Introduction of Proton Saga / Iswara

The Proton Saga is the first car produced by Malaysian auto manufacturer Proton, based on the 1983 Mitsubishi Lancer Fiore. It first debuted in September 1985. The first Proton Saga that rolled off the production line was presented to the Malaysian National Museum as a symbol of the beginning of the Malaysian automotive industry.

Since then, the Proton Saga and its variants contributed to most of Proton's sales and revenues. The Saga variants are also popular among Malaysian taxi drivers and operators who need cheap vehicles with good fuel economy. The Saga is currently the longest surviving brand in a line of cars offered by Proton.

for more information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proton_Saga

Previous thread versions:


LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Drivers' Forum Rules n Regulations
Following rules are being implemented to prevent any unhappiness arise during discussion.

Rule 1:
This is not a trading thread. Any trading activities must be done in discreet. Use PM la!

Rule 2:
This is not a place for u to show off. Respect all saga/iswara driver if u doesn't own a saga/iswara but u wish to join our thread please respect all others member. Do not make statement like "This car doesn't deserve any modification". If u don't like us don't join our discussion. We also not welcome u to make any statement to show off here.

Rule 3:
All other LYN rules applied in this Forum too.

These rules and regulations has to be followed by existing and new members. Any unsatisfactory and comment please PM me and allow me to discuss with all senior members before the rule is being change or new rule being implement.

Saga / Iswara Owners List v2:


(will no longer be updated)Saga / Iswara Owners List:


Do PM me if ur name is not listed! (click here)


Useful Info/FAQ
Part Price lists
Iswara 1.3 S (M) 92-03
Iswara 1.3 LMSS 03-05
Iswara 1.3 LMST 06-08
Iswara 5 Dr Hatch 1.5 (M)
Iswara 5 Dr Hatch 1.5 (A)
Mirrors
Iswara 1.3 S (M) 92-03.pdf
Iswara 1.3 LMSS 03-05.pdf
Iswara 1.3 Special Edition LMST 06-08
Iswara 5 Dr Hatch 1.5 (M).pdf
Iswara 5 Dr Hatch 1.5 (A).pdf

4G1x Engine manuals
http://www.mivec.co.nz/tech/4G1x_Engine_Manual.pdf
http://mitsu.ro/docs/Colt-91-95/workshop_manual.pdf

Valve clearance adjustment
<SOHC 12 valve>
(refer the engine manual link above, 1st one)
Standard value on cold engine:
intake 0.09mm
exhaust 0.17mm
Standard value on hot engine(this should be the value shown on your car/chassis sticker):
intake 0.20mm
exhaust 0.25mm
Ok confirmed, adjust on hot, not cold http://twitpic.com/dj0n77

4g13/4g15 Engine Oil capacity?
3.3-3.6 liters (fill it between the low and high lines/level of the dip stick, do NOT overfill)
Manual officially states 3.5 liters

Manual gear box capacity?
~1.8 liter, fill to full basically
same as per manual statement
Hypoid gear oil, use Petronas GL4SAE80 or equivalent; API classification GL-4 or higher, SAE viscosity no. 75w90


ATF capacity?
~2.5-3 liter on regular OCI/drains (after filling, check based on cold level, and monitor at hot level not exceeding the last line/level)
~4.5-5.5 liter for full drain (removing oil sump/atf filter, draining from torque converter)
Manual officially states 5.8 liters
Use only Dextron III, Mitsubishi or Proton SPIII specifications

~8 liter for flushing

Coolant capacity?
~4-5 liters depending on flushing/reservoir drain
Manual officially states 5 liters including the 0.65 liters in the reservoir tank

*Service intervals*

1. Engine oil - Every 5,000km - 12,000km or 3 - 6 months whichever first depending on which EO used
2. Oil filter - every 5k km - 6k km or 3-6 months whichever first MUST replace regardless of which EO used
3. Spark Plugs - Every 20,000km (copper), some spark plugs last up to 100,000km but if your engine is a bit screwed up then invest in a normal spark plug and change more often will do. spark plugs time period not really needed, best if you just periodically take it out and inspect accordingly.
4. Transmission Oil - 40,000km or 2 years whichever first (manual) | 20,000km or 1 year whichever first (auto)
   this can be a bit flexible, general rule of thumb is that if you're using damn good full synthetic transmission oil, you may opt for longer OCI, and if you feel that shifting is no longer smooth/crisp, have weird judder/kicks from auto transmission, then consider replacing the oil sooner/immediately.
5. Timing belt Kits - Every 80,000km / 3 years
6. Water Pump - advisable to change it together during every timing kit change
7. Radiator Flushing - if you're using good long life coolant and distilled water at 50:50 ratio, you can do it every 40k km or 2 years or so, and the next one will be during your timing belt/water pump replacement
8. brake fluid flushing: whenever the brake fluid turns to kopi ais (don't wait until it's pitch black kopi o please lol, sludge will form)
   brake bleeding: whenever you feed that your brake is uneven (Eg: pulling 1 side upon brake) or if it is spongy, or your stopping power seems compromised
   also do check on brake pad uneven wear too
   brakes fluids in general you may practice 20k km or 1 year, although do note that brake fluid are hygroscopic, so even if your car is low mileage, the fluids lifespan is still ticking. for decent quality brake fluid and if you're not a spirited driver with hard braking, 1 year is a decent guideline. however if you brake hard, using DOT5.1 or racing/super DOT4 brake fluids with much higher temperature threshold, you may need to replace the brake fluid sooner.
9. Brake Pads (Front) - Check during every service so you get to know when you should standby
10. brake shoe (rear) similar to front pads (and they usually last at least 2x longer compared to front pads), however do service it once a while (maybe every 20k km or so ) as the brake shoe dust will accumulate and overtime it may cause jam in the brake pump which would cost a bit to replace.
    yes i know it's cheap, but opening up the drum and blowing/sweeping/cleaning off the excess dust will prolong the brake pump's life a LOT

non critical components

1. for air cond (full service includes replacing drier, cleaning the internals and then vacuuming pressure and re-gas etc), power steering oil/fluid, 40k km or 2 years whichever first.
2. power steering oil 40k km or 2 years whichever first, or when you feel that the steering is no longer turning smoothly especially during standstill, or if the power steering pump is having squeaking/whining noises.
3. alternator service (the bushes/carbon thingies) are typically done once every few years, only if the charge is low and causing the battery not able to charge properly. (under 14.4 volts in general, or heavy fluctuations on voltage)
4. Throttle body/Carburetor cleaning/de-carbon between every 20k km to 40k km, or 1 year to 2 year whichever comes first, according to your budget or when you feel that your throttle response/acceleration is not smooth.

Carburetor mechanical fuel pump
Should check it out if suspect fuel delivery issues
Pricing is around rm160 for original proton (to be confirmed)

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=64185235


references:
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1549104/all
http://www.acksfaq.com/mechanical_fuel_pump.htm

Tail lamp assembly:
from:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=68372366
to:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=68550245
Basically loosen 3 nuts and lot of strength to pry the light which is stucked fast to the body.


pm/post on the thread for more useful infos/FAQs to add


Tyre & Rim Info
1) PCD
-> stands for pitch circle diameter, numbers of bolts on the wheel
-> got a few PCD types: 100 (eg: wira, honda), 114.3 (eg: saga iswara, satria neo), 110 (kancil), etc.


2) Offset
-> distance from the center of the rim to the attaching disk part
-> normally can be adjusted using spacer


3) Spacer
-> a round piece of metal that has holes on it, the function is to avoid/adjust the wheel from rubbing the arch/fender
-> got few sizes/thickness
-> if u r using 8 holes rim sure need to add spacer on the front

4) 14" or 15"
-> i prefer 15" bcoz 14" less choices for performance tires

5) Best PCD and offset
-> 114.3 and 38-40 (need check with sifoo..)


Credit goes to: Killer


Warranty FAQs
could be very outdated/irrelevant, do pm me if any of you members have new saga/iswara or new information regarding proton warranty, thanks.


5. Is it important to use genuine parts?

Yes, it is important that you use PROTON genuine parts and accessories.

This will ensure that the original vehicle specifications are maintained and that the replacement parts meet the same high standards as the vehicle original equipments. This will also ensure the vehicle compliance to the government regulations relating to vehicle safety and environmental controls. The use of parts that do not conform to the correct specification may cause damage to the vehicle and could also invalidate the terms of the warranty.

credit goes to Kevin

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jul 29 2015, 05:50 PM

USUAL PERFORMANCE UPGRADE FOR SAGA/ISWARA

Intake
1. High Flow Open Pod (from rm50 onwards) or Drop In Air Filters K&N over rm250-300ish, there are other cheaper reusable drop ins, however performance gains subjective
2. Due to the bad placing of the stock air intake resulting in hot air being sucked, it is recommended to add a Cold Air Intake. Various types of hose available for this DIY upgrade. Position the intake in front of the radiator, and you will definitely gain valuable power and better the fuel consumption!

Exhaust
4-2-1 Tuned Length Extractor (from rm400 onwards) for high exhaust flow with minimal restriction & power increase. Use cap ayam brand and you will end up with power loss instead.

Ignition
1. Performance spark plug cable (from rm50 onwards). Recommended brands are the like of RAM and Pro Rallye. They say thick cables produce bigger spark which results in better combustion=more power=better fuel consumption. Some reported radio interference. However most enthusiast remain skeptic and stuck with the stock plug cable. So you decide.
2. Side gapped spark plug. This is a cheap performance upgrade. Your standard spark plug's electrode is shaved away to provide a bigger 'open' spark. It is also recommended to 'index' the spark plug so that when it's plugged in, the spark area will directly face the combustion chamber. Downside is, the plug will not last as long. Again, most enthusiast remain skeptic. http://performanceunlimited.com/documents/...idegapping.html

Engine
1. Port & Polish Engine Head (from rm400~rm1500). Smoothen the rough internals for better air/exhaust flow & power increase.
2. High Performance Camshafts (from rm600~rm1500). Modified camshafts profile can ensure more air-fuel mixture to reach the cylinder at the correct timing resulting in horsepower & torque increase.
3. Lightened Crank Pulley (from rm200~rm650). Release loss horsepower due to heavy stock crank pulley. Better acceleration and fuel consumption. Revs drop faster though. Enthusiasts are still arguing about rubber dampened (Mythelogy ones, expensive and rare these days) or non-dampened crank pulley. Again, you decide.

Handling
1. Suspension (from rm500~RM2000). Depending on your budget and liking, you can opt for sports short stroke absorber coupled with sports spring or go for semi-adjustable absorbers. Be aware that this upgrade will cause uncomfortable ride. Brands like APM Performax cost about rm500 while adjustables from GAB or Improve will set you back about rm1500.
Note from TS (Quazacolt):
German made H&R progressive lowered springs are one of the best springs to go for if you don't want to go for adjustable, yet want sport/snappier handling without sacrificing too much on comfort.
Do check with speedzone motorsport (at batu caves) as they are the distributor for H&R https://www.facebook.com/speedzonemotorsport
2. Chassis Stiffening Bars (from rm150 onwards). Front stabiliser bar, fender bars, lower arm bar, rear strut bar, etc will help the car reduce its flex during heavy corners and help the suspension keep the tires planted to the tarmac. The more bar installed, the more solid the ride. Not to mention they will add to the weight as well.
Note from TS (Quazacolt): the best bars to go for our saga/iswara would be rear anti roll bar, then followed by front strut bar and fender bars. these 3 are the bare minimum for a substantial ride handling upgrade. Do bear in mind that that aforementioned FSB and Rear-ARB requires welding, so best to go to a reputable installer (eg: ultra racing HQ directly) to purchase and install your chassis stiffening bars.

Brakes
1. Double Layer Brake Servo (from rm100 onwards) - This half cut item is popular among enthusiasts. A great help to improve stopping power. However idling will be a bit rough. Sourced from VR4, Pajero or Honda SM4.
2. High-Temp Brake Pads (from rm120 onwards) - Higher temperature handling will avoid the risk of fading brakes during aggressive or mountain driving. At the moment, Rapid Stop pads is the way to go.
Note from TS (Quazacolt): RS pads are very dusty, so if you're like me who absolutely HATES brake dusts, and yet want good stopping performance, do consider EBC greenstuff. price can range from rm250-330 depending if you're self importing or getting from official distributor pentagon. It IS VERY expensive, however the performance, and low dust is very much proven.

Featured Cars

Monster ride in this thread; the_catacombs 's ride (aka SkYwAlKeR)


Uranus Foo


rozz_1291


yewwing


Member's Ride(hidden monster non monster)

Kevin's LMST

Few member's ride compiled together


shiinkuro31's ride

eXpert

Gilbert5107

Shawnzz

Zhixin


rozz_1291's ex ride

godspeeds

sjz

ronaldet


sinister_sid

Shafique

juniorkirk

Chan320

GMS FearLess

Notoriez

dakwan

stasis21

n3w

fleekreturn

Peekab0o

Quazacolt (current TS)
http://twitpic.com/cwd0ax

Members Engine Bay:

the_catacombs:


Twin DCOE:


wkho555's DGAV:


Siapa punya???


andychan:


Uranus Foo's 4G93T monster powered by microtech!


rozz_1291's ex engine bay:


rozz_1291's 4G61 Factory stock


TS Quazacolt's 4G15 3 speed auto Factory stock
with KNN carburetor drop in air filter and ultra racing front strut bar
https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/CyKB5ydmFS8

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Nov 9 2014, 09:45 PM

MOTORSPORTS

Videos
Quazacolt



rozz_1291


Pictures
Here is a small teaser of rozz_1291 car performing in a small time attack challenge at our local track in USJ.


Here is another old SIE forumer @Notoriez Saga LMST 4throttle Weber:


@sinister_sid with his stock 1989 Perawan Saga 1.5


@Gilbert5107 4G15 EFI


@yewwing a.k.a iron leg with his Iswara 4G13 Weber


@the_catacombs


@Shawnzz (Red Iswara Aeroback) and @dopeisgood (Silver Sedan)


Hope to see more SagaIswara members her join Open Trackdays, TimeAttacks and other events in the near future. Keep up the spirit and be proud of what you drive


PHEW finally done editing everything and restoring all the old members pictures (nostalgia man)
huge thanks to rozz_1291 and Peekab0o for your previous work

Hopefully all the existing owners can continue being active and even if your saga/iswara is retired you're still more than welcome to share your experiences/advises

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Nov 9 2014, 09:40 PM

front seat, reporting in

that;s cool

i still need these info for my reference... hahaha...

Yes still using. Thanks.

thank you instead for all the contributions

Did you miss out the side indicators (turn signals on the
wheel fender panels) ? High beam indicator quantity is 1.

The rest, in my opinion covers all the bulbs in the Iswara.
(I presume no LED substitute yet for headlamp bulbs).

The instrument cluster low-fuel indicator bulb seems different
from other warning lamps, see photo from internet. Maybe need to
confirm this.

I am not familiar with the LED substitutes, so unable to comment on the
the correctness of the specifications.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Oh yeap, the side indicators are also T10 (I had already installed them and that's why they're off the list )

Overheating problems have many causes, as shown by the attached pages.
You need to narrow down the cause:

1) Does the 4th bar appear at all speeds, low speeds, idling etc?
How about on the highway?

2) Next morning, before starting engine, open the radiator cap. Is
the coolant filled up to the cap, or is it below the neck?
Are there rust particles floating in the coolant? Is there any
oil mixed with water, fuel/exhaust smell?

3) Close the cap, run the engine, and observe the radiator fan action against
the temperature indicator. At what bar it starts, and is the fan speed
strong or weak? The fan must run on and off cycles within the 3rd bar.
Look around the hose connections for leaks. Is coolant leaking under
the engine (possibly from the core plugs?)

4) Look at the water pump pulley - any slippage (screeching noise)?

5) Did you use tap water for the coolant ? Did you add the additive/chemcials
for corrosion protection?

6) Pull out the engine oil dipstick, is there any creamy brown contamination
of the engine oil?

This post has been edited by Albert B: Dec 1 2014, 01:38 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

Congrats for V28

Vroom vroom V28. Car is still on mod for security.

No 9 - Low Fuel Warning light is T10 bulb, not T5. Must include twist lock base also. Confirmed because I've done some DIY . Mostly this list is correct.



The bulb with twist socket



Dome lamp & trunk light also has a different size. I don't know the size correctly. Later I update.

[update for dome lamp and trunk light]



Left : Trunk light. I've found the LED equivalent for this bulb at Brothers Seksyen 20 Shah Alam. Price about RM13.
Right : Dome light. Still haven't found the LED equivalent size for it.

This post has been edited by jondankawan: Dec 5 2014, 07:06 PM

Does anyone owned 4g61t standard engine? Non modi? I want to know the fuel consumption or normal driving at town and highway..i think want to buy one if the fuel is economy

unless you can discipline your right foot a lot, chances are you're not going to get improvement in fc.

additionally, turbos in the past was aimed solely at increasing horsepower over fuel economy. might want to bear that in mind.

yeah bear in very much in mind.

Thanks alot for the reply, I will troubleshoot one by one .

Any recommended speaker for my lmst?
Recently my speaker like dying already
Got anything below rm100 or nt?lol
I m nt an audiophile but i do enjoy music :-)

i saw in lelong... Sony speaker only RM96

http://www.lelong.com.my/original-sony-xpl...7-01-Sale-I.htm

This post has been edited by myroy: Dec 2 2014, 11:51 PM

If got budget can buy a branded one..Found one Pioneer brand cost around RM150:)

New thread already~~
Is this normal?? Under gearbox area


Attached thumbnail(s)

Any oil dripping down?

Recently i change my exhaust system at exss workshop genting klang. Great performance and give low fc.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Check the upper portion of your engine/gearbox to see if there are signs of oil leaks.

Old cars will have this kind of leaks as the seals/gaskets deteriorate. Iswaras
are old enough for this to happen.

Seals on upper part can be replaced as a minor job, which could be done quickly
at the workshop. If it is from crankshaft seal, the replacement require removal
of the gearbox. If you want to wait for a clutch job to do the seals, you could
check oil level and top-up in the meantime.

(not sure if the leak could be from the transmission which is difficult to
check/top-up for DIY).

Hi Guys,

Been missing from here for sometime now...

Got a question that needs clarification for my Saga 12V MegaValve 4G15.

The Original Brake Servo has finally decided to give up... (still working but need to press twice to brake) so I am planning to do a double layer servo upgrade... I understand that there are a lot of servos that can be used in the Saga, such as vr4, sm4, perdana, pajero, nissan.

Questions are...

1. which one is better?

2. any modifications required or will it be a perfect fit?

3. can Evo 1,2,3 servo fit the saga?

Thanks for the assist guys

Basically are is good.

When u go to half cut shop, said u want to use it on your iswara. They will have some option for u to choose.

Is plug and play.

I am using Nissan double layer.

If u still want to use back original servo, i still have it at my home

Evo servo can fit into iswara

Currently using Mitsubishi Galant Vr4 Double Layer Servo so far no problem. + Bosch dot 4 + Bosch rotor + Bendix pad. Basically just plug and play.

Hello guys, a question regarding aftermarket camshaft here. Totally newbie on this stuff

Jasma Cam 270 intake ; 275 exhaust

1. Will it be fine on efi engine? (any rough idling)

2. Is it reliable ? ; do i need to change my valve spring? ; do i really need a aftermarket cam pulley?

3. What thing/clue to look out for when inspecting it. exp; how to know if it's been used before.

quoted by for RM 200 since the owner just doing spring cleaning hence why im tempted to buy it. (new set as claimed by him)

Thank you for your time.

I am curious to know, did the seller specify what kind of performance
would be expected using this camshaft, any side effects?

A member of this forum changed to HIGHCAM (not sure if same as your proposed one)
and reported sluggish acceleration below 3,000 rpm, but good acceleration above it,
see:

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69038665

Attached below are pages from a book on this issue, which more-or-less explains
what this member experienced with the performance cam.

It would be interesting to hear from other members' experience too.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Really appreciate your reply Sir.

Actually seller didn't specifically specified any side effect on using this . He just told me it is doable and plug and play item.

It's a good thing that i didn't rush to just simply buy it at the first place. Thank you for pointing out the issue.

Will like to hear also from others.

After some research and looking around I've found the perfect cover for the rear wiper hole at the back bonnet for my Iswara Aeroback. What a relief



RM7 at Hingan Auto Parts in Jalan Sungei Besi, KL. It's plug and play. Done some leak test and no water seeping in.

when engine is idle, accelerate and aircond is ON the aircond belt emitted scratching sound. Izzit problem from bearing pulley ?

This post has been edited by langatian: Dec 6 2014, 01:03 AM

Planned to change my engine

4G91 is expensive and my mechanic said saga not suitable for the engine because body is light...

Buying wira 4G15 for 1.2k 2nd hand...it is okay?worth it?

I think I need to check it properly.. Coz no oil drop under car, top overhaul almost year ago, top engine oil cap change new.. Sometime the oil decrease after 2 weeks..

If there are no leaks from the top portion (includung the distributor)
I suspect the crankshft rear end seal or flywheel seal.

The work required is expected to be like described here:
http://tacra.blogspot.com/2012/03/oil-seal-flywheel.html
At the same time, might as well change the clutch, if not already
changed.


Attached thumbnail(s)

I looked up on aftermarket camshafts and found that the specifications
are categorised into 5 choices according to driver's preference,
see table. Not sure how the local suppliers specify the camshafts.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Most of the time?

Or only during cold times?

Thank you again for the additional info . Will likely refer to 4G1series in fb ; more traffic there.

Most of the time. If driving in high speed or accelerate the sound become louder.

1. It's the bearing that keeps tension on the belt, last time I kena also... RM 20 only for cheap brand and RM 40 for good one. (without upah pasang)

2. it could also be that your belt already makan...

all in all, parts only around RM 50. direct from spareparts shop. if you go workshop, sure the belt already RM 68... they want to untung also ma..

1. the name of the parts? i scare to mistakenly spell it.

2. for the belt, i just changed to the new one last 2 weeks.

I have tried Jasma one, Pipercam one, before finally settling on a custom matspeed one. Overall jasma and pipe not much difference, piper feels better at higher rpm but jasma has better midrange power. But different intake and exhaust setup will yield different results.

No harm trying the jasma one. Get an adjustable pulley and advance slightly.. definitely can feel difference over stock cam.

good question, I don't remember... but it's a bearing on it's own (you can see it clearly) hanging out on a piece of metal stick which is adjustable for the belt tensioning.

looks like this (the shiny metal piece), but note this is for the new saga blm, not the old one... but the sit at the same place.





This post has been edited by celicaizpower: Dec 8 2014, 01:39 PM

yes. the sound came from that bearing that you shown. Are you sure the price is around RM50?

This post has been edited by langatian: Dec 8 2014, 04:15 PM

"V belt tensioner assembly"," V belt tensioner pulley "...


Attached thumbnail(s)

RM 20 china, RM 40 japan. Installation RM 10. last I fix that for my Old Saga Megavalve was about 1 year ++ ago.

btw, which saga you using?

for BLM correct naming, for Old Saga they just call belt tensioner bearing

i wouldnt bother with anything jasma

is the belt tensioner giving the belt proper tension so it doesn't slack/slip?
how old is the belt and/or if it is having cracking conditions?

consider trying some candle wax on the air cond belt to recondition it which helps a little

1999 Saga Iswara.

no problem for the belt because i just replaced it last 2 weeks.

i will try to use candle wax first.

ok, then same price. any other price than that... means you kena kencing.

i will try not to kena kencing

try to find original part if available.

a LOT more expensive, however can save you a lot of trouble/time consumption if you got lemons (which is drastically reduced for original parts compared to aftermarket parts)

True, but sadly a lot of original packing nowadays which are cloned parts...

I would normally ask for Mitsubishi or High Quality Made in Japan parts rather than China/Taiwan/OEM (not because they are not good, but afraid to kena clone).

Unless you go get directly at Proton Parts Glenmarie. then sure 100% original.

agreed. i bought oil filter for RM6 each. izzit non genuine oil filter?

proton oil filters are around rm10 for single piece/SC/part center glenmarie pricing

if you buy in bulk like a row of 12 (iinm) and from outside official stockists, they can go as low as rm7-9 per piece.

6 seems a bit on the low side especially if it is single piece, maybe you can check it again by lifting the car and inspecting the oil filter.
Iswara oil filters are still using the bigger sized type will all the proton logo/part number (starts with PW then numbers) printed on it clearly.

a bit too cheap for original.

I use K&N oil filter about RM 50 each from speedwork... there is 2 models, 1 model you will need to change on the next oil change and the other is re-usable (can clean), been using it for sometime now.

Prior to using K&N, I was using Bosch. easily can get from any Bosch shop for about 10 bucks.

Hi,

Does anybody have any knowledge about the two "plugs" in the picture?




Attached thumbnail(s)

could be wrong, but looks like plugs for bulbs?

Water proof connector for the horn?

This post has been edited by Albert B: Dec 10 2014, 01:20 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

Yes, I would have to say so! The original horn was faulty and the replacement horn is now sitting on the RH behind the front bumper.

oh my horn already aftermarket so i think my connectors were modified

wow, looks like Albert knows his car well. Seems like he diy repair his car more often than sending it to mechanics. haha

i mainly send to mechanics only

but yea having the service manual can get you very far

Just went to parts centre at glenmarie yesterday. Iswara oil filter sell there is more bigger than i fitted in my engine. I inspect the my filter and dont seem any oil leaks.

but oil filter is rm12

how much was yoursS ??

You sure you send your car to mech mostly? hehe

Guys, what if iswara install 195/50/15 tires with 7jj wheels, will it sagat/ hit rear fender when i lowered my ride?
It seems there are more 7jj rims for 15" than 6.5jj rims and not much choices for pcd 114.3.

Plan to lower my ride with stock abs mate with apm performax lowered sport spring and install 15" rims.

This post has been edited by fishncatz: Dec 11 2014, 08:57 PM

yes i do... thankfully most of my mechs/workshops etc are good friends and they don't outright chop me.
in return i always go back to them for business

personally wouldn't recommend 15" for saga iswara unless you fender roll and/or serious on motorsports.
sticking to stock 13/14" is way more economical in every sense.

also would advise against lowering rides unless you're damn sure on what you're doing
too much troubles/cons over benefit.

if you're into looks, by all means go ahead but bear in mind, looks != practical.
and personally i'm more of a practical person.

For the lowered spring part, i'm still doubting to install it as the crossmember is already quite low. I scrape it few times already and it really breaks my heart. so might as well not installing it.

As for the wheels part, i opt for the 15" as there are more tires choices over 14". My rear tires reaching 55% of botakness while the front still got 70%. There are 2 tires that in my mind currently which are C.Drive 2, Ventus v2 Concept 2 and parada spec 2.

What's your review on C. Drive 2 that your iswara currently wearing?

that's why best not to lower the car.

and c drive 2 is available for 14"
14" is more than enough for tire choices especially if you're not intending on driving fast/motorsports.
in fact most of the eco based LRR (low rolling resistance) tires are on 13-16" only.

love c drive 2 in pretty much every aspect, only downside is probably the higher than average pricing.

im using 15". tyres are 195/50/r15

would against anyone who frequently ferry people at the back seat as it will touch the fenders when there's uneven or bumpy road unless put coil spring buffer.

if you're always driving alone, then it's ok.

Was on 15x7 recently (with about 1/4 in. spacer, not exactly sure thickness of spacer). Used it for about 1 month before got sick of all the scraping here and there. Traded in the rims and tyres for 13" original rims and tyres.


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Just rm6 per piece.

Wow, you are so brave by installing 7jj wheels and installed spacer. Bet you are using 8 hole rims. Hehe. My initial idea was lower it and install 6.5jj 4 hole rims. But since quaza ady mention practicality, so I ditch the lowering part and might move on with installing 15" wheels.

if you're not into performance, save yourself the headache/cost on 15" (rims also la) la lol.