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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!

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ca2n
post Dec 1 2014, 01:08 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Dec 1 2014, 12:07 PM)
Did you miss out the side indicators (turn signals on the
wheel fender panels) ? High beam indicator quantity is 1.

The rest, in my opinion covers all the bulbs in the Iswara.
(I presume no LED substitute yet for headlamp bulbs).

The instrument cluster low-fuel indicator bulb seems different
from other warning lamps, see photo from internet. Maybe need to
confirm this.

I am not familiar with the LED substitutes, so unable to comment on the
the correctness of the specifications.
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Oh yeap, the side indicators are also T10 (I had already installed them and that's why they're off the list tongue.gif )
ca2n
post Dec 10 2014, 09:28 AM

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Hi,

Does anybody have any knowledge about the two "plugs" in the picture?




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ca2n
post Dec 10 2014, 01:23 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Dec 10 2014, 01:11 PM)
Water proof connector for the horn?
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Yes, I would have to say so! The original horn was faulty and the replacement horn is now sitting on the RH behind the front bumper. rclxms.gif
ca2n
post Dec 12 2014, 09:46 AM

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QUOTE(fishncatz @ Dec 11 2014, 08:56 PM)
You sure you send your car to mech mostly? hehe

Guys, what if iswara install 195/50/15 tires with 7jj wheels, will it sagat/ hit rear fender when i lowered my ride?
It seems there are more 7jj rims for 15" than 6.5jj rims and not much choices for pcd 114.3.

Plan to lower my ride with stock abs mate with apm performax lowered sport spring and install 15" rims.
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Was on 15x7 recently (with about 1/4 in. spacer, not exactly sure thickness of spacer). Used it for about 1 month before got sick of all the scraping here and there. Traded in the rims and tyres for 13" original rims and tyres. thumbup.gif


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ca2n
post Jan 1 2015, 08:54 PM

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Any cool 4G15 wire tuck projects amongst us here? Care to share some of the pics? rclxms.gif



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ca2n
post Jan 6 2015, 06:56 PM

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Air-cond compressor refusing to kick in cry.gif

It started happening a few weeks ago. At that time, one push of the air-cond switch wouldn't necessarily get the compressor running (the fan blew just fine, albeit warm air coming out of the vents). A means of rectifying it would be to turn the air-cond switch on and off again, sometimes repeatedly until the compressor decided to run. And, when it did decide to run, air-cond was cool as usual. However, sometimes the compressor did cut-off and didn't cut back in again. And the repeated on-off process was repeated.

Today, it just plainly refused to turn on at all, despite numerous on-off attempts at the air-cond switch. Anybody have any ideas on what's wrong? sad.gif
ca2n
post Jan 7 2015, 11:35 AM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jan 7 2015, 10:16 AM)
Quick question, how many of you guys still having the stock door locks actuators(the door lock motor on each door with center locking system on the alarm module) in the car until today?

Another question, if rosaked, will you go back buy Plotong original which cost an arm and leg? Or modify aftermarket universal fitted actuator?

Have you ever consider, whether the original lock actuator can be repaired/serviced?
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15-year-old Iswara. Rear actuators and driver's side actuator changed to Proton original actuators. Font passenger actuator original from factory. biggrin.gif

p/s: All 3 original actuators are still in possession. Haven't had the chance yet to get them back to working condition (if at all possible).
ca2n
post Feb 11 2015, 11:52 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 15 2015, 06:05 PM)
I actually had this problem too, exactly as you described. Sound like the door or seats.

I removed the seats, oiled the metal rods/springs, padded the contact surfaces of the bodywork, could not trace where exactly is problem. Opened the door paneling and checked - found nothing. Sprayed lubricant on where the rear springs meet the suspension parts. Still the sound persists.

I suspect the rear axle. Was thinking of listening to the outside through open window.

Then after a couple of months the sound mysteriously disappeared - all was quiet again.

===edit===
For my case, the sound developed immediately after I replaced the exhaust muffler & piping due to corrosion holes. So I thought the sound was from the exhaust system brackets, but I shook the thing hoping to get sound, but it was quiet.
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I'm also facing the same problem currently. I had my wife drive the car while I sat at the rear passenger seat (LH). She drove on uneven roads and I opened the door poking my head outside the car to listen for the source of the noise. No clue.

Through my observations, I can quite safely conclude on the following regarding the issue:

1. Noise appears when the rear seat is loaded. The bigger the load, the more prone it is for the noise to appear.

2. Noise appears as the ambient temperature is warmer. Hotter day, easier for the noise to appear. Made worse when the rear seats are loaded.

I typically have no issues when driving alone in the car. If I had to make an educated guess, I would have to say it has something to do with the body itself. I inspected the spot welds behind the rear seats and saw that some of them had let go. I'm wondering whether that maybe the cause of it. At one particular time, one of the broken spot welds was the cause of a "squeaking" sound; I spread the joined parts apart and the noise disappeared. Worst of all however, (see attachment), I fear something might be breaking loose even more...


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ca2n
post Feb 13 2015, 12:47 AM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Feb 12 2015, 05:45 AM)
My experience tells me your car was involved in an extremely bad accident before. By the look of it, the C pillar has been compressed and heat treated in order to pull it back out. Looking at the wavy metallic painted surface, suggest that was patching of silicone/fibre putty. Edge of the rear windscreen sealant shows the rear windscreen may be changed/not factory fitted. The crack you shown, may not be a sign of metal fatigue, high chance it was a putty crack in my opinion. I do believe, if it's a metal crack, the fatigue site would have shown enormous of rust trails.

Regardless ayam right or wrong, please do send your car to bodyshop for checking. It is very dangerous if it really is a metal fatigue. Your car could goes disintegrated while you're driving. Endanger your life, your other occupants and other road user's life as well.

user posted image
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Yup, you're right. My car was rear-ended by a W124 about 8 years ago. W124 was probably going at 60 km/h. I was at 0 km/h parked at the side of the road. I was beside the car and saw everything happen thinking it was a dream... cry.gif

Anyway, car went in for body repairs. And the crack is definitely fibre. What I'm implying is that the metal part underneath the fibre must be undergoing a substantial degree of flexing for it to have effect on the fibre above. I was thinking about installing the UR upper room bar to see if the noise is mitigated.

While we're at that, can anybody recommend a reputable body shop? Ones that may entertain some additional spot-welding structure enhancement and not just spray and lacquer? I sent in my car for a full body spray in USJ 1 a few years back and judging by the quality you see in the photos, well....
ca2n
post Feb 18 2015, 12:45 PM

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QUOTE(zedyll @ Feb 17 2015, 01:56 AM)

user posted image
Would de-greasing the distributor and hosing it down with water jet be advisable? Opinions? hmm.gif
ca2n
post Feb 18 2015, 01:59 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Feb 18 2015, 01:40 PM)
From my experience, it is not advisable to hose down the distributor unless you can remove all the moisture afterwards. When I washed the engine compartment, the moisture somehow found its way inside the distributor and the next morning, after a few kms, the moisture evaporated and moved around inside and shorted, resulting in engine stalling. 15,000 volts can easily find the moisture as short cut.
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Good to know! rclxms.gif
ca2n
post Feb 27 2015, 12:41 PM

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QUOTE(allenultra @ Feb 26 2015, 08:47 PM)
As you like.
There are hosted on my dropbox anyway.

Iswara 5 Dr Hatch 1.5 (A)
Iswara 5 Dr Hatch 1.5 (M)
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Thanks!!! rclxm9.gif rclxm9.gif rclxm9.gif

p/s: 27k for...? :: faint ::
ca2n
post Mar 19 2015, 06:32 PM

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So, I just had a go at H2O decarbonizing. Felt no difference before and after. Anybody here had any success?
ca2n
post May 11 2015, 11:08 PM

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QUOTE(limap5 @ May 10 2015, 04:58 AM)
Hello there, my 2000 carb Iswara has a problem when starting the engine coldly. The RPM shoots to 2-3k for approx. 5 minutes and then return to normal at 1k baseline. After Googling for a while it appears that prolly my autochoke is faulty. Where can I get this solved and how much it cost? My old timer mechanic in town doesn't have a clue about this thing. Thank you! smile.gif
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I second that your autochoke is working fine. Probably needs just a bit of adjustment. I wish the autochoke on my 2000 Iswara was back to working like that.. cry.gif
ca2n
post Jul 8 2015, 04:06 PM

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Hi all,

Is anybody familiar with the headlamp adjustment screws for the LMST headlamps? Which screw does what adjustment to the headlamp aim? Thanks in advanced for the info. smile.gif


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