Fatality : Pennzoil is a cheap and cheerful oil. Not designed for motorsports but quite good for daily consumption since it's cheap and OEM for Toyota.

And I got my Eneos Touring expensive cuz bought from... Eneos. My mistake really. LOL.. and 95 is cheap!

kalvinkhoo : 5W30 and 10W30 no difference except cold start viscosity. And in Malaysia 5 or 10 doesn't make a difference. In a winter country this would matter.

Got the budget? Swap to manufacturers oil, then immediately after that drive to a mechanic and change the oil to your own choice

In that case what car are you driving? What does the warranty cover? If it's those 3+2 stories where 2 is insurance company coverage, you can forget about ever using your own oil. Insurance coverage is a b****. If it's 3 years manufacturer warranty you might be able to get away with using your own oil at the service center (you have to ask if you can bring your own oil. Some allow)

Aiyo.. go google "bobtheoilguy". His explanation is the easiest to understand.

I wrote something about this sometime ago in ZTH : http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/fea...ngine-oils.html

It's not quite temperature. It's the viscosity index when cold. The other number after "w" is the viscosity index at 100 degrees Celsius (usually means warmed up engine temp, not quite but close).

There's a lot to learn about engine oils. Do your research and buy based on your budget.

Try Penrite 5W40 HPR or their premium range. Confirm will reduce lifter noise. Don't know how it does it.

rich guy

Those labels take into consideration of the country and weather. Try that in Malaysian weather and humidity I guarantee your car will have issues in the long run if you constantly use the same oil and OCI.

Use any 5W30 oil will be good for you. Got budget stick with fully synthetic oils like OEM engine oil.

0W20 is for the climate there. Local Tancheong recommends 5W30

I'm wondering how the sample oil is affected when shipped and stored that long in unknown environments. Cold if air flown, then ambient temperature of the receiving country and there's humidity and possibly rough handling? etc.

Is there some sort of protective box or wrapping that comes with the UOA test kit?

I see. So it's "safe" from moisture and humidity then?

Are you sure that's even necessary? You're permanently camped on LY anyway

You ARE crazy.

If your car has been on minerals all this while, best be careful changing to semi or fully syn. Check for leaks after then oil change cuz you'll never know with mineral oils.

Personally my motto has always been buy what's within your budget. Pennzoil is a reputable brand that's certified and is relatively cheap, but not exactly the best. But you get for what you pay. Their semi oil costs about RM90 and the FS is about RM130. Like what Quazcolt said - why not top up for the FS? If it's out of budget the semi works fine. Personally I find the Perodua 5W30 white bottle semi oil quite bang for buck.




The car brands rebrand oil la.. you'll never see them listed in the API index / website. Perodua rebrands PETRONAS oil and they are API certified. Toyota - Pennzoil, Honda - Idemitsu, etc. All API certified. But you already know that.

So don't so anti-local la. You're driving a Proton afterall

Duckhams and Castrol are now owned by BP. Last I heard BP was selling the Duckhams brand. You'll need to find specific workshops that sell this brand, it's super rare now.

You're not comparing apple with apple. You're talking about putting engine oil into a gearbox. That's like saying can I use engine oil for cooking. Sure you can. It'll destroy the food, the taste will be terrible and you'll probably spoil your pans.

If you had bothered to read up on engine oils, gearbox oils and all, the only thing they have in similarity is the base oil. Additives are different, detergents are different, friction modifiers are different, etc.

But you're welcome to try. Just make sure you share your findings here once you destroy a synchro or two.

did you even bother to read it? It's all hearsay hearsay and hearsay. Manufacturers do not simply call "engine oil" for no reason. Same applies for gear oil. If you choose to ignore the most obvious labels and choose to interchange the two, it's your choice and no one will say anything. Afterall, it's your car therefore your problem.

Incidentally, there's no need to declare how you were unable to find the right oils in that one single petrol station you went to, or to announce that you're using Redline. If you have a look at the title of this thread, it's "Engine Oil Reviews/Technical talk", not "Tell the world I'm using what oil".

Cheers.

J brand using someone elses API certification or just referring to the email replies?

Hey Quazacolt - have you ever tried J brand and thrown in a oil test? It would be the ultimate in-your-face response to those MLM junkies.

Honestly I don't mean to be harsh or unfriendly. But I'm in the oil & gas industry and I've had my fair share of questions from dozens of people asking some of the most ridiculous questions. Companies spend millions on R&D on their oils and products - I find it preposterous that people think that they know better than the oil companies and use their products incorrectly, then later complain that this is crap or that is rubbish.

This post has been edited by izso: Feb 11 2015, 02:10 PM

You need to find a reputable mechanic who knows his way around your car. Then ask for a quote to do a complete overhaul. Replace oil seals, gaskets, piston rings, etc and skim the head. Then pour in that 0W40 of yours after you finish running in the rebuilt engine. Guarantee you'll feel a difference in FC and power. But it sounds like you'll need to spend 3-4k total.