All the question can be ask here and also hope we can share all the building and painting tips over here.

This post has been edited by VincC454: Jul 16 2007, 10:51 PM

hi,

am fixing my MG Hyakushiki, the first version, i figure out the gold is not tat shinny, do you think i should apply gold spray on it to make it better?

What kind and which kind of gold spray you recommend?

Thanks

Hi i am here to support ur topic!!!

This is the information of where u can get Acrylic Paint, crafting tools and accessories in KL and Selangor!

1) Berjaya Times Square 7th floor Time Machine - Mr Hobby Paint + crafting tool + accessories
2) Berjaya Times Square 5th Grafiti Toys - Compressor + accessories + Paint??? (the boss said they will sell paint later on)
3) Petaling Street Toycity - Tamiya Paint + Tamiya branded accessories & crafting tools
4) 1 Utama Tamiya Underground - Tamiya Paint + Tamiya branded accessories & crafting tools
5) XL-Shops (all branchs) - mostly Mr Hobby Paint (not many), Painting tools (good brushes) + Mr Hobby brand plastic cement and some others stuff like tat.
6) Ampang PARAGON POINT SHOPING CENTRE Af-Hobby - got some crafting tools + paints + accessories (compressor too). Address can be find in bbs.afhobby.com
7) Ampang City Square Plaza Hobby HQ - sells a lot of paint from each brand (Tamiya + Mr Hobby), and also accessories.

This post has been edited by 300078: Jun 27 2007, 11:02 AM

well..i get most of my paint supplies from TM also..but not thinner...lol they sell leveling till RM20..where others sell RM15

scout around for best price before you buy...paint and thinner are important if you wanna make ur model looks nice...but also they run out very very fast...

one more shop you can get crafting accessories like craft knife and airbrushing accessorries is from petaling street venus art.

and for the gold question...this is the most trickiest color of all...how to make it goldish..how to make it shinny...how to make it doesnt look like poo...

anyone with a proper tips with this gold issues?

gold? how bout gloss topcoat? maybe you should try that before repainting, as it would probably make the original paint job look better

Hmm can someone share out how to use saintpaper polish the model, remove the cutting area? Just want to learn for it, because i totally no go for paint, so what can do is for remove those cutting area will be nice.

no paint means no sanding already..sanding = scratch
then need to paint already to cover the scratch

the best way is to shave out those cutting parts...use craft knife to do that or at least a nail clipper like people here mention always...

nail clipper don't always work..it'll become like my MG WZC posted in mecha show off thread..so in the end craft nice wud be best.

then u shud strip off the paint 1st, otherwise ur paint job wont be nice.. (forgot what to use to strip off gold paint d).. coz the gold paint is plated (so it's kinda thick.. if u sprayed on top of it.. it will bcom thicker.. will obscure many details)
As for the gold paint, tamiya gold leaf kinda sucks, try use silver (gunze's Mr. Color looks quite good), then coat it with yellow/orange..
i think the gold color thing is quite subjective.. it maybe nice to me but not for others..
try out few combinations 1st will definitely help )



7) Ampang City Square Plaza - Hobby HQ (just ask the infomation counter at ground floor they will tell u where)


Try nail polishing stick (looks like colorful nylon cloth) from watson/guardian, wil give u clean and smooth/gloss finish

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Added on June 26, 2007, 6:31 pmoh.. yeah..

who knows where (shop in klang valley) to get modding parts like those of kotobukiya and from Wave (modelling support goods) like those "minus mold", rivets, etc???

thanks thanks..

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Jun 26 2007, 06:31 PM

i'm looking for those too... unfortunately, there isnt any shops selling it here in Malaysia. I've been asking around for quite some time. Most hobby shops in SG sell modelling tools n accesories. I found most of the accesories there and i bought some during the previous trip.
Oh ya... HLJ sells lots of kotobukiya parts. Can try order from them, its not really expensive since the shipping cost wont be high coz those things are light n small.

This post has been edited by Kyoshiro: Jun 26 2007, 06:58 PM

Hmm... TM does sell some parts but i don think they have kotobukiya.
So far i can't find any shop selling kotobukiya parts in klang valley. I'm looking for the thrusters too... Luckily my fren has some, so i just borrow them n recast.
I think if u order from HLJ u can try shipping them by EMS. Should reach within a week, it would cost more though. Like wat i would say, money buys time

Ok, so here's again question about topcoat again

Since i heard about boiling the can of topcoat before use it..
Does everytime when i want to use topcoat again, i need to do that again on the same can that i want to use?

lol
not boil the can la..later explode how?

just put the can in the hot water for few minutes...everytime before you use it lo...

u just get a smooth spraying only...so depends on you wanna warm it up first or not...

Hmm i usually use cutter to remove those cutting area, very smooth but sometime see a square there, like deep inside or more shinning area on that cutting part. Nail polish also nice but if polish too hard that area become blink blink XD.

Ok for those modding part and joint, the Ampang PARAGON POINT SHOPING CENTRE Af-Hobby got sell! I got few of my Kotobukiya joint there and also they sell thruster, small metal for modding and plenty other stuff like tat!

Haha...yaya, Hot water, i forgot it..oh,
that's mean warm up everytime i used no problem rite.

Btw, i follow those instruction on line on how to use sand paper to smooth those gunpla part's area, but how come most time i use to smooth, that area will become dirty & not smooth enough?
I had tried ermm..i think is 300, 400, 600, 800, & 1000, still like that,
also i tried to use wet the part first before using it, or just wet a little on the sand paper first...

does your sandpaper waterproof first or not?

VincC i think u should keep this thread as clean as possible or maybe pint down all those important information at the first 2 - 3 page and maybe delete those conversation....

So in the end we will not need to repeat and repeat our answer again again.

if it repeated...i will delete it
(even this replies also i will delete it later on)

i will clean up this topic once a while...and update a bit on the first reply later on..for all the important information

I update my post in the front page so u may as well check there.

Some weathering tips:

Objective: U've seen the armour surface of those mobile suits that's spent too long in space right? Pot Marked surface, after spending too long being plummeted by space debries of various sizes, especially the smaller ones that don't really damage the MS, but just leave marks on the surface. So was wondering on how to achieve this.

Considerations: Thinner that eats plastic was my first thought. However the tough part here is trying to figure out how not to overdo it, and how to do it right. Rubbing thinner on the surface wont do, as it'll just leave a rough surface all over. Same goes for submerging the plastic in thinner. It'll just warp completely.


Solution: Took a container of water, added thinner (1 part thinner to 30 part water) into it (they don't mix btw.). Put in a little bit of detergent to help reduce the liquid tension of the water, as this will help to get the thinner to spread throughout the water in smaller blobs. Close the container, shake very well. Soak the plastic pieces in there for about an hour, then check the results. Leave longer if needed

The Results:



The piece was originally a dark blue, and this is after I've sprayed on a thin layer of Mr Surfacer (to get it ready for painting, and also to make the markings more visible to be shown here). Should there be too much of such markings for your liking, then u can fill it up by applying Mr Surfacer using a paint brush right out of the bottle, then do a bit of sanding work.


Afterthoughts:

This method pretty much allows for those marks to be randomly scattered throughout the model, which is both good and bad. Good 'cause it looks realistic, bad as u cant really control it, resulting in the possibility of more marks in an area that's partially covered by a larger piece of armor (which is not really realistic).

So the best solution around this is to plan your soaking of the pieces in batches properly, rather than chucking everything in at a single time. Outer armor pieces which r to look the most battered will receive the longest soak in the solution, of which u can also play around with the water to thinner ratio. Other pieces will go in for a shorter amount of time once that's done.

This post has been edited by fyire: Jun 27 2007, 07:11 PM

i wanna ask.. i alwiz see ppl do modification on gundams.. wat mods can be done? any links? i wanna try some on my new kit... thanks in advance

modding are not easy and you have to know what are you doing...
and here in malaysia..wanna buy all those stuff for mod are expensive

cheapest mods r of the DIY variety, where u use your own imagination. But make sure to practice on a Bendi model first before doing it on ya Bandai

ic ic... hmm.. can i kno wat mods can be done? wat equipment needed? how much are they? thanks

any full tips on how to hand paint bb gundam ?

^

paint,

mixer bowl,

thinner (i use leveling thinner so the paint slow dry and have a better brush stroke),

brush (depends on how wide on how small the areas) 00 size for small area are recommended...try to avoid chinese brush,

tissues...lol,

and most important of all...steady hand...try to hold your breath of something to get those steady hands...lol

Wow nice thread! Here are some of my contribution although i am a noob myself.

To strip off the gold colour from any plastic (MG Hyaku Shiki), go get yourself a DOT3 brake fluid. You can get this from any petrol station. Soak all the bling bling part overnight in the fluid (dont worry, those fluid is not corrosive so it will not harm the plastic). After 1 night you might see the gold colour coming off but you might have to soak it longer than that. This also works if u want to strip paints of a part.

The easiest modification in my opinion is adding panel line. Just get yourself a razor blade and some tough tape and you can start to scribe extra panel line that you add some depth into the detail of the kit.

Errr... i think that is all for now.

Ps: I suggest that we join this thread together with the airbrush thread since it is interrelated.

using brake oil will make the plastic very very fragile....

pls think twice....

if use leveling thinner, do i stil need thinner? or the leveling thinner is already the thinner which dry up slower?
wat kind of paint to use? enamel isit?

i remember last time i use a marble cleaner to remove chrome paint.. but the plastic become a bit flat on its surface, dunno if originally it's flat coz its a bendi.

anyway, can try on the sprues first..

yes...use leveling thinner no need any other thinner already...
leveling there is actually a thinner with a add up retarder inside...to slow down the drying process...

leveling thinner are for oil base paint...like i said before..i only use enamel for lining...
me always paint with oil base paint...

from my understanding, each paint types has its own thinner and also depends on brands as well...
i have mr.hobby paints(odd caps, i believe this is lacquer paints) = mr.hobby leveling thinner + retarder mild
tamiya enamels = tamiya enamel thinner.

tamiya acrylics and mr.hobby aqueous(not sure the spelling) = water but also read that to get lesser brush strokes on using these paints, u can add few drops of mr. retarder mild so that the paint would level out and dries slowly and evenly like using mr.hobby lacquer paints...

ok, here's my question...as acrylic paint uses water as solvent or thinner, i may assume that water is recommended...
but, do u guys have any other suggestions?

as for lacquer paint, other than using mr.hobby thinner, be it normal or leveling thinner, are there any other cheaper alternatives that does the job equally?

how bout enamel paints as well?

Acrylics, I tend to use a mix of water and spirits for the thinning. No idea about using retarder on acrylics, but I tend to get pretty good surfacing when I mix Tamiya Acrylics with Citadel Acrylics, on a 1:1 ratio. The paint has to be pretty diluted when applied using a hand brush, so u'll need multiple layers. The key here is patience. I only use acrylics for hand brushing.

Lacquer paint, I've been using hardware thinner (Zebra brand, available for RM3.80), and so far so good. Lacquer is what I use for airbrushing.

Enamel paints, I've only used those for lining work. Thin those with Zippo fluid. A cheaper alternative will be turpentine, but that stinks like mad, and dries rather slowly too, so hence Zippo fluid's recommended.

u guys heard of ms-newgen.com?
from thai n they sell metal/aluminium thrusters..
i think the price is ok..though i dunno how's the shipping price is.
but since its close so not much i guess..

oh yeah i wonder if anyone here have tried re-cast..huhu

thx for the reply...
anyway, few more qs...
is it ok to handpaint using lacquer paints thinned with the zebra thinner?
as for spirits, i've seen these mineral odorless spirits at ace hardware, is this type of spirit recommended or any spirits will be fine?
what about isoprophyl alcohol aka rubbing alcohol?
thx..

as suggested by fyire, Zebra brand shud be ok for lacquer paint (i just bought 1 bottle too but havn't try yet )
if u gonna handpaint, there might be some issues:
1) brush strokes
2) so u use thinned paint, brush few times, but when u use a too diluted paint u might have problems wt paint sticking to ur plastic, so better prime ur plastic
3) u might need to hand paint few layers (3-6) of thin and diluted paint, waiting for each layer to dry is pain in the ass

u can't use spirit or alcohol for lacquer. only mr. thinner or zebra brand thinner
i got my own thinner (from my fren who works in paint factory), but need to test whether it's gonna be the same with zebra brand thinner or not.

for acrylics, u can use water but pls use distilled (battery water), no tap water pls.
if u want the paint to flow better, try add in few drops of retarder, or u can try add some contact lense buffer solution. coz it has a detergent effect, where it's able to reduce the water tension properties, it prob help the paint to flow i guess. coz some ppl use detergent water (0.5%)

lol..actually sometimes those hardware thinner are ok to mix with oil base paint(mr hobby)...like yesterday...i accidently mix up my paint with a hardware thinner (mistaken the bottle thought it was leveling thinner...as they are sitting side by side)...

turn out to be the paint slow dry also...act almost the same as leveling...but i just be lucky...maybe i should test it again...lol

anyone here know how to use a primer ? wats the use of a primer ? i have a metal diecast car... and wanna respray it to other color.. first thing is wat should i use to strip of the paint? brake fluid ? or is there any other "cleaner" method ? because if do those thing at home will be very dirty and hard to clean up...

primer is surfacer...its to cover the whole surface from original color...

i prefer to use mr surfacer rather than to strip the original paint.
more safer and more cleaner that way...less hassle also

thx for the reply...
lastly, whats spirit and alcohol can be used for model paints?

okay.. if this is not clear enuf..

tamiya acrylics
mr. hobby aqueous
humbrol acrylics acqueous

suitable/ compatible solvents: distilled water, rubbing alcohol, methylated spirit, mr. thinner

tamiya enamel
testors enamel
shud use enamel thinner (from respective brand), zippo lighter fluid

mr. color (lacquer type)
Mr. Thinner (not the aqueous type thinner), Zebra brand thinner, other industrial thinner shud be compatible (u can try mixing it, if u see no clotting/emulsifying/ precipitation.. means dissolvable)

Word of caution: stronger thinner usually dissolve more types of paint, so test on scrap plastic first (might dissolve plastic as well)

NEVER APPLY PAINT WHICH HAS A STRONGER THINNER/SOLVENT THAN THE UNDERCOAT PAINT

E.G. if u have painted with acrylic paints that uses alcohol as ur solvent, DO NOT apply another layer of paint that uses thinner, IT WILL MELT/SMEAR your 1st layer paint

LAST WORD...

GOODLUCK

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Jun 29 2007, 01:38 PM

Its really up to your imagination on how you want to use each type of paint, so lacquer thinned with hardware thinner can also be hand brushed, just that I was stating my personal preferences earlier. Personally I find lacquer to be too fast drying to hand paint for my liking, but you can do your own experiments and see what results u can get if u're to add a retarder to the paint mix.

As for spirits, the Zebra brand methylated spirits works pretty well for me (this' only for acrylics!). Isoprophyl, never used that, but from what I've read elsewhere on the internet, this also works well.

dude.. paint stripping it's gonna b a dirty job..

like VincC said, if u think its messy, just prime it loh..

but if u strip the paint, u shud use a metal primer
(if i'm not mistaken, there shud be metal and plastic primer, thou some brands didn't specify, but i guess there's some diff in it)

with primer, there's few things u don have to worry after u re-spray
1) paint peel off
2) paint cracked (if u spray on top of another paint)
3) color u intend to appear is diff in the final spraywork
4) got coarse/ foreign material stick to the surface (after priming u can see defects easily)

i belif theres more.. but above are some of my experience for sharing

thx for all the replies guys...
now need to find time to build and paint...

but other than cover the surface color... will it make the paint more shiny after dry ?? where can i get it ??

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Added on June 29, 2007, 5:50 pmthanks for ur reply also.... currently i spray ontop of the red color paint .... spray black colour... the final work ... paint is not as smooth as i thought... then got buble inside... and now its like the black color peel off edi

This post has been edited by Jackygwh: Jun 29 2007, 05:50 PM

bubble means either too near to the spraying surface or to much paint on it already

yes...dont care what grade or primer u use...it still depends on what type of paint you use...if the paint is glossy...then the surface will be shiny...if flat...then surface will have a dull effect

hey thanks guys for ur reply..... but mr surfacer is cream like paint... how to use ?? need to have air brush ?

Mr Surfacer is available in 2 types, one is the bottle (the one u were refering to), and the other is in the form of a spray can.

The bottle variety can be used in 2 ways, one is to thin it down for spraying (using it as a primer), or brushed right onto the bottle (using it as a liquid putty). For the kind of use that u've got in mind, u'll need to thin it down using thinner, and spray from an airbrush.

Or if u don't have an AB, then just look for the spray cans.

ya... so i think hav to buy can one.... jus strip of the old paint ? and spray the primer on it b4 respray to other color

thanks ya

if you are uisng the primer already...what for wanna strip the original paint first...

paint stripping may help at times, especially when the original layer isnt done that well, or is not smooth. thick application of primers may help with this but also risk obscuring the details

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Added on July 1, 2007, 1:51 pmlook at the original paint job first, u may or may not need to strip off the paint. if there's some uneven parts, then just sand those away, then prime, the look at the results.

basically, its a series of sand, prime, inspect. if there's parts u're not happy with, then sand again, prime, and inspect till u're happy with the results.

its only in the most severe cases that u need to resort to paint stripping.

This post has been edited by fyire: Jul 1 2007, 01:51 PM

because the brand is maisito so the paint job is bad..... so i wanna strip off first and prime it... then repaint think tat will looks better hehe

erm...duno here right place t post...my bro just started gundam and he wants to know a few things about painting...he asked this:
i started handbrushing before and my work turned out messy and rough( not really what i wanted) so i want to know...is those spray paint that toycity sell...those tamiya ones good? and wha is airbrushing? what else do i need to have to paint? and what are those "washes" and drybrushing is all about?and can hardware paint hurt my gundam?
and lastly...can someone provide me the cost of these things? help much aprreciated!

This post has been edited by saikuan: Jul 3 2007, 12:01 AM

providing u a cost for modeling is almost like telling u how much u shud spend for ur new year clothes

well.. like i've said, it's too general, very subjective.. u can use as low as less than rm20 to get decent tools to fix ur kit or u can spend more than rm100..

it's rili depending on ur personal needs.

as for painting ur kit, i belif there been so many ppl giving advices on how to paint ur kits, same goes for weathering, washes and drybrushing in LYN. if's it's not enuf i belif the internet sources is filled with unlimited tutorials on these topics..

go search the internet la brader.

after u have read some tutorials.. i belif u will learn alot.. if u ask questions also, ppl are more willing to reply u, at least u aredi know someting basic and know wat to ask

nothing is easy 1 loh hoh starting is always difficult.. i belif evryone here esp those experience guys also face the same problem wt u.
u r not alone..

gear-up dude!!!

hey thanks...as u read in the last post...im the bro...lolx...jus make account today...now i just wanna know...how much is the cost of spray paint? rm20? what can i get with rm20? coz i just started out...so i want to just use a cheap budget...(i live on parents money and allowance...not like brother saikuan...got a job...lol)

thanks in advance!

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Added on July 3, 2007, 10:46 pmo yea...one more thing...how much does paint cost...just a rough cost will help...and ... o yea...my fren asked me where to get styrene plastic and its cost too...tQ!

This post has been edited by zheyuen: Jul 3 2007, 10:46 PM

ok...
for tamiya spray paint RM29.90/can
tamiya surface primer L (gray) RM36/can
tamiya fine surface primer L (white) RM39.90
gunze mr.hobby mr. super clear (TM BTS price) RM40/can

alternative u can use Arrow industrial spray can roughly between RM5-RM8, depends where u buy la, hardware shops price are cheaper than supermarket price(unless on offer la).

for tamiya spray can and primer, any Tamiya Toycity sells them, but most of the time no stock for the paint u want...
u can try visit Tamiya Underground @ One Utama, they got more stocks..
styrene sheets aka pla-plate also can be found at Tamiya Underground...

tips for painting ur kits, primer is very important as it will help ur paint to stick better to ur kits...

have fun...

Woo! really looks like investing in an airbrush is really worth it, considering that the upkeep is much lower after that. The bottled paints r far far cheaper than the spray cans, and all u need is heaps of thinner (cheap industrial thinner will do also)

i totally agree with u there...
i'm starting a fund to buy n AB set now, so, no more buying kits although tempted to buy one, if minus fund got extra, i'll get 1 kit...
i just bought mr.hobby lacquer paints, 5 bottles to be exact and 1 bottle mr.surfacer 1000, cost me RM59.90 at XL M.valley...
if got AB, just add RM3.50(i think la)for Zebra thinner, cost will be around RM64.00...
RM700-RM800 for a complete AB set sounds cheap now...
i cant seem to find bottled clear coat, matte and gloss...
i might be getting an AB in few months time...

bottle paint - RM6
spray can - RM30
lining markers - RM9
surfacer spray can - RM24
surfacer bottle - RM15
thinner 110 - RM15
leveling thinner 110 - RM16
masking neo - RM15
metal paint series - RM9
topcoat - rm30
masking tape - RM12
tamiya cutter - RM89
craft knife - RM16

now...you need to do your homework and scout everywhere if you wanna find cheap stuff or the stuff that you want...

just sitting around and wait people to mouth feed you wont get you anything...

This post has been edited by VincC454: Jul 4 2007, 10:04 AM

yup...agree with this statement as well...
ur easiest resources are here, everything from shops locations to all itsy bitsy parts u need for building ur kits..
some detail parts aren't available locally where u can obtain from online retailers such as hlj and rainbowten to name a few...
then, u have to go and look around physically to get all the things u want...
there are forum members that do sell these details part but u have to contact them urself..
have a nice day modelling..

hello guys..im relli new in modelling..plan to start off this hobby with a few beautiful planes..my question is..
1)how do i practice my painting skills before moving on to the big thing?
2)is airbrush a must?a bit expensive for me..ive noticed the spray can type of paint at model shops..can i use those to replace the airbrushes?
3)do i need normal paintbrush?
3)what are the basic tools i might need to start painting or building a model?

i dun know anything and it makes me feel bad..

1. just keep on painting your model la..practice make prefect mah..remember..skill never come overnight...you need to work on it...with effort

2. airbrush is not a must...unless you want a very nice looking model..then maybe u need one already...there is many spray can out there..dont care hardware one or model one...spray can cannot do the effect like what AB can do...shading and all that...the spray can are good to spray on a large area..and get a smooth finish...

3. normal watercolor paint brush will do...

4. paint, thinner, brush, cutter, sandpaper, etc...deja vu

This post has been edited by VincC454: Jul 4 2007, 03:37 PM

just wondering........
does any one try to mod those unmovable hands and legs??
to make it to be able to move?
cant find a guide any where at all...not sure any one did this b4 or not...

to those who r new to the hobby.. welcome..

my advice for newcomers are:

1st: do some reading 1st.. internet is full with abundant info on how to start plastic modelling.. if u think it's too much to learn.. always go to their tutorial section.. those are usually easier to catch up.. u might find new terms and technical jargon/tools.. don sweat.. come back here and ask again
(tamiya.usa got some tutorials, or just try type "gundam", u'll end up wt millions of website, simply look for those proper website that has tutorial sections)

2nd: start building ur kit. if u worry u'll screw up the kit, don worry.. if u r into gundam, try Bandai's Master Grade line of gundams.. those are user frendly nowadays, shudn't be much problem even for new comers.. jus that painting will be a challenge for time being
if u r into tamiya kits, well, u rili need to do basic study on how to glue ur kit and paint it.
my 1st paint job screw up big time. 95% of ppl who painted their kit for the 1st time dislikes their work, they think they'd screwed it up..
well.. its normal.
painting fails, paint again lah... (u just need window cleaner to clean/ strip away your paint if u r using tamiya/gunze acrylics. try not using gunze's lacquer for beginners, and never try to dip ur kit in thinner, never.. ever..)

3rd: practice.. practice.. practice..

and Goodluck!!!

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Jul 4 2007, 04:47 PM

i use nail remover to remove the paint....
using gundam pen though.....

but i have search the net but cant find waht i wanted....a mod on those hand and leg of low grade gundam.......the arm and leg cant move at all...

that particular mods requires u to be very patient..
for static joints like the NG 1/144 kits, u need to cut the elbow and knee and create a new joint using pla-plate,extra polycaps or even ball joints..
for starters, try to get HGUC 1/144 kits bcoz that particular kits are better in term of articulation on most of the joints and make it as ur reference on doing mod joints for ur NG 1/144 kits...
the best one is getting and MG kits as its articulation is a good reference...
have fun..

erm...no other way than to use those joints??
like created something of ur own....
got site that show this kind of mods???
thanks....
dunno what its called in the first place

for an NG 1/144 kits, what u c is what u dont get actually..
the box art always show a lot of articulation, and most of it were taken from either HGUC or MG box art..
once u build it, thats it...
elbows,knees,wrist,waist r static...
limited movement on the shoulders,hips,ankles and the head..
u need to separate the elbow and knees then create ur own joint to make it movable..
so far, i havent seen any progress pics on NG 1/144 kits regarding joint mods..
sorry...

oh....that's y hard to find....

hmmm.....
have to think of something....

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Added on July 4, 2007, 7:41 pmbtw...thanks for the tips....

This post has been edited by beehawk: Jul 4 2007, 07:41 PM

i can use industrial spray? seriously...? dude...i heard it melts my kit...i dunwan to hurt my gundams...lolx...and whats gunze mr.hobby mr. super clear (TM BTS price) for? tqtq

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Added on July 4, 2007, 10:02 pmwhoa! man ...so many stuff! gundams really make us save up bucks!
so those can help us in gundam building and painting? btw... u mean we put a bottle paint into a spray can or wad? i dun really get it...

This post has been edited by zheyuen: Jul 4 2007, 10:02 PM

No lar, that one's just a generic list. If u use spray cans, then u wont need the paint bottles.

Basically if u're intending to spray, then u just need these:
- spray cans
- top coat
- primer

however those can be pretty expensive already, considering that each spray can costs like RM24 to RM30

then for the lining, u can use either the gundam markers, or u can use Tamiya Enamel paints thinned with Zippo lighter fluid with a fine paint brush.

can use those industrial spray cans...
1st, prime ur kits for color spray to stick to ur kits...
it also will create some sort of protection to ur kits...
dont spray to near...spray it light mist for few layers until its evenly coated...
gunze mr. hobby mr. super clear is the clear coat spray...

Hey Vinc... is really great for u to create a tread Like this. Should be very usefull. Especially with a Sifu like you here.

I have a question bout CHrome, Silver, aluminium or watever in these catagories..
Are you guys able to get wat you really want for all these effect?

Lets take example.. Now i want to repaint My Leader Class Optimus Prime... those grey plastic parts to CHrome finish like in d movie.. If I just buy the CHROME paint then i will surely get the effect? I dont really want silver.. with those tiny glittering thing in it after paint.

Kinda confusing when choosing paint between all these Chrome-silver-aluminium-metalgun..etc pls share some tips here

well..sincerely also...i never get what i want also for the metal effect

even if i use those mr.metal series paint...

i use aluminium one before...not shiny
gold one also not shiny and not yellowish
never try chrome silver before..actually mr.metal bronze also looks like a gold...but again..i never try it before

for shiny silver paint(forgot the no.) those leave those tiny glittering effect on your surface

cliv.. u r talking about chrome effect rite (like mirror one rite)?

nope.. u won't achieve using those effect..

the closest u can achieve is shiny but stil "can't-see-ur-face" effect.
and that one have to use gunze's super metalic series (last time sold at rm35, hard to find here la)

those chrome effect is achievable due to electroplating, put the plastic in chemical running under certain electricity. normal ppl can't do one woh..

This is such a COmplicated knowledge. Ha ha..

I just bought mr color-metalic-Silver-primary.... I guess this one is the lacquer paint right? d one with more special cap for us to turn.

Havent try it out. But since im going to paint on transformer..which involve a lot of hand touching mayb scratching... is best to use this lacquer paint compare to acrylic paint as d paint is stronger... Please correct me if im wrong

Can I directly Painted on top of d plastic? Or should I need to Primer it first? Like gundam-----sand-primer--paint--topcoat.?

got 2 types of paint, either in bottle or in spray can...
in spray can just like u see in shopping complex, open cap, press nozzle and voila, ur kits got paint...
bottle paint is different...like u buy buncho poster color but this one for model kits...
u thinned this bottled paint using respective thinner then choose ho u wanna paint ur kits, using brush like water color or using airbrush...
hope this help..

here's something that I find rather useful. Not to do with actual modelling itself, but helps a lot in the finishing.

if u've got a decent camera with decent optical zoom, take various zoomed in pics of your model, different parts of it from different angles, in good lighting.

study those zoomed in pics, and u might find that there's various areas that needs cleaning up that u may have missed, as its easier to detect those by studying pics taken with good light and zoomed in, compared to scrutinizing your model with your naked eye.

i read in dannychoo the spray can paint can paint a mg kit. isit real? i tried using bottled ones and hand paint and custom color...quite bad...so i think ill just use spray paint and paint back the exact color of the gundam.

u guys sure hardware paint can work? my dad use to sell these things ( 8 years before i was born =.=) and he says it cant. some say it will melt it...i need more reassurance...lolx!

Yup, it can be done. but he's using spray cans made for models.

Also, what bottled paints r u using? Lacquer or acrylics? I personally prefer acrylics for hand painting, 'cause I find that lacquers dries too fast for my liking when hand painting. I've been hand painting acrylics for years before I finally got myself an airbrush, and I can say that its very much possible to get a smooth coat on your model by handpainting acrylics (although the shadowing effect may be kinda difficult to do. thus I make up for that by dry brushing instead).

This will also depends on the paint itself, as there's a lot of different types. U know the left over plastic frames from your models after u cut out the pieces? Spray on those first to test if it'll be ok or not.

i have done sum research on the net..and need to ask sum advice about painting..shud i paint b4 assembling or do i finish the whole thing before i start painting?they recommended 'paint as you go'..and about the paint brushes..its not advisable to use cheap panda brand brushes right?and finally..if i use acrylic paint and botched my model..thinner will do the job right?

btw..if u guys have any good websites for beginners(real beginners )..please share it with me yea...thanks in advance!

I'd recommend painting as you go. If you already finished a model, lets say a gundam, you're going to have parts with different color near each other right? If you paint then you're going to get paint all over your model, i.e. you're painting the blue chest part and oops you accidentally get some blue on the white parts. Also, you can't paint certain areas like joints etc. when you're figure is complete.

Definitely don't use cheap brushes. The glue they use to stick the bristles to the brush handle on those are horrid, and ends up being disolved by the solvents in your paint, so when you're painting you're going to leave brush bristles all over your model.

Acrylics would usually be water based paint. Washing the piece before the paint dries should remove most of it. I used to keep a toothbrush and actually use toothpaste to scrub away the paint if I botched up a work in progress. Thinner works but then you run the risk of melting the plastic on the model, especially on pieces with minor details or panel lines. I remember once botching up badly on a HG Deathscyth's backpack and chucking the thing into a mixture of water and thinner (I was young and it was the first kit I painted, and I added only around 1:9 thinner!) and ending up with a lump of plastic.

U can assemble the model completely first, but you'll need to take it apart again in order to paint.

For the paint brushes, you'll need a size 8 flat, size 4 flat for surface painting, and a size 000 for getting into the smaller areas. Not sure about how the panda brand brushes is like, but well, there's really no need to go for the super expensive types. At the same time, its also a good idea to get decent types, especially for the flats, as this will have an effect on how smooth the paint will be on your model.

acrylic paints, for simple messups, I clean up using spirits (not thinner!). for the more massive paint stripping jobs for acrylic painted models, I take apart the model completely, and soak the parts in a solution of detergent, dettol and water. Leave it there for 12 hours, then just scrub using an old toothbrush.

lol...i use some cheapo brushes only...
common brush is the least you need to worried about hurting your kits...

you guys been talking about using hardware spray and hardware thinner...those can do more harm to your kits then just a silly cheapo brushes...

hardware thinner and spray totally depends on luck..sometimes it melt ur kits sometimes it dont...and also if you just enough or little of it..then it wont melt...then if you accidently use too much then its melt...

just leave the hardware thinner for cleaning...

here how you paint your gundam following what level you are....

if you are a beginner...then paint your kits as you go...this way you wont mess up to much and less broken parts taken them off...
you can also spray the parts straight from the runner but this leave a unpaint mark when you cut them all off

for less beginner....you can build them up first..then you can see which part to paint first so you got a better painting planning...

thanks...i use acrylic too...just my hand isnt steady enuff...so i think ill jus use spray can...lolx.
what is the method used to make ur gundam more like a 3d look...sumthing lke shadowy on its parts....is that shadowing?
what do i use fr that?
do i topcoat after or before that?
and lastly...if i were to buy styrene plastic...can i paint it with hardware paint or use model paints like gundams?

hard ware spray where melt gunpla plastic....i bought all brands my kit now already 3years still perfect condition...this kit also in this year seed competition...still nothing happens nia..


buy hardware tinner MOST will melt=,=

shadowing or shading need AB to do it..and some time can be done by drybrush...but its not easy...
topcoat is a final coating...so meaning the last step

if the paint wanna melt your kit..means is going to melt it on the very second it touch your kit...not after 3 years only it will melt...

thanks for the feedback guys!
btw..all my models will be airplanes and which kind of part i can paint straight on the tree?
ive came across sum confusing terms..seems to occur alot but din describe what exactly is it..

1)base coat/top coat
2)primer (???)
4)decal settling agent

and the acrylic paints..do i just dip and paint or need to mix with water etc?how many coats are needed?
ive read that a paint shud be left to dry for one whole day..does this apply to finished painting or between coats?
will be visiting Hobby HQ in city square tmrw..any last advice?

wet paper and dry paper whats the difference?i read from a website where he sandpaper after painted..wont be scratched meh liddat?

here



This post has been edited by aztechx: Jul 8 2007, 02:08 AM

1. topcoat is your very last step...its act as a final protecting layer for your paint and decal.
2. those to prime your kit surface...before actually paint them...come either in white, grey, black
3. decal settling got 2 type, one is setter one is soften...but to me...both act almost the same. this liquid made your decal softer and most of the time been use with water slide decal.

everything painting related also is best to let them settle and dried for 24 hours...this also can prevent the paint from scratching when you do the assembly later on.

if you planning to spray the whole runner...spray those parts then even after you cut them off the runner...you wont see the cutting mark when the kits are done...and i think if a plane model...those parts like at the cockpit and wings