Model thinner can remove paints and etc things on your kit. It can erase your gundam marker but depends what type(lacquer or acrylic) it is using..
You'll have to becareful too as too much thinner will "clean" more than you need...
Model thinner can get in in hobby shops, please check the pinned threads for more information.

actually both can use on flat surface but yes softerner is for "longkang" surface..
Both of these are meant for decals(sticker/water type)
Softerner can remove the "bubbles" in the decal... settler also can but not as much as softerner..

IT depends on what decals you are using...
i used settlers, have never used softerners... i will use them in the future to reduce the "silvering" on my decals...

hmm.. actually both also can la..just both different uses. like you said the "longkang" then softerner will be the suitable one

As for silvering
it's the side of the decal where you can see the "white", something like not "sticking" properly...
I don't really know how to explain it... showing a picture would be easier...

not exactly...
take from pinned thread...
Decal Softener
This liquid makes decal soft and conform to the surface it is stuck on. Usually on a gloss surface across the panel lines, the decal is cut and this liquid is brushed on to let the decal stick in the insides of the line to make it look painted on

If you have not painted your Akatsuki before which it came originally then leave it... Top coating it can ruin it..
Unless you have painted the gold yourself

Don't forget to shake well and spray from left to right, right to left method...
Spraying too think will also cause frosting

No.... enamel most suitable because you need the flow of the paint

You can use lacquer or acrylic as a base paint... Either one only!
Both can be used for hand painting or Air brush..

Acrylic = water based
Enamel = oil based i think(not sure)
Lacquer = oil based
Mr Super Clear Flat = oil Or water, more info on the link below
Mr. Hobby Color = old or water, more info on the link below

Check this link for more info...
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/488910

ah ic...
enamel is actually the way to go.. because you'll need to clean them up after the excess paints come out.. So enamel is easier to clear rather than acrylic

Should be ok since the original plastic is already a bit glossy... You'll also have a easier cleaning job because you don't have a base paint which is safe when you try to clean the excess paints..

Like inquisytor said, you'll need to add enamel thinner...
yes, you can use zippo fluid.. When adding it to the enamel paint, make the paint watery but NOT too watery until the paint fades...

Yes, very true... Do NOTE zippo fluid though is cheap but must be very careful when using it to clean the excess paints..
If rub/clean the excess paint too much or too hard, your base paint MIGHT fade off...
This is from self-experience..

http://www.mgs2u.com/shop/browse.php?cgrfnbr=202&s=1010

You can paint without the primer but your paint will not stick so well and it'll peel off easily... It's a common issue that white is hard to cover over existing colors as Airbrush also have this problem so that's why you need more practice.. Brush strokes are common for hand painting especially large areas, in order to void them, you'll need plenty of practice... no one say hand painting was easy..

hmm... isn't acrylic suppose to be mixed with water since it's water based paint... every time if you mix a color, always always "stir/mix" them well before painting... your brush start to "clog" up might be because it's starting to get dry... when painting, try not to paint with a fan/aircond on because it will dry the paint faster...

Just try it... if someone shows you, it'll be different cause reality and photo may look different.. you want to know the result then test it yourself..

Isn't it up to you? there's flat, semi-gloss and gloss... so it really ends up how you want it to look like.

The one you mentioned is actually meant for cutting pla-plate.
"Equipped with a blade especially designed to cut plastic. " quote from the site...
you can actually use it to do straight panel lines other than that, it'll be a bit tough..
like you mentioned, those like look pen those are better to use..
There's a cheaper way is that you use a drill holder(suddenly forgot what you call it) and put a needle in front will have the same function like the pen from hasegawa

This post has been edited by z3r0717: May 19 2010, 06:23 PM

lol... thanks.. suddenly forgot , long time din touch gunpla already.

ooouh.... i thought you were talking about gundams... lol.. my bad...
hmm... since you already put weather effects, usually people will go with flat to "preserve" the effects.. IF you want metal(shining type), then you'll have to go with gloss..

2. predator skin, hmm maybe semi-gloss or flat..

Yes, top/clear coat does protects the color, that's the purpose of it...

I am just giving my suggestion as i've never done a resin kit or a figure before so it'll be slightly different from gundam..

Example for you and for me... lol

ooh ic.. i am a predator fan but not as big as you...
hmm... Popular ones will be Mr.hobby... There's 2 types, 1 is bottle type(for AirBrush use) and 1 is spray can type..
if you have AB i suggest using that cause you can control it and less chances of getting frosting(something like white dust).
Spray can would be an alternative choice but have to becareful not to get frosting...

hope that helps

cheaper way is like i mentioned get a pin vise and put the needle in the pin vise..
other way would be getting those expensive ones like you mentioned

elephant glue??? i guess you'll have to saw it into half already...

If it's Flat coat, it'll be obvious...
min 1 time, max 2-3 times enough.... more than that is dangerous..
if you wanna try, try it on a plastic spoon, you can see the difference


This post has been edited by z3r0717: May 27 2010, 06:27 PM