LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!
LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!
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Dec 14 2014, 07:34 AM
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#1
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
My iswara now is 13 years of age. Coming to 14 soon. Recently did a general overhaul + clush lining replacement. Change spoilt engine mounting also. Although it's an old car, it's has a new engine and hopefully will keep going on for another 10 years.
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Dec 14 2014, 09:05 PM
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#2
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
QUOTE(megadisc @ Dec 14 2014, 10:08 AM) Before I say the price, I need to clarify I am living in a remote area in Sabah. Big enough to have 3G internet coverage, small enough to not have a single fastfood chain. The nearest city is Kota Kinabalu which is 2 hours drive away. This has its toll on everyday expenses, they are more expensive than I would have got in Semenanjung. 2ndly, almost all the engine parts are genuine originals from Proton Eon in Kota Kinabalu. To slightly break it out: Clush: 400 Radiator (I am sure this is not original because it is thicker) : 180 General Overhaul = 1600 Labour = I got special price. Can't disclose it here. |
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Jan 3 2015, 11:16 AM
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#3
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
QUOTE(fishncatz @ Jan 2 2015, 07:11 PM) What is the best manual transmission fluid that your iswaras currently using? Mine was a bit different. When the car was fully heated up (i/e drive long enough), then the gears engages very easily. However, when i just started the car, the gears are hard to engage. I eventually have to force them in. Will have the forman help me check during my chinese new year break lol... now just bear with the pain.Mine currently on castrol gl-5 80W-90. The first and second gear plus reverse seems hard to get engaged. I read somewhere before that the reverse gear doesnt have a synchro. After the car fully heat up from the journey from seremban to kl, kl to seremban, the engagement seems hard to get in gears. unlike during cold, the gears gets in easily. What is the problems? Fail syncros or gear oil? If is the oil is the problem, is the petronas gl-5 manual trans fluid recommended? |
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Jan 4 2015, 02:00 AM
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#4
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
QUOTE(fishncatz @ Jan 3 2015, 06:20 PM) I'm sure you are using mono-grade transmission fluid that likely to be Sae 90w as this are not all season multi-grade gearbox fluid. Wait for the sifus to clarify I need to check back the oil I am using. I changed my gear linings recently and I am not too sure what oil the mechanic used. Does it makes a big difference, I mean when you used the Toyota gear oil? |
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Jan 6 2015, 11:14 PM
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#5
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
QUOTE(megadisc @ Jan 6 2015, 10:28 PM) yeah ...i just start with an UNSER this evening .. My mum's 2004 vios got that mechanism where if you switch off engine and the light is still on it will buzz till you are deaf. Not sure if we can get an aftermarket one.drove the way back already took more than 30minutes thanks to jam at EDL highway ... so i guesses should be charged enough ... damn ..i need to add buzzer or something for my lights coz they quite dim in the morning ... QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jan 6 2015, 08:53 PM) Could be as below, from cheapest on top: I am doing air-cond service tomorrow due to cold water dripping from the passenger side. Air-cond still blow cold air but now I have to bring it up to fan 2. Fan 1 air-cond is non-existent.1) Thermostat potentionmeter rosaked/longgar 2) Wiring(sometimes it's even more expansive than hardware if the wayaring kena gigit tikus, dunno which part) 3) Radiator bocor, air tarak kipas tamau puseng, akon kompeser tamau engeij. Coba cek radiator dulu 4) Kompressor clutch demagnetized 5) Kompressor koyaked 6) Lebih dari 1 barang rosaked yg seperti cerita atas Good luck This post has been edited by chrisstse: Jan 6 2015, 11:16 PM |
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Jan 7 2015, 08:04 PM
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#6
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jan 7 2015, 10:16 AM) Quick question, how many of you guys still having the stock door locks actuators(the door lock motor on each door with center locking system on the alarm module) in the car until today? Sad story with your old car dude...Another question, if rosaked, will you go back buy Plotong original which cost an arm and leg? Or modify aftermarket universal fitted actuator? Have you ever consider, whether the original lock actuator can be repaired/serviced? My whole alarm system was replaced last year by a aftermarket module when it will automatically bounce back after 5 minutes you lock it down. It took 12 years for it to break down. Not bad for Proton. Did not dare to take proton original as it will not cost only my arm or leg, but half my body due to budget. So, take the universal alarm system which is like rm200. I still have the original proton central locking system blackbox in the car but the actuator already gone liao... Out of topic story: Got this car from a plantation worker 3 years ago (The car was 9 year old that time). Surprisingly this car did not give me lots of problems. I only replace: 1) Odometer (10 years after used) => can't get my original LMSS lotus odometer as it's so rare in Sabah =RM300 2) Front absorbers (not sure how long after use, i switch it right after i bought it)=> 2 x RM 150 (The mechanic told me it's kelabu punya bagus tahan, that time I am not very good with car, i just follow) 3) Aircond switch TWICE. Don't ask me why 4) Tyres. I changed 3 times the tyres. Total Rm 1100 First time after i bought the car, i changed the front tyres as it wears out. Changed to continental tyres which i regretted so much. I have to say continental tyres are not built for rough roads, and in Sabah mostly you got is rough roads with holes here and there (2 x RM 220). Last year, i changed the back tyres due to cupping problem. This time due to budget, i get the Silverstone Synergy M3 (2 x rm170) I know i got chopped gao gao because it's 2 days after hari raya. Then continental tyres wear off, changed to Toyo NanoEnergy 3 (2 x RM180) 5) Back absorbers (not sure, after i bought it for 2 years then it break down) = 2 x rm 75 6) Front breakpads => RM 45 per piece Total RM180 7) General Overhaul and clutch lining change after it reach 12 year old. Total RM 3000 8) The signal lights and wiper stick = rm 140 9) Alarm system = RM 300 Grand total = RM5330 Why I got all this price down is because my girlfriend start to complain i spend more on car than her today Service my aircond today and it's just freaking cold. Sure have to ikat perut to save for my CNY soon. |
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Jan 7 2015, 11:19 PM
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#7
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 7 2015, 08:42 PM) Your drive shafts/CV joints, starter motor, mechanical fuel pump, water pump, wheel bearings, front track arms/bush, rear axle are still the original factory fitted ones? I have no idea actually. I bought the car with the help of my dealer uncle (a friend of my father). He told me everything is in 1 piece, and it passed puspakom. Since I have no idea at that time, I believe him... I really should have found lowyat got a car club forum by then. Not sure if I want to check again, since I have bought it and already used it for 3 years. QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jan 7 2015, 09:29 PM) LMSS was my 1st choice geh, but waifu say LMST looks newer wor. Sadly, the LMSS parked there the headlamp wasn't clean properly, so the LMST win liao the point of time finance minister say the LMST headlights looks very new. Now.... haiz..... blur until LMST was my first choice because it is newer but that time the one that fits the budget is LMSS. In my opinion, LMSS was too loud, the exhaust from the factory also like that. I have heart problems sitting inside a car that is too loud. LMSS uses the old model lamp, so memang if your car signal lights got holes, and after rain it will have fog around the lamp, making it look like old car. LMSS is special edition so i guess more worth it? Especially with the red Lotus dashboard....now that I have lost it, i kind of missed it. This post has been edited by chrisstse: Jan 7 2015, 11:27 PM |
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Jan 8 2015, 10:46 AM
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#8
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jan 8 2015, 06:48 AM) When you drive at night.... That was then when I wanted to buy a car. For an amateur newer always means better ma ![]() Blue kaler yo.... so gei ![]() The red color scheme is just nice for the eyes. Lidis atleast it's sharp, easy to view. 1 glance all needful information in the eyes liao Not to mention the painful suffer of having stuff dropped out from the glove compartment, which doesn't have a door! Untra unpractical to the max Headlamps if you don't like, pls exchange with me. I'll bear the shipping cost ok ![]() ![]() If you do not know how to appreciate an LMSS, here's 33 ooohs and aaahs ![]() ![]() Sorry to say, other than personal preference like yourself, LMSS features easily tapaued LMST, LMST(Merdeka edition 2006 orange kaler red tail lamp tinted with CD Player), original Iswara, Iswara aeroback, Saga Orion, Saga Magma, Saga Megavalve, Saga Knight, Saga Aeroback. So if you would like to have LMST, I dun mind swap every single thing from my LMST with your LMSS, including entire dashboard migration. And not to mention the plasticky door panel that makes me wanna kick my car everytime when I try to open the door. I saw a glimpse of blue colour lotus style dashboard. Is that even possible? Headlamps you go buy in sparepart shop la...They got sell ma. the signal only lamps 1 pair = RM 180, the headlamps 1 pair = RM360 (i think). |
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Jan 8 2015, 06:10 PM
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#9
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 8 2015, 10:45 AM) No, it not about turning back on the purchase. Just that these things may be coming up for replacement after 12 years... I have successfully restored my car from many many different strange noise to no more noise. Only noise left audible is my loud exhaust which I am still saving up to change it. Also, it does not feel weird when I was driving so my guess is it's still ok. The starter motor and fuel pump can go kaput with little or no warning and leave your car stranded. The other items give ample warning so they are no that worrying. Please don't scare me wei..... Sorry, amateur trying to learn... I think i know where the fuel pump is, but where is the starter motor situated? Also, how much is the starter motor and fuel pump cost? Ori and also cikai brand... want to estimate how much i need to save for those. QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jan 8 2015, 04:43 PM) Jiu noe ar, cap ayam LMST 1 pair baru RM200 Yalorh, Ori cost 1 arm and 1 leg, cikai brand 2 years later have to change. So praying mine still hold. If not have to buy cikai LMST lamp already.![]() Out of topic question: Anyone knows where to get the LMSS odometer? Also, the centre linings at the doors....mine is like senget already and now flapping outwards. This post has been edited by chrisstse: Jan 8 2015, 06:21 PM |
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Jan 8 2015, 08:31 PM
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#10
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
QUOTE(alexkos @ Jan 8 2015, 08:18 PM) bro...im driving 2005 lmst manual Your RM60 is using which oil price? Please help us convert to litres ok? There are many things that affect your fc. my fc is very sad....pump RM60 can only drive 300km. (city drive) Problem 1. I felt that the engine vibrate strongly especially when the car is idle. But once the car is moving, no more vibration. My friend said that need to change rubber....but how should I tell this to my mechanic? 2. Anything to look for to reduce my fc? You may assume that I drive below 2.5rpm (all practical stuff). But I want to seriously reduce this fc.... tq bro =) 1. your engine status (ie. how long din do basic service/ overhaul/leaking or not) 2. Your route condition, you mentioned city drive but need to know got jam or not? 3. Your exhaust (stock factory or modified to get more hp?) 4. Tyres condition: What rim and tyres are you using? Those are some surface stuffs that I can think of now. Let quatz and albert answer you about the mechanic part. Your engine idle at what rpm? It could be: 1) Your engine idling at wrong idle timing 2) Carburetor dirty already 3) Engine status 4) Engine mounting damaged already (the most unlikely cause you say once driving no more vibrate) Best to bring it to a trusty mechanic and have him check for you... Find the guy under the coconut tree and you end up like me, paying hundreds and thousand and get the same problem. |
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Jan 8 2015, 09:01 PM
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#11
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 8 2015, 08:43 PM) Starter motor is located under cylinder no.4 intake manifold. Can only be seen in photos below where the top components are dismantled. Usually replaced by recond one, about RM170 incl. labour. Ori maybe doubled or tripled the price, not sure. Ok. I got it. Usually what sort of warning signs do these 2 give out or it would just die straightaway without any abnormal signs?Info on fuel pump is provided on 1st page of this thread. I changed mine Kyosan RM150 incl. labour. If you intend to use your car for a long time to come, it is advisable to budget these items for the next major repair. I am having a very weird issue now where sometimes (only sometimes, like 2/3 times in a week) when i cold start the car, it will have to do asthma gasping like not enough air. Adjust the autochoke screw, ok for the first day and the second day, then come again the asthma gasping the 3rd day. It is not always but it's just funny because i thought adjusting the autochoke screw would give me like 4 to 5 weeks no problem. |
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Jan 8 2015, 09:33 PM
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#12
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 8 2015, 09:22 PM) Starter about to kaput symptoms : unable to start. I took a piece of wood and knock the starter motor (not Proton, a previous car where the starter motor is visible at the front side). Able to start. After some time it happened again. Knock again and can start. This time luckily was not stranded, maybe the hard knocks shook the carbon brushes into contact again. Note that what I experienced then may not be same as in current Proton cars, but I am not taking chances again. |
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Jan 9 2015, 06:09 PM
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#13
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jan 8 2015, 10:41 PM) But ofcourse, I think this tank will be back to normal 13km/l ~ 14km/l jor bcoz really beh tahan liao Mine unfortunately is around 11.8~12km/l Before general overhaul it's around 9~10.5km/L Must be my driving techniques eh? QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 9 2015, 10:25 AM) Not sure of the 'asthma gasping' - is it just the strange sounds, or it it rough running? I need to take a video to fully show how asthma gasping is, will do it tomorrow morning. It's like the engine is trying to suck in air to reach idle. My idle is set at 1 rpm, but when cold start, the engine will go up to 0.5rpm first, then do the asthma gasping to reach 1rpm. When the engine is hot, no this kind of problem pulak. Even if i press the throttle, it will go normal, but when i lift up the throttle, it become back asthma gasping until the engine is hot enough and reach 1rpm.Does it happen when idle or even when your press the throttle pedal? The autochoke screw only changes the idle position of the throttle, so I am not sure if related to the gasping problem. There is a separate screw for idle mixture, if it is a mixture problem. From the carburettor diagrams, the autochoke uses a circuit that provides a richer mixture for cold engine, besides pushing the throttle opening more. QUOTE(alexkos @ Jan 9 2015, 12:29 PM) tq bro for reply.. Ok bro, your fc is actually not bad. you get 11.5km/l which is around the same as mine. but mine average have to refill every week due to the 70% highway run. 8.7litres per 100km, using ron95. Your engine idle at what rpm? It could be: idle around 1rpm...can hear the sound especially when baru start the car....it fluctuates around 1rpm. 1) Your engine idling at wrong idle timing should be at what rpm? I will ask mechanic. 2) Carburetor dirty already will go ask.. how much is this? I was referring to the vibration you are experiencing when i ask about your car idling at what rpm. Usual car will adjust to idle at 1rpm. But there is always other factors that causes vibration, like aircond and stuffs. You need to go find out yourself. Carburator cleaning and tuning cost me around RM80 last time i did it. Mine here is much more expensive as it's east coast. Bro, by basic service i mean change motor oil, filter oil, carburator cleaning and tuning etc. In layman terms, overhaul is to take out the engine from your car, open it up and clean it. Only do it when your car is like 10+ years and have never done any overhaul before. Its very expensive and somebody can go without it until they sell their car anyway. |
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Jan 9 2015, 09:25 PM
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#14
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 9 2015, 06:40 PM) alternator service/recondition is ~100 Thanks for the info. Although you are replying our bro, i also learnt that I kena potong can look up lyn for that shop at jalan ipoh, very honest folks. rejected me cuz my alternator still works fine LOL alternator if voltage stable, no need to do anything. just check/pay attention to voltage being steady 14-14.3v power steering oil if want budget, can just use proton ATF SP3 also can i think 100-300ml enough, do NOT overfill. a bottle is in the rm20-24? radiator if you dont want inconvenience, just get premix. proton SC charges rm31/bottle (i just did for inspira lol) water pump ori GMB (i purchased it damn long time ago preparing for my iswara but procrastination master race so lol) although no longer made in japan, thailand isnt so bad and its around rm130 Ori proton will quota ~180 timing belt kit ori proton rm90 includes the cam/crank seals, bearing and the timing belt. that + the water pump together, interval as per your doc will suffice. additional considering your interval for spark plugs, i would assume it is for cheap copper plugs? for those, i think you may be able to get a set of ori bosch for rm3x, like 8/piece? 10 per piece also rm 40 la. brake fluid, consider spending a little bit more for ori bosch, or at least ori proton or from mainstream oil brands like shell/petronas and please get them from reputable source (make sure they are ori) and they should easily last through your specified interval. in a nutshell, once brake fluid begin to darken is when i totally flush them. i'm VERY particular on my braking performance oil filter ori proton is between rm7.5-12 depending on how many you buy, and whether you're buying from ori proton part center or outside authorized stockist (also listed on proton website) such as CK wong (at jalan ipoh/segambut border there) that i frequently visit. fuel filter rm7ish even from proton part center (some stockist outside keep running out of stocks air filter rm12 ori Proton AMP My gear oil is penzoil Sae90 Gl4 which the person quote me RM 45 per bottle. The mechanic guy told me our gear oil capasity is 1.6L? I had to buy 2 bottles.... Probably will ask the mechanic to change the timing belt. I am using bearings and belts from mitsubishi, 3 years ago until now no change. I dunno why my place here ori bosch spark plug very expensive, rm12 per spark plug. |
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Jan 12 2015, 10:03 PM
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#15
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
QUOTE(delsoo @ Jan 12 2015, 06:13 PM) my dad just bought a 2003 proton iswara se edition silver colour . This is the limited edition , right? I am actually quite amazed by the car . The car is not as noisy(engine sound) as my uncle's 1996 proton iswara , although it's been 12 years old. But it's not as powerful as the 1996 model .I have to press the pedal quite hard to achieve higher speed. I am wondering how's the fuel consumption . I am having the pretty LMSS now. Loud, yes..... not the engine but exhaust. If you car engine is loud and you don't like it, then you know what to do.... Any car sifus own the car can comment here pls? How to lessen the vibration when the car is idle? Turn off the aircond? Idling tuning, carburator cleaning and also check your engine mounting. For power wise, you don't get to save fuel on this baby. Nope, you WILL NOT save. With the exhaust so exotic, you will keep pressing, pressing and pressing until you realised, alamak, only 11.8km/L max. One more thing for your car, do ask about the clutch lining from previous owners. The clutch linings in this car may have not been changed. Cheers. p/s: One more thing, my baby before general overhaul was like dead man walking, dragging, clanking just don't want to go. After genhaul, it's pushing me to go forward, the engine is very quite, but my 2 fans (engine fan and also aircond fan) are much louder than it. QUOTE(delsoo @ Jan 12 2015, 06:34 PM) my iswara se comes with 4 speaker . But only 2 speakers are working .(the rear speaker) , i ckecked it , it's clarion brand. Is it good ? I personally dont like it very much and feel that blaupunkt on the 1996 model sound better Mine have 4 speakers, but only 2 was working perfectly, so I ended up just throw away the front. (Please do not mock me because I don't like loud noise in car) the tweeters, I never have them even before i purchase it. So, not too sure.This post has been edited by chrisstse: Jan 12 2015, 10:10 PM |
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Jan 14 2015, 06:33 PM
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#16
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
I hate ants!!!!
Parked under a tree for 1 day at work, went home, and found ants....thought only a couple so just squished them. Today, when i turn on aircond, the ants all crawled out, scary wei.... So far, found the bonnet board that covers the spare tyre is the problem. Water somehow was able to sip through the rubber seal that encircle the whole bonnet and soaked the whole board. The ants lived directly under the board and now I am hoping there is no queen yet. No signs of ant nest yet. Changed the board already and now trying to find where the water went through. I am considering changing the rubber seals if they are not expensive. How much do they cost, if I decide to DIY myself? This post has been edited by chrisstse: Jan 14 2015, 06:34 PM |
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Jan 14 2015, 09:02 PM
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#17
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 14 2015, 07:14 PM) Don't change the lining yet unless clearly in bad condition. Water enters Ok, i dried the car liao....today got rain... my car back part is exposed to rain. let me see if tomorrow still got soaking or not. If got can confirm the rubber gone dy right?by capillary action even if your lining is good. Try this to stop the capillary action: a) remove the rubber lining/weather-seal, b) clean the layer of dirt that is now exposed on the bodywork and apply some polish/wax, c) wash/scrub the rubber lining/weather-seal of the same, let it dry and apply grease in the groove throughout the whole length, d) instal back. |
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Jan 14 2015, 10:11 PM
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#18
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 14 2015, 09:49 PM) Not 100% confirmed yet is the rubber seal. Water entry is usually due to the boot seal, or Thanks for the reminder, I will check both sides, but fingers cross it's not leaking at all... too pity my BRIM wants to go for the car... already spend a lot on it.... tail-lights seal gap, or both. Need some detective work to narrow down the cause. If you can see the water trail inside the boot it will help - see if got moisture under the boot seal or at the tail-lights. Otherwise you might end up spending money for a new boot lining and later find the culprit is the tail-light. In my case, it was both : the tail-light seal was leaking, plus the boot door lining was having capillary action. I applied sealant to the tail-lights and also clean/oiled the lining (without buying a new lining), so far so good, no signs of water in the boot after rain. |
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Jan 16 2015, 06:47 PM
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#19
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
QUOTE(delsoo @ Jan 16 2015, 05:05 PM) I pumped my fuel tank to about 85-90% . i am driving to my workplace go and back (total distance = 30km) 5 days a week. I noticed that every 3 days , the fuel tank only become half. p/s : i drive maximum 90km/h , keeping the engine rotate at max 2.5k rpm.I hardly pressed the break pedal most of the time , i let the car slowly decelerate until it reach the traffic light. When the traffic light turn green , i change to gear -2 when the car is not fully stopped. Is the fuel consumpution ok? Like the bros here always say...do not estimate your F/c by only 1 fuel up. Do 5 consecutive fuel up and then get an average. Also, your figures count. Please get a drive distance using the odo meter and note down your fuel up in Litres, because unless I am the fuel in your tank, i won't know how much is your 85%. Most old cars if well taken care would go up to 12~13km/L. I would be extremely happy if I go 12km/L. Please do not expect 21km/L like the new Honda City hybrid. Your car is one tenth of the value so please be more lenient. QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 14 2015, 09:49 PM) Not 100% confirmed yet is the rubber seal. Water entry is usually due to the boot seal, or I just confirm that my right tail lights are letting the water through, moisture can be felt but not like waterfall. tail-lights seal gap, or both. Need some detective work to narrow down the cause. If you can see the water trail inside the boot it will help - see if got moisture under the boot seal or at the tail-lights. Otherwise you might end up spending money for a new boot lining and later find the culprit is the tail-light. In my case, it was both : the tail-light seal was leaking, plus the boot door lining was having capillary action. I applied sealant to the tail-lights and also clean/oiled the lining (without buying a new lining), so far so good, no signs of water in the boot after rain. Another thing, the rubber that used to seal my back windscreen is also leaking, letting the water to sip into the space where the rear wiper motor was situated, stay there and when i open up the boot, drain out the water into the boot. Somemore, because of the water, my spare tyre space has rust all over, need to polish and redo the paintings. Looks like a big ang pow for my mechanic when it's near CNY.... I just hold my brim for 3 secs and now have to give it to the mechanic.... |
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Jan 20 2015, 05:46 PM
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#20
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Nov 2013 From: Beaufort Sabah |
20 January 2015, my car rammed into a viva early in the morning. First time accident for me. I am not hurt, the other driver also ok. But I am really exhausted because it happened in Kota Kinabalu and I have no people to back me up. Not sure how much is the lost, but the mechanic and towing guy say fixable.
![]() ![]() ![]() Drive safely everyone. Chinese new year is around the corner. For me, it's over before it even started. This post has been edited by chrisstse: Jan 20 2015, 05:49 PM |
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