Was wondering has anyone tried to get rid of spray paints using oven cleaner? Any brands to recommend? Much appreciated...
Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v3
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 May 26 2010, 02:40 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
12 posts Joined: Dec 2009  
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Hello all,
Was wondering has anyone tried to get rid of spray paints using oven cleaner? Any brands to recommend? Much appreciated... |
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Jan 23 2011, 01:21 AM
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#2
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Junior Member
12 posts Joined: Dec 2009
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Hello, everyone... I have a question about metallics. I finally manage to get a nice candy color using Alclad II as a base...the question is, I now intend to seal it with a glossy finish. Will this affect the candy color? I know that Alclad II tends to dull when its gloss coated.....
Any help would be great..... |
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Jun 26 2011, 01:32 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
12 posts Joined: Dec 2009
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What kind of putty are you using? Is it the tube one or the ones where you blend two colors (hardener and the epoxy)?
If the putty seem to have shrunk, then its normal as putty does shrink when it cures. If that's the case, then just reputty it again. If the putty is squishy, chances are its not mixed properly- there's not enough hardner mixed in. |
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Jul 31 2011, 09:03 PM
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#4
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12 posts Joined: Dec 2009
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QUOTE(akoxix @ Jul 31 2011, 07:31 PM) hi. i'm not sure if this question had been asked before, so i'm gonna just ask it.. Here's what to do and what not do for nub mark removal : http://www.forum.zerogunz.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=7926how to remove/clean nub on the model kit? do you used marker or paint or what? sorry if this question have been asked.. i'm gonna look up on this for a while.. so, thanx for help..   |
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Sep 22 2011, 01:06 PM
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#5
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12 posts Joined: Dec 2009
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QUOTE(zheyuen @ Sep 20 2011, 05:08 PM) guys, which paint at tamiya underground is suitable for spray painting white on Gundams? i heard tamiya spray paints got various lines, i dunno which one is the right one. Think you should look for those labelled with "TS" one and not those with "PS" ones... The "PS" one if not mistaken is for RC car bodies etc. Also, if its white, avoid buying the "Pure White" Tamiya spray. Some top coats on it will make it turn yellow-ish a bit. |
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Oct 19 2011, 01:26 PM
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#6
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12 posts Joined: Dec 2009
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Anyone here used Gaia's Starbright Gold? Will the gold color dull if I spray a gloss coat over it?
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Nov 15 2011, 09:59 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
12 posts Joined: Dec 2009
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Have to be a bit careful with metallic colors (esp gold) actually. If you gloss coat it, the metallic particles or shine may lose its lustre. You may end up in yellow color instead.
Maybe what you can do is spray clear yellow (a few thin layers) on top of gold and then only gloss coat it...... |
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Feb 2 2012, 10:00 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
12 posts Joined: Dec 2009
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Hmmm…not sure about the link that you posted, but if you are trying to achieve a dark metallic blue, there are probably a few ways of doing it. Silverleaf is a bit too bright, so maybe try a darker metal base? Thing is, you will need more coats of clear blue to get the dark metallic that you want. You mentioned about Tamiya spray cans, they do have metallic blue too. If you want something darker and deeper than that metallic blue, use a black base then spray over with the metallic blue.
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May 15 2012, 05:53 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
12 posts Joined: Dec 2009
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Can use industrial thinner to soak bottle cap/ Lightly use ciggy lighter on cap or get one of them bottle openers.
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Jun 21 2012, 12:51 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
12 posts Joined: Dec 2009
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If metal surface, have to be a bit careful on primer choice. It has to be metal primer not plastic primer me thinks...
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Jun 22 2012, 04:21 PM
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#11
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12 posts Joined: Dec 2009
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http://www.diecast.org/diecast98/html/asp/...asp?articleID=4 Try reading the above link on how to prep surface for diecast cars. |
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Aug 2 2012, 05:34 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
12 posts Joined: Dec 2009
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Your topcoat will have to be a (laquer)gloss base first if you planning to use enamel paint. This is because it will minimise the "bumps" at the surface, protect your paint surface and help with the capilary action of the enamel paint.
After that, you can either finish up with gloss or flat coat to your preference  . |
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Sep 3 2012, 03:56 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
12 posts Joined: Dec 2009
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Since you've been using spray can previously, why not just decant your existing spray cans? http://www.ghostofzeon.com/diy/paintxtract/xtract.html.
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Oct 2 2012, 03:22 PM
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#14
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12 posts Joined: Dec 2009
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QUOTE(htpkevin @ Oct 2 2012, 01:54 PM) guys, just ordered airbrush from my seller. But i got one question, my seller included a GX100 clear for me(i think is Mr. Color one), he said that one can make it as a protective layer(something like top coat, but this one is glossy i think). but this is first time i use airbrush, so i also dunno about this and i need advice on this. So i just spray this after finish painting? Well, GX100 is a top coat to protect your paints. IMHO, some slight changes is required on your steps above.the sequence is like(correct me if i'm wrong) primer-->2 to 3 layers of paint-->then this GX100 clear-->decals?-->GX100 again?-->then only panel line wash-->then lastly what? please bear with me coz totally new in airbrush@@. primer-->2 to 3 layers of paint-->then this GX100 clear-->panel line-->GX100-->decals--->Depending on the finish you are going for, GX100 or flat coat. Reason is that panel lining can be messy. Also ppl do another round of coating after applying decals is to prevent the decal edges from showing. You might neeed to exercise caution when using clear. Never spray when its humid, raining. |
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