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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!

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empire
post Nov 20 2023, 10:29 PM

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QUOTE(Dweller @ Nov 20 2023, 04:35 PM)
The shop is in Kulim. Bengkel Membaiki Kereta Ah Sun
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alamak...I am in KL
fookhing
post Nov 28 2023, 07:13 PM

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What is the steel water pipe that lies below of the distributor? Is that the inlet or outlet for the water going into the engine block? Mine has formed rusty spots near to the end of the pipe where it connects into the engine block. There are some wet spotting on the clay heatshield or something like that that resembles the exhaust manifold shield located below the pipe/distributor, though the spots are not wet to touch it could be oil. There seems to be rather oily covered film on the engine block side (below the engine top cover) near to the first spark plug (leftmost from a mechanic point of view), unsure if this is any indication of anything worrisome? Will update if I have the time to take some pics.
Albert B
post Nov 28 2023, 08:26 PM

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QUOTE(fookhing @ Nov 28 2023, 07:13 PM)
What is the steel water pipe that lies below of the distributor? Is that the inlet or outlet for the water going into the engine block? Mine has formed rusty spots near to the end of the pipe where it connects into the engine block. There are some wet spotting on the clay heatshield or something like that that resembles the exhaust manifold shield located below the pipe/distributor, though the spots are not wet to touch it could be oil. There seems to be rather oily covered film on the engine block side (below the engine top cover) near to the first spark plug (leftmost from a mechanic point of view), unsure if this is any indication of anything worrisome? Will update if I have the time to take some pics.
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That is the coolant return pipe after cooling down by the radiator and going back to the engine block. Near the distributor area there is a smaller pipe that joins it. This is the return pipe for the cabin heater radiator for export versions to cold countries, but in our case, this is replaced by a rubber hose loop. Connected to this are two even smaller hoses that supply heated coolant to operate the autochoke.

The oily mess near the cylinder #4 is probably due to the cover gasket deteriorated, or oil leaking through the valve stem seal to the plug and seeping out via the thread. This can be checked by removing the plug #4 and checking for oil.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Nov 29 2023, 09:05 AM


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surianti
post Dec 20 2023, 08:02 PM

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May i know what could be causing a rotational sound from rear driver side wheel when pressing the brakes to slow down? It sounds like an old rusted fan blade slowly coming to a stop the rotational sound gets slower and slower as it comes to a stop, something like wok-wok--wok--wok---------wok...
Albert B
post Dec 21 2023, 09:40 AM

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QUOTE(surianti @ Dec 20 2023, 08:02 PM)
May i know what could be causing a rotational sound from rear driver side wheel when pressing the brakes to slow down? It sounds like an old rusted fan blade slowly coming to a stop the rotational sound gets slower and slower as it comes to a stop, something like wok-wok--wok--wok---------wok...
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One possibility, based on past experience, is that the brake pad has detached from its metal piece.

However, this can only be ascertained by opening the brake drum to check. Let the mechanic inspect it.
surianti
post Dec 21 2023, 01:11 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Dec 21 2023, 09:40 AM)
One possibility, based on past experience, is that the brake pad has detached from its metal piece.

However, this can only be ascertained by opening the brake drum to check. Let the mechanic inspect it.
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The rotational sound isn't especially loud and does not annoy unless one pay close attention to it when braking. I don't also noticed any lost of braking effectiveness. Any big issue if it were drum pads detached but ignored?
hjack
post Dec 21 2023, 02:06 PM

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QUOTE(surianti @ Dec 20 2023, 08:02 PM)
May i know what could be causing a rotational sound from rear driver side wheel when pressing the brakes to slow down? It sounds like an old rusted fan blade slowly coming to a stop the rotational sound gets slower and slower as it comes to a stop, something like wok-wok--wok--wok---------wok...
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Likely too much brake dust inside. During your next service just ask your mech to clean both side, fairly easy and inexpensive job.
Albert B
post Dec 21 2023, 07:35 PM

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QUOTE(surianti @ Dec 21 2023, 01:11 PM)
The rotational sound isn't especially loud and does not annoy unless one pay close attention to it when braking. I don't also noticed any lost of braking effectiveness. Any big issue if it were drum pads detached but ignored?
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If it is the detached brake lining/pad that is causing the sound, it is advisable to have it replaced as soon as possible. The reason is not the loss of braking power, but the damage the loose part may cause by being caught in between the moving drum and the stationary brake shoe components.

There will be no noticeable loss of braking power because most of the braking power is from the front disc brakes.

My suspicions are based on experiencing the same issue as you described, however it is better to let the mechanic look at it to confirm if my suspicions are correct, or it may be something else.


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dkcheong1127
post Jan 8 2024, 09:21 AM

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hi all, i have a 1994 saga 1.3 aeroback to let go, carsome only accept for RM500 cash...any other way can get better value ?
kevinlim001
post Jan 8 2024, 09:30 AM

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QUOTE(dkcheong1127 @ Jan 8 2024, 09:21 AM)
hi all, i have a 1994 saga 1.3 aeroback to let go, carsome only accept for RM500 cash...any other way can get better value ?
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sell off urself using mudah/fb marketplace. carsome/tukar they goes price by book. then from there they will deduct the price based on the condition of your car..
zemega
post Jan 17 2024, 09:32 AM

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My rpm meter (left one) has been misbehaving for years. Where the needle sometimes works sometimes not. And the backlighting sometimes works and sometimes not. I did verify that the bulbs are working, by changing the bulbs with other meters bulb.

Looking at Shopee, I could not figure out which to buy. The price varies too much for me to make a judgement. Anyone can suggest which shop or listing to buy? I'm not fixated on Shopee. I can use Lazada or others as well.
emale
post Feb 4 2024, 04:05 PM

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May I know if I can just use any brand of ATF SP3 as my power steering fluid for my oldie 2007 Saga/Iswar LMST??

The official power steering fluid for other models is ATF SP3, not sure about mine.
surianti
post Feb 10 2024, 12:31 PM

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May I know is Proton Original mounting still being manufactured? I heard OEM mountings like Schmaco don't lasts?
darjana
post Feb 13 2024, 09:46 PM

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QUOTE(surianti @ Feb 10 2024, 12:31 PM)
May I know is Proton Original mounting still being manufactured? I heard OEM mountings like Schmaco don't lasts?
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why not, I'm using schmaco on saga lmst. already 6yrs. still going good. no single vibration on steering yet. daily driven car.
igster
post Feb 19 2024, 01:09 PM

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Hi Everyone,

I'm hoping to get some advice and pointers.

I'll be replacing my worn Metal King brake pads soon - with the same pads, on my 2000 Iswara Aeroback, and might do the same for the rear shoes.

To increase the braking power and efficiency, should I consider installing a Double Layer Servo as well? If yes, I appreciate that there are a few options, but which ones are the most ideal ones that can be fitted with no or minimal modifications?

Also, should I be considering anything else as well, without going so far as upgrading the disks to VR4 or NVR?
hunterlala
post Feb 23 2024, 10:24 AM

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Hello every sifu,

wanted to renew car insurance for my 2004 saga lmst but dunno which variant to choose

anyone can help??

A. S A/B PS SE version 5 sp manual 1298 cc
B. S A/B type j 5sp manual 1298 cc
C. S A/B c12 5sp manual 1298cc

what is the difference, any sifu knows??
socratesman
post Feb 26 2024, 04:31 PM

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QUOTE(hunterlala @ Feb 23 2024, 10:24 AM)
A. S A/B PS SE version 5 sp manual 1298 cc
B. S A/B type j 5sp manual 1298 cc
C. S A/B c12 5sp manual 1298cc

what is the difference, any sifu knows??
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Probably choose the one closest to your JPJ grant or prev insurer?

Mine is Nov 2004 LMST with Kurnia:
Proton Iswara S A/B Type J 1.3 AB
frontierzone
post Mar 8 2024, 05:54 PM

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I enquired a few local Proton SCs about Proton Genuine Timing Belts and was advised that they are no longer manufactured, is this true? Was told to go for aftermarket brands like Gaido or Gates, so far I can see Gaido has an Official Store on Shopee (but not Gates). Might proceed with buying Gaido, is this ok? However for Water Pump which is advisable to co-install with timing belt changes, I was unable to locate any official stores for GMB or Aisin (I presume are the 2 more well-known pump brands), I see some GMB/Aisin pumps are priced around RM50 some higher as RM90, but is there a risk its not genuine?
igster
post Mar 25 2024, 03:26 PM

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QUOTE(igster @ Feb 19 2024, 01:09 PM)
Hi Everyone,

I'm hoping to get some advice and pointers.

I'll be replacing my worn Metal King brake pads soon - with the same pads, on my 2000 Iswara Aeroback, and might do the same for the rear shoes.

To increase the braking power and efficiency, should I consider installing a Double Layer Servo as well? If yes, I appreciate that there are a few options, but which ones are the most ideal ones that can be fitted with no or minimal modifications?

Also, should I be considering anything else as well, without going so far as upgrading the disks to VR4 or NVR?
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Sorry to ask again.

Anyone have any thoughts on this: using a double layer servo with stock front disks + calipers and rear drums?

Also, what might be the preferred plug and play make option for the servo?

 

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