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Engine Oil Reviews/Technical talk v2, Everything Automotive lubricants/fluids

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TSQuazacolt	Aug 5 2014, 12:10 PM, updated 2w ago Show posts by this member only \| Post #1
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	Sort of a V2. Considering the departure of Technical talk sub-forum, F&F forum is lacking in technical threads/postings that are derived on logic/facts, with reference materials/links/documents and what not. Really missed those days and hence I hope that with the new thread we can head to a similar direction and have everyone benefit from it. Useful information/Links: VXJH0xF2UuI M5W2znwFXeg tYkg0oDUXs8 0IqLRhxdoGg l-zDt9FGJi8 Quick guide thanks to upontheriversky to get most people started: QUOTE 1) viscosity at 40 and 100 - the lower the number, the thinner the oil, the better the lubrication. from here, we may sometimes see 0w30 can be much thinner than 10w30. 2) Viscosity index - oil ability to behave at rated viscosity at wide range of temperatures. Higher number means higher viscosity stability. important for high heat engine - turbos and high rev NA. lower number means, the viscosity will change a lot from what stated at the back of bottle at different oil temperature than 40 and 100 celcius so it is not good. 3) NOACK volatility - oil weight loss due to evaporation, the number is in percentage. the lower the better. important for turbos coz even branded oil may have high NOACK number which contributes to oil evaporation even in no-leak engines. As oil evaporates, the lighter weight will give up first, leaving the heavier oil so oil becomes thicker and less performance. 4) High temp/high shear viscosity - oil ability to sustain the mentioned condition, the higher the better. most important for turbos and racing engines. 5) Total Base Number - this is the most important feature for all average users like me to see whether the oil can actually be used for long time or not. this is the reserved alkalinity to resist fuel dilution of engine oil from combustion. Fuel dilution makes the oil acidic and therefore oxidized faster. The higher the better. Higher TBN also usually means the oil has lots of detergent which is good for engine cleanliness. Amsoil has the highest as far as i know. So there is no need for rigid classification of fully syn has to be changed at 10k, semi at 7k and so on, look at the TBN and do ur own comparison. Whatever close to 10 is good, higher is best and lower is so-so only. minimum would be 7-8 as dictated by SAE if im not mistaken To sum up, 0w20 oil may be very thin but if the Viscosity Index and NOACK is really good, u wont experience as much oil loss or bad engine wear as compared to 10w30 having really bad NOACK and Viscosity Index. The specs are there, we just need to learn how to interpret so that we can all stop beating the bush when it comes to what oil is suitable for our application. For enthusiast/speed chaser: - pay attention to all specs mentioned above For average daily drive and normal maintenance: - pay particular attention to Total Base Number If the brand of oil you are comparing does not provide any of the info above, it can simply means that the oil did not pass the test or the test result is not impressive that they hide it so people would still buy. We wont be able to say its bad until we see bad test numbers, so hide it and call it good stuff, people will still buy and call it good. Its all about sales in the end for example, try see castrol oil spec whether they have half of the specs i mentioned above and see amsoil, redline and torco specs on the web, these branded oil have nothing to hide The above is exactly why i stress on proper certification (eg: API) and proper lab analysis/testing/data sheets/technical specs. Wiki on Engine Oil http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil API specifications http://www.api.org/certification-programs/...NGLISH_2013.pdf http://www.oilspecifications.org/api_eolcs.php API Engine Oil Classifications (from infineum) https://www.infineum.com/media/80723/api-en...sifications.pdf How much does it cost/royalty fee to get an engine oil certified? Full documentation on API Licensing/certification/tests ILSAC GF-5 specifications: http://www.gf-5.com/uploads/File/ILSAC_GF-...22-09_final.pdf http://www.gf-5.com/uploads/File/Final-GF5...ent-1-23-08.pdf http://www.gf-5.com/uploads/File/API%20SN%20Discussion.pdf PQI America (good site with oil analysis from EO bought off shelves at random) http://www.pqiamerica.com/ http://www.pqiamerica.com/resourceroom/apiserviceclass.html Car bible http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html BITOG (bob is the oil guy website/forums) http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm oil shearing: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/oilshear.htm viscosity: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/putting-the-...into-viscosity/ esters: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/esters-in-sy...tic-lubricants/ Acceptable levels of wear/guides on oil analysis http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/whatisoilanalysis.htm Blackstone Labs - one of the more popular labs used by many BITOG members for their oil analysis http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ explanation on BSL reports: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php API Licencing directory query (very useful to determine whether an Engine oil is actually certified) https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsSearch old v1 link: https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1438525 nostalgia lane: https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2072678 props to upontheriversky upon taking the initiative to learn and debunk on old theories/traditional thoughts. noticed how many of us were young/unknowing (including myself!) and this is me staying true to my words https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=47469990 some information i have compiled on gear lubrication (for the F5MBB only though): https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=66977922 some GTL discussion (shell/pennzoil pureplus): https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=68597152 lol esters: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ester#List_of_ester_odorants Motorcycle / Bike Section main website of JASO: http://www.jalos.or.jp/ Motorcycle 4T section of JASO: http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/jaso_e-2.htm JASO certification application manual, includes classification details and test methods etc: http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV1105.pdf List of JASO certified lubricants: http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV_LIST.pdf updated 1st February 2016, so most of the previously printed lubricant on the market may not match this list external information for JASO: http://www.oilspecifications.org/jaso.php further details for JASO MA/MB classifications: http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/..._MA_JASO_MB.php Motorcycle / Bike Front fork/Suspensions fluid (or oil) viscosity charts: http://www.quazacolt.com/bike/suspensions/...m_Transmoto.pdf http://www.quazacolt.com/bike/suspensions/...ension_oils.pdf Motorcycle / Bike chain videos: Myth of chain lube - wear and tear explained: » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « YEE0KVRwGUY WBW chain lube application reviews: » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « taSc61XzufQ Chain lube research paper - comparing wax, PTFE, drip oil and un-lubed chain wear: http://eprints.whiterose.ac.uk/4869/1/leepm7.pdf bike chain videos and research paper links thanks to forum member alexei Finally a Motorcycle UOA Torco T-4SR product page and spec sheet https://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/t4sr.html https://www.torcousa.com/technology/T-4SR.pdf » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « related post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=92734166 This post has been edited by Quazacolt: May 20 2019, 05:45 PM
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 5 2014, 12:10 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	For the old review/feedback format, lets try something new: QUOTE Brand/model: Motul H-Tech 100 Plus Official website/link: https://www.motul.com/my/en/products/oils-l...viscosity%5D=33 Technical data sheet: https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1339480271 MSDS if available: Motul requires email details API license directory if available: https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...520100%2520plus Viscosity: 5w30 Price: RM180/4 Liter Vehicle used on: Proton Iswara 4g15 AT, Nissan Sentra N16 AT Comments/Feedback: Satisfying, able to withstand extended OCI (oil change intervals) easily without any performance degradation even until the very end prior to draining. I've ran 14-16k km/6months to around a year of OCI without issues. Engine internals are still sparkling clean on the over 300k km year 1999 iswara, while the 170k km year 2007 Sentra did not show any signs of sludge build up whatsoever. High RPM/red lines are still smooth and without any noticeable issue even towards the very end of the extended OCI. Take note that both cars have their oil filters replaced halfway of their respective engine oil life cycle. Copy paste template: CODE [B]Brand/model:[/B] [B]Official website/link:[/B] [B]Technical data sheet:[/B] [B]MSDS if available:[/B] [B]API license directory if available:[/B] [B]Viscosity:[/B] [B]Price:[/B] [B]Vehicle used on:[/B] [B]Comments/Feedback:[/B] Ok i have to park some UOA samples here as i reached image posting limitation per post So for now, anything GT86 related will sit here. Quazacolt's UOA (used oil analysis) samples: Toyota GT86 Engine Unknown oil that came with Recond car » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « Motul 300v 0w20 » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « Penrite Racing 0 0w20 » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=103864779 additional Q&A with blackstone Labs please refer here Penrite Racing 5 5w30 » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « Toyota Genuine Motor Oil 0w20 » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « rare sample of Toyota Service center TGMO! (toyota genuine motor oil as the westerners commonly call it) Transmission Motul Gear 300 75w90 reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=92721706 » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=103864779 additional Q&A with blackstone Labs please refer here » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Mar 23 2022, 04:19 PM
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 5 2014, 12:15 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #3
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	Other information Viscosity converting table: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/viscosit...rter-d_413.html Torco's API certification screencapture: https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...anyName%3Dtorco Torco replies to my query: » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « "I have tried to look up your certifications towards API, however i can't seem to find it. Of course you guys have made many claims on exceeding the API standards/requirements, however thats your words against anyone else's and i believe it would be more of a peace of mind to know that there is an actual certification backing it up should i use your products. If you guys do have your engine oil certified, could you guys link me some proof on the certification?" QUOTE I apologize for the delay in responding to your email, I really wanted to give you the most informative response that I could and it took a little while longer than I thought in order to find the best way to word all of this for you. I got together with our other sales associate and we were able to put together a more detailed answer with more information for you to post on the forum. Just to give you a little background on the API, they change their specifications every four years as to what the criteria is in order for an oil company to meet the “API specs” and legally be able to put the API seal or donut as it’s sometimes called on a bottle of oil. Years ago, every four years when the new specs would come out they were usually an improvement from the previous spec, meaning an oil company had to put a little more work into meeting the API’s criteria. Well, recently the API has almost been going backwards in a sense when it comes to the additives and PPM’s (parts per million) of certain additives such as zinc, moly, phosphorus, etc……that are required in order to qualify as an API approved oil. The main reason(s) for this is because automotive manufacturers are basically demanding oils that provide better fuel mileage as well as cleaner emissions, which isn’t a bad thing by any means. Now, in order for an oil company to become an API certified oil, basically all that needs to be done it the oil company sends a sample off to the API where they will test and determine whether or not it is in compliance. If that was all it took, I can almost guarantee that pretty much every oil company would have the API certification on their bottles. Well, here is where it gets funky for a lack of a better word. The API charges thousands and I mean thousands of dollars in order to certify the oil and I don’t mean a one time fee, they charge you for each and every oil and viscosity. For example, if we wanted to have our SR-1 oil API approved we would have to have the SR-1 0w20, SR-1 5w30, SR-1 5w40 and so on all approved and we would have to pay for each of those viscosities. It can literally get into the hundreds of thousands by the time everything is said and done. Another reason we choose to not have our oils API certified is because like I mentioned above, the API has lowered the requirements and that would mean we would have to remove a lot of the additives that we use and pride our oils on. Since we are a “high performance” or a “racing oil” company we really need to have those heavy additive packs in each of our oils. In order to become an API certified oil, we would have to cut out all of those additives which really sets us apart from most of the other oil companies. Our MPZ additive pack would have to be removed and that is our main and most popular additive that we use in just about all of our oil. So as you can see, we can safely and legally say our SR-1 High Performance Street oils “meet and exceed” the API specs because they truly do meet and exceed the current API specs…….even though we chose not to go the route of paying to have the API seal applied to our bottle. About 6 years or so ago we did indeed pay to have the API test and approve one of our SR-1 oils…….the 5w30 I believe. We just felt that we really didn’t need to have that done since we are more of a racing oil company. Plus, just because you pay to have the API approve your oil…..its not good forever, you have to send it in for testing and pay the fee every four years. I believe our bottles say exceeds API requirements…….(which they most definitely do) and they all say “intended for racing applications”. I guess the only way for you to 100% see and believe it for yourself would be to do an oil analysis on one of our oils and that would show a breakdown of all the additives and PPM’s. We probably have an old oil analysis somewhere around here and if we do, we can email it to you so you could take a look at it. I really hope this has helped clear some things up and answered some of your questions. If you have any other questions or concerns, please don’t hesitate to ask. the initial reply before the more formatted/detailed one: » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « QUOTE I apologize for taking so long to get back to you! Jason there is really no simple answer to your question. I will first start by giving you a little background on API certified oils. An API certified oil as you know means that it has a certain PPM (Parts Per Million) of different additive components, like Zinc, Phosphorus, and Molly, that it is not aloud to be blow or above. In doing this it certifies that this oils meets the API’s strict regulations. Over the past many years the amount of anti-ware and protection additives aloud in API certified oils has been drastically reduced due to emissions regulations. An API certified oil today is not the same, Nor dose it have the same protection, as an API oil ten years ago. Torco strives to have the highest quality and best performing product possible. In order for us to meet the API criteria we would have to remove and reduce components of our additive pack to what we consider to be an insufficient amount. Torco oils are not API certified because in doing so we would be reducing the quality of our oil. Torco oil is a performance built, racing oriented oil that is built to higher specifications than a standard, passenger car, API certified oil. One example is our racing line of TR-1, SR-1, and SR-5 oils target 1300-1400 PPM of Zinc and Phosphorus, as where a standard API certified oil can not exceed 800 PPM. If you do an oil analysis of one of our racing oils you will find a much higher additive pack than that in an API certified oil. I hope this has helped to answer some of your questions. If you have any other questions or concerns please let me know. Another add on from sifu/staff pertaining Torco's reply QUOTE(sleepwalker @ Jul 31 2012, 03:42 PM) Rather interesting reply from Torco and a lot will think, wow.. definitely good stuff. Then again, if you do a little research into why API has been reducing the amount of zinc in the engine oil, you will understand why Torco can't get the API donut. Check this link to know why API standards have been reducing the zinc content. http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0803sr...il/viewall.html Viscosity does not translate into protection. Film strength provides the protection from shearing but there is no film strength indicator. Viscosity just means the fluids resistances to flow which is another meaning for being thick or thin. A lower viscosity number does not always mean lower protection. Liqui Moly's API certification screencapture: https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...anyName%3Dliqui Liqui Moly replies to my query(in email dialog form): » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « Me: QUOTE Hi Liqui Moly, I would like to inquire if you guys are still licensed/certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API) and is the mentioned API ratings/certification in your products legit? I remembered few years back i have verified that you guys were indeed in the directory however i can no longer find your company/nor your products anymore. (perhaps they have been renamed or i have searched incorrectly?) Appreciate your response in this matter which will restore my confidence in your products, thanks. LM: QUOTE thank you very much for your mail and for your interst in Liqui Moly products. We are a German oil manufacturer and in the German market and arround, there is no API licensing necessary. But we know for the Asian and American market it is very good to have. So wa are in work for API licensing with our "Special Tec" oils, which are very necessary in the Asian market! Sorry, but you have to wait some time, till the licensing is official! If you have any more question, contact us again! Me: QUOTE Thanks for the reply. I believe there are also european standards which Liqui Moly also meets such as ACEA right? Is there any way i can browse ACEA certifications/license directory similar to how i can publicly view API certifications? LM: QUOTE there is no ACEA licensing as at API. The ACEA specifications are the basics for the european car manufacturer specifications. Also some Asian car manufacturer are using the ACEA spcification as basic or own car manufacturer specification! AMSOIL FAQ on API licensing: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible_amsoilFAQ.html research paper on moly/MOS2 http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/report/e-report/00E115e.pdf Some of Quazacolt's (current TS) reviews that covers extended oil change intervals: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=63666846 Iswara that's practicing extended OCI: http://twitpic.com/doro53 https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=65204477 It's currently >70k km and running on Motul H-tech 100 plus xw30 Why should one do UOA? watch the sample/real life experience video » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « oIG_BdsffcU in this video, it shows early detection of coolant leak (head gasket) before the situation gets serious. also note that it was mentioned that there was no visible symptoms in the oil (frothing and what not due to coolant mixing with engine oil) The only way to know, and prevent a hefty engine repair bill, is a UOA additional info for uoa: http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2016/06/10...m-oil-analysis/ niBWrYoC2c4 wfuYHhQzZSk What are acceptable wear levels from UOA samples? Generally, anything under 100ppm, for references: http://www.boucherandjones.com/lubeservices.htm http://www.ppmoiltesting.com/eval1.html Quazacolt's UOA (used oil analysis) samples: engine » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « Transmission » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « prev youtube: cOxRGI8nrRw » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « https://plus.google.com/u/0/+JasonLimQuazac...sts/bhQZhvzXheC https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=72742217 latest related post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=92734166 https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/hm8NizaeCB7 https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69700867 VOA Samples: Courtesy of forumer mayalab Mobil 1 Extended performance 5w30 » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « Mobil 1 Advance 0w40 » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « report explanation http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php Synthetic or mineral/conventional oil? https://gallery.mailchimp.com/f641390cba421...uly_2016.01.pdf you'd be surprised at the results! Engine Oil Additives Here's BSL (Amanda) take on EO additives: QUOTE Some additives do not show up in our tests. For example, we don't test for tungsten as part of our normal test, so we might not see that additive in our sample. We don't normally see any real benefit to running additives, but we don't really see any problems from it either, at least not in our tests. I'm not sure what the additive companies use as their base stock because we're not able to test the base stock in our lab. Our general theory on additives is that the oil already has additives present, so there's not really any benefit to adding more stuff when the oil is already formulated very carefully. But then again, we haven't seen any evidence that they hurt anything, so if you like them, then by all means, keep using them! Maybe once you see your oil analysis results, you'll start to experiment by using additives sometimes and not other times, just to see how the engine does with and without them. Original question from me: » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « QUOTE on the first service i've used additives quite heavily: http://twitpic.com/drv0iv Liqui Moly Ceratec http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produkt...l?Opendocument& & Nano Extreme WS2 http://nanoextremews2.com/ From my understanding ceratec uses ceramic particles and ws2 is basically tungsten disulfide, so are we able to find out the contents through this oil analysis? and whether these additives are useful (or even harmful) to my engine? Moreover I've been told (do correct me if I'm wrong) that most additives are using cheap mineral oil as additive carrier and that could cause sludge and other harmful issues despite using good/reputable synthetic engine oil as a majority. something to read on in regards to WS2 additives: pdf click It's a research/testing done by Millitary. to those interested to know about long OCI: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...opics/1064407/1 some comments from an engine engineer on a mazda forum: QUOTE Boy; a lot of opinions and mis-information here. I am an engine engineer from Detroit with about 30 years of experience, so let me list a few truths: 1. An oil filter will never actually fill-up with contaminants, dirt, etc. unless someone sabotages your engine. There is a lot of capacity in a typical filter cartridge and engines don't really generate that much filterable soot and dirt. Most of the soot is too small to be filtered by anything but a special bypass filter. The real reason we change filters, is that the paper and glue that holds the insides together will not last forever; years, but not forever, and also to get that old oil out of the filter. Use a good quality filter that has a very high efficiency rating in the ASTM spec test. I like the Pure-1 or Bosch filters. 2. Really hard street driving is still a walk-in-the-park compared to the manufacturers standard General Durability tests, where the engine is cycled continuously between peak power and peak torque for hundreds of hours. One exception would be road-racing if you don't have a good oil-cooler and you let the oil temp get above 250F. The real severe-duty as far as oil is concerned is lots of idling and short trips. When you idle, your combustion quality is poorest, so you have extra fuel-dilution. Also in extended idling, your oil temperature rarely get above 150F which is what is needed to drive off fuel and water vapor from the oil. Whenever an engine is running, blowby gasses get past the rings and enter the crankcase where it mixes with the oil. These blowby gasses are exhaust gas, which means it contains a lot of water vapor which when it hits the cold crankcase, condenses into liquid water. The faster you can warm-up your engine (by driving not idling), the sooner you can start to boil-off the water (and fuel) in your crankcase. 3. The main reason why oil turns dark is that the hottest spots in the engine (top of cylinder liners, pistons, exhaust side of head, etc.) slowly "cook" the oil through oxidation. Think of putting cooking oil in a fry pan and overheating it, it will darken. There are other chemical processes that degrade the oil as it mixes with Nitric Oxides in the crankcase. In GDI engines there is also a bit of soot from combustion that gets picked-up by the oil and suspended in solution by the detergents. The soot particles are typically in the sub-micron size, so they just pass-through the filter and are also small enough to not hurt the bearings and other wear surfaces in the engine. Synthetic oil has a lot higher temperature resistance than conventional mineral oils and so it cooks more slowly. 4. The net effect of oil dilution by water and fuel, effects of time at high temperature, and other chemical reactions in the crankcase, mean that eventually the oil will get out-of spec regarding its viscosity and its ability to keep the inside of the engine clean; as the detergent, anti-corrosion, anti-sludge, and anti-foam additive packages wear-out. The quality or age of the oil filter can't change this. If you just follow the manufacturers recommended change interval (or the maintenance computer) you should be on the safe and conservative side. Dave source: http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-20...tml#post1413082 Brake Fluid Comparison of Motul's DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 products: 5.1 https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1335380510 Viscosity at -40°C (-40°F) 820 mm²/s Viscosity at 100°C (212°F) 2.1 mm²/s RBF600 (dot 4) https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1340122148 Viscosity at -40°C (-40°F) 1750 mm²/s Viscosity at 100°C (212°F) 2.5 mm²/s RBF660 (dot 4) https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1340124817 Viscosity at -40 °C (-40 °F) 1698 mm²/s Viscosity at 100 °C (212 °F) 2.59 mm²/s just to make sure everyone is on the same page, similarly with engine oil, it is easier to push thinner liquid, than thicker liquid. for references pertaining viscosity: http://www.dixcel.co.jp/en/subcontent/lite...terature02.html http://www.viscopedia.com/viscosity-tables...ve-brake-fluid/ Specific Car information Myvi EO recommended: API SJ and above 5w30 ~~https://www.dropbox.com/s/hi4gni9fsrg90te/Myvi%20LB%20Specification%20List.pdf?dl=0~~ dropbox link no longer valid (feel free to contribute new link/service manual pdf etc) This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Mar 23 2022, 04:35 PM
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goldfries	Aug 5 2014, 12:26 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #4
40K Club Forum Admin 44,374 posts Joined: Jan 2003	OK pinned.
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 5 2014, 12:27 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #5
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	Converting this post as a first page/pinned post Contributions from friends within GT86 BRZ group Malaysia reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=92714301 GT86 Shell Helix Ultra GTL 5w40 from Giant Promotion (Made in Germany) » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=99008337 GT86 Eneos Sustina 0w20 » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « BRZ that went through valve spring recall and recently very active in track days participation Motul 300v 5w30 » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=103864779 confirming a successful post valve spring replacement with Petronas 7000 0w20 UOA » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « tearing it up hard at the track! with Penrite Racing 5 5w30 » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « Other members UOA sample: alcyon » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « from a friend within GT86 BRZ group Malaysia reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=92714301 Mercedes A45 AMG on Petronas Syntium 7000 » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « reference thread post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=103864779 First FD2 and Royal Purple sample! » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Mar 23 2022, 04:36 PM
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goldfries	Aug 5 2014, 12:27 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #6
40K Club Forum Admin 44,374 posts Joined: Jan 2003	https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1438525 <=-- do include the link to V1 in your 1st post.
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 5 2014, 12:28 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #7
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(goldfries @ Aug 5 2014, 12:27 PM) https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1438525 <=-- do include the link to V1 in your 1st post. oops missed out; done! =edit= everyone else please let me know if i am missing out anything else, or if you'd like to suggest something be pinned on the first page This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Aug 5 2014, 03:27 PM
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Max	Aug 5 2014, 04:39 PM Show posts by this member only \| IPv6 \| Post #8
Regular Senior Member 1,498 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Sepang - Putrajaya - Cyberjaya	must parking here..
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kennywee92	Aug 5 2014, 07:45 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #9
New Member Junior Member 34 posts Joined: Aug 2011	Great work there TS!
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 5 2014, 08:00 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #10
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(kennywee92 @ Aug 5 2014, 07:45 PM) Great work there TS! thanks for the kind words bro, glad that people can benefit from it
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empire23	Aug 5 2014, 08:14 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #11
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	I like the fact that this new threat is more geared towards fluids and lubricants in general. There are a lot of fluids that make a car tick and EO is just one of them and thus having a decent pinned thread to discuss them is definitely a good thing.
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 5 2014, 08:59 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #12
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 5 2014, 08:14 PM) I like the fact that this new threat is more geared towards fluids and lubricants in general. There are a lot of fluids that make a car tick and EO is just one of them and thus having a decent pinned thread to discuss them is definitely a good thing. glad you agree to it too a bit far fetched, but if Malaysians can be more educated on this matter, maybe we can get a demand on UOA, and local labs could lower their pricing! i find it saddening when the cost to perform UOA here is more expensive than me sending over to USA even with FOREX + heavy postage rates (the postage fee is more expensive than converted uoa fee rofl) combined together.
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izso	Aug 5 2014, 09:56 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #13
New Member Junior Member 48 posts Joined: Jun 2005	Fatality : Pennzoil is a cheap and cheerful oil. Not designed for motorsports but quite good for daily consumption since it's cheap and OEM for Toyota. And I got my Eneos Touring expensive cuz bought from... Eneos. My mistake really. LOL.. and 95 is cheap! kalvinkhoo : 5W30 and 10W30 no difference except cold start viscosity. And in Malaysia 5 or 10 doesn't make a difference. In a winter country this would matter.
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 5 2014, 10:34 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #14
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(izso @ Aug 5 2014, 09:56 PM) Fatality : Pennzoil is a cheap and cheerful oil. Not designed for motorsports but quite good for daily consumption since it's cheap and OEM for Toyota. And I got my Eneos Touring expensive cuz bought from... Eneos. My mistake really. LOL.. and 95 is cheap! kalvinkhoo : 5W30 and 10W30 no difference except cold start viscosity. And in Malaysia 5 or 10 doesn't make a difference. In a winter country this would matter. help you link [Fatalit[Y]] kalvinkhoo hmm not even sure if it works with his brackets lol anyways for your future reference: CODE [@[F]atalit[Y]] [@kalvinkhoo] now on pennzoil: 7pO1Fo3-nwQ rfRoCya6kY8 k5ouHkq1_mU they say same wo ANNNNDDDDD it's available at tesco at a bargain: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69341868 pennzoil/shell partnership btw i'd get it in a heartbeat if it's 0w20 lol
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efaceninja	Aug 5 2014, 10:42 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #15
New Member Junior Member 12 posts Joined: Apr 2005	finally a pinned thread on car lubes~~! too bad i finally resorted to strictly comply to my manufacturer's oil until warranty is out.
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izso	Aug 6 2014, 07:54 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #16
New Member Junior Member 48 posts Joined: Jun 2005	QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 5 2014, 10:42 PM) finally a pinned thread on car lubes~~! too bad i finally resorted to strictly comply to my manufacturer's oil until warranty is out. Got the budget? Swap to manufacturers oil, then immediately after that drive to a mechanic and change the oil to your own choice
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efaceninja	Aug 6 2014, 08:37 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #17
New Member Junior Member 12 posts Joined: Apr 2005	QUOTE(izso @ Aug 6 2014, 07:54 AM) Got the budget? Swap to manufacturers oil, then immediately after that drive to a mechanic and change the oil to your own choice Woh, don't have that kind of budget man.
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izso	Aug 6 2014, 08:50 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #18
New Member Junior Member 48 posts Joined: Jun 2005	QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 6 2014, 08:37 AM) Woh, don't have that kind of budget man. In that case what car are you driving? What does the warranty cover? If it's those 3+2 stories where 2 is insurance company coverage, you can forget about ever using your own oil. Insurance coverage is a b****. If it's 3 years manufacturer warranty you might be able to get away with using your own oil at the service center (you have to ask if you can bring your own oil. Some allow)
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kalvinkhoo	Aug 6 2014, 09:50 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #19
Getting Started Junior Member 238 posts Joined: Jul 2008 From: Penang, Malaysia.	BEST!! NOTED!!
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kalvinkhoo	Aug 6 2014, 09:53 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #20
Getting Started Junior Member 238 posts Joined: Jul 2008 From: Penang, Malaysia.	QUOTE(izso @ Aug 5 2014, 09:56 PM) Fatality : Pennzoil is a cheap and cheerful oil. Not designed for motorsports but quite good for daily consumption since it's cheap and OEM for Toyota. And I got my Eneos Touring expensive cuz bought from... Eneos. My mistake really. LOL.. and 95 is cheap! kalvinkhoo : 5W30 and 10W30 no difference except cold start viscosity. And in Malaysia 5 or 10 doesn't make a difference. In a winter country this would matter. oh so the number in-front actually is for the temperature? hmmmm... noob in old i hope u dont mind me asking. QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 5 2014, 10:34 PM) help you link [Fatalit[Y]] kalvinkhoo hmm not even sure if it works with his brackets lol anyways for your future reference: CODE [@[F]atalit[Y]] [@kalvinkhoo] now on pennzoil: they say same wo ANNNNDDDDD it's available at tesco at a bargain: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69341868 pennzoil/shell partnership btw i'd get it in a heartbeat if it's 0w20 lol Thnaks alot! This post has been edited by kalvinkhoo: Aug 6 2014, 09:53 AM
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 6 2014, 10:52 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #21
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(kalvinkhoo @ Aug 6 2014, 09:53 AM) oh so the number in-front actually is for the temperature? hmmmm... noob in old i hope u dont mind me asking. read this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#Grades
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izso	Aug 7 2014, 07:59 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #22
New Member Junior Member 48 posts Joined: Jun 2005	QUOTE(kalvinkhoo @ Aug 6 2014, 09:53 AM) oh so the number in-front actually is for the temperature? hmmmm... noob in old i hope u dont mind me asking. Aiyo.. go google "bobtheoilguy". His explanation is the easiest to understand. I wrote something about this sometime ago in ZTH : http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/fea...ngine-oils.html It's not quite temperature. It's the viscosity index when cold. The other number after "w" is the viscosity index at 100 degrees Celsius (usually means warmed up engine temp, not quite but close). There's a lot to learn about engine oils. Do your research and buy based on your budget.
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empire23	Aug 7 2014, 01:02 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #23
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	I've got 4 cans of 300V on the way to service my Evo and a bottle of Penrite 10Tenths for flush with Liquimoly flushing fluid. Only because I've neglected to service the car for a bit due to being onsite and my housemates driving it around for a bit. Also doing the 1500km break in service for my BMW. But this time with strong fluid that resists crankcase dilution because the N54 and N55 are very famous engines for utterly destroying even the toughest engine oils due to the ultra high pressure direct injection it uses. This might be a tough one to figure out.
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 7 2014, 06:08 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #24
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 7 2014, 01:02 PM) I've got 4 cans of 300V on the way to service my Evo and a bottle of Penrite 10Tenths for flush with Liquimoly flushing fluid. Only because I've neglected to service the car for a bit due to being onsite and my housemates driving it around for a bit. Also doing the 1500km break in service for my BMW. But this time with strong fluid that resists crankcase dilution because the N54 and N55 are very famous engines for utterly destroying even the toughest engine oils due to the ultra high pressure direct injection it uses. This might be a tough one to figure out. what are you planning for the BMW? considering "1500km break in service", new car? the dealer don't restrict outside EO?
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empire23	Aug 7 2014, 06:33 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #25
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 7 2014, 06:08 PM) what are you planning for the BMW? considering "1500km break in service", new car? the dealer don't restrict outside EO? BMW M cars come with requirement for a 1500/1600km oil and filter change. They call it the "break in" service. BMW does recommend Castrol, but I can use any oil I want them to put in as long as it meets requirements. But the challenges of a direct injection engine are unique due to fuel dilution causing viscosity loss. There are a lot of recommendations for Renewable Lube's BioSyn made for the Audi RS4 engine (another DI engine), but I rather not ship 20 litres of lube on freight. Also reading the N55HP's technical documentation also shows that under low loading, the Bosch ECU allows the engine oil temp to rise to about 130 Celsius in order to thin itself and lower parasitic drag, plus it also engages lean burn which also increases the cylinder temperature. It saves fuel, but remember that for every 5 to 10 celsius, your oil oxidization increases by 100 percent. I'm not sure what to consider that is locally available. Might have to switch to Shell V-Power which has lubricity modifiers in the time being while thinking about it.
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 7 2014, 08:56 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #26
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 7 2014, 06:33 PM) BMW M cars come with requirement for a 1500/1600km oil and filter change. They call it the "break in" service. BMW does recommend Castrol, but I can use any oil I want them to put in as long as it meets requirements. But the challenges of a direct injection engine are unique due to fuel dilution causing viscosity loss. There are a lot of recommendations for Renewable Lube's BioSyn made for the Audi RS4 engine (another DI engine), but I rather not ship 20 litres of lube on freight. Also reading the N55HP's technical documentation also shows that under low loading, the Bosch ECU allows the engine oil temp to rise to about 130 Celsius in order to thin itself and lower parasitic drag, plus it also engages lean burn which also increases the cylinder temperature. It saves fuel, but remember that for every 5 to 10 celsius, your oil oxidization increases by 100 percent. I'm not sure what to consider that is locally available. Might have to switch to Shell V-Power which has lubricity modifiers in the time being while thinking about it. ah that's quite similar to almost every car brands in Malaysia although ours on 1k km instead. I wish the same can be said about the bolded part in Malaysia. Dealers here are just wanting excuses to void your warranty wow nice technical details on the N55HP; I think the 4B1x engages similar operation considering the AFR from dyno charts. Not to mention the engine idles really hot and if you're speeding (could be just more ram air to cool the engine compartment) it cools down quite a bit more. Not sure on the oil temps since i haven't gotten my OBD scanners and i don't think on stock there's oil temperature sensors. (will have to verify on this at a later date) btw if you're looking for lubricity modifiers, have you tried out Torco's RCL? that could be just what you're looking for, at probably much cheaper price comparing to v power daily.
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empire23	Aug 8 2014, 08:05 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #27
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 7 2014, 08:56 PM) ah that's quite similar to almost every car brands in Malaysia although ours on 1k km instead. I wish the same can be said about the bolded part in Malaysia. Dealers here are just wanting excuses to void your warranty wow nice technical details on the N55HP; I think the 4B1x engages similar operation considering the AFR from dyno charts. Not to mention the engine idles really hot and if you're speeding (could be just more ram air to cool the engine compartment) it cools down quite a bit more. Not sure on the oil temps since i haven't gotten my OBD scanners and i don't think on stock there's oil temperature sensors. (will have to verify on this at a later date) btw if you're looking for lubricity modifiers, have you tried out Torco's RCL? that could be just what you're looking for, at probably much cheaper price comparing to v power daily. The 4B11 is generally a bit hot, you'll generally see a rise in temps after you slow down after a long run. I don't believe the engine runs lean as the 4B11s are notorious for running overly rich to keep the cylinders cool. That's why you tend to get a lot of extra performance if you try and tune them with the "advance and lean till knock" method. I don't recall an oil pressure and temp sensor on the 4B11, so you might have to drill and tap your own. I think chucking in Torco's RCL which is oil soluble will compound my issues further, plus I believe it is for a MPFI engine rather than GDI. I think the best solution is either to get a fuel like V-Power that resists being absorbed into the oil or an oil that resists absorption. I'd prefer the oil solution, because I'm so cheap I usually fill the car up with RON91 Ethanol blend if I don't plan on going fast
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 8 2014, 09:25 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #28
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 8 2014, 08:05 AM) The 4B11 is generally a bit hot, you'll generally see a rise in temps after you slow down after a long run. I don't believe the engine runs lean as the 4B11s are notorious for running overly rich to keep the cylinders cool. That's why you tend to get a lot of extra performance if you try and tune them with the "advance and lean till knock" method. I don't recall an oil pressure and temp sensor on the 4B11, so you might have to drill and tap your own. I think chucking in Torco's RCL which is oil soluble will compound my issues further, plus I believe it is for a MPFI engine rather than GDI. I think the best solution is either to get a fuel like V-Power that resists being absorbed into the oil or an oil that resists absorption. I'd prefer the oil solution, because I'm so cheap I usually fill the car up with RON91 Ethanol blend if I don't plan on going fast oh ya now that you mentioned that, on stock form it does run as rich as 11.x ish on the AFR upon high rpm/high load good point on the RCL, probably something i should take note if i am moving on to GDI in the future btw: or https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/hm8NizaeCB7 if you're having difficulty viewing from my website will write more but first gotta goto office =edit= may check out http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php for explanations on the report Anyways regarding the comments about fuel, because they encourage the oil sample to be taken hot (eg: driving the car for 10-20minutes/up to temperature) to avoid fuel dilutions that may affect the test results. If that cannot be done and a cold sample have to be taken (eg: oil change at proton SC that lets you sit from morning 8am to 12pm ) then it should be mentioned to BSL so that they may take note of the potentially higher fuel % found in the oil sample instead of pointing it out as an issue. for my case as it turns out to be a non issue as fuel was less than 0.5% As for the metal parts, sure, it's nothing unusual as per the report comments, however i did spent quite a lot on additives (namely LM Ceratec and nanoextreme ws2) expecting that wear would be on the absolute minimum considering the claims of respective additives. This lab report either proves me wrong or i'm just expecting way too much Granted yes, sub 10k km is still a very early stage of an engine's life and there are still some breaking in of components, however looking at the universal average on metal wear it's just disappointing. AMSOIL clearly proven it's claim, 6.6TBN after 8500 km of very hard driving, constant red lines when some engine oil even STARTS OUT with around 6 TBN (even torco SR1 that's also APN SN/GF5 certified: http://www.torcousa.com/technology/TDS_SR-1%20MotorOil.pdf ) Their 25k Miles claim does ring some truth in it Hell, look at the calcium value, that's generally detergent/dispersant commonly used in EO additives. Most EO (unless you're on diesel/HDEO) don't even start out that high much less a 8500km used EO Viscosity is ROCK SOLID, hell it's even thicker than it's original datasheet: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf considering contaminants and fuel dillution that generally thins out EO viscosity when subjected to heat (likewise thicker on cold, hence morning/cold start sluggish performance on some vehicles on certain engine oils ) i do suspect it could be a case of diluted additives into the oil, but who knows. (the nano ceramic particles are quite viscous, not sure if the viscosity test took that into account) Now for this interesting bit: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manganese#Manganese_in_gasoline i'm wondering if it's due to the use of RCL, Octane boosters (used amsoil dominators and torco's accelerator) or it comes as a natural additive in our Petronas Primax fuel. Hell, it could even be the Techron additive i used previously although http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...t&Number=273248 & http://www.techron.com/what-is-techron/proven-science.aspx doesn't seem to indicate so. i'll stop on those car "drugs" for the time being (never used any after my service/oil drain) and see how it turns out on next lab test Also, here's BSL (Amanda) take on EO additives: QUOTE Some additives do not show up in our tests. For example, we don't test for tungsten as part of our normal test, so we might not see that additive in our sample. We don't normally see any real benefit to running additives, but we don't really see any problems from it either, at least not in our tests. I'm not sure what the additive companies use as their base stock because we're not able to test the base stock in our lab. Our general theory on additives is that the oil already has additives present, so there's not really any benefit to adding more stuff when the oil is already formulated very carefully. But then again, we haven't seen any evidence that they hurt anything, so if you like them, then by all means, keep using them! Maybe once you see your oil analysis results, you'll start to experiment by using additives sometimes and not other times, just to see how the engine does with and without them. Original question from me: » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « QUOTE on the first service i've used additives quite heavily: http://twitpic.com/drv0iv Liqui Moly Ceratec http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produkt...l?Opendocument& & Nano Extreme WS2 http://nanoextremews2.com/ From my understanding ceratec uses ceramic particles and ws2 is basically tungsten disulfide, so are we able to find out the contents through this oil analysis? and whether these additives are useful (or even harmful) to my engine? Moreover I've been told (do correct me if I'm wrong) that most additives are using cheap mineral oil as additive carrier and that could cause sludge and other harmful issues despite using good/reputable synthetic engine oil as a majority. This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Aug 8 2014, 03:07 PM
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kalvinkhoo	Aug 8 2014, 09:39 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #29
Getting Started Junior Member 238 posts Joined: Jul 2008 From: Penang, Malaysia.	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 6 2014, 10:52 AM) read this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#Grades QUOTE(izso @ Aug 7 2014, 07:59 AM) Aiyo.. go google "bobtheoilguy". His explanation is the easiest to understand. I wrote something about this sometime ago in ZTH : http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/fea...ngine-oils.html It's not quite temperature. It's the viscosity index when cold. The other number after "w" is the viscosity index at 100 degrees Celsius (usually means warmed up engine temp, not quite but close). There's a lot to learn about engine oils. Do your research and buy based on your budget. thats awesome thanks guys!
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empire23	Aug 8 2014, 07:14 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #30
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 8 2014, 09:25 AM) » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « oh ya now that you mentioned that, on stock form it does run as rich as 11.x ish on the AFR upon high rpm/high load good point on the RCL, probably something i should take note if i am moving on to GDI in the future btw: or https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/hm8NizaeCB7 if you're having difficulty viewing from my website will write more but first gotta goto office =edit= may check out http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php for explanations on the report Anyways regarding the comments about fuel, because they encourage the oil sample to be taken hot (eg: driving the car for 10-20minutes/up to temperature) to avoid fuel dilutions that may affect the test results. If that cannot be done and a cold sample have to be taken (eg: oil change at proton SC that lets you sit from morning 8am to 12pm ) then it should be mentioned to BSL so that they may take note of the potentially higher fuel % found in the oil sample instead of pointing it out as an issue. for my case as it turns out to be a non issue as fuel was less than 0.5% As for the metal parts, sure, it's nothing unusual as per the report comments, however i did spent quite a lot on additives (namely LM Ceratec and nanoextreme ws2) expecting that wear would be on the absolute minimum considering the claims of respective additives. This lab report either proves me wrong or i'm just expecting way too much Granted yes, sub 10k km is still a very early stage of an engine's life and there are still some breaking in of components, however looking at the universal average on metal wear it's just disappointing. AMSOIL clearly proven it's claim, 6.6TBN after 8500 km of very hard driving, constant red lines when some engine oil even STARTS OUT with around 6 TBN (even torco SR1 that's also APN SN/GF5 certified: http://www.torcousa.com/technology/TDS_SR-1%20MotorOil.pdf ) Their 25k Miles claim does ring some truth in it Hell, look at the calcium value, that's generally detergent/dispersant commonly used in EO additives. Most EO (unless you're on diesel/HDEO) don't even start out that high much less a 8500km used EO Viscosity is ROCK SOLID, hell it's even thicker than it's original datasheet: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf considering contaminants and fuel dillution that generally thins out EO viscosity when subjected to heat (likewise thicker on cold, hence morning/cold start sluggish performance on some vehicles on certain engine oils ) i do suspect it could be a case of diluted additives into the oil, but who knows. (the nano ceramic particles are quite viscous, not sure if the viscosity test took that into account) Now for this interesting bit: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manganese#Manganese_in_gasoline i'm wondering if it's due to the use of RCL, Octane boosters (used amsoil dominators and torco's accelerator) or it comes as a natural additive in our Petronas Primax fuel. Hell, it could even be the Techron additive i used previously although http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...t&Number=273248 & http://www.techron.com/what-is-techron/proven-science.aspx doesn't seem to indicate so. i'll stop on those car "drugs" for the time being (never used any after my service/oil drain) and see how it turns out on next lab test Also, here's BSL (Amanda) take on EO additives: Original question from me: I usually don't use any additives and unless there is a specific needs for them or a technical reason behind them. For now the only thing I plan on using is concentrated spray intake cleaner for my BMW and only because it is a GDI engine. I agree with BSL's assessment that the EO is already formulated for to meet its product target. As for the Evo X I've bought some intake cleaner for it as the EGR and PCV system would have slightly dirtied the turbocharger and intake manifolds after 70000km so I thought why the hell not. Also got a can of LiquiMoly Detox, the industrial strength and more potent version of the standard 300ml LiquiMoly Engine Flush. Probably just mineral turps but it's concentrated and comes in a huge 500ml bottle, so I figured "why not?"
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 8 2014, 07:22 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #31
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 8 2014, 07:14 PM) I usually don't use any additives and unless there is a specific needs for them or a technical reason behind them. For now the only thing I plan on using is concentrated spray intake cleaner for my BMW and only because it is a GDI engine. I agree with BSL's assessment that the EO is already formulated for to meet its product target. As for the Evo X I've bought some intake cleaner for it as the EGR and PCV system would have slightly dirtied the turbocharger and intake manifolds after 70000km so I thought why the hell not. Also got a can of LiquiMoly Detox, the industrial strength and more potent version of the standard 300ml LiquiMoly Engine Flush. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « Probably just mineral turps but it's concentrated and comes in a huge 500ml bottle, so I figured "why not?" oo never came across with that... do feedback after you've tried it although, since your bmw is fairly new, i suppose you wont be using it any time soon? btw that table yours? interesting looking shells - hunting or shooting range?
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empire23	Aug 8 2014, 07:33 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #32
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 8 2014, 07:22 PM) oo never came across with that... do feedback after you've tried it although, since your bmw is fairly new, i suppose you wont be using it any time soon? btw that table yours? interesting looking shells - hunting or shooting range? Don't think I'll be using it on the BMW soon. Just the Evo X and maybe the R34 once I undo the damaged those car thieves did to it before the police recovered it. Going to change the tyres as well on the X to Goodyear Eagle F1 Directionals. No need anything really sticky, the car has been relegated to supermarket duties. Yeah the table is mine. Loading my magazines as I have a shooting competition on Sunday.
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 8 2014, 07:36 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #33
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 8 2014, 07:33 PM) Don't think I'll be using it on the BMW soon. Just the Evo X and maybe the R34 once I undo the damaged those car thieves did to it before the police recovered it. Going to change the tyres as well on the X to Goodyear Eagle F1 Directionals. No need anything really sticky, the car has been relegated to supermarket duties. Yeah the table is mine. Loading my magazines as I have a shooting competition on Sunday. eh you've mentioned the recovery of the R34 very long time ago (over a year already or not?) still working on the repairs? and rofl Evo X for supermarket duties on those bullets. good luck on your competition
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empire23	Aug 8 2014, 07:44 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #34
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 8 2014, 07:36 PM) eh you've mentioned the recovery of the R34 very long time ago (over a year already or not?) still working on the repairs? and rofl Evo X for supermarket duties on those bullets. good luck on your competition Yeah. Still working on the repairs because the car is quite low on my priority list and is now sitting in storage. I am worried about the wear and what oils I should use. I might just buy an engine crane and rebuild it by hand. Engine building is surprisingly simple when I leaned it working at my previous job. Fastest supermarket car ever! Danish made Intrax Suspension with SuperPro bushes, DBA 5k rotors, Full Race manifold, Tomei exhaust, Cosworth IC and Intake kit and larger MHI Turbo. Worst of all is my parents plan to stay here for a year. I plan to just give them the X because it is the only "auto" I have
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 8 2014, 07:54 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #35
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 8 2014, 07:44 PM) Yeah. Still working on the repairs because the car is quite low on my priority list and is now sitting in storage. I am worried about the wear and what oils I should use. I might just buy an engine crane and rebuild it by hand. Engine building is surprisingly simple when I leaned it working at my previous job. Fastest supermarket car ever! Danish made Intrax Suspension with SuperPro bushes, DBA 5k rotors, Full Race manifold, Tomei exhaust, Cosworth IC and Intake kit and larger MHI Turbo. Worst of all is my parents plan to stay here for a year. I plan to just give them the X because it is the only "auto" I have do update/new thread on your engine rebuilding if it ever happens and words cannot describe all my jelly
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Klemann C	Aug 10 2014, 02:24 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #36
Casual Junior Member 474 posts Joined: Feb 2008 From: from da land of dori dori	In dilemma whether should try 5w-50 since my car current EO is due...using 0w-40 Is it advisable switch from 0w-40 > 5w-50? Both are Mobil oil.. This post has been edited by Klemann C: Aug 10 2014, 02:27 AM
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 10 2014, 02:34 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #37
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:24 AM) In dilemma whether should try 5w-50 since my car current EO is due...using 0w-40 Is it advisable switch from 0w-40 > 5w-50? Both are Mobil oil.. What's your dilemma?
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Klemann C	Aug 10 2014, 02:46 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #38
Casual Junior Member 474 posts Joined: Feb 2008 From: from da land of dori dori	All the while been using 10w40, 0w40 since I'd got my car. Engine feedback respond is quite positive since my car engine is 4G93..as you know this engine valve lifter prone to noisy & loud due to different EO grade used.
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 10 2014, 05:36 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #39
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:46 AM) All the while been using 10w40, 0w40 since I'd got my car. Engine feedback respond is quite positive since my car engine is 4G93..as you know this engine valve lifter prone to noisy & loud due to different EO grade used. so you got too much performance/good FC and want to lower that by going for thicker EO?
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efaceninja	Aug 10 2014, 08:53 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #40
New Member Junior Member 12 posts Joined: Apr 2005	QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:24 AM) In dilemma whether should try 5w-50 since my car current EO is due...using 0w-40 Is it advisable switch from 0w-40 > 5w-50? Both are Mobil oil.. QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:46 AM) All the while been using 10w40, 0w40 since I'd got my car. Engine feedback respond is quite positive since my car engine is 4G93..as you know this engine valve lifter prone to noisy & loud due to different EO grade used. why you want to change to xw-50 oil? is it because want extra protection? or.. you expect that it will give quieter noise? or.. the foreman keep asking you to take xw-50?
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ZeroSP	Aug 10 2014, 11:18 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #41
Getting Started Junior Member 151 posts Joined: Jan 2008	So a TBN of 7.8 is low? But too many factors to consider as I read through all those technicals.
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Klemann C	Aug 10 2014, 02:38 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #42
Casual Junior Member 474 posts Joined: Feb 2008 From: from da land of dori dori	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 10 2014, 05:36 AM) so you got too much performance/good FC and want to lower that by going for thicker EO? My usual workshop mechanic reckon should try w-50 for better top end & can reduced lifter noise..not sure about fc part might be worsen or better... QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 10 2014, 08:53 AM) why you want to change to xw-50 oil? is it because want extra protection? or.. you expect that it will give quieter noise? or.. the foreman keep asking you to take xw-50? Heard some owner of 4G93, engine will get better top end power band & lifter noise reduced also.. Btw, I saw tesco offered RM139 for Mobil1 5w-50..tempting get 1
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 10 2014, 07:26 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #43
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(ZeroSP @ Aug 10 2014, 11:18 AM) So a TBN of 7.8 is low? But too many factors to consider as I read through all those technicals. well API SN specified within 6.1-8 so 7.8 is just right. also depends on how you drive as well and what OCI you're practicing. QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:38 PM) My usual workshop mechanic reckon should try w-50 for better top end & can reduced lifter noise..not sure about fc part might be worsen or better... try different brand/model of lubes, not thicker viscosity.
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izso	Aug 11 2014, 11:20 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #44
New Member Junior Member 48 posts Joined: Jun 2005	QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:46 AM) All the while been using 10w40, 0w40 since I'd got my car. Engine feedback respond is quite positive since my car engine is 4G93..as you know this engine valve lifter prone to noisy & loud due to different EO grade used. Try Penrite 5W40 HPR or their premium range. Confirm will reduce lifter noise. Don't know how it does it.
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WinterAngeLs	Aug 11 2014, 03:22 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #45
Getting Started Junior Member 138 posts Joined: Apr 2006 From: Cloud 🌨🌥🎈☁🌩✈	Thanks for the interesting info Btw, i came across these 2 today. Seems cheap. whats the normal price btw? Any owners have any feedback using them on a 4B11 and 1NZ-FE? which is the better of the 2?
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phobian	Aug 11 2014, 09:37 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #46
Getting Started Junior Member 172 posts Joined: Nov 2004	QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 7 2014, 01:02 PM) I've got 4 cans of 300V on the way to service my Evo and a bottle of Penrite 10Tenths for flush with Liquimoly flushing fluid. Only because I've neglected to service the car for a bit due to being onsite and my housemates driving it around for a bit. Also doing the 1500km break in service for my BMW. But this time with strong fluid that resists crankcase dilution because the N54 and N55 are very famous engines for utterly destroying even the toughest engine oils due to the ultra high pressure direct injection it uses. This might be a tough one to figure out. 300v 15w50 for your 4B11T? For a good 60k kms, I was happy with TorqNM's VM155 15w50 until my friend decided to close his business. Currently running on Synergie 6100 15w50 and not really happy with it.
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 11 2014, 10:34 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #47
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(WinterAngeLs @ Aug 11 2014, 03:22 PM) Thanks for the interesting info Btw, i came across these 2 today. Seems cheap. whats the normal price btw? Any owners have any feedback using them on a 4B11 and 1NZ-FE? which is the better of the 2? no comments on the 1NZ-FE engine as i'm not worthy. for 4B1x, i'd prefer to go xw20 strictly. however if you're ok on xw40, consider this instead thanks to nzh0920 » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69341868 ori price is rm230-240ish. That's the last natural gas pureplus base stock collaborated with Pennzoil.
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 11 2014, 10:35 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #48
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(phobian @ Aug 11 2014, 09:37 PM) 300v 15w50 for your 4B11T? For a good 60k kms, I was happy with TorqNM's VM155 15w50 until my friend decided to close his business. Currently running on Synergie 6100 15w50 and not really happy with it. he ran with xw20 on regular roads and xw30 for hard tracking usage iinm
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Klemann C	Aug 11 2014, 11:19 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #49
Casual Junior Member 474 posts Joined: Feb 2008 From: from da land of dori dori	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 10 2014, 07:26 PM) try different brand/model of lubes, not thicker viscosity. How about 30 viscosity? Thinner & lighter? QUOTE(izso @ Aug 11 2014, 11:20 AM) Try Penrite 5W40 HPR or their premium range. Confirm will reduce lifter noise. Don't know how it does it. Thanks for suggesting bro 😊 managed bought Mitsubishi Fully Syn 5w-40 from Aeon today RM119 costed slightly more than those forumer selling here.. This post has been edited by Klemann C: Aug 11 2014, 11:21 PM
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 11 2014, 11:21 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #50
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 11 2014, 11:19 PM) How about 30 viscosity? Thinner & lighter? assuming the original specification was xw40, sure why not. although even 4g15 was ORIGINALLY specified to be xw30 from Mitsubishi Service manual i dug up some time ago. Proton called xw50 considering you mentioned Mitsubishi engine... who knows eh lol
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ZeroSP	Aug 12 2014, 05:06 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #51
Getting Started Junior Member 151 posts Joined: Jan 2008	xw-20, I wanna try it long ago for its lighter properties. Just don't know which one therefore have been using 5W-40 all the way. For K20Z2 by the way.
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empire23	Aug 12 2014, 06:46 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #52
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	QUOTE(phobian @ Aug 11 2014, 09:37 PM) 300v 15w50 for your 4B11T? For a good 60k kms, I was happy with TorqNM's VM155 15w50 until my friend decided to close his business. Currently running on Synergie 6100 15w50 and not really happy with it. That's 20 weight higher than what Mitsubishi recommends. Unless you're driving Le Mans 24hrs or some form of endurance racing with elevated temperatures with a requirement to maintain very stable oil pressures, that's too heavy and you'll never get the temps high enough for the oil to pass through the squirters and journals at the right rate. Essentially if you don't drive it hard enough, an oil at that weight will wear your engine faster. Also being a MPFI engine, you won't have problems with dilution, which means your oil weight more or less stays the same. 15W is quite thick upon start up and thus unless there a strong ester or metal "clingy" additive, you will experience more wear upon start up as Mitsubishi recommends a maximum of 5W all year round for summer conditions with 0w for winter.
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 12 2014, 11:18 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #53
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 06:46 AM) That's 20 weight higher than what Mitsubishi recommends. Unless you're driving Le Mans 24hrs or some form of endurance racing with elevated temperatures with a requirement to maintain very stable oil pressures, that's too heavy and you'll never get the temps high enough for the oil to pass through the squirters and journals at the right rate. Essentially if you don't drive it hard enough, an oil at that weight will wear your engine faster. Also being a MPFI engine, you won't have problems with dilution, which means your oil weight more or less stays the same. 15W is quite thick upon start up and thus unless there a strong ester or metal "clingy" additive, you will experience more wear upon start up as Mitsubishi recommends a maximum of 5W all year round for summer conditions with 0w for winter. and there you have it! ps: AFAIK proton recommends 10w40 for the inspira so...
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empire23	Aug 12 2014, 11:54 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #54
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 12 2014, 11:18 AM) and there you have it! ps: AFAIK proton recommends 10w40 for the inspira so... That's within the range of Mistubishi's recommendation but 10W is as thick as you'd go upon startup if you want acceptable engine wear. That's I usually don't go any higher than 5W. 40 weight is quite heavy but still within the 10+- rule of thumb I use. But going 50 is outside that rule and thus the oil would have a seriously hard time squeezing past those journals and tiny oil passages. Anyways ordering 8 litres of Motul DCTF now. Nearly 200 dollars or 600 ringgit. Need to service the Getrag DCT in the car as well. Filter oso mahal.
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 12 2014, 11:59 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #55
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 11:54 AM) That's within the range of Mistubishi's recommendation but 10W is as thick as you'd go upon startup if you want acceptable engine wear. That's I usually don't go any higher than 5W. 40 weight is quite heavy but still within the 10+- rule of thumb I use. But going 50 is outside that rule and thus the oil would have a seriously hard time squeezing past those journals and tiny oil passages. Anyways ordering 8 litres of Motul DCTF now. Nearly 200 dollars or 600 ringgit. Need to service the Getrag DCT in the car as well. Filter oso mahal. 4B11T maybe, 4B10/4B11 recommended is 0w20 and it's +20 heavier. it's a NA econ box afterall hmm 8 liters for rm600 (75/l, somemore things at Australia seems a lot more expensive in comparison) doesn't seem all too bad. i'm paying like rm50/liter for Motul's ATF 1A seem like the way to go if i'm letting go of lubegard platinum additive. That, and my favorite Caltex ATF-J price hike (maybe i spread the word too much on LYN and caltex got wind of it, like Techron concentrated additive)
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empire23	Aug 12 2014, 12:13 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #56
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 12 2014, 11:59 AM) 4B11T maybe, 4B10/4B11 recommended is 0w20 and it's +20 heavier. it's a NA econ box afterall hmm 8 liters for rm600 (75/l, somemore things at Australia seems a lot more expensive in comparison) doesn't seem all too bad. i'm paying like rm50/liter for Motul's ATF 1A seem like the way to go if i'm letting go of lubegard platinum additive. That, and my favorite Caltex ATF-J price hike (maybe i spread the word too much on LYN and caltex got wind of it, like Techron concentrated additive) I think that's the new recommendation but it isn't due to a technical concern, it is because Mitsubishi had to satisfy the CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) for most of its cars sold and a lighter oil helps it do that. Proton doesn't need to satisfy CAFE laws in the US. The Evos don't have a renewed recommendation because CAFE is sales weighted. Meaning the cars that sell the most are the most affected. Thus I'd try both 0W-30 and 0W-20 and get UOA analysis done on them to determine which is best for what. As you have no turbo to contend with, but your clearances might be more/less due to many factors as the 4B11T uses Mahle's forged hypereutectic pistons in a 2618 alloy. But being within the range you can't go wrong. I usually buy all my DCT lube from the US or Europe. Too mahal here. Motul DCTF is nearly double that price I buy local. If I buy Mitsubishi DiaQueen SSTF-1 (rebranded Castrol Transmax Dual), it is 500 dollars for 8 litres from Mitsubishi.
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 12 2014, 12:19 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #57
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 12:13 PM) I think that's the new recommendation but it isn't due to a technical concern, it is because Mitsubishi had to satisfy the CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) for most of its cars sold and a lighter oil helps it do that. Proton doesn't need to satisfy CAFE laws in the US. The Evos don't have a renewed recommendation because CAFE is sales weighted. Meaning the cars that sell the most are the most affected. Thus I'd try both 0W-30 and 0W-20 and get UOA analysis done on them to determine which is best for what. As you have no turbo to contend with, but your clearances might be more/less due to many factors as the 4B11T uses Mahle's forged hypereutectic pistons in a 2618 alloy. But being within the range you can't go wrong. I usually buy all my DCT lube from the US or Europe. Too mahal here. Motul DCTF is nearly double that price I buy local. If I buy Mitsubishi DiaQueen SSTF-1 (rebranded Castrol Transmax Dual), it is 500 dollars for 8 litres from Mitsubishi. aye that's pretty much my reasoning on sticking with the lightest viscosity within Mitsubishi's range. My UOA did show a bit high wear despite the additives, but hey who knows if they are the ones causing trouble instead? lol then again the lab guys weren't concern about the wear i'm experience due to the engine being very new and i do trash it very hard. btw once i can confirm on some figures i'll post my latest dyno... it's as you said, the ecu seriously did richen itself insanely despite the richest value on the remapped is 12.8 AFR OBD already shows commanded AFR being 11.5-12 so it definitely due air filter stuck or air starvation... i actually double checked the drop in box to confirm there's no dead rat sitting in there ah that pricing is not from AUD? then yea it is rather pricey, though being in the limited DCT market, i guess it cant be helped
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phobian	Aug 12 2014, 03:51 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #58
Getting Started Junior Member 172 posts Joined: Nov 2004	QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 12:13 PM) I usually buy all my DCT lube from the US or Europe. Too mahal here. Motul DCTF is nearly double that price I buy local. If I buy Mitsubishi DiaQueen SSTF-1 (rebranded Castrol Transmax Dual), it is 500 dollars for 8 litres from Mitsubishi. Cheam@C&R Autocare Glenmarie carries Motul DCTF. Cant recall the exact price, but was told its lesser than RM100 if I recall correctly. If my 20L pack of HKS cannot reach in time, its either Motul DCTF or Millers. Well noted and thanks for the heads up on Mitsubishi's recommended grade of engine oil.
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 12 2014, 04:09 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #59
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(phobian @ Aug 12 2014, 03:51 PM) Cheam@C&R Autocare Glenmarie carries Motul DCTF. Cant recall the exact price, but was told its lesser than RM100 if I recall correctly. If my 20L pack of HKS cannot reach in time, its either Motul DCTF or Millers. Well noted and thanks for the heads up on Mitsubishi's recommended grade of engine oil. btw glad you happen to stumble across this thread also, hopefully i get to see you in action personally during Sepang bro empire23 is in Australia i believe and his Evo X is now a supermarket car do give it a go with lower viscosities; You've been missing out a LOT on your 4B11T man heck i'm a lowly 4B10 and i've been really happy on it's rev happy nature with 0w20 EO's since day 1
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empire23	Aug 12 2014, 06:33 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #60
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 12 2014, 12:19 PM) aye that's pretty much my reasoning on sticking with the lightest viscosity within Mitsubishi's range. My UOA did show a bit high wear despite the additives, but hey who knows if they are the ones causing trouble instead? lol then again the lab guys weren't concern about the wear i'm experience due to the engine being very new and i do trash it very hard. btw once i can confirm on some figures i'll post my latest dyno... it's as you said, the ecu seriously did richen itself insanely despite the richest value on the remapped is 12.8 AFR OBD already shows commanded AFR being 11.5-12 so it definitely due air filter stuck or air starvation... i actually double checked the drop in box to confirm there's no dead rat sitting in there ah that pricing is not from AUD? then yea it is rather pricey, though being in the limited DCT market, i guess it cant be helped You'll have high wear for your first UOA and it progressively gets lower as everything fits in. As for your tuning I'd suggest sitting down with a WBO2 sensor and tuning up everything after a few pulls. If you're going rich, I'd check the knock value and see if it is the ECU compensating for knock. Also check your ignition time. I believe that investing in a Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 cable for logging while you do your WOT pulls might be a wise investment. QUOTE(phobian @ Aug 12 2014, 03:51 PM) Cheam@C&R Autocare Glenmarie carries Motul DCTF. Cant recall the exact price, but was told its lesser than RM100 if I recall correctly. If my 20L pack of HKS cannot reach in time, its either Motul DCTF or Millers. Well noted and thanks for the heads up on Mitsubishi's recommended grade of engine oil. Motul DCTF is about 25 dollars a bottle over the internet, I'll buy it and it'll probably be here once I get back from site. Hopefully. The filter isn't too hard to find as there's an equivalent Ford part number for it. I just cleaned the Evo today and wiped all the leather down with cleaner and conditioner, Kyrtoxed all the rubber seals and essentially left it in top condition. If I come back in 3 weeks and the car is dirty, somebody's gonna get hurt real bad.
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 12 2014, 06:46 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #61
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 06:33 PM) You'll have high wear for your first UOA and it progressively gets lower as everything fits in. As for your tuning I'd suggest sitting down with a WBO2 sensor and tuning up everything after a few pulls. If you're going rich, I'd check the knock value and see if it is the ECU compensating for knock. Also check your ignition time. I believe that investing in a Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 cable for logging while you do your WOT pulls might be a wise investment. I just cleaned the Evo today and wiped all the leather down with cleaner and conditioner, Kyrtoxed all the rubber seals and essentially left it in top condition. If I come back in 3 weeks and the car is dirty, somebody's gonna get hurt real bad. definitely will need to save up for the tuning equipments... everything don't come cheap and at the end of the day one would wonder if it's even worth it for a puny 100hp 4B10 lol... I'm actually thinking of something like a scooby for my next car, but that's something to be explored maybe 7 years later or if i strike lottery or something since i just started out with my new car btw, the ECU also compensate knocking not only via ignition but AFR as well? damn that could explain the commanded AFR values despite the mapping specified 12.8 to be the lowest value. i do know that the ignition advance did not went as high as i had on that previous screenshot i @ ping'd you that other day much thanks for the info bro, that definitely help solved a few mysteries. maybe next dyno i'll go drug up the car to prevent knock though, i either wasn't sensitive on the knocking, or the knock sensors/compensation was done so perfectly it totally slipped past me btw prepping the supermarket car for the parents? lol
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empire23	Aug 12 2014, 07:40 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #62
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 12 2014, 06:46 PM) definitely will need to save up for the tuning equipments... everything don't come cheap and at the end of the day one would wonder if it's even worth it for a puny 100hp 4B10 lol... I'm actually thinking of something like a scooby for my next car, but that's something to be explored maybe 7 years later or if i strike lottery or something since i just started out with my new car btw, the ECU also compensate knocking not only via ignition but AFR as well? damn that could explain the commanded AFR values despite the mapping specified 12.8 to be the lowest value. i do know that the ignition advance did not went as high as i had on that previous screenshot i @ ping'd you that other day much thanks for the info bro, that definitely help solved a few mysteries. maybe next dyno i'll go drug up the car to prevent knock though, i either wasn't sensitive on the knocking, or the knock sensors/compensation was done so perfectly it totally slipped past me btw prepping the supermarket car for the parents? lol Well the Tactrix OpenPort can be used with a lot of vehicles. Subaru included and so can the WBO2 sensor. As for the ECU compensating, well, it's an unknown quantity at this moment as you're only editing stuff via the CANbus, the logic is still up to the ECU itself and that's the hard bit. Just like how the Evo X switches between 3 maps, nobody knows how the interpolation on map selection is done by the ECU, we just try our best to mod around it. Best you can do is log things and see how it affects other variables. And of course take what I say with a grain of salt, I'm no expert on Mitsubishi ECUs or any car based ECUs for that matter. Although if you need help with GM DELPHI, E-Controls and other industrial ECUs, I can help My parents say they want to come in December. I oso say ok lah, but I wanted to clean the car up before I serviced everything. One of those syiok sendiri things. Diff, transfer case, engine, power steering, brake and gearbox oils all changes with a fresh set of plugs and with a very shiny car. Feels good mang. This post has been edited by empire23: Aug 12 2014, 07:42 PM
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 12 2014, 07:51 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #63
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 07:40 PM) Well the Tactrix OpenPort can be used with a lot of vehicles. Subaru included and so can the WBO2 sensor. As for the ECU compensating, well, it's an unknown quantity at this moment as you're only editing stuff via the CANbus, the logic is still up to the ECU itself and that's the hard bit. Just like how the Evo X switches between 3 maps, nobody knows how the interpolation on map selection is done by the ECU, we just try our best to mod around it. Best you can do is log things and see how it affects other variables. And of course take what I say with a grain of salt, I'm no expert on Mitsubishi ECUs or any car based ECUs for that matter. Although if you need help with GM DELPHI, E-Controls and other industrial ECUs, I can help My parents say they want to come in December. I oso say ok lah, but I wanted to clean the car up before I serviced everything. One of those syiok sendiri things. Diff, transfer case, engine, power steering, brake and gearbox oils all changes with a fresh set of plugs and with a very shiny car. Feels good mang. if anything i know there 2 separate MIVEC timings just for hot/cold coolant temperatures, god knows how many other variables are there (eg: the 3 maps you mentioned) your information has definitely helped me understand a lot of things in the past/now so definitely appreciate them and yes, that's what most car guys do, no? coughdetailingthreadcough
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efaceninja	Aug 26 2014, 07:59 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #64
New Member Junior Member 12 posts Joined: Apr 2005	anyone used any radiator coolant flush product before?
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 27 2014, 03:50 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #65
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 26 2014, 07:59 PM) anyone used any radiator coolant flush product before? used this from Eneos: but as i google i found : http://www.prop65daily.com/Litigation/Peop...ncorporated.pdf probably why they seem to be so hard to google these days, company closed? lol anyways if your car is still new, just replace the coolant more frequently if you don't want risk that may come from coolant flushes.
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efaceninja	Aug 27 2014, 08:58 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #66
New Member Junior Member 12 posts Joined: Apr 2005	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 27 2014, 03:50 AM) used this from Eneos: but as i google i found : http://www.prop65daily.com/Litigation/Peop...ncorporated.pdf probably why they seem to be so hard to google these days, company closed? lol anyways if your car is still new, just replace the coolant more frequently if you don't want risk that may come from coolant flushes. the car i intended to use on is old car, the coolant so far i believe has been using RM 6 coolant off the shelve of supermarket. not sure how frequent it changed. and i think there was a period it was filled with plain pipe water only.. well, back then i was not knowledgeable as now.. now i plan to replace it with those long life one from shell. so before that, was thinking of giving it a flush first. hmmm, what risk here you referring to? you mean it may harden the seals or dislodge a clogged hole (make the hole reappear and leak)?? also, i've discovered that radiator flush coolant product are a lot more rare than engine oil flush.
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TSQuazacolt	Aug 27 2014, 09:21 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #67
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 27 2014, 08:58 AM) the car i intended to use on is old car, the coolant so far i believe has been using RM 6 coolant off the shelve of supermarket. not sure how frequent it changed. and i think there was a period it was filled with plain pipe water only.. well, back then i was not knowledgeable as now.. now i plan to replace it with those long life one from shell. so before that, was thinking of giving it a flush first. hmmm, what risk here you referring to? you mean it may harden the seals or dislodge a clogged hole (make the hole reappear and leak)?? also, i've discovered that radiator flush coolant product are a lot more rare than engine oil flush. ya pretty much what you've mentioned on the risk. it's a given actually, radiators are a whole lot cheaper to replace. maybe 300-600 for the average radiators? an engine is in the thousand, so products tend to focus more on the engine where else radiators? spoil/leak/corrode/clogged etc just get new? lol. of course you could just replace coolant more frequently, use distilled water only and so on and they'd probably last many long years until you need to deal with clogging/corrosion] and even then replacing one still probably wouldn't be a killer.
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efaceninja	Aug 30 2014, 09:54 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #68
New Member Junior Member 12 posts Joined: Apr 2005	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 27 2014, 03:50 AM) used this from Eneos: » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « but as i google i found : http://www.prop65daily.com/Litigation/Peop...ncorporated.pdf probably why they seem to be so hard to google these days, company closed? lol anyways if your car is still new, just replace the coolant more frequently if you don't want risk that may come from coolant flushes. lols saw your blue cloral radiator flush at one of the Acehardware store. and many others brand. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
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zionanubis	Sep 2 2014, 01:54 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #69
New Member Junior Member 27 posts Joined: Jan 2007	using this oil for my weekend car. mobil 1 5W-30 EP my car, Civic FD1 (R18A) engine. feel little different with honda OEM oil ( honda service package 5w-30 eco friendly oil ) is it really can push up till 1 year, only oil exchange ? i'm weekday driving, 1 month maximum run about 450~500KM 500KM X 12mth= 6000 ++ km for a year.
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 2 2014, 03:06 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #70
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(zionanubis @ Sep 2 2014, 01:54 PM) » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « using this oil for my weekend car. mobil 1 5W-30 EP my car, Civic FD1 (R18A) engine. feel little different with honda OEM oil ( honda service package 5w-30 eco friendly oil ) is it really can push up till 1 year, only oil exchange ? i'm weekday driving, 1 month maximum run about 450~500KM 500KM X 12mth= 6000 ++ km for a year. if worry, change the oil filter on the 6 month and top up accordingly. check the engine oil condition/level via dipstick every month
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711726	Sep 2 2014, 10:33 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #71
Casual Junior Member 444 posts Joined: Dec 2008	QUOTE(zionanubis @ Sep 2 2014, 01:54 PM) using this oil for my weekend car. mobil 1 5W-30 EP my car, Civic FD1 (R18A) engine. feel little different with honda OEM oil ( honda service package 5w-30 eco friendly oil ) is it really can push up till 1 year, only oil exchange ? i'm weekday driving, 1 month maximum run about 450~500KM 500KM X 12mth= 6000 ++ km for a year. Can feel immediate punchy feel right? Bought it on offer on Ramadhan ~RM140, used it on my mum's saga LMST, can tarik kaw2
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empire23	Sep 3 2014, 04:40 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #72
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	Reorganized my oils and everything into a proper shelf in the corner of my room.
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 3 2014, 04:43 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #73
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Sep 3 2014, 04:40 PM) Reorganized my oils and everything into a proper shelf in the corner of my room. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « those metal can 300v packaging look damn nice lol our plastic bottles looks kinda plain =edit= high5 on megs/turtle wax This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Sep 3 2014, 04:43 PM
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empire23	Sep 3 2014, 04:51 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #74
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 3 2014, 04:43 PM) those metal can 300v packaging look damn nice lol our plastic bottles looks kinda plain =edit= high5 on megs/turtle wax I think the plastic bottles are the older Double Ester technology, I used to get those. The new stuff that comes in a can is called EsterCore. Most fluids I hantam and use as required, then restock, the only thing I skimp on is the Castrol SRF Racing. 340 ringgit for 1L bottle. When feeling cheap I use Penrite SIN, Motul RBF660 or ATE Super Blue. I don't detail the car much these days. I'm not home very often.
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 3 2014, 05:14 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #75
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Sep 3 2014, 04:51 PM) I think the plastic bottles are the older Double Ester technology, I used to get those. The new stuff that comes in a can is called EsterCore. Most fluids I hantam and use as required, then restock, the only thing I skimp on is the Castrol SRF Racing. 340 ringgit for 1L bottle. When feeling cheap I use Penrite SIN, Motul RBF660 or ATE Super Blue. I don't detail the car much these days. I'm not home very often. neh ester core: https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/3pv5ZxGdhUX from motul's site they still run both metal/plastic packaging my ester core 300v are year 2013 production batch (assuming the date looking formatted numbers are the production dates) and since 300v stocks for Malaysia runs damn slow (i'd assume), year 2013 batches are still circulating around lol Hmm i've been recommended on ATE brake fluids, how are they btw? not too interested in the super blue racing fluids, just their ultra low viscosity SL.6 intrigues me: http://www.ate-na.com/www/ate_us_en/themes.../bf_sl6_us.html it being DOT4 and still able to have better temperatures/viscosity rating and yet still being cheaper than motul DOT 5.1 i've just recently purchased to bleed my brakes for this upcoming Sepang... haven't come across them locally though, so still looking around the internet/options. well my detailing products are just sitting there for the most part... i mean the last time i washed my new car (or any car for that matter lol) was months ago
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efaceninja	Sep 4 2014, 09:05 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #76
New Member Junior Member 12 posts Joined: Apr 2005	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 3 2014, 05:14 PM) well my detailing products are just sitting there for the most part... i mean the last time i washed my new car (or any car for that matter lol) was months ago in kitchen too?
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 4 2014, 11:14 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #77
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(efaceninja @ Sep 4 2014, 09:05 AM) in kitchen too? And living room lol
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empire23	Sep 5 2014, 08:53 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #78
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 3 2014, 05:14 PM) Hmm i've been recommended on ATE brake fluids, how are they btw? not too interested in the super blue racing fluids, just their ultra low viscosity SL.6 intrigues me: http://www.ate-na.com/www/ate_us_en/themes.../bf_sl6_us.html it being DOT4 and still able to have better temperatures/viscosity rating and yet still being cheaper than motul DOT 5.1 i've just recently purchased to bleed my brakes for this upcoming Sepang... haven't come across them locally though, so still looking around the internet/options. well my detailing products are just sitting there for the most part... i mean the last time i washed my new car (or any car for that matter lol) was months ago ATE's SuperBlue and Type 200 are pretty good. The SL6 is ATE's offering for high performance driving but I've never used it before as Superblue isn't that much more expensive. Have used Superblue on the Evo X previously but preferred the pedal feel from Castrol's React SRF. Otherwise they're pretty damned close. Yeah I hardly detail these days, just an autowash and a vacuuming when I get back and before I leave for site. Just serviced the Evo today, she feels good to drive and the engine runs as it should with the 300V 5W-30, flushed it with LiquiMoly Engine Flush as well but might use a light weight flushing oil the next time around. This post has been edited by empire23: Sep 5 2014, 08:54 PM
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 6 2014, 04:24 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #79
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Sep 5 2014, 08:53 PM) ATE's SuperBlue and Type 200 are pretty good. The SL6 is ATE's offering for high performance driving but I've never used it before as Superblue isn't that much more expensive. Have used Superblue on the Evo X previously but preferred the pedal feel from Castrol's React SRF. Otherwise they're pretty damned close. Yeah I hardly detail these days, just an autowash and a vacuuming when I get back and before I leave for site. Just serviced the Evo today, she feels good to drive and the engine runs as it should with the 300V 5W-30, flushed it with LiquiMoly Engine Flush as well but might use a light weight flushing oil the next time around. hmm in regards to pedal feel, would it's viscosity property be it's major contribution? assuming so, would you prefer thinner or thicker viscosity? i have a personal preference for lighter viscosity in almost everything, and in regards to brakes, the braking feels so much sharper. Not to mention more precise clutch controlling as the brake/clutch shares from the same reservoir/fluids. will definiftely check out castrol, they should be easier to get around here i'd reckon? i had a choice for motul's RBF and DOT5.1, the pricing was as you said (for the ATE anyways) damn similar, only opted the DOT5.1 in the end because of the much lighter viscosity especially on cold starts slow/half clutching. btw any reasoning on avoiding engine flush and opting for light weight flushing oil? which sort of flushing oil would you be referring to? most hdeo seems very thick in viscosity from the top of my head.
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zionanubis	Sep 7 2014, 01:33 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #80
New Member Junior Member 27 posts Joined: Jan 2007	[quote=711726,Sep 2 2014, 10:33 PM] Can feel immediate punchy feel right? Bought it on offer on Ramadhan ~RM140, used it on my mum's saga LMST, can tarik kaw2 [/quote wow RM140, where u get it ? dont mind pm the that seller? so your saga LMST, 4G13 or 4G15? noting happend with 5w-30? sure powerful + smooth ~
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empire23	Sep 7 2014, 04:59 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #81
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 6 2014, 04:24 AM) hmm in regards to pedal feel, would it's viscosity property be it's major contribution? assuming so, would you prefer thinner or thicker viscosity? i have a personal preference for lighter viscosity in almost everything, and in regards to brakes, the braking feels so much sharper. Not to mention more precise clutch controlling as the brake/clutch shares from the same reservoir/fluids. will definiftely check out castrol, they should be easier to get around here i'd reckon? i had a choice for motul's RBF and DOT5.1, the pricing was as you said (for the ATE anyways) damn similar, only opted the DOT5.1 in the end because of the much lighter viscosity especially on cold starts slow/half clutching. btw any reasoning on avoiding engine flush and opting for light weight flushing oil? which sort of flushing oil would you be referring to? most hdeo seems very thick in viscosity from the top of my head. Personally I feel that the majority contribution to pedal feel is compressibility, viscosity is less important. What I look for ultimately are the wet and dry boiling points, wet being the most important as it determines the stability of the fluid in the long term and its ability to function when subjected to real world conditions. I'm not worried about cold starting temps because it primarily acts as a hydraulic fluid. ATE's fluids tend to last 1 or 2 track days due to their formula being less able to reject the effects of moisture but it is well known that Castrol's SRF Racing will only need 1 or 2 changes per season. Also the wet boiling point is about 100 degrees higher. My logic behind my preference for a flushing oil (my definition is : Oil used as an intermediary to flush rather than a purpose made flushing oil) is simply because if I'm going to put new expensive engine oil in, it is probably better for it to go into a cleaned engine, free from any old leftovers. So I'll probably use some cheap oil and filter, give it a hard drive and then service it quickly with the much more expensive 300V and high perf filter.
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711726	Sep 7 2014, 11:56 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #82
Casual Junior Member 444 posts Joined: Dec 2008	[quote=zionanubis,Sep 7 2014, 01:33 PM] [quote=711726,Sep 2 2014, 10:33 PM] Can feel immediate punchy feel right? Bought it on offer on Ramadhan ~RM140, used it on my mum's saga LMST, can tarik kaw2 [/quote wow RM140, where u get it ? dont mind pm the that seller? so your saga LMST, 4G13 or 4G15? noting happend with 5w-30? sure powerful + smooth ~ [/quote] Bought it at Tesco Seremban on sale haha. My mum's LMST has the 4G13 engine. Planning to pour the same oil into my wife's Myvi. Tried eneos semi syn 5w30 and petrocanada semi syn 5w30 as well, but the eneos was better. Can't wait to see what will the mobil 1 does to the myvi's engine This post has been edited by 711726: Sep 7 2014, 11:57 PM
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 8 2014, 01:03 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #83
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Sep 7 2014, 04:59 PM) Personally I feel that the majority contribution to pedal feel is compressibility, viscosity is less important. What I look for ultimately are the wet and dry boiling points, wet being the most important as it determines the stability of the fluid in the long term and its ability to function when subjected to real world conditions. I'm not worried about cold starting temps because it primarily acts as a hydraulic fluid. ATE's fluids tend to last 1 or 2 track days due to their formula being less able to reject the effects of moisture but it is well known that Castrol's SRF Racing will only need 1 or 2 changes per season. Also the wet boiling point is about 100 degrees higher. My logic behind my preference for a flushing oil (my definition is : Oil used as an intermediary to flush rather than a purpose made flushing oil) is simply because if I'm going to put new expensive engine oil in, it is probably better for it to go into a cleaned engine, free from any old leftovers. So I'll probably use some cheap oil and filter, give it a hard drive and then service it quickly with the much more expensive 300V and high perf filter. i see, so overall it would be a deal of trial and error i guess? (what fluid provides what sort of compress-ability/pedal feel) my experience from switching over to the 5.1 (not even a full drain, merely bled the brakes and top up with the 5.1) is that the clutch feel during cold starts are very precise and doesn't "lag". as i lift of the clutch gradually the engagement is very precise compared to previous, either the car barely moves and if i lift off more i'd over do it and the horrible "manual transmission jerks " will surface as the rpm dipped too low. SRF = http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPD...RF%20Racing.pdf ? the viscosity on both cold/100c is almost double against bosch/motul's 5.1 fluids QUOTE Compressibility: The compressibility of Castrol React SRF Racing is very similar to that of current DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. It can therefore be filled into any braking system used in motor sport with the exception of those for which a mineral oil is prescribed. It gives a “hard pedal” feel i guess this make sense then? it's a bit hard on the layman/consumers if there's no actual compress-ability tests/data spec to compare with I see i guess that does make sense on the flushing part. At least you won't have any left over engine flush that may deter the performance of your new engine oil. thanks for the insights as usual bro
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empire23	Sep 8 2014, 07:10 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #84
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 8 2014, 01:03 AM) i see, so overall it would be a deal of trial and error i guess? (what fluid provides what sort of compress-ability/pedal feel) my experience from switching over to the 5.1 (not even a full drain, merely bled the brakes and top up with the 5.1) is that the clutch feel during cold starts are very precise and doesn't "lag". as i lift of the clutch gradually the engagement is very precise compared to previous, either the car barely moves and if i lift off more i'd over do it and the horrible "manual transmission jerks " will surface as the rpm dipped too low. SRF = http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPD...RF%20Racing.pdf ? the viscosity on both cold/100c is almost double against bosch/motul's 5.1 fluids i guess this make sense then? it's a bit hard on the layman/consumers if there's no actual compress-ability tests/data spec to compare with I see i guess that does make sense on the flushing part. At least you won't have any left over engine flush that may deter the performance of your new engine oil. thanks for the insights as usual bro I usually attribute the lack of bite in clutch during cold starts to the friction material of the clutch itself rather than the fluid for clutch actuation. My remedy is to simply feather it for 5 seconds until the material heats up. But I guess it might be different in a Mitsubishi CJ based car as both brake and clutch share the same reservoir. My old R34 had independent reservoirs. The SRF is more viscous but it is an ester based fluid rather than a polyglycol one. Thus the pedal feel is spongier due to compressibility being higher. Castrol have obviously tweaked the formula to limit this issue greatly, but it will be slightly different to your standard high performance based poly fluid. But otherwise its performance under stress is extremely good.
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 8 2014, 09:06 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #85
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Sep 8 2014, 07:10 AM) I usually attribute the lack of bite in clutch during cold starts to the friction material of the clutch itself rather than the fluid for clutch actuation. My remedy is to simply feather it for 5 seconds until the material heats up. But I guess it might be different in a Mitsubishi CJ based car as both brake and clutch share the same reservoir. My old R34 had independent reservoirs. The SRF is more viscous but it is an ester based fluid rather than a polyglycol one. Thus the pedal feel is spongier due to compressibility being higher. Castrol have obviously tweaked the formula to limit this issue greatly, but it will be slightly different to your standard high performance based poly fluid. But otherwise its performance under stress is extremely good. ah good info as always really tempted on the SRF after all the info you've provided... btw regardless of what castrol mention, would there be any issue mixing silicon ester (ya that silicon keyword is a worry) with regular glycol based fluids?
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iskazulka	Sep 10 2014, 03:36 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #86
Getting Started Junior Member 61 posts Joined: May 2012	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 12 2014, 12:18 PM) and there you have it! ps: AFAIK proton recommends 10w40 for the inspira so... on my FL, proton ady updated recommend use 10w30.
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 10 2014, 03:37 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #87
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(iskazulka @ Sep 10 2014, 03:36 PM) on my FL, proton ady updated recommend use 10w30. they changed the booklet or something? or got official letter/announcement? =edit= i actually stand corrected as iinm matrix pointed out to me the booklet for inspira is actually just a copy from mitsubishi's manual and it is also recommending 0w20 This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Sep 10 2014, 03:38 PM
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iskazulka	Sep 10 2014, 03:56 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #88
Getting Started Junior Member 61 posts Joined: May 2012	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 10 2014, 04:37 PM) they changed the booklet or something? or got official letter/announcement? =edit= i actually stand corrected as iinm matrix pointed out to me the booklet for inspira is actually just a copy from mitsubishi's manual and it is also recommending 0w20 got supplementary @additional printout. stating use 10w30. later i dig-out the print out.
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 10 2014, 04:00 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #89
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(iskazulka @ Sep 10 2014, 03:56 PM) got supplementary @additional printout. stating use 10w30. later i dig-out the print out. great information bro will help to put on page 1 since we do have a lot of proton/campro users on LYN
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Mahihi	Sep 14 2014, 03:37 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #90
New Member Junior Member 37 posts Joined: Mar 2006	New engine oil in town,welcome to get it from me and try it to believe it,
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 14 2014, 08:42 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #91
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(Mahihi @ Sep 14 2014, 03:37 PM) New engine oil in town,welcome to get it from me and try it to believe it, any info on certifications that can be publicly queried such as the API?
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evolution120	Sep 14 2014, 08:44 PM Show posts by this member only \| IPv6 \| Post #92
In nickel we trust. Senior Member 4,300 posts Joined: Oct 2006	QUOTE(zionanubis @ Sep 2 2014, 01:54 PM) using this oil for my weekend car. mobil 1 5W-30 EP my car, Civic FD1 (R18A) engine. feel little different with honda OEM oil ( honda service package 5w-30 eco friendly oil ) is it really can push up till 1 year, only oil exchange ? i'm weekday driving, 1 month maximum run about 450~500KM 500KM X 12mth= 6000 ++ km for a year. mind elaborate what kind of little different u felt?
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Mahihi	Sep 14 2014, 09:45 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #93
New Member Junior Member 37 posts Joined: Mar 2006	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 14 2014, 08:42 PM) any info on certifications that can be publicly queried such as the API? i tot u will do all the research, https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...dName%3Dmaxxoil supplier told me that starting from 2015,nascar and global time attack will have their billboard on it,we shall see...
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 14 2014, 10:08 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #94
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(Mahihi @ Sep 14 2014, 09:45 PM) i tot u will do all the research, https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...dName%3Dmaxxoil supplier told me that starting from 2015,nascar and global time attack will have their billboard on it,we shall see... from the link, the brand name and products don't match at all. noticed how they did not put the proper API donut/star burst logo and i believe it's because they are not certified. Considering they are supposedly a US company, they would get into serious trouble putting the API donut/star burst logo if they aren't actually certified
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Mavik	Sep 14 2014, 10:15 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #95
Patience is a virtue Elite 7,232 posts Joined: Jan 2003	Just started using Motul 8100 x-cess engine oil for my diesel engine. Very hard to find real quality engine oil for diesel engines especially those suited for performance. https://www.motul.com/gb/en/products/oils-l...100-x-cess-5w40 So far it makes the diesel engine feel quite smooth as compared to the standard ones which the dealership provides which are normally Castrol 5w-30.
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Mahihi	Sep 14 2014, 10:18 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #96
New Member Junior Member 37 posts Joined: Mar 2006	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 14 2014, 10:08 PM) from the link, the brand name and products don't match at all. noticed how they did not put the proper API donut/star burst logo and i believe it's because they are not certified. Considering they are supposedly a US company, they would get into serious trouble putting the API donut/star burst logo if they aren't actually certified as i've been told,they are in the process of putting all of the products into the api directory,and they will separate the company,of course,not sure whether they are bull shiting anot,i can only wait for next year.....so far the semi i gotten from them have the vw and mb approval,mean while other brand semi oil rarely has the approval number,so if is true,i am on the right bet... but then,how about this picture?? This post has been edited by Mahihi: Sep 14 2014, 10:36 PM
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 14 2014, 10:23 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #97
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(Mahihi @ Sep 14 2014, 10:18 PM) as i been told,they are in the process of putting all of the products into the api directory,and they will separate the company,of course,not sure whether they are bull shiting anot,i can only wait for next year.....so far the semi i gotten from them have the vw and mb approval,mean while other semi oil rarely has the approval number,so if is true,i am on the right bet... but then,how about this picture?? is that for the products listed from that "olein" company? if not then it could be a serious breach of trust. perhaps i can inquire further with maxxoil, see what they say (as what i've done to Torco/Liqui moly )
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Mavik	Sep 14 2014, 10:29 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #98
Patience is a virtue Elite 7,232 posts Joined: Jan 2003	QUOTE(Mahihi @ Sep 14 2014, 10:18 PM) as i been told,they are in the process of putting all of the products into the api directory,and they will separate the company,of course,not sure whether they are bull shiting anot,i can only wait for next year.....so far the semi i gotten from them have the vw and mb approval,mean while other semi oil rarely has the approval number,so if is true,i am on the right bet... but then,how about this picture?? Can't use this on my car No LL-01 or LL-04 rating....
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Mahihi	Sep 14 2014, 10:30 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #99
New Member Junior Member 37 posts Joined: Mar 2006	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 14 2014, 10:23 PM) is that for the products listed from that "olein" company? if not then it could be a serious breach of trust. perhaps i can inquire further with maxxoil, see what they say (as what i've done to Torco/Liqui moly ) ya lo,olein aka OLIN,lol.... eh,help me ask2,i scared kena tipu leh,
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Mahihi	Sep 14 2014, 10:31 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #100
New Member Junior Member 37 posts Joined: Mar 2006	QUOTE(Mavik @ Sep 14 2014, 10:29 PM) Can't use this on my car No LL-01 or LL-04 rating.... i can oni afford semi for now,their fully selling price for the customer is at least RM 220,
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 14 2014, 10:36 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #101
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(Mavik @ Sep 14 2014, 10:15 PM) Just started using Motul 8100 x-cess engine oil for my diesel engine. Very hard to find real quality engine oil for diesel engines especially those suited for performance. https://www.motul.com/gb/en/products/oils-l...100-x-cess-5w40 So far it makes the diesel engine feel quite smooth as compared to the standard ones which the dealership provides which are normally Castrol 5w-30. hmm it's diesel certification seems a bit obsolete: https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1389027113 http://www.api.org/certification-programs/...NGLISH_2013.pdf however with the rather high TBN, and BMW specification/approvals, i guess you'll still be fine. but yeah as you said, diesel engine oil that's specific to performance is rather rare and most of them are not properly certified (at least on the diesel portion) if possible, do consider publishing UOA's i can consider organizing bulk to save everyone (and my own) shipping cost
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 14 2014, 10:36 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #102
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(Mahihi @ Sep 14 2014, 10:30 PM) ya lo,olein aka OLIN,lol.... eh,help me ask2,i scared kena tipu leh, will do, will post/tag updates for you/everyone
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Mavik	Sep 14 2014, 10:39 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #103
Patience is a virtue Elite 7,232 posts Joined: Jan 2003	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 14 2014, 10:36 PM) hmm it's diesel certification seems a bit obsolete: https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1389027113 http://www.api.org/certification-programs/...NGLISH_2013.pdf however with the rather high TBN, and BMW specification/approvals, i guess you'll still be fine. but yeah as you said, diesel engine oil that's specific to performance is rather rare and most of them are not properly certified (at least on the diesel portion) if possible, do consider publishing UOA's i can consider organizing bulk to save everyone (and my own) shipping cost What's UOA? I am actually more interested in the 300v Racing 5w40 from Motul for track days. Dropped Motul a message to see if there are any issues with this oil with my car's current engine.
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 14 2014, 10:49 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #104
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(Mavik @ Sep 14 2014, 10:39 PM) What's UOA? I am actually more interested in the 300v Racing 5w40 from Motul for track days. Dropped Motul a message to see if there are any issues with this oil with my car's current engine. used oil analysis, may refer to this bro: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69700867 i'm currently running on motul 300v 0w20 at the moment, will be sending mine for another analysis after run 7k km
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efaceninja	Sep 15 2014, 01:47 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #105
New Member Junior Member 12 posts Joined: Apr 2005	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 8 2014, 09:25 AM) » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « oh ya now that you mentioned that, on stock form it does run as rich as 11.x ish on the AFR upon high rpm/high load good point on the RCL, probably something i should take note if i am moving on to GDI in the future btw: or https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/hm8NizaeCB7 if you're having difficulty viewing from my website will write more but first gotta goto office =edit= may check out http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php for explanations on the report Anyways regarding the comments about fuel, because they encourage the oil sample to be taken hot (eg: driving the car for 10-20minutes/up to temperature) to avoid fuel dilutions that may affect the test results. If that cannot be done and a cold sample have to be taken (eg: oil change at proton SC that lets you sit from morning 8am to 12pm ) then it should be mentioned to BSL so that they may take note of the potentially higher fuel % found in the oil sample instead of pointing it out as an issue. for my case as it turns out to be a non issue as fuel was less than 0.5% As for the metal parts, sure, it's nothing unusual as per the report comments, however i did spent quite a lot on additives (namely LM Ceratec and nanoextreme ws2) expecting that wear would be on the absolute minimum considering the claims of respective additives. This lab report either proves me wrong or i'm just expecting way too much Granted yes, sub 10k km is still a very early stage of an engine's life and there are still some breaking in of components, however looking at the universal average on metal wear it's just disappointing. ...... wow you really went-on on an extreme path in your EO thingys. first thing i wanna ask, what's TBN (quick search shows Total Base Number) stands/mean for? see you and the report equates that higher number = oil can use longer.. what's the cost of this analysis? you've to send the oil sample all the way to Fort Wayne, Indiana from malaysia here?? malaysia no such analysis lab ah? like SGS or something.. but anyway, good info from you bro~! mainly on the oil additives part. you know i poured in ceratec into my 40k km engine last time (after heavily poisoned by ~~you~~ this thread (v1), some other local bloggers, online reads, etc). i didn't felt even a slightest change/improvement! haha, i always told myself well, because my engine still very new, and always change oil on time, so the condition inside the engine still very nice and therefore the ceratec can't improve much things. after that i did once poured in BlueChem Nano Engine Super Protection, after 10k of ceratec. this is the only brand of engine additive that's supported (actually distributed) by my SC. still, didn't felt any improvement. felt as in butt dyno here. i've ever since slowed down on my affection on oil additives, or to the extend of engine oil choices in general. since i want to keep my service/warranty record sparkling clean, i can only use the brand supported by my SC, which is, Shell. already claimed 1 unit of speed/ABS sensor, FOC, so i value my warranty lols. anyway, one of my friend who's driving wira SE (7yrs old car?), before that he was using Shell HX-7 10w40 semi. then i ask him to change to LM 15w40 MOS2 Mineral, he did said he felt the power pickup (from example go from traffic light) is better than before, and the FC does improved a bit. hopefully its not placebo.. he has since using that LM after that, as it is cheaper (mineral vs semi) and it feels better than Shell's. This post has been edited by efaceninja*: Sep 15 2014, 01:52 AM
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 15 2014, 02:57 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #106
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(efaceninja @ Sep 15 2014, 01:47 AM) wow you really went-on on an extreme path in your EO thingys. first thing i wanna ask, what's TBN (quick search shows Total Base Number) stands/mean for? see you and the report equates that higher number = oil can use longer.. what's the cost of this analysis? you've to send the oil sample all the way to Fort Wayne, Indiana from malaysia here?? malaysia no such analysis lab ah? like SGS or something.. but anyway, good info from you bro~! mainly on the oil additives part. you know i poured in ceratec into my 40k km engine last time (after heavily poisoned by ~~you~~ this thread (v1), some other local bloggers, online reads, etc). i didn't felt even a slightest change/improvement! haha, i always told myself well, because my engine still very new, and always change oil on time, so the condition inside the engine still very nice and therefore the ceratec can't improve much things. after that i did once poured in BlueChem Nano Engine Super Protection, after 10k of ceratec. this is the only brand of engine additive that's supported (actually distributed) by my SC. still, didn't felt any improvement. *felt as in butt dyno here. i've ever since slowed down on my affection on oil additives, or to the extend of engine oil choices in general. since i want to keep my service/warranty record sparkling clean, i can only use the brand supported by my SC, which is, Shell. already claimed 1 unit of speed/ABS sensor, FOC, so i value my warranty lols. anyway, one of my friend who's driving wira SE (7yrs old car?), before that he was using Shell HX-7 10w40 semi. then i ask him to change to LM 15w40 MOS2 Mineral, he did said he felt the power pickup (from example go from traffic light) is better than before, and the FC does improved a bit. hopefully its not placebo.. he has since using that LM after that, as it is cheaper (mineral vs semi) and it feels better than Shell's. here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_Base_Number the total cost is around 230+ including that hefty postal fee that's even more expensive than the analysis cost itself. i'd look for local labs, except they cost between 300-400+ from the quotations i've been given. until i can find local labs who does this, i guess there's no choice but to send samples all the way to USA. i don't think I've contacted SGS yet, so yeap i've done exactly that via email just now: http://www.sgs.my/en/Automotive/Vehicles-a...t-Analysis.aspx as for additives, it is unfortunate that they do not have better methods to test for other elements (eg: ceramic) and the usefulness of it. as per BSL's Amanda mentioned, it's ok to go with or without additives. they may or may not help, it's ultimately up to individual preferences/engines (types, conditions etc) and so on. i would never know how my engine is without ws2/ceratec since i immediately used them on the first service (yes a bit stupid i know when it comes to objectively trying out things), i guess i was just way too impatient. it's going to take a damn long while before i return to amsoil just to see if ws2/ceratec made it smoother, or it's very capable by it's own since OCI's for inspira are 10k km, and i got a pretty decent stockpile of Motul's 300v btw don't be too easy going on additives that's officially distributed by SC's. proton had X1R and it finally caused serious issues on the CFE engines (and who knows how slow of a death the NA campros are faring all these while, which may have been one of the cause to proton's reputation for "building shit engines") remember, no matter what elements/material additives used, generally they'd still require a carrier, and to maximize profits, said carriers are typically mineral oil and that's what cause most of the issues on engines as with the case with X1R. reference: well, using EO from SC aint so bad if you're not an enthusiast. the only drawback is the obvious higher pricing than market (eg: tesco ) so long you're on the full synthetics that's API SN certified, it's hard to go wrong imho, LM's MOS2 additive isn't a placebo. however in my pursuit for better lubricants, i soon come to realize that it's actually more economical to run full synthetics at longer oil change intervals. imagine liqui moly at 5k km ~rm120/bottle 10k km is 240 + 2 oil filters and 2 labor charges. a full synthetic like amsoil that cost rm180 (or less if you're not going for the high end signature series) can easily push 40k km (25k miles rofl or 24k km/15k miles under severe usage as specified by amsoil), but lets put 10k km for the sake of comparison. see the comparison now? arguably, LM MOS2 semi synthetic can be used past 5k km, however in my own experiences, ~5-6k km the performance would begin to degrade while in full synthetics, going way beyond 10k km is never an issue in any of the vehicles in my household. with all that said though, i still use MOS2 for my kancil, as it had 10k km originally specified even for older API specifications and back then everyone was on mineral oil. supposedly, the 660cc 3 cylinder wouldn't have much blowby/contaminants so it does make sense for the longer OCI.
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izso	Sep 17 2014, 09:24 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #107
New Member Junior Member 48 posts Joined: Jun 2005	rich guy
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fixgd	Sep 22 2014, 08:45 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #108
Look at all my stars!! Senior Member 3,831 posts Joined: Feb 2009 From: PJS 9, Bandar Sunway	» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 15 2014, 02:57 AM) here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_Base_Number the total cost is around 230+ including that hefty postal fee that's even more expensive than the analysis cost itself. i'd look for local labs, except they cost between 300-400+ from the quotations i've been given. until i can find local labs who does this, i guess there's no choice but to send samples all the way to USA. i don't think I've contacted SGS yet, so yeap i've done exactly that via email just now: http://www.sgs.my/en/Automotive/Vehicles-a...t-Analysis.aspx as for additives, it is unfortunate that they do not have better methods to test for other elements (eg: ceramic) and the usefulness of it. as per BSL's Amanda mentioned, it's ok to go with or without additives. they may or may not help, it's ultimately up to individual preferences/engines (types, conditions etc) and so on. i would never know how my engine is without ws2/ceratec since i immediately used them on the first service (yes a bit stupid i know when it comes to objectively trying out things), i guess i was just way too impatient. it's going to take a damn long while before i return to amsoil just to see if ws2/ceratec made it smoother, or it's very capable by it's own since OCI's for inspira are 10k km, and i got a pretty decent stockpile of Motul's 300v btw don't be too easy going on additives that's officially distributed by SC's. proton had X1R and it finally caused serious issues on the CFE engines (and who knows how slow of a death the NA campros are faring all these while, which may have been one of the cause to proton's reputation for "building shit engines") remember, no matter what elements/material additives used, generally they'd still require a carrier, and to maximize profits, said carriers are typically mineral oil and that's what cause most of the issues on engines as with the case with X1R. reference: well, using EO from SC aint so bad if you're not an enthusiast. the only drawback is the obvious higher pricing than market (eg: tesco ) so long you're on the full synthetics that's API SN certified, it's hard to go wrong imho, LM's MOS2 additive isn't a placebo. however in my pursuit for better lubricants, i soon come to realize that it's actually more economical to run full synthetics at longer oil change intervals. imagine liqui moly at 5k km ~rm120/bottle 10k km is 240 + 2 oil filters and 2 labor charges. a full synthetic like amsoil that cost rm180 (or less if you're not going for the high end signature series) can easily push 40k km (25k miles rofl or 24k km/15k miles under severe usage as specified by amsoil), but lets put 10k km for the sake of comparison. see the comparison now? arguably, LM MOS2 semi synthetic can be used past 5k km, however in my own experiences, ~5-6k km the performance would begin to degrade while in full synthetics, going way beyond 10k km is never an issue in any of the vehicles in my household. with all that said though, i still use MOS2 for my kancil, as it had 10k km originally specified even for older API specifications and back then everyone was on mineral oil. supposedly, the 660cc 3 cylinder wouldn't have much blowby/contaminants so it does make sense for the longer OCI. yup that made sense too. how about the oil filter? need special ones or the normal one can last more than 10k?
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 22 2014, 09:44 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #109
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(fixgd @ Sep 22 2014, 08:45 AM) yup that made sense too. how about the oil filter? need special ones or the normal one can last more than 10k? you can always change them halfway; you do not drain your engine oil entirely during oil filter replacement.
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fixgd	Sep 22 2014, 09:47 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #110
Look at all my stars!! Senior Member 3,831 posts Joined: Feb 2009 From: PJS 9, Bandar Sunway	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 22 2014, 09:44 AM) you can always change them halfway; you do not drain your engine oil entirely during oil filter replacement. ic. still need 2 filters. got it.
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 22 2014, 03:04 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #111
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(fixgd @ Sep 22 2014, 09:47 AM) ic. still need 2 filters. got it. most car manufacturers still use back the same filter and have 10k km oci, so it's only 2 filters if you're pushing beyond the regular (that most SC uses) 10k km
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fixgd	Sep 22 2014, 11:39 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #112
Look at all my stars!! Senior Member 3,831 posts Joined: Feb 2009 From: PJS 9, Bandar Sunway	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 22 2014, 03:04 PM) most car manufacturers still use back the same filter and have 10k km oci, so it's only 2 filters if you're pushing beyond the regular (that most SC uses) 10k km ic. usually fully syn can go beyond that (10k) without any problem?
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 23 2014, 01:20 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #113
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(fixgd @ Sep 22 2014, 11:39 PM) ic. usually fully syn can go beyond that (10k) without any problem? most reputable API SN certified fully synthetics have no problem going beyond 10k km. amsoil signature series 0w20 i used was labeled to go between 25-40k km/1 year whichever first.
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fixgd	Sep 23 2014, 06:59 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #114
Look at all my stars!! Senior Member 3,831 posts Joined: Feb 2009 From: PJS 9, Bandar Sunway	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 23 2014, 01:20 AM) most reputable API SN certified fully synthetics have no problem going beyond 10k km. amsoil signature series 0w20 i used was labeled to go between 25-40k km/1 year whichever first. yeah heard bout that too. thats not just some marketing gimmick?
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izso	Sep 23 2014, 07:58 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #115
New Member Junior Member 48 posts Joined: Jun 2005	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 23 2014, 01:20 AM) most reputable API SN certified fully synthetics have no problem going beyond 10k km. amsoil signature series 0w20 i used was labeled to go between 25-40k km/1 year whichever first. Those labels take into consideration of the country and weather. Try that in Malaysian weather and humidity I guarantee your car will have issues in the long run if you constantly use the same oil and OCI.
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 23 2014, 09:36 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #116
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(fixgd @ Sep 23 2014, 06:59 AM) yeah heard bout that too. thats not just some marketing gimmick? QUOTE(izso @ Sep 23 2014, 07:58 AM) Those labels take into consideration of the country and weather. Try that in Malaysian weather and humidity I guarantee your car will have issues in the long run if you constantly use the same oil and OCI. while i have yet to try extreme extended OCI myself (heck, i don't think i can even achieve such high mileage within a year), the UOA report i've included at the first page should be self explanatory. There are also links/guides/wiki on how to read the UOA report, but if you want a summary here: my engine oil after 8500km and ~7ish months of usage came out having more detergent/additives than most engine oil being NEW, now how's that for a surprise? in fact, despite such decently long usage, it has more TBN than torco's SR1 being new according to torco's manufacturer data spec/sheet. (6.6 TBN vs 6.2 TBN)
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 24 2014, 02:09 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #117
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	efaceninja Mahihi update: been more than 10 days, no reply from maxx oil or SGS, lol.
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Mahihi	Sep 24 2014, 06:16 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #118
New Member Junior Member 37 posts Joined: Mar 2006	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 24 2014, 02:09 PM) efaceninja Mahihi update: been more than 10 days, no reply from maxx oil or SGS, lol. haiya,lol....
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Thrust	Sep 25 2014, 07:42 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #119
Power To The People!!! Senior Member 3,561 posts Joined: Oct 2005	API SL fully synthetic oil (PAO formulation) vs API SN fully synthetic (highly refined group 3 oil).. Which is better?
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 25 2014, 07:59 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #120
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(Thrust @ Sep 25 2014, 07:42 AM) API SL fully synthetic oil (PAO formulation) vs API SN fully synthetic (highly refined group 3 oil).. Which is better? SN; If the PAO based stock SL is good enough, surely they can be certified for SN as well, if it isn't, then that means it just isn't good enough.
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one punch man	Sep 26 2014, 11:42 PM Show posts by this member only \| IPv6 \| Post #121
Getting Started Junior Member 234 posts Joined: May 2013	anyone have tried syntium 7000 0w-40 or 5000 0w-30? no review on the net previously used syntium 3000 10w-40...i would prefer the lighter 5000 0w-30 but the 7000 is newer spec
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Thrust	Sep 27 2014, 09:33 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #122
Power To The People!!! Senior Member 3,561 posts Joined: Oct 2005	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 25 2014, 07:59 AM) SN; If the PAO based stock SL is good enough, surely they can be certified for SN as well, if it isn't, then that means it just isn't good enough. I asked because i noted that Honda fully synthetic oil with PAO formulation is graded SL is is selling a lot more expensive than the Honda SN fully synthetic oil. There must be something in which the SL oil is better than the SN.
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TSQuazacolt	Sep 27 2014, 09:43 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #123
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(Thrust @ Sep 27 2014, 09:33 AM) I asked because i noted that Honda fully synthetic oil with PAO formulation is graded SL is is selling a lot more expensive than the Honda SN fully synthetic oil. There must be something in which the SL oil is better than the SN. not always the more expensive product is better.
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Cendol_Pulut90	Sep 28 2014, 06:55 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #124
Getting Started Junior Member 218 posts Joined: Apr 2014 From: Pandan Indah, Kuala Lumpur	QUOTE(one punch man @ Sep 26 2014, 11:42 PM) anyone have tried syntium 7000 0w-40 or 5000 0w-30? no review on the net previously used syntium 3000 10w-40...i would prefer the lighter 5000 0w-30 but the 7000 is newer spec if use lighter one, fc improve or not ? and is there any side effect like engine become slow / more response ? sorry noob here. So far I only use syntium 3000 10w-40 from sc.
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alexkos	Oct 1 2014, 11:16 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #125
Look at all my stars!! Senior Member 2,186 posts Joined: Jun 2010	i just bought shell helix hx7 10w-40 4L at RM110 to service my saga 2005 model car. i felt conned. How much is the market price now?
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TSQuazacolt	Oct 1 2014, 01:51 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #126
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(alexkos @ Oct 1 2014, 11:16 AM) i just bought shell helix hx7 10w-40 4L at RM110 to service my saga 2005 model car. i felt conned. How much is the market price now? tesco parallel import and currently under promotion got full synthetic Shell Helix Ultra with the new pureplus technology at RM129. normal price was 24x or 22x lol
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TSQuazacolt	Oct 1 2014, 08:21 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #127
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	Matrix https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...brandName=tesco really a?
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one punch man	Oct 1 2014, 09:29 PM Show posts by this member only \| IPv6 \| Post #128
Getting Started Junior Member 234 posts Joined: May 2013	QUOTE(Cendol_Pulut90 @ Sep 28 2014, 06:55 AM) if use lighter one, fc improve or not ? and is there any side effect like engine become slow / more response ? sorry noob here. So far I only use syntium 3000 10w-40 from sc. yeah usually lighter eo result in improve fc and faster engine response.
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OC4/3	Oct 1 2014, 11:31 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #129
. Elite 4,720 posts Joined: Dec 2007 From: Speed rule	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 14 2014, 10:49 PM) used oil analysis, may refer to this bro: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69700867 i'm currently running on motul 300v 0w20 at the moment, will be sending mine for another analysis after run 7k km BTW you sent your oil sample to us to do analysis? How much is it and how much it cost?
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TSQuazacolt	Oct 2 2014, 12:36 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #130
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(OC4/3 @ Oct 1 2014, 11:31 PM) BTW you sent your oil sample to us to do analysis? How much is it and how much it cost? uh wut? well the posts/links did mention the pricing numerous time but its ok no harm repeating: usd35 for UOA, poslaju about rm120
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dstl1128	Oct 2 2014, 10:22 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #131
Look at all my stars!! Senior Member 4,463 posts Joined: Jan 2003	Cool. Torco SR-1 is API SN.
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TSQuazacolt	Oct 2 2014, 12:11 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #132
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(dstl1128 @ Oct 2 2014, 10:22 AM) Cool. Torco SR-1 is API SN. yes it is despite the email exchange i had with them see, even with all the difficulties and inconvenience, costing etc, it is still important to have proper certification so that you can strengthen trust with your customers
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coolkwc	Oct 3 2014, 01:59 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #133
Fall in love with audio again. Senior Member 3,090 posts Joined: Jul 2006	QUOTE(alexkos @ Oct 1 2014, 11:16 AM) i just bought shell helix hx7 10w-40 4L at RM110 to service my saga 2005 model car. i felt conned. How much is the market price now? If u want cheap oil, always keep an eye on Tesco promotion. From Mobil 1 20W50(4L), Mobil 0W40(4L), Shell Ultra Helix (5L), Total Quartz Ineo MC3 5W40(5L), all listed here are fully synthetic and mostly is API SN, price range from RM129-149 during promotion. Those cheap oil = recycling oil is totally bullshit.
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empire23	Oct 7 2014, 08:00 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #134
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	Getting my absurdly expensive 8 bottles of Motul DCTF for the Evo X. Only 280 dollars inclusive of shipping. Farkin mahal. I haven't even bought the filter yet for the transmission. Considering draining the BMW's transmission and replacing with Redline 75W90 NS GL-5 Gear Oil as very fast shifts into certain gears seems rough and hard on the synchros. Other than that there doesn't seem to be many issues either way.
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TSQuazacolt	Oct 7 2014, 02:04 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #135
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 7 2014, 08:00 AM) Getting my absurdly expensive 8 bottles of Motul DCTF for the Evo X. Only 280 dollars inclusive of shipping. Farkin mahal. I haven't even bought the filter yet for the transmission. Considering draining the BMW's transmission and replacing with Redline 75W90 NS GL-5 Gear Oil as very fast shifts into certain gears seems rough and hard on the synchros. Other than that there doesn't seem to be many issues either way. going to be replacing my redline MTL as well... this time running without additives for a change. happen to get them cheap on yesterday's SMART event at one Utama for RM48/quart (regular pricing ranges between rm55-65/quart) https://www.facebook.com/1Utama/posts/10152316405381689 swept their last 4 bottles of MTL when they were closing at 8pm lol. probably replacing the gear oil after Sepang, after more wear is induced and then 1 shot drain all of the wear/shavings
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empire23	Oct 7 2014, 02:15 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #136
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 7 2014, 02:04 PM) going to be replacing my redline MTL as well... this time running without additives for a change. happen to get them cheap on yesterday's SMART event at one Utama for RM48/quart (regular pricing ranges between rm55-65/quart) https://www.facebook.com/1Utama/posts/10152316405381689 swept their last 4 bottles of MTL when they were closing at 8pm lol. probably replacing the gear oil after Sepang, after more wear is induced and then 1 shot drain all of the wear/shavings Well it is usually good practice to drain after a stressful event, so it makes good sense. I've been reading around and it seems for DI cars, a lot of people in the know when it comes to oil chemistry swear by this stuff http://www.renewablelube.com/gasoline.html Might just give it a try as it is said to be extremely resistant to fuel dillution.
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TSQuazacolt	Oct 7 2014, 02:20 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #137
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 7 2014, 02:15 PM) Well it is usually good practice to drain after a stressful event, so it makes good sense. I've been reading around and it seems for DI cars, a lot of people in the know when it comes to oil chemistry swear by this stuff http://www.renewablelube.com/gasoline.html Might just give it a try as it is said to be extremely resistant to fuel dillution. the website/claims seems so shady until i see this: http://renewablelube.com/bitog.html i guess it can't be all that bad when there's oil analysis being done
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OC4/3	Oct 9 2014, 02:19 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #138
. Elite 4,720 posts Joined: Dec 2007 From: Speed rule	QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 7 2014, 08:00 AM) Getting my absurdly expensive 8 bottles of Motul DCTF for the Evo X. Only 280 dollars inclusive of shipping. Farkin mahal. I haven't even bought the filter yet for the transmission. Considering draining the BMW's transmission and replacing with Redline 75W90 NS GL-5 Gear Oil as very fast shifts into certain gears seems rough and hard on the synchros. Other than that there doesn't seem to be many issues either way. Why you don't want to stick to OEM Diaqueen DCT oil?? DCTF better then Diaqueen ah?? Jacks Transmission US tested and found Diaquen the best eh
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empire23	Oct 9 2014, 07:22 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #139
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	QUOTE(OC4/3 @ Oct 9 2014, 02:19 AM) Why you don't want to stick to OEM Diaqueen DCT oil?? DCTF better then Diaqueen ah?? Jacks Transmission US tested and found Diaquen the best eh Because it is 50 bucks a litre. Which is somewhat unjustified for a car that is only driven 3 times a month. The OEM Diaqueen SSTF is merely a rebadged Castrol BOT341/Transmax Dual, but it's a lot harder to find. Plus I might be selling the X to fund a nicer car at the end of the year.
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TSQuazacolt	Oct 9 2014, 11:22 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #140
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 9 2014, 07:22 AM) Because it is 50 bucks a litre. Which is somewhat unjustified for a car that is only driven 3 times a month. The OEM Diaqueen SSTF is merely a rebadged Castrol BOT341/Transmax Dual, but it's a lot harder to find. Plus I might be selling the X to fund a nicer car at the end of the year. nicer than the current bmw? all my jelly lol
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empire23	Oct 9 2014, 03:34 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #141
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 9 2014, 11:22 AM) nicer than the current bmw? all my jelly lol It'll be cool. Obviously not BAC Mono cool, but still cool nonetheless.
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OC4/3	Oct 9 2014, 05:31 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #142
. Elite 4,720 posts Joined: Dec 2007 From: Speed rule	QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 9 2014, 07:22 AM) Because it is 50 bucks a litre. Which is somewhat unjustified for a car that is only driven 3 times a month. The OEM Diaqueen SSTF is merely a rebadged Castrol BOT341/Transmax Dual, but it's a lot harder to find. Plus I might be selling the X to fund a nicer car at the end of the year. Nicer as in Porsche? Cayman/Boxster??
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reddevils10	Oct 10 2014, 11:36 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #143
Getting Started Junior Member 83 posts Joined: Jul 2011	Has anyone tried ConocoPhillips EO before? Saw the 76 Super Synthetic Blend 5w30 going for RM21.50/Quart on the forum. Tempting...
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empire23	Oct 11 2014, 07:47 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #144
Team Island Hopper Staff 9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory	QUOTE(OC4/3 @ Oct 9 2014, 05:31 PM) Nicer as in Porsche? Cayman/Boxster?? Nop. Was thinking about a Cayman S with all the added goodies, but I already have a coupe.
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OC4/3	Oct 11 2014, 03:20 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #145
. Elite 4,720 posts Joined: Dec 2007 From: Speed rule	QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 11 2014, 07:47 AM) Nop. Was thinking about a Cayman S with all the added goodies, but I already have a coupe. Then which Porsche??
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y4ng	Oct 12 2014, 12:36 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #146
Kambing Lembu Junior Member 620 posts Joined: Oct 2007	hello all sifus! I am driving a neo cps manual, currently using semi syn Liqui Moly I wanna change to fully syn, looking at torco or motul...any suggestions? grade wise, and of course, good engine protection! thank you!
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TSQuazacolt	Oct 12 2014, 12:47 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #147
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:36 AM) hello all sifus! I am driving a neo cps manual, currently using semi syn Liqui Moly I wanna change to fully syn, looking at torco or motul...any suggestions? grade wise, and of course, good engine protection! thank you! Check your manual, I believe someone mentioned xw30 If that's true, consider trying out 0w20 Then there's budget, for run of the mill, there's Motul h tech 100 plus. About 180 for 4 litres Torco SR1 (i also highly recommended) is more performance oriented however they go for around 240/4 litres There's also motul 8100 series although I haven't tried them out. I have and is currently on their 300v and my god those double esters are smooth! Not cheap though at about 340/4 litres If you're looking for insanely long oci, look no further than amsoil signature series (which I have included uoa on first page) They go at about 180 to 200/4 litres If you want some certification like api, then scale down to amsoil OE series which also guarantees damn long oci as well (iinm 15k miles instead of 25k miles compared to signature series. Yes f***ing miles not km) Should be a bit cheaper than signature series
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y4ng	Oct 12 2014, 12:54 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #148
Kambing Lembu Junior Member 620 posts Joined: Oct 2007	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 12:47 AM) Check your manual, I believe someone mentioned xw30 If that's true, consider trying out 0w20 Then there's budget, for run of the mill, there's Motul h tech 100 plus. About 180 for 4 litres Torco SR1 (i also highly recommended) is more performance oriented however they go for around 240/4 litres There's also motul 8100 series although I haven't tried them out. I have and is currently on their 300v and my god those double esters are smooth! Not cheap though at about 340/4 litres If you're looking for insanely long oci, look no further than amsoil signature series (which I have included uoa on first page) They go at about 180 to 200/4 litres If you want some certification like api, then scale down to amsoil OE series which also guarantees damn long oci as well (iinm 15k miles instead of 25k miles compared to signature series. Yes f***ing miles not km) Should be a bit cheaper than signature series fast reply hehe! i am looking at Torco SR-1R 10W-40, cos my engine overhauled once (cos 1st owner sucked at maintaining), should i go for lower grade? 30s? 5W or 10W dont really make a diff right? i change at 10k when i use fully syn? motul, used by proton's R3 team as well correct? too expensive for RM340 >.< I am looking at 200++ ranges for amsoil, erm malaysia's proton filter kenot last that long, so using so long good meh? lazy go to mechanic as them replace oil filter nia, sure he oso tulan.
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y4ng	Oct 12 2014, 01:08 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #149
Kambing Lembu Junior Member 620 posts Joined: Oct 2007	wait... 300v RM340/4L? Can tell me where you buy?
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TSQuazacolt	Oct 12 2014, 01:34 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #150
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:54 AM) fast reply hehe! i am looking at Torco SR-1R 10W-40, cos my engine overhauled once (cos 1st owner sucked at maintaining), should i go for lower grade? 30s? 5W or 10W dont really make a diff right? i change at 10k when i use fully syn? motul, used by proton's R3 team as well correct? too expensive for RM340 >.< I am looking at 200++ ranges for amsoil, erm malaysia's proton filter kenot last that long, so using so long good meh? lazy go to mechanic as them replace oil filter nia, sure he oso tulan. The R's aren't API SN certified though, and i doubt they'd put any more detergent/additives for to have the oil last. it's as per advertised, for racing purposes, however there's always the SR5 or better racing oils so i'm assuming for the more budget conscious racers perhaps? lol. i use xw20 or xw30 because in malaysia, there's no winter, and w is basically winter grade. there are MINOR differences on the overall viscosity if you check the data specs, so generally i prefer to go a slow as possible, such as 0w20 instead of say 5w20. personally i prefer to go as thin viscosity as possible (if manufacturer says xw30, i'll go 10 lower to xw20) depending on manufacturer. AFAIK Campros are either xw30 or xw40 specified, so xw20/xw30 is no problem. SR1's (or ANY reputable full synthetics especially API SN certified ones) have absolutely NO issue on 10k km, i did 14k km or 16k km afaik (may refer to my previous posts or the ones i saved on first page) 200 ranges i believe the Motul 8100 series would qualify although i've never used them before so i can't personally comment/recommend. the amsoil/torco SR1 all fall into your budget as well. Filter don't last long? no problem! half way down the oci cycle you're free to change the oil filter! can diy or send to workshops paying rm10-20. example: your oci is 20k km, at 10k km just replace the oil filter only, and top up any oil loss during the process you pay mech rm20 also you'd STILL SAVE money in the long run as you only spent 1 time engine oil. he tulan rm 20? go other mechanics. there's plentiful of places who'd gladly accept a quick buck for a quick oil filter replacement. worse case? DIY. QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 01:08 AM) wait... 300v RM340/4L? Can tell me where you buy? hmm should be a typo, 350++ but then again i pretty much bought in bulk and the bill was way over 1k+ to get better pricing
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y4ng	Oct 12 2014, 12:26 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #151
Kambing Lembu Junior Member 620 posts Joined: Oct 2007	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 01:34 AM) The R's aren't API SN certified though, and i doubt they'd put any more detergent/additives for to have the oil last. it's as per advertised, for racing purposes, however there's always the SR5 or better racing oils so i'm assuming for the more budget conscious racers perhaps? lol. i use xw20 or xw30 because in malaysia, there's no winter, and w is basically winter grade. there are MINOR differences on the overall viscosity if you check the data specs, so generally i prefer to go a slow as possible, such as 0w20 instead of say 5w20. personally i prefer to go as thin viscosity as possible (if manufacturer says xw30, i'll go 10 lower to xw20) depending on manufacturer. AFAIK Campros are either xw30 or xw40 specified, so xw20/xw30 is no problem. SR1's (or ANY reputable full synthetics especially API SN certified ones) have absolutely NO issue on 10k km, i did 14k km or 16k km afaik (may refer to my previous posts or the ones i saved on first page) 200 ranges i believe the Motul 8100 series would qualify although i've never used them before so i can't personally comment/recommend. the amsoil/torco SR1 all fall into your budget as well. Filter don't last long? no problem! half way down the oci cycle you're free to change the oil filter! can diy or send to workshops paying rm10-20. example: your oci is 20k km, at 10k km just replace the oil filter only, and top up any oil loss during the process you pay mech rm20 also you'd STILL SAVE money in the long run as you only spent 1 time engine oil. he tulan rm 20? go other mechanics. there's plentiful of places who'd gladly accept a quick buck for a quick oil filter replacement. worse case? DIY. hmm should be a typo, 350++ but then again i pretty much bought in bulk and the bill was way over 1k+ to get better pricing Anytime u r buying 300v? Maybe gatal wanna try hehehe....can share where u buy please?
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TSQuazacolt	Oct 12 2014, 01:58 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #152
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:26 PM) Anytime u r buying 300v? Maybe gatal wanna try hehehe....can share where u buy please? From Zhapalang at kepong http://www.zhapalangmotorsport.com/2010/06/contact-us.html
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Eng_Tat	Oct 12 2014, 02:41 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #153
Look at all my stars!! Senior Member 2,199 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: Cheras, KL.	hi all, want to ask which grade of eo is suitable for 2.4 Alphard for Malaysian weather? 5w/30 10w/30, 5w/40 or 10w/40? many thanks.
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y4ng	Oct 12 2014, 03:08 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #154
Kambing Lembu Junior Member 620 posts Joined: Oct 2007	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 01:58 PM) From Zhapalang at kepong http://www.zhapalangmotorsport.com/2010/06/contact-us.html Thank you! Kepong quite near to where i work maybe i drop by if the price is right =) thank you fr your great advice
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TSQuazacolt	Oct 12 2014, 03:13 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #155
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 03:08 PM) Thank you! Kepong quite near to where i work maybe i drop by if the price is right =) thank you fr your great advice you're welcome
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y4ng	Oct 13 2014, 12:25 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #156
Kambing Lembu Junior Member 620 posts Joined: Oct 2007	yo sifus! chemlube anyone? thinking of bulk and chemlube in my range hehehe (cheaper than sr1)
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TSQuazacolt	Oct 13 2014, 02:05 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #157
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 13 2014, 12:25 AM) yo sifus! chemlube anyone? thinking of bulk and chemlube in my range hehehe (cheaper than sr1) https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...Name%3Dchemlube my only worry is that locally available/distributed chemlube are not on the "CHEMLUBE PREMIUM GOLD FULL SYNTHETIC" label unless the gold color bottle is "premium gold" that and the lack of 0w20 is enough for me to say no. That said, i have however used their gear oil on my kancil 660 MT and experience have been very positive. i had my chemlube gear oil accidentally drained when i replace 1 side of the drive shaft and as workshop help me topped up regular gear oil, the gear shifts feels like shit instantaneously very hard to get into gear especially when it's cold. since my sis is driving it, unless she's willing to fork out the money to get chemlube gear oil back, i'm not going to bother
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y4ng	Oct 13 2014, 08:06 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #158
Kambing Lembu Junior Member 620 posts Joined: Oct 2007	Hmmm i was comparing the specs, seems more or less like sr1. Think i will try one round of sr1 before going for chemlube. Any fake torco out there? I am a bit worried to buy from LYN forummers sometimes when it comes it EO.
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peejayboy	Oct 13 2014, 04:30 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #159
New Member Newbie 1 posts Joined: Apr 2012	QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:54 AM) fast reply hehe! i am looking at Torco SR-1R 10W-40, cos my engine overhauled once (cos 1st owner sucked at maintaining), should i go for lower grade? 30s? 5W or 10W dont really make a diff right? i change at 10k when i use fully syn? motul, used by proton's R3 team as well correct? too expensive for RM340 >.< I am looking at 200++ ranges for amsoil, erm malaysia's proton filter kenot last that long, so using so long good meh? lazy go to mechanic as them replace oil filter nia, sure he oso tulan. Tried and tested Motul H Tech 100 + , honestly there is nothing to shout about where it degrades right after 4k km and engine is terribly rough after that. Try and use Idemitsu fully synthetic 5w30, Syntium 5000 0w30, Total Quartz 9000 5w30 or Torco SR-1 5w30. As for me even if i use fully syn oils, my OCI are always 5000km/3 months or maximum 7000km/5 months. Not anything longer than that. Fyi, Proton oil filter is not that bad in terms of their quality. And usually thinner oil provides better overall lubrication and since you do not redline 24/7, there is no reason to use thicker oil. Just my dua cents
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y4ng	Oct 13 2014, 04:47 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #160
Kambing Lembu Junior Member 620 posts Joined: Oct 2007	QUOTE(peejayboy @ Oct 13 2014, 04:30 PM) Tried and tested Motul H Tech 100 + , honestly there is nothing to shout about where it degrades right after 4k km and engine is terribly rough after that. Try and use Idemitsu fully synthetic 5w30, Syntium 5000 0w30, Total Quartz 9000 5w30 or Torco SR-1 5w30. As for me even if i use fully syn oils, my OCI are always 5000km/3 months or maximum 7000km/5 months. Not anything longer than that. Fyi, Proton oil filter is not that bad in terms of their quality. And usually thinner oil provides better overall lubrication and since you do not redline 24/7, there is no reason to use thicker oil. Just my dua cents hmm okies thanks! i have placed an order for sr-1 for now.. just wondering, u r using neo w r3 extractor but u sold off your 1.5 myvi for it? before i bought my neo cps i was looking at 1.5 myvi manual is it that bad? so what oil are you using currently?
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TSQuazacolt	Oct 13 2014, 05:19 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #161
Riding couple Senior Member 4,703 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia	QUOTE(peejayboy @ Oct 13 2014, 04:30 PM) Tried and tested Motul H Tech 100 + , honestly there is nothing to shout about where it degrades right after 4k km and engine is terribly rough after that. Try and use Idemitsu fully synthetic 5w30, Syntium 5000 0w30, Total Quartz 9000 5w30 or Torco SR-1 5w30. As for me even if i use fully syn oils, my OCI are always 5000km/3 months or maximum 7000km/5 months. Not anything longer than that. Fyi, Proton oil filter is not that bad in terms of their quality. And usually thinner oil provides better overall lubrication and since you do not redline 24/7, there is no reason to use thicker oil. Just my dua cents i do agree that the motul h tech 100 plus is nothing to shout about. (not much difference in smoothness/performance whatsoever) however i do disagree that it degrades after 4k km as i've done OCI of 12-16k km with motul h tech 100 plus without any form of degradation whereas SR1 would lose it's "performance characteristics" around 12k-14k km (iinm, have to dig back on my old review/feedback) no engine roughness at all, and the internals are pretty much sparkling clean/mirror shine as before. fully syn going such short oci is a thing of the past bro. i've done really crazy red lines/fuel cuts (feel free to dig my youtube videos) and yet my UOA report turns out that my amsoil 0w20 i drained out is even fresher than BRAND NEW engine oil after around 7 months and 8500km (higher calcium/TBN than other manufacturers virgin oil) and yes, i am an advocate of thinner lubricants regardless of usage. even most manufacturers (like honda, ford) are pushing the SAE to officialize 0w16
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peejayboy	Oct 13 2014, 06:40 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #162
New Member Newbie 1 posts Joined: Apr 2012	QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 13 2014, 04:47 PM) hmm okies thanks! i have placed an order for sr-1 for now.. just wondering, u r using neo w r3 extractor but u sold off your 1.5 myvi for it? before i bought my neo cps i was looking at 1.5 myvi manual is it that bad? so what oil are you using currently? no probs! i'm still using stock extractor tho, only change the r3 muffler and previously was driving myvi 1.5 auto as it was family car. I would say myvi has better response due to the "drive by cable" setup as compared to drive by wire. But handling and top speed, myvi no match hahah. Now currently on syntium 5000 0w30 by proton sc so far so and how about you? currently driving at or mt neo?
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peejayboy	Oct 13 2014, 06:47 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #163
New Member Newbie 1 posts Joined: Apr 2012	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 13 2014, 05:19 PM) i do agree that the motul h tech 100 plus is nothing to shout about. (not much difference in smoothness/performance whatsoever) however i do disagree that it degrades after 4k km as i've done OCI of 12-16k km with motul h tech 100 plus without any form of degradation whereas SR1 would lose it's "performance characteristics" around 12k-14k km (iinm, have to dig back on my old review/feedback) no engine roughness at all, and the internals are pretty much sparkling clean/mirror shine as before. fully syn going such short oci is a thing of the past bro. i've done really crazy red lines/fuel cuts (feel free to dig my youtube videos) and yet my UOA report turns out that my amsoil 0w20 i drained out is even fresher than BRAND NEW engine oil after around 7 months and 8500km (higher calcium/TBN than other manufacturers virgin oil) and yes, i am an advocate of thinner lubricants regardless of usage. even most manufacturers (like honda, ford) are pushing the SAE to officialize 0w16 Sorry for double posting, didn't saw it earlier. Well to be frank, i've used my myvi as a lab rat before for long OCI (8k km mileage around 6 months) on fully syn oils and the outcome wasn't that great. There's actually alot of factor to be taken into consideration such as start stop traffics, traffic jams, long idling, redlining and so on which is why for me particularly i rather be on the safe side for now. But i believe that everyone has their own way of maintaining their vehicle where there is no right or wrong As for me, oil is much cheaper as compared to spare parts/overhauling lol
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