quite simple actually. you gotta paint the gold parts in lacquer paint 1st. very important that you use lacquer ya.. after the paint has set,get black enamel and just paint over the whole thing. beauty of this is that once everything is cured, you can just use a cotton bud soaked in zippo fluid or enamel thinner to wipe off the black which is painted over the gold. enamel thinner will only react with the enamel paint and not lacquer, so the black will go off, but the gold at the bottom stays.

if you are still unsure, you can google.

This post has been edited by shauno: Dec 11 2010, 01:30 PM

so i can just wipe it with enamel thinner? thanks for the tips

i thought paint black 1st then add gold on top will have nice shiny gold. guess im wrong

lolwut the kit already molded in black but i guess it work too

whoa reading what u wrote makes me worry it might not happen so smoothly.

I believe when shauno share about this, he's assuming u r using primer as base. Without surfacer or primer, the paint might not be able to hold strongly enough onto the surface to sustain heavy washing (The technique shauno shared), the lacquer gold might, just might, come off too when u r wiping the top enamel black.

not 100% failure but very risky.


To be safe, usually modeler will do this:

primer/surfacer (The surface will become grey in color covering the original plastic) ---> gloss lacquer black (This layer of black is to help the gold looks better) ---> Gold ---> gloss top coat (An extra protection to the gold paint) ----> enamel black ----> wipe enamel black (A general term for this technique = wash)

hmm, that is lot of work to do

Actually, you are right. A coat of black before gold makes it nicer. But, you can only do this if you AB or use spraypaints. If you handpaint, the thinner you use to thin the gold will react with the base black and the colors will bleed.

One way to do black > gold is by using different solvent paints. Enamel is weaker than lacquer, so enamel thinner won't react with a lacquer paint. So you can actually have a lacquer base then have enamel over it. That is the basis of a reverse wash. But if you wanna wash off the 3rd layer of black is not possible d. Conclusion of my ramblings, black then gold makes nicer gold. If you wanna reverse wash the part llater tho make sure you spray the paint and not handbrush. If you handbrush, just lacquer gold then enamel black

Guys, I have a kinda n00b question….

For the protection coat which we spray on the kit upon completion. I believe ‘flat’ type means not reflecting any light on it. So in such case, if I’m building Strike Freedom which have golden an dshining part on it, if I spray the ‘flat’ type protection coat on it, will it cause it to lost it’s shining-ness? My question is, for such model do I need 2 type of protection coat, 1 gloss and 1 flat?

Thanks!

=dead if parts already in black, then ok. if not... this are the steps of doom. so far all my paint is mr. hobbys'

hi there, i just ordered the 00 qan[t] kit......my 1st

just wanna know to complete assemble the kit, just snapkit........

i ordered the following tools, is it sufficient. or does it require anything else?

1. GM01 gundam marker fine tip

2. Mineshima D-4 SEIKO Side Cutter

3. Olfa 10B Art Knife

so will this be enough?
or is it unnecessary in your thoughts?

somebody help plz~~~~

coz there's already answered by browsing this thread http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/488910
hope this'll help you

Your question is kind of vague here. Whether the tools are enough or not is totally up to you.

Some people just use normal art knife + nail clipper is enough to snap fit a kit. And some uses tamiya side cutter, sand paper, xacto knife etc etc just to snap fit a kit.
It all depends on preference. If it's your first, I would imagine a cutter from stationary shop and a nail clipper is more than enough.

Gundam Marker for panel lining is fine.

And this has been re-posted for the 2 million time, and I'm posting it again for the 2 million and 1 time:
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/488910

This's no straight answer.........

ok there's flat/matt metallic too; look at woman's jewelery (matt gold), your watch(Matt titanum) etc. In order to achieve that kind of realistic finishing, u need to have some experience in metallic paint n finishing first. Otherwise u will have difficulty to even understand the terminology, the characteristics of paint.

So i m answering this on the basis of the straight forward, metallic paint ---> coating process.

I assume u already understand the concept of gloss n flat. If u dont, continue reading is pretty much waste of time; go browse this thread again, there r some discussion regarding this issue.

So when u have a flat coat on top of the metallic, the flat base tends to disturb the reflection of the metallic paint, which these reflections are the main thing that make your metallic paint looks metallic. As a result, u might face the risk of the metallic turning into something none metallic; eg, gold become khaki yellow, silver become grey.

This is all depends on which kind of effect u want.

If u want something like a candy coat metallic, the answer is definitely YES for having 2 types of finishing coat.

However, there r cases where people are using coats with a lower percentage of additive/ flat base, to mimic a flat metallic effect. As long as the additive is low level, and the metallic shine is high level, one can still achieve a certain level of metallic effect by coating metallic painted parts with flat coat.

Example: http://forum.zerogunz.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=5893

As u can see from the photo, the gold is not a high shine gold. However, it still manage to convert a message to its viewer that it's still gold, or metallic in other words.

He's using Gaia gold with Gaia flat, which in my opinion, the gold is very shiny and the flat is kinda weak, almost close to a semi gloss/satin level. Hence the effect of the gold is still pretty good.

If u want hassle free by using pre mixed paint n coat, i would suggest Gaia over Gunze (Mr color), as the latter's flat coat is a very powerful flat.


Hope this helps.

---

Added on December 15, 2010, 2:05 amThis's no straight answer.........

ok there's flat/matt metallic too; look at woman's jewelery (matt gold), your watch(Matt titanum) etc. In order to achieve that kind of realistic finishing, u need to have some experience in metallic paint n finishing first. Otherwise u will have difficulty to even understand the terminology, the characteristics of paint.

So i m answering this on the basis of the straight forward, metallic paint ---> coating process.

I assume u already understand the concept of gloss n flat. If u dont, continue reading is pretty much waste of time; go browse this thread again, there r some discussion regarding this issue.

So when u have a flat coat on top of the metallic, the flat base tends to disturb the reflection of the metallic paint, which these reflections are the main thing that make your metallic paint looks metallic. As a result, u might face the risk of the metallic turning into something none metallic; eg, gold become khaki yellow, silver become grey.

This is all depends on which kind of effect u want.

If u want something like a candy coat metallic, the answer is definitely YES for having 2 types of finishing coat.

However, there r cases where people are using coats with a lower percentage of additive/ flat base, to mimic a flat metallic effect. As long as the additive is low level, and the metallic shine is high level, one can still achieve a certain level of metallic effect by coating metallic painted parts with flat coat.

Example: http://forum.zerogunz.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=5893

As u can see from the photo, the gold is not a high shine gold. However, it still manage to convert a message to its viewer that it's still gold, or metallic in other words.

He's using Gaia gold with Gaia flat, which in my opinion, the gold is very shiny and the flat is kinda weak, almost close to a semi gloss/satin level. Hence the effect of the gold is still pretty good.

If u want hassle free by using pre mixed paint n coat, i would suggest Gaia over Gunze (Mr color), as the latter's flat coat is a very powerful flat.


Hope this helps.


This post has been edited by rayloke: Dec 15 2010, 02:05 AM

any tools you felt necessary for the moment will be enough. when you need other tools then just buy when you felt you need it.
i would say your ordered tools would be sufficient.

@inquisytor
let me help answer... since im new here also. so sifu can relax
actually he wanted the best tools, so that he doesn't buy too much cuz he is in it for the long run ( not like me, i bought too much extra tools till can hand out)

This post has been edited by gaiachronicler: Dec 15 2010, 11:18 AM

Wanted to start gundam but nt sure should buy air brush or nt...any recommend? Hand paint or air brush? If so where can I get a set of air brush that is rdy to use?

here sell quite cheap airbrush
http://mgs2u.com/shop/index.php?s=
the shop owner is also a user here tkting

er... that's not quite what i asked.. but still, thanks for trying ot help

This is EXACTLY what I need to know, thank you so much for clarify this to me Alright confirmed, I need to go buy 1 more gloss protection coat.

(er... usually u all do the lining b4 or after spraying the protection coat? I b4 right? so can 'cover' the ink inside?)

This post has been edited by Vorador: Dec 15 2010, 01:52 PM

normally, you have one layer of gloss after painting, before panel lining and decal application. you do panel lines first then decal. afterwards, another layer of top coat. this time one of your choice, so depending on what type of finish you want, use the correct top coat.

ow... so the first layer of gloss coat wont affect anything... cool.