Ezi 1.3 2008/2009 recently and now its due for service. Im looking at choosing what good engine oil to buy for it. My bro told me hes only been using cheap mineral oils past couple of years. Since the car is like 5/6 years old, i thought im going to feed it with at least semi syntethic from now on.

Now can someone suggest me a good semi-synthethic engine oil brand for this exact car? I got the 5/30w bit, i kinda understand about looking for a high TBN value. But all these API SL SC etc etc scares the sh1t outta me.

Im a slow and careful driver. My main aim is to take care of the engine so it runs smoothly. Im leaning towards Pennzoil 5/30W SS one. I dont even know why laugh.gif

Ty
XPS1530
post Dec 11 2014, 03:12 PM

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try this

http://www.voltronic-germany.com/touring-n...erformance.html
TSQuazacolt
post Dec 11 2014, 04:12 PM

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QUOTE(FerozHafizi @ Dec 11 2014, 03:10 PM)
My bro told me hes only been using cheap mineral oils past couple of years. Since the car is like 5/6 years old, i thought im going to feed it with at least semi syntethic from now on.

Now can someone suggest me a good semi-synthethic engine oil brand for this exact car? I got the 5/30w bit, i kinda understand about looking for a high TBN value. But all these API SL SC etc etc scares the sh1t outta me.
*
personally, go for API SN full synthetic.

semi is not worth it because it's pricing isn't far off full synthetic.
that and the definition of semi synthetic is very loose - for example, they can have maybe 1% group 4/5 base stock/synthetic additives and can call it semi synthetic while full synthetic definition is clear: the base stock/additives must be fully synthetic made.

from personal experience, i lean with Motul/amsoil/Torco.
TSQuazacolt
post Dec 11 2014, 04:14 PM

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QUOTE(XPS1530 @ Dec 11 2014, 03:12 PM)
try this
*
totally no API certified products, zero confidence.
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post Dec 12 2014, 02:15 PM

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QUOTE(FerozHafizi @ Dec 11 2014, 03:10 PM)
Im a slow and careful driver. My main aim is to take care of the engine so it runs smoothly. Im leaning towards Pennzoil 5/30W SS one. I dont even know why  laugh.gif
Ty
*
Since only smooth driving and has been with mineral for so long...

try Liqui Moly Proline Engine Flush 500ml.... then use Liqui Moly MoS2 10w30 (semi) for smooooooth engine.



efaceninja
post Dec 15 2014, 06:25 AM

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Bro Quazacolt, new 0w20 EO player in ther market~~! lols. https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3440479
i know you must feel proud of perodua. haha. but however, is their perodua EO API certified? didn't go check yet.

TSQuazacolt
post Dec 15 2014, 08:38 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Dec 15 2014, 06:25 AM)
Bro Quazacolt, new 0w20 EO player in ther market~~! lols.  https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3440479
i know you must feel proud of perodua. haha.  but however, is their perodua EO API certified? didn't go check yet.
*
no. perodua never make me proud.

https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsSearch
query yourself

quick answer: no.
efaceninja
post Dec 15 2014, 09:19 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 15 2014, 08:38 AM)
no. perodua never make me proud.

https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsSearch
query yourself

quick answer: no.
*
Hahhaha, don't be so harsh. But anyway, come to think of it, actually perodua no need to go through the hassle for API certification. They don't market their oil to other cars. They make/source the oil only for their own car, they tested for their own car. And it is covered by their warranty. So why should they care about API?

API is more relevant if the EO is to be used on many other engines.

P/s: I still can't find any AMSoil dealer near my areas...
izso
post Dec 15 2014, 09:30 AM

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QUOTE(FerozHafizi @ Dec 11 2014, 03:10 PM)
Hi all, first post. Ive been reading the forums for like 4-5 hours now and still getting dizzy.

Situation: My bro gave me his MyVi Ezi 1.3 2008/2009 recently and now its due for service. Im looking at choosing what good engine oil to buy for it. My bro told me hes only been using cheap mineral oils past couple of years. Since the car is like 5/6 years old, i thought im going to feed it with at least semi syntethic from now on.

Now can someone suggest me a good semi-synthethic engine oil brand for this exact car? I got the 5/30w bit, i kinda understand about looking for a high TBN value. But all these API SL SC etc etc scares the sh1t outta me.

Im a slow and careful driver. My main aim is to take care of the engine so it runs smoothly. Im leaning towards Pennzoil 5/30W SS one. I dont even know why  laugh.gif

Ty
*
If your car has been on minerals all this while, best be careful changing to semi or fully syn. Check for leaks after then oil change cuz you'll never know with mineral oils.

Personally my motto has always been buy what's within your budget. Pennzoil is a reputable brand that's certified and is relatively cheap, but not exactly the best. But you get for what you pay. Their semi oil costs about RM90 and the FS is about RM130. Like what Quazcolt said - why not top up for the FS? If it's out of budget the semi works fine. Personally I find the Perodua 5W30 white bottle semi oil quite bang for buck.


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 15 2014, 08:38 AM)
quick answer: no.


The car brands rebrand oil la.. you'll never see them listed in the API index / website. Perodua rebrands PETRONAS oil and they are API certified. Toyota - Pennzoil, Honda - Idemitsu, etc. All API certified. But you already know that.

So don't so anti-local la. You're driving a Proton afterall whistling.gif

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post Dec 15 2014, 10:14 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Dec 15 2014, 09:19 AM)
actually perodua no need to go through the hassle for API certification. They don't market their oil to other cars. They make/source the oil only for their own car, they tested for their own car. And it is covered by their warranty. So why should they care about API?
*
you can look up other brand of EO such as honda/toyota/nissan/hyundai/ford etc
they are there.

need or not is one thing, you asked are they on API, they aren't.
that's all.

personally since they are rebranded petronas, and petronas does have 5000/7000 series with 0w20 and are API SN/GF5 certified, i supposed they are ok.
that's if i'll ever bother with perodua cars laugh.gif
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post Dec 15 2014, 10:17 AM

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QUOTE(izso @ Dec 15 2014, 09:30 AM)
The car brands rebrand oil la.. you'll never see them listed in the API index / website. Perodua rebrands PETRONAS oil and they are API certified. Toyota - Pennzoil, Honda - Idemitsu, etc. All API certified. But you already know that.

So don't so anti-local la. You're driving a Proton afterall  whistling.gif
*
as replied above - nope lol.
feel free to dig up the API directory.

although yes, not all car brands have their oil listed.
the rule of thumb again, is even your oil is the SAME and just rebranded to suit a car maker (eg: proton), you HAVE to re-certify it with the API to be able to use their certification logos.

and no, i'm not anti local, just mentioning things as it is, facts if you will.
after all i am driving a Proton, 2 in fact, and even my sister have a perodua which i also take care of smile.gif
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post Dec 15 2014, 08:12 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 28 2014, 04:31 PM)
ACURA ULTIMATE FULL SYNTHETIC <--- different label.

HONDA GENUINE SYNTHETIC BLEND
HONDA GENUINE ULTIMATE FULL SYNTHETIC
HONDA ULTIMATE FULL SYNTHETIC

all these also don't match.
the one in Malaysia have no "ULTIMATE"
and from paultan it's not synthetic blend also.

those still on Honda Genuine are non SN.

that's why i ask again, anyone wanna clarify?  rolleyes.gif
*
let me explain, those listed in API depends on individual countries to apply API to suit local regulations.
for MY, there's no API certified. however, it was API SN. just not apply to API only.

do you know that if oils apply to API to get donut, royalties will applied.
and FYI, even API certified EO, not necessary is a good oil.. API certifed just for consumer confidence like you rclxms.gif
joshuaa85
post Dec 15 2014, 08:19 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 1 2014, 11:18 PM)
basically additives lo (as per my sharing on previous pages/pinned on page 1)

no, you're not understanding correctly.
it just means that it's too much effort for car manufacturers to deal with additives.
and not all additives are worth it, and worse some could potentially harm your engine. (especially in the long run)

mos2 = Molybdenum disulfide
ceratec = ceramic nano particles
WS2 = Tungsten Disulfide

then there's the ever popular PTFE teflon (Polytetrafluoroethylene)
tufoil god damnit link previews on pdf
CODE
http://www.tufoil.com/tufoilms.pdf


and look, the true gods of lubricant:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...t&Number=478700
what, year 2006 thread? lol

=edit to overcome forum shit code=
wkkay
*
not all EO contains MoS2 or Moly based additives. though it was friction modifier to reduce friction for greater FC.
it's only subject to low viscosity oil suxh as 0W20 or lower to enchance the engine protection due to low viscosity.

and don't try PTFE based engine oil treatement. although it was great. it could damage your engine in long run..
just personal opinion as PTFE will damage the engine still disputed.
joshuaa85
post Dec 15 2014, 08:20 PM

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QUOTE(taiping boy @ Nov 30 2014, 01:33 PM)
User manual recommended 0w30..but they pour 0w20 now. Brand is nissan!  But i found out its oem is elf/total.. Quite powerful d oil.. On my last oci,  my almera can go up 190km/hr during 9k++ prior to oci.. Ok la..
*
i own a almera, i also using 0W20... maker was Idemitsu ?
u got steel ball 190km/h... rclxms.gif
Thrust
post Dec 15 2014, 10:05 PM

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QUOTE(joshuaa85 @ Dec 15 2014, 08:20 PM)
i own a almera, i also using 0W20... maker was Idemitsu ?
u got steel ball  190km/h... rclxms.gif
*
Did you noticed Tan Chong Motor uses only 3 bottles of 1 litre 0W20 of engine oil and later they add in those crap engine additives to supplement the other 500ml of engine oil?
TSQuazacolt
post Dec 15 2014, 10:11 PM

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QUOTE(joshuaa85 @ Dec 15 2014, 08:12 PM)
let me explain, those listed in API depends on individual countries to apply API to suit local regulations.
for MY, there's no API certified. however, it was API SN. just not apply to API only.

do you know that if oils apply to API to get donut, royalties will applied.
and FYI, even API certified EO, not necessary is a good oil.. API certifed just for consumer confidence like you rclxms.gif
*
no, not really.
API is an international institute, or heck you can even argue it's american since A is American afterall.
Certainly is not dependent on individual countries regulations. If that were the case, there's:
JASO Japan
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_Auto...ds_Organization

ACEA Europe
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/European_Auto...ers_Association

or in Malaysia, that should be either PUSPAKOM or JPJ (still local standards/regulations)

nothing to do with API.
If you would like to find out more info, may read up the first page.

http://www.api.org/~/media/files/certifica...eestructure.pdf
Additionally, the "royalty" to pay to API is 3k usd, to be honest if you're dealing with lubricants and the potential profit of it, 3k isn't a huge sum to pay.
IN FACT we have local companies being certified as well Petronas excluded, example:
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...ndName%3Dshenzo

The only excuse to not get certified is products not able to meet API's standards/requirement, which are fairly strict:
http://www.api.org/certification-programs/...ditionfinal.pdf

Sure, it may not be good oil, in fact almost all racing oils aren't certified due to additional additives being used.
However it certainly gives the mass consumers a peace of mind instead of "oh my butt feels this oil smooth" random claims of good and whether really good or not no one will know unless someone presents a UOA (used oil analysis) test that can provide rock solid proof.

QUOTE(joshuaa85 @ Dec 15 2014, 08:19 PM)
not all EO contains MoS2 or Moly based additives. though it was friction modifier to reduce friction for greater FC.
it's only subject to low viscosity oil suxh as 0W20 or lower to enchance the engine protection due to low viscosity.

and don't try PTFE based engine oil treatement. although it was great. it could damage your engine in long run..
just personal opinion as PTFE will damage the engine still disputed.
*
no, liqui moly MOS2 does not even have 0w20:
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produkt...ocument&land=DE
lowest is xw30 which surprisingly is gone from their website.

personally i wouldn't go with PTFE based additives as well considering some people did in fact reported damage or have very poor UOA results smile.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Dec 15 2014, 10:13 PM

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wkkay
bro can turn off preview for pdf? sad.gif
joshuaa85
post Dec 16 2014, 06:03 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 15 2014, 10:11 PM)
no, not really.
API is an international institute, or heck you can even argue it's american since A is American afterall.
Certainly is not dependent on individual countries regulations. If that were the case, there's:
JASO Japan
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_Auto...ds_Organization

ACEA Europe
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/European_Auto...ers_Association

or in Malaysia, that should be either PUSPAKOM or JPJ (still local standards/regulations)

nothing to do with API.
If you would like to find out more info, may read up the first page.

http://www.api.org/~/media/files/certifica...eestructure.pdf
Additionally, the "royalty" to pay to API is 3k usd, to be honest if you're dealing with lubricants and the potential profit of it, 3k isn't a huge sum to pay.
IN FACT we have local companies being certified as well Petronas excluded, example:
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...ndName%3Dshenzo

The only excuse to not get certified is products not able to meet API's standards/requirement, which are fairly strict:
http://www.api.org/certification-programs/...ditionfinal.pdf

Sure, it may not  be good oil, in fact almost all racing oils aren't certified due to additional additives being used.
However it certainly gives the mass consumers a peace of mind instead of "oh my butt feels this oil smooth" random claims of good and whether really good or not no one will know unless someone presents a UOA (used oil analysis) test that can provide rock solid proof.
no, liqui moly MOS2 does not even have 0w20:
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produkt...ocument&land=DE
lowest is xw30 which surprisingly is gone from their website.

personally i wouldn't go with PTFE based additives as well considering some people did in fact reported damage or have very poor UOA results smile.gif
*
LiquiMoly Mos2 don't have Moly additives ?
why does it called MoS2 ?
joshuaa85
post Dec 16 2014, 06:05 PM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Dec 15 2014, 10:05 PM)
Did you noticed Tan Chong Motor uses only 3 bottles of 1 litre 0W20 of engine oil and later they add in those crap engine additives to supplement the other 500ml of engine oil?
*
Ya..i don't know why only consume 3L engine oil only on 1.5 L 4 cylinder engine ?
i always reject the aftermarket engine oil treatment unless it's genuine brand.
TSQuazacolt
post Dec 16 2014, 06:09 PM

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QUOTE(joshuaa85 @ Dec 16 2014, 06:03 PM)
LiquiMoly Mos2 don't have Moly additives ?
why does it called MoS2 ?
*
yes they do.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/moly-basics/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide

i was referring to your post:
QUOTE
it's only subject to low viscosity oil suxh as 0W20 or lower to enchance the engine protection due to low viscosity.


in which no, even high viscosity oil have moly/mos2 in them.
joshuaa85
post Dec 16 2014, 06:18 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 16 2014, 06:09 PM)
yes they do.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/moly-basics/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide

i was referring to your post:
in which no, even high viscosity oil have moly/mos2 in them.
*
what i mean is usually for low viscosity oil like 0W20 does have Moly..
of course 5W30 or higher can be contains Moly as well..
rclxms.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Dec 16 2014, 06:32 PM

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QUOTE(joshuaa85 @ Dec 16 2014, 06:18 PM)
what i mean is usually for low viscosity oil like 0W20 does have Moly..
of course 5W30 or higher can be contains Moly as well..
rclxms.gif
*
not 0w20 (got 1 Mobil Super 5000 5W-20), but here api sn mobil 5000
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...opics/2278298/1

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...&Number=2547400

http://www.pqiamerica.com/ExxonMobilSuper5000.htm

point is, viscosity is NOT a determining factor whether an engine oil has moly or not.
it is an additive that EO manufacturers choose to include or exclude.

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Dec 16 2014, 06:36 PM
efaceninja
post Dec 16 2014, 08:22 PM

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Lols you guys are totally not talking on the same channel, hahahah
joshuaa85
post Dec 16 2014, 08:42 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 16 2014, 06:32 PM)
not 0w20 (got 1 Mobil Super 5000 5W-20), but here api sn mobil 5000
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...opics/2278298/1

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...&Number=2547400

http://www.pqiamerica.com/ExxonMobilSuper5000.htm

point is, viscosity is NOT a determining factor whether an engine oil has moly or not.
it is an additive that EO manufacturers choose to include or exclude.
*
i would say.. for SAE 0W20... usually contains Moly..
i understood that Moly just the additives for EO, but sometimes it is necessary additives for lowviscosity EO.

TSQuazacolt
post Dec 16 2014, 09:23 PM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Dec 16 2014, 08:22 PM)
Lols you guys are totally not talking on the same channel, hahahah
*
Ikr? Lol
TSQuazacolt
post Dec 16 2014, 09:25 PM

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QUOTE(joshuaa85 @ Dec 16 2014, 08:42 PM)
i would say.. for SAE 0W20... usually contains Moly..
i understood that Moly just the additives for EO, but sometimes it is necessary additives for lowviscosity EO.
*
No, just no.
dstl1128
post Dec 17 2014, 11:19 AM

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http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/moly-basics/
TSQuazacolt
post Dec 17 2014, 12:01 PM

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QUOTE(dstl1128 @ Dec 17 2014, 11:19 AM)
i linked already loh (scroll up)

=edit=
oh wait just this page, not previous page lol

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Dec 17 2014, 12:02 PM
dstl1128
post Dec 17 2014, 02:32 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 17 2014, 12:01 PM)
i linked already loh (scroll up)

=edit=
oh wait just this page, not previous page lol
*
Those 'floating sneak preview' is abit annoying and hard to see lol. tongue.gif



TSQuazacolt
post Dec 17 2014, 02:34 PM

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QUOTE(dstl1128 @ Dec 17 2014, 02:32 PM)
Those 'floating sneak preview' is abit annoying and hard to see lol. tongue.gif
*
you tell me, i have those pdf links (neh API punya costing/methods etc, VERY detailed stuff hehe )which cannot be previewed or link clicked upon... need to reply/quote and see the link unless i go edit and put on code tags to prevent the preview thing taking over doh.gif doh.gif doh.gif
joshuaa85
post Dec 17 2014, 10:01 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 16 2014, 09:25 PM)
No, just no.
*
any citation ? in my experience of 0W20 EO, all of them contains Moly.
maybe we're in different channel hmm.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Dec 18 2014, 01:01 AM

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QUOTE(joshuaa85 @ Dec 17 2014, 10:01 PM)
any citation ? in my experience of 0W20 EO, all of them contains Moly.
maybe we're in different channel hmm.gif
*
I just linked?
Click them maybe?
PedangGila
post Dec 18 2014, 04:40 PM

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Today my torco sr1r went down the drain plug because of miscommunication between me and the p2 staff. It clicked only around 4000km and cannot be recovered for analysis. Now back to p2 oil and yea sc foc the oil an filter.

Mobil 1 ep do you trust up to 20k km quaza?
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post Dec 18 2014, 04:47 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Dec 18 2014, 04:40 PM)
Today my torco sr1r went down the drain plug because of miscommunication between me and the p2 staff. It clicked only around 4000km and cannot be recovered for analysis. Now back to p2 oil and yea sc foc the oil an filter.

Mobil 1 ep do you trust up to 20k km quaza?
*
didn't tell them reimburse your sr1? tribunal etc la lol...
there's many cases of p2 sc simply replacing spark plugs

no comment on mobil 1, personally prefer performance/boutique engine oils.
PedangGila
post Dec 18 2014, 07:55 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 18 2014, 04:47 PM)
didn't tell them reimburse your sr1? tribunal etc la lol...
there's many cases of p2 sc simply replacing spark plugs

no comment on mobil 1, personally prefer performance/boutique engine oils.
*
The oil already half mark so if want to pay damage like rm140 or so but yea the real miss is the uoa sample. This p2 had a good record, won awards and i had no problem with my car although i abuse it quite alot meaning they did a good job. The car now clicked almost 195,000 km in 6 years plus top speed check one a month so if it's not well maintained things goner already.

Yes, the aircond compressor used oil too, do you change it every 30kkm?
TSQuazacolt
post Dec 19 2014, 02:16 AM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Dec 18 2014, 07:55 PM)
Yes, the aircond compressor used oil too, do you change it every 30kkm?
*
personally ~40k km+ or 2 years.
jezz12
post Dec 21 2014, 12:32 PM

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Greetings, I have a question for the sifus here. Is it okay to pour in Liqui Moly Cera Tec into Motul H-Tech 100 Plus 5w30? Will it give any negative effect on engine? Hope someone can help to clarify this as I'm going for a major service (40k km) this Tuesday. BTW it's for Inspira. Any advice will be much appreciated. TIA notworthy.gif
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post Dec 21 2014, 11:12 PM

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QUOTE(jezz12 @ Dec 21 2014, 12:32 PM)
Greetings, I have a question for the sifus here. Is it okay to pour in Liqui Moly Cera Tec into Motul H-Tech 100 Plus 5w30? Will it give any negative effect on engine? Hope someone can help to clarify this as I'm going for a major service (40k km) this Tuesday. BTW it's for Inspira. Any advice will be much appreciated. TIA  notworthy.gif
*
hmm coincidentally i never did that combo before as i've since then stopped ceratec and the last time usage was on amsoil 0w20 in my inspira.
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post Dec 22 2014, 05:26 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 21 2014, 11:12 PM)
hmm coincidentally i never did that combo before as i've since then stopped ceratec and the last time usage was on amsoil 0w20 in my inspira.
*
Why stop using Cera Tec? I thought it's good for engine protection?
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post Dec 22 2014, 05:34 PM

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QUOTE(jezz12 @ Dec 22 2014, 05:26 PM)
Why stop using Cera Tec? I thought it's good for engine protection?
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can view previous post/first page on comments/opinions on additives.
jimmychoo75
post Dec 26 2014, 12:21 AM

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Hi sifus. Was wondering which type / brand of engine oil should I use for better fc and overall power increase? I'm a kenari ezi 04 owner and has been using shell helix hx5 10w30 for the last couple of oil change. Thinking of trying semi synthetic for a change. Any good recommendations? Budget below RM120. Thx in advance.
Klemann C
post Dec 27 2014, 06:43 PM

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Hi,

according specification from these 2 EO, which of this better?

Mobil 1 New Life 0w-40

Total Quartz INEO MC3 5w-40
dstl1128
post Dec 29 2014, 08:33 AM

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QUOTE(jimmychoo75 @ Dec 26 2014, 12:21 AM)
Hi sifus. Was wondering which type / brand of engine oil should I use for better fc and overall power increase? I'm a kenari ezi 04 owner and has been using shell helix hx5 10w30 for the last couple of oil change. Thinking of trying semi synthetic for a change. Any good recommendations? Budget below RM120. Thx in advance.
*
With that price... I think the closest is Liqui Moly MoS2 10w30 (rm125 ~ rm130).


chemistry101
post Dec 29 2014, 03:15 PM

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Didn't manage to buy Addinol Super Longlife 10w40 due to unexpected causes.
Instead, i was advised to try PetroCanada Duron-E XL 15W40 at similar price of RM130.

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TSQuazacolt
post Dec 29 2014, 04:32 PM

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QUOTE(Klemann C @ Dec 27 2014, 06:43 PM)
Hi,

according specification from these 2 EO, which of this better?

Mobil 1 New Life 0w-40

Total Quartz INEO MC3 5w-40
*
paper specs alone, easily mobil 1
dstl1128
post Jan 2 2015, 02:44 PM

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Motul H-TECH series on Group 3 or Group 4 base stock? Some say it is group 3.

Or which part in Motul website that mention its base stock type?


XiuKeong
post Jan 2 2015, 11:21 PM

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Wanna ask, is it good to do interval ATF oil change than follow the service book whereby change at 100k mileage?
dstl1128
post Jan 3 2015, 02:06 AM

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QUOTE(XiuKeong @ Jan 2 2015, 11:21 PM)
Wanna ask, is it good to do interval ATF oil change than follow the service book whereby change at 100k mileage?
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ATF... the max 40k km then change. Better if 20k km. I almost did follow Toyota SC stupid recommendation on 100k km, I felt uneasy and change at 80k km... and it smells terrible and that bright red pinkish ATF WS become like kopi-o.


XiuKeong
post Jan 3 2015, 04:17 AM

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QUOTE(dstl1128 @ Jan 3 2015, 02:06 AM)
ATF... the max 40k km then change. Better if 20k km. I almost did follow Toyota SC stupid recommendation on 100k km, I felt uneasy and change at 80k km... and it smells terrible and that bright red pinkish ATF WS become like kopi-o.
*
Ok, I was worry since I daily drive a lot...will get it change soon. Thanks smile.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 3 2015, 06:52 AM

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QUOTE(dstl1128 @ Jan 2 2015, 02:44 PM)
Motul H-TECH series on Group 3 or Group 4 base stock? Some say it is group 3.

Or which part in Motul website that mention its base stock type?
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AFAIK motul did not disclose it's base stock.
most likely not group 3 as iinm European ruling forbids non group 4/5 to be labeled as full synthetic.

even if it is though it shouldn't matter if it is group 3 so long it meets api certifications/specifications along with other manufacturer specifications and of course it's own technical data sheet/specs.

personally, group 3 may even be better as group 5 ester have issues of swelling seals/softening them, while group 4 PAO have issues on shrinking seals.
group 3 did not specifically have any drawbacks other than being *supposedly* inferior than group 4/5.
PedangGila
post Jan 5 2015, 03:06 PM

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Waiting for M1 oil filters only to be available in feb.

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TSQuazacolt
post Jan 9 2015, 05:12 PM

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Red Line MTL oil sample:

rachel_xxx
post Jan 11 2015, 03:06 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Jan 5 2015, 03:06 PM)
Waiting for M1 oil filters only to be available in feb.

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you selling?


pg84
post Jan 11 2015, 08:02 PM

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QUOTE(Klemann C @ Dec 27 2014, 06:43 PM)
Hi,

according specification from these 2 EO, which of this better?

Mobil 1 New Life 0w-40

Total Quartz INEO MC3 5w-40
*
Engine gets rough with mc3 at 5k km.....no good

Klemann C
post Jan 11 2015, 09:58 PM

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QUOTE(pg84 @ Jan 11 2015, 08:02 PM)
Engine gets rough with mc3 at 5k km.....no good
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oh really? that sounds quite bad..
now my car on Shell Ultra 5w-40 kinda rough as well even since 1st day poured in...never quite like it compared to Mobil New Life 0w-40 tried previously...
btw, you tried this before on your car?
PedangGila
post Jan 12 2015, 02:41 PM

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QUOTE(rachel_xxx @ Jan 11 2015, 03:06 PM)
you selling?
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No, I'm just a reckless buyer. Check mayalab in garage.
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 12 2015, 06:03 PM

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https://plus.google.com/u/0/+JasonLimQuazac...sts/LFaT7N5JRqr
PedangGila
post Jan 12 2015, 06:55 PM

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Regular oil change? You bring foreign oil inside that sc?
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 12 2015, 07:41 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Jan 12 2015, 06:55 PM)
Regular oil change? You bring foreign oil inside that sc?
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ya
boonwuilow
post Jan 12 2015, 07:57 PM

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What do u guys think of my engine? It seems to me the engine oil is a bit dirty... hmm.gif
user posted image
PedangGila
post Jan 13 2015, 09:54 AM

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No sludge tho which is good.
PedangGila
post Jan 13 2015, 04:03 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 12 2015, 07:41 PM)
ya
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And using p1 oil filter? I hav yet to ask my p2 about it and losing that torco then switched to m1ep looks like I have to find another port. P2 charged rm30 for service only.
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 13 2015, 04:14 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Jan 13 2015, 04:03 PM)
And using p1 oil filter? I hav yet to ask my p2 about it and losing that torco then switched to m1ep looks like I have to find another port. P2 charged rm30 for service only.
*
i'm fortunate that Proton bukit maluri are very flexible/friendly folks smile.gif
COSE on the other hand... grumble.gif
PedangGila
post Jan 13 2015, 05:14 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 13 2015, 04:14 PM)
i'm fortunate that Proton bukit maluri are very flexible/friendly folks smile.gif
COSE on the other hand...  grumble.gif
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Lucky la. I called my p2 (it's not mine but they've been servicing my car for most of its 6 years life) and they said they can do foreign oil change but they're cautious bout it since it might backfired, hit their reputation in case anything wrong happened then it's traced back to them.

Ya I can understand that because they need to charge for the service but missing an oil is a big question mark and they may be looked down as not being able to fully represent p2 products and services.

Anyway, I saw a redline eo posted by you, is that yours? Looks like it's going for uoa too.
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 13 2015, 05:21 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Jan 13 2015, 05:14 PM)
Anyway, I saw a redline eo posted by you, is that yours? Looks like it's going for uoa too.
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yes it's mine however no it's not an eo, it's my transmission fluid, gear oil if you will.
carbon14
post Jan 17 2015, 01:39 PM

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Guys, i got a cfe engine running 7-10k km more than its service interval. Unknown service interval with previous owner. Do you recommend flushing with an engine flusher? Or just change eo n etc
efaceninja
post Jan 18 2015, 10:37 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 12 2015, 06:03 PM)
don't tell me you pour 20w50 tesco value oil into your inspira!?
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 19 2015, 01:19 AM

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QUOTE(carbon14 @ Jan 17 2015, 01:39 PM)
Guys, i got a cfe engine running 7-10k km more than its service interval. Unknown service interval with previous owner. Do you recommend flushing with an engine flusher? Or just change eo n etc
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try just changing EO

QUOTE(efaceninja @ Jan 18 2015, 10:37 PM)
don't tell me you pour 20w50 tesco value oil into your inspira!?
*
read the caption/description on the right side of the image
Renee
post Jan 19 2015, 06:18 PM

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Hi Guys.

Want to ask something, when we go to service center like Toyota, Honda and etc, they all tighten the undercarriage of the car, actually what they tighten ?

I feel alot different when driving, the car more stable and solid feel after service at those service center.

Now my car no more warranty, so i plan to service outside, but not sure how to tell the shop.
pg84
post Jan 20 2015, 11:00 AM

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QUOTE(Klemann C @ Jan 11 2015, 09:58 PM)
oh really? that sounds quite bad..
now my car on Shell Ultra 5w-40 kinda rough as well even since 1st day poured in...never quite like it compared to Mobil New Life 0w-40 tried previously...
btw, you tried this before on your car?
*
Never liked shell , for me either mobil 1 or castrol edge. If ur on budget can try bardhal FS , its quite good really n cheap too biggrin.gif
SUSlowya
post Jan 20 2015, 12:19 PM

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QUOTE(Renee @ Jan 19 2015, 06:18 PM)
Hi Guys.

Want to ask something, when we go to service center like Toyota, Honda and etc, they all tighten the undercarriage of the car, actually what they tighten ?

I feel alot different when driving, the car more stable and solid feel after service at those service center.

Now my car no more warranty, so i plan to service outside, but not sure how to tell the shop.
*
Placebo effect.
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 20 2015, 02:00 PM

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QUOTE(lowya @ Jan 20 2015, 12:19 PM)
Placebo effect.
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so direct meh, i think girl wo... (from forum profile la)
XPS1530
post Jan 20 2015, 02:05 PM

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urmm...do gear oil (auto or manual) got same spec like EO? i mean mineral, semi and fully?

thanks in advance
SUSlowya
post Jan 20 2015, 02:12 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 20 2015, 02:00 PM)
so direct meh, i think girl wo... (from forum profile la)
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That's exactly the point, lol.
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 20 2015, 02:13 PM

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QUOTE(XPS1530 @ Jan 20 2015, 02:05 PM)
urmm...do gear oil (auto or manual) got same spec like EO? i mean mineral, semi and fully?

thanks in advance
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yes. feel free to look up first page/google/wiki etc
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 20 2015, 02:13 PM

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QUOTE(lowya @ Jan 20 2015, 02:12 PM)
That's exactly the point, lol.
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ok la good intentions thumbup.gif
dororo
post Jan 26 2015, 06:47 PM

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Hello all sifus, my just noticed that recently my civic 97' gear oil leaking, how should i fix it ? and how much will it cost? is it safe to drive with this condition now? I need car for day to day work... sad.gif
all sifus please advise.
Helro
post Jan 26 2015, 07:49 PM

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Need help from forum members with experience with cars

My car broke down yesterday on the highway, i was going from ipoh to kl driving at 140km/h
suddenly i hear loud rattling noise coming from engine, i pulled over to the side

A few minutes later, highway police came and on inspection of my car they said my problem was from the engine bearing. so my car was towed to the nearest toll exit, where his mechanic friend was waiting for us. he also said problem was from engine bearing when he first heard the sound there.

After we took the car to his shop to do full inspection, he pulled out the bottom part of the engine with the oil in it, and you could see metal residue like metal scrapings in the oil. and he showed me the bottom part of the engine (pictures attached) and said that the thing of the far right needed to be replaced.

he said i needed a full engine overhaul that costs 2300RM++ i was wondering if anyone has any experience with cars , do you think a full engine overhaul is necessary, I just want to get the car working again nothing fancy and don't have that kind of money in my budget whats the least amount of work i can get done to get it running again?


Apparently the cause of my problem is because i drove the car without enough engine oil, i didn't think it needed replacement since i changed it 1 month ago and haven't seen any leaks ( it may be because i drove to Ipoh-Kl three times all at 160km/h)

The car is an Automatic Wira 1995, engine is 4g15p




the part that needs replacing is the part without oil that has been cleaned
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This post has been edited by Helro: Jan 26 2015, 07:50 PM
efaceninja
post Jan 26 2015, 08:32 PM

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QUOTE(dororo @ Jan 26 2015, 06:47 PM)
Hello all sifus, my just noticed that recently my civic 97' gear oil leaking, how should i fix it ? and how much will it cost? is it safe to drive with this condition now?  I need car for day to day work... sad.gif
all sifus please advise.
*
how do you know its gear oil? how fast is it leaking? check your oil level with your ATF dip stick (i assume is auto gear?), if too low then don't drive. buy a bottle of honda ATF, fill it, then go to your usual mech for a check. if no usual mech, go to official honda service centre is safer
efaceninja
post Jan 26 2015, 08:42 PM

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QUOTE(Helro @ Jan 26 2015, 07:49 PM)
Need help from forum members with experience with cars

My car broke down yesterday on the highway, i was going from ipoh to kl driving at 140km/h
suddenly i hear loud rattling noise coming from engine, i pulled over to the side

A few minutes later, highway police came and on inspection of my car they said my problem was from the engine bearing. so my car was towed to the nearest toll exit, where his mechanic friend was waiting for us. he also said problem was from engine bearing when he first heard the sound there.

After we took the car to his shop to do full inspection, he pulled out the bottom part of the engine with the oil in it, and you could see metal residue like metal scrapings in the oil. and he showed me the bottom part of the engine (pictures attached) and said that the thing of the far right needed to be replaced.

he said i needed a full engine overhaul that costs 2300RM++ i was wondering if anyone has any experience with cars , do you think a full engine overhaul is necessary, I just want to get the car working again nothing fancy and don't have that kind of money in my budget whats the least amount of work i can get done to get it running again?
Apparently the cause of my problem is because i drove the car without enough engine oil, i didn't think it needed replacement since i changed it 1 month ago and haven't seen any leaks ( it may be because i drove to Ipoh-Kl three times all at 160km/h)

The car is an Automatic Wira 1995, engine is 4g15p
the part that needs replacing is the part without oil that has been cleaned
Attached Image
*
if you see metal scrapings in the oil, that's very very bad. and you said the mech says you drove the car without enough engine oil, that's means your piston is scrapppppppinnngggg your cylinder wall dry, hot (over heat), and fast (you were driving 140kmh with low engine oil). that's means cylinder wall damaged, which i think really needs full overhaul. at least that's what i think after reading your descibtion. your picture is not that clear, are those crankshaft? can't really figure out what's on the right that need replacement.

well, maybe you should've check your EO level more often, if you drive 160kmh that often. no leak visible to eye does not necessary means no leak. since you're driving 160kmh often, maybe the EO sip into the combustion chamber during the high stress moment, EO burn away together with fuel, out through the exhaust, so, you can't see the leak.

wait for other sifu to comment.. the above is just my opinion.
efaceninja
post Jan 26 2015, 09:45 PM

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new engine oil on the market!!
http://paultan.org/2015/01/26/umw-introduc...bricants-range/

wait, UMW? wait, is it for toyota cars?? wait, how about Toyota Motor Oil?? wait... what...??
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 27 2015, 01:15 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Jan 26 2015, 09:45 PM)
new engine oil on the market!!
http://paultan.org/2015/01/26/umw-introduc...bricants-range/

wait, UMW? wait, is it for toyota cars?? wait, how about Toyota Motor Oil?? wait... what...??
*
in case you didn't know already, penzzoil malaysia and repsol malaysia is under UMW.

additionally, they are an O&G company as well.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UMW_Holdings
dstl1128
post Jan 27 2015, 12:32 PM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Jan 26 2015, 09:45 PM)
new engine oil on the market!!
http://paultan.org/2015/01/26/umw-introduc...bricants-range/

wait, UMW? wait, is it for toyota cars?? wait, how about Toyota Motor Oil?? wait... what...??
*
I no see the official 'API SN' round logo, besides stating API SN/CF.

p/s: Can't find Grantt in API dir. Snake oil?

This post has been edited by dstl1128: Jan 27 2015, 12:41 PM
dstl1128
post Jan 27 2015, 12:45 PM

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I notice in the API dir listing, there's this performance category, so far I saw two types: Resource Conserving and Energy Conserving... what's the diff?


p/s: found API SN oil category

This post has been edited by dstl1128: Jan 27 2015, 12:47 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 28 2015, 07:03 PM

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https://plus.google.com/u/0/+JasonLimQuazac...sts/bhQZhvzXheC Latest blackstone labs UOA report on my 4B10 engine/F5MBB 5 speed manual transmission biggrin.gif

direct image link:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


some Q&A from me to blackstone

Gear oil/F5MBB Transmission:
Q: It seems that the viscosity is way off the mark and the high heat for prolonged period is most likely the cause of it. It's a relief that there are no permanent heat damage as per your comments, however it is still surprising to discover that the oil is no longer able to maintain its viscosity after heating it for too long twice. (as mentioned on the slip/email)

It was definitely a concern considering the hard shifts, which still persisted intermittently especially after aggressive driving/stuck in long traffic jams/hot weather and i am thankful that i have made the right decision to change the gear oil prior to my track days which could have caused a lot of damage had i stuck with the same oil.

As for the high metals, could it be due to my mis-shifts/gear (which i suppose synchronizers would be more appropriate/accurate) grinds be the cause of it? I've had a lot of mis-shifts/grinds as I've been driving the car very aggressively, track days aside.
http://youtu.be/dDdc3Emc2JI?t=22m0s
Would that be the main cause for the high metal wears?

A: I guess to your first point about the viscosity reading for the Red Line MTL, we don't really think the reading you got in this sample is too far out of line. The values that are referenced on most oils' MSDS or product data sheets are usually for virgin oil, and those tests are conducted under laboratory conditions. Then they report the median value as the "expected" viscosity of the fluid.

Once the oil is out of the bottle and sees use in the transmission, though, it's a whole different story. We expect an oil of a certain type to fall somewhere within a given range (in this case, between 8.8 and 11.9 cSt, when the data sheet reported 10.4 as the "typical" reading). Your reading was 8.5 cSt, which is just slightly below what we consider normal, but not at all what we'd call "way off the mark." That doesn't mean you were wrong to change it before your track days, of course -- fresh oil never hurts -- but we have a hard time saying there was a problem with the oil we tested, from a physical standpoint.

In addition, high heat usually tends to cause a multi-viscosity oil to "thicken up," so if there was heat damage to the oil, we'd expect a higher-than-normal viscosity reading (along with high insolubles and other issues), rather than a slightly low viscosity reading. That may just be normal use on the oil given how you've been driving this vehicle.

We do think the hard use could have contributed to the high wear, especially with the grinding you mentioned, but we doubt that any of these metals are high enough to call a problem level. Not all transmissions (or engines) can wear exactly like averages, and we'll have to see how trends develop over time to know if these slightly higher-than-average readings are just normal for your transmission and the use it sees.


Engine Oil/Mitsubishi 4B10:
Q: From the viscosity and flash point comparison, looks like my engine oil has thickened somewhat, in addition to having a lower flash point?
Any particular concerns on the flash point?

While this time around i have not used any engine oil additives unlike the previous sample, i have used fuel additives instead and are they the main cause for the viscosity/flash point changes, as well as possibly higher amount of Manganese as shown on the reports.

Would the higher silicon be of any concern?
I am using K&N drop in filters and i wonder if their filtration is inadequate?
What is the worse case scenario if your air filter is not providing sufficient filtration?
Would you suggest to continue oiling the filters or leave them un-oiled?

I have also previously used a neodymium magnet strapped on my oil filter, and it seems like it did not help and iron ppm has increased instead sad.gif
Supposedly if the engine oil is still fine, a shorter interval would help on wear? What is the reasoning on that? Is it due to having higher amount of remaining additives which would help in reducing wear?

A: As to the engine oil, again, there's going to be a difference between the specs listed for virgin oil from the Product Data sheet, and measured readings from a real-world sample after it's seen use in an engine. The product data sheet lists a viscosity of 8.0 cSt, and our measured result was 8.44 cSt -- that's about as close a reading as you could hope for in a used oil. We consider anything between 6.0 and 9.7 cSt to be a good reading for 0W/20 oil.

Likewise, the flashpoint of used oil is always lower than the flashpoint of a virgin sample, which is what they're reporting on the product data sheet. Your flashpoint was a little lower than our "should be" value of 385°F, but only enough to show about 0.5% fuel dilution. That's not a harmful amount, and is probably just due to the type of usage your engine saw.

It's possible that an additive could cause a change in viscosity or flashpoint readings, but we doubt that's the case here if none was used during this sample interval. It's much more likely that the viscosity reading is just normal for this type of oil, and the flashpoint is due to a harmless amount of fuel.

Silicon is a concern if it's from dirt. If there's abrasive dirt getting into the engine due to poor air filtration, it can cause increased wear at any of the engines internal parts -- pistons/rings/cylinders, valves, bearings, etc. -- and increased wear, if left unchecked, could lead to those parts failing. However, there could also be other sources for this level of silicon, such as certain additives, lubricants, or sealers, so as long as the air filter appears clean and you don't detect any leaks or cracks in the hoses downstream of the filter, we're not certain that this is harmful. High silicon is perfectly normal in the first oil change, due to wear-in from sealers used during the engine's assembly, and the only reason we were even slightly concerned about your reading here is that silicon went up instead of down. Continue to use the K&N filter according to their specifications as far as when you should oil it, and we'll see if silicon improves next time around.

The magnet will pick up large pieces of iron ("large" meaning "visible to the naked eye"), but the iron that we measure in our tests is made up of microscopic particles suspended in the oil itself. Often, that won't be affected too much by a magnet (our tests have shown only slight differences of 1-2 ppm of iron when using a magnet vs. not using a magnet). The higher iron in this sample may be due to the usage the engine saw, or it could show wear at a steel part, either due to a mechanical problem, or due to abrasive dirt contamination. Again, we'll know more as trends develop.

The recommendation for the shorter oil run won't necessarily reduce the wear-rate of iron (how much metal is being produced per-km), but it will keep the metal from building up to a point that it would make the oil itself abrasive. If too much metal builds up in the fluid, those small particles of metal will cause even more wear at the parts they come in contact with, making wear even worse. Plus, if the iron is from a problem and if it's getting worse, the sooner we see the next sample, the sooner we'll know for sure.

TSQuazacolt
post Jan 28 2015, 07:11 PM

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phobian empire23 BSL guys are very helpful bunch on my questions XD
empire23
post Jan 28 2015, 07:42 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 28 2015, 07:11 PM)
phobian empire23 BSL guys are very helpful bunch on my questions XD
*
I actually wonder where the iron is coming from. In a 4B10 the only iron parts are the crank, wrist pins and rods. They rest are alloy. Valves are still steel but they usually don't see a lot of wear (the seats and bronze guides usually wear first)

If only I could take the X-ray and Gamma ray inspection machines we use on-site to check metals and welds sad.gif
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post Jan 28 2015, 07:53 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Jan 28 2015, 07:42 PM)
I actually wonder where the iron is coming from. In a 4B10 the only iron parts are the crank, wrist pins and rods. They rest are alloy. Valves are still steel but they usually don't see a lot of wear (the seats and bronze guides usually wear first)

If only I could take the X-ray and Gamma ray inspection machines we use on-site to check metals and welds sad.gif
*
damn you for stuffing more ?'s in my head lol

hmm rods/pins wear would be a huge concern, although with the amount of ppm i am getting especially in the engine early stage, i guess i shouldn't be too paranoid?

and lol x ray/gamma ray just sounds so damn cool by itself XD
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post Jan 29 2015, 11:14 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 28 2015, 07:53 PM)
damn you for stuffing more ?'s in my head lol

hmm rods/pins wear would be a huge concern, although with the amount of ppm i am getting especially in the engine early stage, i guess i shouldn't be too paranoid?

and lol x ray/gamma ray just sounds so damn cool by itself XD
*
Shouldn't be an issue, but it would be nice to know where it is coming from so you can trend any wear.

As for me, we work with twin stage compressors rated up to 75 MW per pair, so lubrication is important, so much so we even preheat oil during start up and regulate oil temps with oil heaters.

UOA is via gas spectrometer on-site. We do dye penetrant magnaflux to check surfaces, ultrasound for scale detection (rust), x-ray and gamma/neutron scanning on all major moving parts and pipes to ensure the beast will run 24/7 for the next 30 years.

The lube? A truckload of synthetic ester.
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post Jan 29 2015, 11:57 AM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Jan 29 2015, 11:14 AM)
Shouldn't be an issue, but it would be nice to know where it is coming from so you can trend any wear.

As for me, we work with twin stage compressors rated up to 75 MW per pair, so lubrication is important, so much so we even preheat oil during start up and regulate oil temps with oil heaters.

UOA is via gas spectrometer on-site. We do dye penetrant magnaflux to check surfaces, ultrasound for scale detection (rust), x-ray and gamma/neutron scanning on all major moving parts and pipes to ensure the beast will run 24/7 for the next 30 years.

The lube? A truckload of synthetic ester.
*
very sophisticated stuff you're working with thumbup.gif

hopefully the next UOA would improve as ill probably have a slightly reduced mileage on it (OCI maybe in the 9-9.5k km mark perhaps)
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QUOTE(dororo @ Jan 26 2015, 06:47 PM)
Hello all sifus, my just noticed that recently my civic 97' gear oil leaking, how should i fix it ? and how much will it cost? is it safe to drive with this condition now?  I need car for day to day work... sad.gif
all sifus please advise.
*
Gear oil is to protect gearbox,

supposed you are a skilled mechanic and have a few spare gearbox at home for easy disposal,

then I say it's rather safe to drive with this condition.
noobhua
post Jan 31 2015, 05:24 PM

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My car is Honda City Vtec 2004.

Next week I will take my car back to SC to repair and change engine oil.
But before my car is service at outside and use 15w-40 castrol mineral engine oil.

If now I change my engine oil to 0w-20 or 0-30 Honda fully synthetics will it cause any problems?

Hope to get reply from you all.
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post Jan 31 2015, 07:36 PM

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QUOTE(noobhua @ Jan 31 2015, 05:24 PM)
My car is Honda City Vtec 2004.

Next week I will take my car back to SC to repair and change engine oil.
But before my car is service at outside and use 15w-40 castrol mineral engine oil.

If now I change my engine oil to 0w-20 or 0-30 Honda fully synthetics will it cause any problems?

Hope to get reply from you all.
*
for the most part, no.

however if your car is ALREADY leaking from worn seals, it may leak more/easier.
just monitor on your engine oil levels via dipstick weekly/bi-weekly just to be safe.
noobhua
post Jan 31 2015, 09:52 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 31 2015, 07:36 PM)
for the most part, no.

however if your car is ALREADY leaking from worn seals, it may leak more/easier.
just monitor on your engine oil levels via dipstick weekly/bi-weekly just to be safe.
*
My car has minor leaking on top of the engine.
Last two months I was send my car back to SC to do fully Inspection, they founded have leaking on top of engine.
They recommend to change Gasket and Oil Cap. But that time I haven't fix it.

Next week will do one more time inspection. If conform the leaking can fixed by replaced that two item, after that I change to Fully Synthetics will it damages to my car?
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 31 2015, 09:52 PM

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QUOTE(noobhua @ Jan 31 2015, 09:52 PM)
My car has minor leaking on top of the engine.
Last two months I was send my car back to SC to do fully Inspection, they founded have leaking on top of engine.
They recommend to change Gasket and Oil Cap. But that time I haven't fix it.

Next week will do one more time inspection. If conform the leaking can fixed by replaced that two item, after that I change to Fully Synthetics will it damages to my car?
*
my answer remains the same.
noobhua
post Jan 31 2015, 10:07 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 31 2015, 09:52 PM)
my answer remains the same.
*
Thank you.
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post Feb 1 2015, 08:37 PM

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hi. can anyone point me to where i can buy Duckhams engine oil in KL. thanks.
izso
post Feb 4 2015, 08:17 AM

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QUOTE(craziqbal @ Feb 1 2015, 08:37 PM)
hi. can anyone point me to where i can buy Duckhams engine oil in KL. thanks.
*
Duckhams and Castrol are now owned by BP. Last I heard BP was selling the Duckhams brand. You'll need to find specific workshops that sell this brand, it's super rare now.
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post Feb 4 2015, 11:10 AM

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Any offer by big marts on Engine Oil currently?

looking for shell fully syn..
chemistry101
post Feb 4 2015, 11:55 AM

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QUOTE(nite_eif @ Feb 4 2015, 11:10 AM)
Any offer by big marts on Engine Oil currently?

looking for shell fully syn..
*
You only need to browse every advertisement by hypermarkets on Friday/ Saturday/Sunday.
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post Feb 6 2015, 07:31 PM

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i got slightly whining/low rod knocking on engine, my previous foreman as me to use thicker engine oil and the issue will gone... so 20w-30 possible?
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post Feb 7 2015, 09:23 PM

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QUOTE(junfu1988 @ Feb 6 2015, 07:31 PM)
i got slightly whining/low rod knocking on engine, my previous foreman as me to use thicker engine oil and the issue will gone... so 20w-30 possible?
*
that's a work around, not a fix.
fix the source of the problem.

also i doubt there's 20w30 available, feel free to read up the information on first page to understand engine oil viscosity.
SUSraynman
post Feb 8 2015, 11:14 PM

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Can we use engine oil as a substitute for manual transmission fluid, say 75W90 API GL-4? smile.gif


chemistry101
post Feb 9 2015, 12:59 AM

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QUOTE(raynman @ Feb 8 2015, 11:14 PM)
Can we use engine oil as a substitute for manual transmission fluid, say 75W90 API GL-4?  smile.gif
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Does your car manual specify engine oil as transmission fluid?
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post Feb 9 2015, 04:50 AM

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QUOTE(chemistry101 @ Feb 9 2015, 12:59 AM)
Does your car manual specify engine oil as transmission fluid?
*
No. That's why I asked.

I am exploring the possibilities.

There are people who don't follow the car manual.

Does your car manual says that your engine must use fully synthetic oil?

user posted image



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post Feb 9 2015, 05:02 AM

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Back to my question....

Can we use engine oil as a substitute for manual transmission fluid, say 75W90 API GL-4? smile.gif

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=176856
izso
post Feb 9 2015, 09:28 AM

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QUOTE(raynman @ Feb 9 2015, 04:50 AM)
No. That's why I asked.

I am exploring the possibilities.

There are people who don't follow the car manual.

Does your car manual says that your engine must use fully synthetic oil?

user posted image
*
You're not comparing apple with apple. You're talking about putting engine oil into a gearbox. That's like saying can I use engine oil for cooking. Sure you can. It'll destroy the food, the taste will be terrible and you'll probably spoil your pans.

If you had bothered to read up on engine oils, gearbox oils and all, the only thing they have in similarity is the base oil. Additives are different, detergents are different, friction modifiers are different, etc.

But you're welcome to try. Just make sure you share your findings here once you destroy a synchro or two.
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post Feb 9 2015, 09:45 AM

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QUOTE(izso @ Feb 9 2015, 09:28 AM)
You're not comparing apple with apple. You're talking about putting engine oil into a gearbox. That's like saying can I use engine oil for cooking. Sure you can. It'll destroy the food, the taste will be terrible and you'll probably spoil your pans.

If you had bothered to read up on engine oils, gearbox oils and all, the only thing they have in similarity is the base oil. Additives are different, detergents are different, friction modifiers are different, etc.

But you're welcome to try. Just make sure you share your findings here once you destroy a synchro or two.
*
Did you even bother to read this?

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=176856

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post Feb 9 2015, 10:02 AM

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Using the appropriate engine oil of the correct viscosity (typically 5W30 or 10W30) is not as bad as using the wrong API GLx manual transmission fluid.

I quote here an extract of Wikipedia......

"Most lubricants for manual gearboxes and differentials are hypoid gear oils. These contain extreme pressure (EP) additives and antiwear additives to cope with the sliding action of hypoid bevel gears.

EP additives which contain phosphorous/sulfurous compounds are corrosive to yellow metals such as the copper and/or brass used in bushings and synchronizers; the GL1 class of gear oils does not contain any EP additives and thus finds use in applications which contain parts made of yellow metals.

GL-5 is not necessarily backward-compatible in synchro-mesh transmissions which are designed for a GL-4 oil: GL-5 has a lower coefficient of friction due to the higher concentration of EP additives over GL-4, and thus synchros can not engage as effectively. Also, transmissions which explicitly call for GL-4 oil may have been designed around this lower concentration of EP additives and thus may contain yellow metal parts which GL-5 will corrode."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil
chemistry101
post Feb 9 2015, 10:51 AM

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QUOTE(raynman @ Feb 9 2015, 04:50 AM)
No. That's why I asked.

I am exploring the possibilities.

There are people who don't follow the car manual.

Does your car manual says that your engine must use fully synthetic oil?
Fully syn or not depends on your liking. It does not change the fact that engine oil is for engine use.
What's wrong to follow car manual?

There are indeed gearboxes which specify engine oil as lubricant, which I can't recall now.
TSQuazacolt
post Feb 9 2015, 11:18 AM

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QUOTE(raynman @ Feb 8 2015, 11:14 PM)
Can we use engine oil as a substitute for manual transmission fluid, say 75W90 API GL-4?  smile.gif
*
yes and no.
yes because they are both lubricant, and theoretically so long your oil can withstand the heat/grinds within a transmission it will work fine.

no because engine oil are typically loaded with detergent to suspend carbon buildup/combustion blowbys and what not. while this is not a bad thing, it is not needed in a sealed transmission and that takes up precious ppm/quantity that could have been used for friction modifier additives instead.

additionally, transmission lubricants are typically loaded with additives to reduce acidity/varnish/oxidization build up to prolong intervals of it's oil and using an engine oil at much reduced intervals will only result wastage in your finances and the environment as well for oil disposal.

QUOTE(raynman @ Feb 9 2015, 04:50 AM)
No. That's why I asked.

I am exploring the possibilities.

There are people who don't follow the car manual.

Does your car manual says that your engine must use fully synthetic oil?

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
no that is incorrect; Every car owner/service manual specifies the use of proper specification lubricant for every component. (eg: API SG-SN etc with the appropriate viscosity in relation to your environment ambient temperature for engine oil, API GL4 with the appropriate viscosity)

please do not be ignorant and dig up the owner manual, if that is not available, consider the service manual which contains a lot more information as it is meant for workshop owners.
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post Feb 9 2015, 11:59 AM

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Would you use 5W30 viscosity oil if your manual says to use 10W30?

user posted image
TSQuazacolt
post Feb 9 2015, 12:02 PM

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QUOTE(raynman @ Feb 9 2015, 11:59 AM)
Would you use 5W30 viscosity oil if your manual says to use 10W30?

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
please read the first page of this thread.
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post Feb 9 2015, 12:20 PM

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My car manual says to use 2.15 litres of genuine MTF with specification 75W90 API GL-4.

What brand and part number of MTF is suitable to use as replacement as I don't know what the previous owner used.

It is about time to change the MTF.
chemistry101
post Feb 9 2015, 12:38 PM

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QUOTE(raynman @ Feb 9 2015, 12:20 PM)
My car manual says to use 2.15 litres of genuine MTF with specification 75W90 API GL-4.

What brand and part number of MTF is suitable to use as replacement as I don't know what the previous owner used.

It is about time to change the MTF.
*
Redline MT90 (Fully Syn), RM55 per quart (948mL)
Or, PetroCanada Traxon XL (Semi Syn), RM130 for 4liter.

This post has been edited by chemistry101: Feb 9 2015, 12:39 PM
SUSraynman
post Feb 9 2015, 01:07 PM

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QUOTE(chemistry101 @ Feb 9 2015, 12:38 PM)
Redline MT90 (Fully Syn), RM55 per quart (948mL)
Or, PetroCanada Traxon XL (Semi Syn), RM130 for 4liter.
*
Thanks!

I shall take 3 litres of Redline MT90 then.

Are you sure it is API GL-4 certified and not a GL-5?

I don't want the brass synchros in my MT to be damaged by the excessive sulphur/phosphorous EP additives in a GL-5 spec-ed fluid.
TSQuazacolt
post Feb 9 2015, 01:11 PM

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QUOTE(raynman @ Feb 9 2015, 12:20 PM)
My car manual says to use 2.15 litres of genuine MTF with specification 75W90 API GL-4.
*
that's the easiest spec you can find, any petrol station carries it.

additionally you can just go with your manufacturer/brand own fluid.

QUOTE(raynman @ Feb 9 2015, 01:07 PM)
Thanks!

I shall take 3 litres of Redline MT90 then.

Are you sure it is API GL-4 certified and not a GL-5?

I don't want the brass synchros in my MT to be damaged by the excessive sulphur/phosphorous EP additives in a GL-5 spec-ed fluid.
*
it is confirmed to be GL4, i am using Redline MTL myself and if you look up first page, i even have a used oil analysis lab report of it.

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Feb 9 2015, 01:12 PM
SUSraynman
post Feb 9 2015, 01:15 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 9 2015, 01:11 PM)
that's the easiest spec you can find, any petrol station carries it.

additionally you can just go with your manufacturer/brand own fluid.
*
I can't even find a bottle of MTF at the Shell and Petronas stations near my place, don't say whether the specs are correct first.

My manufacturer/brand own fluid is Hyundai Genuine.

Don't tell me I have to go back to an authorised service centre for a simple change of MTF.

TSQuazacolt
post Feb 9 2015, 01:26 PM

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QUOTE(raynman @ Feb 9 2015, 01:15 PM)
I can't even find a bottle of MTF at the Shell and Petronas stations near my place, don't say whether the specs are correct first.

My manufacturer/brand own fluid is Hyundai Genuine.

Don't tell me I have to go back to an authorised service centre for a simple change of MTF.
*
find at spare part shop

for petrol stations:
http://www.shell.com.my/products-services/...nge/spirax.html
http://www.mymesra.com.my/Transmission_and_Gear-@-GL-4.aspx

can't expect everyone to spoonfeed everything right?
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post Feb 9 2015, 01:38 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 9 2015, 01:26 PM)
find at spare part shop

for petrol stations:
http://www.shell.com.my/products-services/...nge/spirax.html
http://www.mymesra.com.my/Transmission_and_Gear-@-GL-4.aspx

can't expect everyone to spoonfeed everything right?
*
No need to spoonfeed.

I can do it myself.

I just went to the petrol stations this morning to find the MTF.

None available.

mosh
post Feb 9 2015, 01:48 PM

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i saw my MLM friend print screen the whole page 1 about how torco & LM responds to API and use it a marketing tool for his MLM brand "J" oil. laugh.gif
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post Feb 9 2015, 01:55 PM

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QUOTE(mosh @ Feb 9 2015, 01:48 PM)
i saw my MLM friend print screen the whole page 1 about how torco & LM responds to API and use it a marketing tool for his MLM brand "J" oil.  laugh.gif
*
but both Torco and LM BOTH are STILL actively API certified, as opposed to this "J" brand assuming what i am referring to is the same as what you're referring to laugh.gif

=edit=
you know what, i am screenshotting api page for torco/lm since certain people practices such perverse in their shitty business.

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Feb 9 2015, 01:59 PM
mosh
post Feb 9 2015, 02:03 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 9 2015, 01:55 PM)
but both Torco and LM BOTH are STILL actively API certified, as opposed to this "J" brand assuming what i am referring to is the same as what you're referring to laugh.gif

=edit=
you know what, i am screenshotting api page for torco/lm since certain people practices such perverse in their shitty business.
*
yeah bro.. u shud.. I hate those kind of ppl and their shitty biz too !
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QUOTE(mosh @ Feb 9 2015, 02:03 PM)
yeah bro.. u shud.. I hate those kind of ppl and their shitty biz too !
*
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69644426
done smile.gif
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QUOTE(chemistry101 @ Feb 9 2015, 12:38 PM)
Redline MT90 (Fully Syn), RM55 per quart (948mL)
Or, PetroCanada Traxon XL (Semi Syn), RM130 for 4liter.
*
I placed an order for 3 bottles of Redline MT-85 (75W85 API GL-4) at RM55 per bottle already. smile.gif

user posted image
izso
post Feb 10 2015, 10:15 AM

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QUOTE(raynman @ Feb 9 2015, 09:45 AM)
yawn.gif

did you even bother to read it? It's all hearsay hearsay and hearsay. Manufacturers do not simply call "engine oil" for no reason. Same applies for gear oil. If you choose to ignore the most obvious labels and choose to interchange the two, it's your choice and no one will say anything. Afterall, it's your car therefore your problem.

Incidentally, there's no need to declare how you were unable to find the right oils in that one single petrol station you went to, or to announce that you're using Redline. If you have a look at the title of this thread, it's "Engine Oil Reviews/Technical talk", not "Tell the world I'm using what oil".

Cheers.
izso
post Feb 10 2015, 10:19 AM

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QUOTE(mosh @ Feb 9 2015, 01:48 PM)
i saw my MLM friend print screen the whole page 1 about how torco & LM responds to API and use it a marketing tool for his MLM brand "J" oil.  laugh.gif
*
J brand using someone elses API certification or just referring to the email replies?

Hey Quazacolt - have you ever tried J brand and thrown in a oil test? It would be the ultimate in-your-face response to those MLM junkies.
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post Feb 10 2015, 10:43 AM

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QUOTE(raynman @ Feb 9 2015, 04:50 AM)
No. That's why I asked.

I am exploring the possibilities.

There are people who don't follow the car manual.

Does your car manual says that your engine must use fully synthetic oil?

user posted image
*
wow.. so cheap this new brand of engine oil, 5kg only rm13.

did it work? how about olive oil? run smoother?
mosh
post Feb 10 2015, 11:38 AM

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QUOTE(izso @ Feb 10 2015, 10:19 AM)
J brand using someone elses API certification or just referring to the email replies?

Hey Quazacolt - have you ever tried J brand and thrown in a oil test? It would be the ultimate in-your-face response to those MLM junkies.
*
no la.. i think he referring to the email replies on why some product are not API.. ( the cost, the exceed API spec thingy )
anyway, he seat few workstation beside me in the opis. if he intend to use this. i will whack him.. reveal his facebook id jer... hopefully he notice the latest API screenshot that ts added. biggrin.gif
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post Feb 10 2015, 11:52 AM

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QUOTE(izso @ Feb 10 2015, 10:15 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
ouch.
and people called me harsh/unfriendly sweat.gif

QUOTE(izso @ Feb 10 2015, 10:19 AM)
J brand using someone elses API certification or just referring to the email replies?

Hey Quazacolt - have you ever tried J brand and thrown in a oil test? It would be the ultimate in-your-face response to those MLM junkies.
*
as mosh mentioned.

i'm too much of a skeptic and considering there are ACTUAL Feedback of fucked up engines thanks to that oil... no thanks.
i could however help facilitate poslaju (combined shipping with me/my friends when we send our samples) to USA blackstone labs if anyone decides to do a UOA for that oil... of course, have to be honest la... don't use it for 1k km and call it 10k km rolleyes.gif
and that's giving the benefit of the doubt that the oil actually have sufficient additives in it even being virgin oil and not kosong like cooking oil whistling.gif

but yes, that would definitely be the ultimate "in-your-face" deal however i doubt it'd be any use to their religious supporters considering some of their responses to proper certification such as the API.
and it's sad that they used Torco/LM responses to further fuel their own agenda doh.gif

QUOTE(mosh @ Feb 10 2015, 11:38 AM)
no la.. i think he referring to the email replies on why some product are not API.. ( the cost, the exceed API spec thingy )
anyway, he seat few workstation beside me in the opis. if he intend to use this. i will whack him.. reveal his facebook id jer... hopefully he notice the latest API screenshot that ts added.  biggrin.gif
*
that J seller is your colleague? tongue.gif
give him some pep talk then lol... whatever he sell is none of my(our) business, but i hope he does it ethically and not simply borrow people's responses/words without basis and being selective of its context and what not.
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post Feb 10 2015, 08:39 PM

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mosh
post Feb 11 2015, 01:14 PM

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sorry noob question.

which one is better eh ? left or right ? I dun have any idea on how to compare this thing. icon_question.gif

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This post has been edited by mosh: Feb 11 2015, 01:21 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Feb 11 2015, 01:47 PM

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QUOTE(mosh @ Feb 11 2015, 01:14 PM)
sorry noob question.

which one is better eh ? left or right ? I dun have any idea on how to compare this thing.  icon_question.gif

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
abang adik specs, have to look at other specs (if available), or just go with certifications (such as API) or just go with brand/reputation etc.
mosh
post Feb 11 2015, 01:50 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 11 2015, 01:47 PM)
abang adik specs, have to look at other specs (if available), or just go with certifications (such as API) or just go with brand/reputation etc.
*
both are reputable brand and got API..
price wise is the same. just wondering which one looks a bit better on paper spec jer.. smile.gif

This post has been edited by mosh: Feb 11 2015, 01:50 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Feb 11 2015, 01:51 PM

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QUOTE(mosh @ Feb 11 2015, 01:50 PM)
both are reputable brand and got API..
price wise is the same. just wondering which one looks a bit better on paper spec jer..  smile.gif
*
spec difference from what you show, is negligible.

go with what you prefer nod.gif
if you don't mind, can reveal what oils are those? if not convenient feel free to pm laugh.gif
izso
post Feb 11 2015, 02:09 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 10 2015, 11:52 AM)
ouch.
and people called me harsh/unfriendly sweat.gif
Honestly I don't mean to be harsh or unfriendly. But I'm in the oil & gas industry and I've had my fair share of questions from dozens of people asking some of the most ridiculous questions. Companies spend millions on R&D on their oils and products - I find it preposterous that people think that they know better than the oil companies and use their products incorrectly, then later complain that this is crap or that is rubbish.

This post has been edited by izso: Feb 11 2015, 02:10 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Feb 11 2015, 02:26 PM

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QUOTE(izso @ Feb 11 2015, 02:09 PM)
Honestly I don't mean to be harsh or unfriendly. But I'm in the oil & gas industry and I've had my fair share of questions from dozens of people asking some of the most ridiculous questions. Companies spend millions on R&D on their oils and products - I find it preposterous that people think that they know better than the oil companies and use their products incorrectly, then later complain that this is crap or that is rubbish.
*
eh you in O&G ke? didn't realize/remember. it's been a damn long while since we've last spoken at howiechoo ICE TT laugh.gif

and ya, fully agree with you.
i'm not even in the O&G industry and yet i get similar ridiculous questions, albeit not as much as you do i reckon, still yea can understand where you're coming from.

like sure, go ahead use cooking oil in their engine.
just don't come crying father crying mother when it seizes requiring an expensive overhaul lol.
derail
post Feb 23 2015, 08:51 PM

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For those who practise extended OCIs, do you use better oil filters or swap the filters out btwn oil changes? How much oil is lost by dripping out?
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QUOTE(derail @ Feb 23 2015, 08:51 PM)
For those who practise extended OCIs, do you use better oil filters or swap the filters out btwn oil changes? How much oil is lost by dripping out?
*
i personally just change oil filter half way through (not going extreme extended oci anyways, in our weather and cheap labor, and no waste disposal restrictions, just not worth it.)
for iswara, oil loss is around 200-300ml, sentra much less as the oil filter size is much smaller than iswara's oil filter.
derail
post Feb 24 2015, 10:33 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 23 2015, 10:38 PM)
i personally just change oil filter half way through (not going extreme extended oci anyways, in our weather and cheap labor, and no waste disposal restrictions, just not worth it.)
for iswara, oil loss is around 200-300ml, sentra much less as the oil filter size is much smaller than iswara's oil filter.
*
I agree that really long OCI (~25k km) isn't suitable for our climate and stop-go mixed urban driving.
Would 10k with a filter change in between or 6 months (whichever comes first) be more reasonable, using a ordinary semi-synthetic like P2/Shell.
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post Feb 24 2015, 11:05 AM

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QUOTE(derail @ Feb 24 2015, 10:33 AM)
I agree that really long OCI (~25k km) isn't suitable for our climate and stop-go mixed urban driving.
Would 10k with a filter change in between or 6 months (whichever comes first) be more reasonable, using a ordinary semi-synthetic like P2/Shell.
*
if those semi synthetic are api sn, sure why not smile.gif

official SC's are practicing 10k km/6 months even with semi synthetic these days btw wink.gif
derail
post Feb 24 2015, 06:36 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 24 2015, 11:05 AM)
if those semi synthetic are api sn, sure why not smile.gif

official SC's are practicing 10k km/6 months even with semi synthetic these days btw wink.gif
*
Ah ok.

Anyway I'm out of the loop regarding Japanese brands of engine oils sold locally. Would the Eneos/Idemitsu 5w-30 4L semi-synthetic be good quality oils? If I heard it right over the phone, the prices are RM95/75 which is close to the usual P2. Or is the Idemitsu price too suspiciously low (recycle)?
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post Feb 24 2015, 07:35 PM

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QUOTE(derail @ Feb 24 2015, 06:36 PM)
Ah ok.

Anyway I'm out of the loop regarding Japanese brands of engine oils sold locally. Would the Eneos/Idemitsu 5w-30 4L semi-synthetic be good quality oils? If I heard it right over the phone, the prices are RM95/75 which is close to the usual P2. Or is the Idemitsu price too suspiciously low (recycle)?
*
feel free to query the API directory:
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsSearch
derail
post Feb 25 2015, 11:20 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 24 2015, 07:35 PM)
feel free to query the API directory:
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsSearch
*
There doesn't seem to be entries for UMW's pennzoil or P2 engine oils.

And I assume that the Eneos/Idemitsu oil that Malaysian stores are selling are imported from Japan otherwise there aren't any entries for Malaysian subsidiaries either.
TSQuazacolt
post Feb 25 2015, 11:23 AM

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QUOTE(derail @ Feb 25 2015, 11:20 AM)
There doesn't seem to be entries for UMW's pennzoil or P2 engine oils.

And I assume that the Eneos/Idemitsu oil that Malaysian stores are selling are imported from Japan otherwise there aren't any entries for Malaysian subsidiaries either.
*
usually cheaper/rebranded Eneos/Idemitsu are from Singapore, you may query eneos and idemitsu brands and they are API certified nod.gif
pennzoil is also API certified, just not most of UMW's outdated products lol

p1/p2 rebranded are from petronas, they typically aren't certified, however you can just go straight to the source: petronas which are API certified.
derail
post Feb 25 2015, 01:17 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 25 2015, 11:23 AM)
usually cheaper/rebranded Eneos/Idemitsu are from Singapore, you may query eneos and idemitsu brands and they are API certified nod.gif
pennzoil is also API certified, just not most of UMW's outdated products lol

p1/p2 rebranded are from petronas, they typically aren't certified, however you can just go straight to the source: petronas which are API certified.
*
The Eneos one looks to be this: JX NIPPON OIL & ENERGY CORPORATION (Japan)
Idemitsu: Idemitsu Lube Asia Pacific Pte. Ltd. (Singapore)
I don't think the Petronas certification can automatically carry over to the Petronas label because we don't know for sure what else is blended in there or that the formulation is up to API spec. Kind of surprise though, because I overlooked the lack of the API seal till now.
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QUOTE(derail @ Feb 25 2015, 01:17 PM)
The Eneos one looks to be this: JX NIPPON OIL & ENERGY CORPORATION (Japan)
Idemitsu:  Idemitsu Lube Asia Pacific Pte. Ltd. (Singapore)
I don't think the Petronas certification can automatically carry over to the Petronas label because we don't know for sure what else is blended in there or that the formulation is up to API spec. Kind of surprise though, because I overlooked the lack of the API seal till now.
*
yeap you are correct, the certification does not carry over.

i was referring to just use petronas brand straight away instead laugh.gif
their semi should be petronas syntium 800, however various feedback is that it isn't as smooth as other brands (especially the boutique/performance brands) and it is a bit expensive for being rather "mediocre".
nevertheless you can't go wrong with it considering the proper certifications/tests nod.gif
derail
post Feb 26 2015, 01:06 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 25 2015, 02:00 PM)
yeap you are correct, the certification does not carry over.

i was referring to just use petronas brand straight away instead laugh.gif
their semi should be petronas syntium 800, however various feedback is that it isn't as smooth as other brands (especially the boutique/performance brands) and it is a bit expensive for being rather "mediocre".
nevertheless you can't go wrong with it considering the proper certifications/tests nod.gif
*
I bought the Eneos semi-syn and the bottle didn't have the API certification logo. Forgot to check the Idemitsu products. Yeah the perodua/petronas is mediocre but easily available and generally safe from fakes which is why I use them often. What other semi-syn/mineral brands are considered mediocre and poorer value for money from butt-dyno feel? Shell helix? Bardahl?


TSQuazacolt
post Feb 26 2015, 04:08 PM

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QUOTE(derail @ Feb 26 2015, 01:06 PM)
I bought the Eneos semi-syn and the bottle didn't have the API certification logo. Forgot to check the Idemitsu products. Yeah the perodua/petronas is mediocre but easily available and generally safe from fakes which is why I use them often. What other semi-syn/mineral brands are considered mediocre and poorer value for money from butt-dyno feel? Shell helix? Bardahl?
*
ya if they aren't certified, they are not allowed to print/use the logo.

perodua depends, but since their sc using, should be safe as well.
petronas is the one with official api certification, and yes you can get from SC or petrol stations.

no idea on semi syns/mineral, since most (especially the good ones) semi syn pricing are very close to full synthetics, not to mention i can drag OCI, i find more value/satisfaction with reputable full synthetics nod.gif
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post Feb 27 2015, 09:03 PM

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anyone here have any feedback about platinum oil SS 10 40?
Malaysian Brand.
derail
post Feb 28 2015, 11:08 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 26 2015, 04:08 PM)
ya if they aren't certified, they are not allowed to print/use the logo.

perodua depends, but since their sc using, should be safe as well.
petronas is the one with official api certification, and yes you can get from SC or petrol stations.
.......
Thats strange if they don't use the logo if the oil is certified. Petronas engine oil at the petrol station don't have any certification logos either.
derail
post Feb 28 2015, 11:09 AM

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QUOTE(newneo @ Feb 27 2015, 09:03 PM)
anyone here have any feedback about platinum oil SS 10 40?
Malaysian Brand.
*
No idea but another local company Hyrax has up to date API certifications.
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post Feb 28 2015, 11:44 AM

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QUOTE(derail @ Feb 28 2015, 11:08 AM)
Thats strange if they don't use the logo if the oil is certified. Petronas engine oil at the petrol station don't have any certification logos either.
*
Been a while since I've checked out Petronas Eo,however AFAIK I do faintly remember them having the api logos

Maybe will go take a look if I visit Petronas again
csng
post Feb 28 2015, 04:48 PM

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Hi, I've got a 1996 Nissan Sentra B14 (1st hand, 72k milleage) using 15w-40, 20w-50 mineral oil all the while.

Due to high fc (around 7-8km/l 100% city drive), i was tempted to switch to using fully synthetic and see what happens. Bought Mobil 1 0W-40 Advanced Fully Synthetic.

I also have a bottle of Amsoil Engine and Transmission flush on hand, so what's your thought about it? Thanks.
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post Feb 28 2015, 04:49 PM

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QUOTE(csng @ Feb 28 2015, 04:48 PM)
Hi, I've got a 1996 Nissan Sentra B14 (1st hand, 72k milleage) using 15w-40, 20w-50 mineral oil all the while.

Due to high fc (around 7-8km/l 100% city drive), i was tempted to switch to using fully synthetic and see what happens. Bought Mobil 1 0W-40 Advanced Fully Synthetic.

I also have a bottle of Amsoil Engine and Transmission flush on hand, so what's your thought about it? Thanks.
*
go for it.

although imho it won't be of much difference as i suspect your issue would be engine wear and tear/compression loss etc.
csng
post Feb 28 2015, 04:57 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 28 2015, 04:49 PM)
go for it.

although imho it won't be of much difference as i suspect your issue would be engine wear and tear/compression loss etc.
*
Ok. So anyway to fix the compression loss issues.
I actually went to Tan Chong SC to ask for tuning 2 months back. They told me this model is obsolete and no longer in their service list. shakehead.gif
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post Mar 1 2015, 07:10 PM

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QUOTE(csng @ Feb 28 2015, 04:57 PM)
Ok. So anyway to fix the compression loss issues.
I actually went to Tan Chong SC to ask for tuning 2 months back. They told me this model is obsolete and  no longer in their service list. shakehead.gif
*
lubricants are not miracle objects that can miraculously replenish worn metals.
hence prevention > cure.

so ya, you may need to find actual mechanics for mechanical issues/wear.
that said, no harm trying out better lubricants; If it solves your problem/meet your objective/expectations, all the better smile.gif
izso
post Mar 2 2015, 09:30 AM

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QUOTE(csng @ Feb 28 2015, 04:57 PM)
Ok. So anyway to fix the compression loss issues.
I actually went to Tan Chong SC to ask for tuning 2 months back. They told me this model is obsolete and  no longer in their service list. shakehead.gif
*
You need to find a reputable mechanic who knows his way around your car. Then ask for a quote to do a complete overhaul. Replace oil seals, gaskets, piston rings, etc and skim the head. Then pour in that 0W40 of yours after you finish running in the rebuilt engine. Guarantee you'll feel a difference in FC and power. But it sounds like you'll need to spend 3-4k total.
PedangGila
post Mar 2 2015, 07:02 PM

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Ha, Jason looks like you killed the oil sooner than 10k. Having watched your video at sepang, it shouldnt be that hard since you babied the tranny. Something wrong with proton engine and trans block?
csng
post Mar 2 2015, 07:54 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Mar 1 2015, 07:10 PM)
lubricants are not miracle objects that can miraculously replenish worn metals.
hence prevention > cure.

so ya, you may need to find actual mechanics for mechanical issues/wear.
that said, no harm trying out better lubricants; If it solves your problem/meet your objective/expectations, all the better smile.gif
*
I just read a few more. Since Mobil 1 0W-40 has detergent that cleanses the engine, I scared that it might melt more sludge in my engine, causing clogged filters and etc.

I heard that solvents are harmful to engines, but the amsoil engine flush is not solvent based...so is it ok to proceed?

Have a look of the engine from the engine cap
Attached Image
TSQuazacolt
post Mar 2 2015, 09:17 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Mar 2 2015, 07:02 PM)
Ha, Jason looks like you killed the oil sooner than 10k. Having watched your video at sepang, it shouldnt be that hard since you babied the tranny. Something wrong with proton engine and trans block?
*
you'll need to be more specific - killed which oil?
also i don't baby my tranny if you've seen my past videos on how i gear grind the tranny

and proton? lol.
maybe you can go email them.
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post Mar 2 2015, 09:20 PM

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QUOTE(csng @ Mar 2 2015, 07:54 PM)
I just read a few more. Since Mobil 1 0W-40 has detergent that cleanses the engine, I scared that it might melt more sludge in my engine, causing clogged filters and etc.

I heard that solvents are harmful to engines, but the amsoil engine flush is not solvent based...so is it ok to proceed?

Have a look of the engine from the engine cap
Attached Image
*
i still stick with my previous reply.
and no clogged filters (if it even happens, which high chance it won't) will still have bypass.

as a matter of fact, ALL reputable engine oils should have sufficient amount of detergent to keep engine cleanliness.
so it's not just a mobil 1 thing and viscosity have nothing to do with it either.

and why are you asking me if it is ok to proceed when you said the flush is not solvent based when you're worried about solvents being harmful to engines?
from that picture i can tell nothing.
csng
post Mar 2 2015, 10:59 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Mar 2 2015, 09:20 PM)
i still stick with my previous reply.
and no clogged filters (if it even happens, which high chance it won't) will still have bypass.

as a matter of fact, ALL reputable engine oils should have sufficient amount of detergent to keep engine cleanliness.
so it's not just a mobil 1 thing and viscosity have nothing to do with it either.

and why are you asking me if it is ok to proceed when you said the flush is not solvent based when you're worried about solvents being harmful to engines?
from that picture i can tell nothing.
*
Well, I dunno, just in case theres something i need to be cautious of using detergent based flushing...alright then, will proceed to flush it tomorrow.. nod.gif
PedangGila
post Mar 3 2015, 12:35 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Mar 2 2015, 09:17 PM)
you'll need to be more specific - killed which oil?
also i don't baby my tranny if you've seen my past videos on how i gear grind the tranny

and proton? lol.
maybe you can go email them.
*
That motul 300v oil. Or are you just pushing to see if it can go 10k oci?
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post Mar 3 2015, 12:40 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Mar 3 2015, 12:35 PM)
That motul 300v oil. Or are you just pushing to see if it can go 10k oci?
*
That oil is fine, nothing about it was killed.
It went over 10k km just fine.
PedangGila
post Mar 3 2015, 01:11 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Mar 3 2015, 12:40 PM)
That oil is fine,  nothing about it was killed.
It went over 10k km just fine.
*
Blackstone recommend to cut at 6k, reading the report at page one.
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post Mar 3 2015, 02:06 PM

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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Mar 3 2015, 01:11 PM)
Blackstone recommend to cut at 6k, reading the report at page one.
*
because of higher iron wear (again, in the ppm, at microscopic levels) most likely due to 2 Sepang track days and all the while hard driving on the engine.

with 3.7 TBN, it is perfectly fine to run it 10k km (or even more) anyways.
as they have mentioned on their website, it is their recommendation and the decision is ultimately up to the owners.
GamersFamilia
post Mar 3 2015, 08:29 PM

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bought it today for my toyota camry 2.0e TOTAL quartz ineo mc3 5w-40 fully synthetic 5L from tesco kepong rm129
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izso
post Mar 4 2015, 07:21 AM

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Quazcolt : I came across an interesting situation with a friends car.

He discovered that the Amsoil oil he's using takes longer to warm up on startup compared to the TRD Motul oil he was on earlier. Any thoughts on why and how'd that affect the car?
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post Mar 5 2015, 06:21 PM

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QUOTE(izso @ Mar 4 2015, 07:21 AM)
He discovered that the Amsoil oil he's using takes longer to warm up on startup compared to the TRD Motul oil he was on earlier. Any thoughts on why and how'd that affect the car?
*
no idea bro, warming up is non issue on any of the 4 cars i maintain.

there's probably few variables to get sorted out:
viscosity and base stock, maybe you can list those out?
izso
post Mar 6 2015, 03:45 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Mar 5 2015, 06:21 PM)
no idea bro, warming up is non issue on any of the 4 cars i maintain.

there's probably few variables to get sorted out:
viscosity and base stock, maybe you can list those out?
*
Both are 5W40 and both are group III base stock. Or so the manufacturers claim. Amsoil is group III right? Or was it IV. Anyway the TRD Motul range is group III for sure.

This post has been edited by izso: Mar 6 2015, 03:46 PM
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post Mar 6 2015, 06:02 PM

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QUOTE(izso @ Mar 6 2015, 03:45 PM)
Both are 5W40 and both are group III base stock. Or so the manufacturers claim. Amsoil is group III right? Or was it IV. Anyway the TRD Motul range is group III for sure.
*
Which particular amsoil btw? OE? XL? signature series? dominators?
In general, amsoil afaik uses a blend of group 3/4. with the higher end lineup being more PAO based.

then again in modern day engine oil, the bottom line performance parameters (eg: API cert, VI, actual viscosity, NOACK, HTHS etc) would matter more than mere group 3/4/5.

on the motul, it's really hard to dig for info aside this:
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1357720221
doesn't tell much beside it having *decent* TBN, a little poor on a the VI despite being an "easy" xw40 range.
it definitely isn't API SM but then again as the pdf (assuming 8/10 on the bottom right corner of the document is august 2010) is very dated and it could have been certified/licensed before.

Motul websites also don't list this product on most of their regions sweat.gif

now back to the car warming up:
is this really an issue? my take is that warm up is only a small portion of a car operation and it is done in like what, 5 minutes or something?

either dyno both EO or stick with the conventional butt dyno i guess?
or pricing, price vs performance.
PedangGila
post Mar 8 2015, 05:26 PM

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There's no such thing as high performance oil filter? Ive tried Works Engineering but cant really gauge its performance due to miscommunication.
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post Mar 9 2015, 01:25 PM

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Got this engine oil unopened at Serdang for someone who need it as the rating is not suitable for my own use.

PM me offer.
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post Mar 10 2015, 07:57 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Mar 6 2015, 06:02 PM)
Which particular amsoil btw? OE? XL? signature series? dominators?
In general, amsoil afaik uses a blend of group 3/4. with the higher end lineup being more PAO based.

then again in modern day engine oil, the bottom line performance parameters (eg: API cert, VI, actual viscosity, NOACK, HTHS etc) would matter more than mere group 3/4/5.

on the motul, it's really hard to dig for info aside this:
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1357720221
doesn't tell much beside it having *decent* TBN, a little poor on a the VI despite being an "easy" xw40 range.
it definitely isn't API SM but then again as the pdf (assuming 8/10 on the bottom right corner of the document is august 2010) is very dated and it could have been certified/licensed before.

Motul websites also don't list this product on most of their regions sweat.gif

now back to the car warming up:
is this really an issue? my take is that warm up is only a small portion of a car operation and it is done in like what, 5 minutes or something?

either dyno both EO or stick with the conventional butt dyno i guess?
or pricing, price vs performance.
*
I didn't get the Amsoil model so I can't tell you what he's on. Anyway I couldn't find any info on the Motul TRD either.

And I somewhat disagree with the warming up not being an issue. The longer it takes to warm up, the more wear there is although insignificant - wear is wear. And it also means I can't gun the car earlier mahh.. I'd prefer the oil get up to spec as quickly as possible. No?

In the case of my friends car, low temp thermostat doesn't help the cause. And he's paranoid about the knocking he's seeing when cold (FC Commander shows that apparently).
TSQuazacolt
post Mar 10 2015, 08:06 AM

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QUOTE(izso @ Mar 10 2015, 07:57 AM)
I didn't get the Amsoil model so I can't tell you what he's on. Anyway I couldn't find any info on the Motul TRD either.

And I somewhat disagree with the warming up not being an issue. The longer it takes to warm up, the more wear there is although insignificant - wear is wear. And it also means I can't gun the car earlier mahh.. I'd prefer the oil get up to spec as quickly as possible. No?

In the case of my friends car, low temp thermostat doesn't help the cause. And he's paranoid about the knocking he's seeing when cold (FC Commander shows that apparently).
*
well, considering modern engine oils, you know how some of them clings really hard on the engine compartments and what not right?
like castrol magnatec advertisements lol.

the only time this may not be the case is the car has never started for weeks and the oil completely flows to the oil pan/sump; And even then, beyond the first minute or so all engine compartments should be properly lubricated.

Supposedly, the theory is that as engine parts expand (albeit very minor, especially in modern engine tolerances) due to heat, you would get more friction that's thankfully countered by supposedly higher flow rate of warmed up/heated up oil that's more fluid than it is being cold.
is this what you're getting at?

if so, low viscosity oils and the VII of modern day engine oils easily counteracts the need to "warm up the engine oil".
not to mention, notice how almost all modern day engine requires 0w20 anyways, and SAE is going to make 0w16 official within this/next year.
izso
post Mar 10 2015, 09:03 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Mar 10 2015, 08:06 AM)
well, considering modern engine oils, you know how some of them clings really hard on the engine compartments and what not right?
like castrol magnatec advertisements lol.

the only time this may not be the case is the car has never started for weeks and the oil completely flows to the oil pan/sump; And even then, beyond the first minute or so all engine compartments should be properly lubricated.

Supposedly, the theory is that as engine parts expand (albeit very minor, especially in modern engine tolerances) due to heat, you would get more friction that's thankfully countered by supposedly higher flow rate of warmed up/heated up oil that's more fluid than it is being cold.
is this what you're getting at?

if so, low viscosity oils and the VII of modern day engine oils easily counteracts the need to "warm up the engine oil".
not to mention, notice how almost all modern day engine requires 0w20 anyways, and SAE is going to make 0w16 official within this/next year.
*
Hmm.. true.

Well then, it still boils down to the knocking my friend was observing when cold. That can't be good for the car regardless of oil technology! The faster it reaches optimum temp, the lesser the knocking. Which is weird. How the hell does one tune a car to run only at a certain temperature range? Or why would it knock when cold?
TSQuazacolt
post Mar 10 2015, 11:19 AM

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QUOTE(izso @ Mar 10 2015, 09:03 AM)
Hmm.. true.

Well then, it still boils down to the knocking my friend was observing when cold. That can't be good for the car regardless of oil technology! The faster it reaches optimum temp, the lesser the knocking. Which is weird. How the hell does one tune a car to run only at a certain temperature range? Or why would it knock when cold?
*
then it could be something related to the viscosity of the EO being used, or even mechanical/engine problems.
knocking (assuming pre detonation, how can you pre detonate something when everything is supposedly cold?) on cold is something that's very rare and i would lean more towards engine issues such as ignition timing and what not.

if your knocking is merely noise such as tappet noise, it will still fall down to using the viscosity, or proper valve clearance adjustments (if available).
most modern self adjusting valve clearance like my 4B10, no choice la, noisy as fuck as if i'm on a friggin diesel engine.
warm up or cold also same stupid "tappet" noise lol.

car "tuning" to a certain temperature range is a thing of the past.
most modern car specs/tolerances are so tight there's no room for "heat expansions" so you can't simply have "2 specs" (hot/cold) per say.
one of the example would be my 4g15 vs 4b10, 4g15 have hot/cold specs on many settings such as the carb, valve clearance, etc while 4b10, i think the only thing that mattered is the coolant/oil levels. (yes i know there's the exception if you're doing remapping to accommodate MIVEC timings on cold etc.)

personal advise: find out the EXACT source of the knocking, as well as performing UOA and see if there are increased metal wears assuming there's no visible ones upon oil drain. consider having a "filtration" on your oil drain just so you can catch any visible wear/particles, as UOA metal particles are in the microscopic level.
that's assuming your friend is really paranoid/perfectionist, and willing to spend la laugh.gif
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post Mar 10 2015, 02:58 PM

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QUOTE(izso @ Mar 10 2015, 09:03 AM)
Hmm.. true.

Well then, it still boils down to the knocking my friend was observing when cold. That can't be good for the car regardless of oil technology! The faster it reaches optimum temp, the lesser the knocking. Which is weird. How the hell does one tune a car to run only at a certain temperature range? Or why would it knock when cold?
*
Knock when cold is more a tuning issue and has nothing to do with the engine oil. Engine oil and coolant temp does not reflect the heat in the combustion chamber. The closest you can to measuring combustion is through the exhaust gas. If your friends car knocks when cold, that is more of a tuning issue than oil.

During cold starts the ECU will ignore most of the sensors and rely on a fixed fuel mapping. That is part was most probably tuned wrong. Your question should not be "How the hell does one tune a car to run only at a certain temperature range".. it should be "How did they get cold start tuning wrong."
TSQuazacolt
post Mar 10 2015, 03:11 PM

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QUOTE(sleepwalker @ Mar 10 2015, 02:58 PM)
Knock when cold is more a tuning issue and has nothing to do with the engine oil. Engine oil and coolant temp does not reflect the heat in the combustion chamber. The closest you can to measuring combustion is through the exhaust gas. If your friends car knocks when cold, that is more of a tuning issue than oil.

During cold starts the ECU will ignore most of the sensors and rely on a fixed fuel mapping. That is part was most probably tuned wrong. Your question should not be "How the hell does one tune a car to run only at a certain temperature range".. it should be "How did they get cold start tuning wrong."
*
ah this is definitely a much better reply/perspective at things.

much thanks notworthy.gif
izso
post Mar 11 2015, 07:37 AM

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QUOTE(sleepwalker @ Mar 10 2015, 02:58 PM)
Knock when cold is more a tuning issue and has nothing to do with the engine oil. Engine oil and coolant temp does not reflect the heat in the combustion chamber. The closest you can to measuring combustion is through the exhaust gas. If your friends car knocks when cold, that is more of a tuning issue than oil.

During cold starts the ECU will ignore most of the sensors and rely on a fixed fuel mapping. That is part was most probably tuned wrong. Your question should not be "How the hell does one tune a car to run only at a certain temperature range".. it should be "How did they get cold start tuning wrong."
*
Oh. Thanks, will pass on the message. I know nuts about tuning.


Quazacolt : His is a Toyota, auto-adjusting tappets (forgot what the actual terminology is for the thingy) and the knocking is observed on the FC Commander. Not audible noise from the engine.
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post Mar 11 2015, 10:27 AM

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QUOTE(izso @ Mar 11 2015, 07:37 AM)
Oh. Thanks, will pass on the message. I know nuts about tuning.
Quazacolt : His is a Toyota, auto-adjusting tappets (forgot what the actual terminology is for the thingy) and the knocking is observed on the FC Commander. Not audible noise from the engine.
*
so really pre-detonation (knocking) la?
i'd go with sifu sleepwalker then nod.gif
aljoy
post Mar 12 2015, 11:54 AM

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Every morning when I start my car, it gives rattling & shaking noise at the exhaust for about 20 seconds. Whilst the Rpm needle is also shaking a little up & a little down. The exhaust blows air (not visible smoke) like a hiccup for that 20 seconds. After that, the Rpm needle & exhaust sounds turn to normal & stabilize.

Dear all sifus, what is the real problem? Can someone clarify?
(Car is Altis 1zz Fe).
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post Mar 12 2015, 11:57 AM

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QUOTE(aljoy @ Mar 12 2015, 11:54 AM)
Every morning when I start my car, it gives rattling & shaking noise at the exhaust for about 20 seconds. Whilst the Rpm needle is also shaking a little up & a little down. The exhaust blows air (not visible smoke) like a hiccup for that 20 seconds. After that, the Rpm needle & exhaust sounds turn to normal & stabilize.

Dear all sifus, what is the real problem?  Can someone clarify?
(Car is Altis 1zz Fe).
*
out of this topic:
make sure your cold start tuning/mapping is done properly
make sure no leaks/mechanical damage/failure.

in this topic:
consider using thinner viscosity engine oil that your engine/manufacturer recommends/allows.
AhBoy~~
post Mar 12 2015, 12:01 PM

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can I mix old engine oil (opened but unused) with new one when changing engine oil
TSQuazacolt
post Mar 12 2015, 12:07 PM

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QUOTE(AhBoy~~ @ Mar 12 2015, 12:01 PM)
can I mix old engine oil (opened but unused) with new one when changing engine oil
*
within 1-2 year time should be no issue.
do observe if the oil is still flowing normally with no material/solids separated/floating around.
aljoy
post Mar 12 2015, 01:34 PM

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Thank you Quazacolt.
far1470
post Mar 16 2015, 01:50 AM

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Saw all this fully synthetic engine oil under promotion at Tesco until 18 March 2015. Normal price was RM 219 for all four engine oil. Promo price RM 129. Save RM 90. thumbup.gif

Too bad just collect my car earlier this month which under warranty. Can't use engine oil other than the one sell at service center. cry.gif

This post has been edited by far1470: Mar 16 2015, 01:51 AM
t1231
post Mar 21 2015, 03:36 PM

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hi all, just saw Tesco Puchong selling semi synthetic oil 4W40 @rm75:

1. Mobile 5L
2. Shell 5L
3. Castrol 4L

offer a few days only.

I bought Mobil Super 2000 X1 semi syn. 5L manufactured Oct 2014.

Can anyone interpret the symbols from the two photos attached?


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image Attached Image
chemistry101
post Mar 22 2015, 12:35 AM

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QUOTE(t1231 @ Mar 21 2015, 03:36 PM)
hi all, just saw Tesco Puchong selling semi synthetic oil 4W40 @rm75:

1. Mobile 5L
2. Shell 5L
3. Castrol 4L

offer a few days only.

I bought Mobil Super 2000 X1 semi syn. 5L manufactured Oct 2014.

Can anyone interpret the symbols from the two photos attached?
*
Look like symbols of multi languages. For example, D is Deutsch.
t1231
post Mar 22 2015, 07:17 AM

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QUOTE(chemistry101 @ Mar 22 2015, 12:35 AM)
Look like symbols of multi languages. For example, D is Deutsch.
*
oh yeah, it has to be.

at photo 2, there's a line ACEA A3/B3; API SL. Is this much inferior to SM and SN?
shinjite
post Mar 22 2015, 09:17 PM

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Currently me using motul h-tech 100 plus 10w40 for testing biggrin.gif

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