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> Engine Oil Reviews/Technical talk v2, Everything Automotive lubricants/fluids

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efaceninja
post Aug 5 2014, 10:42 PM

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finally a pinned thread on car lubes~~!
too bad i finally resorted to strictly comply to my manufacturer's oil until warranty is out.
efaceninja
post Aug 6 2014, 08:37 AM

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QUOTE(izso @ Aug 6 2014, 07:54 AM)
Got the budget? Swap to manufacturers oil, then immediately after that drive to a mechanic and change the oil to your own choice
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Woh, don't have that kind of budget man.
efaceninja
post Aug 10 2014, 08:53 AM

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QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:24 AM)
In dilemma whether should try 5w-50 since my car current EO is due...using 0w-40

Is it advisable switch from 0w-40 > 5w-50?
Both are Mobil oil..
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QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 10 2014, 02:46 AM)
All the while been using 10w40, 0w40 since I'd got my car.
Engine feedback respond is quite positive since my car engine is 4G93..as you know this engine valve lifter prone to noisy & loud due to different EO grade used.
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why you want to change to xw-50 oil? is it because want extra protection? or.. you expect that it will give quieter noise? or.. the foreman keep asking you to take xw-50?
efaceninja
post Aug 26 2014, 07:59 PM

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anyone used any radiator coolant flush product before?
efaceninja
post Aug 27 2014, 08:58 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 27 2014, 03:50 AM)
used this from Eneos:
user posted image

but as i google i found :
http://www.prop65daily.com/Litigation/Peop...ncorporated.pdf

probably why they seem to be so hard to google these days, company closed? lol

anyways if your car is still new, just replace the coolant more frequently if you don't want risk that may come from coolant flushes.
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the car i intended to use on is old car, the coolant so far i believe has been using RM 6 coolant off the shelve of supermarket. not sure how frequent it changed. and i think there was a period it was filled with plain pipe water only.. tongue.gif well, back then i was not knowledgeable as now.. rclxub.gif now i plan to replace it with those long life one from shell. so before that, was thinking of giving it a flush first.

hmmm, what risk here you referring to? you mean it may harden the seals or dislodge a clogged hole (make the hole reappear and leak)??

also, i've discovered that radiator flush coolant product are a lot more rare than engine oil flush.
efaceninja
post Aug 30 2014, 09:54 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 27 2014, 03:50 AM)
used this from Eneos:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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lols saw your blue cloral radiator flush at one of the Acehardware store. and many others brand.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

efaceninja
post Sep 4 2014, 09:05 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 3 2014, 05:14 PM)
well my detailing products are just sitting there for the most part... i mean the last time i washed my new car (or any car for that matter lol) was months ago sweat.gif
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in kitchen too? cool2.gif whistling.gif whistling.gif whistling.gif
efaceninja
post Sep 15 2014, 01:47 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 8 2014, 09:25 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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wow you really went-on on an extreme path in your EO thingys. first thing i wanna ask, what's TBN (quick search shows Total Base Number) stands/mean for? see you and the report equates that higher number = oil can use longer..

what's the cost of this analysis? you've to send the oil sample all the way to Fort Wayne, Indiana from malaysia here?? malaysia no such analysis lab ah? like SGS or something.. but anyway, good info from you bro~! notworthy.gif mainly on the oil additives part. you know i poured in ceratec into my 40k km engine last time (after heavily poisoned by you whistling.gif this thread (v1), some other local bloggers, online reads, etc). i didn't felt even a slightest change/improvement! haha, i always told myself well, because my engine still very new, and always change oil on time, so the condition inside the engine still very nice and therefore the ceratec can't improve much things. after that i did once poured in BlueChem Nano Engine Super Protection, after 10k of ceratec. this is the only brand of engine additive that's supported (actually distributed) by my SC. still, didn't felt any improvement. *felt as in butt dyno here. i've ever since slowed down on my affection on oil additives, or to the extend of engine oil choices in general. since i want to keep my service/warranty record sparkling clean, i can only use the brand supported by my SC, which is, Shell. already claimed 1 unit of speed/ABS sensor, FOC, so i value my warranty lols.

anyway, one of my friend who's driving wira SE (7yrs old car?), before that he was using Shell HX-7 10w40 semi. then i ask him to change to LM 15w40 MOS2 Mineral, he did said he felt the power pickup (from example go from traffic light) is better than before, and the FC does improved a bit. hopefully its not placebo.. he has since using that LM after that, as it is cheaper (mineral vs semi) and it feels better than Shell's.

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Sep 15 2014, 01:52 AM
efaceninja
post Nov 24 2014, 08:57 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 19 2014, 06:43 PM)
something to read on in regards to WS2 additives:
pdf click

thanks to forumer nicotine for sharing thumbup.gif
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doh.gif doh.gif doh.gif doh.gif doh.gif doh.gif doh.gif so most of the aftermarket additive is no good? so better just stick to those EO with confirmed API certifications? for example, LiquiMoly don't have API right? i'm still using the one with MOS2, which, MOS2 is also sold as an additive...

btw, bro Quazacolt, since you guys are into EO sampling, have you thought of using an oil suction device, suck out a bit of oil through the dip stick hole, maybe 50-100ml, every 1,000km, so you can have oil sample at different stages?
user posted image
efaceninja
post Nov 27 2014, 11:21 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 12:47 AM)
Check your manual,  I believe someone mentioned xw30
If that's true,  consider trying out 0w20

Then there's budget,  for run of the mill,  there's Motul h tech 100 plus. About 180 for 4 litres

Torco SR1 (i also highly recommended)  is more performance oriented however they go for around 240/4 litres

There's also motul 8100 series although I haven't tried them out.
I have and is currently on their 300v and my god those double esters are smooth! Not cheap though at about 340/4 litres

If you're looking for insanely long oci, look no further than amsoil signature series (which I have included uoa on first page)
They go at about 180 to 200/4 litres
If you want some certification like api,  then scale down to amsoil OE series which also guarantees damn long oci as well (iinm 15k miles instead of 25k miles compared to signature series.  Yes f***ing miles not km)
Should be a bit cheaper than signature series
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now taking on interest in this AMSOIL oil 0w20, poisoned by, well, Quazacolt. ok the amsoil Signature Series & OE series, what's the different? both are fully synt right? saw the OE product name in the API page. how much is the price different between OE & Signature?

Intended to use on 4AFE engine. yes its an old engine, so i'm not actually sure 0w20 will do any harm. but reading through this thread, the oil film strength seems to be more important factor in wear protection? currently using 10w30 oil and no oil leak / loss has been detected yet. wanna try this 0w20 on next oil change, for the sack of improving FC, but also at the same time wanna protect the engine.

my driving style is medium-fast steady. you know la, being able to satisfied with your-most-hated CC5's grip level, i don't really trash my car that much.

do.. what do you reckon?? (i think i've always been poisoned by you)

edit: quick look at Amsoil's malaysia distributor website "Vicson Lubricant", i can't find the OE series in their website, only Signature series and XL series. So can we buy OE series in malaysia?? Well, XL 0w20 SN is found on the API listing also, but not Signature series.

p/s: i know you running 0w20 in your Inspira. but are you running 0w20 in your Iswara?? or are you planning to do so?

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Nov 28 2014, 01:55 PM
efaceninja
post Nov 28 2014, 02:15 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 27 2014, 07:21 PM)
Honda japan/USA no prob... Honda Malaysia...
http://paultan.org/2014/11/27/honda-malays...ew-engine-oils/

hopefully someone can clarify la laugh.gif
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see that Honda Malaysia now has API SN 0w20 engine oil. how does it compares to the Amsoil? anyone has the PDS?
Just now i went to my local UMW Toyota 3S centre, asking for the price of Toyota's 0w20 EO. they replied me they don't have that grade, only got xw40 and xw30. then i ask, how about the prius or prius C that came here for service? they say they just offer xw30 and/or xw40 .. sweat.gif sweat.gif

Amsoil seems not readily available around my area.. so i now exploring the option of this new honda SN 0w20 oil. hope you extreme badass EO knowledge can shed some light on me lols.

OR, if it is just a bad idea trying to run 0w20 on such an old engine.
efaceninja
post Nov 28 2014, 04:14 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 28 2014, 03:44 PM)
SC/mainstream branded EO = you pay for the brand. and i already commented on paultan blog, the damn thing isn't even API SN or even API certified at all unless someone want to point out who's the exact OEM for this honda new oil that i'm lazy/not bothered to check.
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https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...anyName%3Dhonda

i thought is under AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR COMPANY, INC name? API until SN for all those listed in paultan.
efaceninja
post Nov 28 2014, 04:53 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 28 2014, 04:31 PM)
ACURA ULTIMATE FULL SYNTHETIC <--- different label.

HONDA GENUINE SYNTHETIC BLEND
HONDA GENUINE ULTIMATE FULL SYNTHETIC
HONDA ULTIMATE FULL SYNTHETIC

all these also don't match.
the one in Malaysia have no "ULTIMATE"
and from paultan it's not synthetic blend also.

those still on Honda Genuine are non SN.

that's why i ask again, anyone wanna clarify?  rolleyes.gif
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i thought this "HONDA GENUINE SYNTHETIC BLEND" is the one referred by paultan. well, yup looking at paultan's its called Honda Genuine only, so they're different thing?? and also in the picture, there's no API logo printed/displayed. lols that's why need your eye to spot this kind of thing notworthy.gif notworthy.gif notworthy.gif

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Nov 28 2014, 04:54 PM
efaceninja
post Nov 28 2014, 05:07 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 28 2014, 03:44 PM)
different product range.
signature series being top of the line, non api certified.
XL = extended life
OE = normal EO
both XL/OE API SN certified.
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...nyName%3Damsoil

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/moto...ine/?filters=73
dunno pricing for XL/OE but can use above as reference.

if xw30 is ok, xw20 should be of no problem.
If it is, then next oci go back to xw30. simple.


signature series may be excessive for you if you're not into the extreme OCI thing/minor performance/smoothness boost (since it's their top of the line signature series lol)... the additives are just way overboard lol. (hence not API certified)
i went for it only because the bottle was pretty (got signature on it lol), and it is cheaper than Torco SR1 0w20 which was what i initially wanted to go for however they don't have 4 bottles at that time, only 2.

no idea on getting OE series in Malaysia, just ask around.

Iswara is still on the xw30 Motul H Tech 100 plus, still a looooooonnnggg way to go until drain, which yes i am tempted/planning to go for 0w20 laugh.gif
my sis complained on cold start sluggish since the valves clearance were tightened for my track performance purposes... and sluggish cold start? 0w20 is PERFECT tongue.gif

if you can dig back your manual and see it's viscosity range, +/- xw10 from that value shouldn't be of any issue.
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sweat.gif pretty bottle lols
i think you just boost my confident level again, or rather, poison level. will try to look for the XL series. XL has got 9.0 TBN, Signature series has wayyyy higher TBN lols, according to their PDS.

LM's Special Tec AA (their only series certified with API) SN 0w20's TBN is 6.6. So i think, Amsoil XL is way better in this regard?
efaceninja
post Nov 28 2014, 11:39 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 28 2014, 05:25 PM)
HOLLLYYYY SHEEET LM FINALLY TOOK MY EMAIL TO HEART AND API (re, as they were api certified back in the 2008/2009 and before iinm) CERTIFY THEIR PRODUCTS

anyways.
can't just look at TBN alone, other specs (PDA/MSDS etc, for VI, actual viscosity ratings, HTHS, flash points etc), or VOA (virgin oil analysis)/UOA would be better.

example, even if TBN is 9, however other additives aren't good enough (say, calcium) or strong enough, the rate may deplete faster than say, a TBN 6.
if anything, i still had 6.3TBN after 8500 km on the amsoil signature series 0w20.
although the lab guys mention that TBN depletes at very high rate during the initial stages of the engine oil, however it'll start to slow down half way, which does make sense as the 8500km rate of TBN depletion certainly wouldn't be able to make it till 40k km (25k miles).

Then there's always other additives, friction modifiers etc.
hence the user feedback of "x oil smoother than y oil" smile.gif

API is always the safe bet as chances of going wrong is much lesser. remember, it's NOT easy to get it certified, as you need money (some companies choose not to certify as they don't want to pay, and/or add to their product cost), and the fact that emissions/cat-con protection etc is taken into account, while at the same time you have to protect your engine wear on very stringent tests at insane temperatures/hours.

i'm comfortable on the signature series/300v as i'm going to do UOA anyways... and they are products that represent the very company/brand itself. (should look at 300v ads/youtube videos rofl)
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Ok ok. So if I can't get the amsoil, I suppose I'll get the LM Special Tec AA, which is API SN certified and is available near my area.
efaceninja
post Nov 29 2014, 09:43 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 29 2014, 12:55 AM)
do post the price on the special tec AA, because semi syn for a premium doesn't quite sit well with me laugh.gif
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Oh ya, this is the part I don't quite get you. I thought the LM STAA is a fully synt oil? I mean, for their MOS2 series, they did label it as Semi Synthetic and Mineral.

IIRC LM STAA price is same or almost same as the Shell Helix Ultra.

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Nov 29 2014, 09:48 AM
efaceninja
post Nov 29 2014, 09:47 AM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Nov 29 2014, 08:26 AM)
My dad just serviced his Almera at Edaran Tan Chong Motor.. Those buggers used only 3 bottles of 1litre SN0W20 semi synthetic engine oil. The another 1 litre was added using RESTORER additives (friction modifier, hospower).

Please enlighten whether this is a good practice & can the engine oil last 10k by doing that?

I personally feels more comfortable if they use only engine oil fluids.
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Almera is using 0w20 EO default recommend by TC itself? Wow.good good.

What kind of restorer additive they're using??
efaceninja
post Dec 1 2014, 09:44 AM

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QUOTE(dstl1128 @ Dec 1 2014, 08:41 AM)
LM synthetic technology are hydrocracked group 3. Only synthoil (full synthetic) is group 4. And MoS2 won't be API rated as I've asked them.
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QUOTE
Thank you for your inquiry from the 03.11.2014 and the interest in our products.

The Leichtlauf High Tech will not come as a 5W-30. If you want to have a 5W-30 with a high ash content, we would recommend you to use the Leichtlauf Special AA 5W-30 (please have a look at your manufacturer specification).

We only mix the 10W-30 and 10W-40 semi-synthetic with the MoS2, because if would do that with ervery oil, we would not get any manufacturer approval.
The car manufacturer don't want to have solid lubricants in the engine oil, because this additive extend the life-time of an engine.
The Oil Additive can be mixed with every conventional engine oil (fully synthetic, semi synthetic, mineral or HC).

We hope we could help you with our informations. Should you have further questions regarding our products we would be very pleased to get contacted from you again.

Mit freundlichen Grüßen / Best regards
wait what? you mean LM is telling us that car manufacturers don't want solid lubs in engine oil, because car maker wants the engine life span to be shorter?? so that car maker can earn more money because their engine kabut faster and therefore normal folks need to buy car more often?? am i understand correctly??
efaceninja
post Dec 15 2014, 06:25 AM

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Bro Quazacolt, new 0w20 EO player in ther market~~! lols. https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3440479
i know you must feel proud of perodua. haha. but however, is their perodua EO API certified? didn't go check yet.

efaceninja
post Dec 15 2014, 09:19 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 15 2014, 08:38 AM)
no. perodua never make me proud.

https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsSearch
query yourself

quick answer: no.
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Hahhaha, don't be so harsh. But anyway, come to think of it, actually perodua no need to go through the hassle for API certification. They don't market their oil to other cars. They make/source the oil only for their own car, they tested for their own car. And it is covered by their warranty. So why should they care about API?

API is more relevant if the EO is to be used on many other engines.

P/s: I still can't find any AMSoil dealer near my areas...

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