Hi, need help! I diy'ed carb tuning, adjust like 20 degrees anti clockwise to eliminate pinging after tuned by my mech.

After 5 minutes, i try back to start.....engine cranks but won't start! I turned back the carb mixture back to where it was, i marked the ori position. Please help me! Thnx!

This post has been edited by zedyll: Jan 29 2015, 12:02 AM

U sure ur magician got change your klac cover anot? Magician veli panai 1, go change the klac pad, plonk back then call it a day geh. Many have that kinda practice

Petrol habish?

I managed to start the car luckily. I searched on the net, it was due to flooding of the carb.

I Would like to know what are those vaume hoses connected to and what is it for? the one with stars

thermostatic vacuum switching valve (TVSV)
Bimetal Vacuum Switching Valve (BVSV)
I tried to trace the hoses too, one should be to intake manifold for vacuum, the rest I think to the carb or the distributor.... not sure

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jan 29 2015, 05:41 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

Wastegate actuator
Hydraulic pump pressure relase valve
Turbo pressure hose



I wish

Hello guys, need an opinion on an issues ;

1. My drive shaft is starting to give problem ; did change boot cover on time .

Headache now is my inner side shaft is using wira while outer side is using saga/iswara .

Workshop advise me to change gear box so that the the "teeth" is the same . Any opinion?

2. Got an offer for a friend selling his UR bar ; strut , fender , room bar ,rear upper, rear trunk and axle for RM 500 . Is it worthy? any experience using this sort of stuff?

Hope to hear a reply. Any feedback is helpful

1. If no problem, why need to change leh? Even if change, change the draisab mai more ekonomikal den change gebox ar?

2. Fai7tit bai lor. Axle along ady cost you more than RM500

thx for this info for now i dont know where is the issue when the EGR Start the car idle so poorly i think its stuck open and also hear wheezing sound comming from carburator area i check all hoses but no leak any suggestion?

1. thinking of the same thing too.


2. Ok. After googling the function of 'bar' ; understood abit. Have a doubt about the 'Rear Sway Bar' .

He say this bar bracket was welded . ( Bar memang ikat skru kat tapak, tapak tu yang weld ).

Does he mean that i have to make a new housing / bracket at my axle is it?

Again thanks for taking time to reply.

The rear ULARCACING sway bar is french dish 多塊魚, lebih sangat. Originally our axle already have a piece of anti roll bar attached BEHIND the axle where can't be seen. As a BRAND, they go to an extend to ask their customer to spot weld on their axle to make a mounting point, just to hook their so called EXTRA sway bar on an already not so flexible rear axle Trust me, I'll still take it, probably not using it but to resell it at RM300 Including the front strut tower bar. Sad enough, our car front part is not ordinary Macpherson style, it's more like race car type of coil overs but without castor adjustment only So the sad part will be, there's no place to mount a STRUT BAR unless remove the strut mounting and plonk a strut bar before attach absorber and spring mounting. So again, the well known BRANDED company make their job easy, ask installer to sendiri spot welding on the chassis to make a mounting point, so they can put their strut bar on it Ask me, yes I'll take it. Gonna sell it to others for RM100

I use. TIGALAMPAU! Hard to install lar , but rather not to spot weld my engine bay

The rear ULARCACING sway bar is french dish 多塊魚, lebih sangat. Originally our axle already have a piece of anti roll bar attached BEHIND the axle where can't be seen. As a BRAND, they go to an extend to ask their customer to spot weld on their axle to make a mounting point, just to hook their so called EXTRA sway bar on an already not so flexible rear axle Trust me, I'll still take it, probably not using it but to resell it at RM300 Including the front strut tower bar. Sad enough, our car front part is not ordinary Macpherson style, it's more like race car type of coil overs but without castor adjustment only So the sad part will be, there's no place to mount a STRUT BAR unless remove the strut mounting and plonk a strut bar before attach absorber and spring mounting. So again, the well known BRANDED company make their job easy, ask installer to sendiri spot welding on the chassis to make a mounting point, so they can put their strut bar on it Ask me, yes I'll take it. Gonna sell it to others for RM100

I use. TIGALAMPAU! Hard to install lar , but rather not to spot weld my engine bay


Was thinking pnp and just screw . Don't really like the idea of weld spot to body.

As you say might as well take it and sell at a reasonable price.

if you're not serious of handling/risk making handling worse, forget about any bars.

alternatively if you're in KL, my car does have *most* of the bars installed and you're welcome to try how it's like before making a final decision.

sadly, can't install on mine

But i got most of the bar installed wo...

matter of perception/preference

i do like some of the bars, not all though.
Rear ARB and front strut that requires welded brackets for example.

granted, the rear arb does have its uses, however for most drivers, they are better off without it.

On a side note: my new inspira, only ori Mitsubishi front strut enough.

Personally, i like side bar, mid lower, fender bar, room bar, rear strut, and front ARB (not forget the sangkar guling)

hmm the only bars i like are probably the side and fender bars

Try the room bar plis You're gonna get a huge surprise how well the car handle even if that piece of metal is not related to handling at all