using setter will create silvering problems. I never use it. always use softer even on flat surface. if not use softer the decal will have wrinkle problem most of the time.

guys.. for those who still been confusing over the usage of Mr. mark softer and setter, let me say one more final comment.

Both Mr. Mark softer and mark setter are meant for troublesome water-slide decal application.
Basically IF YOU DON'T HAVE PROBLEM with your water slide decal, don't trouble yourself getting it and get confuse over the usage different between the two.
All new water slide decal shall work nicely if applied properly WITHOUT Mr. Mark softer or setter.

PROBLEMATIC DECALS:
1) decals fail to adhere or keep lifting up after drying = Mark setter
2) decals fail to conform to complicated surface (raise area, panel line, hole, etc) = Mark softer



If you got silvering(patches that looks like mini bubble trap beneath decal), more likely the surface is matt/uneven/not gloss.
Make sure surface is always gloss and not matt before decal application.

NOTE:
Mark Softer is more potent and may cause your water slide decal to WRINKLE. This is NORMAL. Just leave Mark softer to do its job once applied, never touch until it's fully dried.

not necessary that u use water base color you have to use water base coat, or oil base color oil base coat.

But just for safety sake, if your color is water base (i.e arcrylic), then it's best you use back water base coat. But if your color is oil base, then no different which one u use.

One more thing to consider is what you want to do after you coat. If you are not doing anything after coat, then again no different what coat u use. But if you plan to do a wash , dry brushing etc. then it's better you use oil base coat.

I'm toking about spray can topcoat. But the theory applies to bottle type oso lah.

If it's Flat coat, it'll be obvious...
min 1 time, max 2-3 times enough.... more than that is dangerous..
if you wanna try, try it on a plastic spoon, you can see the difference

bare plastic can la..........

he means gloss coat on painted gunpla's......

also, try with excess plastic 1st, and use ZIPPO only.......

last i tried with some other brand, end up plastic become brittle and broke severel pieces.

yup. if its unpainted plastic, use modelling thinner also can la.. only reason why people use enamel paints is cos of the different solvent. the most popular paints for painting is lacquer paints. in terms of strength, lacquer> enamel, therefore, a solvent for enamel won't react with the base lacquer paint.

if you got no paint (bare plastic) who cares about the base coat? just as long as you don't use industrial thinner (myky say can use, but i don't dare)