Thank you again for the additional info . Will likely refer to 4G1series in fb ; more traffic there.
I have tried Jasma one, Pipercam one, before finally settling on a custom matspeed one. Overall jasma and pipe not much difference, piper feels better at higher rpm but jasma has better midrange power. But different intake and exhaust setup will yield different results.
No harm trying the jasma one. Get an adjustable pulley and advance slightly.. definitely can feel difference over stock cam.
powerzone good. but price at 460. mfa also more or less dat number. rm400+-
yeah powerzone extractor is proven stuff but if you want to feel more difference take the opportunity to change end to end exhaust. put one large s flow at the end enough, find a silent one cap ayam also ok. piping 1.8 inch should be fine. midbox no need la.. save money
some people say straight flow better but noisy, s-flow quieter but sluggish acceleration... i'm confused. Can clarify ?
But i went to an exhaust shop today, an old uncle also recommend s-flow for pickup.
Today try survey extractor in my hometown....the shop i went got a 'cap ayam' 421 extractor for iswara about RM150 inc. installation, without flexible pipe aka 'nenas'. the bends look like pressed, not a mandrel. nope. going to survey more shops....if no choice, fork out RM300 for mfa's extractor.
Extra question... Regarding radiator, 2morrow will change timing belt and water pump....wanna flush my rusty radiator....but before or after water pump replacement? (Also summon Quazacolt )
Generally straight flow is better at the expense of noise. For me, I'm using a straight flow but with a midbox to reduce the drone a bit. S flow and slight increase in piping size will do for initial upgrades, not that much difference with straight flow actually and much less noise. Cap ayam 4-2-1 also should be better than stock, together with piping and muffler change should be able to feel the car rev more freely.
Brief report about cap ayam extractors to low yat 82jedi_master and all sifus & members here! Today I changed my stock manifold to 4-2-1 extractor with flexible pipe 'nenas' with damage of RM230...But its an ordinary steel material not the stainless steel one.
The brand is ALCRO. I thought it was Wegow. The shop owner said wegow already slow down in business, perhaps bankrupt already. I dunno.
But the bends are still quite decent, the extractor itself is solid and thick steel. Compared to other shop's brandless cap ayam extractor that i surveyed the other day.....RM 150 without flexible pipe aka nenas but lightweight..... knocking the body sounds like tin milo ( i exaggerated a bit ) but you know the idea.
The extractor pic:
Before the welding.....the stock pipe is much smaller. Upgrade to 1.7" later?
After installation: Comments: Pickup noticeably lighter. Driving with 3 passengers now feels like driving alone when still using stock manifold. Now my right foot feels heavy. Before buy a budget cap ayam extractor....check the thickness of metals, the pipe bends decent or not. Cap ayam mods is just pure luck, i would say. If got money, as all sifus said....recommended to go for reputable manufacturer. Sure won't regret.
Thanks bro! Now continue completing exhaust system upgrades after got enough budget.
My current rusted muffler got holes....added 1 big hole i accidentally poked during extractor upgrades. now sound like cheap straight flow oredi. haha.... I have 1 minor issue which is stalling/jerking 1-2 seconds after ignition off. Sometimes it occurs, sometimes not. After reading through previous owners experiences, it's between rich mixture or solenoid kong.
So...wanna try carb tune first. The back of carb is the air mixture right? Is it turning clockwise or anticlockwise for leaner mixture? Due to sometimes occur only, do you think the solenoid kong or not?
Your car is dieseling. It should occur when your engine is hot maybe after a long drive or so. Basically your fuel is still being ignited even though your plug is not firing. Its common in our cars.
Many things can be done. Timing/idle readjust should solve it coupled with carb re tune. Or maybe can consider carbon cleaning as well.
This post has been edited by jedi_master: Mar 17 2015, 07:51 AM
My carb tuning never been kacauing me other than, overhaul job, change from 4toto back to stock - whilst other surroundings been upgraded such as valve springs, lifts, and also weird setup of exhaust system Other than the mentioned, the carb has been always running on the same setting after got out from the O2 reader and or dyno machine Do you get what I mean?
Bro, what 4 toto you use before and how come change back to stock?
Looks very much like this 1, dun have trumpet, but got adapter came together to fit external air filter.
By the name of SOLEX, seldom heard of it. According to previous owner, was detached from motorcycle. Originally came with an adapter for 4AGE, so my magician sent the 4toto to machine shop, bring along a stock intake manifold from chop shop and had it fabricate a special adapter for my 4G13.
Reason for downgrading? Partly due to waifu make noise, fuel price hike if you remember there was 1 point fuel price raised up to 2.70 where nobody can tahan. Call me an idiot, sold the whole set for RM400 which that point of time really have no intention to pursue on performance anymore.
Ooo.. nice. I also retired from 4 toto last year but mine was silvertop setup with trumpets. It was quite fun I guess especially beyond 5000 rpm but in the end still went back to single throttle body.
QUOTE(zedyll @ Mar 18 2015, 02:05 AM)
Thanks bro for the advice!
Story before dieseling occurs.....
First, i went for carb tuning (no machine aka manual ) to reduce my FC....since my exhaust emits black sooty smoke everytime i press the gas pedal and FC is hella high! (RM20 [RM2/L] for 60km)
After carb tuning, used the car about a week with good FC. But 1 problem emerges....pinging sound when accelerate. I went to my mechanics to tune ignition timing with timing light. The pinging almost gone except when climbing hills with with a slight pinging. My mech said slight pinging knock is okay. No dieseling problem yet.
Then, i went DIY changing the o-ring of distributor since there's quite of oil leaks. The distributor position was marked with correction pen. After finished replacing o-ring, i turned the distributor slightly 1-2mm anticlockwise (from marked position) therefore retarding timing some more. No more pinging even at hills.
Then, the dieseling started occuring occasionally.
How old are your plugs? If its due or nearly due for change, maybe just change them. Might be a quick fix, nothing to lose.
This post has been edited by jedi_master: Mar 18 2015, 08:46 AM
Frankly, the 4toto experience was all about responses. And yeah, especially after 5krpm. The trouble is, my 4G13 ran out of breathe at about 6.5krpm. Despite having enough fuel after tuned up the carbs, it can still tarek all the way beyond 8krpm, I don't feel the sprint anymore. Do you get the idea of from 1k ~ 4krpm tarak VTEK, after 5K rpm it goes very smooth and back stickingly fast. But after 6.5k rpm, the backsticking feel gone According to magician, the valve train already topped out. The birds already standing at the fence where the stock cam aren't pushing hard enough. Even if we change the cam, a good chance where the valve spring isn't strong enough to retrace the valves any faster, a chance where the valve meets piston is there where standing at 8krpm Added, a friend of mine whose running on reinforced valve spring, customized billet cam blown the valve hell out of the rocker, smashed through the bonnet I was lucky to not dig into that deep before I realized I'm spending money into a black hole. 1st gear 8krpm, shift to 2nd ady 6krpm, tarik until 8k, upshift again on 3rd, again stuck at 6krpm++. It feels like totally out of power band. The car isn't going any faster other than the intake and exhaust screaming very nicely, sounding like a real VTEK.
The good thing that I realized after switched back to stock pistoned carbs, it isn't going much slower then when I was 4toto. My tuning was set to the lean side according to the external CO sensor. With slightly retarded ignition, the entire powerband has been switched over to low/mid end. However, the valvelifts has been further released. I wasn't sure why magician set it up that way, but was told due to lean setup and early torque band, the loosen valvelifts will help to sustain inertia during cruising. True enough, the setup gave me a consistent of 13km/l on a regular basis despite the horrible KL traffics. On straight hiway drive back and fro JB will easily yield me 18km/l and above.
It feels like this Very spontaneous. Good response. Very driveable.
Yeah I get it. I went through 3 different cams of increasingly higher duration on my 4 toto. The first cam was mid range torque 27x duration, upgrading to 28x one gave 4-5 whp across the upper band, finally settled on a 29x one, coupled with custom exhaust header finally worked well with the 4 toto's high end love, yielded 20 whp gain between 5000 to 7500 rpm.. Basically I came to conclude that 4 toto on our engine no point except for high revving, and that also must have large cams and well designed exhaust header to unlock its potential. But low end suffers.
And that was it, now back to 1 toto mode. Still using the 29x cam though. No more issue with low-mid range power.
Seriously? "Pretty souped up"? This video's 0-100 is about 10-11 seconds. My previous LMST (which I unfortunately and sadly have to part with), does it in 9 - 9.5 seconds. I think i still have the 0-100 video that i recorded before i sold it haha.. Should post it up someday. I do miss that car and manual tranny. But if you ask me if I wanna own a saga lmst again? .... Nah.
Previous incarnation of my Iswara was with weber, 87 whp/13.3 kgm. 0-100 was around 10-11 seconds, very similar to this video. After switching to 4 toto (and different cams, etc.), hit around 110 whp and the speedo goes much faster than that, but a lot of wheelspin between gears 2 and 3 becomes quite unavoidable.
Wow weber! haven't heard that word in awhile .. Weber was the one thing I always wanted to try for my LMST last time, but never got the chance. Heard that FC was high, and maintaining it was troublesome. (Or was that twin weber, i forgot.)
Shouldn't weber do much better than 10-11 seconds? I thought weber gives some good power.
What's a 4 toto ?
Looking back at old videos, 10-11 secs was with 2 guys in the car, slow launch and careful shifting.. so maybe there was room for improvement. 4 toto - individual throttle bodies. I swapped my weber to a fuel injected setup with open throttles, trumpets without air filter. New setup lost some low end but massive gains in the top rpm range. Never recorded a 0-100 on video, but definitely much faster.
good stuff bro. i'm tempted to get a straight flow myself as i want to reduce noise. anyone here know of places with good selection of jdm original branded mufflers? dont want used items.
The meter will also misbehave even the car is on idling... but that only happens once in a while... I'll give a try on checking the autochoke... by the way could this autochoke make the car so shaky all these while?
This car do have some symptoms of bad autochoke previously like the engine will die off during cold start and engine behave normally after engine becomes warm.... but now is shaky all the time especially RPM is around 1.5k
Don't think it's your ignition, just a flat spot in your carb tuning causing your engine to run lean at that rpm range. The lean spike would result backfiring of exhaust as well. Actually you can just get someone to rev your car to the problematic range, and adjust the air/fuel screw on the carb until the problem just goes away, but don't over compensate.
Yeah likely is carb related. Do get it checked. Also equally possible is that you have a vacuum leak somewhere. But that's a bit harder to check sadly..
aluminimized steel as they called it, which can be wiki'd lol
pricing seem to stay the same for so many years... really tempted to get mine done. so far they ran out of stock, so have to wait la. i am whatsapp'ing with amrie
Dec 8 2014, 12:09 PM
. Will likely refer to 4G1series in fb ; more traffic there.
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going to survey more shops....if no choice, fork out RM300 for mfa's extractor. 
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According to magician, the valve train already topped out. The birds already standing at the fence where the stock cam aren't pushing hard enough. Even if we change the cam, a good chance where the valve spring isn't strong enough to retrace the valves any faster, a chance where the valve meets piston is there where standing at 8krpm 
Very spontaneous. Good response. Very driveable.
I do miss that car and manual tranny. But if you ask me if I wanna own a saga lmst again? .... Nah.
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