Jul 22 2015, 10:09 AM, updated 5y ago
V2: http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1765245
V3: http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1879901
V4: http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1950147
V5: http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2101429
V6: https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2431910
V7: https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2803442
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VW model line-up:
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(Updated: 12-Jan-2016)
Buying a USED VW? Same as purchasing any other USED car, you need to do your due diligence and take note of:
1) Engine & Gearbox reliability
2) Service & maintenance cost (average service cost per interval)
3) Common spare part due for replacement and cost alike
4) Anything that I need to take note while inspecting the car..?
1) DSG6 is more reliable than the infamous DSG7, and overall has significantly fewer problems reported. But, as with real life, there is no such thing as a completely problematic car. This unicorn does not exist. Generally, newer cars have fewer issues than older cars, but also check that the car you wish to purchase has a full and complete service history with an authorized VW service center; else you risk buying a car with voided extended warranty. Find out if any parts were changed - either from problems, or part of a factory recall. As a point of reference, cars that have had their engine/gearbox/clutch/mechatronic replaced tend to have recurring issues.
2) Expect to pay about RM400-600 for 1.2/1.4/1.6 engine variants, and you're looking around RM900-1,100 for the 2.0 engine variants. Add another RM400-800 for major service. Please note that service interval is every 15,000km (and major service at every 60,000km intervals). There are many who go for "interim" service, at their own trusted workshops. This is roughly every 7,500km and is basically an engine oil change. There are others who do not think this is necessary, especially if you are a very "regular" driver who does not push the car hard. Also note that you can also send your car in to VW for an interim service, but they tend to try to convince you to change parts -- mostly unnecessary. Always ask your service advisor for the maintenance costs chart - no secret and should be made available at all SCs.
3) Regular wear and tear parts are not difficult to source - whether original or OEM. Prices are generally slightly higher than Japanese cars. If you are resourceful and are able to source for OEM parts on your own, you look at saving some 30-50% if compared to SC. But bear in mind that there is an extensive list of items that are covered by warranty and extended warranty. It never hurts to ask.
4) With buying used, I suppose the most common items to check are to see if the car has been involved in any major accidents before (checking weld lines front and rear). Any squeaks or rattles during the test drive? How does the gearbox work at low speeds? Expect some jerking; this is a normal characteristic of any dual-clutch box. Frankly speaking, you won't be able to uncover any more potential issues with the car -- this is always a leap of faith. For example, you would not know how much engine oil the car consumes (which is a problem for some cars) from a simple test drive. And so, always keep in mind that you are buying the seller (owner or dealer) -- make sure you sort out your due diligence.
This post has been edited by r3kahsttub: Jan 12 2016, 02:25 PM
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It's about high time for us to switch our RCD or RNS510 to this baby. 
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