Dec 29 2014, 05:57 PM
QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 29 2014, 05:45 PM)
generally what rojak posted.
to add on:
can check the oil from the ATF (if auto, atf = auto transmission fluid)/engine dip sticks.
if too watery or too thick/viscous, should take caution.
for engine oil/atf check if it has odd colors/murkish look/texture.
if it does, avoid the car entirely as it will require an overhaul as coolant is mixed with the lubricant, be it from the engine or the radiator (ATF will flow through radiator for cooling)
Check the mileage/service stickers or markings (some of them are left behind carelessly
) and see if there are overdue items.
can also see if the rpm if idling stable and how is the air cond quality/rpm after compressor kicks in.
FYI if all parts are original denso, iswara air cond is very capable of sub 5 or even sub zero temperatures on a good day upon full load.
so needless to say, typically the temperature knob is set to almost off position
anything more than half i would be cautious also as full air cond part replacement for original denso is 2-2.5k+
If auto, the bottom mountings (afaik they are called torque mountings) can be obtained for between rm100-200 for both pieces ORIGINAL proton.
however if for auto, they will have gaps/made softer to accommodate for jerkiness/lesser power of the auto transmission. this is good and all however it means that it will wear off very fast and chances are if you're looking at an auto car it's most likely torn.
Not expensive to replace, however consider filling the gaps with PU (Polyurethane, can find easily from hardware stores) when you buy new ones, let it cure before replacing.
sometimes, the coolant wouldn't be so obvious on leaks, so maybe pay attention if there are any drastic reduction from the coolant overflow tank/reservoir or if there are water/coolant stains from the water pump/hoses/connection parts.
same goes for engine oil/ATF/manual gear oil (much rare case for manual gear oil) leaks.
may check also on drive shaft boots if they are torn.
oem/non ori are cheap, 180-250 per piece however ori will be around/1k per piece
do full lock to lock (steering turn to max) turns and try to accelerate while doing it and see if there are any knocking noise.
may also check on steering response to find faults on steering rack/rack end/tie rod end/bushing wear and tear.
not expensive parts however it will take some time to troubleshoot/replace.
hmm i wonder if i miss out anything... maybe will add them if i can think of more.
perhaps sifu davidke20 (own only second hand cars) nestum (tire/suspension sifu)
wa sifu
Bai VIOS plis to add on:
can check the oil from the ATF (if auto, atf = auto transmission fluid)/engine dip sticks.
if too watery or too thick/viscous, should take caution.
for engine oil/atf check if it has odd colors/murkish look/texture.
if it does, avoid the car entirely as it will require an overhaul as coolant is mixed with the lubricant, be it from the engine or the radiator (ATF will flow through radiator for cooling)
Check the mileage/service stickers or markings (some of them are left behind carelessly
) and see if there are overdue items.can also see if the rpm if idling stable and how is the air cond quality/rpm after compressor kicks in.
FYI if all parts are original denso, iswara air cond is very capable of sub 5 or even sub zero temperatures on a good day upon full load.
so needless to say, typically the temperature knob is set to almost off position
anything more than half i would be cautious also as full air cond part replacement for original denso is 2-2.5k+
If auto, the bottom mountings (afaik they are called torque mountings) can be obtained for between rm100-200 for both pieces ORIGINAL proton.
however if for auto, they will have gaps/made softer to accommodate for jerkiness/lesser power of the auto transmission. this is good and all however it means that it will wear off very fast and chances are if you're looking at an auto car it's most likely torn.
Not expensive to replace, however consider filling the gaps with PU (Polyurethane, can find easily from hardware stores) when you buy new ones, let it cure before replacing.
sometimes, the coolant wouldn't be so obvious on leaks, so maybe pay attention if there are any drastic reduction from the coolant overflow tank/reservoir or if there are water/coolant stains from the water pump/hoses/connection parts.
same goes for engine oil/ATF/manual gear oil (much rare case for manual gear oil) leaks.
may check also on drive shaft boots if they are torn.
oem/non ori are cheap, 180-250 per piece however ori will be around/1k per piece
do full lock to lock (steering turn to max) turns and try to accelerate while doing it and see if there are any knocking noise.
may also check on steering response to find faults on steering rack/rack end/tie rod end/bushing wear and tear.
not expensive parts however it will take some time to troubleshoot/replace.
hmm i wonder if i miss out anything... maybe will add them if i can think of more.
perhaps sifu davidke20 (own only second hand cars) nestum (tire/suspension sifu)
wa sifu
Quote
Medan selera is just right there at the same compound. Freakin konvenien dou 
bikin mana? berapa kena itu 2pot? Belakang disc berak cut & paste or mirage axle? Berapa kena itu belakang disc berak? 
EBO3 is PCD100 wor, unless GSR. But GSR is 1pod not 2, coz lastaim I was using GSR. Also surveyed other possibilities such as Chery Eastar, but same case like EBO brakes, the front part bearing hub kenot fit into the knuckle unless whole knuckle changed, which is what I did to fit in the GSR beraks. Even the tie rod end had to redrill the knuckle baru can fit back in. After that camber all lari kuat² must use ejes kao kao baru can straight. So ayam now puzzled, the rear axle where got mounting point for disc berak caliper leh? If dun got how to plonk disc berak at the back geh 
Once the driver door was restored, came to know the rear passenger door is not damaged. The only reason it doesn't trigger was because it's a slave from the driver door. If driver door doesn't trigger, the rest of the doors won't. Since I saw good result on the driver door, yesterday begun on the passenger door. After "treatment", it doesn't fully restore! But atleast now out of 10 will have once or twice got response 
I'm anticipating another treatment when I'm free to see whether I can fully restore it.
Go and find the 1 I posted. If not mistaken it was RM15/bottle. It's not cheap I know, but it does the job brilliantly. It conduct, penetrate, lubricate, yet still repel water 
0.1555sec
0.45
7 queries
GZIP Disabled