I had the same problem wit my lmst
went to accesory the person said the socket to connect two wire is burnt
he help me tuck in some wire n nw it work again
point is he did it for free lol
but he did ask me go go bac to his shop to remove the socket n connect two wire directly without socket
but i havent got time to do it yet
btw the socket located below steering at right hand side.

Thanks for the info; will try to look for the socket. Perhaps a photo would help?

Yeap i managed to do it before you posted. The looking on timing plate method is the same as your view in pic. However the timing light i can't manage to have any space to go in. So I resorted shing it from the engine mounting side. Pic as per below. WARNING to future DIYers: Careful of the timing light aim and wires while you looking on timing marks! As its too near the beltings. Also make sure 850rpm before setting anything!

Also you might need to set your idle timing higher/lower after adjusting your timing, as the idle timing will run out a bit. Personally i set my idle with lights and air con compressor on will maintain minimum 800-850rpm so not so shaky at morning/night driving.

https://goo.gl/photos/4YyQqZv7GLarrA4F9

I retarded my timing a little 4-5 degree, throttle less responsive. Is it different ignition timing sets to different power band as well? From what I read is more to CAM timing changing power band, but I think CAM timing not equal to ignition timing right?


I always wondered what's that for, but since its bundled so tightly to the wiretape, I didn't touch it yet.


This is the socket you shall look out for (more yellowish one):
https://goo.gl/photos/h9uu279d1iqrKVgR9

All the wires from steering column switch redirects to this IINM. You can try turn on and off the low beam and see which wires corresponds to. Once you have the pin, do like northernhero, just short the 2 pins with an external wires first to confirm the contact points on the connector is not the problem. If lights still on off, might be steering wiper switch column.

Also the root of the problem may lay with the steering column switch. Last time this problem solved once I changed the steering column switch. Upon taking out the old steering wiper switch you'll notice the contacts are blackened out by high current, which results random on off and finally gone.

Look at my symptoms which is similar to yours. I lost my low beam and finally high beam at midnight.



EDIT 1: Pic fixed
EDIT 2: I took out my old steering wiper switch column and traced back the wire. The suspect wire is the yellow circle and green circle. Yellow circle should be for low beam and green circle should be for high beam. There's melted/blackened sign for the yellow circle wire. Try bypass that first to see whether it solves low beam problem.


Also check your headlight bulb connector to see whether is it in good condition or melted. Slight out of shape is ok but if the plastic looks "bubbly/boiled down", get it replaced.

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Jun 27 2015, 04:37 PM

Thanks for the lots of info, will take sometime to digest it.

The timing adjustment via the lights & distributor does not affect
the cam timing because you are adjusting after the cams. From what
I read, the cylinder pressures depend a lot on the spark advance/retard,
see example of graph below. The optimum timing is the best compromise
of getting the best pressure against the least pressure build-up fighting
the compression stroke.

After you have set the timing advance, you can rev the engine and see the
effect of the vacuum advance and centrifugal advance as the throttle opens
and the speed rises.

As I understand it, the timing advance works throughout the whole speed
range and throttle openings, no power bands.


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Noted.

Thank you so much for your pics and explanation as well as the steps. I have sent to the workshop and I have replaced the switch. Unfortunately I had it done before reading your comments as I need to do it asap =(. I got charged RM 170 for that switch + labour and I think I got "sembelih", am I right?

Anyway, I noticed that the area for the red wire in the middle of the top row has been blackened. Is it necessary to change the whole switch after all? Or I can just replace small part of it to make it functioning again? I need to learn this so if next time if it happens again, I know what to do and I can save some cash.

Thanks again and thank others who replied and gave some opinions and offered their help too. Have a nice day =D

So it is the switch after all. Just curious, did the mechanic do troubleshooting/tracing,
or he straightaway zoomed on the switch?

Regarding prices, depends on whether he used OEM or 3rd party parts, how much time
and effort he spent. Prices of the part vary so much, see below.



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No powerbands I see. Retarding does feel a bit less power during pick up. However pinging does not present unless floor to 0 vacuum. I used to floor at 0.25 bar vacuum, any lower than that pings. By retarding I can floor around 0.15 still does not observe ping. But maybe overall fuel consumption might increase due to flooring harder than it used to be? Will update on my next full tank.


Woah some website still claimed they have the original. For that price i'll top up instead of going through hassle to change. Mine I think started to have the some headlamp "auto-off" symptoms, which i think only original does guarantee in long run. The original old switch works 7+ years in total, 5+ years start to have the first symptoms and lasted 2 years before the contacts got blackened totally and won't work anymore.

I agree with you that if the mechanic is "Diligent" enough, he should have known this problem and bypass those wires before changing the switch. However since now its fixed then just monitor first.

If you'll really like to know whether the switch is at fault, take back the steering wiper switch, open up and you'll see some contacts. If the contacts are blackened (due to high current arcing like power window switch), then switch is the problem. If the contacts are fine, maybe the part you saw melted is the culprit, and the problem will come sooner. But for that bypassing part is mostly just bypass wires not a big deal i'll say.

If really wanna save $$, can also. Take out the switch, use sandpaper on all the contacts you found blackened, fix it back. It'll run for sometime again. This process is normally done in our power window switches by online enthusiasts DIY blogspot. Some websites also suggested dielectric grease to coat after sanding off so it'll last even longer!

any promotion for Sage CVT low spec version?

What you observed regarding less tendency to ping does relate to the theory: retarded
timing produce lower combustion pressures in the cylinder, so less cause to auto-ignite
(auto-ignition due to high pressures without aid of spark, like a diesel engine). Pinging
is the collision of 2 or more flame fronts due to auto-ignition adding to the one from
the spark plug.

The loss of power during pick-up is also explained by the fact that the peak pressures
occur when the piston is already on the way down, too late to take advantage of the
useful work.

However, from what read, the retarded timing and thus the combustion
may lead to overheating. Not sure if you will find this happening.

Flooring may not really consume more fuel, in fact, it moves the engine nearer to the
area of highest efficiency in the bsfc map, see below (less breathing losses). But the
effect of retarded timing may offset this and the result is mixture of both.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jun 30 2015, 01:53 PM


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Guys, nowadays when on aircond my car feels rough, the engine sound a bit harsh and when declutching i need to press minyak more so that the car wont shake and die.

Can shed some light on this problem? Can OEM FICD kaput become like this?

separate issue aside, checked the magnetic clutch components/air cond compressor oil/gas pressure etc?
replaced the drier? (sorta like an equivalent to our car air filter except it's for the air cond system)

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jun 30 2015, 05:41 PM

The ac idle ufo dieded liaw i think .
Or might be vacumm leak somewhere or vacumm hose flew off .
Oh hi bro , long see

This post has been edited by sinister_sid: Jun 30 2015, 11:57 PM

wa sifu here
good pointers on the vacuum hoses

long time no see bro

Vacuum hose is the one connected to OEM FICD right? Got two hoses. I see all tight no problemo. Maybe got leak somewhere not visible.

Test if the FICD is functioning:
Start engine, ask some one to activate the air-con ON/OFF switch on the dashboard
see whether the UFO plunger moves UP or DOWN. When ON, the plunger should
move up the lever pushing down the screw to move the throttle lever. If it does not
move at all, could be the UFO kaput, relay kaput, or the electrical system got problems. (Assuming vacuum system is ok).

If it is moving, it could be just the air-cond idle screw needs to be adjusted.


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Hi all,

Is anybody familiar with the headlamp adjustment screws for the LMST headlamps? Which screw does what adjustment to the headlamp aim? Thanks in advanced for the info.


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From what I found in 2 sites when I searched in the internet :
"the higher screw is for left/right and the bottom one its for high/low "

From my experience with adjustment of Iswara headlamp : over-adjustment
can dislodge the adjusting mechanism, so now one of them does not work
anymore. Not sure if can happen to LMST headlamp.

Hi, glad to see many sifu here.

I am driving saga lmst. The car has many problem.
- When the car is moving, the aircon is cold. But when the car is not moving (in traffic jam), the aircon wind is warm. What could be the problem?
- Yesterday after pump wind into the car tyre, the car has some "weng weng" sound, seems like coming from wheel. Can i know what could be the problem?
- How to know the car auto-choke is functioning or not?
- Can suggest a good and honest mechanic shop? preferably nearby serdang area.

Thanks all

Hye all.. Anybody know the closet price for + & - wire that connect to battery.. Mine is rust..