tutorial to Start GunPla-ing
i noticed that the thread doesn't have anything on brush + hand painting
need a sifu to add sumthing there. since im not a pro myself. & also most of the sifu here is upgraded to airbrush
for example: what brush to use? what thinner brand to remove the paint from brush & the dish?

as far as my experience goes. factory thinner on the mr. hobby paints = instant peel off (literally) but not my brush as the paint still have some stick on it. i even used my fingernails to remove them.(i think i might be damaging the brush instead)

hobby thinner = lighten the color, diluting the paint slowly from the brush. but still use quite a lot of volume to fully remove the paint from the brush. i even tried using hobby thinner on a dish, dip the brush in & rub it with my fingers. then i will need to do this 2 - 3 times to get the paint fully out from the brush.

is what im doing wrong?

i guess those that flow out is thinner.. somehow the chrome silver must have been gone through hardening process.
this happen to those long time no use marker. especially when u put at 1 place & never touch it at all for months. happen to 1 of my marker as well.

how much is the price? i've been planning to get 1. but planning budget carefully

try this. i never had a clear coat, so i never tried b4. for hand paint. use the silver. then put or spray clear coat on top.
i know as some ppl tried with "dull" gold(as i remember) then apply clear yellow after the gold dry. looks like gold chrome for me.
try this method on a runner 1st to see the effects

This post has been edited by gaiachronicler: Jun 26 2010, 07:12 PM

i painted the dagger knife of blue frames MG with gun chrome. if u like i can take some pictures of it on how it looks if u hand paint it.

using mr.hobby "gun chrome" no mixture added

but im using only phone camera


u can see that black handle for the dagger is the default mold color
it has a bit of the "light deflect" effect, just a bit, not much. more like chrome grey rather then silver

This post has been edited by gaiachronicler: Jul 21 2010, 09:28 PM

i remember they say nippon paint pylox brand can be painted on model kits. no damage caused. better to prime the part then spray the color u want for better bond.. <--- for spraying, i guess.

i bought my gun metal not long ago from afhobby. i see there still got alot. (last month)
hope there still some there for u though..

i thought paint black 1st then add gold on top will have nice shiny gold. guess im wrong

=dead if parts already in black, then ok. if not... this are the steps of doom. so far all my paint is mr. hobbys'

any tools you felt necessary for the moment will be enough. when you need other tools then just buy when you felt you need it.
i would say your ordered tools would be sufficient.

@inquisytor
let me help answer... since im new here also. so sifu can relax
actually he wanted the best tools, so that he doesn't buy too much cuz he is in it for the long run ( not like me, i bought too much extra tools till can hand out)

This post has been edited by gaiachronicler: Dec 15 2010, 11:18 AM

break like this...

i think i applied too much force when assembling..

should i try use putty to fix it up? question is: "will it be strong enough?"
i also thought of sanding the black round spot (the piston thingy) down to where it will not stress the 'going-to-be-fixed-area'

or is there anyway else to fix it? since this part is moving parts + near ankle joint..

is needed...

This post has been edited by gaiachronicler: Apr 25 2012, 10:37 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)