I find that using airbrush + coating gives a much better result than the uncontrollable spray cans.

Managed to cover the frosting by the cans by applying 20 scoop Flat + 8 scoop Clear + 3 scoop thinner. Result is still pretty flat.

If you use Clear don't think need to add thinner as it's pretty watery compared to Flat.

May I know the full name for this paint set? How much is it roughly and which shops carry these?

I'm planning to use it on car head lights, but as you know the area is very small and pretty difficult to reach by rubbing as it's narrow & not flat. Wondering would the powder be good?

Right now it's painted with mr.color metallic silver, it's nothing close to chrome but i plan to finish the car soon so wondering should i try this metal powder?

Can give more info on alclad chrome? How much is it and do they mix like normal paint?

Which brand of Dremel is more reliable & lasting & effective? Is it cheaper buying from forummers or in hardware shops?

This post has been edited by advocado: Nov 17 2010, 12:26 PM

Wanna ask pros here to paint flexible items like soft plastic, like model head, boots etc where stretching/heating is required to install the item, what kind of paint do we use so that the paint won't chip off or damage during stretches?

I don't think factory uses molded paint on the detailings.

Anyone have any idea how the factory do their paint since those won't come off, and i'm sure they can't mold the detailings onto the face, can they?

yes i understand, the base paint is probably molded with the material, but the top level in your case the yellow does peel off, but for like face sculp & soft boots the details probably done on top of the molded color for extra details, but they are very strong at least when you heat the thing up & bend it it doesn't crack/come off.

Pouring thinner i think will melt the whole soft rubber...

erm what i meant is those soft rubber materials, if you're not familiar with 1/6 head & boots, maybe something like Patlabor vinyl sleeves, you know material that are soft and can be bent/press or heatup while you let go it returns to original state.

I believe normal arcylic paint or hobby paint will tend to crack or chip off, seeing how easily it comes off with just light scratch with your finger.

i don't mean that soft, but you know some plastic are soft when you warm it up it becomes bendable?

Rubber band use mold the rubber with paint, so it's not really paint. Anyway thanks for the inputs.

Someone did a chrome spoon test long time back, just wanna know the exact steps in making it chrome.

Do we spray gloss black -> metallic silver -> top gloss coat?
Which stage do we apply the tamiya compound & finishing compound (before or after final top gloss coat? Do we need to spray a gloss coat after the gloss black?

May I know why only option 2 need to dry 2-3days for top coat?

Why do we need so many layers of top coat before we put on the chrome? Won't the 1st sand/compound work be smooth enough?

Why for Gunze Metallic we need to wet sand the metallic, won't it remove the shine? Or applies if it's not good in order to reapply the top paint?

Why are top coats not required for finishing? Won't it get scratched easily without top coat?

Also is there any tips to use air gun to prevent "fur" like paint particles? It depends on gun quality, or paint mixture?

The fur effect is something like small bits of web that shoots out sometimes. Meaning the mixture is too thick?

Guys for ultimate gloss using mr.color clear no.30 arcylic what is the mixture we need? Do we add thinner or water?

I tried clear:thinner 3:1 the outcome doesn't really shine compared to gloss coat cans bought in hardware shop.

What is the best marker for panel lining.

I tried Gundam Marker Fine Oil based it is difficult to wipe off the excess after applying leaving black smudges.

Last time i tried the water based gundam marker it is very easy to wipe off but it's much thicker than the fine pens. Just wondering for water based gundam lining marker what is the smallest size?

Top loaded is more customizable but consistency depends on user, unlike bottom loaded which you can set everything and just press.

Top Loaded:
Pros:
1.Good for advance users where you control the paint output while spraying
2.Top loaded means most of the paint can be used due to gravity
3.More paint efficient as you have more control over paint amount
4.Easier to Clean, just pour thinner & spray.
5.Lighter
6.Almost all steel parts

Cons:
1.Need to buy different airgun for different nozzle to spray different thickness. End up spending alot more money, space & time to swap gun.
2.Good quality ones are expensive as cheap ones the springs break easily (as mine after 3 time use the paint throttle spring broke)
3.Cannot carry too much paint, need to keep refilling.
4.Troublesome to salvage unused paint in compartment.
5.Hard to fully clean the airgun interior paint.
6.Weight not as balanced as bottom loaded.
7.Risk of paint coming out from top if not careful.

Bottom Loaded:
Pros:
1.Good for beginners where you only press for air pressure.
2.Spray thickness can be changed by changing paint needle size.
3.Spray amount can be tuned with the turnable paint needle height.
4.Can hold more paint with larger paint bottle & easy to refill by swapping new bottle. Gunzo paint bottles are compatible.
5.Unused paint in the bottle can be kept easily.
6.Can be cleaned more throughly as paint doesn't go into airgun.
7.Less likely encounter paint spill.

Cons:
1.Bottom loaded means some residue paint where the sucking straw can't reach can't be used.
2.Some inconsistency may be encountered where paint doesn't come out from straw due to misaligned needle/loose straw etc
3.Troublesome to clean as you need to disassemble all the parts to clean and many small parts like spring & cleaning needles. Takes more time to clean out each part with paper & thinner. Lots of thinner needed just to clean.
4.More paint wastage as you have limited paint control with the paint needle.
5.Some parts made of Plastic which is not good with Thinner.
6.Parts require replacement like plastic straws may crack after taking in/out too often, springs/cleaning needle may get lost.

I have used both, i like the total control of top loaded but it broke too fast. Couldn't justify myself to spend the extra money for few higher quality (more expensive) top loaded, so i'm stucked with my original Gunzo bottom loaded (but giving me inconsistency on setting up).

For those that have no money issue & like the convenience you can alwasy buy multiple of same airgun so you can just unplug/replug the gun to the compressor.

Always clean airguns immediately after use.

Guys i have few questions:

1.which enamel paint & thinner is best used for panel lines on arcylic paint? will they stain the arcylic paint? Available tru local sellers of course.

2.for glossy finishing, must i use all 3 tamiya compound or i can skip the fine, or do i need the finish compound if i plan to use polisher/wax?

3.do polisher/wax react with arcylic gloss top coat, like will the coat absorb the fluid & turn dull?

4.what is the latest metal colors out there? looking for chrome & gold but still cannot find the perfect one.