From your description the cold idle autochoke is too high. As the engine gets hotter, the autochoke slowly goes to hot position and the metal reaches the idle screw.

There are 2 screws on the other side (the autochoke side) which is related to the cold rpm. I have not adjusted these screws before, but you can try with cold engine and see what happens. From what I read, some say adjust no.1, some say adjust no.2.

signal does not work sometime. After some discharge, it works again.

Eh u use Defi ciplak ar

Hi to all Saga members,my 5 years old saga below the sunlight explore,finally the dashboard part is crack.Everyone have idea where i can get the spare part?





Thanks.

Hi guys....
Its my first time posting here.
Just wanna ask something.

Where to find LMST antenna? The slim-thin-black-metal-rod kindda thing on LMSt roof that one.
Mine is broke liao. So wanna look for replacement. You guys know where to get @ you guys know someone selling it?

Please let me know as I need this quite urgently. Cannot hear radio in car right now.

After 1 month of hu ha, i finally got my car after the accident...
However, I now have a depressing problem.
My wiper is swiping so slow i feel it takes eternity to complete 1 circle.
The supposed fastest stroke is like the second slowest stroke when it was good.
I changed the wiper motor in Dec 2014 so pretty sure should not be the wiper motor problem. Another thing i suspected is the wiring of the car somehow goes haywire.
This is because my radio also go haywire after the accident. It plays songs from USB well, but when i switch on my radio, it acts like it is constantly auto-restarted
Is there any ways i can DIY check it first before sending to the mechanic?

Anyone has totally redone their car wiring before? Want to ask about the price and the time for doing that.

From my experience with changing absorber of previous car (also with trailing arms but no ARB), in addition to the jack for removing the wheel, the arm need to be supported by a second jack, or by using bricks or a block of wood. Otherwise the spring will drop off when you remove the absorber. The 1st jack or 2nd jack need to be adjusted to compress the spring to the correct height to fit the absorber mounting bolt holes accurately, especially gas-filled absorber is difficult to compress by hand. So maybe the ARB is not affected in this case. You are having additional ARB to the original factory fitted one? Where is it attached to, does it affect the absorber?

I remember the main problem for DIY is the absorber mounting nut cannot be loosened especially with the rust & dirt, need to use air operated impact wrench.

um, if you only hunting for extractor, i guess can try powerzone...
everyone singing praises for their extractors haha

jedi_master sifu please comment

KYB gas/oil both for iswara also
Sachs for kancil however cant comment for iswara as never used on iswara lol

All Saga/Iswara/Fiore came with standard anti roll bar attached between the sway arm. Not necessarily to detach stock ARB to change damper/spring. I believe what others mean is whether they need to detach their ULARCACING ARB.

The best effect for dashbaord bond is dismantle it, then apply epoxy resin from the INSIDE of the crack. This way you wouldn't have to deal with those bits and lumps on the dashbaord surface after being patched. Once applied, make sure you apply enough support for the dashbaord, incase if the plastic change shape then it spoil all your work. Reason for using epoxy resin is due to the material can stand high heat. If you have the time, after you've applied epoxy to the cracked site, put an extra plastic plate onto of the epoxy as an extra support and glue the surrounding of that piece of patching plastics. That whole area will become a full reinforcement and guaranteed will not crack again.



After enough experience with this, consistently applying tyre shine/silicone base polisher, the entire dashboard had turned into POWDER! *My point is, tyre shine is for tyre! Not your bloody dashboard!!!

No necessarily to remove the UlarCacing ARB for damper replacement. Regardless, magician will have to double jack 1 side(1 is to jack the sway arm to compress the spring, another is to lift the car up) of the car before removing the damper then finally the spring. Hence, with or without the UlarCacing ARB, the way to do remains the same.

As for your worry, if jacking up the car 1 side would rendered the break of welding bracket...I can't imagine how you went through a 90 degeee sharp turn 60kph corner at Sg.Besi interchange Mahameru Might as well find out it breaks during damper change, rather than it breaks during your attack Still can't brain how they came up with such ingenius idea of so called ARB that required welding to make a braket Might as well get a steel bar weld it directly on the sway arms

Heh? Quazacolt

Anyone know how to remove the rear bumper of the iswara aeroback?

After all the posting exchange, it is quite confirmed that your butt feel gaves you better placebo, hence lighten your foot and at the same time the car gaves you better mileage
1) A magician that uses timing light, the firing timing has been optimized to the circumstances where the engine health stands
2) A magician that uses ping detector(the hospital heartbeat reader thingy) to read ping can further finalize your ignition timing settings. Usually when procedure 1 is completed, this is the next step to micro decreasing ignition timing to minimize/eliminate ping/knock. Usually they no longer use hand to push anymore(only will do counter clockwise at this point to further retard ignition timing), use a small thing may be test pen to lightly knock on the distributor to get the best setup out of it.
3) A magician that uses CO reader will know how much is the exact carbon monoxide released from your exhaust tail pipe, so he/she can adjust your air flow/idling throttle angle/fuel flow/FICD actuating angle(for aircond), headlights power draw adjustment(oh yes! our Swaga got this feature also!). Adjustment is solely justified base on how much CO emission when the magician go "bem bem" your car, but I bet most magician doesn't do the "bem bem" according to normal driving condition, such as 3krpm! Usually will bem until red line, which is unrealistic. If you go redline often, will you still be worrying on FC? Probably not. If you're an ordinary driver, what is your rev range? Probably 3krpm max
4) A good magician will repeat step no.1 and 2 all over again to reconfirm the 3rd setting does not affect the ignition timing. If ignition timing has to be reset, step 3 may need to redo depending on how far off step 1 is. Usually, an average magician already can gets step 1 right for the 1st time. Hence, there are really no need to repeat the process at all, but for the sake of confirmation, and yes that makes a difference between a good magician and a lousy magician. Usually its not about the skill anymore because the good 1 and bad 1 are almost similarly skillful, but the good 1 will go an extra mile to confirm his setup has been carried up correctly.

AND, for the price of RM20, even he didn't repeat you also should feel grateful ady Nowadays where to find RM20 tuning that involved all the above!
When was the tuning carried out? Carburetor got cuci or not before the tuning? This is a mechanical carburetor engine, any slight change of condition the setting also will deviate, depending on how bad the condition is. Unlike EFi engines can auto adjust everything according to engine health condition. Even our old 4G1x MPi that can't adjust ignition timing automatically also can adjust fuel injection rate to adapt.

Autochoke can be rosak without affecting much other than cold start idling speed. Definitely not affecting of what RON fuel you use

I really curious, how did you obtain the FC reading from your previous posts where you mentioned 14km/l? Is it the FUELLY way? Or the pay RM50, call it a tank? All my life, other than newer high compression vehicles, the 90's designed engine that has significant fuel economy between RON92 and RON97 was my CRX B16A  The RON97 will really make hell lot of difference! Not to mention the power output, the fuel economy speaks for itself if it was the CRX. However though, the very same era my Potong Night 1.5S very much like to drink the RON92 red color devilish juice I feels like I can chase my own CRX with a ranjiao Plotong car when my mate is in my Hongda  And, when I put RON97 cucumber juice in my Knight, tibai the bugger is like forcing my kids to eat vege lidat Go up hill will roll backward geh

My drive was quite constant and usually how I calculate FC is I reset the meter every each full pump, I've been practicing this calculation for the past 2 years. Total KM Travelled divided by Litre of fuel pumped. I always stop filling when the nozzle auto stop, and I also pump at the same petrol station, same petrol pump as well. Regarding the consistency of the result I can say my driving pattern is pretty steady, gear change usually before 2.5k RPM depending on road condition. I can say I'm pretty light footed. Everytime I calculate my FC for Iswara it will be within 11.3 - 12.3km/l. My alternate Myvi I haven't test it with 97 yet, however it gave me around 15-16km/l reading most of the time with RON95 unless I go full highway then can get around 18km/l

Btw now I'm testing 2nd tank of RON97 let's see how it goes, if it falls back to 12km/l then I'm out of words. 

*Edit: Forgot to thank you for taking so much efforts to respond to my post and explaining those magician's skill 

UPDATE

I measured the lengths of my spark plug cables, ignoring the metal end portions, and recalculated and updated the table in the guidelines, attached.

Your cable resistances are very close to Mitsubishi standards.

mine had sealant applied, not actual gaskets.

So far in my experience of changing hoses, I have not encountered any sort of gasket. I just tighten the hose clip, and on running the engine to normal temperature, if there is a leak it will show up as stains from the colour of the coolant. Probably you can apply some sealant as Quazacolt mentioned. If air leaks in on cooling down, the overflow tank will show and increase in level of coolant.

So it is the switch after all. Just curious, did the mechanic do troubleshooting/tracing,
or he straightaway zoomed on the switch?

Regarding prices, depends on whether he used OEM or 3rd party parts, how much time
and effort he spent. Prices of the part vary so much, see below.

Cyanboy, do you have any solution? As i'm having the same situation like yours, headlights on the temperature bars rise to 4 bar, turn off goes back to 3 bar.

Thx