hi guys. i'm thinking of building my gundam with below method. (no painting)

1. panel line + decal STRAIGHT FROM THE RUNNER
2. top coat (flat for my case)
3. cut out from the runner and trim
4. assemble
5. final topcoat (flat for my case again)

haven't try the method yet but will buy a cheap HG for experiment Hope some sifu can give me some guide. thanks in advance

bro inquisytor

your explanation do make sense.. i will keep that in mind.. thanks again

probably i will try like this

1. panel line STRAIGHT FROM THE RUNNER
2. spray a thin layer of gloss/semi gloss coat to protect panel lining
3. cut out from the runner
4. file or sand the nub OR use design knife to trim then use gundam marker to touch up if necessary.
4. assemble and apply decal
5. final topcoat (flat for my case again)

This post has been edited by stanleysum: Apr 30 2010, 04:53 PM

i dunno my white gundam marker got problem or not. i can't paint white on color area at all.... i think is too thin or what... whenever i painted on a color area.... it can't seems to cover it at all... u can always see the original color there... haizz....

waa.. does that mean need to use primer before applying white color on color surface every time? even gundam marker, hand brush and AB too? i just been lazy and just need to touch up with some white color on a very small portion on the kit... i guess i need to go buy a bottle of tamiya white color and a thinner and some brushes.... try it on the runner and see whether can resolve my problem or not ..

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Added on May 3, 2010, 2:31 pmgood thing u bring up as i'm planning to do this too but never thought on the clear parts issue.. will start my PG 00 project soon

This post has been edited by stanleysum: May 3 2010, 02:31 PM

hi.. i just bought a Mr.Super Clear (Flat) and test spray on my very old SD kit and giving me frosting effect? I wonder why. is it my method or the product i bought is faulty?

what is the suggested distance? i spray about 1 1/2 feet away. some guide is appreciated or maybe i press too hard when spray?? i think i press too hard...

This post has been edited by stanleysum: May 5 2010, 08:07 PM

Humid? i think so because just now got rain over here... and i spray in my apartment yard area.. i guess consider outdoor already..

left to right then right to left? i keep that in mind.

i think i will try again on a sunny day and see the result again i still got 1 more very old HG to test on it

thanks for the tip. lesson learn here and also thanks to all sifu who responded to my issue

what if i use this technique on plain plastic? acrylic can? i was thinking to use this technique by using Mr. Hobby color + Mr. Hobby Leveling Thinner. after that will apply Mr. Super Clear Flat.

Acrylic = water based?
Enamel = oil based?
Lacquer = water or oil based?
Mr Super Clear Flat = acrylic/water based?
Mr. Hobby Color = acrylic/water based?


This post has been edited by stanleysum: May 9 2010, 05:04 AM

thanks for the info... actually i'm trying to use wash technique to do panel lining on plain plastic... i'm not into painting the kit... just need good clean panel line i already have Mr.Hobby color (acrylic) now and mr. hobby leveling thinner... i was thinking if i could use wash technique by using the mentioned colors instead of enamel... i understand and saw many tutorial online teaching this technique but always talking about enamel paint. i haven't dare to try on acrylic paint yet. if really need enamel then i need to fork out money to buy those hoping to save money for other things

ic.. thanks for clearing my doubt i guess i must head out and buy enamel paint + enamel thinner broke again

1 more question.. since i'm not painting my kit. i don't need to spray a layer of Mr. Super Clear Gloss before i perform panel line wash right? hope the answer is NO NEED and will save me another RM3x

This post has been edited by stanleysum: May 9 2010, 03:44 PM

finally painted my SD Strike Gundam shield. My first attempt of hand painting thou. one thing i learn during the process of painting... painting does not stay on the plastic well (i think this is where primer shine. is it recommended to prime before hand paint?) and it is very hard to cover the original plastic color (painting white color over the red plastic). brush stroke is also an issue. i'm using Mr. color semi gloss paint paint + leveling thinner. Took me 2hours++ to complete the small shield.. lol..

very true... hand painiting not easy at all.. need to practice more.. on SD Gundam require a lot of painting to look nice or else it will look so plain unlike MG and PG i guess building MG is much more easier than HG and SD, at least less painting and what i only need is touching up, panel lining then top coat

very true also... my first experience during painting the SD Strike Gundam shiled... it tends to dry up faster than i paint on the shield.... need to keep adding thinner into the color or else start clogging.. (i was sitting under the ceiling fan thou, i guess that is the reason to dry up fast)

AFHobby is selling Copic Marker for panel lining which is 0.03/0.02 compare to Gundam Marker 0.3. i guess is quite thin and i am planning to buy it once their stock arrive next week together with some enamel paint and enamel thinner too

Thanks for the tip. will keep that in mind

it is listed in the pin thread here http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/392450

or visit AFHobby forum http://www.bbs.afhobby.com/index.php

This post has been edited by stanleysum: May 13 2010, 10:31 AM

it is actually walking distance from XL-Shop

just bought a bottle of Mr.Hobby Mr.Retarder Mild. it can be used for both acrylic and enamel? most of my paint is acrylic thou but i just wanted to confirm because i gonna use wash technique using enamel

For my understanding.. it can be used for acrylic.. i'm just wondering can it be used on enamel too now i got the answer thanks to you

the demo done on white plastic spoon and i assume there is no coloring involved. the effect actually polish straight out from the white plastic spoon? that's all? i wonder how is the outcome if done it on color plastic?