Hi guys,

I have a normal oiless compressor which I'm seriously considering upgrading it by adding an air tank as well as a high pressure cut off switch. My question is, where and how much to do the modification? I find that my current compressor heats up very fast and I can only continously spray for like 15-20 minutes before the compressor would auto turned off. Therefore, I need an air tank for a more stable air flow. Thanks.

1. I normally cut it out from the sprue, then cut off the remaining carefully using xacto knife. If it's smooth, then just leave it, else just sand it with the finest grit you get. I normally cut out the sand paper and stick it to an ice cream stick.

2. You can either go for primer (which is good to see uneveness) or just soak it in soap water to remove all the demould agent left on the plastic. Try to scrub it using some toothbrush.

3. I've never use primer before as laquer = thinner = dissolves plastic. So Mr. colour mixed with mr. colour thinner = good bond on the plastic parts.

4. I've never do weathering..prefer it to be original colour and clean..heh heh..but will do different tones.

5. Decals can be accurately put on to the kit by cutting it out, and placing it on the kit, then use a pencil, preferable 2B or equivalent and just sketch along the decals.

6. Top coat you can either go for acryllic floor cleaner thinned with mr. colour thinner, or you can get Mr. Colour semi gloss or super gloss for your coat.

I'm using enamel based tamiya colour to do my panel line washing. I've tried oil paste before but it was messy. Anyone tried with tamiya water based colour?

Laquer = thinner, and all thinner melts plastics in a way or two. I have a newbie friend who even tried out industrial grade thinner on his sacrificial gundam. Works, but the surface it not that unform. If you are using Mr. Colour's thinner which is meant for airbrushing, try to drop a drop or two of Mr. Retarder to reduce 'spider webs' from you airbrush. Or you can mix in a ratio of 60-70% thinner to 40-30% paints (My method).

Yup..I like dry transfer more than wet ones. Wet ones are a real mess. 2B pencil does not do anything. If you use a pencil to sketch along the decal decoration meant to be transfered to the kit, you can actually see the sketches made by your pencil. In another word, you'll know which area of the decals you have yet to fully 'transfer' to the kit.

It is true. It is for floor cleaning. However, there are some modellers out there using this top coat to give a very hard and durable as well as shiny coating. I've never tried it though, coz you need to buy a whole bottle which cost around RM40 or so.