Check your manual,  I believe someone mentioned xw30
If that's true,  consider trying out 0w20

Then there's budget,  for run of the mill,  there's Motul h tech 100 plus. About 180 for 4 litres

Torco SR1 (i also highly recommended)  is more performance oriented however they go for around 240/4 litres

There's also motul 8100 series although I haven't tried them out.
I have and is currently on their 300v and my god those double esters are smooth! Not cheap though at about 340/4 litres

If you're looking for insanely long oci, look no further than amsoil signature series (which I have included uoa on first page)
They go at about 180 to 200/4 litres
If you want some certification like api,  then scale down to amsoil OE series which also guarantees damn long oci as well (iinm 15k miles instead of 25k miles compared to signature series.  Yes f***ing miles not km)
Should be a bit cheaper than signature series

The R's aren't API SN certified though, and i doubt they'd put any more detergent/additives for to have the oil last.
it's as per advertised, for racing purposes, however there's always the SR5 or better racing oils so i'm assuming for the more budget conscious racers perhaps? lol.

i use xw20 or xw30 because in malaysia, there's no winter, and w is basically winter grade.
there are MINOR differences on the overall viscosity if you check the data specs, so generally i prefer to go a slow as possible, such as 0w20 instead of say 5w20.
personally i prefer to go as thin viscosity as possible (if manufacturer says xw30, i'll go 10 lower to xw20) depending on manufacturer. AFAIK Campros are either xw30 or xw40 specified, so xw20/xw30 is no problem.

SR1's (or ANY reputable full synthetics especially API SN certified ones) have absolutely NO issue on 10k km, i did 14k km or 16k km afaik (may refer to my previous posts or the ones i saved on first page)

200 ranges i believe the Motul 8100 series would qualify although i've never used them before so i can't personally comment/recommend.
the amsoil/torco SR1 all fall into your budget as well.

Filter don't last long? no problem! half way down the oci cycle you're free to change the oil filter! can diy or send to workshops paying rm10-20.
example: your oci is 20k km, at 10k km just replace the oil filter only, and top up any oil loss during the process

you pay mech rm20 also you'd STILL SAVE money in the long run as you only spent 1 time engine oil.
he tulan rm 20? go other mechanics. there's plentiful of places who'd gladly accept a quick buck for a quick oil filter replacement.
worse case? DIY.
hmm should be a typo, 350++
but then again i pretty much bought in bulk and the bill was way over 1k+ to get better pricing

From Zhapalang at kepong http://www.zhapalangmotorsport.com/2010/06/contact-us.html

Tried and tested Motul H Tech 100 + , honestly there is nothing to shout about where it degrades right after 4k km and engine is terribly rough after that.

Try and use Idemitsu fully synthetic 5w30, Syntium 5000 0w30, Total Quartz 9000 5w30 or Torco SR-1 5w30.

As for me even if i use fully syn oils, my OCI are always 5000km/3 months or maximum 7000km/5 months. Not anything longer than that.

Fyi, Proton oil filter is not that bad in terms of their quality. And usually thinner oil provides better overall lubrication and since you do not redline 24/7, there is no reason to use thicker oil. Just my dua cents 

no probs!    i'm still using stock extractor tho, only change the r3 muffler and previously was driving myvi 1.5 auto as it was family car. I would say myvi has better response due to the "drive by cable" setup as compared to drive by wire. But handling and top speed, myvi no match hahah.

Now currently on syntium 5000 0w30 by proton sc so far so and how about you? currently driving at or mt neo?

1 is API SN certified, while the other isn't and geared more towards performance/racing oil. consider it the "budget" (still not cheap lol) racing oil as opposed to their high end SR5 etc.
supposedly, the R would have better friction modifiers although may sacrifice on other additives such as detergents and the EO may deteriorate faster than the non R

may visit their website for data specs etc.

from a quick usage (used it only once for some track events) on the SR1R on my iswara back then, it seems to deteriorate around the 10k-12k km mark instead of the 12-14k+ km mark compared to the SR1
iinm i did a 10 or 12k km OCI for that SR1R

local distro here also weird, sometimes SR1 and SR1R same price, sometimes R more expensive.
from US R is more expensive lol
http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/sr-1.html 2usd more expensive

OH and i just remembered why i don't bother with the R's, thinnest viscosity is xw30, i want 0w20

local distro here also weird, sometimes SR1 and SR1R same price, sometimes R more expensive.
from US R is more expensive lol
http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/sr-1.html 2usd more expensive

OH and i just remembered why i don't bother with the R's, thinnest viscosity is xw30, i want 0w20