The RGO is rated GL5 or 6, which on specifications alone does not meet Proton's specs for LMST gearbox.

that should have been the way
well, normal gear oil (even cheap castrol) can be GL5; Just pay attention to labels and use GL4/synchromesh or yellow metal friendly gear oils

Quick question, how many of you guys still having the stock door locks actuators(the door lock motor on each door with center locking system on the alarm module) in the car until today?

Another question, if rosaked, will you go back buy Plotong original which cost an arm and leg? Or modify aftermarket universal fitted actuator?

Have you ever consider, whether the original lock actuator can be repaired/serviced?

My lmst fc is really superb nia
I pumped Rm80 and can barely drive 320 km
Does that mean my fc = RM80/1.91=41.88L , 313km/41.88=7.47km/l ?
I know its a rough calculation but is tis normal?

Mine is lmst 04 manual

can DIY, may dig back previous posts.

only need a philips screwdriver to loosen 2 bolts and tune accordingly

You need a swivel head socket type of spanner. If you use ordinary spanner, you are going to wear out the nut until it become rounded.

==edit==
BTW, how will you adjust the timing, using timing strobe light?

He tune with using timing light and one machine that need to attach something on the exhaust pipe and also with some screen showing heart beat like things when rev the car... is that CO reading?

1) A magician that uses timing light, the firing timing has been optimized to the circumstances where the engine health stands

Can contact nestum if you're OK with Jalan ipoh

U can go any workshop tat u visit all the time.

Front will cost more than rear.

I not sure bout the price. Maybe u go spare part shop ask for the front bearing & ask the labor at the workshop

Even Nestum also don't have the pressing tools

cost more on labor only because need the machine press.

nestum can go outsource it to machinery shop no worries

i see, ok i'll ask my usual workshop first
thanks all
ok, will pm him too, thx quaza

Pricing wise you're on the lower side I guess. However for the lifespan within 1 year is too short. I had replaced my rear bearing last year and for now is still running good. Original beating lasted 7 years. I would go diagnosing first by ensuring original bearing, then more critical will be mounting but nowadays most of them are smart enough to mount properly for the rear. And especially check the dust Cap is not punctured while they place back the cap. Major bearing failures are improper mounting and in our case would be penetration of impurities for the rear bearings,punctured dust Cap.

If you have seem the old bearing, shall be able to make out if there's lots of dust and moisture penetration. Grease will change colour and dust dirt will be everywhere. That's the sign of cap puncture,or worse is untraced source of impurities making way into the bearing assembly.

guys, car cannot start, just service last month 
forgot what indicator is light on before start the engine, anyone know what problem

same like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-ip-pm2ITw

I too find it hard to see the water level from outside. Open the caps and look inside, make sure the water level is higher than the plates inside the hole. I think my next batt I straight buy maintenance free lol.

@alexwsk, im using maintenance free battery - i dont see any hole on battery - how do you refill yours?

sorry mine no sticker nor holes. <smile>.

(fun fact: rusty clamp (pic) - result after acid spillage ~1.5 yrs ago). lol[attachmentid=6416428]