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TSQuazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 12:10 PM, updated 4 months ago

Riding couple
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Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


Sort of a V2. Considering the departure of Technical talk sub-forum, F&F forum is lacking in technical threads/postings that are derived on logic/facts, with reference materials/links/documents and what not. Really missed those days and hence I hope that with the new thread we can head to a similar direction and have everyone benefit from it.

Useful information/Links:






Quick guide thanks to upontheriversky to get most people started:
QUOTE
1) viscosity at 40 and 100 - the lower the number, the thinner the oil, the better the lubrication. from here, we may sometimes see 0w30 can be much thinner than 10w30.

2) Viscosity index - oil ability to behave at rated viscosity at wide range of temperatures. Higher number means higher viscosity stability. important for high heat engine - turbos and high rev NA. lower number means, the viscosity will change a lot from what stated at the back of bottle at different oil temperature than 40 and 100 celcius so it is not good.

3) NOACK volatility - oil weight loss due to evaporation, the number is in percentage. the lower the better. important for turbos coz even branded oil may have high NOACK number which contributes to oil evaporation even in no-leak engines. As oil evaporates, the lighter weight will give up first, leaving the heavier oil so oil becomes thicker and less performance.

4) High temp/high shear viscosity - oil ability to sustain the mentioned condition, the higher the better. most important for turbos and racing engines.

5) Total Base Number - this is the most important feature for all average users like me to see whether the oil can actually be used for long time or not. this is the reserved alkalinity to resist fuel dilution of engine oil from combustion. Fuel dilution makes the oil acidic and therefore oxidized faster. The higher the better. Higher TBN also usually means the oil has lots of detergent which is good for engine cleanliness. Amsoil has the highest as far as i know. So there is no need for rigid classification of fully syn has to be changed at 10k, semi at 7k and so on, look at the TBN and do ur own comparison. Whatever close to 10 is good, higher is best and lower is so-so only. minimum would be 7-8 as dictated by SAE if im not mistaken

To sum up, 0w20 oil may be very thin but if the Viscosity Index and NOACK is really good, u wont experience as much oil loss or bad engine wear as compared to 10w30 having really bad NOACK and Viscosity Index. The specs are there, we just need to learn how to interpret so that we can all stop beating the bush when it comes to what oil is suitable for our application.

For enthusiast/speed chaser:
- pay attention to all specs mentioned above

For average daily drive and normal maintenance:
- pay particular attention to Total Base Number

If the brand of oil you are comparing does not provide any of the info above, it can simply means that the oil did not pass the test or the test result is not impressive that they hide it so people would still buy. We wont be able to say its bad until we see bad test numbers, so hide it and call it good stuff, people will still buy and call it good. Its all about sales in the end biggrin.gif

for example, try see castrol oil spec whether they have half of the specs i mentioned above and see amsoil, redline and torco specs on the web, these branded oil have nothing to hide biggrin.gif

The above is exactly why i stress on proper certification (eg: API) and proper lab analysis/testing/data sheets/technical specs. smile.gif

Wiki on Engine Oil
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

API specifications
http://www.api.org/certification-programs/...NGLISH_2013.pdf
http://www.oilspecifications.org/api_eolcs.php
API Engine Oil Classifications (from infineum)
https://www.infineum.com/media/80723/api-en...sifications.pdf

How much does it cost/royalty fee to get an engine oil certified?

Full documentation on API Licensing/certification/tests

ILSAC GF-5 specifications:
http://www.gf-5.com/uploads/File/ILSAC_GF-...22-09_final.pdf
http://www.gf-5.com/uploads/File/Final-GF5...ent-1-23-08.pdf
http://www.gf-5.com/uploads/File/API%20SN%20Discussion.pdf

PQI America (good site with oil analysis from EO bought off shelves at random)
http://www.pqiamerica.com/
http://www.pqiamerica.com/resourceroom/apiserviceclass.html

Car bible
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

BITOG (bob is the oil guy website/forums)
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm
oil shearing:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/oilshear.htm
viscosity:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/putting-the-...into-viscosity/
esters:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/esters-in-sy...tic-lubricants/
Acceptable levels of wear/guides on oil analysis
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/whatisoilanalysis.htm

Blackstone Labs - one of the more popular labs used by many BITOG members for their oil analysis
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
explanation on BSL reports:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php

API Licencing directory query (very useful to determine whether an Engine oil is actually certified)
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsSearch

old v1 link:
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1438525
nostalgia lane:
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2072678
props to upontheriversky upon taking the initiative to learn and debunk on old theories/traditional thoughts.
noticed how many of us were young/unknowing (including myself!)
and this is me staying true to my words brows.gif
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=47469990

some information i have compiled on gear lubrication (for the F5MBB only though):
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=66977922

some GTL discussion (shell/pennzoil pureplus):
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=68597152

lol esters:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ester#List_of_ester_odorants


Motorcycle / Bike Section
main website of JASO:
http://www.jalos.or.jp/
Motorcycle 4T section of JASO:
http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/jaso_e-2.htm

JASO certification application manual, includes classification details and test methods etc:
http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV1105.pdf

List of JASO certified lubricants:
http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV_LIST.pdf
updated 1st February 2016, so most of the previously printed lubricant on the market may not match this list

external information for JASO:
http://www.oilspecifications.org/jaso.php
further details for JASO MA/MB classifications:
http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/..._MA_JASO_MB.php


Motorcycle / Bike Front fork/Suspensions fluid (or oil) viscosity charts:
http://www.quazacolt.com/bike/suspensions/...m_Transmoto.pdf

http://www.quazacolt.com/bike/suspensions/...ension_oils.pdf


Motorcycle / Bike chain videos:
Myth of chain lube - wear and tear explained:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

WBW chain lube application reviews:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Chain lube research paper - comparing wax, PTFE, drip oil and un-lubed chain wear:
http://eprints.whiterose.ac.uk/4869/1/leepm7.pdf

bike chain videos and research paper links thanks to forum member alexei

Finally a Motorcycle UOA
Torco T-4SR product page and spec sheet
https://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/t4sr.html
https://www.torcousa.com/technology/T-4SR.pdf
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

related post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=92734166

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: May 20 2019, 05:45 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 12:10 PM

Riding couple
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Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


For the old review/feedback format, lets try something new:

QUOTE
Brand/model: Motul H-Tech 100 Plus
Official website/link: https://www.motul.com/my/en/products/oils-l...viscosity%5D=33
Technical data sheet: https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1339480271
MSDS if available: Motul requires email details
API license directory if available: https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...520100%2520plus

Viscosity: 5w30
Price: RM180/4 Liter

Vehicle used on: Proton Iswara 4g15 AT, Nissan Sentra N16 AT
Comments/Feedback: Satisfying, able to withstand extended OCI (oil change intervals) easily without any performance degradation even until the very end prior to draining. I've ran 14-16k km/6months to around a year of OCI without issues.

Engine internals are still sparkling clean on the over 300k km year 1999 iswara, while the 170k km year 2007 Sentra did not show any signs of sludge build up whatsoever. High RPM/red lines are still smooth and without any noticeable issue even towards the very end of the extended OCI.

Take note that both cars have their oil filters replaced halfway of their respective engine oil life cycle.
Copy paste template:
CODE

[B]Brand/model:[/B]
[B]Official website/link:[/B]
[B]Technical data sheet:[/B]
[B]MSDS if available:[/B]
[B]API license directory if available:[/B]

[B]Viscosity:[/B]
[B]Price:[/B]

[B]Vehicle used on:[/B]
[B]Comments/Feedback:[/B]






Ok i have to park some UOA samples here as i reached image posting limitation per post sad.gif
So for now, anything GT86 related will sit here.


Quazacolt's UOA (used oil analysis) samples:

Toyota GT86
Engine
Unknown oil that came with Recond car
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Motul 300v 0w20
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Penrite Racing 0 0w20
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Transmission
Motul Gear 300 75w90
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

related posts: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=92721706
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=99008337


Contributions from friends within GT86 BRZ group Malaysia
GT86 Shell Helix Ultra GTL 5w40 from Giant Promotion (Made in Germany)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

GT86 Eneos Sustina 0w20
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

BRZ Motul 300v 5w30
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

related posts: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=92714301
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=99008337

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Nov 21 2020, 03:16 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 12:15 PM

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Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


Other information

Viscosity converting table:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/viscosit...rter-d_413.html

Torco's API certification screencapture:
Attached Image
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...anyName%3Dtorco
Torco replies to my query:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «



the initial reply before the more formatted/detailed one:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Another add on from sifu/staff pertaining Torco's reply
QUOTE(sleepwalker @ Jul 31 2012, 03:42 PM)
Rather interesting reply from Torco and a lot will think, wow.. definitely good stuff. Then again, if you do a little research into why API has been reducing the amount of zinc in the engine oil, you will understand why Torco can't get the API donut.

Check this link to know why API standards have been reducing the zinc content.

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0803sr...il/viewall.html

Viscosity does not translate into protection. Film strength provides the protection from shearing but there is no film strength indicator. Viscosity just means the fluids resistances to flow which is another meaning for being thick or thin. A lower viscosity number does not always mean lower protection.
*
Liqui Moly's API certification screencapture:
Attached Image
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...anyName%3Dliqui
Liqui Moly replies to my query(in email dialog form):
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


AMSOIL FAQ on API licensing:
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible_amsoilFAQ.html

research paper on moly/MOS2
http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/report/e-report/00E115e.pdf


Some of Quazacolt's (current TS) reviews that covers extended oil change intervals:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=63666846
Iswara that's practicing extended OCI: http://twitpic.com/doro53
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=65204477
It's currently >70k km and running on Motul H-tech 100 plus xw30 smile.gif

Why should one do UOA? watch the sample/real life experience video
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

in this video, it shows early detection of coolant leak (head gasket) before the situation gets serious.
also note that it was mentioned that there was no visible symptoms in the oil (frothing and what not due to coolant mixing with engine oil)
The only way to know, and prevent a hefty engine repair bill, is a UOA smile.gif

additional info for uoa:
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2016/06/10...m-oil-analysis/



What are acceptable wear levels from UOA samples?
Generally, anything under 100ppm, for references:
http://www.boucherandjones.com/lubeservices.htm
http://www.ppmoiltesting.com/eval1.html

Quazacolt's UOA (used oil analysis) samples:


engine
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Transmission
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


https://plus.google.com/u/0/+JasonLimQuazac...sts/bhQZhvzXheC
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=72742217
latest related post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=92734166

https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/hm8NizaeCB7
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69700867



Other members UOA sample:
alcyon
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «



from a friend within GT86 BRZ group Malaysia
Mercedes A45 AMG on Petronas Syntium 7000
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

related post: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=92714301



VOA Samples:
Courtesy of forumer mayalab
Mobil 1 Extended performance 5w30
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Mobil 1 Advance 0w40
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «



report explanation http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php


Synthetic or mineral/conventional oil?
https://gallery.mailchimp.com/f641390cba421...uly_2016.01.pdf
you'd be surprised at the results! brows.gif


Engine Oil Additives
Here's BSL (Amanda) take on EO additives:
QUOTE
Some additives do not show up in our tests. For example, we don't test for tungsten as part of our normal test, so we might not see that additive in our sample.

We don't normally see any real benefit to running additives, but we don't really see any problems from it either, at least not in our tests.

I'm not sure what the additive companies use as their base stock because we're not able to test the base stock in our lab.

Our general theory on additives is that the oil already has additives present, so there's not really any benefit to adding more stuff when the oil is already formulated very carefully. But then again, we haven't seen any evidence that they hurt anything, so if you like them, then by all means, keep using them! Maybe once you see your oil analysis results, you'll start to experiment by using additives sometimes and not other times, just to see how the engine does with and without them.
Original question from me:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


something to read on in regards to WS2 additives:
pdf click
It's a research/testing done by Millitary.



to those interested to know about long OCI:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...opics/1064407/1

some comments from an engine engineer on a mazda forum:
QUOTE
Boy; a lot of opinions and mis-information here. I am an engine engineer from Detroit with about 30 years of experience, so let me list a few truths:

1. An oil filter will never actually fill-up with contaminants, dirt, etc. unless someone sabotages your engine. There is a lot of capacity in a typical filter cartridge and engines don't really generate that much filterable soot and dirt. Most of the soot is too small to be filtered by anything but a special bypass filter. The real reason we change filters, is that the paper and glue that holds the insides together will not last forever; years, but not forever, and also to get that old oil out of the filter. Use a good quality filter that has a very high efficiency rating in the ASTM spec test. I like the Pure-1 or Bosch filters.
2. Really hard street driving is still a walk-in-the-park compared to the manufacturers standard General Durability tests, where the engine is cycled continuously between peak power and peak torque for hundreds of hours. One exception would be road-racing if you don't have a good oil-cooler and you let the oil temp get above 250F. The real severe-duty as far as oil is concerned is lots of idling and short trips. When you idle, your combustion quality is poorest, so you have extra fuel-dilution. Also in extended idling, your oil temperature rarely get above 150F which is what is needed to drive off fuel and water vapor from the oil.
Whenever an engine is running, blowby gasses get past the rings and enter the crankcase where it mixes with the oil. These blowby gasses are exhaust gas, which means it contains a lot of water vapor which when it hits the cold crankcase, condenses into liquid water. The faster you can warm-up your engine (by driving not idling), the sooner you can start to boil-off the water (and fuel) in your crankcase.
3. The main reason why oil turns dark is that the hottest spots in the engine (top of cylinder liners, pistons, exhaust side of head, etc.) slowly "cook" the oil through oxidation. Think of putting cooking oil in a fry pan and overheating it, it will darken. There are other chemical processes that degrade the oil as it mixes with Nitric Oxides in the crankcase. In GDI engines there is also a bit of soot from combustion that gets picked-up by the oil and suspended in solution by the detergents. The soot particles are typically in the sub-micron size, so they just pass-through the filter and are also small enough to not hurt the bearings and other wear surfaces in the engine. Synthetic oil has a lot higher temperature resistance than conventional mineral oils and so it cooks more slowly.
4. The net effect of oil dilution by water and fuel, effects of time at high temperature, and other chemical reactions in the crankcase, mean that eventually the oil will get out-of spec regarding its viscosity and its ability to keep the inside of the engine clean; as the detergent, anti-corrosion, anti-sludge, and anti-foam additive packages wear-out. The quality or age of the oil filter can't change this. If you just follow the manufacturers recommended change interval (or the maintenance computer) you should be on the safe and conservative side.

Dave
source:
http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-20...tml#post1413082



Brake Fluid
Comparison of Motul's DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 products:

5.1
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1335380510
Viscosity at -40°C (-40°F) 820 mm²/s
Viscosity at 100°C (212°F) 2.1 mm²/s

RBF600 (dot 4)
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1340122148
Viscosity at -40°C (-40°F) 1750 mm²/s
Viscosity at 100°C (212°F) 2.5 mm²/s

RBF660 (dot 4)
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1340124817
Viscosity at -40 °C (-40 °F) 1698 mm²/s
Viscosity at 100 °C (212 °F) 2.59 mm²/s

just to make sure everyone is on the same page, similarly with engine oil, it is easier to push thinner liquid, than thicker liquid.
for references pertaining viscosity:
http://www.dixcel.co.jp/en/subcontent/lite...terature02.html

http://www.viscopedia.com/viscosity-tables...ve-brake-fluid/




Specific Car information
Myvi
EO recommended: API SJ and above 5w30
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hi4gni9fsrg90te/Myvi%20LB%20Specification%20List.pdf?dl=0 dropbox link no longer valid (feel free to contribute new link/service manual pdf etc)

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Sep 6 2021, 01:42 AM
goldfries
post Aug 5 2014, 12:26 PM

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OK pinned.
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 12:27 PM

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QUOTE(goldfries @ Aug 5 2014, 12:26 PM)
OK pinned.
*
Thank you very much thumbup.gif
goldfries
post Aug 5 2014, 12:27 PM

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https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1438525 <=-- do include the link to V1 in your 1st post. biggrin.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 12:28 PM

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Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(goldfries @ Aug 5 2014, 12:27 PM)
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1438525 <=-- do include the link to V1 in your 1st post. biggrin.gif
*
oops missed out; done!

=edit=
everyone else please let me know if i am missing out anything else, or if you'd like to suggest something be pinned on the first page smile.gif

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Aug 5 2014, 03:27 PM
Max
post Aug 5 2014, 04:39 PM

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must parking here.. biggrin.gif
kennywee92
post Aug 5 2014, 07:45 PM

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Great work there TS! thumbup.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 08:00 PM

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From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(kennywee92 @ Aug 5 2014, 07:45 PM)
Great work there TS! thumbup.gif
*
thanks for the kind words bro, glad that people can benefit from it nod.gif
empire23
post Aug 5 2014, 08:14 PM

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I like the fact that this new threat is more geared towards fluids and lubricants in general. There are a lot of fluids that make a car tick and EO is just one of them and thus having a decent pinned thread to discuss them is definitely a good thing.
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 08:59 PM

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From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 5 2014, 08:14 PM)
I like the fact that this new threat is more geared towards fluids and lubricants in general. There are a lot of fluids that make a car tick and EO is just one of them and thus having a decent pinned thread to discuss them is definitely a good thing.
*
glad you agree to it too thumbup.gif

a bit far fetched, but if Malaysians can be more educated on this matter, maybe we can get a demand on UOA, and local labs could lower their pricing!

i find it saddening when the cost to perform UOA here is more expensive than me sending over to USA even with FOREX + heavy postage rates (the postage fee is more expensive than converted uoa fee rofl) combined together.
izso
post Aug 5 2014, 09:56 PM

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Fatality : Pennzoil is a cheap and cheerful oil. Not designed for motorsports but quite good for daily consumption since it's cheap and OEM for Toyota.

And I got my Eneos Touring expensive cuz bought from... Eneos. My mistake really. LOL.. and 95 is cheap!

kalvinkhoo : 5W30 and 10W30 no difference except cold start viscosity. And in Malaysia 5 or 10 doesn't make a difference. In a winter country this would matter.
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 10:34 PM

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QUOTE(izso @ Aug 5 2014, 09:56 PM)
Fatality : Pennzoil is a cheap and cheerful oil. Not designed for motorsports but quite good for daily consumption since it's cheap and OEM for Toyota.

And I got my Eneos Touring expensive cuz bought from... Eneos. My mistake really. LOL.. and 95 is cheap!

kalvinkhoo : 5W30 and 10W30 no difference except cold start viscosity. And in Malaysia 5 or 10 doesn't make a difference. In a winter country this would matter.
*
help you link tongue.gif

[Fatalit[Y]] kalvinkhoo
hmm not even sure if it works with his brackets lol

anyways for your future reference:
CODE
[@[F]atalit[Y]] [@kalvinkhoo]


now on pennzoil:




they say same wo tongue.gif

ANNNNDDDDD it's available at tesco at a bargain:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69341868
pennzoil/shell partnership btw wink.gif

i'd get it in a heartbeat if it's 0w20 lol
efaceninja
post Aug 5 2014, 10:42 PM

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finally a pinned thread on car lubes~~!
too bad i finally resorted to strictly comply to my manufacturer's oil until warranty is out.
izso
post Aug 6 2014, 07:54 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 5 2014, 10:42 PM)
finally a pinned thread on car lubes~~! 
too bad i finally resorted to strictly comply to my manufacturer's oil until warranty is out.
*
Got the budget? Swap to manufacturers oil, then immediately after that drive to a mechanic and change the oil to your own choice
efaceninja
post Aug 6 2014, 08:37 AM

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QUOTE(izso @ Aug 6 2014, 07:54 AM)
Got the budget? Swap to manufacturers oil, then immediately after that drive to a mechanic and change the oil to your own choice
*
Woh, don't have that kind of budget man.
izso
post Aug 6 2014, 08:50 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 6 2014, 08:37 AM)
Woh, don't have that kind of budget man.
*
In that case what car are you driving? What does the warranty cover? If it's those 3+2 stories where 2 is insurance company coverage, you can forget about ever using your own oil. Insurance coverage is a b****. If it's 3 years manufacturer warranty you might be able to get away with using your own oil at the service center (you have to ask if you can bring your own oil. Some allow)
kalvinkhoo
post Aug 6 2014, 09:50 AM

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BEST!! NOTED!! thumbup.gif thumbup.gif
kalvinkhoo
post Aug 6 2014, 09:53 AM

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From: Penang, Malaysia.



QUOTE(izso @ Aug 5 2014, 09:56 PM)
Fatality : Pennzoil is a cheap and cheerful oil. Not designed for motorsports but quite good for daily consumption since it's cheap and OEM for Toyota.

And I got my Eneos Touring expensive cuz bought from... Eneos. My mistake really. LOL.. and 95 is cheap!

kalvinkhoo : 5W30 and 10W30 no difference except cold start viscosity. And in Malaysia 5 or 10 doesn't make a difference. In a winter country this would matter.
*
oh so the number in-front actually is for the temperature? hmmmm... noob in old i hope u dont mind me asking.


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 5 2014, 10:34 PM)
help you link tongue.gif

[Fatalit[Y]] kalvinkhoo
hmm not even sure if it works with his brackets lol

anyways for your future reference:
CODE
[@[F]atalit[Y]] [@kalvinkhoo]


now on pennzoil:

they say same wo tongue.gif

ANNNNDDDDD it's available at tesco at a bargain:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69341868
pennzoil/shell partnership btw wink.gif

i'd get it in a heartbeat if it's 0w20 lol
*
Thnaks alot!

This post has been edited by kalvinkhoo: Aug 6 2014, 09:53 AM
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 6 2014, 10:52 AM

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QUOTE(kalvinkhoo @ Aug 6 2014, 09:53 AM)
oh so the number in-front actually is for the temperature? hmmmm... noob in old i hope u dont mind me asking.
*
read this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#Grades
izso
post Aug 7 2014, 07:59 AM

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QUOTE(kalvinkhoo @ Aug 6 2014, 09:53 AM)
oh so the number in-front actually is for the temperature? hmmmm... noob in old i hope u dont mind me asking.


Aiyo.. go google "bobtheoilguy". His explanation is the easiest to understand.

I wrote something about this sometime ago in ZTH : http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/fea...ngine-oils.html

It's not quite temperature. It's the viscosity index when cold. The other number after "w" is the viscosity index at 100 degrees Celsius (usually means warmed up engine temp, not quite but close).

There's a lot to learn about engine oils. Do your research and buy based on your budget.

empire23
post Aug 7 2014, 01:02 PM

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I've got 4 cans of 300V on the way to service my Evo and a bottle of Penrite 10Tenths for flush with Liquimoly flushing fluid. Only because I've neglected to service the car for a bit due to being onsite and my housemates driving it around for a bit.

Also doing the 1500km break in service for my BMW. But this time with strong fluid that resists crankcase dilution because the N54 and N55 are very famous engines for utterly destroying even the toughest engine oils due to the ultra high pressure direct injection it uses. This might be a tough one to figure out.

TSQuazacolt
post Aug 7 2014, 06:08 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 7 2014, 01:02 PM)
I've got 4 cans of 300V on the way to service my Evo and a bottle of Penrite 10Tenths for flush with Liquimoly flushing fluid. Only because I've neglected to service the car for a bit due to being onsite and my housemates driving it around for a bit.

Also doing the 1500km break in service for my BMW. But this time with strong fluid that resists crankcase dilution because the N54 and N55 are very famous engines for utterly destroying even the toughest engine oils due to the ultra high pressure direct injection it uses. This might be a tough one to figure out.
*
what are you planning for the BMW? considering "1500km break in service", new car? the dealer don't restrict outside EO?
empire23
post Aug 7 2014, 06:33 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 7 2014, 06:08 PM)
what are you planning for the BMW? considering "1500km break in service", new car? the dealer don't restrict outside EO?
*
BMW M cars come with requirement for a 1500/1600km oil and filter change. They call it the "break in" service.

BMW does recommend Castrol, but I can use any oil I want them to put in as long as it meets requirements. But the challenges of a direct injection engine are unique due to fuel dilution causing viscosity loss. There are a lot of recommendations for Renewable Lube's BioSyn made for the Audi RS4 engine (another DI engine), but I rather not ship 20 litres of lube on freight.

Also reading the N55HP's technical documentation also shows that under low loading, the Bosch ECU allows the engine oil temp to rise to about 130 Celsius in order to thin itself and lower parasitic drag, plus it also engages lean burn which also increases the cylinder temperature. It saves fuel, but remember that for every 5 to 10 celsius, your oil oxidization increases by 100 percent.

I'm not sure what to consider that is locally available. Might have to switch to Shell V-Power which has lubricity modifiers in the time being while thinking about it.
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post Aug 7 2014, 08:56 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 7 2014, 06:33 PM)
BMW M cars come with requirement for a 1500/1600km oil and filter change. They call it the "break in" service.

BMW does recommend Castrol, but I can use any oil I want them to put in as long as it meets requirements. But the challenges of a direct injection engine are unique due to fuel dilution causing viscosity loss. There are a lot of recommendations for Renewable Lube's BioSyn made for the Audi RS4 engine (another DI engine), but I rather not ship 20 litres of lube on freight.

Also reading the N55HP's technical documentation also shows that under low loading, the Bosch ECU allows the engine oil temp to rise to about 130 Celsius in order to thin itself and lower parasitic drag, plus it also engages lean burn which also increases the cylinder temperature. It saves fuel, but remember that for every 5 to 10 celsius, your oil oxidization increases by 100 percent.

I'm not sure what to consider that is locally available. Might have to switch to Shell V-Power which has lubricity modifiers in the time being while thinking about it.
*
ah that's quite similar to almost every car brands in Malaysia although ours on 1k km instead.

I wish the same can be said about the bolded part in Malaysia. Dealers here are just wanting excuses to void your warranty sad.gif

wow nice technical details on the N55HP; I *think* the 4B1x engages similar operation considering the AFR from dyno charts. Not to mention the engine idles really hot and if you're speeding (could be just more ram air to cool the engine compartment) it cools down quite a bit more. Not sure on the oil temps since i haven't gotten my OBD scanners and i don't think on stock there's oil temperature sensors. (will have to verify on this at a later date)

btw if you're looking for lubricity modifiers, have you tried out Torco's RCL? that could be just what you're looking for, at probably much cheaper price comparing to v power daily.
empire23
post Aug 8 2014, 08:05 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 7 2014, 08:56 PM)
ah that's quite similar to almost every car brands in Malaysia although ours on 1k km instead.

I wish the same can be said about the bolded part in Malaysia. Dealers here are just wanting excuses to void your warranty sad.gif

wow nice technical details on the N55HP; I *think* the 4B1x engages similar operation considering the AFR from dyno charts. Not to mention the engine idles really hot and if you're speeding (could be just more ram air to cool the engine compartment) it cools down quite a bit more. Not sure on the oil temps since i haven't gotten my OBD scanners and i don't think on stock there's oil temperature sensors. (will have to verify on this at a later date)

btw if you're looking for lubricity modifiers, have you tried out Torco's RCL? that could be just what you're looking for, at probably much cheaper price comparing to v power daily.
*
The 4B11 is generally a bit hot, you'll generally see a rise in temps after you slow down after a long run. I don't believe the engine runs lean as the 4B11s are notorious for running overly rich to keep the cylinders cool. That's why you tend to get a lot of extra performance if you try and tune them with the "advance and lean till knock" method. I don't recall an oil pressure and temp sensor on the 4B11, so you might have to drill and tap your own.

I think chucking in Torco's RCL which is oil soluble will compound my issues further, plus I believe it is for a MPFI engine rather than GDI. I think the best solution is either to get a fuel like V-Power that resists being absorbed into the oil or an oil that resists absorption. I'd prefer the oil solution, because I'm so cheap I usually fill the car up with RON91 Ethanol blend if I don't plan on going fast laugh.gif


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post Aug 8 2014, 09:25 AM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 8 2014, 08:05 AM)
The 4B11 is generally a bit hot, you'll generally see a rise in temps after you slow down after a long run. I don't believe the engine runs lean as the 4B11s are notorious for running overly rich to keep the cylinders cool. That's why you tend to get a lot of extra performance if you try and tune them with the "advance and lean till knock" method. I don't recall an oil pressure and temp sensor on the 4B11, so you might have to drill and tap your own.

I think chucking in Torco's RCL which is oil soluble will compound my issues further, plus I believe it is for a MPFI engine rather than GDI. I think the best solution is either to get a fuel like V-Power that resists being absorbed into the oil or an oil that resists absorption. I'd prefer the oil solution, because I'm so cheap I usually fill the car up with RON91 Ethanol blend if I don't plan on going fast
*
oh ya now that you mentioned that, on stock form it does run as rich as 11.x ish on the AFR upon high rpm/high load laugh.gif

good point on the RCL, probably something i should take note if i am moving on to GDI in the future thumbup.gif

btw:
user posted image
or https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/hm8NizaeCB7 if you're having difficulty viewing from my website

will write more but first gotta goto office

=edit=
may check out http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php for explanations on the report

Anyways regarding the comments about fuel, because they encourage the oil sample to be taken hot (eg: driving the car for 10-20minutes/up to temperature) to avoid fuel dilutions that may affect the test results.
If that cannot be done and a cold sample have to be taken (eg: oil change at proton SC that lets you sit from morning 8am to 12pm sweat.gif) then it should be mentioned to BSL so that they may take note of the potentially higher fuel % found in the oil sample instead of pointing it out as an issue.

for my case as it turns out to be a non issue as fuel was less than 0.5% biggrin.gif

As for the metal parts, sure, it's nothing unusual as per the report comments, however i did spent quite a lot on additives (namely LM Ceratec and nanoextreme ws2) expecting that wear would be on the absolute minimum considering the claims of respective additives.
This lab report either proves me wrong or i'm just expecting way too much laugh.gif
Granted yes, sub 10k km is still a very early stage of an engine's life and there are still some breaking in of components, however looking at the universal average on metal wear it's just disappointing.

AMSOIL clearly proven it's claim, 6.6TBN after 8500 km of very hard driving, constant red lines when some engine oil even STARTS OUT with around 6 TBN (even torco SR1 that's also APN SN/GF5 certified: http://www.torcousa.com/technology/TDS_SR-1%20MotorOil.pdf )
Their 25k Miles claim does ring some truth in it wink.gif

Hell, look at the calcium value, that's generally detergent/dispersant commonly used in EO additives.
Most EO (unless you're on diesel/HDEO) don't even start out that high much less a 8500km used EO thumbup.gif

Viscosity is ROCK SOLID, hell it's even thicker than it's original datasheet: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf considering contaminants and fuel dillution that generally thins out EO viscosity when subjected to heat (likewise thicker on cold, hence morning/cold start sluggish performance on some vehicles on certain engine oils wink.gif )

i do suspect it could be a case of diluted additives into the oil, but who knows. (the nano ceramic particles are quite viscous, not sure if the viscosity test took that into account)

Now for this interesting bit:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manganese#Manganese_in_gasoline
i'm wondering if it's due to the use of RCL, Octane boosters (used amsoil dominators and torco's accelerator) or it comes as a natural additive in our Petronas Primax fuel.

Hell, it could even be the Techron additive i used previously although http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...t&Number=273248 & http://www.techron.com/what-is-techron/proven-science.aspx doesn't seem to indicate so.

i'll stop on those car "drugs" for the time being (never used any after my service/oil drain) and see how it turns out on next lab test wink.gif

Also, here's BSL (Amanda) take on EO additives:
QUOTE
Some additives do not show up in our tests. For example, we don't test for tungsten as part of our normal test, so we might not see that additive in our sample.

We don't normally see any real benefit to running additives, but we don't really see any problems from it either, at least not in our tests.

I'm not sure what the additive companies use as their base stock because we're not able to test the base stock in our lab.

Our general theory on additives is that the oil already has additives present, so there's not really any benefit to adding more stuff when the oil is already formulated very carefully. But then again, we haven't seen any evidence that they hurt anything, so if you like them, then by all means, keep using them! Maybe once you see your oil analysis results, you'll start to experiment by using additives sometimes and not other times, just to see how the engine does with and without them.
Original question from me:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Aug 8 2014, 03:07 PM
kalvinkhoo
post Aug 8 2014, 09:39 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 6 2014, 10:52 AM)
QUOTE(izso @ Aug 7 2014, 07:59 AM)
Aiyo.. go google "bobtheoilguy". His explanation is the easiest to understand.

I wrote something about this sometime ago in ZTH : http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/fea...ngine-oils.html

It's not quite temperature. It's the viscosity index when cold. The other number after "w" is the viscosity index at 100 degrees Celsius (usually means warmed up engine temp, not quite but close).

There's a lot to learn about engine oils. Do your research and buy based on your budget.
*
thats awesome thanks guys!
empire23
post Aug 8 2014, 07:14 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 8 2014, 09:25 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
I usually don't use any additives and unless there is a specific needs for them or a technical reason behind them. For now the only thing I plan on using is concentrated spray intake cleaner for my BMW and only because it is a GDI engine. I agree with BSL's assessment that the EO is already formulated for to meet its product target.

As for the Evo X I've bought some intake cleaner for it as the EGR and PCV system would have slightly dirtied the turbocharger and intake manifolds after 70000km so I thought why the hell not. Also got a can of LiquiMoly Detox, the industrial strength and more potent version of the standard 300ml LiquiMoly Engine Flush.

user posted image

Probably just mineral turps but it's concentrated and comes in a huge 500ml bottle, so I figured "why not?" laugh.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 8 2014, 07:22 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 8 2014, 07:14 PM)
I usually don't use any additives and unless there is a specific needs for them or a technical reason behind them. For now the only thing I plan on using is concentrated spray intake cleaner for my BMW and only because it is a GDI engine. I agree with BSL's assessment that the EO is already formulated for to meet its product target.

As for the Evo X I've bought some intake cleaner for it as the EGR and PCV system would have slightly dirtied the turbocharger and intake manifolds after 70000km so I thought why the hell not. Also got a can of LiquiMoly Detox, the industrial strength and more potent version of the standard 300ml LiquiMoly Engine Flush.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Probably just mineral turps but it's concentrated and comes in a huge 500ml bottle, so I figured "why not?" laugh.gif
*
oo never came across with that... do feedback after you've tried it tongue.gif
although, since your bmw is fairly new, i suppose you wont be using it any time soon?

btw that table yours? interesting looking shells - hunting or shooting range?
empire23
post Aug 8 2014, 07:33 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 8 2014, 07:22 PM)
oo never came across with that... do feedback after you've tried it tongue.gif
although, since your bmw is fairly new, i suppose you wont be using it any time soon?

btw that table yours? interesting looking shells - hunting or shooting range?
*
Don't think I'll be using it on the BMW soon. Just the Evo X and maybe the R34 once I undo the damaged those car thieves did to it before the police recovered it. Going to change the tyres as well on the X to Goodyear Eagle F1 Directionals. No need anything really sticky, the car has been relegated to supermarket duties.

Yeah the table is mine. Loading my magazines as I have a shooting competition on Sunday.
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post Aug 8 2014, 07:36 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 8 2014, 07:33 PM)
Don't think I'll be using it on the BMW soon. Just the Evo X and maybe the R34 once I undo the damaged those car thieves did to it before the police recovered it. Going to change the tyres as well on the X to Goodyear Eagle F1 Directionals. No need anything really sticky, the car has been relegated to supermarket duties.

Yeah the table is mine. Loading my magazines as I have a shooting competition on Sunday.
*
eh you've mentioned the recovery of the R34 very long time ago (over a year already or not?) still working on the repairs?
and rofl Evo X for supermarket duties laugh.gif

notworthy.gif on those bullets.
good luck on your competition thumbup.gif
empire23
post Aug 8 2014, 07:44 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 8 2014, 07:36 PM)
eh you've mentioned the recovery of the R34 very long time ago (over a year already or not?) still working on the repairs?
and rofl Evo X for supermarket duties laugh.gif

notworthy.gif on those bullets.
good luck on your competition  thumbup.gif
*
Yeah. Still working on the repairs because the car is quite low on my priority list and is now sitting in storage. I am worried about the wear and what oils I should use. I might just buy an engine crane and rebuild it by hand. Engine building is surprisingly simple when I leaned it working at my previous job.

Fastest supermarket car ever! Danish made Intrax Suspension with SuperPro bushes, DBA 5k rotors, Full Race manifold, Tomei exhaust, Cosworth IC and Intake kit and larger MHI Turbo.

Worst of all is my parents plan to stay here for a year. I plan to just give them the X because it is the only "auto" I have tongue.gif
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post Aug 8 2014, 07:54 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 8 2014, 07:44 PM)
Yeah. Still working on the repairs because the car is quite low on my priority list and is now sitting in storage. I am worried about the wear and what oils I should use. I might just buy an engine crane and rebuild it by hand. Engine building is surprisingly simple when I leaned it working at my previous job.

Fastest supermarket car ever! Danish made Intrax Suspension with SuperPro bushes, DBA 5k rotors, Full Race manifold, Tomei exhaust, Cosworth IC and Intake kit and larger MHI Turbo.

Worst of all is my parents plan to stay here for a year. I plan to just give them the X because it is the only "auto" I have tongue.gif
*
do update/new thread on your engine rebuilding if it ever happens biggrin.gif

and words cannot describe all my jelly notworthy.gif
Klemann C
post Aug 10 2014, 02:24 AM

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In dilemma whether should try 5w-50 since my car current EO is due...using 0w-40

Is it advisable switch from 0w-40 > 5w-50?
Both are Mobil oil..

This post has been edited by Klemann C: Aug 10 2014, 02:27 AM
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 10 2014, 02:34 AM

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QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:24 AM)
In dilemma whether should try 5w-50 since my car current EO is due...using 0w-40

Is it advisable switch from 0w-40 > 5w-50?
Both are Mobil oil..
*
What's your dilemma?
Klemann C
post Aug 10 2014, 02:46 AM

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All the while been using 10w40, 0w40 since I'd got my car.
Engine feedback respond is quite positive since my car engine is 4G93..as you know this engine valve lifter prone to noisy & loud due to different EO grade used.
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 10 2014, 05:36 AM

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QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:46 AM)
All the while been using 10w40, 0w40 since I'd got my car.
Engine feedback respond is quite positive since my car engine is 4G93..as you know this engine valve lifter prone to noisy & loud due to different EO grade used.
*
so you got too much performance/good FC and want to lower that by going for thicker EO?
efaceninja
post Aug 10 2014, 08:53 AM

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QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:24 AM)
In dilemma whether should try 5w-50 since my car current EO is due...using 0w-40

Is it advisable switch from 0w-40 > 5w-50?
Both are Mobil oil..
*
QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:46 AM)
All the while been using 10w40, 0w40 since I'd got my car.
Engine feedback respond is quite positive since my car engine is 4G93..as you know this engine valve lifter prone to noisy & loud due to different EO grade used.
*
why you want to change to xw-50 oil? is it because want extra protection? or.. you expect that it will give quieter noise? or.. the foreman keep asking you to take xw-50?
ZeroSP
post Aug 10 2014, 11:18 AM

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So a TBN of 7.8 is low? But too many factors to consider as I read through all those technicals.
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post Aug 10 2014, 02:38 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 10 2014, 05:36 AM)
so you got too much performance/good FC and want to lower that by going for thicker EO?
*
My usual workshop mechanic reckon should try w-50 for better
top end & can reduced lifter noise..not sure about fc part might be worsen or better...

QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 10 2014, 08:53 AM)
why you want to change to xw-50 oil? is it because want extra protection? or.. you expect that it will give quieter noise? or.. the foreman keep asking you to take xw-50?
*
Heard some owner of 4G93, engine will get better top end power band & lifter noise reduced also..

Btw, I saw tesco offered RM139 for Mobil1 5w-50..tempting get 1 biggrin.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 10 2014, 07:26 PM

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QUOTE(ZeroSP @ Aug 10 2014, 11:18 AM)
So a TBN of 7.8 is low? But too many factors to consider as I read through all those technicals.
*
well API SN specified within 6.1-8
so 7.8 is just right.

also depends on how you drive as well and what OCI you're practicing.

QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:38 PM)
My usual workshop mechanic reckon should try w-50 for better
top end & can reduced lifter noise..not sure about fc part might be worsen or better...
*
try different brand/model of lubes, not thicker viscosity.
izso
post Aug 11 2014, 11:20 AM

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QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:46 AM)
All the while been using 10w40, 0w40 since I'd got my car.
Engine feedback respond is quite positive since my car engine is 4G93..as you know this engine valve lifter prone to noisy & loud due to different EO grade used.
*
Try Penrite 5W40 HPR or their premium range. Confirm will reduce lifter noise. Don't know how it does it.
WinterAngeLs
post Aug 11 2014, 03:22 PM

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Thanks for the interesting info thumbup.gif

Btw, i came across these 2 today.
user posted image
user posted image

Seems cheap. whats the normal price btw?
Any owners have any feedback using them on a 4B11 and 1NZ-FE? which is the better of the 2?
phobian
post Aug 11 2014, 09:37 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 7 2014, 01:02 PM)
I've got 4 cans of 300V on the way to service my Evo and a bottle of Penrite 10Tenths for flush with Liquimoly flushing fluid. Only because I've neglected to service the car for a bit due to being onsite and my housemates driving it around for a bit.

Also doing the 1500km break in service for my BMW. But this time with strong fluid that resists crankcase dilution because the N54 and N55 are very famous engines for utterly destroying even the toughest engine oils due to the ultra high pressure direct injection it uses. This might be a tough one to figure out.
*
300v 15w50 for your 4B11T?

For a good 60k kms, I was happy with TorqNM's VM155 15w50 until my friend decided to close his business. Currently running on Synergie 6100 15w50 and not really happy with it.
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 11 2014, 10:34 PM

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QUOTE(WinterAngeLs @ Aug 11 2014, 03:22 PM)
Thanks for the interesting info  thumbup.gif

Btw, i came across these 2 today.

Seems cheap. whats the normal price btw?
Any owners have any feedback using them on a 4B11 and 1NZ-FE? which is the better of the 2?
*
no comments on the 1NZ-FE engine as i'm not worthy.
for 4B1x, i'd prefer to go xw20 strictly.

however if you're ok on xw40, consider this instead thanks to nzh0920
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69341868

ori price is rm230-240ish.

That's the last natural gas pureplus base stock collaborated with Pennzoil.
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 11 2014, 10:35 PM

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QUOTE(phobian @ Aug 11 2014, 09:37 PM)
300v 15w50 for your 4B11T?

For a good 60k kms, I was happy with TorqNM's VM155 15w50 until my friend decided to close his business. Currently running on Synergie 6100 15w50 and not really happy with it.
*
he ran with xw20 on regular roads and xw30 for hard tracking usage iinm
Klemann C
post Aug 11 2014, 11:19 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 10 2014, 07:26 PM)
try different brand/model of lubes, not thicker viscosity.
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How about 30 viscosity? Thinner & lighter?

QUOTE(izso @ Aug 11 2014, 11:20 AM)
Try Penrite 5W40 HPR or their premium range. Confirm will reduce lifter noise. Don't know how it does it.
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Thanks for suggesting bro 😊
managed bought Mitsubishi Fully Syn 5w-40 from Aeon today RM119 costed slightly more than those forumer selling here..

This post has been edited by Klemann C: Aug 11 2014, 11:21 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 11 2014, 11:21 PM

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QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 11 2014, 11:19 PM)
How about 30 viscosity? Thinner & lighter?
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assuming the original specification was xw40, sure why not.

although even 4g15 was ORIGINALLY specified to be xw30 from Mitsubishi Service manual i dug up some time ago. Proton called xw50 laugh.gif
considering you mentioned Mitsubishi engine... who knows eh lol
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post Aug 12 2014, 05:06 AM

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xw-20, I wanna try it long ago for its lighter properties. Just don't know which one therefore have been using 5W-40 all the way. For K20Z2 by the way.
empire23
post Aug 12 2014, 06:46 AM

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QUOTE(phobian @ Aug 11 2014, 09:37 PM)
300v 15w50 for your 4B11T?

For a good 60k kms, I was happy with TorqNM's VM155 15w50 until my friend decided to close his business. Currently running on Synergie 6100 15w50 and not really happy with it.
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That's 20 weight higher than what Mitsubishi recommends. Unless you're driving Le Mans 24hrs or some form of endurance racing with elevated temperatures with a requirement to maintain very stable oil pressures, that's too heavy and you'll never get the temps high enough for the oil to pass through the squirters and journals at the right rate.

Essentially if you don't drive it hard enough, an oil at that weight will wear your engine faster. Also being a MPFI engine, you won't have problems with dilution, which means your oil weight more or less stays the same. 15W is quite thick upon start up and thus unless there a strong ester or metal "clingy" additive, you will experience more wear upon start up as Mitsubishi recommends a maximum of 5W all year round for summer conditions with 0w for winter.
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post Aug 12 2014, 11:18 AM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 06:46 AM)
That's 20 weight higher than what Mitsubishi recommends. Unless you're driving Le Mans 24hrs or some form of endurance racing with elevated temperatures with a requirement to maintain very stable oil pressures, that's too heavy and you'll never get the temps high enough for the oil to pass through the squirters and journals at the right rate.

Essentially if you don't drive it hard enough, an oil at that weight will wear your engine faster. Also being a MPFI engine, you won't have problems with dilution, which means your oil weight more or less stays the same.  15W is quite thick upon start up and thus unless there a strong ester or metal "clingy" additive, you will experience more wear upon start up as Mitsubishi recommends a maximum of 5W all year round for summer conditions with 0w for winter.
*
and there you have it!

ps: AFAIK proton recommends 10w40 for the inspira so... rolleyes.gif
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post Aug 12 2014, 11:54 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 12 2014, 11:18 AM)
and there you have it!

ps: AFAIK proton recommends 10w40 for the inspira so... rolleyes.gif
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That's within the range of Mistubishi's recommendation but 10W is as thick as you'd go upon startup if you want acceptable engine wear. That's I usually don't go any higher than 5W. 40 weight is quite heavy but still within the 10+- rule of thumb I use.

But going 50 is outside that rule and thus the oil would have a seriously hard time squeezing past those journals and tiny oil passages.

Anyways ordering 8 litres of Motul DCTF now. Nearly 200 dollars or 600 ringgit. Need to service the Getrag DCT in the car as well. Filter oso mahal.
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post Aug 12 2014, 11:59 AM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 11:54 AM)
That's within the range of Mistubishi's recommendation but 10W is as thick as you'd go upon startup if you want acceptable engine wear. That's I usually don't go any higher than 5W. 40 weight is quite heavy but still within the 10+- rule of thumb I use.

But going 50 is outside that rule and thus the oil would have a seriously hard time squeezing past those journals and tiny oil passages.

Anyways ordering 8 litres of Motul DCTF now. Nearly 200 dollars or 600 ringgit. Need to service the Getrag DCT in the car as well. Filter oso mahal.
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4B11T maybe, 4B10/4B11 recommended is 0w20 and it's +20 heavier.
it's a NA econ box afterall wink.gif

hmm 8 liters for rm600 (75/l, somemore things at Australia seems a lot more expensive in comparison) doesn't seem all too bad.
i'm paying like rm50/liter for Motul's ATF 1A
seem like the way to go if i'm letting go of lubegard platinum additive. That, and my favorite Caltex ATF-J price hike doh.gif (maybe i spread the word too much on LYN and caltex got wind of it, like Techron concentrated additive)
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post Aug 12 2014, 12:13 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 12 2014, 11:59 AM)
4B11T maybe, 4B10/4B11 recommended is 0w20 and it's +20 heavier.
it's a NA econ box afterall wink.gif

hmm 8 liters for rm600 (75/l, somemore things at Australia seems a lot more expensive in comparison) doesn't seem all too bad.
i'm paying like rm50/liter for Motul's ATF 1A
seem like the way to go if i'm letting go of lubegard platinum additive. That, and my favorite Caltex ATF-J price hike doh.gif (maybe i spread the word too much on LYN and caltex got wind of it, like Techron concentrated additive)
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I think that's the new recommendation but it isn't due to a technical concern, it is because Mitsubishi had to satisfy the CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) for most of its cars sold and a lighter oil helps it do that. Proton doesn't need to satisfy CAFE laws in the US.

The Evos don't have a renewed recommendation because CAFE is sales weighted. Meaning the cars that sell the most are the most affected.

Thus I'd try both 0W-30 and 0W-20 and get UOA analysis done on them to determine which is best for what. As you have no turbo to contend with, but your clearances might be more/less due to many factors as the 4B11T uses Mahle's forged hypereutectic pistons in a 2618 alloy. But being within the range you can't go wrong.

I usually buy all my DCT lube from the US or Europe. Too mahal here. Motul DCTF is nearly double that price I buy local. If I buy Mitsubishi DiaQueen SSTF-1 (rebranded Castrol Transmax Dual), it is 500 dollars for 8 litres from Mitsubishi.
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post Aug 12 2014, 12:19 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 12:13 PM)
I think that's the new recommendation but it isn't due to a technical concern, it is because Mitsubishi had to satisfy the CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) for most of its cars sold and a lighter oil helps it do that. Proton doesn't need to satisfy CAFE laws in the US.

The Evos don't have a renewed recommendation because CAFE is sales weighted. Meaning the cars that sell the most are the most affected.

Thus I'd try both 0W-30 and 0W-20 and get UOA analysis done on them to determine which is best for what. As you have no turbo to contend with, but your clearances might be more/less due to many factors as the 4B11T uses Mahle's forged hypereutectic pistons in a 2618 alloy. But being within the range you can't go wrong.

I usually buy all my DCT lube from the US or Europe. Too mahal here. Motul DCTF is nearly double that price I buy local. If I buy Mitsubishi DiaQueen SSTF-1 (rebranded Castrol Transmax Dual), it is 500 dollars for 8 litres from Mitsubishi.
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aye that's pretty much my reasoning on sticking with the lightest viscosity within Mitsubishi's range.

My UOA did show a bit high wear despite the additives, but hey who knows if they are the ones causing trouble instead? lol
then again the lab guys weren't concern about the wear i'm experience due to the engine being very new and i do trash it very hard.

btw once i can confirm on some figures i'll post my latest dyno...
it's as you said, the ecu seriously did richen itself insanely despite the richest value on the remapped is 12.8 AFR
OBD already shows commanded AFR being 11.5-12 so it definitely due air filter stuck or air starvation... i actually double checked the drop in box to confirm there's no dead rat sitting in there rclxub.gif

ah that pricing is not from AUD? then yea it is rather pricey, though being in the limited DCT market, i guess it cant be helped sad.gif
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post Aug 12 2014, 03:51 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 12:13 PM)
I usually buy all my DCT lube from the US or Europe. Too mahal here. Motul DCTF is nearly double that price I buy local. If I buy Mitsubishi DiaQueen SSTF-1 (rebranded Castrol Transmax Dual), it is 500 dollars for 8 litres from Mitsubishi.
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[email protected]&R Autocare Glenmarie carries Motul DCTF. Cant recall the exact price, but was told its lesser than RM100 if I recall correctly. If my 20L pack of HKS cannot reach in time, its either Motul DCTF or Millers.

Well noted and thanks for the heads up on Mitsubishi's recommended grade of engine oil.
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post Aug 12 2014, 04:09 PM

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QUOTE(phobian @ Aug 12 2014, 03:51 PM)
[email protected]&R Autocare Glenmarie carries Motul DCTF. Cant recall the exact price, but was told its lesser than RM100 if I recall correctly. If my 20L pack of HKS cannot reach in time, its either Motul DCTF or Millers.

Well noted and thanks for the heads up on Mitsubishi's recommended grade of engine oil.
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btw glad you happen to stumble across this thread also, hopefully i get to see you in action personally during Sepang thumbup.gif
bro empire23 is in Australia i believe and his Evo X is now a supermarket car unsure.gif

do give it a go with lower viscosities; You've been missing out a LOT on your 4B11T man wink.gif
heck i'm a lowly 4B10 and i've been really happy on it's rev happy nature with 0w20 EO's since day 1 wink.gif
empire23
post Aug 12 2014, 06:33 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 12 2014, 12:19 PM)
aye that's pretty much my reasoning on sticking with the lightest viscosity within Mitsubishi's range.

My UOA did show a bit high wear despite the additives, but hey who knows if they are the ones causing trouble instead? lol
then again the lab guys weren't concern about the wear i'm experience due to the engine being very new and i do trash it very hard.

btw once i can confirm on some figures i'll post my latest dyno...
it's as you said, the ecu seriously did richen itself insanely despite the richest value on the remapped is 12.8 AFR
OBD already shows commanded AFR being 11.5-12 so it definitely due air filter stuck or air starvation... i actually double checked the drop in box to confirm there's no dead rat sitting in there  rclxub.gif

ah that pricing is not from AUD? then yea it is rather pricey, though being in the limited DCT market, i guess it cant be helped sad.gif
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You'll have high wear for your first UOA and it progressively gets lower as everything fits in. As for your tuning I'd suggest sitting down with a WBO2 sensor and tuning up everything after a few pulls.

If you're going rich, I'd check the knock value and see if it is the ECU compensating for knock. Also check your ignition time. I believe that investing in a Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 cable for logging while you do your WOT pulls might be a wise investment.

QUOTE(phobian @ Aug 12 2014, 03:51 PM)
[email protected]&R Autocare Glenmarie carries Motul DCTF. Cant recall the exact price, but was told its lesser than RM100 if I recall correctly. If my 20L pack of HKS cannot reach in time, its either Motul DCTF or Millers.

Well noted and thanks for the heads up on Mitsubishi's recommended grade of engine oil.
*
Motul DCTF is about 25 dollars a bottle over the internet, I'll buy it and it'll probably be here once I get back from site. Hopefully. The filter isn't too hard to find as there's an equivalent Ford part number for it.

I just cleaned the Evo today and wiped all the leather down with cleaner and conditioner, Kyrtoxed all the rubber seals and essentially left it in top condition. If I come back in 3 weeks and the car is dirty, somebody's gonna get hurt real bad.
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post Aug 12 2014, 06:46 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 06:33 PM)
You'll have high wear for your first UOA and it progressively gets lower as everything fits in. As for your tuning I'd suggest sitting down with a WBO2 sensor and tuning up everything after a few pulls.

If you're going rich, I'd check the knock value and see if it is the ECU compensating for knock. Also check your ignition time. I believe that investing in a Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 cable for logging while you do your WOT pulls might be a wise investment.

I just cleaned the Evo today and wiped all the leather down with cleaner and conditioner, Kyrtoxed all the rubber seals and essentially left it in top condition. If I come back in 3 weeks and the car is dirty, somebody's gonna get hurt real bad.
*
definitely will need to save up for the tuning equipments... everything don't come cheap and at the end of the day one would wonder if it's even worth it for a puny 100hp 4B10 lol...
I'm actually thinking of something like a scooby for my next car, but that's something to be explored maybe 7 years later or if i strike lottery or something since i just started out with my new car laugh.gif

btw, the ECU also compensate knocking not only via ignition but AFR as well? damn that could explain the commanded AFR values despite the mapping specified 12.8 to be the lowest value.
i do know that the ignition advance did not went as high as i had on that previous screenshot i @ ping'd you that other day

much thanks for the info bro, that definitely help solved a few mysteries.
maybe next dyno i'll go drug up the car to prevent knock rolleyes.gif
though, i either wasn't sensitive on the knocking, or the knock sensors/compensation was done so perfectly it totally slipped past me laugh.gif

btw prepping the supermarket car for the parents? lol
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post Aug 12 2014, 07:40 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 12 2014, 06:46 PM)
definitely will need to save up for the tuning equipments... everything don't come cheap and at the end of the day one would wonder if it's even worth it for a puny 100hp 4B10 lol...
I'm actually thinking of something like a scooby for my next car, but that's something to be explored maybe 7 years later or if i strike lottery or something since i just started out with my new car laugh.gif

btw, the ECU also compensate knocking not only via ignition but AFR as well? damn that could explain the commanded AFR values despite the mapping specified 12.8 to be the lowest value.
i do know that the ignition advance did not went as high as i had on that previous screenshot i @ ping'd you that other day

much thanks for the info bro, that definitely help solved a few mysteries.
maybe next dyno i'll go drug up the car to prevent knock  rolleyes.gif
though, i either wasn't sensitive on the knocking, or the knock sensors/compensation was done so perfectly it totally slipped past me laugh.gif

btw prepping the supermarket car for the parents? lol
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Well the Tactrix OpenPort can be used with a lot of vehicles. Subaru included and so can the WBO2 sensor.

As for the ECU compensating, well, it's an unknown quantity at this moment as you're only editing stuff via the CANbus, the logic is still up to the ECU itself and that's the hard bit. Just like how the Evo X switches between 3 maps, nobody knows how the interpolation on map selection is done by the ECU, we just try our best to mod around it.

Best you can do is log things and see how it affects other variables. And of course take what I say with a grain of salt, I'm no expert on Mitsubishi ECUs or any car based ECUs for that matter. Although if you need help with GM DELPHI, E-Controls and other industrial ECUs, I can help laugh.gif

My parents say they want to come in December. I oso say ok lah, but I wanted to clean the car up before I serviced everything. One of those syiok sendiri things. Diff, transfer case, engine, power steering, brake and gearbox oils all changes with a fresh set of plugs and with a very shiny car. Feels good mang.

This post has been edited by empire23: Aug 12 2014, 07:42 PM
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post Aug 12 2014, 07:51 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 07:40 PM)
Well the Tactrix OpenPort can be used with a lot of vehicles. Subaru included and so can the WBO2 sensor.

As for the ECU compensating, well, it's an unknown quantity at this moment as you're only editing stuff via the CANbus, the logic is still up to the ECU itself and that's the hard bit. Just like how the Evo X switches between 3 maps, nobody knows how the interpolation on map selection is done by the ECU, we just try our best to mod around it. 

Best you can do is log things and see how it affects other variables. And of course take what I say with a grain of salt, I'm no expert on Mitsubishi ECUs or any car based ECUs for that matter. Although if you need help with GM DELPHI, E-Controls and other industrial ECUs, I can help laugh.gif

My parents say they want to come in December. I oso say ok lah, but I wanted to clean the car up before I serviced everything. One of those syiok sendiri things. Diff, transfer case, engine, power steering, brake and gearbox oils all changes with a fresh set of plugs and with a very shiny car. Feels good mang.
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if anything i know there 2 separate MIVEC timings just for hot/cold coolant temperatures, god knows how many other variables are there (eg: the 3 maps you mentioned)

your information has definitely helped me understand a lot of things in the past/now so definitely appreciate them thumbup.gif

and yes, that's what most car guys do, no? *coughdetailingthreadcough*
efaceninja
post Aug 26 2014, 07:59 PM

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anyone used any radiator coolant flush product before?
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 27 2014, 03:50 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 26 2014, 07:59 PM)
anyone used any radiator coolant flush product before?
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used this from Eneos:
user posted image

but as i google i found :
http://www.prop65daily.com/Litigation/Peop...ncorporated.pdf

probably why they seem to be so hard to google these days, company closed? lol

anyways if your car is still new, just replace the coolant more frequently if you don't want risk that may come from coolant flushes.
efaceninja
post Aug 27 2014, 08:58 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 27 2014, 03:50 AM)
used this from Eneos:
user posted image

but as i google i found :
http://www.prop65daily.com/Litigation/Peop...ncorporated.pdf

probably why they seem to be so hard to google these days, company closed? lol

anyways if your car is still new, just replace the coolant more frequently if you don't want risk that may come from coolant flushes.
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the car i intended to use on is old car, the coolant so far i believe has been using RM 6 coolant off the shelve of supermarket. not sure how frequent it changed. and i think there was a period it was filled with plain pipe water only.. tongue.gif well, back then i was not knowledgeable as now.. rclxub.gif now i plan to replace it with those long life one from shell. so before that, was thinking of giving it a flush first.

hmmm, what risk here you referring to? you mean it may harden the seals or dislodge a clogged hole (make the hole reappear and leak)??

also, i've discovered that radiator flush coolant product are a lot more rare than engine oil flush.
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post Aug 27 2014, 09:21 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 27 2014, 08:58 AM)
the car i intended to use on is old car, the coolant so far i believe has been using RM 6 coolant off the shelve of supermarket.  not sure how frequent it changed.  and i think there was a period it was filled with plain pipe water only.. tongue.gif  well, back then i was not knowledgeable as now.. rclxub.gif  now i plan to replace it with those long life one from shell.  so before that, was thinking of giving it a flush first.

hmmm, what risk here you referring to? you mean it may harden the seals or dislodge a clogged hole (make the hole reappear and leak)??

also, i've discovered that radiator flush coolant product are a lot more rare than engine oil flush.
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ya pretty much what you've mentioned on the risk.

it's a given actually, radiators are a whole lot cheaper to replace. maybe 300-600 for the average radiators?
an engine is in the thousand, so products tend to focus more on the engine where else radiators? spoil/leak/corrode/clogged etc just get new? lol.

of course you could just replace coolant more frequently, use distilled water only and so on and they'd probably last many long years until you need to deal with clogging/corrosion] and even then replacing one still probably wouldn't be a killer.
efaceninja
post Aug 30 2014, 09:54 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 27 2014, 03:50 AM)
used this from Eneos:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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lols saw your blue cloral radiator flush at one of the Acehardware store. and many others brand.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

zionanubis
post Sep 2 2014, 01:54 PM

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using this oil for my weekend car.

mobil 1 5W-30 EP

user posted image


my car, Civic FD1 (R18A) engine.

feel little different with honda OEM oil ( honda service package 5w-30 eco friendly oil )

is it really can push up till 1 year, only oil exchange ?

i'm weekday driving, 1 month maximum run about 450~500KM

500KM X 12mth= 6000 ++ km for a year.

icon_question.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 2 2014, 03:06 PM

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QUOTE(zionanubis @ Sep 2 2014, 01:54 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


500KM X 12mth= 6000 ++ km for a year.
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if worry, change the oil filter on the 6 month and top up accordingly.
check the engine oil condition/level via dipstick every month
711726
post Sep 2 2014, 10:33 PM

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QUOTE(zionanubis @ Sep 2 2014, 01:54 PM)
using this oil for my weekend car.

mobil 1 5W-30 EP

user posted image
my car, Civic FD1 (R18A) engine.

feel little different with honda OEM oil ( honda service package 5w-30 eco friendly oil )

is it really can push up till 1 year, only oil exchange ?

i'm weekday driving, 1 month maximum run about 450~500KM

500KM X 12mth= 6000 ++ km for a year.

icon_question.gif
*
Can feel immediate punchy feel right? brows.gif Bought it on offer on Ramadhan ~RM140, used it on my mum's saga LMST, can tarik kaw2 thumbup.gif
empire23
post Sep 3 2014, 04:40 PM

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Reorganized my oils and everything into a proper shelf in the corner of my room.

user posted image
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 3 2014, 04:43 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Sep 3 2014, 04:40 PM)
Reorganized my oils and everything into a proper shelf in the corner of my room.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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notworthy.gif notworthy.gif notworthy.gif
those metal can 300v packaging look damn nice lol

our plastic bottles looks kinda plain sweat.gif

=edit=
high5 on megs/turtle wax tongue.gif

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Sep 3 2014, 04:43 PM
empire23
post Sep 3 2014, 04:51 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 3 2014, 04:43 PM)
notworthy.gif  notworthy.gif  notworthy.gif
those metal can 300v packaging look damn nice lol

our plastic bottles looks kinda plain sweat.gif

=edit=
high5 on megs/turtle wax tongue.gif
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I think the plastic bottles are the older Double Ester technology, I used to get those. The new stuff that comes in a can is called EsterCore.

Most fluids I hantam and use as required, then restock, the only thing I skimp on is the Castrol SRF Racing. 340 ringgit for 1L bottle. When feeling cheap I use Penrite SIN, Motul RBF660 or ATE Super Blue.

I don't detail the car much these days. I'm not home very often.
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post Sep 3 2014, 05:14 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Sep 3 2014, 04:51 PM)
I think the plastic bottles are the older Double Ester technology, I used to get those. The new stuff that comes in a can is called EsterCore.

Most fluids I hantam and use as required, then restock, the only thing I skimp on is the Castrol SRF Racing. 340 ringgit for 1L bottle.  When feeling cheap I use Penrite SIN, Motul RBF660 or ATE Super Blue.

I don't detail the car much these days. I'm not home very often.
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neh ester core:
https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/3pv5ZxGdhUX
from motul's site they still run both metal/plastic packaging
my ester core 300v are year 2013 production batch (assuming the date looking formatted numbers are the production dates) and since 300v stocks for Malaysia runs damn slow (i'd assume), year 2013 batches are still circulating around lol

Hmm i've been recommended on ATE brake fluids, how are they btw?
not too interested in the super blue racing fluids, just their ultra low viscosity SL.6 intrigues me:
http://www.ate-na.com/www/ate_us_en/themes.../bf_sl6_us.html

it being DOT4 and still able to have better temperatures/viscosity rating and yet still being cheaper than motul DOT 5.1 i've just recently purchased to bleed my brakes for this upcoming Sepang...
haven't come across them locally though, so still looking around the internet/options.

well my detailing products are just sitting there for the most part... i mean the last time i washed my new car (or any car for that matter lol) was months ago sweat.gif
efaceninja
post Sep 4 2014, 09:05 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 3 2014, 05:14 PM)
well my detailing products are just sitting there for the most part... i mean the last time i washed my new car (or any car for that matter lol) was months ago sweat.gif
*
in kitchen too? cool2.gif whistling.gif whistling.gif whistling.gif
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post Sep 4 2014, 11:14 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Sep 4 2014, 09:05 AM)
in kitchen too? cool2.gif  whistling.gif  whistling.gif  whistling.gif
*
And living room lol
empire23
post Sep 5 2014, 08:53 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 3 2014, 05:14 PM)
Hmm i've been recommended on ATE brake fluids, how are they btw?
not too interested in the super blue racing fluids, just their ultra low viscosity SL.6 intrigues me:
http://www.ate-na.com/www/ate_us_en/themes.../bf_sl6_us.html

it being DOT4 and still able to have better temperatures/viscosity rating and yet still being cheaper than motul DOT 5.1 i've just recently purchased to bleed my brakes for this upcoming Sepang...
haven't come across them locally though, so still looking around the internet/options.

well my detailing products are just sitting there for the most part... i mean the last time i washed my new car (or any car for that matter lol) was months ago sweat.gif
*
ATE's SuperBlue and Type 200 are pretty good. The SL6 is ATE's offering for high performance driving but I've never used it before as Superblue isn't that much more expensive. Have used Superblue on the Evo X previously but preferred the pedal feel from Castrol's React SRF. Otherwise they're pretty damned close.

Yeah I hardly detail these days, just an autowash and a vacuuming when I get back and before I leave for site. Just serviced the Evo today, she feels good to drive and the engine runs as it should with the 300V 5W-30, flushed it with LiquiMoly Engine Flush as well but might use a light weight flushing oil the next time around.

This post has been edited by empire23: Sep 5 2014, 08:54 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 6 2014, 04:24 AM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Sep 5 2014, 08:53 PM)
ATE's SuperBlue and Type 200 are pretty good. The SL6 is ATE's offering for high performance driving but I've never used it before as Superblue isn't that much more expensive. Have used Superblue on the Evo X previously but preferred the pedal feel from Castrol's React SRF. Otherwise they're pretty damned close.

Yeah I hardly detail these days, just an autowash and a vacuuming when I get back and before I leave for site. Just serviced the Evo today, she feels good to drive and the engine runs as it should with the 300V 5W-30, flushed it with LiquiMoly Engine Flush as well but might use a light weight flushing oil the next time around.
*
hmm in regards to pedal feel, would it's viscosity property be it's major contribution?

assuming so, would you prefer thinner or thicker viscosity?
i have a personal preference for lighter viscosity in almost everything, and in regards to brakes, the braking feels so much sharper. Not to mention more precise clutch controlling as the brake/clutch shares from the same reservoir/fluids.

will definiftely check out castrol, they should be easier to get around here i'd reckon?
i had a choice for motul's RBF and DOT5.1, the pricing was as you said (for the ATE anyways) damn similar, only opted the DOT5.1 in the end because of the much lighter viscosity especially on cold starts slow/half clutching.

btw any reasoning on avoiding engine flush and opting for light weight flushing oil? which sort of flushing oil would you be referring to? most hdeo seems very thick in viscosity from the top of my head.
zionanubis
post Sep 7 2014, 01:33 PM

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[quote=711726,Sep 2 2014, 10:33 PM]
Can feel immediate punchy feel right? brows.gif Bought it on offer on Ramadhan ~RM140, used it on my mum's saga LMST, can tarik kaw2 thumbup.gif
*

[/quote

wow RM140, where u get it ?

dont mind pm the that seller? smile.gif


so your saga LMST, 4G13 or 4G15?

noting happend with 5w-30? sure powerful + smooth ~

thumbup.gif

empire23
post Sep 7 2014, 04:59 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 6 2014, 04:24 AM)
hmm in regards to pedal feel, would it's viscosity property be it's major contribution?

assuming so, would you prefer thinner or thicker viscosity?
i have a personal preference for lighter viscosity in almost everything, and in regards to brakes, the braking feels so much sharper. Not to mention more precise clutch controlling as the brake/clutch shares from the same reservoir/fluids.

will definiftely check out castrol, they should be easier to get around here i'd reckon?
i had a choice for motul's RBF and DOT5.1, the pricing was as you said (for the ATE anyways) damn similar, only opted the DOT5.1 in the end because of the much lighter viscosity especially on cold starts slow/half clutching.

btw any reasoning on avoiding engine flush and opting for light weight flushing oil? which sort of flushing oil would you be referring to? most hdeo seems very thick in viscosity from the top of my head.
*
Personally I feel that the majority contribution to pedal feel is compressibility, viscosity is less important. What I look for ultimately are the wet and dry boiling points, wet being the most important as it determines the stability of the fluid in the long term and its ability to function when subjected to real world conditions. I'm not worried about cold starting temps because it primarily acts as a hydraulic fluid.

ATE's fluids tend to last 1 or 2 track days due to their formula being less able to reject the effects of moisture but it is well known that Castrol's SRF Racing will only need 1 or 2 changes per season. Also the wet boiling point is about 100 degrees higher.

My logic behind my preference for a flushing oil (my definition is : Oil used as an intermediary to flush rather than a purpose made flushing oil) is simply because if I'm going to put new expensive engine oil in, it is probably better for it to go into a cleaned engine, free from any old leftovers. So I'll probably use some cheap oil and filter, give it a hard drive and then service it quickly with the much more expensive 300V and high perf filter.


711726
post Sep 7 2014, 11:56 PM

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[quote=zionanubis,Sep 7 2014, 01:33 PM]
[quote=711726,Sep 2 2014, 10:33 PM]
Can feel immediate punchy feel right? brows.gif Bought it on offer on Ramadhan ~RM140, used it on my mum's saga LMST, can tarik kaw2 thumbup.gif
*

[/quote

wow RM140, where u get it ?

dont mind pm the that seller? smile.gif
so your saga LMST, 4G13 or 4G15?

noting happend with 5w-30? sure powerful + smooth ~

thumbup.gif
*

[/quote]

Bought it at Tesco Seremban on sale haha. My mum's LMST has the 4G13 engine. Planning to pour the same oil into my wife's Myvi. Tried eneos semi syn 5w30 and petrocanada semi syn 5w30 as well, but the eneos was better. Can't wait to see what will the mobil 1 does to the myvi's engine rclxm9.gif

This post has been edited by 711726: Sep 7 2014, 11:57 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 8 2014, 01:03 AM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Sep 7 2014, 04:59 PM)
Personally I feel that the majority contribution to pedal feel is compressibility, viscosity is less important. What I look for ultimately are the wet and dry boiling points, wet being the most important as it determines the stability of the fluid in the long term and its ability to function when subjected to real world conditions. I'm not worried about cold starting temps because it primarily acts as a hydraulic fluid.

ATE's fluids tend to last 1 or 2 track days due to their formula being less able to reject the effects of moisture but it is well known that Castrol's SRF Racing will only need 1 or 2 changes per season. Also the wet boiling point is about 100 degrees higher.

My logic behind my preference for a flushing oil (my definition is : Oil used as an intermediary to flush rather than a purpose made flushing oil) is simply because if I'm going to put new expensive engine oil in, it is probably better for it to go into a cleaned engine, free from any old leftovers. So I'll probably use some cheap oil and filter, give it a hard drive and then service it quickly with the much more expensive 300V and high perf filter.
*
i see, so overall it would be a deal of trial and error i guess? (what fluid provides what sort of compress-ability/pedal feel)
my experience from switching over to the 5.1 (not even a full drain, merely bled the brakes and top up with the 5.1) is that the clutch feel during cold starts are very precise and doesn't "lag". as i lift of the clutch gradually the engagement is very precise compared to previous, either the car barely moves and if i lift off more i'd over do it and the horrible "manual transmission jerks " will surface as the rpm dipped too low.

SRF = http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPD...RF%20Racing.pdf ?
the viscosity on both cold/100c is almost double against bosch/motul's 5.1 fluids laugh.gif
QUOTE
Compressibility: The compressibility of Castrol React SRF Racing is very similar to that
of current DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. It can therefore be filled into any braking system used
in motor sport with the exception of those for which a mineral oil is prescribed. It gives a
“hard pedal” feel

i guess this make sense then? it's a bit hard on the layman/consumers if there's no actual compress-ability tests/data spec to compare with sad.gif

I see i guess that does make sense on the flushing part. At least you won't have any left over engine flush that *may* deter the performance of your new engine oil.


thanks for the insights as usual bro thumbup.gif
empire23
post Sep 8 2014, 07:10 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 8 2014, 01:03 AM)
i see, so overall it would be a deal of trial and error i guess? (what fluid provides what sort of compress-ability/pedal feel)
my experience from switching over to the 5.1 (not even a full drain, merely bled the brakes and top up with the 5.1) is that the clutch feel during cold starts are very precise and doesn't "lag". as i lift of the clutch gradually the engagement is very precise compared to previous, either the car barely moves and if i lift off more i'd over do it and the horrible "manual transmission jerks " will surface as the rpm dipped too low.

SRF = http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPD...RF%20Racing.pdf ?
the viscosity on both cold/100c is almost double against bosch/motul's 5.1 fluids laugh.gif

i guess this make sense then? it's a bit hard on the layman/consumers if there's no actual compress-ability tests/data spec to compare with sad.gif

I see i guess that does make sense on the flushing part. At least you won't have any left over engine flush that *may* deter the performance of your new engine oil.
thanks for the insights as usual bro thumbup.gif
*
I usually attribute the lack of bite in clutch during cold starts to the friction material of the clutch itself rather than the fluid for clutch actuation. My remedy is to simply feather it for 5 seconds until the material heats up. But I guess it might be different in a Mitsubishi CJ based car as both brake and clutch share the same reservoir. My old R34 had independent reservoirs.

The SRF is more viscous but it is an ester based fluid rather than a polyglycol one. Thus the pedal feel is spongier due to compressibility being higher. Castrol have obviously tweaked the formula to limit this issue greatly, but it will be slightly different to your standard high performance based poly fluid. But otherwise its performance under stress is extremely good.


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post Sep 8 2014, 09:06 AM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Sep 8 2014, 07:10 AM)
I usually attribute the lack of bite in clutch during cold starts to the friction material of the clutch itself rather than the fluid for clutch actuation. My remedy is to simply feather it for 5 seconds until the material heats up. But I guess it might be different in a Mitsubishi CJ based car as both brake and clutch share the same reservoir. My old R34 had independent reservoirs.

The SRF is more viscous but it is an ester based fluid rather than a polyglycol one. Thus the pedal feel is spongier due to compressibility being higher. Castrol have obviously tweaked the formula to limit this issue greatly, but it will be slightly different to your standard high performance based poly fluid. But otherwise its performance under stress is extremely good.
*
ah good info as always thumbup.gif
really tempted on the SRF after all the info you've provided... btw regardless of what castrol mention, would there be any issue mixing silicon ester (ya that silicon keyword is a worry) with regular glycol based fluids?
iskazulka
post Sep 10 2014, 03:36 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 12 2014, 12:18 PM)
and there you have it!

ps: AFAIK proton recommends 10w40 for the inspira so... rolleyes.gif
*
on my FL, proton ady updated recommend use 10w30.
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post Sep 10 2014, 03:37 PM

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QUOTE(iskazulka @ Sep 10 2014, 03:36 PM)
on my FL, proton ady updated recommend use 10w30.
*
they changed the booklet or something? or got official letter/announcement?

=edit=
i actually stand corrected as iinm matrix pointed out to me the booklet for inspira is actually just a copy from mitsubishi's manual and it is also recommending 0w20

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Sep 10 2014, 03:38 PM
iskazulka
post Sep 10 2014, 03:56 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 10 2014, 04:37 PM)
they changed the booklet or something? or got official letter/announcement?

=edit=
i actually stand corrected as iinm matrix pointed out to me the booklet for inspira is actually just a copy from mitsubishi's manual and it is also recommending 0w20
*
got supplementary @additional printout. stating use 10w30. later i dig-out the print out.
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post Sep 10 2014, 04:00 PM

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QUOTE(iskazulka @ Sep 10 2014, 03:56 PM)
got supplementary @additional printout. stating use 10w30. later i dig-out the print out.
*
great information bro thumbup.gif thumbup.gif
will help to put on page 1 since we do have a lot of proton/campro users on LYN nod.gif
Mahihi
post Sep 14 2014, 03:37 PM

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Attached Image

New engine oil in town,welcome to get it from me and try it to believe it, tongue.gif tongue.gif
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post Sep 14 2014, 08:42 PM

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QUOTE(Mahihi @ Sep 14 2014, 03:37 PM)
New engine oil in town,welcome to get it from me and try it to believe it, tongue.gif  tongue.gif
*
any info on certifications that can be publicly queried such as the API?
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post Sep 14 2014, 08:44 PM

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QUOTE(zionanubis @ Sep 2 2014, 01:54 PM)
using this oil for my weekend car.

mobil 1 5W-30 EP

user posted image
my car, Civic FD1 (R18A) engine.

feel little different with honda OEM oil ( honda service package 5w-30 eco friendly oil )

is it really can push up till 1 year, only oil exchange ?

i'm weekday driving, 1 month maximum run about 450~500KM

500KM X 12mth= 6000 ++ km for a year.

icon_question.gif
*
mind elaborate what kind of little different u felt? notworthy.gif
Mahihi
post Sep 14 2014, 09:45 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 14 2014, 08:42 PM)
any info on certifications that can be publicly queried such as the API?
*
i tot u will do all the research, tongue.gif tongue.gif

https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...dName%3Dmaxxoil

supplier told me that starting from 2015,nascar and global time attack will have their billboard on it,we shall see...
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post Sep 14 2014, 10:08 PM

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QUOTE(Mahihi @ Sep 14 2014, 09:45 PM)
i tot u will do all the research, tongue.gif  tongue.gif

https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...dName%3Dmaxxoil

supplier told me that starting from 2015,nascar and global time attack will have their billboard on it,we shall see...
*
from the link, the brand name and products don't match at all.

noticed how they did not put the proper API donut/star burst logo and i believe it's because they are not certified.
Considering they are supposedly a US company, they would get into serious trouble putting the API donut/star burst logo if they aren't actually certified sad.gif
Mavik
post Sep 14 2014, 10:15 PM

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Just started using Motul 8100 x-cess engine oil for my diesel engine. Very hard to find real quality engine oil for diesel engines especially those suited for performance.

user posted image

https://www.motul.com/gb/en/products/oils-l...100-x-cess-5w40

So far it makes the diesel engine feel quite smooth as compared to the standard ones which the dealership provides which are normally Castrol 5w-30.
Mahihi
post Sep 14 2014, 10:18 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 14 2014, 10:08 PM)
from the link, the brand name and products don't match at all.

noticed how they did not put the proper API donut/star burst logo and i believe it's because they are not certified.
Considering they are supposedly a US company, they would get into serious trouble putting the API donut/star burst logo if they aren't actually certified sad.gif
*
as i've been told,they are in the process of putting all of the products into the api directory,and they will separate the company,of course,not sure whether they are bull shiting anot,i can only wait for next year.....so far the semi i gotten from them have the vw and mb approval,mean while other brand semi oil rarely has the approval number,so if is true,i am on the right bet...

but then,how about this picture??

Attached Image

This post has been edited by Mahihi: Sep 14 2014, 10:36 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 14 2014, 10:23 PM

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QUOTE(Mahihi @ Sep 14 2014, 10:18 PM)
as i been told,they are in the process of putting all of the products into the api directory,and they will separate the company,of course,not sure whether they are bull shiting anot,i can only wait for next year.....so far the semi i gotten from them have the vw and mb approval,mean while other semi oil rarely has the approval number,so if is true,i am on the right bet...

but then,how about this picture??

Attached Image
*
is that for the products listed from that "olein" company? if not then it could be a serious breach of trust.

perhaps i can inquire further with maxxoil, see what they say (as what i've done to Torco/Liqui moly tongue.gif )
Mavik
post Sep 14 2014, 10:29 PM

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QUOTE(Mahihi @ Sep 14 2014, 10:18 PM)
as i been told,they are in the process of putting all of the products into the api directory,and they will separate the company,of course,not sure whether they are bull shiting anot,i can only wait for next year.....so far the semi i gotten from them have the vw and mb approval,mean while other semi oil rarely has the approval number,so if is true,i am on the right bet...

but then,how about this picture??

Attached Image
*
Can't use this on my car sad.gif

No LL-01 or LL-04 rating....
Mahihi
post Sep 14 2014, 10:30 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 14 2014, 10:23 PM)
is that for the products listed from that "olein" company? if not then it could be a serious breach of trust.

perhaps i can inquire further with maxxoil, see what they say (as what i've done to Torco/Liqui moly tongue.gif )
*
ya lo,olein aka OLIN,lol....

eh,help me ask2,i scared kena tipu leh, sad.gif sad.gif
Mahihi
post Sep 14 2014, 10:31 PM

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QUOTE(Mavik @ Sep 14 2014, 10:29 PM)
Can't use this on my car sad.gif

No LL-01 or LL-04 rating....
*
i can oni afford semi for now,their fully selling price for the customer is at least RM 220, cry.gif cry.gif
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post Sep 14 2014, 10:36 PM

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QUOTE(Mavik @ Sep 14 2014, 10:15 PM)
Just started using Motul 8100 x-cess engine oil for my diesel engine. Very hard to find real quality engine oil for diesel engines especially those suited for performance.

https://www.motul.com/gb/en/products/oils-l...100-x-cess-5w40

So far it makes the diesel engine feel quite smooth as compared to the standard ones which the dealership provides which are normally Castrol 5w-30.
*
hmm it's diesel certification seems a bit obsolete:
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1389027113

http://www.api.org/certification-programs/...NGLISH_2013.pdf

however with the rather high TBN, and BMW specification/approvals, i guess you'll still be fine.
but yeah as you said, diesel engine oil that's specific to performance is rather rare and most of them are not properly certified (at least on the diesel portion)

if possible, do consider publishing UOA's tongue.gif
i can consider organizing bulk to save everyone (and my own) shipping cost
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post Sep 14 2014, 10:36 PM

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QUOTE(Mahihi @ Sep 14 2014, 10:30 PM)
ya lo,olein aka OLIN,lol....

eh,help me ask2,i scared kena tipu leh,  sad.gif  sad.gif
*
will do, will post/tag updates for you/everyone nod.gif
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post Sep 14 2014, 10:39 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 14 2014, 10:36 PM)
hmm it's diesel certification seems a bit obsolete:
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1389027113

http://www.api.org/certification-programs/...NGLISH_2013.pdf

however with the rather high TBN, and BMW specification/approvals, i guess you'll still be fine.
but yeah as you said, diesel engine oil that's specific to performance is rather rare and most of them are not properly certified (at least on the diesel portion)

if possible, do consider publishing UOA's tongue.gif
i can consider organizing bulk to save everyone (and my own) shipping cost
*
What's UOA?

I am actually more interested in the 300v Racing 5w40 from Motul for track days. Dropped Motul a message to see if there are any issues with this oil with my car's current engine.
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post Sep 14 2014, 10:49 PM

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QUOTE(Mavik @ Sep 14 2014, 10:39 PM)
What's UOA?

I am actually more interested in the 300v Racing 5w40 from Motul for track days. Dropped Motul a message to see if there are any issues with this oil with my car's current engine.
*
used oil analysis, may refer to this bro:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69700867

i'm currently running on motul 300v 0w20 at the moment, will be sending mine for another analysis after run 7k km nod.gif
efaceninja
post Sep 15 2014, 01:47 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 8 2014, 09:25 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
wow you really went-on on an extreme path in your EO thingys. first thing i wanna ask, what's TBN (quick search shows Total Base Number) stands/mean for? see you and the report equates that higher number = oil can use longer..

what's the cost of this analysis? you've to send the oil sample all the way to Fort Wayne, Indiana from malaysia here?? malaysia no such analysis lab ah? like SGS or something.. but anyway, good info from you bro~! notworthy.gif mainly on the oil additives part. you know i poured in ceratec into my 40k km engine last time (after heavily poisoned by you whistling.gif this thread (v1), some other local bloggers, online reads, etc). i didn't felt even a slightest change/improvement! haha, i always told myself well, because my engine still very new, and always change oil on time, so the condition inside the engine still very nice and therefore the ceratec can't improve much things. after that i did once poured in BlueChem Nano Engine Super Protection, after 10k of ceratec. this is the only brand of engine additive that's supported (actually distributed) by my SC. still, didn't felt any improvement. *felt as in butt dyno here. i've ever since slowed down on my affection on oil additives, or to the extend of engine oil choices in general. since i want to keep my service/warranty record sparkling clean, i can only use the brand supported by my SC, which is, Shell. already claimed 1 unit of speed/ABS sensor, FOC, so i value my warranty lols.

anyway, one of my friend who's driving wira SE (7yrs old car?), before that he was using Shell HX-7 10w40 semi. then i ask him to change to LM 15w40 MOS2 Mineral, he did said he felt the power pickup (from example go from traffic light) is better than before, and the FC does improved a bit. hopefully its not placebo.. he has since using that LM after that, as it is cheaper (mineral vs semi) and it feels better than Shell's.

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Sep 15 2014, 01:52 AM
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 15 2014, 02:57 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Sep 15 2014, 01:47 AM)
wow you really went-on on an extreme path in your EO thingys.  first thing i wanna ask, what's TBN (quick search shows Total Base Number) stands/mean for? see you and the report equates that higher number = oil can use longer..

what's the cost of this analysis? you've to send the oil sample all the way to Fort Wayne, Indiana from malaysia here?? malaysia no such analysis lab ah? like SGS or something..  but anyway, good info from you bro~! notworthy.gif mainly on the oil additives part.  you know i poured in ceratec into my 40k km engine last time (after heavily poisoned by you whistling.gif this thread (v1), some other local bloggers, online reads, etc).  i didn't felt even a slightest change/improvement! haha, i always told myself well, because my engine still very new, and always change oil on time, so the condition inside the engine still very nice and therefore the ceratec can't improve much things.  after that i did once poured in BlueChem Nano Engine Super Protection, after 10k of ceratec.  this is the only brand of engine additive that's supported (actually distributed) by my SC.  still, didn't felt any improvement.  *felt as in butt dyno here.  i've ever since slowed down on my affection on oil additives, or to the extend of engine oil choices in general.  since i want to keep my service/warranty record sparkling clean, i can only use the brand supported by my SC, which is, Shell.  already claimed 1 unit of speed/ABS sensor, FOC, so i value my warranty lols.

anyway, one of my friend who's driving wira SE (7yrs old car?), before that he was using Shell HX-7 10w40 semi.  then i ask him to change to LM 15w40 MOS2 Mineral, he did said he felt the power pickup (from example go from traffic light) is better than before, and the FC does improved a bit.  hopefully its not placebo.. he has since using that LM after that, as it is cheaper (mineral vs semi) and it feels better than Shell's.
*
here tongue.gif
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_Base_Number

the total cost is around 230+ including that hefty postal fee that's even more expensive than the analysis cost itself.
i'd look for local labs, except they cost between 300-400+ from the quotations i've been given.
until i can find local labs who does this, i guess there's no choice but to send samples all the way to USA.

i don't think I've contacted SGS yet, so yeap i've done exactly that via email just now: http://www.sgs.my/en/Automotive/Vehicles-a...t-Analysis.aspx

as for additives, it is unfortunate that they do not have better methods to test for other elements (eg: ceramic) and the usefulness of it.
as per BSL's Amanda mentioned, it's ok to go with or without additives. they may or may not help, it's ultimately up to individual preferences/engines (types, conditions etc) and so on.
i would never know how my engine is without ws2/ceratec since i immediately used them on the first service (yes a bit stupid i know when it comes to objectively trying out things), i guess i was just way too impatient.

it's going to take a damn long while before i return to amsoil just to see if ws2/ceratec made it smoother, or it's very capable by it's own since OCI's for inspira are 10k km, and i got a pretty decent stockpile of Motul's 300v sweat.gif

btw don't be too easy going on additives that's officially distributed by SC's. proton had X1R and it finally caused serious issues on the CFE engines (and who knows how slow of a death the NA campros are faring all these while, which may have been one of the cause to proton's reputation for "building shit engines")

remember, no matter what elements/material additives used, generally they'd still require a carrier, and to maximize profits, said carriers are typically mineral oil and that's what cause most of the issues on engines as with the case with X1R.
reference:
user posted image

well, using EO from SC aint so bad if you're not an enthusiast.
the only drawback is the obvious higher pricing than market (eg: tesco tongue.gif )
so long you're on the full synthetics that's API SN certified, it's hard to go wrong nod.gif

imho, LM's MOS2 additive isn't a placebo.
however in my pursuit for better lubricants, i soon come to realize that it's actually more economical to run full synthetics at longer oil change intervals.

imagine liqui moly at 5k km ~rm120/bottle
10k km is 240 + 2 oil filters and 2 labor charges.

a full synthetic like amsoil that cost rm180 (or less if you're not going for the high end signature series) can easily push 40k km (25k miles rofl or 24k km/15k miles under severe usage as specified by amsoil), but lets put 10k km for the sake of comparison.

see the comparison now?
arguably, LM MOS2 semi synthetic can be used past 5k km, however in my own experiences, ~5-6k km the performance would begin to degrade while in full synthetics, going way beyond 10k km is never an issue in any of the vehicles in my household.

with all that said though, i still use MOS2 for my kancil, as it had 10k km originally specified even for older API specifications and back then everyone was on mineral oil.
supposedly, the 660cc 3 cylinder wouldn't have much blowby/contaminants so it does make sense for the longer OCI.
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post Sep 22 2014, 08:45 AM

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yup that made sense too. how about the oil filter? need special ones or the normal one can last more than 10k?
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 22 2014, 09:44 AM

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QUOTE(fixgd @ Sep 22 2014, 08:45 AM)
yup that made sense too. how about the oil filter? need special ones or the normal one can last more than 10k?
*
you can always change them halfway; you do not drain your engine oil entirely during oil filter replacement.
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 22 2014, 09:44 AM)
you can always change them halfway; you do not drain your engine oil entirely during oil filter replacement.
*
ic. still need 2 filters. got it.
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post Sep 22 2014, 03:04 PM

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QUOTE(fixgd @ Sep 22 2014, 09:47 AM)
ic. still need 2 filters. got it.
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most car manufacturers still use back the same filter and have 10k km oci, so it's only 2 filters if you're pushing beyond the regular (that most SC uses) 10k km
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 22 2014, 03:04 PM)
most car manufacturers still use back the same filter and have 10k km oci, so it's only 2 filters if you're pushing beyond the regular (that most SC uses) 10k km
*
ic. usually fully syn can go beyond that (10k) without any problem?
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 23 2014, 01:20 AM

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QUOTE(fixgd @ Sep 22 2014, 11:39 PM)
ic. usually fully syn can go beyond that (10k) without any problem?
*
most reputable API SN certified fully synthetics have no problem going beyond 10k km.
amsoil signature series 0w20 i used was labeled to go between 25-40k km/1 year whichever first.
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 23 2014, 01:20 AM)
most reputable API SN certified fully synthetics have no problem going beyond 10k km.
amsoil signature series 0w20 i used was labeled to go between 25-40k km/1 year whichever first.
*
yeah heard bout that too. thats not just some marketing gimmick?

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post Sep 23 2014, 07:58 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 23 2014, 01:20 AM)
most reputable API SN certified fully synthetics have no problem going beyond 10k km.
amsoil signature series 0w20 i used was labeled to go between 25-40k km/1 year whichever first.
*
Those labels take into consideration of the country and weather. Try that in Malaysian weather and humidity I guarantee your car will have issues in the long run if you constantly use the same oil and OCI.
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post Sep 23 2014, 09:36 AM

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QUOTE(fixgd @ Sep 23 2014, 06:59 AM)
yeah heard bout that too. thats not just some marketing gimmick?
*
QUOTE(izso @ Sep 23 2014, 07:58 AM)
Those labels take into consideration of the country and weather. Try that in Malaysian weather and humidity I guarantee your car will have issues in the long run if you constantly use the same oil and OCI.
*
while i have yet to try extreme extended OCI myself (heck, i don't think i can even achieve such high mileage within a year), the UOA report i've included at the first page should be self explanatory.

There are also links/guides/wiki on how to read the UOA report, but if you want a summary here:
my engine oil after 8500km and ~7ish months of usage came out having more detergent/additives than most engine oil being NEW, now how's that for a surprise?
in fact, despite such decently long usage, it has more TBN than torco's SR1 being new according to torco's manufacturer data spec/sheet. (6.6 TBN vs 6.2 TBN)
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 24 2014, 02:09 PM

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efaceninja
Mahihi

update: been more than 10 days, no reply from maxx oil or SGS, lol.
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post Sep 24 2014, 06:16 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 24 2014, 02:09 PM)
efaceninja
Mahihi

update: been more than 10 days, no reply from maxx oil or SGS, lol.
*
haiya,lol....
Thrust
post Sep 25 2014, 07:42 AM

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API SL fully synthetic oil (PAO formulation) vs API SN fully synthetic (highly refined group 3 oil)..

Which is better?
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 25 2014, 07:59 AM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Sep 25 2014, 07:42 AM)
API SL fully synthetic oil (PAO formulation) vs API SN fully synthetic (highly refined group 3 oil)..

Which is better?
*
SN; If the PAO based stock SL is good enough, surely they can be certified for SN as well, if it isn't, then that means it just isn't good enough.
one punch man
post Sep 26 2014, 11:42 PM

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anyone have tried syntium 7000 0w-40 or 5000 0w-30? no review on the net

previously used syntium 3000 10w-40...i would prefer the lighter 5000 0w-30 but the 7000 is newer spec

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post Sep 27 2014, 09:33 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 25 2014, 07:59 AM)
SN; If the PAO based stock SL is good enough, surely they can be certified for SN as well, if it isn't, then that means it just isn't good enough.
*
I asked because i noted that Honda fully synthetic oil with PAO formulation is graded SL is is selling a lot more expensive than the Honda SN fully synthetic oil. There must be something in which the SL oil is better than the SN.
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post Sep 27 2014, 09:43 AM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Sep 27 2014, 09:33 AM)
I asked because i noted that Honda fully synthetic oil with PAO formulation is graded SL is is selling a lot more expensive than the Honda SN fully synthetic oil. There must be something in which the SL oil is better than the SN.
*
not always the more expensive product is better.
Cendol_Pulut90
post Sep 28 2014, 06:55 AM

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QUOTE(one punch man @ Sep 26 2014, 11:42 PM)
anyone have tried syntium 7000 0w-40 or 5000 0w-30? no review on the net

previously used syntium 3000 10w-40...i would prefer the lighter 5000 0w-30 but the 7000 is newer spec
*
if use lighter one, fc improve or not ? and is there any side effect like engine become slow / more response ?

sorry noob here. So far I only use syntium 3000 10w-40 from sc.
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post Oct 1 2014, 11:16 AM

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i just bought shell helix hx7 10w-40 4L at RM110 to service my saga 2005 model car. i felt conned.

How much is the market price now?
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post Oct 1 2014, 01:51 PM

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QUOTE(alexkos @ Oct 1 2014, 11:16 AM)
i just bought shell helix hx7 10w-40 4L at RM110 to service my saga 2005 model car. i felt conned.

How much is the market price now?
*
tesco parallel import and currently under promotion got full synthetic Shell Helix Ultra with the new pureplus technology at RM129.
normal price was 24x or 22x lol
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post Oct 1 2014, 08:21 PM

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Matrix
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...brandName=tesco
really a?
one punch man
post Oct 1 2014, 09:29 PM

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QUOTE(Cendol_Pulut90 @ Sep 28 2014, 06:55 AM)
if use lighter one, fc improve or not ? and is there any side effect like engine become slow / more response ?

sorry noob here. So far I only use syntium 3000 10w-40 from sc.
*
yeah usually lighter eo result in improve fc and faster engine response.
OC4/3
post Oct 1 2014, 11:31 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 14 2014, 10:49 PM)
used oil analysis, may refer to this bro:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69700867

i'm currently running on motul 300v 0w20 at the moment, will be sending mine for another analysis after run 7k km nod.gif
*
BTW you sent your oil sample to us to do analysis?
How much is it and how much it cost?
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post Oct 2 2014, 12:36 AM

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QUOTE(OC4/3 @ Oct 1 2014, 11:31 PM)
BTW you sent your oil sample to us to do analysis?
How much is it and how much it cost?
*
uh wut?

well the posts/links did mention the pricing numerous time but its ok no harm repeating:
usd35 for UOA, poslaju about rm120
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post Oct 2 2014, 10:22 AM

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Cool. Torco SR-1 is API SN.


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post Oct 2 2014, 12:11 PM

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QUOTE(dstl1128 @ Oct 2 2014, 10:22 AM)
yes it is despite the email exchange i had with them biggrin.gif

see, even with all the difficulties and inconvenience, costing etc, it is still important to have proper certification so that you can strengthen trust with your customers nod.gif
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post Oct 3 2014, 01:59 PM

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QUOTE(alexkos @ Oct 1 2014, 11:16 AM)
i just bought shell helix hx7 10w-40 4L at RM110 to service my saga 2005 model car. i felt conned.

How much is the market price now?
*
If u want cheap oil, always keep an eye on Tesco promotion. From Mobil 1 20W50(4L), Mobil 0W40(4L), Shell Ultra Helix (5L), Total Quartz Ineo MC3 5W40(5L), all listed here are fully synthetic and mostly is API SN, price range from RM129-149 during promotion.

Those cheap oil = recycling oil is totally bullshit.
empire23
post Oct 7 2014, 08:00 AM

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Getting my absurdly expensive 8 bottles of Motul DCTF for the Evo X. Only 280 dollars inclusive of shipping. Farkin mahal. I haven't even bought the filter yet for the transmission.

Considering draining the BMW's transmission and replacing with Redline 75W90 NS GL-5 Gear Oil as very fast shifts into certain gears seems rough and hard on the synchros. Other than that there doesn't seem to be many issues either way.
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post Oct 7 2014, 02:04 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 7 2014, 08:00 AM)
Getting my absurdly expensive 8 bottles of Motul DCTF for the Evo X. Only 280 dollars inclusive of shipping. Farkin mahal. I haven't even bought the filter yet for the transmission.

Considering draining the BMW's transmission and replacing with Redline 75W90 NS GL-5 Gear Oil as very fast shifts into certain gears seems rough and hard on the synchros. Other than that there doesn't seem to be many issues either way.
*
going to be replacing my redline MTL as well... this time running without additives for a change.

happen to get them cheap on yesterday's SMART event at one Utama for RM48/quart (regular pricing ranges between rm55-65/quart)
https://www.facebook.com/1Utama/posts/10152316405381689

swept their last 4 bottles of MTL when they were closing at 8pm lol.


probably replacing the gear oil after Sepang, after more wear is induced and then 1 shot drain all of the wear/shavings
empire23
post Oct 7 2014, 02:15 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 7 2014, 02:04 PM)
going to be replacing my redline MTL as well... this time running without additives for a change.

happen to get them cheap on yesterday's SMART event at one Utama for RM48/quart (regular pricing ranges between rm55-65/quart)
https://www.facebook.com/1Utama/posts/10152316405381689

swept their last 4 bottles of MTL when they were closing at 8pm lol.
probably replacing the gear oil after Sepang, after more wear is induced and then 1 shot drain all of the wear/shavings
*
Well it is usually good practice to drain after a stressful event, so it makes good sense.

I've been reading around and it seems for DI cars, a lot of people in the know when it comes to oil chemistry swear by this stuff http://www.renewablelube.com/gasoline.html

Might just give it a try as it is said to be extremely resistant to fuel dillution.
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post Oct 7 2014, 02:20 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 7 2014, 02:15 PM)
Well it is usually good practice to drain after a stressful event, so it makes good sense.

I've been reading around and it seems for DI cars, a lot of people in the know when it comes to oil chemistry swear by this stuff http://www.renewablelube.com/gasoline.html

Might just give it a try as it is said to be extremely resistant to fuel dillution.
*
the website/claims seems so shady until i see this:
http://renewablelube.com/bitog.html

i guess it can't be all that bad when there's oil analysis being done tongue.gif
OC4/3
post Oct 9 2014, 02:19 AM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 7 2014, 08:00 AM)
Getting my absurdly expensive 8 bottles of Motul DCTF for the Evo X. Only 280 dollars inclusive of shipping. Farkin mahal. I haven't even bought the filter yet for the transmission.

Considering draining the BMW's transmission and replacing with Redline 75W90 NS GL-5 Gear Oil as very fast shifts into certain gears seems rough and hard on the synchros. Other than that there doesn't seem to be many issues either way.
*
Why you don't want to stick to OEM Diaqueen DCT oil??
DCTF better then Diaqueen ah??
Jacks Transmission US tested and found Diaquen the best eh

empire23
post Oct 9 2014, 07:22 AM

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QUOTE(OC4/3 @ Oct 9 2014, 02:19 AM)
Why you don't want to stick to OEM Diaqueen DCT oil??
DCTF better then Diaqueen ah??
Jacks Transmission US tested and found Diaquen the best eh
*
Because it is 50 bucks a litre. Which is somewhat unjustified for a car that is only driven 3 times a month.

The OEM Diaqueen SSTF is merely a rebadged Castrol BOT341/Transmax Dual, but it's a lot harder to find.

Plus I might be selling the X to fund a nicer car at the end of the year.
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post Oct 9 2014, 11:22 AM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 9 2014, 07:22 AM)
Because it is 50 bucks a litre. Which is somewhat unjustified for a car that is only driven 3 times a month.

The OEM Diaqueen SSTF is merely a rebadged Castrol BOT341/Transmax Dual, but it's a lot harder to find.

Plus I might be selling the X to fund a nicer car at the end of the year.
*
nicer than the current bmw? shocking.gif
all my jelly lol
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post Oct 9 2014, 03:34 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 9 2014, 11:22 AM)
nicer than the current bmw?  shocking.gif
all my jelly lol
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It'll be cool. Obviously not BAC Mono cool, but still cool nonetheless.
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post Oct 9 2014, 05:31 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 9 2014, 07:22 AM)
Because it is 50 bucks a litre. Which is somewhat unjustified for a car that is only driven 3 times a month.

The OEM Diaqueen SSTF is merely a rebadged Castrol BOT341/Transmax Dual, but it's a lot harder to find.

Plus I might be selling the X to fund a nicer car at the end of the year.
*
Nicer as in Porsche?
Cayman/Boxster??
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post Oct 10 2014, 11:36 PM

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Has anyone tried ConocoPhillips EO before? Saw the 76 Super Synthetic Blend 5w30 going for RM21.50/Quart on the forum.
Tempting...
empire23
post Oct 11 2014, 07:47 AM

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QUOTE(OC4/3 @ Oct 9 2014, 05:31 PM)
Nicer as in Porsche?
Cayman/Boxster??
*
Nop. Was thinking about a Cayman S with all the added goodies, but I already have a coupe.
OC4/3
post Oct 11 2014, 03:20 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 11 2014, 07:47 AM)
Nop. Was thinking about a Cayman S with all the added goodies, but I already have a coupe.
*
Then which Porsche??

y4ng
post Oct 12 2014, 12:36 AM

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hello all sifus!

I am driving a neo cps manual, currently using semi syn Liqui Moly

I wanna change to fully syn, looking at torco or motul...any suggestions?
grade wise, and of course, good engine protection!
thank you!
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post Oct 12 2014, 12:47 AM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:36 AM)
hello all sifus!

I am driving a neo cps manual, currently using semi syn Liqui Moly

I wanna change to fully syn, looking at torco or motul...any suggestions?
grade wise, and of course, good engine protection!
thank you!
*
Check your manual, I believe someone mentioned xw30
If that's true, consider trying out 0w20

Then there's budget, for run of the mill, there's Motul h tech 100 plus. About 180 for 4 litres

Torco SR1 (i also highly recommended) is more performance oriented however they go for around 240/4 litres

There's also motul 8100 series although I haven't tried them out.
I have and is currently on their 300v and my god those double esters are smooth! Not cheap though at about 340/4 litres

If you're looking for insanely long oci, look no further than amsoil signature series (which I have included uoa on first page)
They go at about 180 to 200/4 litres
If you want some certification like api, then scale down to amsoil OE series which also guarantees damn long oci as well (iinm 15k miles instead of 25k miles compared to signature series. Yes f***ing miles not km)
Should be a bit cheaper than signature series
y4ng
post Oct 12 2014, 12:54 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 12:47 AM)
Check your manual,  I believe someone mentioned xw30
If that's true,  consider trying out 0w20

Then there's budget,  for run of the mill,  there's Motul h tech 100 plus. About 180 for 4 litres

Torco SR1 (i also highly recommended)  is more performance oriented however they go for around 240/4 litres

There's also motul 8100 series although I haven't tried them out.
I have and is currently on their 300v and my god those double esters are smooth! Not cheap though at about 340/4 litres

If you're looking for insanely long oci, look no further than amsoil signature series (which I have included uoa on first page)
They go at about 180 to 200/4 litres
If you want some certification like api,  then scale down to amsoil OE series which also guarantees damn long oci as well (iinm 15k miles instead of 25k miles compared to signature series.  Yes f***ing miles not km)
Should be a bit cheaper than signature series
*
fast reply hehe!

i am looking at Torco SR-1R 10W-40, cos my engine overhauled once (cos 1st owner sucked at maintaining), should i go for lower grade? 30s? 5W or 10W dont really make a diff right? i change at 10k when i use fully syn?

motul, used by proton's R3 team as well correct? too expensive for RM340 >.< I am looking at 200++ ranges

for amsoil, erm malaysia's proton filter kenot last that long, so using so long good meh? lazy go to mechanic as them replace oil filter nia, sure he oso tulan.
y4ng
post Oct 12 2014, 01:08 AM

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wait...
300v RM340/4L?

Can tell me where you buy?

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post Oct 12 2014, 01:34 AM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:54 AM)
fast reply hehe!

i am looking at Torco SR-1R 10W-40, cos my engine overhauled once (cos 1st owner sucked at maintaining), should i go for lower grade? 30s? 5W or 10W dont really make a diff right? i change at 10k when i use fully syn?

motul, used by proton's R3 team as well correct? too expensive for RM340 >.< I am looking at 200++ ranges

for amsoil, erm malaysia's proton filter kenot last that long, so using so long good meh? lazy go to mechanic as them replace oil filter nia, sure he oso tulan.
*
The R's aren't API SN certified though, and i doubt they'd put any more detergent/additives for to have the oil last.
it's as per advertised, for racing purposes, however there's always the SR5 or better racing oils so i'm assuming for the more budget conscious racers perhaps? lol.

i use xw20 or xw30 because in malaysia, there's no winter, and w is basically winter grade.
there are MINOR differences on the overall viscosity if you check the data specs, so generally i prefer to go a slow as possible, such as 0w20 instead of say 5w20.
personally i prefer to go as thin viscosity as possible (if manufacturer says xw30, i'll go 10 lower to xw20) depending on manufacturer. AFAIK Campros are either xw30 or xw40 specified, so xw20/xw30 is no problem.

SR1's (or ANY reputable full synthetics especially API SN certified ones) have absolutely NO issue on 10k km, i did 14k km or 16k km afaik (may refer to my previous posts or the ones i saved on first page)

200 ranges i believe the Motul 8100 series would qualify although i've never used them before so i can't personally comment/recommend.
the amsoil/torco SR1 all fall into your budget as well.

Filter don't last long? no problem! half way down the oci cycle you're free to change the oil filter! can diy or send to workshops paying rm10-20.
example: your oci is 20k km, at 10k km just replace the oil filter only, and top up any oil loss during the process smile.gif

you pay mech rm20 also you'd STILL SAVE money in the long run as you only spent 1 time engine oil.
he tulan rm 20? go other mechanics. there's plentiful of places who'd gladly accept a quick buck for a quick oil filter replacement.
worse case? DIY.

QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 01:08 AM)
wait...
300v  RM340/4L?

Can tell me where you buy?
*
hmm should be a typo, 350++
but then again i pretty much bought in bulk and the bill was way over 1k+ to get better pricing sweat.gif
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post Oct 12 2014, 12:26 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 01:34 AM)
The R's aren't API SN certified though, and i doubt they'd put any more detergent/additives for to have the oil last.
it's as per advertised, for racing purposes, however there's always the SR5 or better racing oils so i'm assuming for the more budget conscious racers perhaps? lol.

i use xw20 or xw30 because in malaysia, there's no winter, and w is basically winter grade.
there are MINOR differences on the overall viscosity if you check the data specs, so generally i prefer to go a slow as possible, such as 0w20 instead of say 5w20.
personally i prefer to go as thin viscosity as possible (if manufacturer says xw30, i'll go 10 lower to xw20) depending on manufacturer. AFAIK Campros are either xw30 or xw40 specified, so xw20/xw30 is no problem.

SR1's (or ANY reputable full synthetics especially API SN certified ones) have absolutely NO issue on 10k km, i did 14k km or 16k km afaik (may refer to my previous posts or the ones i saved on first page)

200 ranges i believe the Motul 8100 series would qualify although i've never used them before so i can't personally comment/recommend.
the amsoil/torco SR1 all fall into your budget as well.

Filter don't last long? no problem! half way down the oci cycle you're free to change the oil filter! can diy or send to workshops paying rm10-20.
example: your oci is 20k km, at 10k km just replace the oil filter only, and top up any oil loss during the process smile.gif

you pay mech rm20 also you'd STILL SAVE money in the long run as you only spent 1 time engine oil.
he tulan rm 20? go other mechanics. there's plentiful of places who'd gladly accept a quick buck for a quick oil filter replacement.
worse case? DIY.
hmm should be a typo, 350++
but then again i pretty much bought in bulk and the bill was way over 1k+ to get better pricing sweat.gif
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Anytime u r buying 300v? Maybe gatal wanna try hehehe....can share where u buy please?

TSQuazacolt
post Oct 12 2014, 01:58 PM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:26 PM)
Anytime u r buying 300v? Maybe gatal wanna try hehehe....can share where u buy please?
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Eng_Tat
post Oct 12 2014, 02:41 PM

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hi all, want to ask which grade of eo is suitable for 2.4 Alphard for Malaysian weather? 5w/30 10w/30, 5w/40 or 10w/40? many thanks.
y4ng
post Oct 12 2014, 03:08 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 01:58 PM)
Thank you! Kepong quite near to where i work maybe i drop by if the price is right =) thank you fr your great advice
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post Oct 12 2014, 03:13 PM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 03:08 PM)
Thank you! Kepong quite near to where i work maybe i drop by if the price is right =) thank you fr your great advice
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you're welcome smile.gif
y4ng
post Oct 13 2014, 12:25 AM

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yo sifus! chemlube anyone?

thinking of bulk and chemlube in my range hehehe (cheaper than sr1)
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post Oct 13 2014, 02:05 AM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 13 2014, 12:25 AM)
yo sifus! chemlube anyone?

thinking of bulk and chemlube in my range hehehe (cheaper than sr1)
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https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...Name%3Dchemlube
my only worry is that locally available/distributed chemlube are not on the "CHEMLUBE PREMIUM GOLD FULL SYNTHETIC" label unless the gold color bottle is "premium gold" unsure.gif

that and the lack of 0w20 is enough for me to say no.
That said, i have however used their gear oil on my kancil 660 MT and experience have been very positive.

i had my chemlube gear oil accidentally drained when i replace 1 side of the drive shaft and as workshop help me topped up regular gear oil, the gear shifts feels like shit instantaneously doh.gif
very hard to get into gear especially when it's cold.
since my sis is driving it, unless she's willing to fork out the money to get chemlube gear oil back, i'm not going to bother tongue.gif
y4ng
post Oct 13 2014, 08:06 AM

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Hmmm i was comparing the specs, seems more or less like sr1. Think i will try one round of sr1 before going for chemlube. Any fake torco out there? I am a bit worried to buy from LYN forummers sometimes when it comes it EO.
peejayboy
post Oct 13 2014, 04:30 PM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:54 AM)
fast reply hehe!

i am looking at Torco SR-1R 10W-40, cos my engine overhauled once (cos 1st owner sucked at maintaining), should i go for lower grade? 30s? 5W or 10W dont really make a diff right? i change at 10k when i use fully syn?

motul, used by proton's R3 team as well correct? too expensive for RM340 >.< I am looking at 200++ ranges

for amsoil, erm malaysia's proton filter kenot last that long, so using so long good meh? lazy go to mechanic as them replace oil filter nia, sure he oso tulan.
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Tried and tested Motul H Tech 100 + , honestly there is nothing to shout about where it degrades right after 4k km and engine is terribly rough after that.

Try and use Idemitsu fully synthetic 5w30, Syntium 5000 0w30, Total Quartz 9000 5w30 or Torco SR-1 5w30.

As for me even if i use fully syn oils, my OCI are always 5000km/3 months or maximum 7000km/5 months. Not anything longer than that.

Fyi, Proton oil filter is not that bad in terms of their quality. And usually thinner oil provides better overall lubrication and since you do not redline 24/7, there is no reason to use thicker oil. Just my dua cents biggrin.gif


y4ng
post Oct 13 2014, 04:47 PM

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QUOTE(peejayboy @ Oct 13 2014, 04:30 PM)
Tried and tested Motul H Tech 100 + , honestly there is nothing to shout about where it degrades right after 4k km and engine is terribly rough after that.

Try and use Idemitsu fully synthetic 5w30, Syntium 5000 0w30, Total Quartz 9000 5w30 or Torco SR-1 5w30.

As for me even if i use fully syn oils, my OCI are always 5000km/3 months or maximum 7000km/5 months. Not anything longer than that.

Fyi, Proton oil filter is not that bad in terms of their quality. And usually thinner oil provides better overall lubrication and since you do not redline 24/7, there is no reason to use thicker oil. Just my dua cents  biggrin.gif
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hmm okies thanks! i have placed an order for sr-1 for now..

just wondering, u r using neo w r3 extractor but u sold off your 1.5 myvi for it? before i bought my neo cps i was looking at 1.5 myvi manual is it that bad?

so what oil are you using currently?






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post Oct 13 2014, 05:19 PM

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QUOTE(peejayboy @ Oct 13 2014, 04:30 PM)
Tried and tested Motul H Tech 100 + , honestly there is nothing to shout about where it degrades right after 4k km and engine is terribly rough after that.

Try and use Idemitsu fully synthetic 5w30, Syntium 5000 0w30, Total Quartz 9000 5w30 or Torco SR-1 5w30.

As for me even if i use fully syn oils, my OCI are always 5000km/3 months or maximum 7000km/5 months. Not anything longer than that.

Fyi, Proton oil filter is not that bad in terms of their quality. And usually thinner oil provides better overall lubrication and since you do not redline 24/7, there is no reason to use thicker oil. Just my dua cents  biggrin.gif
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i do agree that the motul h tech 100 plus is nothing to shout about. (not much difference in smoothness/performance whatsoever)
however i do disagree that it degrades after 4k km as i've done OCI of 12-16k km with motul h tech 100 plus without any form of degradation whereas SR1 would lose it's "performance characteristics" around 12k-14k km (iinm, have to dig back on my old review/feedback)
no engine roughness at all, and the internals are pretty much sparkling clean/mirror shine as before. laugh.gif

fully syn going such short oci is a thing of the past bro.
i've done really crazy red lines/fuel cuts (feel free to dig my youtube videos) and yet my UOA report turns out that my amsoil 0w20 i drained out is even fresher than BRAND NEW engine oil after around 7 months and 8500km (higher calcium/TBN than other manufacturers virgin oil)

and yes, i am an advocate of thinner lubricants regardless of usage.
even most manufacturers (like honda, ford) are pushing the SAE to officialize 0w16
peejayboy
post Oct 13 2014, 06:40 PM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 13 2014, 04:47 PM)
hmm okies thanks! i have placed an order for sr-1 for now..

just wondering, u r using neo w r3 extractor but u sold off your 1.5 myvi for it? before i bought my neo cps i was looking at 1.5 myvi manual is it that bad?

so what oil are you using currently?
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no probs! smile.gif i'm still using stock extractor tho, only change the r3 muffler and previously was driving myvi 1.5 auto as it was family car. I would say myvi has better response due to the "drive by cable" setup as compared to drive by wire. But handling and top speed, myvi no match hahah.

Now currently on syntium 5000 0w30 by proton sc so far so thumbup.gif and how about you? currently driving at or mt neo?


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post Oct 13 2014, 06:47 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 13 2014, 05:19 PM)
i do agree that the motul h tech 100 plus is nothing to shout about. (not much difference in smoothness/performance whatsoever)
however i do disagree that it degrades after 4k km as i've done OCI of 12-16k km with motul h tech 100 plus without any form of degradation whereas SR1 would lose it's "performance characteristics" around 12k-14k km (iinm, have to dig back on my old review/feedback)
no engine roughness at all, and the internals are pretty much sparkling clean/mirror shine as before. laugh.gif

fully syn going such short oci is a thing of the past bro.
i've done really crazy red lines/fuel cuts (feel free to dig my youtube videos) and yet my UOA report turns out that my amsoil 0w20 i drained out is even fresher than BRAND NEW engine oil after around 7 months and 8500km (higher calcium/TBN than other manufacturers virgin oil)

and yes, i am an advocate of thinner lubricants regardless of usage.
even most manufacturers (like honda, ford) are pushing the SAE to officialize 0w16
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Sorry for double posting, didn't saw it earlier. Well to be frank, i've used my myvi as a lab rat before for long OCI (8k km mileage around 6 months) on fully syn oils and the outcome wasn't that great.

There's actually alot of factor to be taken into consideration such as start stop traffics, traffic jams, long idling, redlining and so on which is why for me particularly i rather be on the safe side for now. But i believe that everyone has their own way of maintaining their vehicle where there is no right or wrong icon_rolleyes.gif

As for me, oil is much cheaper as compared to spare parts/overhauling lol


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post Oct 13 2014, 08:20 PM

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QUOTE(peejayboy @ Oct 13 2014, 06:47 PM)
Sorry for double posting, didn't saw it earlier. Well to be frank, i've used my myvi as a lab rat before for long OCI (8k km mileage around 6 months) on fully syn oils and the outcome wasn't that great.

There's actually alot of factor to be taken in