All the question can be ask here and also hope we can share all the building and painting tips over here.

This post has been edited by VincC454: Jul 16 2007, 10:51 PM

well..i get most of my paint supplies from TM also..but not thinner...lol they sell leveling till RM20..where others sell RM15

scout around for best price before you buy...paint and thinner are important if you wanna make ur model looks nice...but also they run out very very fast...

one more shop you can get crafting accessories like craft knife and airbrushing accessorries is from petaling street venus art.

and for the gold question...this is the most trickiest color of all...how to make it goldish..how to make it shinny...how to make it doesnt look like poo...

anyone with a proper tips with this gold issues?

no paint means no sanding already..sanding = scratch
then need to paint already to cover the scratch

the best way is to shave out those cutting parts...use craft knife to do that or at least a nail clipper like people here mention always...

lol
not boil the can la..later explode how?

just put the can in the hot water for few minutes...everytime before you use it lo...

u just get a smooth spraying only...so depends on you wanna warm it up first or not...

does your sandpaper waterproof first or not?

if it repeated...i will delete it
(even this replies also i will delete it later on)

i will clean up this topic once a while...and update a bit on the first reply later on..for all the important information

modding are not easy and you have to know what are you doing...
and here in malaysia..wanna buy all those stuff for mod are expensive

^

paint,

mixer bowl,

thinner (i use leveling thinner so the paint slow dry and have a better brush stroke),

brush (depends on how wide on how small the areas) 00 size for small area are recommended...try to avoid chinese brush,

tissues...lol,

and most important of all...steady hand...try to hold your breath of something to get those steady hands...lol

yes...use leveling thinner no need any other thinner already...
leveling there is actually a thinner with a add up retarder inside...to slow down the drying process...

leveling thinner are for oil base paint...like i said before..i only use enamel for lining...
me always paint with oil base paint...

lol..actually sometimes those hardware thinner are ok to mix with oil base paint(mr hobby)...like yesterday...i accidently mix up my paint with a hardware thinner (mistaken the bottle thought it was leveling thinner...as they are sitting side by side)...

turn out to be the paint slow dry also...act almost the same as leveling...but i just be lucky...maybe i should test it again...lol

primer is surfacer...its to cover the whole surface from original color...

i prefer to use mr surfacer rather than to strip the original paint.
more safer and more cleaner that way...less hassle also

bubble means either too near to the spraying surface or to much paint on it already

yes...dont care what grade or primer u use...it still depends on what type of paint you use...if the paint is glossy...then the surface will be shiny...if flat...then surface will have a dull effect

if you are uisng the primer already...what for wanna strip the original paint first...

bottle paint - RM6
spray can - RM30
lining markers - RM9
surfacer spray can - RM24
surfacer bottle - RM15
thinner 110 - RM15
leveling thinner 110 - RM16
masking neo - RM15
metal paint series - RM9
topcoat - rm30
masking tape - RM12
tamiya cutter - RM89
craft knife - RM16

now...you need to do your homework and scout everywhere if you wanna find cheap stuff or the stuff that you want...

just sitting around and wait people to mouth feed you wont get you anything...

This post has been edited by VincC454: Jul 4 2007, 10:04 AM

1. just keep on painting your model la..practice make prefect mah..remember..skill never come overnight...you need to work on it...with effort

2. airbrush is not a must...unless you want a very nice looking model..then maybe u need one already...there is many spray can out there..dont care hardware one or model one...spray can cannot do the effect like what AB can do...shading and all that...the spray can are good to spray on a large area..and get a smooth finish...

3. normal watercolor paint brush will do...

4. paint, thinner, brush, cutter, sandpaper, etc...deja vu

This post has been edited by VincC454: Jul 4 2007, 03:37 PM

well..sincerely also...i never get what i want also for the metal effect

even if i use those mr.metal series paint...

i use aluminium one before...not shiny
gold one also not shiny and not yellowish
never try chrome silver before..actually mr.metal bronze also looks like a gold...but again..i never try it before

for shiny silver paint(forgot the no.) those leave those tiny glittering effect on your surface

lol...i use some cheapo brushes only...
common brush is the least you need to worried about hurting your kits...

you guys been talking about using hardware spray and hardware thinner...those can do more harm to your kits then just a silly cheapo brushes...

hardware thinner and spray totally depends on luck..sometimes it melt ur kits sometimes it dont...and also if you just enough or little of it..then it wont melt...then if you accidently use too much then its melt...

just leave the hardware thinner for cleaning...

here how you paint your gundam following what level you are....

if you are a beginner...then paint your kits as you go...this way you wont mess up to much and less broken parts taken them off...
you can also spray the parts straight from the runner but this leave a unpaint mark when you cut them all off

for less beginner....you can build them up first..then you can see which part to paint first so you got a better painting planning...

shadowing or shading need AB to do it..and some time can be done by drybrush...but its not easy...
topcoat is a final coating...so meaning the last step

if the paint wanna melt your kit..means is going to melt it on the very second it touch your kit...not after 3 years only it will melt...

1. topcoat is your very last step...its act as a final protecting layer for your paint and decal.
2. those to prime your kit surface...before actually paint them...come either in white, grey, black
3. decal settling got 2 type, one is setter one is soften...but to me...both act almost the same. this liquid made your decal softer and most of the time been use with water slide decal.

everything painting related also is best to let them settle and dried for 24 hours...this also can prevent the paint from scratching when you do the assembly later on.

if you planning to spray the whole runner...spray those parts then even after you cut them off the runner...you wont see the cutting mark when the kits are done...and i think if a plane model...those parts like at the cockpit and wings

try topcoat it...

why u mix with the lighter fluid anyway...