Those r stickers..... basically u cannot readjust once u stick it onto surface. However, recent few issues of dengeki hobby had been teaching this again n again..... put some water on the surface of your kit before apply the sticker, with the water trap in between the sticker n surface, u still can readjust the sticker position a little.

HD version should come with a set of waterslide decal. The best way is to cut bit of unwanted part out, use water to test, if not coming out, try dry transfer method.

Dont ask how to do water slide and dry transfer, want to know, go check out v3 of this thread....

Try use blue tag for sticker stain. it might work. or even masking tape.

As for how to apply sticker, with the aid of water, that really helps in adjusting the position.

U from KL? There r quite some places offer after market decal. no need ebay....

This post has been edited by rayloke: Apr 22 2010, 12:41 PM

Ridt_Henshin: I think inquisytor has already answered all of your question well; but i would like to add a word or two, in the context of modeling.

See, modeling, though is not art, but many of them do come close to art. Take for example the question about painting n thinning the paint; during school time when we do water color painting in kelas lukisan, would anyone of us asked the cikgu "berapa air saya kena tambah dalam water color saya?" Might sound as crude, i would say this is one of the stupidest question ever exist. As inquisytor said, it depends on what u want. too thin? add more paint or wait a while, too thick? add more thinner.

Same thing goes to modeling paint. So people, please do take note.

As for painting, same thing either it's hand paint, spray can, air brush. One needs practice, practice, and practice; exactly like what u did in art class painting a water color picture. The medium is just a medium, technique is just a technique. It's the skill that makes a difference.





ken3230: Hahah I will quote inquisytor "this has been answered 2 million times...." Do check out the previous version of this thread and u will find the answer. Basically, setter does melt the decal a little, and with some adhesive elemenet in it. So it's usually at the bottom. Softener, as its name, soften the decal but melting it. Usually applied on top...

Dont think Gunze will produce a product just to make your decal looks ugly. Mark setter wont and not a cause for silvering. In fact, it reduce silvering.

i might sound very "potong stim" here.......

Resin kit is much harder to handle than injection kit (Bandai HG, MG r injection plastic kit). In addition, resin usually cause a lot more than injection kit. For now i would recommend u stick to injection kit first, cause to make a resin kit nice, in the most basic level, u need quite some tools n material.....

However, it's still up to u, it's your kit.

Anyway, for your question, i think i used to see resin primer (The first picture) in Time Machine. Go check out there. If not, go back to the shop that sell you the resin; they should carry it. Cause unlike injection kit, resin kit must be painted (unless u like your display kit too look yellow.... without any color). And painting on resin kit must be cleaned thoroughly and almost 100% must have primer to help the paint grab onto the surface.

If the shop not selling primer but just resin kit to his customer....... mebbe u can request them to help you order some primer in.


For the second picture, it's a tamiya gray surfacer/primer. U can get that from tamiya underground. For this surfacer/primer, i recommend u used Gunze/ Mr hobby's; easier to find in town. Many model shops carry it.

Bro, clear is (a kind of resin) used for top coat. when u add flat base, a type of micro particle, into clear, it will make the surface become more uneven after dried. Meaning a rough surface, aka flat. add a bit, gloss will become semi gloss; add more it will become flat.

So since flat is add some micro particle into clear, it means the not 100% transparent micro part will disturb light reflecting to our eyes. In short, yes, for transparent part, flat coat will make it blurr.....

and fyi, if u want your kit to look nice, always, always spray or top coat your kit part by part. the smaller u part them, the better. reduce the risk of frosting to the minimum.

Yeah i agree with erh_teo, i wouldn't advise to brush it on. For an expensive resin kit, it's just very "sayang" to see it being treated that way.....

This is based on assumption that your resin kit is a bigger one, either mecha or japanese anime based character, which both is preferred to be painted with smooth finishing without weathering.

Probably the only type of resin i could imagine proper to be fully hand painted would be those small, miniature figures. Eg, a 1/24 human figure with quite some washing n weathering.......

Whichever way u r more comfortable n able to produce good work. for me, paint everything in parts, top coat, panel line, decal, weathering; then only assemble.

Only part of weathering will be done after assembled.

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Added on May 11, 2010, 5:15 pmWhy not u try it and share with us the outcome?

This post has been edited by rayloke: May 11 2010, 05:15 PM

Haha this is probably the 7,355 times the same question is being asked here.

Go af or tkting, both offer some entry-level stuff. For other types and different level usage....... Go check out the thread with the same name as this: V.1 and V.2, plenty of info n discussion.

This post has been edited by rayloke: May 13 2010, 03:17 PM

I dont know much about compressor, however i would advise u to get a better one if budget allowed n if u think u will stick to this hobby for long. Mine lasted for 20 years, since the day i was still an illustrator/visualizer.

As erh_teo mentioned, try get one with tank. With a tank means the compressor do not have to work all the time; only when the air pressure in the tank hit a pre-set low mark. Reduce electricity usage n noise pollution. Notice a lot of modelers only have time to work at night so the best is to hear the sound before purchase.

As for hand piece, see it as this: a, air brush hand piece is like a paint brush in water color. basically how fine n well the result majority factor depends on skill. However, with a good tool, it will enhance the outcome of an already skillful work. I guess u mostly do gundam, so i think a 0.3mm would be good; in between 0.2mm n 0.5mm.

This post has been edited by rayloke: May 14 2010, 04:15 PM

Really nice explanation with pics inquisytor!!!

For those who dont bother to remember how do the paint bottles look like, please do read the label too.

if there is a kanji, which is same as chinese, word " 水 ", or a word "Aqueous", it means acrylic based..... Gunze only has acrylic n lacquer paint.

Air brush your top coat like u r air brushing other colors. Afterall, top coat is basically a paint without color.

Many has this idea that top coating is after u assembled the whole kit, then "Psst...." the whole kit a few times with top coat. Well, if u do that, i would expect next thing u will start to ask question like "Why got frosting?" "Why not top coat even" "why not enough gloss?" etc etc

Again, top coating is spraying another layer of paint that has no color onto the kit. Spray part by part.

Be careful, Tamiya flat base, or other brands' flat base, is just an addictive to be added into clear.

Ok the concept of top coat:

paint consist of the resin n the pigment. paint with red pigment is red paint. paint with pigment, just only the resin, usually what u ll see in the market is usually labeled as "Clear" or "Gloss". This type of resin, we spray on top of our paint kit surface, to serve as a protective layer onto the paint. Since it has no pigment, it will not alter the color at the bottom. (Same concept as u use a transparent plastic sheet to wrap your book during school days).

In short, those spray can "top coat" is basically same thing as those bottled "clear" or "Gloss".

The resin, however, when sprayed and dried, it tends to level up itself and as a result it looks kinda shinny or glossy. So we can add some additive into it: some micro-size powder, to make the final outlook to look more flat, or less gloss. The more u add, the more flat it will be. This additive, micro size particle is generally called "Flat base". So basically if u look at Gaianote's or Mr Hobby's Semi gloss or Flat, u can achieve the same effect by getting a bottle of gloss, and add flat base into it. Add a little, it will be more like semi gloss; add more, it will become flat.

This additive micro particle, basically is just particle alone. So if u spray it without adding it into the resin (clear or any color), where there is nothing to hold them together; when it dries, it will become like powder on top of your kit: Like u have sprinkle some baby talcum onto the kit.

So flat base CANNOT be used alone, it must be added into clear or color (Eg adding flat base in Yellow u will get a semi gloss yellow, or a flat yellow).

So i guess what u should be looking for is color labeled as "flat", or if u r using tamiya acrylic, u should get yourself a clear n flat base and mix them urself. If i m not mistaken, Mr Hobby n Gaia do manufacture a pre-mix flat, but tamiya doesn't.

no worries. if the lacquer is at the base, after it cure, u can actually paint acrylic paint on top, with acrylic thinner. no reaction.

an air conditioned room, without any direct wind (by fan) blowing towards u, a focus table lamp (check error n spray condition), window closed (less dust) is very good for air brushing. However, with this condition, a spray booth is necessary, or u ll be killed by the fume.

If u r spraying outdoor, there is not need of spray booth obviously. However, u will get impromptu wind direction, uncontrollable humidity level, changes of the color of sunlight in different time, bugs, cats, dogs, and extremely important: DUST.

If availability in terms of finance n real estate, would strongly recommend u set up a spray booth n do air brush in a closed area.

Eg, some car workshops do spray paint onto cars outdoor. But the high quality ones always have their closed-area spray area. Same concept.

It all depends on $$$ n space as i mentioned. For me, I slowly add one thing to another.

When u spray, normally what's the problem u encounter? dust? paint consistency? etc? Obviously, if u have a space dry, with low air movement, and comfortable (air cond room); a spray booth with a vent fan, with filter, and clean/dust free (have your maid to clean for ya everyday); good light source; plenty of space for pre n post air brushing; comfortable chair, silent n stable compressor, good handpiece; that would be perfect.

We all love to have perfect workplace but not many do have the luxury for that. Only when we encounter problems, we try to rectify them. If u r perfectly ok with everything u r having now, then it's always ok to maintain as u r comfortable.

Great work comes from the skillful hands n passionate heart of the artist. Workplace is important but not crucial.

1. i won't label/compare them as which one is easier to use. I prefer Tamiya cause it's more opaque, means easier to over the base color. That's the only reason. In terms of brush stroke, i think Gunze's easier to control. Besides that, Gunze is easier to be dilluted by water, while Tamiya, i would recommend using thinner as the medium to dillute.

In terms of durability, I think Tamiya is better.

In terms of brightness of color, Gunze is better.

2. If u like petroleum smell, u will love everything with resin n thinner. I have the potential to sniff super glue, so it smells ok to me. If u hate petroluem based products smell, I think u will find it smell awful, just like any other hobby paint.

3. no. Base white is NOT primer, it is paint. A very concentrated n opaque one.

Look for tkting.

Search MGS2u.com

Even chrome, there r various thickness n different plastic component underneath the chrome that makes a chrome strong or weak.

For hyaku, i m not too sure. Used to coat car chrome bumper n no problem.

Even if i say no problem, i believe not all cars, different brand might have different reaction.

Best is to cut of part of the chrome spru/runner and spray it on yourself. Within minutes, u will already know whether it can be done on hyaku or not instantly. Aint that faster n easier than asking question while nobody answer u for a week?

Something that can be easily tested out is always best to test than keep on asking.

go search the net, gets lots of references, not only on reborn but other mecha that can help u visualize the color on your reborn.

Being irresponsible, i can just tell u "Red". But there r millions of tones in red. So if u screwed up, it's not my fault.

Hence in forum discussion, it's always good to at least find some reference, share them, and state your opinions n questions. With that, it's always easier to start a discussion n other people to throw u ideas.

For your reference, there's a tutorial on how to customize the color of your mecha digitally. I think it's pretty easy to use.
http://forum.zerogunz.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=8378

*mod, if u think this is not proper, please delete this.

This post has been edited by rayloke: Aug 9 2010, 01:52 PM

Are u serious about this?

Recasting is pretty advance level stuff in modeling; or it can be a hobby by itself. Be ready to invest quite a bit for first, the resin n the molding rubber aint cheap; plus other accessories. Besides that, need to do some trial n error plus some experiment or practices first. To me, throw in at least 2 MG's price for it.

Besides that, resin does release fume n it's quite toxic.

So i suggest u go find more tutorial about recasting first. If u dont even know the component n materials needed, we r not even talking about chemical components, I would foresee there ll be some disaster.

Go search, there r quite some tutorial about this matter. Even Dengeki Hobby did featured some in some issues a few years back.




There's another cheaper n fairly easy way to do some simple recasting by using epoxy putty or polyster putty with molding rubber. Is actually quite effective especially if u r doing one side mold. For the molding rubber, do check out with tkting or mgs2u.com.

In fact tkting has some experience in resin recasting. If u manage to meet up with him, nag him n ask lots of questions. However i still recommend u to search n read a bit before u do so. U wouldnt want to annoy him by asking general or stupid questions right?