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Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, Q&A about tips and technique here

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zero1st
post Jul 12 2007, 04:16 PM

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QUOTE(kuposaka @ Jul 12 2007, 02:24 PM)
can anyone please tell me what's the white thing on this zaku's waist cover in box 7-12? coz after that, we just need to spray colour or paint over it  biggrin.gif  i saw the same thing done to mg gyan's head & body in other magazines, thx  rclxms.gif
user posted image
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those are pla plate

QUOTE(GAT-X105 @ Jul 12 2007, 03:52 PM)
is there any gundam model kit club or assosiation in malaysia??
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the only register model club in malaysia is SFTPMS (selangor and federal territory plastic modeling society)
zero1st
post Jul 19 2007, 10:25 PM

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QUOTE(Demon_Eyes_Kyo @ Jul 18 2007, 09:39 PM)
The green ones, always stick already doesnt look even no matter how careful i apply them on. Now I just leave them out, I just put the dry transfer one on.
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for those stickers b4 u apply them make sure ur surface is flat and clean, then apply them start from the edge first slowly and using a cotton bud to even it....

also spraying a layer of gloss coat b4 apply the sticker then a flat coat also helps

and a bit of advice.... if u really wanna use those sticker only use those which have boxes icon, b4 pealing the sticker out cut the stickers at the edge of the box so when apply on the kit it wont look so sticker-ish ...... hope this helps~~~
zero1st
post Aug 15 2007, 12:57 AM

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QUOTE(jlkueh @ Aug 15 2007, 12:08 AM)
By the way, can some one pls enlighten me on the below:

acrylic-->water base-->use ?? thinner
lacquer--> ?? base--> use ?? thinner
enamel-->oil based--> use ?? thinner

Thanks.
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let me try to help u out

Acrylic:
-water base
-can be dilute with water
-can be strip using washing detergent

Lacquer:
-( not sure .... some kind of thinner base .. )
-can be dilute with hardware shop thinner
-can be strip using back the dilute thinner

Enamel:
-oil base
-can dilute and strip with lighter fluid
zero1st
post Sep 22 2007, 01:16 AM

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QUOTE(chriswoo @ Sep 22 2007, 12:12 AM)
hmm does anyone know wat other color match  with metalic blue ? i noob at color mix
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try this website out http://www.colorblender.com/
great for lazy ppl ( like me laugh.gif ) or u have no idea which color to match
although it's a color matching for website but still it works for gunpla ..... just that u need to mix the color out ur self
zero1st
post Oct 4 2007, 11:01 PM

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QUOTE(sooyewguan @ Oct 4 2007, 03:58 PM)
looks like some one in the KL should start an online shop business for hobby tools.
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there is already a local online shop Hobbies Corner happy shopping guys biggrin.gif
zero1st
post Oct 22 2007, 05:53 PM

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QUOTE(leongtat @ Oct 22 2007, 03:42 PM)
Hei issit recommended to get all in one compressor wif air brush set such as from tamiya?
http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/745.../basic_comp.htm
give some comment pls
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the tamiya basic airbrush kit is actually a very good ab set for beginner that wanna start learn abing .... a simple set which can stand alot of abuse and hardly goes wrong ...... it can be run in battery and also in electric just that u need a transformer to hook up in malaysia cause of diff voltage ..... the only bad side is u cant control the air pressure and it dosent have a moister trap ( but can be slove by using a longer tube )

but if the price ur getting it is more then rm 500 then i'll recommend u get the SPARMAX Mini Compressor ....
zero1st
post Oct 29 2007, 07:37 PM

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QUOTE(SWATwolf @ Oct 29 2007, 04:10 PM)
i always see when people tend to change from color A to color B,
their gundams are mostly covered in white.

are those work of Putty?
i see xl-shop sells 2 kinds of putty, one is toothpaste like, and another one look like icecream stick.
can anyone explain how this thing works?

wad does mr. cement do?

Many thanx.
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yup ... those a call primer / surfacer .... it's for checking any errors and tiny line b4 coloring ur kit .......it also help to let the paints to better stick on the kit ...
u can get it at most model shop ......
it come with diff grade : 500, 1000, 1200 ( the bigger the number the finer the particals ) and also it comes in diff colors which is grey and white

major purpose for toothpaste putty r to filling up gaps and small hole

for the icecream stick lookalike putty is for filling up big holes and making parts ( example: horns ) this kind of putty have 2 diff color in the pack.... which u need to mix it both together to let it harden

mr. cement does indeed melts plastic .... it soften up plastic to bond it up together with other plastic ......
zero1st
post Nov 1 2007, 04:10 PM

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a way to preserve ur kit metal shine is to re gloss coat and re polish it when the shine goes down ...... nothing last forever
if u want ur kit to look brand new forever u have to maintain it ...... the above solution i've only try on metal painted kit ..... for those pre coat kit like hyaku shiki im not sure .....
zero1st
post Nov 9 2007, 01:10 PM

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QUOTE(br0ther9630 @ Nov 9 2007, 10:41 AM)
yeah i'm using the GM01 the 0.1 tip marker haha, but unlike the panel lines on the box, and i've been seeing youtube videos the professional don't ever touch markers one. so that why i wanna learn the painting style. my question is more towards the type of equipment i should use smile.gif
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for panel line inking u have to use enamel paint to do it ...... lacquer and acrylic paint is not suitable for panel line inking cause most ppl will be using those as base paint and dun forget about the L.A.E. theory ( lacquer -> acrylic -> enamel )

enamel that i know can be get from malaysia is either tamiya brand or humbrol brand.... u may find tamiya enamel at any tamiya store but be warn it's bit expensive ..... for humbrol enamel u can get it at hobby hq or miniature hobby price r alright ....
zero1st
post Nov 9 2007, 03:38 PM

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yup zoidx_chung point it out ..... lacquer base can melt acrylic and enamel base ..... so if u u acrylic as the base then use lacquer to do lining when u wanna clean the line u will rub away the base as well ..... so enamel is the best for panel line inking since it cant melt lacquer and acrylic.

for tamiya enamel the price i ask is around rm 15 per bottle not sure other place la ....... humbrol enamel not sure the price forget liao but wont be more then rm 10 per bottle .....
zero1st
post Nov 9 2007, 08:08 PM

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QUOTE(br0ther9630 @ Nov 9 2007, 05:35 PM)
and yeah one more thing, enamel needs its own thinner right? can i use my mr. hobby thinner?
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each type of paint base has it's own thinner ...... for enamel if u cant find its thinner then u can replace it with zippo lighter fuel .... but note zippo drys up very fast


QUOTE(pweeapw @ Nov 9 2007, 05:44 PM)
hi... for panel lining i use a technical drawing pen... you can get any of these from any art shops... the tip sizes ranges from 0.1 to 1.0...
the one that i'm using it 0.2...

ink for these pens come in either cartridges or bottled ink... mostly india ink which is waterproof... but i find that i can still remove then with a cotton bud or eraser (rubber)... probably because it's on plastic... i have not tried it with models which i have painted or applied primer/surfacer yet...

also... i use different types of paint with my type of applications... lacquer paints uses thinner as solvents while acrylic paints use water etc etc... with this in mind, it would make your painting easier....

e.g. you paint the whole part with (lacquer paint) white... and then you start to touch up with (acrylic paint) blue... if you make a mistake, all you have to do is to immediately wash it off with water and still retain the base white...

i'm not too good with painting yet... but that's my knowledge on why people use them... smile.gif

having said that... i'm still having a hard time applying a coat of acrylic paint evenly on my kits... i'm guessing that it would be easier if i had a layer of primer... anyone care to enlighten me? tongue.gif
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errr .... once acrylic dry u cant remove it with water .... use cloth detergent to remove acrylic paint will be easier

if u find hard to apply paint on ur kit an easy way is to use high grade sand paper to sand ur kit once so that the paint can have better grab on ur kit ....
zero1st
post Nov 19 2007, 09:54 PM

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QUOTE(zoidx_chung @ Nov 19 2007, 07:32 AM)
so, if wanna do hand panting,
use lacquer, acrylic or enamel paint?
which one is more suitable?
share ur experience pls ^^
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enamel is most suitable for hand painting .... reason is enamel dry slowest among all 3 so not much brush line will be leave behind .....

but take note that the reason they use hand paint is because they wanted to paint those small and hard to reach places .... for big area they usually use spray cans .....

QUOTE(z3r0717 @ Nov 19 2007, 09:30 PM)
From what i know, acrylic is more suitable becoz it doesnt dry fast like lacquer.. but i am using lacquer for handpainting. havnt try arcylic though. tongue.gif
hmm.. enamel i tot for lining only? correct me if i'm wrong  biggrin.gif
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enamel is not just for lining la ..... if u ask around those old military modelers they use more enamel then lacquer and acrylic .....

This post has been edited by zero1st: Nov 20 2007, 02:08 AM
zero1st
post Nov 22 2007, 06:58 PM

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everything is possible ger .....
marker style shading

user posted image

user posted image

this is the marker set that they r using ......

user posted image


since the above way using marker is usable that also means using enamel hand paint is also possible .... just apply the edge and side with enamel paints then slowly blend the side to the center ..... then top coat it so that when doing lining the shading wont be rub off ........

This post has been edited by zero1st: Nov 22 2007, 07:00 PM
zero1st
post Dec 7 2007, 01:08 AM

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an excellent way to do shading by using gundam weathering set marker ...... taken from Dengeki hobby magz Nov issue
although its chinese but by looking at the pic should be understand how it apply .....

user posted image

user posted image

enjoy guys ~~~~~~ biggrin.gif biggrin.gif
zero1st
post Dec 7 2007, 05:04 PM

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QUOTE(z3r0717 @ Dec 7 2007, 01:28 AM)
WOW... thanks a lot.. gonna use this method next year brows.gif
thanks man.. too bad no english ><
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the pic already explain alot liao .....bare with it abit la ....


QUOTE(darklancer @ Dec 7 2007, 01:49 PM)
picture number 5 and 6 are comparison izit? so he only use black.....ic ic

thx for sharing ^^
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ur asking number 5 & 6 on 02-2 right ? .....number 5 is doing dry brushing with shading ..... number 6 is doing dry brush with out shading .......


QUOTE(beehawk @ Dec 7 2007, 03:49 PM)
nice guides...
what happen to the other pages? i know got a few more steps one wor....
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i only post the page on how they do shading with out airbrush .... since many ppl here dosent have 1 ...... for the rest of the page go buy the magz and read ba ..... tongue.gif

zero1st
post Dec 7 2007, 06:16 PM

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QUOTE(zheyuen @ Dec 7 2007, 05:08 PM)
Added on December 7, 2007, 5:54 pmerm... can i ask wads drybrushing ...?
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dry brushing is to high light the edge of metal part ..... when metal been use for some time their edges tend to made contact more then the middle area .... this made the edges expose their metal or lighter color .....

the 02-2 is how dry brush been done ...... 1st apply the color on to ur brush then remove the color on ur brush by using a tissue or cloth until the color is almost gone from the brush ...... next lightly brush the edge ...... there u have ur dry brush effect ......

another easy way to do dry brushing is by using white color pencil ...... just lightly color the tip of the edge with the white color pencil .....

another thing to take note ......after dry brushing remember to coat it with top coat
zero1st
post Jan 10 2008, 08:08 PM

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QUOTE(noob4life @ Jan 9 2008, 07:06 PM)
Eh no one answer my question .. ?  tongue.gif

Well ill ask again... can Mr. Mark Setter be used to apply over decals instead of BEFORE applying decals ?  If not, wat others can be used to do this ? Most of my decals are peeling off... and its kinda ugly...  sad.gif
Thnx in advance.
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Mr. Mark Setter is to apply under the decal not over ..... because Mark Setter is to help the decal stick more better to the kit surface so if u apply over the decal it will not have any effect ...... the 1 that apply over decal is call Mr. Mark softener ......

as for decal peeling off problem chriswoo has answer most of it
zero1st
post Jan 21 2008, 02:04 AM

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abit of side note for u enamel paint user ...... enamel is save with PS plastic but it will harm ABS plastic .... it is not recommend that u apply enamel on ABS plastick cause it will make the plastic become "Crispy" ...... if u guys dunno which part of the kit is ABS plastic check the instruction book .... but mostly will be either the skel frame or the joints .....
zero1st
post Jan 21 2008, 11:16 PM

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QUOTE(zheyuen @ Jan 21 2008, 10:40 PM)
oh man...cant use aa...haiz... thn maybe just use acrylic for that...wad u mean by crispy anyway?
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u still can use just dun paint enamel on ABS ....... u can use tamiya spray can on the skel frame and hand paint enamel on the armor .....

Crispy here mean the resistance of the plastic will become weak ...... if u press it abit harder the plastic will be hancur
zero1st
post Jan 22 2008, 01:21 AM

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QUOTE(crayzee @ Jan 22 2008, 12:39 AM)
I have used enamel on ABS and also PS and it doesn't make the plastic become brittle. I have googled around and found that ABS dissolves in acetone/toluene which one of the main component in hardware lacquer thinner. Unless you are using hardware lacquer thinner to thin enamel paint, for sure the plastic will melt. I think the thinner purposely made for hobby usage won't melt plastic kits. I have used mr.color thinner to strip off my screwed up paint and it doesn't melt the plastic at all.  smile.gif

If you want your paint dry faster you can use humbrol's own thinner or zippo fluid. If your want it dry slower, you can thin it with turpentine or spirit but your paint will be more forgiving thus less brush strokes when it dries. Also i'd recommend to thin instead of using directly out of the bottle so that the paint can have more time to self-level before it dries. (again lesser brush strokes and also more time to fix errors)
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enamel dosent melt ABS plastic directly it eats the plastic slowly making it crispy in the end .......

another reason i disencourage painting enamel on ABS plastic is now day the joints and skel frame of gundam kit r made form ABS plastic which is made to endure abuse so that the kit joints wont lose so easily by applying enamel on it ur making the plastic weak ending up breaking the joints ..... some of u guys should know by now that even if the kit is just snap fit some joints also will break if ur not careful enuf .....

if u guys still need more prove read up 2006 or 2007 issu of dengeki hobby magazine when ABS plastic was introduce in gundam there are written that enamel paints will harm the plastic .....
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