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Old thread: http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/703675

This post has been edited by VincC454: Apr 21 2010, 11:57 AM

im building a MG gundam HD ver.

im not familiar how the water decals or dry decals looks like..

i have applied some on my finished gundam, but not sure whether it's the dry or water... it's just a normal clear sticker that sticks on the plastic part ... but once i applied it, i cant take it off .. kinda if i messed and aligned it senget, nothing i can do about it.. either leave it or peel it off and throw away..

and what top coat is good for white parts? where can i buy it?

Those r stickers..... basically u cannot readjust once u stick it onto surface. However, recent few issues of dengeki hobby had been teaching this again n again..... put some water on the surface of your kit before apply the sticker, with the water trap in between the sticker n surface, u still can readjust the sticker position a little.

HD version should come with a set of waterslide decal. The best way is to cut bit of unwanted part out, use water to test, if not coming out, try dry transfer method.

Dont ask how to do water slide and dry transfer, want to know, go check out v3 of this thread....

guys, another thing. how much different is mr hobby thinner from their paint remover? its almost the same thing right?

thanks for the explanation..
perhaps im gonna take few more pix later tonite...

btw, here a guide i found on the net...
for applying water slide decals..

my MG Unicorn HD have these 2 type of decals... can somebody clarify abit more on how these 2 works and the best way to apply them... thanksss...

the green on is just a clear sticker...so just peel and paste
and the other one is dry sticker(Gores dan menang) lolx...is a decal that u have to scratch to applied at the
surface body

1st cut carefully the dry decal
2nd place on top of the parts u want to applied(look at the manual instructions which part to applied decals)
3rd take a tape..cut it about 4cm long and stick it on top of the decal...make sure is not lose
lastly scratch it until it stick to the body ..and peel it off...
Here a simple video how to apply
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRZ31smDJHM

i like to use water base decals...but lazy to find it

hope this help

p.s...i think this method have been already post at some old threads...

This post has been edited by HazardXZ: Apr 22 2010, 01:46 AM

thanks so much...
i searched on ebay for water decals and found 1...

im just a noobie... hehe

so that's the dry decal which only have 1 shot of applying it... the process for sure gonna be a suspense thrill for me...

orestes, if u free, try visit
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/488910
it pinned above all thread, try check on it
and here...might help u
http://kusakusa.wordpress.com/2008/08/13/h...o-apply-decals/

thankss... the kusaku blog definitely helps alot...

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Added on April 22, 2010, 9:52 ambtw.... yeah, the sticker decals tend to look abit unnatural....
if i want to remove it, do they have any tools or cleaner to do it?
just peeling it off will leave sticky marks ... and the brush it off, will need to rub it ... risky if accidentally hard pressure it while rubbing, might break something...

any polisher or anything to clean them?

This post has been edited by orestes: Apr 22 2010, 09:52 AM

Try use blue tag for sticker stain. it might work. or even masking tape.

As for how to apply sticker, with the aid of water, that really helps in adjusting the position.

U from KL? There r quite some places offer after market decal. no need ebay....

This post has been edited by rayloke: Apr 22 2010, 12:41 PM

anyone had any idea on what paint should i use to paint my PG strike inner frame...

Why is the hand painting so hard!!!?? I'm using the Mr hobby Oil based paint. Anyone can intro some good tutorial or just telling me the step in an easy way. THANKS!!

Is there is someone here paint their GUNPLA with marker ?
i have been using Gundam marker silver but its outcome is not satisfly
the color look more like gray not shinny enough
any other marker (no need to be gundam marker) can bring out chrome or at least shinny silver ? thx

using markers or handpainting usually results in uneven paintjob...

for those flat wider surface, markers or handpaint using brush could be done at ease... better control of the strokes and can avoid multiple layered strokes ...

but for complicated and hard to reach surface, will be different story... using airbrush should solve the problem.. but then, not everyone can afford a good airbrush...

if you guys serious to model your gundam to result a clean nice wicked built, invest abit for airbrush ..
markers only good for touch ups...

ya but so far onli can afford marker

Hi guys, anyone know where still got sell tamiya paint and chrome stickers? I have used Mr. Color but faced a big problem. Thanks

i also have nooby quest

1. 1st step is primer right? going for flat look

2. after prime leave to dry till when?

3. once dried start painting right? * is it paint in runner or we cut from runner ?how long do i wait til dried?

4. any links or guide to masking ? i sucked at it.messed up my destiny

4. im using lacquer. so any good formular to combine with the thineer lacquer or is it recommend mr levelling thinner? n hw much paint do i need to take from the bottle?

5. after this panel line right? is it recommend using gundam marker? ( wont it be messy coz cnt rub off excess) or should i use the thinner n pmarker trick.saw at google. but he tried on plastic.not sure.heres link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-n5-urZKIs

6. after this is top coat. and thats it right? ( mr surfacer 1000)

7. would u guys recommend painting or spray can the gundam? thanks

8. oh and i tried painting before.so many brushstrokes.whats wrg? doesnt look neat




ive googled alot oledi.il post this in this forum n painting etc

tq ppl gonna start soon so just need tips



This post has been edited by Ridt_Henshin: Apr 27 2010, 01:55 PM

You can try AFHobby. There got alot of Tamiya colors and Gaia Notes colors also. Else you can try Hobby HQ, although they don't carry Tamiya anymore, but they have humbrol (another color brand).

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Added on April 27, 2010, 11:58 pmThis post has been edited by inquisytor: Apr 27 2010, 11:58 PM

wat different softeren n settle
which i should use for water slide decal
thx for answer

Ridt_Henshin: I think inquisytor has already answered all of your question well; but i would like to add a word or two, in the context of modeling.

See, modeling, though is not art, but many of them do come close to art. Take for example the question about painting n thinning the paint; during school time when we do water color painting in kelas lukisan, would anyone of us asked the cikgu "berapa air saya kena tambah dalam water color saya?" Might sound as crude, i would say this is one of the stupidest question ever exist. As inquisytor said, it depends on what u want. too thin? add more paint or wait a while, too thick? add more thinner.

Same thing goes to modeling paint. So people, please do take note.

As for painting, same thing either it's hand paint, spray can, air brush. One needs practice, practice, and practice; exactly like what u did in art class painting a water color picture. The medium is just a medium, technique is just a technique. It's the skill that makes a difference.





ken3230: Hahah I will quote inquisytor "this has been answered 2 million times...." Do check out the previous version of this thread and u will find the answer. Basically, setter does melt the decal a little, and with some adhesive elemenet in it. So it's usually at the bottom. Softener, as its name, soften the decal but melting it. Usually applied on top...

cant realy understand
hear tis b4
settler use on flat surface
softerner use on like "longkang" surface
izit true ??

Model thinner can remove paints and etc things on your kit. It can erase your gundam marker but depends what type(lacquer or acrylic) it is using..
You'll have to becareful too as too much thinner will "clean" more than you need...
Model thinner can get in in hobby shops, please check the pinned threads for more information.

actually both can use on flat surface but yes softerner is for "longkang" surface..
Both of these are meant for decals(sticker/water type)
Softerner can remove the "bubbles" in the decal... settler also can but not as much as softerner..

so u guy use softerner more than settler ??
or juz use softerner

IT depends on what decals you are using...
i used settlers, have never used softerners... i will use them in the future to reduce the "silvering" on my decals...

if i m using water slide decal ?
wat do u mean by "silvering"

hmm.. actually both also can la..just both different uses. like you said the "longkang" then softerner will be the suitable one

As for silvering
it's the side of the decal where you can see the "white", something like not "sticking" properly...
I don't really know how to explain it... showing a picture would be easier...

so both get the same result but softerner got extra function (use on longkang surface) ??

This post has been edited by ken3230: Apr 28 2010, 09:52 PM

not exactly...
take from pinned thread...
Decal Softener
This liquid makes decal soft and conform to the surface it is stuck on. Usually on a gloss surface across the panel lines, the decal is cut and this liquid is brushed on to let the decal stick in the insides of the line to make it look painted on

hm...since i not going to paint my whole GUNPLA glossy
so does tat mean i should use settler
another question normaly top coat will tahan how long ?
enough for 2 MG kits ?

thank u bro.u answered alot of my question...

and lastly what do u mean layer by layer?i need to paint many times over it?

p/s

do u paint or dab dab at the plastic? like touch2? argh hard to explain.souded gay also hahah X D

thanks for the help guys

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Added on April 29, 2010, 12:03 amthanks bro.cant wait to buy stuff n try.lots of kits waiting.lol

This post has been edited by Ridt_Henshin: Apr 29 2010, 12:03 AM

using setter will create silvering problems. I never use it. always use softer even on flat surface. if not use softer the decal will have wrinkle problem most of the time.

guys.. for those who still been confusing over the usage of Mr. mark softer and setter, let me say one more final comment.

Both Mr. Mark softer and mark setter are meant for troublesome water-slide decal application.
Basically IF YOU DON'T HAVE PROBLEM with your water slide decal, don't trouble yourself getting it and get confuse over the usage different between the two.
All new water slide decal shall work nicely if applied properly WITHOUT Mr. Mark softer or setter.

PROBLEMATIC DECALS:
1) decals fail to adhere or keep lifting up after drying = Mark setter
2) decals fail to conform to complicated surface (raise area, panel line, hole, etc) = Mark softer



If you got silvering(patches that looks like mini bubble trap beneath decal), more likely the surface is matt/uneven/not gloss.
Make sure surface is always gloss and not matt before decal application.

NOTE:
Mark Softer is more potent and may cause your water slide decal to WRINKLE. This is NORMAL. Just leave Mark softer to do its job once applied, never touch until it's fully dried.

thx for the advise
how about the top coat
wonder 1 bottle top coat enough for my sinanju n unicorn

Dont think Gunze will produce a product just to make your decal looks ugly. Mark setter wont and not a cause for silvering. In fact, it reduce silvering.

guys...whats the diff for tamiya epoxy putty and other epoxy??

One Canspray or One Paint bottle(for airbrushing)?
For flat coat usually won't consume that much, so maybe can (both canspray or 10ml).
Again depend how thick you need your topcoat to be.
To be safe, get 2.

For top GLOSS COAT, confirm not enough as you need a thicker build up for gloss.
Canspray also got more wastage if compare airbrushing.


BRAND diff
PRICE diff
AVAILABILITY diff

anyme, what difference you want to know?

Can I ask you, whats the diff for tamiya acrylic paint and other acrylic paint??

Be specific with what you want to ask, if can compare with something you intended to use against tamiya epoxy putty.
Even there's few diff tamiya epoxy putty > http://www.hlj.com/hljlist2/?Word=tamiya%2...%20putty&Dis=-2.
Which one are you refering to?

ehh...sorry guys... i miss something...

want to ask about epoxy smooth surface and others epoxy...

sorry.... my bad...

This post has been edited by anyme: Apr 29 2010, 04:14 PM

tutorial to Start GunPla-ing
i noticed that the thread doesn't have anything on brush + hand painting
need a sifu to add sumthing there. since im not a pro myself. & also most of the sifu here is upgraded to airbrush
for example: what brush to use? what thinner brand to remove the paint from brush & the dish?

as far as my experience goes. factory thinner on the mr. hobby paints = instant peel off (literally) but not my brush as the paint still have some stick on it. i even used my fingernails to remove them.(i think i might be damaging the brush instead)

hobby thinner = lighten the color, diluting the paint slowly from the brush. but still use quite a lot of volume to fully remove the paint from the brush. i even tried using hobby thinner on a dish, dip the brush in & rub it with my fingers. then i will need to do this 2 - 3 times to get the paint fully out from the brush.

is what im doing wrong?

hi guys. i'm thinking of building my gundam with below method. (no painting)

1. panel line + decal STRAIGHT FROM THE RUNNER
2. top coat (flat for my case)
3. cut out from the runner and trim
4. assemble
5. final topcoat (flat for my case again)

haven't try the method yet but will buy a cheap HG for experiment Hope some sifu can give me some guide. thanks in advance

just like how i did ...

amateur like us, just straight away build laa...
but if you want a clean built, have a sandpaper and filer.. to smoothen the surface and nubs...
get a few color markers also; good for touch ups
then build everything carefully ... read the manual closely ..
you will have a nice result ..

the top coat is a plus ... flat is always recommendable ... gloss or semi gloss not suitable for gundams ... the shines doesnt appeal on gundams..

If you got good budget, get yourself a bottle of Mr. Tool Cleaner. Expensive but effective.
Alternative, what I do is get a bottle of industrial cleaner. RM2 for a 500ml bottle ^^ Pour into a small bowl, the soak your brush into it. Stir it abit. Be gentle not to spoil the brush. Then run your brush over running tap water. This should remove most of the paint. Don;t expect to remove all the paint, that's not very possible. Your brush will still look stain after this.

If you are cleaning it right after you use, and you are using lacquer paint, normal water can clean de. THe paint will become rubbery once it touch water. Then u can peel the paint off.

Just remember to clean your brush right after using, dun be lazy like me and leave the brush so long until the paint all harden. But even after the paint harden, the brush still can be clean using the above mention method.

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/871...k_fit/index.htm

anyone here using tis ?
recomended by the shopkeeper
dunno izit realy gud as he said

^ The descirption sounds like Mr. Mark Softener. I assume it's the same thing, just different brand.

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Added on April 30, 2010, 3:48 pmThis post has been edited by inquisytor: Apr 30 2010, 03:48 PM

bro inquisytor

your explanation do make sense.. i will keep that in mind.. thanks again

probably i will try like this

1. panel line STRAIGHT FROM THE RUNNER
2. spray a thin layer of gloss/semi gloss coat to protect panel lining
3. cut out from the runner
4. file or sand the nub OR use design knife to trim then use gundam marker to touch up if necessary.
4. assemble and apply decal
5. final topcoat (flat for my case again)

This post has been edited by stanleysum: Apr 30 2010, 04:53 PM

lol the shopkeeper said it was a "combine" of settler n softerner

guys, where can i find these in KL area? really need it at the moment >_<;; and how much are they? Coz i got go to the hobby shops at Ceneleisure and they don't have any

btw, i get the idea on how to use the spray type, just spray it over. but how bout the bottle type? i don't own an airbrush, but will normal brushes work? how bout its thinner level?





This post has been edited by golbeza: Apr 30 2010, 07:59 PM

i might sound very "potong stim" here.......

Resin kit is much harder to handle than injection kit (Bandai HG, MG r injection plastic kit). In addition, resin usually cause a lot more than injection kit. For now i would recommend u stick to injection kit first, cause to make a resin kit nice, in the most basic level, u need quite some tools n material.....

However, it's still up to u, it's your kit.

Anyway, for your question, i think i used to see resin primer (The first picture) in Time Machine. Go check out there. If not, go back to the shop that sell you the resin; they should carry it. Cause unlike injection kit, resin kit must be painted (unless u like your display kit too look yellow.... without any color). And painting on resin kit must be cleaned thoroughly and almost 100% must have primer to help the paint grab onto the surface.

If the shop not selling primer but just resin kit to his customer....... mebbe u can request them to help you order some primer in.


For the second picture, it's a tamiya gray surfacer/primer. U can get that from tamiya underground. For this surfacer/primer, i recommend u used Gunze/ Mr hobby's; easier to find in town. Many model shops carry it.

hi guys, I have two Gundam Marker Chrome Silver... When I first started to use them, they worked very well, very nice chrome and all but now when I use them they give me a VERY DARK GUNMETAL color instead! Why is this happening ???

^Did you shake the marker well first before using?

Yeah, I shaked it very well, until it flows out perfectly but it still isn't chrome silver??? D:

i guess those that flow out is thinner.. somehow the chrome silver must have been gone through hardening process.
this happen to those long time no use marker. especially when u put at 1 place & never touch it at all for months. happen to 1 of my marker as well.

so sad... Is there a way to restore it ?

^hmm ... this don't really hapen to me. I had some markers too for touch up purpose ... usually after i shake it it's okay. Sorry, no solution here from me >_<

thanks inquisytor for your info

buy new markers... or settle with its gunmetal effect...

Alright, thanks for the help guys, I guess I got a metallic gunmetal marker now hahaha

Bro maybe you ur marker reach "due date" or you have used your marker without shaking them even last time ~ Most likely the metallic flakes gone d. But, my bro last time did bought a white marker ~ only can use a little bit then only left the transparent liquid flow out ~ wasted $$

Same also happen to my white marker but the ball bearing suddenly stop rattling.Wonder can pour thinner into it?

haha bro its kinda hard open the cover, i opened one of mine till rosak d Super tight !

Yeah, only little bit.. but impossible my luck with markers so bad mahh XD I bought two lehhe XD

i dunno my white gundam marker got problem or not. i can't paint white on color area at all.... i think is too thin or what... whenever i painted on a color area.... it can't seems to cover it at all... u can always see the original color there... haizz....

i guess that's where primer become handy

hey guys,

Just a quick question. I just completed my very first PG 00 Raiser. I planned to top coat the entire kit with a FLAT coating.

There are some parts which has the transparent plastic ( eg :- Joints of the leg / arms which has the green transparent plastic ), I was just wondering if anybody knows if I should remove those parts and TOP coat it or leave it on ?

I wonder if the transparent plastic gets blurry after being sprayed by coats?

Any answer will be much appreciated.

dante_cool

I just spray some topcoat on my Kyrios and the transparent orb seems to get blurry. So maybe you can just take it off if it's easy or just use some tape to mask that area

waa.. does that mean need to use primer before applying white color on color surface every time? even gundam marker, hand brush and AB too? i just been lazy and just need to touch up with some white color on a very small portion on the kit... i guess i need to go buy a bottle of tamiya white color and a thinner and some brushes.... try it on the runner and see whether can resolve my problem or not ..

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Added on May 3, 2010, 2:31 pmgood thing u bring up as i'm planning to do this too but never thought on the clear parts issue.. will start my PG 00 project soon

This post has been edited by stanleysum: May 3 2010, 02:31 PM

Hi Guys,

I am wondering if anyone knows where I can get the Ic socket in Penang? Been looking for it but most shops don't have or don't even know what is is...

http://www.ghostofzeon.com/diy/thrusters/smallthrust.html

Any help appreciated.

Thanks

I've search quite a few electronics shop and so far I only manage to find 1 shop at pasar road (KL) which still have stocks for this. Good luck in getting this in penang thou.

Bro, clear is (a kind of resin) used for top coat. when u add flat base, a type of micro particle, into clear, it will make the surface become more uneven after dried. Meaning a rough surface, aka flat. add a bit, gloss will become semi gloss; add more it will become flat.

So since flat is add some micro particle into clear, it means the not 100% transparent micro part will disturb light reflecting to our eyes. In short, yes, for transparent part, flat coat will make it blurr.....

and fyi, if u want your kit to look nice, always, always spray or top coat your kit part by part. the smaller u part them, the better. reduce the risk of frosting to the minimum.

hi guys,

Thank you everyone for their reply. Will be a problem for me to dissamble and topcoat it. I might try using maskin tape on those clear areas before I spray it.

On the other hand ,w ould it be the same for Gundam with gold coating ( Akatsuki ) ? I have yet to top coat the entire gundam , fear it might ruin the golden parts .

Anyone topcoated their akatsuki gundam before ?

Cheers

dante_cool

Wah, what for need to topcoat a chromed gundam ?

If you have not painted your Akatsuki before which it came originally then leave it... Top coating it can ruin it..
Unless you have painted the gold yourself

Try first on the left-over sprue which has been gold/chromed.

If the color does not change means ok.
But will turn flat, which may not be up to ur liking.
Always test first before using.

From what I know, paint doesnt stick to chrome easily, your topcoat "may" flakes off easily, especially if handled too often.

wow, thanks lots for the info , another question about the resin primer in bottle wan, is it advisable if i prime it by brush instead of putting it inside airbrush?

Hi Inquisytor,

Thanks for the lead. Do you have the name of the shop so that I can get my Kl colleague to buy for me.

Thanks

hi guys,

Thanks for all your replies.

Reason for coating is I have decal on the Akatsuki Gold Chrome. I read on the forums and it was noted that decal will fall off after sometime if TOP coat is not applied .

Thanks

I think rayloke's answer is not that straightforward.
The anwer will be NO.
Get the spray can type if you don't own an airbrush.
But what's the point of doing a resin kit if you don't own an airbrush.
Resin kits aren't cheap and it's really not easy trying to handpaint a resin kit.


You may consider a gloss topcoat if you want a gloss bling bling gold

This post has been edited by erh_teo: May 4 2010, 01:06 PM

Yeah i agree with erh_teo, i wouldn't advise to brush it on. For an expensive resin kit, it's just very "sayang" to see it being treated that way.....

This is based on assumption that your resin kit is a bigger one, either mecha or japanese anime based character, which both is preferred to be painted with smooth finishing without weathering.

Probably the only type of resin i could imagine proper to be fully hand painted would be those small, miniature figures. Eg, a 1/24 human figure with quite some washing n weathering.......

I dunno the name of the shop. But it's located at the end of the street. A shops that sells alot of electronics component (but all the shop there sells more or less the same thing ).

i just bought a archer gundam, this my first time. Coz i dislike the colour, should i paint it before assemble it or after???

hi.. i just bought a Mr.Super Clear (Flat) and test spray on my very old SD kit and giving me frosting effect? I wonder why. is it my method or the product i bought is faulty?

i think u spray it too close n too thick.

what is the suggested distance? i spray about 1 1/2 feet away. some guide is appreciated or maybe i press too hard when spray?? i think i press too hard...

This post has been edited by stanleysum: May 5 2010, 08:07 PM

The distance is good enough. If im not mistaken its called frosting. It happens if your room is to humid. U sprayed indoor or outdoor? To avoid this u should soak your spray into warm water for couple of minutes.

Don't forget to shake well and spray from left to right, right to left method...
Spraying too think will also cause frosting

Humid? i think so because just now got rain over here... and i spray in my apartment yard area.. i guess consider outdoor already..

left to right then right to left? i keep that in mind.

i think i will try again on a sunny day and see the result again i still got 1 more very old HG to test on it

Never ever use flat topcoat during and right after rain. Confirm cause frosting. Do it only on a nice sunny day

thanks for the tip. lesson learn here and also thanks to all sifu who responded to my issue

excuse me, I would like to ask whether how to make red line on the trans am model?? coz it is so small I don't think there's small red marker, right?

search for panel line wash with enamel.

Acrylic also can be use right?

No.... enamel most suitable because you need the flow of the paint

Drop by Famitoy earlier and bought this.

how much is the price? i've been planning to get 1. but planning budget carefully

^ shuden this be discuss in the gundam & mecha forum instead

Erm, I'm new to painting, and i need help seriously for hg reborns gundam...>.<

i couldn't mix the clear purple colour out for the transparent chest, any solution for that?

i'll appreciate that very much...>.<