Good oils their XPR line, I recommend them for any cast iron block engine as they've performed best on my RB25DET. Pricey but I've done 20000+ km between an oil change using RP without the car missing a beat or the turbocharger giving me any issues.

I've never used their HPS line, but I figure it wouldn't be too far off from the XPR.

Dah beli, guna lah...

if already bought, use lo

From phone :

Crank
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Money shot top lol
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ya flushes are meant to be very thin/light, and they will further thin/light your existing oil/break down dirt/carbon/sludge etc.

in fact, we were just discussing about this few pages ago which you can refer to
On the Iswara, in order of usage where motul is last used: Torco TR5 > Liqui Moly MOS2 > Torco SR-1 > Motul H tech 100 plus were used before the picture is taken.

Recently (after pictures) it runs on Shell Helix Ultra with pureplus cheap from Tesco because piston ring/seals leaking, causing engine oil consumption which make those boutique oils really expensive to run with

Already bought, just use. But keep a lookout for leaks and stuff. I'm assuming your gaskets (head gasket, oil seals etc) have never been changed before? If you've been on semi all this time, you should be relatively safe from leaks. No harm even if you do find leaks though. Better you remediate the issue now rather than finding out later when the leak becomes a waterfall.

debatable, and controversial.
some say worse, some say improve.

from the top of my head, ester softens, while PAO hardens.
blend of both, settle for a middle point.

i believe even full esters like motul would have pao or some form of method/countermeasure, maybe in form of additives or something that prevent seals from swelling too much.
consider reading up: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/esters-in-sy...tic-lubricants/

imho, reputable obviously taken this into consideration and most likely have done countless hours of testing/R&D etc. so when it comes down to consumer, just use only.

again, as sifu izso pointed out: synthetics DO NOT CAUSE LEAKS.
they are most likely caused by the oil cleaning/clearing away deposits that was filling up the seal and now that they are gone, it leaks.

in case you haven't forgotten, bsl is american based and obviously they would take a much more conservative approach else they risk unwanted lawsuits
now, do pay attention to the UOA's TBN, and look for another EO's data sheet, such as Torco's SR-1 full synthetic.
i have more additives(layman)/base number after 8500km usage than a brand new EO lol.

my personal recommendation, is refer back to your original owner manual/manufacturer recommendation, then experiment yourself.
eg:
1st time 10k, 2nd time 15k with an oil filter change on the 7500km. 3rd time maybe 20k km.
for Malaysia, going beyond 20/30k km is a bit of a risk unless you really know what you're doing and/or have UOA's to back the results.

Butt feel la. Eventually around 10k or so, you might start to feel the car is feeling sluggish or mushy. That's when you need to change.

honestly there isn't much solid ways to tell besides maybe a ph indicator paper to tell how acidic the oil has become and maybe visually inspect how viscous/thin the oil is compared to how it originally was.

feeling oils from your engine would be very detrimental to your personal health and i would advise doing so.

it should also not be honey like transparent as the oil obviously didn't do a good job in making sure your engine is clean. all my oil drains turns out pitch black after usage regardless of any brand/make so far.

if you want, you can try building a high temperature resistant filtration unit or something of the sort, and maybe have it filtering in between the drain pan or something during an OCI, see if you can visually inspect anything.
if you could, consider it being a damn serious case as the wears on my UOA are not visually inspect-able.

http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles/extoxnet/TIB/ppm.html

any filtration media (like paper) should be fine, it's just to collect/accumulate any sediments/metal shavings/wear as you drain the oil.
chances are you won't see anything, as again, if you do, it could spell serious trouble.

the only exception is transmission oil drains where metal shavings are to be expected especially on the first few drains (up to even 5 drains, or even every drain if you're engaging in motorsport/severe usages)

as for magnets, it can be a double edge sword as with my own minor experimentation as well (refer first page/previous posts for more details)
magnets will demagnetize upon heat depending on their intended grade.
if lets say all your accumulated metal particles suddenly got de-magnetized and reflow back in your engine in a surge, imagine the abrasion it could possibly cause

How is this done? Wouldn't oil spill when the oil filter is removed, and would continue to flow while trying to attach a new filter?
Instead, why not opt for mobil 1 filter? Those are quite good and easily obtainable. roughly x2 the price of normal filter, and have better filtration. Don't have to go through so much hassle.

Yes!  As per the subtitle "Everything Automotive lubricants/fluids"

eh if with lubegard your ATF should last much longer.

now if you do decide to go with reputable brand/boutique ATF, you could probably save a little without going lubegard, those ATF do perform/last way better than the conventional/mainstream stuff

right now i am using full synthetic Motul ATF 1A, highly recommended so long it fits your ATF requirement (eg: SP III for mitsubishi or older KIA models that uses the same/similar gearboxes, or dextron III)

before motul it was Caltex ATF J, before that yes Q8

i believe most manufacturer recommends between 40-60k km.
just that our weather/traffic jams putting the ATF in much higher temperature/stress and it will thin out a LOT more. (remember how your dip stick have a check at cold/hot levels?)

ok Caltex ATF J was the go-to oil last time, it was semi synthetic at iinm 36/liter
now raised price, 39/liter.

motul ATF 1A was like rm50/liter for fully synthetic.
im not sure if they got raise price recently, but for small difference, i decided that motul ATF 1A was much better than caltex ATF-J

no power difference, but shifts were much faster/crisp.
after motul, i no longer use lubegard.
with Caltex ATF J i still did. ultimate my butt dyno says motul ATF 1A > Caltex ATF J + lubegard, never tried motul + lubegard as the transmission performance/specs can no longer improve anyways (it was a very old 3 speed at box since 1999, the designs and usage date was since the 1980's)

I'm not a believer of additives. Sort of. If you look after the GB well enough, you shouldn't ever need additives. Motul GB oil will cost you a lotta money, adding a RM90 bottle of additive is supposed to help how exactly?

Incidentally, if you're changing ATF soon, make sure you change the ATF filter. ATF very rarely will change colour since it's a closed system. If it does change colour you have a leak somewhere or is overcooking your GB too often and need a cooler.

Everything also raise price

no offense taken
but you have to also realize i've been in 4 hours straight track days, with each run having an average of 8-10+ laps straight (some math, since my car slow ma, per lap more than 3 minutes... 10 laps = ~30 minutes right?), red lines are pretty constant since our gear ratio is a joke on the track when it involves second gear lol

but no la i dont red line all the time since my power band is between 4.5-5.5k and no reason to hold a red line/lower gear (again, our gear ratio lol) unless i am heel toe downshifting into a corner.
i generally use gear 3 and 4 only, never 5, and gear 2 for turn 1, 2, sometimes 4, 9, sometimes 14, 15.
gear 2 will spike my rpm between 6.5-7.5k
my rev is limited to 7k and it wont upset/bother the car so long it is just a blip aka rev matching and no further revving beyond 7k

if that is not convincing enough, my peak oil temp is 129 Celsius and oil pressure is between 100-130psi on the red lines.

and i thought my reports were all "OMG THERES WEAR YOUR ENGINE IS DYING" if you ever show them to BITOG forum fanatics lol.

yes, ~10k km, 2 track days, 3 TBN.
300v is motul's top of the line/best/highest end racing range, NOT API, JASO, or ACEA certified.

i would assume, maintaining engine cleanliness in racing engines/teams are also among motul's top priorities. (which is in their advertisement as well iinm)

i asked around, most comments i got was somewhere along the line of "you waiting to change engine is it?"

and no, i don't use an oil cooler even though i brought the car to Sepang track days.