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 V1 Proton Exora Bold Owners and Fans Thread, Calling all owner and future one...

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TSazlan83
post Jun 4 2012, 02:03 PM, updated 13y ago

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Last thread Short review on Exora bold

As above thread close... lets start another open thread to all Exora bold users and fans. rclxms.gif rclxms.gif thumbup.gif rclxm9.gif



user posted image

user posted image

user posted image


Lotus magazine
- Developed jointly by Proton and Lotus Engineering

- Underwent real life testing in Sweden, Spain and Malaysia

- 1.6 litre turbo, offering good torque curve, same as 2 litre engine

- Able to take RON 88 petrol!

- Engine volume is 1,561 cc instead of 1,597 cc on standard Campro due to reduced stroke, but retained bore

- Meets Euro 5 emission standard

- Despite its Campro beginning, many components and designs are very different

- Different engine volume

- Forged steel crankshaft on CFE instead of iron on the original Campro engine

- Engine cylinder head had to be redesigned for CFE

- Turbocharger supplied by Borg Warner



The owner list so far:

1. ultramaman | White |?
2. azlan83 | Elegance Brown|May 2012|JB
3. Neo1point3 | Cocoa Grey|?
4. mat_tepets | Elegance Brown|?
5. richsense | ? |?
6. karlbum | Silver|?
7. biosfree | ? |?
8. rapidbumi | Silver | Feb 2012
9. cocodemon | ? | ?
10. richsense | Cocoa Grey|?
11. vinorgouki | ?|?
12. Turbocrazy | ? | ?
13. Longy | ? | ?
14. Shah's|Elegance Brown|April 2012
15. amd2105|Elegance Brown|June 2012
16. adijb|?| June 2012
17.giggsmu|?|June 2012
18. brotan | silver | June 2012
19.amd2105|Elegant Brown|June 2012|Kajang
20.keong5661|Silver |May 2012 |Kuching
21.waisiong.chan |Silver|March 2012| USJ.


While the list of booked EB so far

1. Trong-FC | Elegance Brown
2. sendoh_7 | silver
3. zaidi | cocoa grey | booked April 2012




Question and answer by punch powertrain
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
ultramaman
post Jun 4 2012, 02:04 PM

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maman,white exora bold cfe.
TSazlan83
post Jun 4 2012, 02:07 PM

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QUOTE(ultramaman @ Jun 4 2012, 02:04 PM)
maman,white exora bold cfe.
*
welcome...azlan Elangance Brown Exora CFE. So far so good...tomorrow nite
long journey...johor baharu to kelantan. Balik kampung mood rclxm9.gif rclxm9.gif rclxm9.gif
ultramaman
post Jun 4 2012, 02:22 PM

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car already done 12k . so far, so good. no major issues. love d car. money well spent.
neo1point3
post Jun 4 2012, 02:44 PM

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TS, faster create owner list biggrin.gif

Neo1point3 - Bold CFE Premium - Cocoa Grey
brotan
post Jun 4 2012, 03:12 PM

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Just placed a booking for Exora Bold CFE silver color today icon_rolleyes.gif

2 weeks delivery (they claim lah)
mat_tepets
post Jun 4 2012, 03:39 PM

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mat_tepets - Bold CFE Premium - elegent brown

thumbup.gif thumbup.gif
brotan
post Jun 4 2012, 03:41 PM

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QUOTE(mat_tepets @ Jun 4 2012, 03:39 PM)
mat_tepets - Bold CFE Premium - elegent brown

  thumbup.gif  thumbup.gif
*
bro

the brown actually looks like gold right?
mat_tepets
post Jun 4 2012, 03:52 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 4 2012, 03:41 PM)
bro

the brown actually looks like gold right?
*
yeah look like kelisa emas tongue.gif tongue.gif
TSazlan83
post Jun 4 2012, 04:13 PM

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QUOTE(mat_tepets @ Jun 4 2012, 03:52 PM)
yeah look like kelisa emas  tongue.gif  tongue.gif
*
looks like gold...gold fish lah haha mine already 2000KM
So far so good, love the power n sound n space...


Added on June 4, 2012, 4:15 pm
QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 4 2012, 03:12 PM)
Just placed a booking for Exora Bold CFE silver color today  icon_rolleyes.gif

2 weeks delivery (they claim lah)
*
2Week very fast...i took 5 week to get EB

This post has been edited by azlan83: Jun 4 2012, 04:15 PM
Trong-FC
post Jun 4 2012, 05:53 PM

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still waiting my CFE Elegance Brown. a month ++ already.
SA told me next week i can drive my new EB. maybe come with WWW running number hahahaha....
V12Kompressor
post Jun 4 2012, 06:02 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 4 2012, 04:13 PM)
looks like gold...gold fish lah haha mine already 2000KM
*
gold fish is actually orangy in color... hmm.gif

So, Kelisa emas thumbup.gif

tongue.gif
brotan
post Jun 4 2012, 06:03 PM

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QUOTE(Trong-FC @ Jun 4 2012, 05:53 PM)
still waiting my CFE Elegance Brown. a month ++ already.
SA told me next week i can drive my new EB. maybe come with WWW running number hahahaha....
*
which proton dealer you go through?

Maybe becuz i want silver, can get faster (or the SA kelentong me. haha)
TSazlan83
post Jun 4 2012, 06:09 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 4 2012, 06:02 PM)
gold fish is actually orangy in color... hmm.gif

So, Kelisa emas thumbup.gif

tongue.gif
*
yeah...gold arowana...haha..what ever just addicted
to drive it.
brotan
post Jun 4 2012, 06:13 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 4 2012, 06:09 PM)
yeah...gold arowana...haha..what ever just addicted
to drive it.
*
hi bro

are you gonna update something on EB on your 1st post?

would be good to give overview to EB
neo1point3
post Jun 4 2012, 06:16 PM

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Yeah, make it like the preve thread smile.gif take ur time bro
TSazlan83
post Jun 4 2012, 06:17 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 4 2012, 06:03 PM)
which proton dealer you go through?

Maybe becuz i want silver, can get faster (or the SA kelentong me. haha)
*
i buy from proton edar kulis auto pasir gudang...the SA Mr Ameer. he promise me 4 Week but get car after 5week. delay due exora bold got audit on end of april...1Week ago during 1st service he inform me got supply problem...now new car owner have to wait 8week for exora bold...feel lucky not to much delay....tomorrow nite balik kampung can round round with my family...soo syiok
Trong-FC
post Jun 4 2012, 06:18 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 4 2012, 06:03 PM)
which proton dealer you go through?

Maybe becuz i want silver, can get faster (or the SA kelentong me. haha)
*
cheras balakong dealer (they gonna open their 3S center next to columbia hospital balakong).
last 2 week SA has offered me to take the silver color..but i refuse to take it.cuz i want the elegance brown. tongue.gif
silver can get within 2 weeks. when i booked it last month the SA told me, he still pending to deliver 6 EB Elegance Brown color to customer
during 1st week 2 loan approved with 3.3% interest. but after 3 weeks booking, CIMB approved my loan with lowest interest 2.9%...luckily SA ask me to not sign LOU or aggrement during 1st week.SA told me to sign once they getting chasis no for my car.


TSazlan83
post Jun 4 2012, 06:20 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 4 2012, 06:13 PM)
hi bro

are you gonna update something on EB on your 1st post?

would be good to give overview to EB
*
i agree with you...i just new to this forum...maybe you can help me...


Added on June 4, 2012, 6:23 pm
QUOTE(Trong-FC @ Jun 4 2012, 06:18 PM)
cheras balakong dealer (they gonna open their 3S center next to columbia hospital balakong).
last 2 week SA has offered me to take the silver color..but i refuse to take it.cuz i want the elegance brown. tongue.gif
silver can get within 2 weeks. when i booked it last month the SA told me, he still pending to deliver 6 EB Elegance Brown color to customer
during 1st week 2 loan approved with 3.3% interest. but after 3 weeks booking, CIMB approved my loan with lowest interest 2.9%...luckily SA ask me to not sign LOU or aggrement during 1st week.SA told me to sign once they getting chasis no for my car.
*
i got 2.88% full loan from ambank...EB premium...just sign paper and take back the car...not much diffrent..about 100

on the color...silver also ok..look nice

This post has been edited by azlan83: Jun 4 2012, 06:25 PM
forgot_86
post Jun 4 2012, 08:23 PM

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Just noticed Proton has updated their website, can see Exora Prime already.

Btw, just wondering is it possible to change the second row seat to captain seat? Tried to look around but cannot find any. Only got upgrade to leather seat which Bold already hav
richsense
post Jun 4 2012, 09:05 PM

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I'm the new owner of exora bold. Only drives bold for 4 days. smile.gif
maverickng
post Jun 4 2012, 09:25 PM

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Exora bold use cfe engine is it?so far any problem?
neo1point3
post Jun 4 2012, 09:45 PM

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QUOTE(maverickng @ Jun 4 2012, 09:25 PM)
Exora bold use cfe engine is it?so far any problem?
*
Only the premium variant use CFE engine
Known problem is oil control valve and one more which I forget
Not all got problem by the way
TSazlan83
post Jun 5 2012, 12:49 AM

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QUOTE(richsense @ Jun 4 2012, 09:05 PM)
I'm the new owner of exora bold. Only drives bold for 4 days. smile.gif
*
congrat bro...drive carefully...not exceed 3.1k rpm...after 1 st servis then ok hehe.


Added on June 5, 2012, 12:53 am
QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Jun 4 2012, 09:45 PM)
Only the premium variant use CFE engine
Known problem is oil control valve and one more which I forget
Not all got problem by the way
*
some 1st batch got one way valve problem and some OCV..but already rectify by proton...my EB so far ok no problem...alhamdullilah...

This post has been edited by azlan83: Jun 5 2012, 12:53 AM
karlbum
post Jun 5 2012, 01:29 AM

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my eb is silver.. and during my time car only took 1 week to arrive i delay to second week to get DCA ... now we can fly tongue.gif
brotan
post Jun 5 2012, 08:05 AM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 5 2012, 12:49 AM)
congrat bro...drive carefully...not exceed 3.1k rpm...after 1 st servis then ok hehe.


Added on June 5, 2012, 12:53 am
some 1st batch got one way valve problem and some OCV..but already rectify by proton...my EB so far ok no problem...alhamdullilah...
*
bro,

really cannot exceed 3.1k rpm before 1st servis? and 1st servis is 5000km?

This post has been edited by brotan: Jun 5 2012, 09:14 AM
brotan
post Jun 5 2012, 09:32 AM

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one question on the gear. i keep hearing about the need to be careful (and do some special stuff) on certain situation. example, when stopping at uphill / downhill, when going downhill, etc

but i don't really understand it

can someone give a summary on the situation where we must be extra cautious and what we need to do?

tx
richsense
post Jun 5 2012, 09:53 AM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 5 2012, 12:49 AM)
congrat bro...drive carefully...not exceed 3.1k rpm...after 1 st servis then ok hehe.


Added on June 5, 2012, 12:53 am
Alamak. Yeka? Why aaa? I drive my bold very comfortable sometimes i forgot it has already reach 100KM/H.


Added on June 5, 2012, 9:55 amI was one time decided to buy grand livina 1.8 but suddenly changed my mind and opted for bold instead. So far after driving my bold for almost 5 days, I think I have made the right choice. smile.gif

This post has been edited by richsense: Jun 5 2012, 09:55 AM
neo1point3
post Jun 5 2012, 10:24 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 5 2012, 08:05 AM)
bro,

really cannot exceed 3.1k rpm before 1st servis? and 1st servis is 5000km?
*
Trust me...3.1k rpm already fast for EB
Keep the rpm at 2.4k is enough to accelerate and meter will stop climbing until 120 km/h smile.gif
I never exceed more than 3k except during overtaking.
brotan
post Jun 5 2012, 10:31 AM

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QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Jun 5 2012, 10:24 AM)
Trust me...3.1k rpm already fast for EB
Keep the rpm at 2.4k is enough to accelerate and meter will stop climbing until 120 km/h smile.gif
I never exceed more than 3k except during overtaking.
*
Thanks for the info

Hows the fc btw
neo1point3
post Jun 5 2012, 10:47 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 5 2012, 10:31 AM)
Thanks for the info

Hows the fc btw
*
Mine is full city driving 100% and my right foot is light, i get average 11.6 km/l

Edit: Should be 11.6L / 100km

This post has been edited by neo1point3: Jun 5 2012, 10:56 AM
brotan
post Jun 5 2012, 10:50 AM

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QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Jun 5 2012, 10:47 AM)
Mine is full city driving 100% and my right foot is light, i get average 11.6 km/l
*
wow, that is very good fc

my old nissan sentra (97) only gets 7.5 km/l . hehe

bigger car but better FC thumbup.gif
neo1point3
post Jun 5 2012, 10:54 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 5 2012, 10:50 AM)
wow, that is very good fc

my old nissan sentra (97) only gets 7.5 km/l . hehe

bigger car but better FC  thumbup.gif
*
Opss..sorry bro, my mistake wrong unit doh.gif
Should be 11.6l / 100km = 0.23 sen / km
TSazlan83
post Jun 5 2012, 10:55 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 5 2012, 08:05 AM)
bro,

really cannot exceed 3.1k rpm before 1st servis? and 1st servis is 5000km?
*
yes bro...stated in the manual...1st servis 1000km above...i go during 1300km haha..
brotan
post Jun 5 2012, 11:00 AM

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QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Jun 5 2012, 10:54 AM)
Opss..sorry bro, my mistake wrong unit  doh.gif
Should be 11.6l / 100km = 0.23 sen / km
*
ok, 8.6km/l

not so bad for a big car (though if can get 12 km/l will be awesome. haha)
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 5 2012, 11:34 AM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 4 2012, 06:20 PM)
i agree with you...i just new to this forum...maybe you can help me...


Added on June 4, 2012, 6:23 pm

i got 2.88% full loan from ambank...EB premium...just sign paper and take back the car...not much diffrent..about 100

on the color...silver also ok..look nice
*
At that rate, what is the loan amount and number of years?
brotan
post Jun 5 2012, 11:45 AM

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btw, i want to ask if you guys tint your car?

i see those groupon (and similar ones to them) has so called big discount on tinting

not sure if it is really worth it
TSazlan83
post Jun 5 2012, 12:00 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 5 2012, 11:00 AM)
ok, 8.6km/l

not so bad for a big car (though if can get 12 km/l will be awesome. haha)
*
mine fc...8.0 -9.0l/100km for long distance...for town use...10-11l/km...actually it can be more save if you light footed driving...haha...at trafic light you we leave anyone in the dust...thats why high...when rpm reach 2k it all enough to go...but if you press to 3k rpm..then fuel consumption high...


Added on June 5, 2012, 12:05 pm
QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 5 2012, 11:34 AM)
At that rate, what is the loan amount and number of years?
*
i got 87k loan...the actual loan 80k...by rule i need to pay 10% down payment...but the bank just deduct...as it mark up loan...it need good document...i do not have other komitment...except house....9 years...933 per month...3 day approve

This post has been edited by azlan83: Jun 5 2012, 12:05 PM
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 5 2012, 12:12 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 5 2012, 12:00 PM)

i got 87k loan...the actual loan 80k...by rule i need to pay 10% down payment...but the bank just deduct...as it mark up loan...it need good document...i do not have other komitment...except house....9 years...933 per month...3 day approve
*
RM87,000 for 9 yrs @ 2.88% means you will have to pay interest of RM22,550 over the 9 years. Or RM2,505 per year as interest. Wow.

TSazlan83
post Jun 5 2012, 12:37 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 5 2012, 12:12 PM)
RM87,000 for 9 yrs @ 2.88% means you will have to pay interest of RM22,550 over the 9 years. Or RM2,505 per year as interest. Wow.
*
actually 80000 for 9yrs @2.88% amislamic interest are rm 20764 over 9 years...no choice...if i pay 10% downpayment diffrent 100 a month
i just buy new house so...tight budget...go for full loan
richsense
post Jun 5 2012, 01:28 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 5 2012, 12:37 PM)
actually 80000 for 9yrs @2.88% amislamic  interest are rm 20764 over 9 years...no choice...if i pay 10% downpayment diffrent 100 a month
i just buy new house so...tight budget...go for full loan
*
Same here. Me also on tight budget. Haha. Lucky can markup from prime. If not then have to wait until got 10% dp.
brotan
post Jun 5 2012, 02:15 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 5 2012, 12:00 PM)
mine fc...8.0 -9.0l/100km for long distance...for town use...10-11l/km...actually it can be more save if you light footed driving...haha...at trafic light you we leave anyone in the dust...thats why high...when rpm reach 2k it all enough to go...but if you press to 3k rpm..then fuel consumption high...


Added on June 5, 2012, 12:05 pm
i got 87k loan...the actual loan 80k...by rule i need to pay 10% down payment...but the bank just deduct...as it mark up loan...it need good document...i do not have other komitment...except house....9 years...933 per month...3 day approve
*
bro,

you sure your fc correct? city better fc than long distance?
TSazlan83
post Jun 5 2012, 02:34 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 5 2012, 02:15 PM)
bro,

you sure your fc correct? city better fc than long distance?
*
long distance more save maaa...but city drive can try light foot...can save also
neo1point3
post Jun 5 2012, 09:27 PM

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After 2 month owning EB, everyday go through jam at LDP...tmr is the first time for my EB to do long distance
Bukit Jalil - Mersing smile.gif Hopefully i can get to learn the car better
biosfree
post Jun 5 2012, 09:47 PM

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my EB...lub it
akchang
post Jun 5 2012, 11:32 PM

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Did anyone here using any performance drop in air filter? biggrin.gif
V12Kompressor
post Jun 5 2012, 11:59 PM

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QUOTE(akchang @ Jun 5 2012, 11:32 PM)
Did anyone here using any performance drop in air filter? biggrin.gif
*
dont think there's any available for Campro CFE yet.
neo1point3
post Jun 6 2012, 12:59 AM

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QUOTE(akchang @ Jun 5 2012, 11:32 PM)
Did anyone here using any performance drop in air filter? biggrin.gif
*
I don't think it's a good idea to install aftermarket performance parts for the CFE
Your ecu will read 205nm and 138hp even after u upgrade, unless piggyback: D
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 6 2012, 05:32 AM

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QUOTE(akchang @ Jun 5 2012, 11:32 PM)
Did anyone here using any performance drop in air filter? biggrin.gif
*
Those things only look good and sounded good. As for performance, forget about it.

akchang
post Jun 6 2012, 06:54 AM

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ahh, so performance air filter do not do much with the std ones. ic

i thought it will help to improve the bold response nv expect them to add hp/torque.

rapidbumi
post Jun 6 2012, 09:35 AM

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mine silver eb.. since feb 2012... already reached 5k km.. gonna go for 2nd service soon...
ultramaman
post Jun 6 2012, 09:37 AM

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my eb was involved in a hit n run. while my wife was driving. the fella came and bang from the left hand side. rear left passenger door dented. the panel above the tyre dented. luckily nothing else happened . sigh. quite sad.
brotan
post Jun 6 2012, 09:48 AM

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QUOTE(ultramaman @ Jun 6 2012, 09:37 AM)
my eb was involved in a hit n run. while my wife was driving. the fella came and bang from the left hand side. rear left passenger door dented. the panel above the tyre dented. luckily nothing else happened . sigh. quite sad.
*
sorry to hear that bro

your wife didn't manage to get the plate no?
ultramaman
post Jun 6 2012, 10:19 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 6 2012, 09:48 AM)
sorry to hear that bro

your wife didn't manage to get the plate no?
*
nope, she was in shock. well. accidents are bound to happen, one way or the other... :|
cocodemon
post Jun 6 2012, 10:35 AM

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QUOTE(richsense @ Jun 5 2012, 09:53 AM)
I was one time decided to buy grand livina 1.8 but suddenly changed my mind and opted for bold instead. So far after driving my bold for almost 5 days, I think I have made the right choice. smile.gif
*
i oso like u, glad that i chose eb over other mpv's.. but the problem is, whenever u write these kind of things on the internet, people will say u are proton diehard fan / proton staff shakehead.gif

QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Jun 5 2012, 09:27 PM)
After 2 month owning EB, everyday go through jam at LDP...tmr is the first time for my EB to do long distance
Bukit Jalil - Mersing  smile.gif  Hopefully i can get to learn the car better
*
dun forget to try out the auto-cruise function. really helps during long driving rclxms.gif


Added on June 6, 2012, 10:38 am
QUOTE(ultramaman @ Jun 6 2012, 10:19 AM)
nope, she was in shock. well. accidents are bound to happen, one way or the other... :|
*
agree bro. last year my wife got hit from behind, and the best part is that idiot's car doesnt have insurance.. what to do?

This post has been edited by cocodemon: Jun 6 2012, 10:38 AM
brotan
post Jun 6 2012, 11:46 AM

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QUOTE(cocodemon @ Jun 6 2012, 10:35 AM)
i oso like u, glad that i chose eb over other mpv's.. but the problem is, whenever u write these kind of things on the internet, people will say u are proton diehard fan / proton staff  shakehead.gif
dun forget to try out the auto-cruise function. really helps during long driving  rclxms.gif


Added on June 6, 2012, 10:38 am

agree bro. last year my wife got hit from behind, and the best part is that idiot's car doesnt have insurance.. what to do?
*
hi bro

if that guy no insurance (and no road tax), at least if report police can get much more saman right?
adijb
post Jun 6 2012, 12:00 PM

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Hi everyone. Am a newbie here, though have been reading quite a lot of topics in LYN since a few months back, before deciding to join.

Planning to buy EB sometime next year, when my loan for my current mpv, an avanza 1.3 manual, is finish.
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 6 2012, 12:07 PM

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QUOTE(cocodemon @ Jun 6 2012, 10:35 AM)
i oso like u, glad that i chose eb over other mpv's.. but the problem is, whenever u write these kind of things on the internet, people will say u are proton diehard fan / proton staff  shakehead.gif
They will say you have "no class" driving a Proton.

TSazlan83
post Jun 6 2012, 12:23 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 6 2012, 12:07 PM)
They will say you have "no class" driving a Proton.
*
haha whatever they say...i love my EB.
adijb
post Jun 6 2012, 12:47 PM

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azlan83, as thread starter, maybe you can put a list of all EB owners in this thread in the front page. The owner list so far:
1. ultramaman | white | exora bold cfe
2. azlan83 | Elangance Brown | Exora CFE
3. Neo1point3 | Cocoa Grey | Bold CFE Premium
4. mat_tepets | elegent brown | Bold CFE Premium
5. richsense | ? | exora bold
6. karlbum | silver | exora bold
7. biosfree | ? | exora bold
8. rapidbumi | silver | exora bold | feb 2012
9. cocodemon | ? | exora bold


Added on June 6, 2012, 12:53 pmWhile the list of booked EB so far:
1. brotan | silver | Exora Bold CFE
2. Trong-FC | Elegance Brown | Exora Bold CFE

This post has been edited by adijb: Jun 6 2012, 12:53 PM
ultramaman
post Jun 6 2012, 12:56 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 6 2012, 12:07 PM)
They will say you have "no class" driving a Proton.
*
I wonder how much worst the accident would have been , if i had lost my mind and bought an alza instead of eb. .. and yet people keep on condemning protons. .



cocodemon
post Jun 6 2012, 01:22 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 6 2012, 11:46 AM)
hi bro

if that guy no insurance (and no road tax), at least if report police can get much more saman right?
*
yup, he got saman + other troubles. but on our side, we received nothing. we can sue him in court, but what for? we'll end up paying more $$ cry.gif

QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 6 2012, 12:07 PM)
They will say you have "no class" driving a Proton.
*
ya, i was thinking about 'class' too.
but then, class = paying more for less, no class = paying less for more,

so my choice is obvious. in the end, its up to the individuals.
V12Kompressor
post Jun 6 2012, 01:37 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 6 2012, 12:07 PM)
They will say you have "no class" driving a Proton.
*
If one really have "class", he wont spend his time in front of the monitor.

Ada nampak Tan Sri or Datuk Sri masuk LYN or other forums? No.


neo1point3
post Jun 6 2012, 01:38 PM

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I arrived at my destination already and took less 20 minutes than my previous ride

Fc drop from 11.6 l / 100km to 11 l / 100km...still high fc compare to my previous waja mitsu

Manage to test the auto cruise at lekas, cruising with another genetic silver cfe EB no. plate WWS at 140km/h...who's eb is this? tongue.gif
The auto cruise is aggressive tho, when climb hill the rpm straight shoot up...I wish it more to relax, no need to be that fast

at kuala pilah until muadzam shah a stream rsz cucuk from behind, let him go but he decide not to overtake...he shake hands with me at petronas after that

overtaking is so easy compare to my previous waja...from 50km/h I rev to 4000rpm and the meter climb so fast until reach 120km/h. More confident to overtake those overload lori balak. Engine sound is not pleasant after 3500rpm
Never try the L gear yet

Even though it is a 7 seater, 1 seat at the back need to fold down due to carry bags and stuffs.
The space so ngam ngam carry 6 of us smile.gif

The DVD player working great, can detect 16gb pen drive...but I wish it could support to play mkv format. The free GPS battery life is not much, use it for 3hours and battery low...need to connect charger

At 150km/h I notice the side mirrors shaking a little bit...normal because of the design I think? its squar-ish. Still don't have chance to engage ABS to see if its working.

Overall I satisfy with what I pay for smile.gif Love the space and comfort, power is a bonus biggrin.gif
TSazlan83
post Jun 6 2012, 04:06 PM

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QUOTE(adijb @ Jun 6 2012, 12:47 PM)
azlan83, as thread starter, maybe you can put a list of all EB owners in this thread in the front page. The owner list so far:
1. ultramaman | white | exora bold cfe
2. azlan83 | Elangance Brown | Exora CFE
3. Neo1point3 | Cocoa Grey | Bold CFE Premium
4. mat_tepets | elegent brown | Bold CFE Premium
5. richsense | ? | exora bold
6. karlbum | silver | exora bold
7. biosfree | ? | exora bold
8. rapidbumi | silver | exora bold | feb 2012
9. cocodemon | ? | exora bold


Added on June 6, 2012, 12:53 pmWhile the list of booked EB so far:
1. brotan | silver | Exora Bold CFE
2. Trong-FC | Elegance Brown | Exora Bold CFE
*
noted...i will add when come back from holiday next week...now on mobile mode...

last nite my journey from jb to tanah merah kelantan...Fc 8.2l/100km...max speed 150km/h normal 100 -120km/h...8hour driving. very comfort and steady...4 people with full luggage...full tank at jb...top up at kuantan rm52...now half tank - 3 bar with 300km to empty.

This post has been edited by azlan83: Jun 6 2012, 04:07 PM
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 7 2012, 12:16 PM

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Exora CFE specifies oil 10W30. It says nothing about 0W30 or 5W30. Does anyone know the exact technical reason for 10W30? Does CFE uses flat tappet camshafts or rolling cams?

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 7 2012, 01:27 PM
ultramaman
post Jun 7 2012, 01:15 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 7 2012, 12:16 PM)
Exora CFE specifies oil 10W30. It says nothing about 0W30 or 5W30. Does anyone know the exact technical reason for 10W30? Does CFE uses hydraulic-valve? If yes, is that the reason for only using 10w30?
*
i thought u can also use 10-40 ?
richsense
post Jun 7 2012, 01:21 PM

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QUOTE(adijb @ Jun 6 2012, 12:47 PM)
azlan83, as thread starter, maybe you can put a list of all EB owners in this thread in the front page. The owner list so far:
1. ultramaman | white | exora bold cfe
2. azlan83 | Elangance Brown | Exora CFE
3. Neo1point3 | Cocoa Grey | Bold CFE Premium
4. mat_tepets | elegent brown | Bold CFE Premium
5. richsense | ? | exora bold
6. karlbum | silver | exora bold
7. biosfree | ? | exora bold
8. rapidbumi | silver | exora bold | feb 2012
9. cocodemon | ? | exora bold
10. richsense | Cocoa Grey | Bold CFE Premium


Added on June 6, 2012, 12:53 pmWhile the list of booked EB so far:
1. brotan | silver | Exora Bold CFE
2. Trong-FC | Elegance Brown | Exora Bold CFE
*
Added mine. rclxms.gif
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 7 2012, 01:26 PM

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QUOTE(ultramaman @ Jun 7 2012, 01:15 PM)
i thought u can also use 10-40 ?
*
Engine manufacturer don't simply recommend things. If it SPECIFICALLY says 10W30, it would mean that grade is best. Whereas for 10W40, you can also use but then it wouldn't be "best'.

For me, I just wanted to know the reason 'why'.



ultramaman
post Jun 7 2012, 02:16 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 7 2012, 01:26 PM)
Engine manufacturer don't simply recommend things. If it SPECIFICALLY says 10W30, it would mean that grade is best. Whereas for 10W40, you can also use but then it wouldn't be "best'.

For me, I just wanted to know the reason 'why'.
*
i agree, which is why i insist on 10-30 regardless of what the mechanic says.
brotan
post Jun 7 2012, 02:19 PM

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is the car tinted when we receive it?
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 7 2012, 02:23 PM

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QUOTE(ultramaman @ Jun 7 2012, 02:16 PM)
i agree, which is why i insist on 10-30 regardless of what the mechanic says.
*
Yap. AFAIK, all 10W30 are Mineral Oil with most being API SL grade. Most Synthetic would be SM grade with lower ZDDP additives. I wondered whether that could be the reason. So until I know the reasons, I would also stick to Mineral 10W30 also, regardless of what SC said. For all I know, they couldn't be smarter than the engine manufacturer, could they?



ultramaman
post Jun 7 2012, 02:29 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 7 2012, 02:23 PM)
Yap. AFAIK, all 10W30 are Mineral Oil with most being API SL grade. Most Synthetic would be SM grade with lower ZDDP additives. I wondered whether that could be the reason. So until I know the reasons, I would also stick to Mineral 10W30 also, regardless of what SC said. For all I know, they couldn't be smarter than the engine manufacturer, could they?
*
i thought there are some 10-30 that are semi syn ?
vinorgouki
post Jun 7 2012, 02:49 PM

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ok. just come back from the Proton SC. well, this is my 2nd time service for my Exora Bold. and i had a very very bad experience with it.

I arrive SC at 11.15am. go to counter to enquiry. i told them i got bring my own engine oil. so the billing statement come out like this.

1 - X1R Engine Treatment - RM48.00
1 - X1R (P) Treatment - RM28.00
1 - Gasket Plug Oil Drain - RM3.32
1 - Oil Filter Campro Engine - RM12.22

i ask them do i really nd to buy engine treatment? they said every time service they will always suggest customer to buy. but i remember my 1st service dont hav pay for such thing. after comfirm, they ask me to be seat n wait. then i bring my son go watch astro then.

after long time waiting, my son's cartoon show already finish. i c the clock, its 12.00pm. i go check my car but still parking there, havent drive to the work bay yet. i go ask at counter how long i need to wait. then the servicer go ask mechanic. the mechanic quickly drive my car to service. (omg, isnt the mechanic jz reliaze my car have to service?)

another half an hour waiting. i go check my car. i saw them is pouring their engine oil. Its MACH 5 15W-40. i quickly tell them i got bring my own oil. they apologize to me, they said they didnt know, they jz work like normal. (omg again, they doing service without looking to the service order?? how terrible)

i continue ask them. normally, u guys should use semi oil, which is SYNTIUM 800 10W-40 for new car right? how come u use mineral oil for mine? they reply said, customer prefer this oil. (oh damn!) ok, since they already finish pour their oil. i think i will use it for another 3-4000km.

my car got a little problem, every time i hit a hole or drive at uneven road, they will always "eeegggrrrrrr" sound coming from back. i tell them to check my brake or abs. so they drive my car out. (i think they are going to hit the hole hardly this time, i suddenly feel regret to tell them the problem)

after 10 mins, they come back. they told me they got heard the sounds, it seems brake sound. so i ask them what to do? the machanic seems really donno wat to do. jz simply get the spanner, open my rear door. thighten some nut around there. then told me its done, jz go to pay at the counter. (WTF, dont u said its brake sound? what the hell u going to tighten the nut at back door??? wtfking sh*t)

after paid, leave there around 1pm. this 2nd service real sux. even the remind sticker they also forgot to give me.

actually the new car really need these staff? X1R Engine Treatment and X1R (P) Treatment (i assume P means petrol).
oh ya, they always jz add water to the coolant. when they will add the real coolant?

This post has been edited by vinorgouki: Jun 7 2012, 04:24 PM
V12Kompressor
post Jun 7 2012, 02:53 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 7 2012, 12:16 PM)
Exora CFE specifies oil 10W30. It says nothing about 0W30 or 5W30. Does anyone know the exact technical reason for 10W30? Does CFE uses flat tappet camshafts or rolling cams?
*
it doesn't specify must use SAE 10w30 oil. It specify minimum SAE 10w30 oil or engine oil with API rating of at least SL.
ultramaman
post Jun 7 2012, 02:57 PM

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QUOTE(vinorgouki @ Jun 7 2012, 02:49 PM)
ok. just come back from the Proton SC. well, this is my 2nd time service for my Exora Bold. and i had a very very bad experience with it.

I arrive SC at 11.15am. go to counter to enquiry. i told them i got bring my own engine oil. so the billing statement come out like this.

1 - X1R Engine Treatment - RM48.00
1 - X1R (P) Treatment - RM28.00
1 - Gasket Plug Oil Drain - RM3.32
1 - Oil Filter Campro Engine - RM12.22

i ask them do i really nd to buy engine treatment? they said every time service they will always suggest customer to buy. but i remember my 1st service dont hav pay for such thing. after comfirm, they ask me to be seat n wait. then i bring my son go watch astro then.

after long time waiting, my son's cartoon show already finish. i c the clock, its 12.00pm. i go check my car but still parking there, havent drive to the work bay yet. i go ask at counter how long i need to wait. then the servicer go ask mechanic. the mechanic quickly drive my car to service. (omg, isnt the mechanic jz reliaze my car have to service?)

another half an hour waiting. i go check my car. i saw them is pouring their engine oil. Its MACH 5 15W-40. i quickly tell them i got bring my own oil. they apologize to me, they said they didnt know, they jz work like normal. (omg again, they doing service without looking to the service order?? how terrible)

i continue ask them. normally, u guys should use semi oil, which is SYNTIUM 800 10W-40 for new car right? how come u use mineral oil for mine? they reply said, customer prefer this oil. (oh damn!) ok, since they already finish pour their oil. i think i will use it for another 3-4000km.

my car got a little problem, every time i hit a hole or drive at uneven road, they will always "eeegggrrrrrr" sound coming from back. i tell them to check my brake or abs. so they drive my car out. (i think they are going to hit the hole hardly this time, i suddenly feel regret to tell them the problem)

after 10 mins, they come back. they told me they got heard the sounds, it seems brake sound. so i ask them what to do? the machanic seems really donno wat to do. jz simply get the spanner, open my rear door. thighten some nut around there. then told me its done, jz go to pay at the counter. (WTF, dont u said its brake sound? what the hell u going to tighten the nut at back door??? wtfking sh*t)

after paid, leave there around 1pm. this 2nd service real sux.

actually wats is the X1R Engine Treatment and X1R (P) Treatment (i assume P means petrol) for? where they pour this staff to? the new car nd those thing?
*
which sc is this ?
anyhow, this is why i go to authorized centre. at least, i know the mechanics would do a better job. As a customer, u could have start a shitstorm and ask them to drain their oil out and use the oil that you brought or prefered.
another thing, the authorized SC that i send my car too only uses syntium 800 10-30 for the cfe engine. how come the sc u went poured mach5 10-40 ?
brotan
post Jun 7 2012, 03:50 PM

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hi guys

just a question. the car comes with tint already upon delivery? if yes, good enough?

tx
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 7 2012, 03:56 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 7 2012, 02:53 PM)
it doesn't specify must use SAE 10w30 oil. It specify minimum SAE 10w30 oil....
*
No such thing. No manufacturer will say that. They will say....at different ambient temperature, use different SAE etc

neo1point3
post Jun 7 2012, 07:30 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 7 2012, 03:50 PM)
hi guys

just a question. the car comes with tint already upon delivery? if yes, good enough?

tx
*
For premium and prime variant come with tint, 5 years warranty. Other variant I'm not sure.
The tint is very light, and not that good. I did 2nd layer at my EB
brotan
post Jun 7 2012, 08:45 PM

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QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Jun 7 2012, 07:30 PM)
For premium and prime variant come with tint, 5 years warranty. Other variant I'm not sure.
The tint is very light, and not that good. I did 2nd layer at my EB
*
can you really do a tint over a tint? i thought must remove the ori tint first?
neo1point3
post Jun 7 2012, 09:29 PM

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I am not sure, but the shop say can biggrin.gif

Windscreen i tint like 10% dark
Front glass 30%
2nd n 3rd row 70%
Rear glass 100%

Got stop by jpj yesterday, he ask why tint dark dark...I say got carry baby then he let me go rclxm9.gif
imin
post Jun 7 2012, 09:33 PM

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QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Jun 7 2012, 09:29 PM)
I am not sure, but the shop say can  biggrin.gif

Windscreen i tint like 10% dark
Front glass 30%
2nd n 3rd row 70%
Rear glass 100%

Got stop by jpj yesterday, he ask why tint dark dark...I say got carry baby then he let me go  rclxm9.gif
*
cool excuse but plausible indeed biggrin.gif. bcos my 2 year old son always complain panas when the sun shines directly at him.. so insyaAllah my next car gonna do a rear glass 100% to notworthy.gif
akchang
post Jun 7 2012, 11:36 PM

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i use 5w40 (syntium 3000) for engine oil seems to work better for me. wheather here is sooo hot and talk about oil degrading during car engine running at highest temp.


Turbocrazy
post Jun 8 2012, 12:03 AM

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Hi guys,

As promised, I'm back for some update on my wife's EB.. Today I went to Ipoh to get the EB which been in the Proton SC
for almost 2 weeks.. Had tested & everything are back to normal. Had attached the job description for the EB.. Looks like
they have changed quite a no. of parts!!




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
brotan
post Jun 8 2012, 08:50 AM

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QUOTE(Turbocrazy @ Jun 8 2012, 12:03 AM)
Hi guys,

As promised, I'm back for some update on my wife's EB.. Today I went to Ipoh to get the EB which been in the Proton SC
for almost 2 weeks.. Had tested & everything are back to normal. Had attached the job description for the EB.. Looks like
they have changed quite a no. of parts!!
*
hi bro

i see there is a "to do recall campagin - reverse camera lcd"

so this is like a full recall excercise on all EB in the field?

sendoh_7
post Jun 8 2012, 09:20 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 7 2012, 12:16 PM)
Exora CFE specifies oil 10W30. It says nothing about 0W30 or 5W30. Does anyone know the exact technical reason for 10W30? Does CFE uses flat tappet camshafts or rolling cams?
*
just ignore the first number..its for cold weather rating
Turbocrazy
post Jun 8 2012, 09:39 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 8 2012, 08:50 AM)
hi bro

i see there is a "to do recall campagin - reverse camera lcd"

so this is like a full recall excercise on all EB in the field?
*
Hi Bro Tan,

Well i was informed that this is indeed a recall exercise. Whether it is faulty or not, it will be replaced
during servicing. I reckon the camera view on the mirror is better, in sense of parallel lines to the parking lines wink.gif
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 8 2012, 10:30 AM

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QUOTE(sendoh_7 @ Jun 8 2012, 09:20 AM)
just ignore the first number..its for cold weather rating
*
I know. But what puzzles me is, Proton could have written it as 0W30, 5W30 and 10W30. But they did not, instead, they only wrote 10w30 (which is more likely to be Mineral rather than Semi or Synthetic). Furthermore, in the Lotus document, it was stated as "lower viscosity Mineral Oil" with no mention of Synthetic.

So my question is, why keep emphasizing or implying to use Mineral oil? This the part I am trying to work out.


sendoh_7
post Jun 8 2012, 11:01 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 8 2012, 10:30 AM)
I know. But what puzzles me is, Proton could have written it as 0W30, 5W30 and 10W30. But they did not, instead, they only wrote 10w30 (which is more likely to be Mineral rather than Semi or Synthetic). Furthermore, in the Lotus document, it was stated as "lower viscosity Mineral Oil" with no mention of Synthetic.

So my question is, why keep emphasizing or implying to use Mineral oil? This the part I am trying to work out.
*
i believe..this is minimum..means can use mineral
dont have to crack our head just because of this..just as long as XW30 should be ok..regardless mineral or full syn
cocodemon
post Jun 8 2012, 11:10 AM

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QUOTE(vinorgouki @ Jun 7 2012, 02:49 PM)
ok. just come back from the Proton SC. well, this is my 2nd time service for my Exora Bold. and i had a very very bad experience with it.

I arrive SC at 11.15am. go to counter to enquiry. i told them i got bring my own engine oil. so the billing statement come out like this.

1 - X1R Engine Treatment - RM48.00
1 - X1R (P) Treatment - RM28.00
1 - Gasket Plug Oil Drain - RM3.32
1 - Oil Filter Campro Engine - RM12.22

i ask them do i really nd to buy engine treatment? they said every time service they will always suggest customer to buy. but i remember my 1st service dont hav pay for such thing. after comfirm, they ask me to be seat n wait. then i bring my son go watch astro then.

after long time waiting, my son's cartoon show already finish. i c the clock, its 12.00pm. i go check my car but still parking there, havent drive to the work bay yet. i go ask at counter how long i need to wait. then the servicer go ask mechanic. the mechanic quickly drive my car to service. (omg, isnt the mechanic jz reliaze my car have to service?)

another half an hour waiting. i go check my car. i saw them is pouring their engine oil. Its MACH 5 15W-40. i quickly tell them i got bring my own oil. they apologize to me, they said they didnt know, they jz work like normal. (omg again, they doing service without looking to the service order?? how terrible)

i continue ask them. normally, u guys should use semi oil, which is SYNTIUM 800 10W-40 for new car right? how come u use mineral oil for mine? they reply said, customer prefer this oil. (oh damn!) ok, since they already finish pour their oil. i think i will use it for another 3-4000km.

my car got a little problem, every time i hit a hole or drive at uneven road, they will always "eeegggrrrrrr" sound coming from back. i tell them to check my brake or abs. so they drive my car out. (i think they are going to hit the hole hardly this time, i suddenly feel regret to tell them the problem)

after 10 mins, they come back. they told me they got heard the sounds, it seems brake sound. so i ask them what to do? the machanic seems really donno wat to do. jz simply get the spanner, open my rear door. thighten some nut around there. then told me its done, jz go to pay at the counter. (WTF, dont u said its brake sound? what the hell u going to tighten the nut at back door??? wtfking sh*t)

after paid, leave there around 1pm. this 2nd service real sux. even the remind sticker they also forgot to give me.

actually the new car really need these staff? X1R Engine Treatment and X1R (P) Treatment (i assume P means petrol).
oh ya, they always jz add water to the coolant. when they will add the real coolant?
*
hi bro,
thanx a lot for sharing this. will make sure they dun include unnecessary item during my 2nd service

btw, u bought ur car from dealer/eon/proton edar?

SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 8 2012, 11:36 AM

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QUOTE(vinorgouki @ Jun 7 2012, 02:49 PM)
ok. just come back from the Proton SC. well, this is my 2nd time service for my Exora Bold. and i had a very very bad experience with it.

I arrive SC at 11.15am. go to counter to enquiry. i told them i got bring my own engine oil. so the billing statement come out like this.

1 - X1R Engine Treatment - RM48.00
1 - X1R (P) Treatment - RM28.00
1 - Gasket Plug Oil Drain - RM3.32
1 - Oil Filter Campro Engine - RM12.22
Did some search and it seems X1R contains high level of Extreme Pressure/Anti Wear additives ZDDP. If I wanted more ZDDP, I would simply use an API-SL rated oil instead of SM rated oil rather than getting it from X1R. SL rated oil has higher level of ZDDP than SM oil. In fact, this may be one reason why Proton/Lotus asked you to use Mineral Oil because the Mach 5 10w50 is SL rated.

By using the high ZDDP in X1R, you run the risk of killing your catalytic convertor much faster. The high sulfur in X1R will also kill your gearbox copper/bronze parts much faster also.

If I were you, I will insist the mechanic take the X1R out of the engine.


http://pub27.bravenet.com/faq/show.php?use...5418&catid=1397
I have not heard much about x1r so i decieded to try a little experiment. i use oil analysis on my truck and know what my oil additives, wear metals, and other basic levels run on the average. in talking with race car drivers and engine builders, they all laid claim as to how good this stuff really works. well here is what i come to learn from this experience. i run schaeffers 15w40 in my truck, at about 200 miles before i was to change my oil, i put a bottle of x1r in as directed from them. now since schaeffers already has an excellent barrier lubricant in the oil, i never noticed any difference when i put the x1r in. after 200 miles of normal use, i drained and pulled the sample. when the lab results came back my concerns were a reality. with 6600 miles on my oil the results showed my ep/antiwear (zinc/ph) levels really high (zinc-1180/ph-1078 norm would be around 730-850). also the detergents (cal) was through the roof at over 3660ppms (norm 730-850ppm). now what that did is elevate my oxidation level that was norm at 19 to a 33. i also found sulfur levels that was never a problem (always at 0 out of 100%) now at 30%. my viscosity level was higher than normal, (15cst) where as it would be around 13.47-14. my thought on this is, i will personally never run x1r in anything i own again. i can see where in a race application, this is an excellent way to add some extra protection but, then the oil is changed after a few races and race engines are subject to rebuilds more often than personal car engines so the oxidation doesn't have time to do any damage to the soft metals. with higher levels of oxidation, your soft metals would begin to show possible damage by using this technology in a conventional engine. my personal observation of the x1r additive is it's an overload of ep's z/ph and a high level of cal detergent that causes a rise in visc due to higher levels of oxidation. this has been my thoughts that an overload of ep including mos2 would cause oxidation levels to rise causing the visc to increase as well. another thing i find interesting is the x1r is an additive that is used in gear boxes, rearends, manual transmissions, and powerstearing units. as most of you know, all those applications haven't got the blowby gases in them like an engine produces and in gearboxes and rearends as well as other things, they are usually using a higher level of ep.since this is touted to be a versital additive from engine to rearend, it is using nothing more than the same basic additives in oils by overloading them. this is nothing more than a personal experience/opion of what i feel about this product. this isn't to say it can't be good, but i believe that in the average vehicle situation, i'd tread lightly when it comes to this and most other ep additives. bob
Category: OIL ADDITIVES
cocodemon
post Jun 8 2012, 11:58 AM

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ya, i did some research long time ago, and came out to the conclusion that most additives are either useless or dangerous. just use good (& ori) oil + change oil on time. thats all.

except maybe for - lubegard
sendoh_7
post Jun 8 2012, 12:00 PM

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QUOTE(cocodemon @ Jun 8 2012, 11:58 AM)
ya, i did some research long time ago, and came out to the conclusion that most additives are either useless or dangerous. just use good (& ori) oil + change oil on time. thats all.

except maybe for - lubegard
*
agree..regular oil change is the best
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 8 2012, 12:15 PM

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QUOTE(cocodemon @ Jun 8 2012, 11:58 AM)
ya, i did some research long time ago, and came out to the conclusion that most additives are either useless or dangerous. just use good (& ori) oil + change oil on time. thats all.

except maybe for - lubegard
*
I don't use additives nor do I believe in using Synthetic oil because I don't drive a Ferrari nor living in Alaska. This "Synthetic last 10K but Mineral 5K" is the biggest load of rubbish around Malaysia but don't see that around in overseas forum.



vinorgouki
post Jun 8 2012, 12:30 PM

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QUOTE(ultramaman @ Jun 7 2012, 02:57 PM)
which sc is this ?
anyhow, this is why i go to authorized centre. at least, i know the mechanics would do a better job. As a customer, u could have start a shitstorm and ask them to drain their oil out and use the oil that you brought or prefered.
another thing, the authorized SC that i send my car too only uses syntium 800 10-30 for the cfe engine. how come the sc u went poured  mach5 10-40 ?
*
QUOTE(cocodemon @ Jun 8 2012, 11:10 AM)
hi bro,
thanx a lot for sharing this. will make sure they dun include unnecessary item during my 2nd service

btw, u bought ur car from dealer/eon/proton edar?
*
i bought mine at Eon. n i bring my car to eon sc too. coz proton edar sc wont allow to bring my own oil.
feeling very sad now, paying extra money for unnecessary item and maybe will harm my engine....

This post has been edited by vinorgouki: Jun 8 2012, 12:34 PM
sendoh_7
post Jun 8 2012, 12:33 PM

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QUOTE(vinorgouki @ Jun 8 2012, 12:30 PM)
i bought mine at Eon. n i bring my car to eon sc too. coz proton edar sc wont allow to bring own oil.
feeling very sad now, paying extra money for unnecessary item and maybe will harmful to my engine....
*
first and last bro..after this must insist no additive whatsoever

btw..just booked my exora..silver
maybank offer 2.83% 9 years
missed WWW sad.gif
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 8 2012, 12:39 PM

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QUOTE(vinorgouki @ Jun 8 2012, 12:30 PM)
i bought mine at Eon. n i bring my car to eon sc too. coz proton edar sc wont allow to bring my own oil.
feeling very sad now, paying extra money for unnecessary item and maybe will harm my engine....
*
Does the service record shows you using your own oil? If yes, I wouldn't want to do that because of warranty issue.



vinorgouki
post Jun 8 2012, 12:51 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 8 2012, 12:39 PM)
Does the service record shows you using your own oil? If yes, I wouldn't want to do that because of warranty issue.
*
the service booklet didnt record anything about using own oil.
the customer copy / receipt didnt show the item / price of engine oil.
the rest are same.
Turbocrazy
post Jun 8 2012, 02:13 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 8 2012, 12:15 PM)
I don't use additives nor do I believe in using Synthetic oil because I don't drive a Ferrari nor living in Alaska. This "Synthetic last 10K but Mineral 5K" is the biggest load of rubbish around Malaysia but don't see that around in overseas forum.
*
Agree with u.. I dun believe fully-syn engine oil be used for a new car as well.. But i do believed that fully-syn oil is more
superior than mineral engine oil..
As for me, I still stick to my dad's advice.. For normal use vehicle, clock approx 40k ~ 50k mileage per year, mineral
engine oil is used for (7~8 years). Follows by semi-syn oil (8~16 years). Then lastly fully-syn oil (17 years above old car).
I did asked him why, he said if u use fully-syn oil for a brand new car now, u will have no upgrading on later when the
engine gets old. Coz old engine needs more protection.. biggrin.gif

Cheers..




cocodemon
post Jun 8 2012, 02:41 PM

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1 question,
izit normal for the underneath of my eb to have body color? (refer to pix)
wasnt it suppose to be black? this is what they call anti-rust, izit? sorry for noob question rclxub.gif


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Trong-FC
post Jun 8 2012, 02:51 PM

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QUOTE(sendoh_7 @ Jun 8 2012, 12:33 PM)
first and last bro..after this must insist no additive whatsoever

btw..just booked my exora..silver
maybank offer 2.83% 9 years
missed WWW  sad.gif
*
no... you were not missed the WWW yet..
just quickly go to JPJ counter and buy it.
as 1235pm today WWW2078.but from what i heard WWWxxxx still available but no more nice number laa...



forter
post Jun 8 2012, 02:52 PM

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QUOTE(Turbocrazy @ Jun 8 2012, 02:13 PM)
Agree with u.. I dun believe fully-syn engine oil be used for a new car as well.. But i do believed that fully-syn oil is more
superior than mineral engine oil..
As for me, I still stick to my dad's advice.. For normal use vehicle, clock approx 40k ~ 50k mileage per year, mineral
engine oil is used for (7~8 years). Follows by semi-syn oil (8~16 years). Then lastly fully-syn oil (17 years above old car).
I did asked him why, he said if u use fully-syn oil for a brand new car now, u will have no upgrading on later when the
engine gets old. Coz old engine needs more protection..  biggrin.gif

Cheers..
*
bro....fully synthetic oil is only good for the new engine.....if your engine already old there is no point to use fully-syn oil...unless you used it from day 1.....you must protect your engine while your engine is still new...and after a few years it is ok to use only semi or mineral...
wezeer
post Jun 8 2012, 03:05 PM

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QUOTE(forter @ Jun 8 2012, 02:52 PM)
bro....fully synthetic oil is only good for the new engine.....if your engine already old there is no point to use fully-syn oil...unless you used it from day 1.....you must protect your engine while your engine is still new...and after a few years it is ok to use only semi or mineral...
*
fully-syn on old engine...today you fill...tomorrow @ day after dry already...
Turbocrazy
post Jun 8 2012, 03:09 PM

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QUOTE(forter @ Jun 8 2012, 02:52 PM)
bro....fully synthetic oil is only good for the new engine.....if your engine already old there is no point to use fully-syn oil...unless you used it from day 1.....you must protect your engine while your engine is still new...and after a few years it is ok to use only semi or mineral...
*
bro, have u actually try downgrading from fully-syn to mineral yet?? how does the engine runs?? Did u hear or feel any different??
Anyhow, when I upgrade from mineral to syn oil, its also depends how old is the engine, older ones - higher viscosity..
rapidbumi
post Jun 8 2012, 04:02 PM

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wonder if this enkei looks good on bold cfe...

This post has been edited by rapidbumi: Jun 8 2012, 04:03 PM


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taqu
post Jun 8 2012, 08:50 PM

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Stock Bold CFE rims good-looking enough to me :-)
neo1point3
post Jun 8 2012, 11:05 PM

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But if the rims is the shiny type then looks nicer I think
Turbocrazy
post Jun 9 2012, 07:55 AM

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QUOTE(taqu @ Jun 8 2012, 08:50 PM)
Stock Bold CFE rims good-looking enough to me :-)
*
But I'm having headache cleaning the stock rims, and it gets dirty very easy too!! sad.gif
Anyhow, I think its also depends on what color ur ride to match with the color of ur rims..
My ride is white, I match it with darker color rims, and 5 spoke rims are much easier to maintain.
I'm now using my camry 17" rims, the camry been upgraded to 18" biggrin.gif
I felt that the ride (exora bold) been much improved, in terms of handling & taut feel... biggrin.gif
Attached is a picture for ur pleasure... tongue.gif

V12Kompressor
post Jun 9 2012, 09:02 AM

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QUOTE(rapidbumi @ Jun 8 2012, 04:02 PM)
wonder if this enkei looks good on bold cfe...
*
IMO either take those VIP style one (like those manhole cover one) or those with more spokes (>12spokes) biggrin.gif
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 9 2012, 12:28 PM

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Can someone pls tell me more about this GPS that comes with the Bold? What brand? What model? Does it read Malfreemaps etc. thks
TSazlan83
post Jun 9 2012, 01:21 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 9 2012, 12:28 PM)
Can someone pls tell me more about this GPS that comes with the Bold? What brand? What model? Does it read Malfreemaps etc. thks
*
lokatoo a1000hd...not support malfreemaps...using wince 6.0 . there are some upgrade to papago x8.5 and garmin...but i still using stock software. ok laaa
brotan
post Jun 9 2012, 01:30 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 9 2012, 01:21 PM)
lokatoo a1000hd...not support malfreemaps...using wince 6.0 . there are some upgrade to papago x8.5 and garmin...but i still using stock software. ok laaa
*
is the gps built in to the car or it is those normal gps you can detach?
critters
post Jun 9 2012, 02:15 PM

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not build in... normal detechment one....

regarding the sport rim on eb... have you look at R3 rim for exora?

This post has been edited by critters: Jun 9 2012, 02:16 PM
Longy
post Jun 9 2012, 04:32 PM

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My EBP is 50 days old, so far the car runs wells except for few unresolved problems.

1.Top half of the driver seat rocking. Local proton SC says " the car come like that". They try to tighten nuts at the bottom of the seat. But problem still exists

2. " errrrrrrrgh " sound when hit pot holes. First service, SC loosened some screws and tightned at the undercarriage. But the problem still exists. Strangely this sound comes out only at few pot holes and not all pot holes and speedbreakers. rclxub.gif

I did not have much problem with choosing the oil for my 1st service. The SC had both 30 -10W, 40-10W. I went for 30-10W semi synthetic.

To those who are planning to buy EB, you need to have some tolerance for minor problems.
Good things about EBP is speed and space thumbup.gif
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 9 2012, 04:48 PM

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I decided to get the car manual and solve this once and for all on engine oil. Page 127. API SL rated oil or higher.

For Ambient temperature up to 40 deg C.
SAE 10W30

For Ambient temperature up to 50 deg C.
SAE 10W40, 10W50, 15W40, 15W50,20W40, 20W50


Do NOT use 5w40, 5W50, 5W30, 5W20.
These are for Ambient Temperature 20 deg and below ohmy.gif

10W30 would be the best choice for Malaysian climate. Since Malaysian Ambient temperature is ~30 deg C, there is still a huge safety margin because 10W30 can withstand up to 40 deg C.

xW40 or xW50 is too thick and will reduce performance and increase fuel consumption and we do not have Ambient temperature of 50 deg C.

As for service interval, for severe (city stop-start and long idling) it is every 5000-km. Otherwise it is 10,000-km.

1st service is 1000-km.

To keep it simple, just remember, do not use anything starting with 5Wxxx. It must be either 10Wxxx or 15Wxxx or 20Wxxx

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 9 2012, 05:34 PM
taqu
post Jun 9 2012, 07:15 PM

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Here's what I found from Petronas:

Syntium 800 SL 10W-30
Viscosity at 40 °C 74.1
Viscosity 100 °C 11.2

Syntium 800 SM 5W-30 (I'm currently using this)
Viscosity at 40 °C 62.3
Viscosity at 100 °C 11.1

Same viscosity at 100C, not much difference at 40C (start-up temperature). Fully synthetic engine oils don't have 10W-30, only 0W-30 due to much stronger film strength.

This article tells more :

http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/which-30-weight-oil.php
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 9 2012, 07:22 PM

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QUOTE(taqu @ Jun 9 2012, 07:15 PM)
Here's what I found from Petronas:

Syntium 800 SL 10W-30
Viscosity at 40 °C  74.1
Viscosity 100 °C  11.2

Syntium 800 SM 5W-30 (I'm currently using this)
Viscosity at 40 °C  62.3
Viscosity at 100 °C  11.1

Same viscosity at 100C, not much difference at 40C (start-up temperature). Fully synthetic engine oils don't have 10W-30, only 0W-30 due to much stronger film strength.

This article tells more :

http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/which-30-weight-oil.php
*
I too find it very strange and do not understand as to why Proton said 10Wx is OK but not 5Wx. Because AFAIK, the 10W and 5W are only relevant during cold engine start and the has nothing to do with final operating temperature.

And from my checking around, it seems Lotus is hinting to use only Mineral because you seldom see Synthetic with 10W30.

But the undeniable fact is, Proton/Lotus designed and built the engine so who are we to argue? IMO, we just have to accept what they said and stick to 10W30.




taqu
post Jun 9 2012, 07:34 PM

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Not all SCs have 10W-30 oils, hence why I use 5W-30 instead. On my 1000km service I even have to use 10W-40 bcoz that SC doesn't have 30-weight Petronas Syntiums.

As long as it doesn't void my warranty I'm fine with that. Perhaps I'll switch to Petronas Syntium 5000 0W-30 on my next service.
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 9 2012, 07:43 PM

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QUOTE(taqu @ Jun 9 2012, 07:34 PM)
Not all SCs have 10W-30 oils, hence why I use 5W-30 instead. On my 1000km service I even have to use 10W-40 bcoz that SC doesn't have 30-weight Petronas Syntiums.

As long as it doesn't void my warranty I'm fine with that. Perhaps I'll switch to Petronas Syntium 5000 0W-30 on my next service.
*
I would not want to do that. If Lotus/Proton says 5Wx is not OK, then 0Wx would be even worst.

CFE manual clearly says NOT to use 5Wx and yet they gave it to you. So I think they are either idiots or illiterate rclxub.gif





taqu
post Jun 9 2012, 11:29 PM

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IMO either 5W-30 or 10W-30 should be fine for our weather. Petronas Syntium 10W-30 flows at 74.1CST at 40 degrees while Petronas Syntium 5W-30 flows at 62.3CST at 40 degrees. More than thick enough for our weather. Plus 5W or 0W flows faster at startup than 10W, even in 25-35 degrees here, meaning better protection due to less time to reach engine on startup.

Viscosity at 80-100C is more important, here both oils are same. Otherwise Petronas/Mobil/Castrol won't dare selling 0W-30 synthetic oils locally.

That's why I wonder why Proton discourages lower than 10W. Perhaps it's due to 10W-30 oils being cheaper than 5W-30/0W-30 oils. Or does Proton only means lower than 30 weight is not recommended? NVM I'll stick to SC's 5W-30 until next service.


Added on June 9, 2012, 11:32 pm
QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 9 2012, 01:21 PM)
lokatoo a1000hd...not support malfreemaps...using wince 6.0 . there are some upgrade to papago x8.5 and garmin...but i still using stock software. ok laaa
*
I use Papago X8.5 and Garmin in my Lokatoo. Much better than stock app.


Added on June 9, 2012, 11:43 pmBumping my previous home dyno. Guys, be proud our our EB CFE's performance smile.gif

user posted image

This post has been edited by taqu: Jun 9 2012, 11:43 PM
rapidbumi
post Jun 10 2012, 08:33 AM

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QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Jun 8 2012, 11:05 PM)
But if the rims is the shiny type then looks nicer I think
*
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shiny like this crz rims??
neo1point3
post Jun 10 2012, 08:40 AM

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QUOTE(rapidbumi @ Jun 10 2012, 08:33 AM)
Attached Image

shiny like this crz rims??
*
Yeah, the rims look more stand out compare to stock smile.gif at least for cocoa grey, maybe light colour car prefer darker rims

Yesterday I was 170km/h at LPT a Vios and a innova cucuk, my EB cannot increase speed anymore have to let them go...but my eb fully loaded la, 5adult 1 kid and luggage. At 150 so much noise already but still stable, I suspect the tyre is noisy. Good thing 160kmh rpm at 3900 rpm smile.gif

This post has been edited by neo1point3: Jun 10 2012, 08:46 AM
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 10 2012, 09:48 AM

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QUOTE(taqu @ Jun 9 2012, 11:29 PM)
IMO either 5W-30 or 10W-30 should be fine for our weather. Petronas Syntium 10W-30 flows at 74.1CST at 40 degrees while Petronas Syntium 5W-30 flows at 62.3CST at 40 degrees. More than thick enough for our weather. Plus 5W or 0W flows faster at startup than 10W, even in 25-35 degrees here, meaning better protection due to less time to reach engine on startup.

Viscosity at 80-100C is more important,  here both oils are same. Otherwise Petronas/Mobil/Castrol won't dare selling 0W-30 synthetic oils locally.

That's why I wonder why Proton discourages lower than 10W. Perhaps it's due to 10W-30 oils being cheaper than 5W-30/0W-30 oils. Or does Proton only means lower than 30 weight is not recommended? NVM I'll stick to SC's 5W-30 until next service.
I agree with you and that was also my understanding of engine oil. And that is also why I am so curious as to what could be the reason for Proton/Lotus for insisting on 10Wxx oil.

My guess:
1. Level of Extreme Pressure ZDDP level in motor oil. AFAIK, most of those Mineral 10W30 are API SL rated containing higher level of ZDDP than Synthetic with API-SM rating.

2. Soot handling capability. Mineral are better than Synthetic but normally, this is more of a problem for diesel engine and not gasoline engine like the CFE.

What's your view?


forgot_86
post Jun 10 2012, 12:12 PM

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QUOTE(rapidbumi @ Jun 10 2012, 08:33 AM)
Attached Image

shiny like this crz rims??
*
I really dont like this shape. The tyre look so small and the body so big. Not balance. Those body must use bigger rims then only will look normal or better.
chulaisn
post Jun 10 2012, 04:31 PM

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QUOTE(forgot_86 @ Jun 10 2012, 12:12 PM)
I really dont like this shape. The tyre look so small and the body so big. Not balance. Those body must use bigger rims then only will look normal or better.
*
Those lancer 18' looks fantastic on exora. Seen a few on the road. However, pickup and overall handling maybe will not be as ideal if compared to ori 16'. If on 15' even better but the looks compromised.
taqu
post Jun 10 2012, 05:13 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 10 2012, 09:48 AM)
I agree with you and that was also my understanding of engine oil. And that is also why I am so curious as to what could be the reason for Proton/Lotus for insisting on 10Wxx oil.

My guess:
1. Level of Extreme Pressure ZDDP level in motor oil. AFAIK, most of those Mineral 10W30 are API SL rated containing higher level of ZDDP than Synthetic with API-SM rating.

2. Soot handling capability. Mineral are better than Synthetic but normally, this is more of a problem for diesel engine and not gasoline engine like the CFE.

What's your view?
*
I guess it's bcoz 10W-30 oils are cheaper and easier to get around the world smile.gif
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 10 2012, 05:30 PM

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QUOTE(taqu @ Jun 10 2012, 05:13 PM)
I guess it's bcoz 10W-30 oils are cheaper and easier to get around the world smile.gif
*
No car manufacturer will specifically say you can't use more expensive 5w30. Yet Proton did just that. So I don't think cost is the reason but rather some unknown to us technical reason. So until we know the reason, I will not want to take risk with 5W30

In fact, it is so incredible for Proton to specifically say you can't use 5W30 that I am wondering whether it could be a printing mistake.....

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 10 2012, 05:39 PM
wezeer
post Jun 10 2012, 06:58 PM

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Maybe because of turbocharge...experienced with turbocharge car b4 (evo3) & recommended 10w instead of 0w...in my experience it really best when with 10w...
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 11 2012, 09:42 AM

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QUOTE(wezeer @ Jun 10 2012, 06:58 PM)
Maybe because of turbocharge...experienced with turbocharge car b4 (evo3) & recommended 10w instead of 0w...in my experience it really best when with 10w...
*
May I ask the reason why?

wezeer
post Jun 11 2012, 10:02 AM

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If too thin,(0W/30,5W/30), oil will boil inside your turbo
bearing. This will block further oil deliveries
to the turbo bearing (compressor & turbine).
& TC engine produce heat more than N/A. Afraid it will dried up the oil.

At the moment just follow as what in the manual. Those engineers (powertrain dept) already done some test with Borg Warner engineers & come up with the solution. Maybe they can disclose @ we can google our selves what the best & why 10w work best for TC engines.

This post has been edited by wezeer: Jun 11 2012, 11:25 AM
ultramaman
post Jun 11 2012, 10:04 AM

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QUOTE(vinorgouki @ Jun 8 2012, 12:51 PM)
the service booklet didnt record anything about using own oil.
the customer copy / receipt didnt show the item / price of engine oil.
the rest are same.
*
the service booklet x. but i remmeber last time when i brought my own oil. they jot it down as 'owner own oil' in the system
rapidbumi
post Jun 11 2012, 10:17 AM

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just to share from RAYS Japan web... also reminder to me as well... how much ori price in Malaysia?Attached Image
ultramaman
post Jun 11 2012, 10:19 AM

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QUOTE(rapidbumi @ Jun 11 2012, 10:17 AM)
just to share from RAYS Japan web... also reminder to me as well... how much ori price in Malaysia?Attached Image
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nuts for rims ? apa beza fake and ori ? both also made from same material ?
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 11 2012, 10:24 AM

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QUOTE(wezeer @ Jun 11 2012, 10:02 AM)
If too thin,(0W/30,5W/30), oil will boil inside your turbo
bearing. This will block further oil deliveries
to the turbo bearing (compressor & turbine).
& TC engine produce heat more than N/A. Afraid it will dried up  the oil.

At the moment just follow as what in the manual. Those engineers (powertrain dept) already done some test with Borg Wagner engineers & come up with the solution. Maybe they can disclose @ we can google our selves what the best & why 10w work  best for TC engines.
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Don't makes sense.

1. We WANTED oil to go between the bearing and thinner 0W oil can do that better. Only by getting between the bearing can we provide lubrication and protection to the bearing. Thicker 10W oil is less able to get between the thick bearing gap so in theory, 0W is better than 10W.

2. Synthetic oil can withstand higher temperature than Mineral so less chance of charring.






wezeer
post Jun 11 2012, 10:43 AM

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maybe those engineers do make sense...

hehehe i'm nor expert but shared from my previous experience...
while using 0-5w...noticed the EO level dried up faster than using 10w...maybe it's an old engine and turbine while produced 270whp...but then it do make sense when relate back to why they recommended 10w instead of thinner...
taqu
post Jun 11 2012, 11:02 AM

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I guess when the engine gets old, thinner engine oils will leak through worn seals & rings. Hence the 10W-30 as "play-safe" recommendation for the next 10 years of ownership. Who knows if Proton also purposely downstate the max torque (220Nm) that our CVT can take to discourage extreme modding.

Just my opinion. I can be wrong though.
ultramaman
post Jun 11 2012, 11:08 AM

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proton didnt purposely downstate the max torque that the cvt can handle. that number came from punch powertrain. u can check their website.. for the spec details of of the cvt gb
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 11 2012, 11:27 AM

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QUOTE(taqu @ Jun 9 2012, 07:34 PM)
Not all SCs have 10W-30 oils, hence why I use 5W-30 instead. On my 1000km service I even have to use 10W-40 bcoz that SC doesn't have 30-weight Petronas Syntiums.

As long as it doesn't void my warranty I'm fine with that. Perhaps I'll switch to Petronas Syntium 5000 0W-30 on my next service.
*
I decided to have a look at the turbo diesel engine oil chart and strange enough, it says you can use 10W30 but you CAN NOT use 5W30 in our climate. This is contrary to both our understanding of engine oil.

Even though CFE is not diesel engine, you might still want to reconsider using 0W30. And since Proton had specifically said you can't use 0W30, you will void your warranty if you insist on 0W30. My 2 sen.

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 11 2012, 11:30 AM


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wezeer
post Jun 11 2012, 11:33 AM

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to add to your analysis, might consider reading this
http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/technical/u...gers/oil-facts/
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 11 2012, 11:39 AM

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QUOTE(wezeer @ Jun 11 2012, 11:33 AM)
to add to your analysis, might consider reading this
http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/technical/u...gers/oil-facts/
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I just did and this sentence is saying, if 10w30 can be used, 05W30 can also. But this is not what Proton and some turbo diesel manufacturer are saying. Hence my confusion.

"Once an engine has reached its working temperature (if over 70°C) the SAE "W" rating has no effect on the engine."
brotan
post Jun 11 2012, 11:41 AM

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hi guys,

just curious. any reason why you guys want to use 0w30 or 5w30? what's the expected benefit?
wezeer
post Jun 11 2012, 11:49 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 11 2012, 11:39 AM)
I just did and this sentence is saying, if 10w30 can be used, 05W30 can also. But this is not what Proton and some turbo diesel manufacturer are saying. Hence my confusion.

"Once an engine has reached its working temperature (if over 70°C) the SAE "W" rating has no effect on the engine."
*
i tend to more 'better wear protection' word on why they come out with 10w...
i got this from agpturbo site;

"If you have a standard bearing turbocharger: The loads produced on your standard bearing turbocharger’s rotating assembly require oils with high levels of ZDDP to adequately create a film between like metals. Standard bearing turbine shafts spin between bushings (bearings) and must have a constant film of oil in order for the components to survive. This is where choosing the right oil can make the difference. We have found that Brad Penn Grade 1 is one of the best and most cost effective oil out there. Other oils that we’ve found that contain the proper levels of ZDDP are Valvoline VR1 and VR1 Synthetic NSL, and Amsoil SAE Synthetic Premium Protection. We have also used Rotellla T6 synthetic oil with much success over the years.

Additionally, we advise using thicker viscosity in these brands of oil as the heat generated by high shaft speeds will break down thin 0W, 5W, and 10W oils and cause the oil to coke inside the turbo where oil temperatures can exceed 200 degrees F. Your standard bearing turbo will enjoy that you make the right choice. These are merely suggestions by us, because we have seen failures due to improper oil over the years. These types of oils may not contain the many of the detergents that most off the shelf oils have, thus you will need to change your oil more regularly than you’re used to. If you feel that the oils you run are sufficient, we would recommend having an oil analysis completed by Blackstone Labs."

This post has been edited by wezeer: Jun 11 2012, 11:49 AM
cocodemon
post Jun 11 2012, 12:22 PM

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here are some pix update of my eb.

pix1: so far no sign of friction mark on my door handle

pix2: due to its size & paint quality, i found it really difficult to prevent minor scratches like this from happen on the eb. luckily had the door moulding installed

pix3: my 1st service. thank god they got the oil rite. total cost: rm123. sc: proton edar bachang.


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SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 11 2012, 12:23 PM

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QUOTE(wezeer @ Jun 11 2012, 11:49 AM)
i tend to more 'better wear protection' word on why they come out with 10w...
i got this from agpturbo site;

"If you have a standard bearing turbocharger: The loads produced on your standard bearing turbocharger’s rotating assembly require oils with high levels of ZDDP to adequately create a film between like metals. Standard bearing turbine shafts spin between bushings (bearings) and must have a constant film of oil in order for the components to survive. This is where choosing the right oil can make the difference. We have found that Brad Penn Grade 1 is one of the best and most cost effective oil out there. Other oils that we’ve found that contain the proper levels of ZDDP are Valvoline VR1 and VR1 Synthetic NSL, and Amsoil SAE Synthetic Premium Protection. We have also used Rotellla T6 synthetic oil with much success over the years.


Additionally, we advise using thicker viscosity in these brands of oil as the heat generated by high shaft speeds will break down thin 0W, 5W, and 10W oils and cause the oil to coke inside the turbo where oil temperatures can exceed 200 degrees F. Your standard bearing turbo will enjoy that you make the right choice. These are merely suggestions by us, because we have seen failures due to improper oil over the years. These types of oils may not contain the many of the detergents that most off the shelf oils have, thus you will need to change your oil more regularly than you’re used to. If you feel that the oils you run are sufficient, we would recommend having an oil analysis completed by Blackstone Labs."
*
In my earlier post, I have my suspicion level of ZDDP may be a reason why Proton suggested API-SL (higher ZDDP) rating commonly found in 10W30. Whereas 5W30 commonly have API-SM rating (lower ZDDP). This statement seems to confirm my suspicion.

But I fail to agree with the lower statement because 0W oil are almost exclusively Fully Synthetic and these are SUPPOSED to be more resistant to breaking down than Mineral (10W)

taqu
post Jun 11 2012, 02:10 PM

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Anyone writing email to Proton on this matter? If they say 5W-30 & 0W-30 are NO NO, I can opt for Petronas Syntium 0W-40, whose viscosity sits between 10W-30 and 10W-40.

I thought modern turbo engines no longer require ZDDP level as much as older turbo engines do. And I don't think those thin synthetic engine oils easily break down for turbo applications.
brotan
post Jun 11 2012, 02:12 PM

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hi guys,

just to update my SA got my the chassis no already (after 1 week upon booking)

said will get car end of this week as planned biggrin.gif
wezeer
post Jun 11 2012, 02:27 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 11 2012, 12:23 PM)
In my earlier post, I have my suspicion level of ZDDP may be a reason why Proton suggested API-SL (higher ZDDP) rating commonly found in 10W30. Whereas 5W30 commonly have API-SM rating (lower ZDDP). This statement seems to confirm my suspicion.

But I fail to agree with the lower statement because 0W oil are almost exclusively Fully Synthetic and these are SUPPOSED to be more resistant to breaking down than Mineral (10W)
*
i do agree with u. but SUPPOSED is what in the theory..but theoretically they know better.

yes they are some turbo application recommended on 0w (such as gtr) but then different manufacturer different requirement...we might knew the basic theory on turbo application but in reality its beyond unless we involved in the development & testing phase...

btw 0w-30,5w-30,0w-40,5w-40 sit in same range...

no harm to trying on your machine...kindly please share with us on the end result... interested to know too...
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 11 2012, 02:47 PM

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QUOTE(taqu @ Jun 11 2012, 02:10 PM)
Anyone writing email to Proton on this matter? If they say 5W-30 & 0W-30 are NO NO, I can opt for Petronas Syntium 0W-40, whose viscosity sits between 10W-30 and 10W-40.

I thought modern turbo engines no longer require ZDDP level as much as older turbo engines do. And I don't think those thin synthetic engine oils easily break down for turbo applications.
*
I would advise against 0W40. My reasoning are:

1. Assuming oil break down is an issue, then 0W40 viscosity range is even wider than 0W30 so will run even higher risk of oil breaking down than 0W30

2. I believe Proton is saying, don't use any 0W or 5W oil. Period. Your 0W40 would be one of them.

My 2 sen.




TSazlan83
post Jun 11 2012, 03:17 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 11 2012, 02:12 PM)
hi guys,

just to update my SA got my the chassis no already (after 1 week upon booking)

said will get car end of this week as planned  biggrin.gif
*
ask icare about the chasis no...if confirm reseave for you then your car is nearby to get
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 11 2012, 03:53 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 11 2012, 03:17 PM)
ask icare about the chasis no...if confirm reseave for you then your car is nearby to get
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If you wanted a Bold fast, call up those small town Proton dealer who may have ready stock.


sendoh_7
post Jun 11 2012, 04:05 PM

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i got my chassis no already..placed booking last thursday..
quite fast..but stumbled on d/p cos my current car cannot get the target price..haizz
brotan
post Jun 11 2012, 04:12 PM

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QUOTE(sendoh_7 @ Jun 11 2012, 04:05 PM)
i got my chassis no already..placed booking last thursday..
quite fast..but stumbled on d/p cos my current car cannot get the target price..haizz
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whats ur car color?
sendoh_7
post Jun 11 2012, 04:17 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 11 2012, 04:12 PM)
whats ur car color?
*
silver..
first time i heard silver got no queue tongue.gif
brotan
post Jun 11 2012, 04:26 PM

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QUOTE(sendoh_7 @ Jun 11 2012, 04:17 PM)
silver..
first time i heard silver got no queue  tongue.gif
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mine also silver. 2 weeks delivery
adijb
post Jun 11 2012, 05:18 PM

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Updated list for TS. Hope this is of use.

QUOTE
The owner list so far:
1. ultramaman | white | exora bold cfe
2. azlan83 | Elangance Brown | Exora CFE
3. Neo1point3 | Cocoa Grey | Bold CFE Premium
4. mat_tepets | elegent brown | Bold CFE Premium
5. richsense | ? | exora bold
6. karlbum | silver | exora bold
7. biosfree | ? | exora bold
8. rapidbumi | silver | exora bold | feb 2012
9. cocodemon | ? | exora bold
10. richsense | Cocoa Grey | Bold CFE Premium
11. vinorgouki | ? | Exora Bold
12. Turbocrazy | ? | Exora Bold
13. Longy | ? | Exora Bold Premium
QUOTE
While the list of booked EB so far:
1. brotan | silver | Exora Bold CFE
2. Trong-FC | Elegance Brown | Exora Bold CFE
3. sendoh_7 | silver | ?
sendoh_7
post Jun 11 2012, 05:25 PM

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QUOTE
While the list of booked EB so far:
1. brotan | silver | Exora Bold CFE
2. Trong-FC | Elegance Brown | Exora Bold CFE
3. sendoh_7 | silver | Exora Bold Premium

2die4
post Jun 11 2012, 05:30 PM

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QUOTE
The owner list so far:
1. ultramaman | white | exora bold cfe
2. azlan83 | Elangance Brown | Exora CFE
3. Neo1point3 | Cocoa Grey | Bold CFE Premium
4. mat_tepets | elegent brown | Bold CFE Premium
5. richsense | ? | exora bold
6. karlbum | silver | exora bold
7. biosfree | ? | exora bold
8. rapidbumi | silver | exora bold | feb 2012
9. cocodemon | ? | exora bold
10. richsense | Cocoa Grey | Bold CFE Premium
11. vinorgouki | ? | Exora Bold
12. Turbocrazy | ? | Exora Bold
13. Longy | ? | Exora Bold Premium
14. 2die4|Elegance Brown|EB Premium

QUOTE
While the list of booked EB so far:
1. brotan | silver | Exora Bold CFE
2. Trong-FC | Elegance Brown | Exora Bold CFE
3. sendoh_7 | silver | Exora Bold Premium


Add new owner list
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 11 2012, 05:33 PM

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CFE/CVT combination too noisy for town driving. Much worst than normal AT. Only shine on highway high speed driving.

sendoh_7
post Jun 11 2012, 05:36 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 11 2012, 05:33 PM)
CFE/CVT combination too noisy for town driving. Much worst than normal AT. Only shine on highway high speed driving.
*
im more concern on the FC sweat.gif
V12Kompressor
post Jun 11 2012, 05:45 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 11 2012, 05:33 PM)
CFE/CVT combination too noisy for town driving. Much worst than normal AT. Only shine on highway high speed driving.
*
how issit noisy? hmm.gif

unless you keep the turbo spinning during city drive then of coz noisy lo... hmm.gif
neo1point3
post Jun 11 2012, 10:26 PM

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Yeap the cvt is noisy when accelerate and stop at traffic jam...but not a big problem
I'm more concern about the oil control valve, malu when ppl ask why can choke like that when idle
Turbocrazy
post Jun 11 2012, 10:57 PM

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QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Jun 11 2012, 10:26 PM)
Yeap the cvt is noisy when accelerate and stop at traffic jam...but not a big problem
I'm more concern about the oil control valve, malu when ppl ask why can choke like that when idle
*
Agree with u, we r more concerned abt other failure than the sound it makes.. (although the fan noise
is louder than my diesel engine!!)
When my EB had this problem, stop at the roadside, really felt malu... sad.gif
Wifey told me she dun have confident in P1 liao.. If happen again she wants to change car liao.. shocking.gif
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 11 2012, 11:06 PM

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QUOTE(taqu @ Jun 9 2012, 07:15 PM)
Here's what I found from Petronas:

Syntium 800 SL 10W-30
Viscosity at 40 °C  74.1
Viscosity 100 °C  11.2
Mineral Mach-5 10W30
Viscosity at 40 °C 73
Viscosity 100 °C 11.2

Why pay more for the Syntium?
http://www.mymesra.com.my/?ch=mm_2011&pg=p...pl=2011_article

doctor.AGF
post Jun 11 2012, 11:07 PM

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Hi everyone,
Anybody experiencing their EB pulling to the left side and having to slightly tilt the steering 10 degrees to the right in order to maintain straight driving?
please let me know

Thanks
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 11 2012, 11:10 PM

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QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Jun 11 2012, 10:26 PM)
Yeap the cvt is noisy when accelerate and stop at traffic jam...but not a big problem
I'm more concern about the oil control valve, malu when ppl ask why can choke like that when idle
*
When coming to red traffic light, the sound is like a toy mechanical/electric car slowing down. Very obvious.

brotan
post Jun 11 2012, 11:33 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 11 2012, 11:10 PM)
When coming to red traffic light, the sound is like a toy mechanical/electric car slowing down. Very obvious.
*
is this a design issue or it is supposed to be like this?
doctor.AGF
post Jun 11 2012, 11:39 PM

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Hi everyone,
Anybody experiencing their EB pulling to the left side and having to slightly tilt the steering 10 degrees to the right in order to maintain straight driving?
please let me know

Thanks
cocodemon
post Jun 12 2012, 08:38 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 11 2012, 11:33 PM)
is this a design issue or it is supposed to be like this?
*
i dun seems to have this problem tho. maybe my driving style, or izit my level of tolerance is significantly higher biggrin.gif

QUOTE(doctor.AGF @ Jun 11 2012, 11:39 PM)
Hi everyone,
Anybody experiencing their EB pulling to the left side and having to slightly tilt the steering 10 degrees to the right in order to maintain straight driving?
please let me know

Thanks
*
fr what i read in the previous thread rclxms.gif
1. most modern cars r like that, the alignment is not 100% straight
2. newer proton models are known to have problems with the steering rubber boot. u can ask sc to replace, but the problem will come back. i did a quick google search -> link

nevertheless, u can bring ur eb to a tire shop to have it's alignment checked.
adijb
post Jun 12 2012, 09:00 AM

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QUOTE(cocodemon @ Jun 12 2012, 08:38 AM)
i dun seems to have this problem tho. maybe my driving style, or izit my level of tolerance is significantly higher  biggrin.gif
fr what i read in the previous thread  rclxms.gif
1. most modern cars r like that, the alignment is not 100% straight
Like that one, huh? My 2006 Avanza has this alignment problem since day 1. SC said cannot fix, it is like that. I thought is was BS.
sendoh_7
post Jun 12 2012, 09:36 AM

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QUOTE(adijb @ Jun 12 2012, 09:00 AM)
Like that one, huh? My 2006 Avanza has this alignment problem since day 1. SC said cannot fix, it is like that. I thought is was BS.
*
and peugeot 308 tongue.gif
Turbocrazy
post Jun 12 2012, 10:04 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 11 2012, 11:10 PM)
When coming to red traffic light, the sound is like a toy mechanical/electric car slowing down. Very obvious.
*
More like mechanical sound to me, coz this is the same sound from my manual 4x4 only when going downhill
(25% slope) engaged on 1st gear without stepping on the pedal. But, it won't be as loud as the EB.. Most likely
from the clutch.. I wonder if exora cps hv this noise..
doctor.AGF
post Jun 12 2012, 10:46 AM

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Thanks all,
so Avanza, 308 and EB have alignment problem
God help us all


SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 12 2012, 10:58 AM

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QUOTE(doctor.AGF @ Jun 11 2012, 11:39 PM)
Hi everyone,
Anybody experiencing their EB pulling to the left side and having to slightly tilt the steering 10 degrees to the right in order to maintain straight driving?
please let me know

Thanks
*
Same. But on level straight road, let your hands go and the car go straight.


azzet
post Jun 12 2012, 11:52 AM

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booked my EB Elegance Brown 2 months ago and still waiting... got WWW76XX at rm210 last friday...lalala


Added on June 12, 2012, 12:00 pmI would recommend maybank... mine got 2.8% for 9 years.. some more got full loan plus rm500 discount from SA, free gift etc... last month my SA offer just arrived cocoa grey but I still insist my elegance brown although much longer queue.. hehe


This post has been edited by azzet: Jun 12 2012, 12:00 PM
sendoh_7
post Jun 12 2012, 12:06 PM

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QUOTE(azzet @ Jun 12 2012, 11:52 AM)
booked my EB Elegance Brown 2 months ago and still waiting... got WWW76XX at rm210 last friday...lalala


Added on June 12, 2012, 12:00 pmI would recommend maybank... mine got 2.8% for 9 years.. some more got full loan plus rm500 discount from SA, free gift etc... last month my SA offer just arrived cocoa grey but I still insist my elegance brown although much longer queue.. hehe
*
hmm..
seems you have a better deal..
2.8 interest..500 discount..i thought EB premium no discount at all since demand is good
TSazlan83
post Jun 12 2012, 12:35 PM

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QUOTE(Turbocrazy @ Jun 12 2012, 10:04 AM)
More like mechanical sound to me, coz this is the same sound from my manual 4x4 only when going downhill
(25% slope) engaged on 1st gear without stepping on the pedal. But, it won't be as loud as the EB.. Most likely
from the clutch.. I wonder if exora cps hv this noise..
*
this sound come from cvt..as cvt will adjust the gear with the speed...or maybe the engine braking is automatically turn on...i suggest to ask krisof on proton cvt thread at autoworld forum...for me its ok i get use to it.
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 12 2012, 01:35 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 12 2012, 12:35 PM)
this sound come from cvt..as cvt will adjust the gear with the speed...or maybe the engine braking is automatically turn on...i suggest to ask krisof on proton cvt thread at autoworld forum...for me its ok i get use to it.
*
Or just turn up the radio volume.
TSazlan83
post Jun 12 2012, 02:15 PM

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Last week go back to hometown kelantan...alhamdullilah no problem at all
from going to hometown and return back to JB...my car full load with all shopping goods from Thailand and Kelantan...the fuel consumption during going back its ok...as i maintain speed...but on return the fuel consumption high as full load and i speed at LPT Phase 2...at 170km/h i notice the fuel get real calculation go to 18l/100km haha...when reach gambang...distance to empty below 200km with 2 bar...

i also notice the car getting lighter and smooth when odometer over 3000km...cheers
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 12 2012, 02:25 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 12 2012, 02:15 PM)
Last week go back to hometown kelantan...alhamdullilah no problem at all
from going to hometown and return back to JB...my car full load with all shopping goods from Thailand and Kelantan...the fuel consumption during going back its ok...as i maintain speed...but on return the fuel consumption high as full load and i speed at LPT Phase 2...at 170km/h i notice the fuel get real calculation go to 18l/100km haha...when reach gambang...distance to empty below 200km with 2 bar...

i also notice the car getting lighter and smooth when odometer over 3000km...cheers
*
May I ask, from JB to Kelantan:
1. How many kilometer the entire journey?
2. How long does it takes?
3. How's the road condition?
4. Any interesting things to do/see/eat etc?

TSazlan83
post Jun 12 2012, 02:51 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 12 2012, 02:25 PM)
May I ask, from JB to Kelantan:
1. How many kilometer the entire journey?
2. How long does it takes?
3. How's the road condition?
4. Any interesting things to do/see/eat etc?
*
from jb to kelantan...700km until tanah merah...

i took 10hour with stop...actually u can make 8 hour

road condition ok...but the problem road from (kuantan)jabor to bukit besi(lpt phase2)

sorry i using the fastest road...so no interesting thing
along the way. but if like sight seeing...use this road

jb-mersing-pekan-kuantan-kemaman-dungun-kuala terengganu-besut-pasir putih-kota bharu

a lot of thing...keropok at marang...beaches at kuantan...pasir putih...at kelantan can shopping at pengkalan kubur...rantau panjang...sg golok...can eat ikan bakar at kuantan...or you can go to kapas island...

This post has been edited by azlan83: Jun 12 2012, 02:53 PM
Turbocrazy
post Jun 12 2012, 02:54 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 12 2012, 12:35 PM)
this sound come from cvt..as cvt will adjust the gear with the speed...or maybe the engine braking is automatically turn on...i suggest to ask krisof on proton cvt thread at autoworld forum...for me its ok i get use to it.
*
I do agree with u to certain point, i.e; engine braking automatically turn on when we slow down the vehicle..
If u say its cvt noise, I wonder why other cvt like nissan sulphy and teanna dun hv this noise? hmm.gif


V12Kompressor
post Jun 12 2012, 03:23 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 12 2012, 12:35 PM)
this sound come from cvt..as cvt will adjust the gear with the speed...or maybe the engine braking is automatically turn on...i suggest to ask krisof on proton cvt thread at autoworld forum...for me its ok i get use to it.
*
no gear how to adjust? tongue.gif

The sound it makes is due to the pulleys tighten back at a fast rate. Thats why the "whurrrrrr" sound is much more apparent (louder) when you stop from 80kmh to 0 than stopping from 50kmh to 0.

The engine braking (downhill recognition) in the VT3 is engaged automatically the moment the TCU detects a slope. The only way to cancel the downhill recognition is to put your foot on the throttle but that will consume a lot of fuel in that process therefore it is recommended to just leave the CVT to do its job and users have to get use to its characteristic. While going downhill, although rpm shoots up to 2,500 rpm, the amount of fuel injected into the engine is equivalent to the amount injected during idling [foot of throttle], so it will not contibute to high FC. During this process, the engine is actually running on lean mode (air ratio more than fuel ratio) and therefore it will be a bit hotter than usual.


Added on June 12, 2012, 3:30 pm
QUOTE(Turbocrazy @ Jun 12 2012, 02:54 PM)
I do agree with u to certain point, i.e; engine braking automatically turn on when we slow down the vehicle..
If u say its cvt noise, I wonder why other cvt like nissan sulphy and teanna dun hv this noise? hmm.gif
*
The Xtronic CVT are much more refined CVT than the Punch VT2/VT3/VT4 CVT. Not to mention the Xtronic actually has even lesser moving parts than the VT series CVT. It might have the noise but since it is a much refine unit, it could be even quieter or completely being muffled by Nissan.

This post has been edited by V12Kompressor: Jun 12 2012, 03:30 PM
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 12 2012, 03:34 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 12 2012, 02:51 PM)
from jb to kelantan...700km until tanah merah...

i took 10hour with stop...actually u can make 8 hour

road condition ok...but the problem road from (kuantan)jabor to bukit besi(lpt phase2)

sorry i using the fastest road...so no interesting thing
along the way. but if like sight seeing...use this road

jb-mersing-pekan-kuantan-kemaman-dungun-kuala terengganu-besut-pasir putih-kota bharu

a lot of thing...keropok at marang...beaches at kuantan...pasir putih...at kelantan can shopping at pengkalan kubur...rantau panjang...sg golok...can eat ikan bakar at kuantan...or you can go to kapas island...
*
Many thanks.

For driving holiday, which would you recommend.
Drive from JB - Kuantan - Kuala Trengganu - Kota Baru
KL - Penang - Kota Baru - Kuantan - KL.

brotan
post Jun 12 2012, 03:35 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 12 2012, 03:23 PM)
no gear how to adjust? tongue.gif

The sound it makes is due to the pulleys tighten back at a fast rate. Thats why the "whurrrrrr" sound is much more apparent (louder) when you stop from 80kmh to 0 than stopping from 50kmh to 0. 

The engine braking (downhill recognition) in the VT3 is engaged automatically the moment the TCU detects a slope. The only way to cancel the downhill recognition is to put your foot on the throttle but that will consume a lot of fuel in that process therefore it is recommended to just leave the CVT to do its job and users have to get use to its characteristic. While going downhill, although rpm shoots up to 2,500 rpm, the amount of fuel injected into the engine is equivalent to the amount injected during idling [foot of throttle], so it will not contibute to high FC. During this process, the engine is actually running on lean mode (air ratio more than fuel ratio) and therefore it will be a bit hotter than usual.


Added on June 12, 2012, 3:30 pm

The Xtronic CVT are much more refined CVT than the Punch VT2/VT3/VT4 CVT. Not to mention the Xtronic actually has even lesser moving parts than the VT series CVT. It might have the noise but since it is a much refine unit, it could be even quieter or completely being muffled by Nissan.
*
bro

you mean going down hill, we should not press any gas at all? what about those highway going downhill?
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 12 2012, 03:37 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 12 2012, 03:23 PM)
The Xtronic CVT are much more refined CVT than the Punch VT2/VT3/VT4 CVT. Not to mention the Xtronic actually has even lesser moving parts than the VT series CVT. It might have the noise but since it is a much refine unit, it could be even quieter or completely being muffled by Nissan.
*
So does that means Xtronic CVT would be more reliable than VT3? Does the Xtronic uses wet clutch and hence increased fuel consumption?

V12Kompressor
post Jun 12 2012, 04:09 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 12 2012, 03:35 PM)
bro

you mean going down hill, we should not press any gas at all? what about those highway going downhill?
*
yes, just let it roll down unless you want to speed up, then you can add your desired throttle level.

QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 12 2012, 03:37 PM)
So does that  means Xtronic CVT would be more reliable than VT3? Does the Xtronic uses wet clutch and hence increased fuel consumption?
*
yes, the Xtronic CVT is more reliable since it has lesser moving parts. It doesn't use any clutch, it uses torque converter. Slightly higher power loss compared to clutch base CVT, but more durable. smile.gif
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 12 2012, 04:11 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 12 2012, 04:09 PM)
yes, the Xtronic CVT is more reliable since it has lesser moving parts. It doesn't use any clutch, it uses torque converter. Slightly higher power loss compared to clutch base CVT, but more durable. smile.gif
*
How's Toyota and Honda's CVT in comparison with Punch's.

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 12 2012, 04:11 PM)
How's Toyota and Honda's CVT in comparison with Punch's.
*
For Honda, I'm not very knowledgeable about their CVT. Heard their new CVT is very good but its only available in Japan and US Honda Accord, for now. The older Honda City one is also clutch based like the Punch VT2/VT3 and some said it behaves more or less like the VT2/VT3.

Smoothness
Nissan > Toyota > Punch

Durability
Nissan > Toyota > Punch

Efficiency (power loss)
Punch > Nissan > Toyota

Price
Punch > Nissan > Toyota


All these are subjective and not a final opinion so it is subjected to other opinions, etc.
brotan
post Jun 12 2012, 04:19 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 12 2012, 04:17 PM)
For Honda, I'm not very knowledgeable about their CVT. Heard their new CVT is very good but its only available in Japan and US Honda Accord, for now. The older Honda City one is also clutch based like the Punch VT2/VT3 and some said it behaves more or less like the VT2/VT3.

Smoothness
Nissan > Toyota > Punch

Durability
Nissan > Toyota > Punch

Efficiency (power loss)
Punch > Nissan > Toyota

Price
Punch > Nissan > Toyota
All these are subjective and not a final opinion so it is subjected to other opinions, etc.
*
wah, like that after drive a few years the CVT will kong and have to change .... rclxub.gif
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post Jun 12 2012, 04:23 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 12 2012, 04:19 PM)
wah, like that after drive a few years the CVT will kong and have to change ....  rclxub.gif
*
the Punch CVT actually has a lifespan of 200,000km on paper. And don't worry, every parts inside is replaceable and the CVT itself is serviceable. In fact, Punch has the intention to set up a hub in Malaysia to solve/troubleshoot/fix the CVT sold by Proton. So if your belt snaps, you don't need to change whole CVT. Just replace the belt. biggrin.gif

Oh, and just to add, the CVT has been reported to be tested to up to 250,000km by Proton engineers during the Preve development period. smile.gif
brotan
post Jun 12 2012, 04:31 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 12 2012, 04:23 PM)
the Punch CVT actually has a lifespan of 200,000km on paper. And don't worry, every parts inside is replaceable and the CVT itself is serviceable. In fact, Punch has the intention to set up a hub in Malaysia to solve/troubleshoot/fix the CVT sold by Proton. So if your belt snaps, you don't need to change whole CVT. Just replace the belt. biggrin.gif

Oh, and just to add, the CVT has been reported to be tested to up to 250,000km by Proton engineers during the Preve development period.  smile.gif
*
tx for the insight. glad to know don't have to change the whole thing but still i believe will be expensive
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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 12 2012, 04:31 PM)
tx for the insight. glad to know don't have to change the whole thing but still i believe will be expensive
*
once there's enough people buying them at a large scale, then everything will be priced lower, so no worries. smile.gif

So far, the Saga, Exora Bold and Preve uses the CVT. The Saga and the Preve will be the volume seller and hopefully, this will bring down the price of the CVT and CVT components. smile.gif
adijb
post Jun 12 2012, 05:04 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 12 2012, 03:34 PM)
Many thanks.

For driving holiday, which would you recommend.
Drive from JB - Kuantan - Kuala Trengganu - Kota Baru
KL - Penang - Kota Baru - Kuantan - KL.
*
Maybe stop by at Gambang Water Theme Park for 1 day? Sorry off topic smile.gif

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post Jun 12 2012, 09:10 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 12 2012, 04:37 PM)
once there's enough people buying them at a large scale, then everything will be priced lower, so no worries. smile.gif

So far, the Saga, Exora Bold and Preve uses the CVT. The Saga and the Preve will be the volume seller and hopefully, this will bring down the price of the CVT and CVT components. smile.gif
*
Tq for enlightening, its a good news for EB owners. Since we know now that the characteristic of VT, can improve
lower the noise by installing sound proving at the firewall??

I'm sure proton is able to achieved their target since the new cfe engines were introduced, coz more power & better styling is what most buyers are waiting for in our Exora..
Btw, is preve using the same cvt as bold?? Coz, I had test drive preve, I felt the acceleration is not as powerful
as the EB..

SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 12 2012, 10:09 PM

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Damn. Think I got knocking sound somewhere near the front airbag dashboard when going over rough ground.

V12Kompressor
post Jun 12 2012, 11:24 PM

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QUOTE(Turbocrazy @ Jun 12 2012, 09:10 PM)
Tq for enlightening, its a good news for EB owners. Since we know now that the characteristic of VT, can improve
lower the noise by installing sound proving at the firewall??

I'm sure proton is able to achieved their target since the new cfe engines were introduced, coz more power & better styling is what most buyers are waiting for in our Exora..
Btw, is preve using the same cvt as bold?? Coz, I had test drive preve, I felt the acceleration is not as powerful
as the EB..
*
yes, soundproofing definitely helps.

Preve Premium (CFE) is using the same VT3 with Exora Bold Premium (CFE). The difference in acceleration is due to the throttle response in the Preve which was tuned slightly retarded. The bold throttle level is well balanced between responsive and retard.
brotan
post Jun 12 2012, 11:47 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 12 2012, 11:24 PM)
yes, soundproofing definitely helps.

Preve Premium (CFE) is using the same VT3 with Exora Bold Premium (CFE). The difference in acceleration is due to the throttle response in the Preve which was tuned slightly retarded. The bold throttle level is well balanced between responsive and retard.
*
Hi bro, how much to sound proof? is it expensive?
V12Kompressor
post Jun 13 2012, 12:11 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 12 2012, 11:47 PM)
Hi bro, how much to sound proof? is it expensive?
*
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2262458/+60

you can even check out my review there...

I DIY myself on my car...
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 13 2012, 12:28 AM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 12 2012, 04:23 PM)
the Punch CVT actually has a lifespan of 200,000km on paper. And don't worry, every parts inside is replaceable and the CVT itself is serviceable. In fact, Punch has the intention to set up a hub in Malaysia to solve/troubleshoot/fix the CVT sold by Proton. So if your belt snaps, you don't need to change whole CVT. Just replace the belt. biggrin.gif

Oh, and just to add, the CVT has been reported to be tested to up to 250,000km by Proton engineers during the Preve development period.  smile.gif
*
Punch uses wet clutch. Does this wet clutch wears out similar to the clutch in manual transmission?

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post Jun 13 2012, 12:39 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 13 2012, 12:28 AM)
Punch uses wet clutch. Does this wet clutch wears out similar to the clutch in manual transmission?
*
yes. due to constant engagement and disengagement, it will cause wear and tear like normal clutch also. Only the durability is longer than normal clutch since it is lubricated (wet).

OMG, why suddenly I became Kristof sleep.gif
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 13 2012, 12:42 AM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 13 2012, 12:39 AM)
yes. due to constant engagement and disengagement, it will cause wear and tear like normal clutch also. Only the durability is longer than normal clutch since it is lubricated (wet).

OMG, why suddenly I became Kristof sleep.gif
*
If that is the case, then it would not be advisable to keep it in "D" for too long because wet clutch is partly engaged. And apply more throttle when going uphill instead of creeping. Correct?

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post Jun 13 2012, 12:46 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 13 2012, 12:42 AM)
If that is the case, then it would not be advisable to keep it in "D" for too long because wet clutch is partly engaged. And apply more throttle when going uphill instead of creeping. Correct?
*
Yup for both. When idling, push it to N, especially during stopping on an uphill. If you notice closely, on N, the rpm will be higher than on D. According to kristof, this is due to the engine is running some sort of pump which aids cooling of the CVT. In fact, on uphill, if you dint apply any throttle at all, the car will jerk, lurched a bit and then vibrates a little as if macam mau mati engine. I always play that with my Saga... XD

This post has been edited by V12Kompressor: Jun 13 2012, 12:47 AM
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 13 2012, 12:50 AM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 13 2012, 12:46 AM)
Yup for both. When idling, push it to N, especially during stopping on an uphill. If you notice closely, on N, the rpm will be higher than on D. According to kristof, this is due to the engine is running some sort of pump which aids cooling of the CVT. In fact, on uphill, if you dint apply any throttle at all, the car will jerk, lurched a bit and then vibrates a little as if macam mau mati engine. I always play that with my Saga... XD
*
Yes, I have noticed that and put into N because of that at traffic light. Logic tells me that, if something is causing the rpm to go down, then there must be stress somewhere and stress can't be good.

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 13 2012, 12:52 AM
zaidi
post Jun 13 2012, 02:43 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 13 2012, 12:50 AM)
Yes, I have noticed that and put into N because of that at traffic light. Logic tells me that, if something is causing the rpm to go down, then there must be stress somewhere and stress can't be good.
*
it's bad practise to put engine to D and apply brake at traffic light. just put it to N & brake.

btw add me to waiting list. cocoa-grey. been in waiting list since april, but no rush smile.gif
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post Jun 13 2012, 06:40 AM

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QUOTE(zaidi @ Jun 13 2012, 02:43 AM)
it's bad practise to put engine to D and apply brake at traffic light. just put it to N & brake.

btw add me to waiting list. cocoa-grey. been in waiting list since april, but no rush smile.gif
*
From a 'wear & tear' point of view, I see no reason to do that. In normal AT. Putting it in "D" cause no increased wear because there are no clutch. Instead, constant shifting between D and N as you suggest will increase wear & tear as proven by the jerk when you do so every time.

But of course, from a safety point of view, I suppose you are right.


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post Jun 13 2012, 07:39 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 13 2012, 06:40 AM)
From a 'wear & tear' point of view, I see no reason to do that. In normal AT. Putting it in "D" cause no increased wear because there are no clutch. Instead, constant shifting between D and N as you suggest will increase wear & tear as proven by the jerk when you do so every time.

But of course, from a safety point of view, I suppose you are right.
*
in normal at, but in our eb ?
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 13 2012, 10:18 AM

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QUOTE(ultramaman @ Jun 13 2012, 07:39 AM)
in normal at, but in our eb ?
*
AFAIK, the best thing to remember is, just treat your EB more like a Manual Transmission. For example:
1. At idling, we do not want to put into gear and partially lift up the clutch. That is bad because it cause excessive clutch wear. With EB, just don't put it in D for too long at idle.

2. Going uphill. Likewise, we do not want to 'ride' a manual transmission for more power going uphill, instead increase throttle for more power instead. With EB, don't creep (this is akin to riding the MT) and instead, increase throttle.

Correct me if I am wrong.




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post Jun 13 2012, 10:18 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 12 2012, 03:34 PM)
Many thanks.

For driving holiday, which would you recommend.
Drive from JB - Kuantan - Kuala Trengganu - Kota Baru
KL - Penang - Kota Baru - Kuantan - KL.
*
i prefer pantai timur road...no toll...a lot of scenary along side the road...you can eat ana ikan bakar at kuantan...taste keropok lekor at marang...can stay at cherating...marang...mersing...pasir putih...there are lot stall along the route


Added on June 13, 2012, 10:21 am
QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 13 2012, 10:18 AM)
AFAIK, the best thing to remember is, just treat your EB more like a Manual Transmission. For example:
1. At idling, we do not want to put into gear and partially lift up the clutch. That is bad because it cause excessive clutch wear. With EB, just don't put it in D for too long at idle.

2. Going uphill. Likewise, we do not want to 'ride' a manual transmission for more power going uphill, instead increase throttle for more power instead. With EB, don't creep (this is akin to riding the MT) and instead, increase throttle.

Correct me if I am wrong.
*
yes...treat you gearbox like manual...even auto it the same as manual...

This post has been edited by azlan83: Jun 13 2012, 10:21 AM
brotan
post Jun 13 2012, 10:37 AM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 13 2012, 12:11 AM)
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2262458/+60

you can even check out my review there...

I DIY myself on my car...
*
tx for the info
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post Jun 13 2012, 11:23 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 13 2012, 10:37 AM)
tx for the info
*
brotan, please share some picts after you are done insulating your eb tongue.gif
brotan
post Jun 13 2012, 11:32 AM

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QUOTE(sendoh_7 @ Jun 13 2012, 11:23 AM)
brotan, please share some picts after you are done insulating your eb  tongue.gif
*
if looks good, will share. if looks bad, sorry lah. hehe

btw, just booked 2 pcs from TS of this sound insulation. Wish me good luck thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by brotan: Jun 13 2012, 01:45 PM
brotan
post Jun 13 2012, 01:53 PM

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wth, the chassis that i got was wrongly booked. it is already booked by other showroom for other customer vmad.gif vmad.gif
sendoh_7
post Jun 13 2012, 01:55 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 13 2012, 01:53 PM)
wth, the chassis that i got was wrongly booked. it is already booked by other showroom for other customer  vmad.gif  vmad.gif
*
too bad..but i think silver queue wont be that long..
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 13 2012, 02:35 PM

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QUOTE(sendoh_7 @ Jun 13 2012, 01:55 PM)
too bad..but i think silver queue wont be that long..
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What color has the longest queue?

doctor.AGF
post Jun 13 2012, 02:49 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 13 2012, 02:35 PM)
What color has the longest queue?
*
first it was elegant brown, now people are crazy about white rclxm9.gif
sendoh_7
post Jun 13 2012, 03:40 PM

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QUOTE(doctor.AGF @ Jun 13 2012, 02:49 PM)
first it was elegant brown, now people are crazy about white  rclxm9.gif
*
i think its still elegan brown..at least 1.5mths..red and silver can get within 2 weeks tongue.gif
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QUOTE(sendoh_7 @ Jun 13 2012, 03:40 PM)
i think its still elegan brown..at least 1.5mths..red and silver can get within 2 weeks  tongue.gif
*
they should change the name to gold lah. doesn't look brown at all
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post Jun 13 2012, 03:52 PM

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QUOTE(doctor.AGF @ Jun 13 2012, 02:49 PM)
first it was elegant brown, now people are crazy about white  rclxm9.gif
*
White difficult to maintain. With brown, less easy to see the dirt. So brown best for lazy people.

sendoh_7
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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 13 2012, 03:52 PM)
White difficult to maintain. With brown, less easy to see the dirt. So brown best for lazy people.
*
100% agree..

but the prettiest for me is still solid white with dark gray rims..but wont go thru hell maintaining it
brotan
post Jun 13 2012, 03:57 PM

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QUOTE(sendoh_7 @ Jun 13 2012, 03:55 PM)
100% agree..

but the prettiest for me is still solid white with dark gray rims..but wont go thru hell maintaining it
*
i wonder if repaint whole car how much? if already sien with the stock color, might want to change to dark gray

very classy
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post Jun 13 2012, 10:59 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 13 2012, 11:32 AM)
if looks good, will share. if looks bad, sorry lah. hehe

btw, just booked 2 pcs from TS of this sound insulation. Wish me good luck  thumbup.gif
*
Guys, I'm not sure abt the type of insulation material that u guys used. My cousin had his ride heavily done sound
proving on his estima (cost him approx 5k). He is happy with the result, extremely quiet cabin.. But eventually, he
remove some of them coz its effecting his FC due to heavy burden to the vehicle..
His advice to me is, do only minor ones like firewall, doors & roof.. (stage by stage..)


MrEmas
post Jun 13 2012, 11:28 PM

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hi all

i'm owner of solid white Exora Bold, i want to ask about eb tyre. one of my eb tyre has punctured very bad (langgar bucu divider), had been replaced with spare tyre. Luckily, the spare tyre is same size with other tyres (and rims too).

so, what brand of tyre that suitable to replace my badly punctured tyre (to be used as spare tyre)? i think 16 size tyre price is around RM200 - 300++

tq

:-)

oh before that, my EB is 1 month old with 3000++ km
brotan
post Jun 13 2012, 11:34 PM

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QUOTE(MrEmas @ Jun 13 2012, 11:28 PM)
hi all

i'm owner of solid white Exora Bold, i want to ask about eb tyre. one of my eb tyre has punctured very bad (langgar bucu divider), had been replaced with spare tyre. Luckily, the spare tyre is same size with other tyres (and rims too).

so, what brand of tyre that suitable to replace my badly punctured tyre (to be used as spare tyre)? i think 16 size tyre price is around RM200 - 300++

tq

:-)

oh before that, my EB is 1 month old with 3000++ km
*
my place in ss3 has a good tyre shop. their 2nd tyre quite cheap and good
MrEmas
post Jun 13 2012, 11:35 PM

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deleted - double post


Added on June 13, 2012, 11:45 pm
QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 13 2012, 11:34 PM)
my place in ss3 has a good tyre shop. their 2nd tyre quite cheap and good
*
2nd tyre pun ok kan?... my relative also suggested to buy 2nd tyre. cheaper. but how about tyre brand? which is suitable for exora bold?

This post has been edited by MrEmas: Jun 13 2012, 11:45 PM
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 14 2012, 06:52 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 13 2012, 11:34 PM)
my place in ss3 has a good tyre shop. their 2nd tyre quite cheap and good
*
What do you mean by 2nd tire?

zaidi
post Jun 14 2012, 08:01 AM

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QUOTE(MrEmas @ Jun 13 2012, 11:28 PM)
hi all

i'm owner of solid white Exora Bold, i want to ask about eb tyre. one of my eb tyre has punctured very bad (langgar bucu divider), had been replaced with spare tyre. Luckily, the spare tyre is same size with other tyres (and rims too).

so, what brand of tyre that suitable to replace my badly punctured tyre (to be used as spare tyre)? i think 16 size tyre price is around RM200 - 300++

tq

:-)

oh before that, my EB is 1 month old with 3000++ km
*
what is the current tyre on EB? maybe get the same one?

2nd hand tyres are good option but try finding good ones with more then 80% threads since yours is new. better get new ones as the other 3 still do not have long milege in them.
brotan
post Jun 14 2012, 08:13 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 14 2012, 06:52 AM)
What do you mean by 2nd tire?
*
sorry, 2nd hand
R80
post Jun 14 2012, 08:31 AM

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those who recently got their car, any prob?
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 14 2012, 08:38 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 13 2012, 11:34 PM)
my place in ss3 has a good tyre shop. their 2nd tyre quite cheap and good
*
2nd tires is one thing i will NEVER do, unless you know it's history.

1. Tires are rubber and rubber cracks with age. Tire have a shelf life and anything more than 4 or 5 yrs is pass it's shelf life. Once pass and driving at high speed, you better go write your wills first.

2. Some tires shop will use sharp knife to cut the rubber groves to make it looks 'new'. That means thinner tires so again, go write your wills first.

sendoh_7
post Jun 14 2012, 08:46 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 14 2012, 08:38 AM)
2nd tires is one thing i will NEVER do, unless you know it's history.

1. Tires are rubber and rubber cracks with age. Tire have a shelf life and anything more than 4 or 5 yrs is pass it's shelf life. Once pass and driving at high speed, you better go write your wills first.

2. Some tires shop will use sharp knife to cut the rubber groves to make it looks 'new'. That means thinner tires so again, go write your wills first.
*
yeah..check the date of manufacturing first..
really a bad idea putting a 2nd hand tyre in an MPV..usually you go travel far, with family some more shakehead.gif

myself only consider this for city run car..short distance only..
even the tyre burst, it wont be too dangerous due to low speed
TSazlan83
post Jun 14 2012, 08:48 AM

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QUOTE(MrEmas @ Jun 13 2012, 11:35 PM)
deleted - double post


Added on June 13, 2012, 11:45 pm

2nd tyre pun ok kan?... my relative also suggested to buy 2nd tyre. cheaper. but how about tyre brand? which is suitable for exora bold?
*
every new exora bold premium equip with 5 pcs rim and tyre...if you what to rotate this 5 tyre then better find same brand gt radial bxt 2 champiro r16/55/205. but for spare tyre only you can find 2nd tyre as save cost...and you just rotate 4 tyre...
2die4
post Jun 14 2012, 09:34 AM

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QUOTE(MrEmas @ Jun 13 2012, 11:28 PM)
hi all

i'm owner of solid white Exora Bold, i want to ask about eb tyre. one of my eb tyre has punctured very bad (langgar bucu divider), had been replaced with spare tyre. Luckily, the spare tyre is same size with other tyres (and rims too).

so, what brand of tyre that suitable to replace my badly punctured tyre (to be used as spare tyre)? i think 16 size tyre price is around RM200 - 300++

tq

:-)

oh before that, my EB is 1 month old with 3000++ km
*
i have change one of my tyre because of punctured badly (not sure why) last 4 month ago (after only about 3 weeks of using EB) sweat.gif ... and the punctured tyre change to chepo brand new tyre cost me RM195 just as for my spare tyre...



TSazlan83
post Jun 14 2012, 09:42 AM

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QUOTE(2die4 @ Jun 14 2012, 09:34 AM)
i have change one of my tyre because of punctured badly (not sure why) last 4 month ago (after only about 3 weeks of using EB)  sweat.gif ... and the punctured tyre change to chepo brand new tyre cost me RM195 just as for my spare tyre...
*
haha chepo...i think china brand...chepo...but quality need to choose wisely
wezeer
post Jun 14 2012, 10:19 AM

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gt radial made in chine meh ?? hehe
waisiong.chan
post Jun 14 2012, 10:19 AM

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hi all,

anyone experienced strong petrol smell inside EB cabin after filling the petrol? any workaround or reason behind this?

Thanks
TSazlan83
post Jun 14 2012, 10:33 AM

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QUOTE(wezeer @ Jun 14 2012, 10:19 AM)
gt radial made in chine meh ?? hehe
*
gt radial indonesia made...can search website for dealer


Added on June 14, 2012, 10:35 am
QUOTE(waisiong.chan @ Jun 14 2012, 10:19 AM)
hi all,

anyone experienced strong petrol smell inside EB cabin after filling the petrol? any workaround or reason behind this?

Thanks
*
i know where the problem coming...haha...but you can try filling petrol do not stop aircond and engine

This post has been edited by azlan83: Jun 14 2012, 10:35 AM
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 14 2012, 10:40 AM

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QUOTE(waisiong.chan @ Jun 14 2012, 10:19 AM)
hi all,

anyone experienced strong petrol smell inside EB cabin after filling the petrol? any workaround or reason behind this?

Thanks
*
Just asking the obvious. Did you left the door or window open when doing refilling?
waisiong.chan
post Jun 14 2012, 10:53 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 14 2012, 10:40 AM)
Just asking the obvious. Did you left the door or window open when doing refilling?
*
No. that is the one that triggered the question. LOL

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post Jun 14 2012, 01:54 PM

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QUOTE(waisiong.chan @ Jun 14 2012, 10:53 AM)
No. that is the one that triggered the question. LOL
*
if u open the cover for petrol...ok open the aircond full

try feel at near the inside join at the petrol cap....you can feel some breeze of aircond...there are some leak or gap that why petrol can be smell inside. if you try to fill petrol...try prevent spill or over flow near the area...
brotan
post Jun 14 2012, 02:02 PM

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is it normal proton screw up and give same chassis no to 2 different dealer?
TSazlan83
post Jun 14 2012, 02:23 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 14 2012, 02:02 PM)
is it normal proton screw up and give same chassis no to 2 different dealer?
*
try call i care...confirm the chasis no. i think you SA should know better. my experience...after got chasis no...i call i care and they confirm it reaseve for me...be patience bro...
brotan
post Jun 14 2012, 02:31 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 14 2012, 02:23 PM)
try call i care...confirm the chasis no. i think you SA should know better. my experience...after got chasis no...i call i care and they confirm it reaseve for me...be patience bro...
*
i am ok if they delay my car (or chassis). problem is the SA said chassis reserved, went to pay the d/p. few days later said proton screw up and make mistake in the chassis allocation vmad.gif

now the money already transferred to them (~ rm 20k) which could have been used to save my housing loan interest rate (mine is flexi loan) cry.gif
TSazlan83
post Jun 14 2012, 02:38 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 14 2012, 02:31 PM)
i am ok if they delay my car (or chassis). problem is the SA said chassis reserved, went to pay the d/p. few days later said proton screw up and make mistake in the chassis allocation  vmad.gif

now the money already transferred to them (~ rm 20k) which could have been used to save my housing loan interest rate (mine is flexi loan)  cry.gif
*
i think you SA screw you to pay the down payment...should you get the chasis no and confirm with i care 1st then pay them. the SA blame proton...haha that the tactic

now you can only wait your car...now everyday you call SA ask the car...until u get the car...if not it will be more delay
brotan
post Jun 14 2012, 02:46 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 14 2012, 02:38 PM)
i think you SA screw you to pay the down payment...should you get the chasis no and confirm with i care 1st then pay them. the SA blame proton...haha that the tactic

now you can only wait your car...now everyday you call SA ask the car...until u get the car...if not it will be more delay
*
I just tembak them and said, "is this the first time you guys deal with proton? don't tell me you don't know there is this possibility and make sure you check on your side to double confirm first?"

I have a gut feeling they have cash flow problem and want to use my d/p somehow

Actually I did call the bank if i can hold (not cancel) the cheque but can't. only way is to cancel which will cause me RM 20 to cancel + I need to go to the showroom to sign some stupid papers. Don't want to waste my time on this kind of things, so I treat it as a lesson learned for me
sendoh_7
post Jun 14 2012, 02:47 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 14 2012, 02:46 PM)
I just tembak them and said, "is this the first time you guys deal with proton? don't tell me you don't know there is this possibility and make sure you check on your side to double confirm first?"

I have a gut feeling they have cash flow problem and want to use my d/p somehow

Actually I did call the bank if i can hold (not cancel) the cheque but can't. only way is to cancel which will cause me RM 20 to cancel + I need to go to the showroom to sign some stupid papers. Don't want to waste my time on this kind of things, so I treat it as a lesson learned for me
*
noted!
will check with icare too later nod.gif
zaidi
post Jun 14 2012, 02:59 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 14 2012, 08:48 AM)
every new exora bold premium equip with 5 pcs rim and tyre...if you what to rotate this 5 tyre then better find  same brand gt radial bxt 2 champiro r16/55/205. but for spare tyre only you can find 2nd tyre as save cost...and you just rotate 4 tyre...
*
This tyre is it good? I'm planning to swap to Michelin xm2 when I got mine. Been using them for sometime and really satisfied with them.
karlbum
post Jun 14 2012, 03:03 PM

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gt radial reviews can be read online.. some good some bad.. overall most of them label it as a good for money tyre... smile.gif
cocodemon
post Jun 14 2012, 05:24 PM

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-post deleted-

This post has been edited by cocodemon: Jun 14 2012, 08:37 PM
brotan
post Jun 14 2012, 05:46 PM

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QUOTE(cocodemon @ Jun 14 2012, 05:24 PM)
guys, pls dun get me wrong. i juz want to share.

from my observation/reading online/asking people, seems its always better & safer to buy proton cars from proton edar. my findings:
1. pe (proton edar) is a part of proton, so its like u r buying directly from proton, without any middle-man.
2. pe delivery of stocks r based on orders, while dealer usually buy in bulk. so pe cars r 'fresher'.
3. due to this stock-pile practice by dealer, few 'problems' might arises, ie; battery connector is loosen, dealer exchange faulty part from another car to another, dealer give/exchange cars with other dealer resulting in someone have to drive the car, etc.
4. pe cars usually have very minimal milage due to they were sent by trailers directly fr factory. literally, they were never driven on road.
5. pe dun have cash-flow problems.
6. pe sc seems slightly better (i solely based this on the fact that most 'not using 10w30 oil' cases happened at non-pe sc's).
7. pe = proton = 100% genuine parts = no worry.
8. the pe sales i went to have: coffee girl (she will ask u, 'nak minum apa encik?'), a mini office of cimb (for faster loan processing) & direct link to the proton internal system (can check everything there, no need to refer elsewhere).

all these r based on my personal obsevation only. pls correct me if i'm wrong.  notworthy.gif
*
Well, my case is handled by PE Taman Megah. I actually found this showroom from Proton's website
V12Kompressor
post Jun 14 2012, 05:48 PM

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QUOTE(cocodemon @ Jun 14 2012, 05:24 PM)
guys, pls dun get me wrong. i juz want to share.

from my observation/reading online/asking people, seems its always better & safer to buy proton cars from proton edar. my findings:
1. pe (proton edar) is a part of proton, so its like u r buying directly from proton, without any middle-man.
2. pe delivery of stocks r based on orders, while dealer usually buy in bulk. so pe cars r 'fresher'.
3. due to this stock-pile practice by dealer, few 'problems' might arises, ie; battery connector is loosen, dealer exchange faulty part from another car to another, dealer give/exchange cars with other dealer resulting in someone have to drive the car, etc.
4. pe cars usually have very minimal milage due to they were sent by trailers directly fr factory. literally, they were never driven on road.
5. pe dun have cash-flow problems.
6. pe sc seems slightly better (i solely based this on the fact that most 'not using 10w30 oil' cases happened at non-pe sc's).
7. pe = proton = 100% genuine parts = no worry.
8. the pe sales i went to have: coffee girl (she will ask u, 'nak minum apa encik?'), a mini office of cimb (for faster loan processing) & direct link to the proton internal system (can check everything there, no need to refer elsewhere).

all these r based on my personal obsevation only. pls correct me if i'm wrong.  notworthy.gif
*
not all dealers buy in bulk. My dealer also order stock according to demand. Therefore normally, the car will be passed on to customers hand a few hours after turun from trailer. biggrin.gif
cocodemon
post Jun 14 2012, 08:40 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 14 2012, 05:46 PM)
Well, my case is handled by PE Taman Megah. I actually found this showroom from Proton's website
*
guess my hypothesis is wrong.
post deleted. Sorry smile.gif
brotan
post Jun 14 2012, 09:56 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 14 2012, 05:46 PM)
Well, my case is handled by PE Taman Megah. I actually found this showroom from Proton's website
*
just 1 comment

i just speculate they purposely do it. maybe it is genuine mistake case which i can't verify
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 14 2012, 10:08 PM

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Don't know why you people have to wait. I can get one almost anytime.

brotan
post Jun 14 2012, 10:11 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 14 2012, 10:08 PM)
Don't know why you people have to wait. I can get one almost anytime.
*
You own the showroom, of course can get immediate stock lah tongue.gif
jemmi
post Jun 15 2012, 08:26 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 14 2012, 10:08 PM)
Don't know why you people have to wait. I can get one almost anytime.
*
May i know which Dealer, I want to order CFE Elegance Brown. Want to call them first to confirm. TQ hmm.gif
TSazlan83
post Jun 15 2012, 10:47 AM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 14 2012, 05:48 PM)
not all dealers buy in bulk. My dealer also order stock according to demand. Therefore normally, the car will be passed on to customers hand a few hours after turun from trailer. biggrin.gif
*
my EB also same...fresh stock...turun trailer PE kulis auto pasir gudang...if you go there...EB no ready stock
Shah's
post Jun 15 2012, 03:15 PM

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Damn I am really misses the bus, Count me in,

Shah's | Elegance Brown | ExoraBoldCFE Premium | APRIL2012
brotan
post Jun 15 2012, 04:28 PM

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Already make an official complain to I-care. Let's see how the drama unfold

Either Proton admit their mistake to allocate the same chassis to 2 dealers or the PE need some short term cash injection

##########

Dear Sir/Madam,

On xxx, I went to Proton Edar dealer showroom at Taman Megah (Atiara Otomobil Sdn Bhd) and booked a Exora Bold Premium Silver color

On xxx, I went to the showroom to place my downpayment of about RM xx k (by cheque) when the Sales Executive (xxx) that handled my case told me the chassis number had been allocated to me. I also signed the loan document at that time

About 2 days later, he called me again and told me that Proton had made a mistake by allocating the same chassis number to 2 different showrooms and at the end, I am the one who didn't get the car and the delivery will be delayed for a while (production can't get enough throughput)

I am furious not because my delivery was delayed than originally planned, but I am furious that I have to put down a down payment with the thought that the car had been reserved for me but in the end due to Proton's mistake, my deposit is now taken (which I could have use it to reduce my housing loan interest) but I can't get the car. And the problem is, I can't get any assurance when the car can be delivered

I have called xxx from I-care to complain about this and the Report No is xxx

I want to know why Proton can make such simple mistake and what action is Proton going to take to resolve this

Thanks

klate
post Jun 15 2012, 09:04 PM

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Hi .....

I'm new Exora bold user from Penang.... Book the car on ~May 15th and got to drive the car on 2nd June.

The Exora is an addition to my current ride - Toyota Unser and Volvo 850 T5 ... still haven't decide if will let go Unser or not
smile.gif .

My first impression of the Exora was .... Woww .... what a good deal for RM80k. Not bad for something coming from Proton, to be honost it is above my expectation for power, space, comfort and accessories ...could it be because I have low expectation for Proton in the first place?

I have not experience any of the problem that were discussed here. Touch wood, hopefully it will stay that way for long. If the car can stand next 3-5 years with normal wear and tear and no major problem then I'm very satisfied with my choice.

Have driven the car down to KL, back to Penang then To Kota Bharu and back to Penang. The ODO clocked ~2,300 km as of now. No complaint on the power and negotiating the bend on east-west hwy to Kota Bharu Kelantan. I can't drive per the highway limit @ 110 as it will be dangerous for me - becoming very SLEEPY, bUt I won't go beyond 160km either on MPV (I enjoy volvo @ 180). As long as I can cruise at 130-150 is good enough for me, which I feel the car is more than capable to do so with comfort and confident.

On the minus side I feel the car body is not very solid (safety wise), the paint is thin and the engine insulation can be better. HOwever to think otherwise I do enjoy the engine sound when pressing hard the peddle.

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 15 2012, 09:28 PM
Turbocrazy
post Jun 16 2012, 12:51 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 15 2012, 04:28 PM)
Already make an official complain to I-care. Let's see how the drama unfold

Either Proton admit their mistake to allocate the same chassis to 2 dealers or the PE need some short term cash injection

[/i]
*
What a lame excuses.. Now that the preve' orders hit the 10k mark, which shares the same engine & tranny
with EB.. I presume, they could not care much.. Anyway, writing to I-care is a good try. Good luck, bro..


SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 16 2012, 06:21 AM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 15 2012, 09:04 PM)
Hi .....

I'm new Exora bold user from Penang.... Book the car on ~May 15th and got to drive the car on 2nd June.

The Exora is an addition to my current ride - Toyota Unser and Volvo 850 T5 ... still haven't decide if will let go Unser or not
smile.gif .

My first impression of the Exora was .... Woww .... what a good deal for RM80k. Not bad for something coming from Proton, to be honost it is above my expectation for power, space, comfort and accessories ...could it be because I have low expectation for Proton in the first place?
Yap. Same here. My budget was RM160K but this Bold fits all my criteria at half the price so why not? Got it without bank loan but none of my friend could understand why I picked a Proton shocking.gif

BTW, that 850T5 is a great car. I was shocked how come something that looks so big and bulky could be so nibble in handling.

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post Jun 16 2012, 04:23 PM

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klate
post Jun 16 2012, 06:24 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 16 2012, 06:21 AM)
Yap. Same here. My budget was RM160K but this Bold fits all my criteria at half the price so why not? Got it without bank loan but none of my friend could understand why I picked a Proton  shocking.gif

BTW, that 850T5 is a great car. I was shocked how come something that looks so big and bulky could be so nibble in handling.
*
Agree that 850T5 Wagon is a great car even even after 16 yrs elapse. It has been serving me well...what I like most it can carry 5 bicycle (MTB) 4 on the roof and 1 inside, if necessary it can still cruise the h/way @ 150 easily with all that loads.

I prefer 850T5 driving alone, but cannot beat the comfort of Exora when travel with family.
I was tossing between 2nd hand Cireon C8, Estima, Odyssey, Grandis, Rexton for quit a long time..... eventually end up with Exora after few test drive smile.gif. Feel that I have made a right decision. With RM90 roadtax, RM80k, and a new car it is a good trade off for some comfort that I would miss from a bigger MPV.

All above statement is true for now, yet to see/experience the Proton EB Quality and Reliability over time.

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 16 2012, 06:26 PM
doctor.AGF
post Jun 16 2012, 06:24 PM

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yup i saw one exora like that in Kuala Terengganu last week, but it was the right side burned i think.

neo1point3
post Jun 16 2012, 07:11 PM

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Agreed! EB is really a value for money MPV

it is big, powerful, comfortable and the chassis is strong thumbup.gif

it will be the perfect mpv under rm 100k if no engine issues
anyone here manage to solve this problem? My EB cfe chocking when idling, they say oil control valve but still the same.
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 16 2012, 07:19 PM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 16 2012, 06:24 PM)
Agree that 850T5 Wagon is a great car even even after 16 yrs elapse. It has been serving me well...what I like most it can carry 5 bicycle (MTB) 4 on the roof and 1 inside, if necessary it can still cruise the h/way @ 150 easily with all that loads.

I prefer 850T5 driving alone, but cannot beat the comfort of Exora when travel with family.
I was tossing between 2nd hand Cireon C8, Estima, Odyssey, Grandis, Rexton for quit a long time..... eventually end up with Exora after few test drive smile.gif. Feel that I have made a right decision. With RM90 roadtax, RM80k, and a new car it is a good trade off for some comfort that I would miss from a bigger MPV. 

All above statement is true for now, yet to see/experience the Proton EB Quality and Reliability over time.
*
I did considered the Estima and Grandis. I didn't like used Estima for fear of bad luck. I didn't like the Grandis interior plus no test car to drive. Ended up with CFE because it drives great. And like you, don't know how's the engine and CVT going to hold up but I suppose Proton will take care of that for the initial 3 years.

Right now, things I didn't quite like but for that price, how to complain?
1. Below 60 kph, CVT makes too much noise
2. Paint work seems pretty thin
3. Still new but I am getting 12 liter/100-km. Not great. Not bad either.


This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 16 2012, 07:22 PM
brotan
post Jun 16 2012, 07:33 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 16 2012, 07:19 PM)
I did considered the Estima and Grandis. I didn't like used Estima for fear of bad luck. I didn't like the Grandis interior plus no test car to drive. Ended up with CFE because it drives great. And like you, don't know how's the engine and CVT going to hold up but I suppose Proton will take care of that for the initial 3 years.

Right now, things I didn't quite like but for that price, how to complain?
1. Below 60 kph, CVT makes too much noise
2. Paint work seems pretty thin
3. Still new but I am getting 12 liter/100-km. Not great. Not bad either.
*
Why not insulate your firewall?
critters
post Jun 16 2012, 09:29 PM

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all EB have allready install will insulate firewall.
Turbocrazy
post Jun 17 2012, 12:38 AM

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QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Jun 16 2012, 07:11 PM)
Agreed! EB is really a value for money MPV

it is big, powerful, comfortable and the chassis is strong  thumbup.gif

it will be the perfect mpv under rm 100k if no engine issues
anyone here manage to solve this problem? My EB cfe chocking when idling, they say oil control valve but still the same.
*
Yupe, they hv not fully solve this problem, mine is happening too, choking or like missed firing, only during idling..
Called up SC, they ask to try switch off the air-con - but also same...
Notice, if apply brake & engaged to "D" during idling, the choke stopped..
The choke always happened when the cooling fan stopped between intervals.. Haizz...!! shakehead.gif
klate
post Jun 17 2012, 06:57 AM

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QUOTE(Turbocrazy @ Jun 17 2012, 12:38 AM)
Yupe, they hv not fully solve this problem, mine is happening too, choking or like missed firing, only during idling..
Called up SC, they ask to try switch off the air-con - but also same...
Notice, if apply brake & engaged to "D" during idling, the choke stopped..
The choke always happened when the cooling fan stopped between intervals..  Haizz...!! shakehead.gif
*
I never felt this, I need to try simulate. So the engine will choke only during idling and in Nutral gear?. How frequent it happen?.

I also need be observe more on CVT noise < 60kmh .... honestly that thing did not bother me and none in my family point that out to me either. It is either I have high tolerance to the noise (Unser produce more noise) or it is really not that noisy and annoying.

So far the noise level is acceptable, a very quiet car can be boring to me. I like to hear/play with engine sound to keep me awake during long trip. What piss me off and mentally tired is car make loud engine sound but did not propels accordingly (like Unser)

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 17 2012, 08:01 AM
Turbocrazy
post Jun 17 2012, 08:17 AM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 17 2012, 06:57 AM)
I never felt this, I need to try simulate. So the engine will choke only during idling and in Nutral gear?. How frequent it happen?.
*
I'm not sure how many EB having this problem.. Previously, my EB been in the workshop for almost 2 weeks.
During that time, my EB became worse. The SC told me they already changed OCV, & realigned the sensor.
After that it was good for 3 weeks, now this initial symptom came back.. rclxub.gif
The choking happen when I drive my EB for more than 25min (engine hot - esp during noon), during idling when
it happens, its like someone step on the gas pedal for a second, RPM rev-up about 100~200rpm then it goes back
to normal.. All this happened when the cooling fan stop & start between intervals..
I wonder how many EB owners experiencing this?? icon_question.gif
brotan
post Jun 17 2012, 09:05 AM

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QUOTE(Turbocrazy @ Jun 17 2012, 08:17 AM)
I'm not sure how many EB having this problem.. Previously, my EB been in the workshop for almost 2 weeks.
During that time, my EB became worse. The SC told me they already changed OCV, & realigned the sensor.
After that it was good for 3 weeks, now this initial symptom came back.. rclxub.gif
The choking happen when I drive my EB for more than 25min (engine hot - esp during noon), during idling when
it happens, its like someone step on the gas pedal for a second, RPM rev-up about 100~200rpm then it goes back
to normal.. All this happened when the cooling fan stop & start between intervals..
I wonder how many EB owners experiencing this??  icon_question.gif
*

Bro,

When did you get your eb?

Maybe you can consider to change your service centre?

brotan
post Jun 17 2012, 09:12 AM

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btw the signal light burn out, is it part of the warranty? Can get free replacement?
V12Kompressor
post Jun 17 2012, 10:52 AM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 17 2012, 06:57 AM)
So far the noise level is acceptable, a very quiet car can be boring to me. I like to hear/play with engine sound to keep me awake during long trip. What piss me off and mentally tired is car make loud engine sound but did not propels accordingly (like Unser)
*
Although the engine is powderful, its still a big chunk of metal to lug.
richsense
post Jun 17 2012, 02:24 PM

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Can anyone share what is your tyre air pressure for front and rear? I was following the measurement on the side of the driver seat but the front tyres look like not enough air. I put front 31 and back 37. Now I change front tyres to 37 and rear 37. The feel is much more different. Not sure whether it is the correct air pressure for EB or not.
doctor.AGF
post Jun 17 2012, 02:46 PM

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QUOTE(richsense @ Jun 17 2012, 02:24 PM)
Can anyone share what is your tyre air pressure for front and rear? I was following the measurement on the side of the driver seat but the front tyres look like not enough air. I put front 31 and back 37. Now I change front tyres to 37 and rear 37. The feel is much more different. Not sure whether it is the correct air pressure for EB or not.
*
unless you are some big scientist cool2.gif or mechanic engineer cool.gif or work as a tire company director flex.gif , I advise you to follow what has been written on the doorplate not what you like to feel or see drool.gif
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 17 2012, 03:40 PM

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QUOTE(richsense @ Jun 17 2012, 02:24 PM)
Can anyone share what is your tyre air pressure for front and rear? I was following the measurement on the side of the driver seat but the front tyres look like not enough air. I put front 31 and back 37. Now I change front tyres to 37 and rear 37. The feel is much more different. Not sure whether it is the correct air pressure for EB or not.
*
Tire pressure is a compromise. Just randomly quoting figures to illustrate what I meant, not actual.

For example:
Front for comfort: 28psi
Front for performance: 30
Front for fuel economy: 33

So Proton compromises at 31psi.


cocodemon
post Jun 17 2012, 09:05 PM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 17 2012, 06:57 AM)
I never felt this, I need to try simulate. So the engine will choke only during idling and in Nutral gear?. How frequent it happen?.

I also need be observe more on CVT noise < 60kmh .... honestly that thing did not bother me and none in my family point that out to me either. It is either I have high tolerance to the noise (Unser produce more noise) or it is really not that noisy and annoying.

So far the noise level is acceptable, a very quiet car can be boring to me. I like to hear/play with engine sound to keep me awake during long trip. What piss me off and mentally tired is car make loud engine sound but did not propels accordingly (like Unser)
*
cvt noise = my eb dun have. not really sure tho
engine choking = oso dun have. this i'm damn sure.

bro klate, mind sharing ur batch no? mind is 86853
for others with this problems, what is ur batch no?

QUOTE(richsense @ Jun 17 2012, 02:24 PM)
Can anyone share what is your tyre air pressure for front and rear? I was following the measurement on the side of the driver seat but the front tyres look like not enough air. I put front 31 and back 37. Now I change front tyres to 37 and rear 37. The feel is much more different. Not sure whether it is the correct air pressure for EB or not.
*
front tires is normal like that, dun worry. it is due to the weight from engine bay



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Turbocrazy
post Jun 17 2012, 11:08 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 17 2012, 09:05 AM)
Bro,

When did you get your eb?

Maybe you can consider to change your service centre?
*
I got my EB early Feb. Initial SC that I sent can't do it, so they sent to the main SC in Ipoh..


Added on June 17, 2012, 11:10 pm
QUOTE(cocodemon @ Jun 17 2012, 09:05 PM)
cvt noise = my eb dun have. not really sure tho
engine choking = oso dun have. this i'm damn sure.

bro klate, mind sharing ur batch no? mind is 86853
for others with this problems, what is ur batch no?
front tires is normal like that, dun worry. it is due to the weight from engine bay
*
My batch no is 78191

This post has been edited by Turbocrazy: Jun 17 2012, 11:10 PM
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 17 2012, 11:26 PM

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QUOTE(cocodemon @ Jun 17 2012, 09:05 PM)
bro klate, mind sharing ur batch no? mind is 86853
for others with this problems, what is ur batch no?
When did you get your Bold with this batch 86853? You problem with it?



klate
post Jun 17 2012, 11:48 PM

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QUOTE(Turbocrazy @ Jun 17 2012, 11:08 PM)
I got my EB early Feb. Initial SC that I sent can't do it, so they sent to the main SC in Ipoh..


Added on June 17, 2012, 11:10 pm
My batch no is 78191
*
How to look for batch number?.

I start to pay more attention while driving to find out if there are any chocking or CVT noise symptom.

Chocking where RPM goes to 1k and 2k --> Never experience.

CVT Noise < 60kmp - I do notice my 16 year old Volvo is smoother and quieter at < 60kmp. Actually I feel the engine less smooth when driving < 40kmp, it feel like driving a manual car with whirling sound, In fact I have that feeling even during my test drive before buying the car. I can still tolerate the minor rough feeling at below 40km as long as car did not die or jerking badly.

I also experience twice where I need to crank twice and do a long cranking (like twice as long compare to normal crank) to start the engine.


doctor.AGF
post Jun 17 2012, 11:52 PM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 17 2012, 11:48 PM)
How to look for batch number?.

I start to pay more attention while driving to find out if there are any chocking or CVT noise symptom.

Chocking where RPM goes to 1k and 2k --> Never experience.

CVT Noise < 60kmp  - I do notice my 16 year old Volvo is smoother and quieter at < 60kmp. Actually I feel the engine less smooth when driving < 40kmp, it feel like driving a manual car with whirling sound, In fact I have that feeling even during my test drive before buying the car. I can still tolerate the minor rough feeling at below 40km as long as car did not die or jerking badly.

I also experience twice where I need to crank twice and do a long cranking (like twice as long compare to normal crank) to start the engine.
*
Hi, you can find the number on the driver door plate.
just wanna ask if you let go your steering does the car go straight or pulls to the left
TQ
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 17 2012, 11:54 PM

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QUOTE(doctor.AGF @ Jun 17 2012, 11:52 PM)
Hi, you can find the number on the driver door plate.
just wanna ask if you let go your steering does the car go straight or pulls to the left
TQ
*
Left
doctor.AGF
post Jun 18 2012, 12:00 AM

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I just want to know why all exora pull to the left and no one is making noise
dont you people get annoyed from having to always hold the steering wheel tilted to the right to maintain straight driving???

klate
post Jun 18 2012, 12:13 AM

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QUOTE(doctor.AGF @ Jun 18 2012, 12:00 AM)
I just want to know why all exora pull to the left and no one is making noise
dont you people get annoyed from having to always hold the steering wheel tilted to the right to maintain straight driving???
*
I did try release the steering while driving on highway and feel the steering is balance and not obviously pulling to the right/left. Well let me try one more time to confirm. However I do feel small steering vibration at 130kmph
doctor.AGF
post Jun 18 2012, 08:13 AM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 18 2012, 12:13 AM)
I did try release the steering while driving on highway and feel the steering is balance and not obviously pulling to the right/left. Well let me try one more time to confirm. However I do feel small steering vibration at 130kmph
*
K tq, Please PM your reply

Regards
cocodemon
post Jun 18 2012, 08:41 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 17 2012, 11:26 PM)
When did you get your Bold with this batch 86853? You problem with it?
*
may 17th = a month ago. car is fresh fr factory.
problem/s:
1. 'errrrrr' sound when hit poles - experienced once when hit a small drain on a kampung road
2. wind sound
no other problem, for now sweat.gif

QUOTE(klate @ Jun 17 2012, 11:48 PM)
I also experience twice where I need to crank twice and do a long cranking (like twice as long compare to normal crank) to start the engine.
*
lol, i experienced exactly the same. happened once need to crank twice, after that need to crank longer.

QUOTE(doctor.AGF @ Jun 18 2012, 12:00 AM)
I just want to know why all exora pull to the left and no one is making noise
dont you people get annoyed from having to always hold the steering wheel tilted to the right to maintain straight driving???
*
this has been discussed b4 sir. u need to read the thread thoroughly. many useful info inside
TSazlan83
post Jun 18 2012, 10:15 AM

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QUOTE(cocodemon @ Jun 18 2012, 08:41 AM)
may 17th = a month ago. car is fresh fr factory.
problem/s:
1. 'errrrrr' sound when hit poles - experienced once when hit a small drain on a kampung road
2. wind sound
no other problem, for now sweat.gif
lol, i experienced exactly the same. happened once need to crank twice, after that need to crank longer.
this has been discussed b4 sir. u need to read the thread thoroughly. many useful info inside
*
Mine eb 86638 got on 4 may inspection on green sticker date 2 may ....so far no problem...just the original tube cap too soft.miss all 3 tyre...replace diy
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 18 2012, 11:13 AM

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QUOTE(doctor.AGF @ Jun 18 2012, 12:00 AM)
I just want to know why all exora pull to the left and no one is making noise
dont you people get annoyed from having to always hold the steering wheel tilted to the right to maintain straight driving???
*
Not serious on level road. Sometime none.


Shah's
post Jun 18 2012, 01:54 PM

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Just sent my eb for owv and ocv change. They will operate my engine and will took 3 days minimum, hope it's true. Now I'm 'Patah kaki' without a car. sad.gif
brotan
post Jun 18 2012, 02:09 PM

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QUOTE(Shah's @ Jun 18 2012, 01:54 PM)
Just sent my eb for owv and ocv change. They will operate my engine and will took 3 days minimum, hope it's true. Now I'm 'Patah kaki' without a car. sad.gif
*
hi bro

do they provide monetary compensation (like daily allowance) or give you a spare car to drive?
klate
post Jun 18 2012, 02:14 PM

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QUOTE(doctor.AGF @ Jun 18 2012, 08:13 AM)
K tq, Please PM your reply

Regards
*
It will be sometime when I have a chance, I like to drive my old car to work. The car will be with my wife most of the time smile.gif

As a side note ... my experience is iyou need to find a level road to really test it out else it is common to either pull to the right or left "slightly".... most likely to the left as our road normally lower on the left for water to flow during rainy.

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 18 2012, 02:33 PM
Turbocrazy
post Jun 18 2012, 02:21 PM

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QUOTE(Shah's @ Jun 18 2012, 01:54 PM)
Just sent my eb for owv and ocv change. They will operate my engine and will took 3 days minimum, hope it's true. Now I'm 'Patah kaki' without a car. sad.gif
*
How come send so sudden?? I tot u EB is running fine...


doctor.AGF
post Jun 18 2012, 03:33 PM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 18 2012, 02:14 PM)
It will be sometime when I have a chance, I like to drive my old car to work. The car will be with my wife most of the time smile.gif

As a side note ... my experience is iyou need to find a level road to really test it out else it is common to either pull to the right or left "slightly".... most likely to the left as our road normally lower on the left for water to flow during rainy.
*
K noted tnx Bro thumbup.gif
neo1point3
post Jun 18 2012, 09:07 PM

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Yeah me too...
Got this one time i need to crank the engine longer than usual...around 4 sec

Wind noise at front passenger side when above 120km/h. I want request sc to change rubber

and got 'terrrrrrr' sound when hit potholes or go sharp bump fast
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 18 2012, 10:56 PM

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Over rough ground, noise from dashboard center and left hand side. Proton quality?

zaidi
post Jun 19 2012, 03:37 AM

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for those having wind sound, did you use the door visor? I think those contribute to the wind noise at high speed.
amd2105
post Jun 19 2012, 09:28 AM

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Hy there, still new here. Just received my EB last friday, boy such a wonderful ride. Well i dunno where to address this but as some of the forumer mentioned here before, there was a rattling trrrrrr sound from behind once it hits small pot hole. Well i guess its not in the manual or maybe i'm just too tired to read the whole thing sweat.gif

2ndly, the car will make a weird sound (as for CFE) once the engine was turned off, sounds like something is running in the engine, freaked at first but somebody told me that its normal for CFE. Is it normal? Just want to confirm this.

The last part, the rear dvd player really testing my patience as i've read everything in the manual (no dvd was tested yet). Plugged in the usb, the display shows the mp3 was on play mode but no sound, stucked at this point until today. Is there any cable or is there any other point that was missed during the process?

Is the front radio unit possibly "connected" via bluetooth or whatever wire "less" with the dvd player unit? Help me please cry.gif

brotan
post Jun 19 2012, 09:31 AM

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Proton people called me about my case

Stay tune as the drama unfolds . Hehe
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 19 2012, 10:54 AM

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Moving from standstill. There is a time lag of about 1 second after pressing accelerator before power comes in. You people have same issue?

sendoh_7
post Jun 19 2012, 11:06 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 19 2012, 10:54 AM)
Moving from standstill. There is a time lag of about 1 second after pressing accelerator before power comes in. You people have same issue?
*
i felt this during first start-up during my test drive before, but afterwards, no more unsure.gif
brotan
post Jun 19 2012, 11:10 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 19 2012, 09:31 AM)
Proton people called me about my case

Stay tune as the drama unfolds . Hehe
*
Proton called me and he told me chassis allocated rclxms.gif

Guess going to Proton directly and complain really works. hehe
sendoh_7
post Jun 19 2012, 11:15 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 19 2012, 11:10 AM)
Proton called me and he told me chassis allocated  rclxms.gif

Guess going to Proton directly and complain really works. hehe
*
congrats bro..
im still struggling selling my old car wink.gif
brotan
post Jun 19 2012, 11:16 AM

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QUOTE(sendoh_7 @ Jun 19 2012, 11:15 AM)
congrats bro..
im still struggling selling my old car  wink.gif
*
tx. you didn't trade in?

btw, what car you are selling?
neo1point3
post Jun 19 2012, 11:42 AM

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QUOTE(amd2105 @ Jun 19 2012, 09:28 AM)

The last part, the rear dvd player really testing my patience as i've read everything in the manual (no dvd was tested yet). Plugged in the usb, the display shows the mp3 was on play mode but no sound, stucked at this point until today. Is there any cable or is there any other point that was missed during the process?

Is the front radio unit possibly "connected" via bluetooth or whatever wire "less" with the dvd player unit? Help me please  cry.gif
*
Have u ever use fm modulator before? Its the same way

You need to select frequency at dvd player eg: 89.9
Then tune your radio to frequency 89.9
Read the dvd manual again, it stated there smile.gif
sendoh_7
post Jun 19 2012, 11:57 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 19 2012, 11:16 AM)
tx. you didn't trade in?

btw, what car you are selling?
*
trade-in they take too low..
selling by myself at mudah..almost confirm buyer
toyota SEG AE111 tongue.gif
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 19 2012, 12:00 PM

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QUOTE(amd2105 @ Jun 19 2012, 09:28 AM)

The last part, the rear dvd player really testing my patience as i've read everything in the manual (no dvd was tested yet). Plugged in the usb, the display shows the mp3 was on play mode but no sound, stucked at this point until today. Is there any cable or is there any other point that was missed during the process?
You should read Page 127 regarding oil chart. I bet 99% of Bold owner don't bother reading that IMO, is one of the most important page.

cocodemon
post Jun 19 2012, 12:06 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 19 2012, 10:54 AM)
Moving from standstill. There is a time lag of about 1 second after pressing accelerator before power comes in. You people have same issue?
*
yup. according to kristof, it is 5s.
we need to anticipate the traffic movement in order to 'sync' with the delay unsure.gif

QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Jun 19 2012, 11:42 AM)
Have u ever use fm modulator before? Its the same way

You need to select frequency at dvd player eg: 89.9
Then tune your radio to frequency 89.9
Read the dvd manual again, it stated there smile.gif
*
wud like to add,
better check the hu 1st regarding the channel/frequency to use. make sure it is clear from interference.
karlbum
post Jun 19 2012, 12:22 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 19 2012, 12:00 PM)
You should read Page 127 regarding oil chart. I bet 99% of Bold owner don't bother reading that IMO, is one of the most important page.
*
read that page and i believe the cheapest petronas syntium 1000 (15w50) is enough for the car.... according to the charts lah smile.gif
sendoh_7
post Jun 19 2012, 12:25 PM

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QUOTE(karlbum @ Jun 19 2012, 12:22 PM)
read that page and i believe the cheapest petronas syntium 1000 (15w50) is enough for the car.... according to the charts lah smile.gif
*
weight 50 for a new engine? are you sure?
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 19 2012, 12:31 PM

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QUOTE(karlbum @ Jun 19 2012, 12:22 PM)
read that page and i believe the cheapest petronas syntium 1000 (15w50) is enough for the car.... according to the charts lah smile.gif
*
No. The best is 10W30.

And unbelievably, it says you must not use Semi-Synthetic or Fully Synthetic. Very strange indeed....

karlbum
post Jun 19 2012, 12:47 PM

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i base it on ambient temperature... malaysia once reached 40 in 1998... and the trend is going up... so i chose 15w50... and no i dare not say the best... merely good enough ....

during 1k and 5k i used 10w30 smile.gif

SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 19 2012, 01:08 PM

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QUOTE(karlbum @ Jun 19 2012, 12:47 PM)
i base it on ambient temperature... malaysia once reached 40 in 1998... and the trend is going up... so i chose 15w50... and no i dare not say the best... merely good enough .... 

during 1k and 5k i used 10w30 smile.gif
*
That is an exception and I wouldn't worry about that.

But if you insist on worrying, I reckon you should go for 10W40 (have to be Semi or Synthetic, no Mineral). 15w50 is too thick and the range far too wide so increase risk of oil breaking down.

sendoh_7
post Jun 19 2012, 01:13 PM

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^increase FC too
Shah's
post Jun 19 2012, 01:16 PM

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QUOTE(Turbocrazy @ Jun 18 2012, 02:21 PM)
How come send so sudden?? I tot u EB is running fine...
*
I didn't realize the OWV really that time, when inspection on first service, the SC clarified that I have OWV and OCV problem. so they've ordered the item and took 1 month to wait until the parts arrived. But my EB is still superb without any other problem u guys mentioned here.


Added on June 19, 2012, 1:16 pm
QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 18 2012, 02:09 PM)
hi bro

do they provide monetary compensation (like daily allowance) or give you a spare car to drive?
*
nope doh.gif

This post has been edited by Shah's: Jun 19 2012, 01:16 PM
karlbum
post Jun 19 2012, 01:58 PM

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if we focus on SAE 30 (10w30) as being the best fit for exora bold wouldn't that make the best that petronas has to offer at syntium 5000 0w30?

because the difference between 10w30 and 0w30 is cold start viscosity?
just saying because i believe this is what is offered at most proton sc and some dont let ppl use their own oil.
amd2105
post Jun 19 2012, 02:03 PM

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QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Jun 19 2012, 11:42 AM)
Have u ever use fm modulator before? Its the same way

You need to select frequency at dvd player eg: 89.9
Then tune your radio to frequency 89.9
Read the dvd manual again, it stated there smile.gif
*
Ok, i'll give it a try later tonight or my wife will kill me if she knows that thing wont work tongue.gif , thanks!
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 19 2012, 02:11 PM

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QUOTE(karlbum @ Jun 19 2012, 01:58 PM)
if we focus on SAE 30 (10w30) as being the best fit for exora bold wouldn't that make the best that petronas has to offer at syntium 5000 0w30?

because the difference between 10w30 and 0w30 is cold start viscosity?
just saying because i believe this is what is offered at most proton sc and some dont let ppl use their own oil.
*
The car manual said you CAN NOT use 0W30. Not enough protection. Have to stick with oil starting with at least 10W**


majuperak
post Jun 19 2012, 02:15 PM

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Exora Bold kawan2,

Now am considering Exora Bold Premium CVT .... initially was thinking of Altis 1.6E or 1.8E. Current drive is Livina 1.6A .... need advise
Shah's
post Jun 19 2012, 02:17 PM

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from GL to Altis??? Now considering Exora Bold???

little confuse here smile.gif
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 19 2012, 02:19 PM

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QUOTE(majuperak @ Jun 19 2012, 02:15 PM)
Exora Bold kawan2,

Now am considering Exora Bold Premium CVT .... initially was thinking of Altis 1.6E or 1.8E. Current drive is Livina 1.6A .... need advise
*
what is it that you don't like about the Lavina and wanting to change to Bold? I thought the Lavina is a perfectly fine MPV.

giggsmu
post Jun 19 2012, 02:24 PM

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Received my EB yesterday. A lot of things yet to learn about this MPV. BTW, i've noticed that the Spare Tyre is exactly the same with the 4 tyres, with 16"rim. Is that the same with earlier EB? TQ
Shah's
post Jun 19 2012, 02:25 PM

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QUOTE(giggsmu @ Jun 19 2012, 02:24 PM)
Received my EB yesterday. A lot of things yet to learn about this MPV. BTW, i've noticed that the Spare Tyre is exactly the same with the 4 tyres, with 16"rim. Is that the same with earlier EB? TQ
*
Yup and congrats with ur new ride Bro. rclxms.gif
Turbocrazy
post Jun 19 2012, 02:44 PM

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QUOTE(majuperak @ Jun 19 2012, 02:15 PM)
Exora Bold kawan2,

Now am considering Exora Bold Premium CVT .... initially was thinking of Altis 1.6E or 1.8E. Current drive is Livina 1.6A .... need advise
*
From lavina to exora ?? Downgrading?? rclxub.gif
karlbum
post Jun 19 2012, 02:47 PM

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Optiplex: i thought *W is cold start rating... and so the lower it is the better because provide better cold start protection... the number behind is for protection after engine running?

so i understand that after engine runs.. if they say 10w30 is good any 30 is good.

but your point seems to point that 0w wont offer enough protection... cold start protection?

or what is ur understanding of the SAE Rating?

--------------edit---
http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/which-30-weight-oil.php

This post has been edited by karlbum: Jun 19 2012, 02:56 PM
cocodemon
post Jun 19 2012, 03:55 PM

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QUOTE(Turbocrazy @ Jun 19 2012, 02:44 PM)
From lavina to exora ?? Downgrading?? rclxub.gif
*
price & class = downgrading
size, power & features = upgrading

brows.gif brows.gif brows.gif
majuperak
post Jun 19 2012, 04:02 PM

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I am currently driving Livina 1.6A, need to buy another car ... just gotten my WWWxxxx no. plate last week.

At first want to buy Altis 1.6E or 1.8E but now is considering Exora Bold Premium CVT ..... seems good value for money. How is the reliability ? from this thread seems got issues .... proton quality ??


Added on June 19, 2012, 4:04 pm
QUOTE(cocodemon @ Jun 19 2012, 03:55 PM)
price & class = downgrading
size, power & features = upgrading

brows.gif  brows.gif  brows.gif
*
Aiyah apa downgrade ? Buying another car mah ...... well Exora Bold seems cheap at RM80k .... I called SA they say can give RM1.5k discount but no stock this month .....

This post has been edited by majuperak: Jun 19 2012, 04:04 PM
jemmi
post Jun 19 2012, 04:35 PM

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How is the reliability ? from this thread seems got issues .... proton quality ??

All Malaysian know proton quality. Proton introduce new CFE engine & CVT Gearbox, may be after 3-5 years everything settle like campro now. Anyway the price reasonable.
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 19 2012, 04:54 PM

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QUOTE(karlbum @ Jun 19 2012, 02:47 PM)
Optiplex: i thought *W is cold start rating... and so the lower it is the better because provide better cold start protection... the number behind is for protection after engine running?

so i understand that after engine runs.. if they say 10w30 is good any 30 is good.

but your point seems to point that 0w wont offer enough protection... cold start protection?

or what is ur understanding of the SAE Rating?
Your understanding of oil viscosity is also my understanding and I am as confused as you are. Have a look at Page 127 whereby it says you can't use 0W or 5W.

klate
post Jun 19 2012, 08:34 PM

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QUOTE(amd2105 @ Jun 19 2012, 09:28 AM)
Hy there, still new here. Just received my EB last friday, boy such a wonderful ride. Well i dunno where to address this but as some of the forumer mentioned here before, there was a rattling trrrrrr sound from behind once it hits small pot hole. Well i guess its not in the manual or maybe i'm just too tired to read the whole thing  sweat.gif

2ndly, the car will make a weird sound (as for CFE) once the engine was turned off, sounds like something is running in the engine, freaked at first but somebody told me that its normal for CFE. Is it normal? Just want to confirm this.

The last part, the rear dvd player really testing my patience as i've read everything in the manual (no dvd was tested yet). Plugged in the usb, the display shows the mp3 was on play mode but no sound, stucked at this point until today. Is there any cable or is there any other point that was missed during the process?

Is the front radio unit possibly "connected" via bluetooth or whatever wire "less" with the dvd player unit? Help me please  cry.gif
*
1. the trrrrrr sound when hitting pot hole -->Have not notice this, need to try out and observed
2. Weird sound when turn off engine --> Does it sound like FAN spinning?, if it is the fan than normal. Actually it does irritate me, don't understand why fan still running to cool the engine when engine off.
3. DVD player --> You need to sync the displayed channel on the Player with the FM radio (you can change default channel by pressing the green button on the remote). Make sure you use a channel that not occupied by any station. Alternatively you can run a wire from the DVD player head phone out into the AUX in on the radio then switch radio receiver MODE to AUX, the sound will be much clearer that way.
Note: Long press the "BAND" button to activate manual channel search.


Added on June 19, 2012, 8:36 pm
QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 19 2012, 10:54 AM)
Moving from standstill. There is a time lag of about 1 second after pressing accelerator before power comes in. You people have same issue?
*
I do Not notice any delay from stand still to moving. I heard this is common on Preve first batch but not on EB.

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 19 2012, 09:03 PM
TSazlan83
post Jun 19 2012, 10:38 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 19 2012, 04:54 PM)
Your understanding of oil viscosity is also my understanding and I am as confused as you are. Have a look at Page 127 whereby it says you can't use 0W or 5W.
*
What I understood in the manual...minimum API SL service...10 to 30w...actually you can use any oil rate but must at least API SL rate or above...about the low rating is not effect as it rate for lowest ambient temperature...in europe the oil need stay liquip they got 4 season in winter the temp will drop to below 0 degree. About fuel consumption off course using fully syn. Oil fuel consumption will low as the friction become lower due to oil charcteristic low viscocity but no oil break...nowdays at europe or US the service mileage also higher as modern engine and oil lubriction can stand more mileage...that why now they got 10000km period service...but if u use the right oil grade..do not worry bro.
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 19 2012, 11:13 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 19 2012, 10:38 PM)
What I understood in the manual...minimum API SL service...10 to 30w...actually you can use any oil rate  but must at least API SL rate or above...about the low rating is not effect as it rate for lowest ambient temperature...in europe the oil need stay liquip they got 4 season in winter the temp will drop to below 0 degree. About fuel consumption off course using fully syn. Oil fuel consumption  will low as the friction become lower due to oil charcteristic low viscocity but no oil break...nowdays at europe or US the service mileage also higher as modern engine and oil lubriction can stand more mileage...that why now they got 10000km period service...but if u use the right oil grade..do not worry bro.
*
This oil chart clearly said:
5W30 can only be used below ambient temperature 10C. Meaning Canada etc
5W40 can only be used below ambient temperature 20C. Again, summer in Canada etc.

Malaysian hot ambient temperature is in the mid-30's so you can't use them.

I am sticking to 10W30, furthermore, they are dirt cheap compared to 5W30 or 5W40. Cheap and good, why not?


This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 19 2012, 11:33 PM
karlbum
post Jun 19 2012, 11:19 PM

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wonder where's mat79.. would like to ask him to ask his proton friends...
Shah's
post Jun 19 2012, 11:30 PM

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QUOTE(karlbum @ Jun 19 2012, 11:19 PM)
wonder where's mat79.. would like to ask him to ask his proton friends...
*
DSZ resign from Proton affecting Mat79 to resign from Lowyat as well??? shocking.gif shocking.gif shocking.gif

This post has been edited by Shah's: Jun 19 2012, 11:31 PM
majuperak
post Jun 20 2012, 01:45 AM

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When is the Exora Bold Premium CVT launched ? Now is it still considered first batch of Exora Bold ? Seems like problems still not resolved ? Sigh .... proton oh proton !!
zaidi
post Jun 20 2012, 02:18 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 19 2012, 11:13 PM)
This oil chart clearly said:
5W30 can only be used below ambient temperature 10C. Meaning Canada etc
5W40 can only be used below ambient temperature 20C. Again, summer in Canada etc.

Malaysian hot ambient temperature is in the mid-30's so you can't use them.

I am sticking to 10W30, furthermore, they are dirt cheap compared to 5W30 or 5W40. Cheap and good, why not?
*
5Wxx, 10Wxx, 15Wxx - W rating is for winter, ie cold condition. not applicable in MY. The XX at the back is more important. Lesser XX is better and put less strain to the engine.
dares
post Jun 20 2012, 03:16 AM

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QUOTE(zaidi @ Jun 20 2012, 02:18 AM)
5Wxx, 10Wxx, 15Wxx  - W rating is for winter, ie cold condition. not applicable in MY. The XX at the back is more important. Lesser XX is better and put less strain to the engine.
*
No, lower number means less viscous, that means less protection for your engine.

Lower viscosity = engine less sluggish = better fc = less protection.
Higher viscosity = engine more sluggish = worse fc = more protection.

Its a tradeoff between performance and protection against engine wear. Generally, 40 is a good balance between both. 30 is also good enough for those who like to squeeze just a bit more response from your engine.
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 20 2012, 05:45 AM

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All of you are talking about the obvious but none is answering the question I posted. In short, like me, you people also don't know the answer either.

The question is "Why did Proton said you must stick to 10W* and must not use 5W* in Malaysia climate".


At first I thought it was a misprint so I dig out all the car manual I can lay my hands on and sure enough, I find another different manufacturer saying the same thing. There must be some other thing that I just don't understand and neither do any of you.


TSazlan83
post Jun 20 2012, 07:21 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 20 2012, 05:45 AM)
All of you are talking about the obvious but none is answering the question I posted. In short, like me, you people also don't know the answer either.

The question is "Why did Proton said you must stick to 10W* and must not use 5W* in Malaysia climate".
At first I thought it was a misprint so I dig out all the car manual I can lay my hands on and sure enough, I find another different manufacturer saying the same thing. There must be some other thing that I just don't understand and neither do any of you.
*
Cool down bro...I see in the manual proton do not say cannot use 5w* oil. There are quotes in to use 10-30w SL or higher API standard...so choose oil with high API standard...SL,SM or else. On grade for malaysia weather better stick to XX30W use fully syn. Then can service after 10000km mileage. If semi service after 5000km. Up to you bro...
ultramaman
post Jun 20 2012, 09:06 AM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 20 2012, 07:21 AM)
Cool down bro...I see in the manual proton do not say cannot use 5w* oil. There are quotes in to use 10-30w SL or higher API standard...so  choose oil with high API standard...SL,SM or else. On grade for malaysia weather better stick to XX30W use fully syn. Then can service after 10000km mileage. If semi service after 5000km. Up to you bro...
*
this is bull. service interval for campro engines is 10k with factory recomended grade oil. even the service interval book says 10k. even news annoucement says preve service interval 10k. so will u stop with this 5k-semi syn,10k fully syn mentality ? if u drive a honda, and its service manual says 5k. then, regardless of oil. u service 5k. if u drive a volvo, and its service manual says every 20k or once a year u service every 20k.

so, u follow what your car manufacturer says.
engine oil r & d has improved a lot over the years, and the rule of thumb that our dad used cant be applied now.

SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 20 2012, 09:10 AM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 20 2012, 07:21 AM)
Cool down bro...I see in the manual proton do not say cannot use 5w* oil. There are quotes in to use 10-30w SL or higher API standard...so  choose oil with high API standard...SL,SM or else. On grade for malaysia weather better stick to XX30W use fully syn. Then can service after 10000km mileage. If semi service after 5000km. Up to you bro...
*
Yes, it did. In the oil chart picture. Go have a close look at the 5W30 and 5W40 oil shown in Proton oil chart. It clearly said you should not use them if Ambient Temperature exceeds 20C.

I am sure you know our Malaysian ambient temperature FAR EXCEED 20C. 35C is common. In other word, you must not use 5W30 or 5W40 in Malaysia. Like you, I don't agree with Proton but that is what Proton is saying. Since Proton know more about CFE than you or me, who do you follow?


Added on June 20, 2012, 9:16 am
QUOTE(ultramaman @ Jun 20 2012, 09:06 AM)
this is bull. service interval for campro engines is 10k with factory  recomended grade oil. even the service interval book says 10k. even news annoucement says preve service interval 10k. so will u stop with this 5k-semi syn,10k fully syn mentality ? if u drive a honda, and its service manual says 5k. then, regardless of oil. u service 5k. if u drive a volvo, and its service manual says every 20k or once  a year u service every 20k.

so, u follow what your car manufacturer says.
engine oil r & d has improved a lot over the years, and the rule of thumb that our dad used cant be applied now.
*
I usually take very close look at oil and service interval and uses the car manual as the definitive guide and totally ignore what mechanic said.

In the manual, it says:
1. Normal driving. OCI is 10K

2. Severe driving. OCI is 5K. Severe is defined as frequent city dumper-to-dumper traffic jam or driving with distance below ~6km per trip.

This is what I intend to do:
1. Service at Proton every 10K to main Proton warranty.
2. Only change oil at outside garage using same oil/filter every 5K to cut cost. Since the manual said mineral 10W30 is best, Mach5 10W30 is dirt cheap at 1/3 the price of 0W30. Mine is severe driving.

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 20 2012, 09:24 AM
2die4
post Jun 20 2012, 09:55 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 20 2012, 09:10 AM)

In the manual, it says:
1. Normal driving. OCI is 10K

2. Severe driving. OCI is 5K. Severe is defined as frequent city dumper-to-dumper traffic jam or driving with distance below ~6km per trip.

This is what I intend to do:
1. Service at Proton every 10K to main Proton warranty.
2. Only change oil at outside garage using same oil/filter every 5K to cut cost. Since the manual said mineral 10W30 is best, Mach5 10W30 is dirt cheap at 1/3 the price of 0W30. Mine is severe driving.
*
kinda agreed with u on the service interval of 10k at Proton SC....

Maybe my next visit to Proton SC at 10k.... than 15k at my normal workshop (using 10w30) and back to Proton SC at 20k....

Might safe a bit on cost of service at Proton SC but still maintain Proton Warranty since the booklet says every 10k...

thumbup.gif


amd2105
post Jun 20 2012, 11:46 AM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 19 2012, 08:34 PM)
1. the trrrrrr sound when hitting pot hole -->Have not notice this, need to try out and observed
2. Weird sound when turn off engine --> Does it sound like FAN spinning?, if it is the fan than normal. Actually it does irritate me, don't understand why fan still running to cool the engine when engine off.
3. DVD player --> You need to sync the displayed channel on the Player with the FM radio (you can change default channel by pressing the green button on the remote). Make sure you use a channel that not occupied by any station. Alternatively you can run a wire from the DVD player head phone out into the AUX in on the radio then switch radio receiver MODE to AUX, the sound will be much clearer that way.
Note: Long press the "BAND" button to activate manual channel search.


Added on June 19, 2012, 8:36 pm

I do Not notice any delay from stand still to moving. I heard this is common on Preve first batch but not on EB.
*
The rattling sound as far as i'm concerned will happen if you hit a hole, sometimes no sound at all, still curious about this but let me confirm first with any SC or whoever really know about this issue. Hopefully its not that serious.

The engine sounds like a big fan or turbine that is spinning or rather a compressor for me, i counted the time to ensure its stop from producing such irritating sound almost 30sec, sometimes shorter than that sweat.gif

Don't have the luxury to test the dvd unit coz my toddlers keep on crying the whole night, they need feeding instead of dvd pleasure tongue.gif

Will give it a try again tonight, hopefully.. rclxub.gif anyway thanks for the advice smile.gif
rapidbumi
post Jun 20 2012, 03:23 PM

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a stone chips my windscreen today... only realized when reached office parking... anybody knows a good Dr Cermin..?
Attached Image Attached Image
azzet
post Jun 20 2012, 03:57 PM

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QUOTE(giggsmu @ Jun 19 2012, 02:24 PM)
Received my EB yesterday. A lot of things yet to learn about this MPV. BTW, i've noticed that the Spare Tyre is exactly the same with the 4 tyres, with 16"rim. Is that the same with earlier EB? TQ
*
Bro,

When you booked the EB? Mine already 2 months for Elegance Brown and still waiting...emmmmmmmm
brotan
post Jun 20 2012, 03:58 PM

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any recommendation when i get the car, what i should check before accepting it?
amd2105
post Jun 20 2012, 04:35 PM

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QUOTE(azzet @ Jun 20 2012, 03:57 PM)
Bro,

When you booked the EB? Mine already 2 months for Elegance Brown and still waiting...emmmmmmmm
*
I just received my EB last Friday, Elegance Brown as that was the color i'm requesting before genetic silver. Booked last month as i'm dealing with Gmart Kajang & Minda Pertiwi Cheras branch if not mistaken. I believe it all depends on the sales person on how fast they do things and the availability of the color we chose but just my luck to receive it earlier than expected. Hope you get yours soonest smile.gif


Added on June 20, 2012, 4:42 pm
QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 20 2012, 03:58 PM)
any recommendation when i get the car, what i should check before accepting it?
*
Not really sure at first but did a check on the tint if it is really from ecotint (if it is premiun and there is a leaflet about ecotint at the passanger front glovebox). Mine don't have what they claimed to be ecotint as there are no marking on the rear screen, quite in hurry when we picked the car last week, dunno whether i was conned or what as i dun bother to take the tint matter seriously at that time.

Other than that check the wiper, signals and make sure there is no hanky panky happening before you drive away from the show room. Well i guess that's all tongue.gif


Added on June 20, 2012, 4:45 pm
QUOTE(rapidbumi @ Jun 20 2012, 03:23 PM)
a stone chips my windscreen today... only realized when reached office parking... anybody knows a good Dr Cermin..?
Attached Image Attached Image
*
Where is your location? If in Bandar Baru Bangi there is one Dr Cermin outlet at sec 7 if i'm not mistaken, just go there and hopefully they can help you smile.gif

This post has been edited by amd2105: Jun 20 2012, 04:45 PM
azzet
post Jun 20 2012, 05:38 PM

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[quote=amd2105,Jun 20 2012, 04:35 PM]
I just received my EB last Friday, Elegance Brown as that was the color i'm requesting before genetic silver. Booked last month as i'm dealing with Gmart Kajang & Minda Pertiwi Cheras branch if not mistaken. I believe it all depends on the sales person on how fast they do things and the availability of the color we chose but just my luck to receive it earlier than expected. Hope you get yours soonest smile.gif


Booked mine at Tasik Permaisuri eventhough I stay at Kajang... Last month they offered me a just arrived Cocoa Grey but I refused as not want to regret later... BTW saw one new EB Elegance Brown at Sutera Kajang yesterday... Is that you?
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 20 2012, 05:55 PM

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What FC are you people getting. Mine not good at ~12 L/100km.
brotan
post Jun 20 2012, 06:08 PM

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http://www.mydeal.com.my/deals/kuala-lumpu...a_8893_163980_9

any idea if this is worth it?
neo1point3
post Jun 20 2012, 07:30 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 20 2012, 05:55 PM)
What FC are you people getting. Mine not good at ~12 L/100km.
*
What is your mileage?

Mine during below 1000km fc is 12.6L/100km
1000-4000km fc is 11.8L/100km
Now at 6000km fc is 10.5L/100km

Full city driving
amd2105
post Jun 20 2012, 08:04 PM

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[quote=azzet,Jun 20 2012, 05:38 PM]
[quote=amd2105,Jun 20 2012, 04:35 PM]
I just received my EB last Friday, Elegance Brown as that was the color i'm requesting before genetic silver. Booked last month as i'm dealing with Gmart Kajang & Minda Pertiwi Cheras branch if not mistaken. I believe it all depends on the sales person on how fast they do things and the availability of the color we chose but just my luck to receive it earlier than expected. Hope you get yours soonest smile.gif
Booked mine at Tasik Permaisuri eventhough I stay at Kajang... Last month they offered me a just arrived Cocoa Grey but I refused as not want to regret later... BTW saw one new EB Elegance Brown at Sutera Kajang yesterday... Is that you?
*

[/quote]


Cocoa Grey, that was the top in my list but the sales person intelligently brainwashed me to pick Elegant Brown instead sweat.gif Not my route Sutera Kajang, hehe..if you saw the one that has a "baby in car" sticker on the top right corner at the rear screen well then its me tongue.gif

Btw, i live in Kajang as well smile.gif


Added on June 20, 2012, 8:07 pm[quote=neo1point3,Jun 20 2012, 07:30 PM]
What is your mileage?

Mine during below 1000km fc is 12.6L/100km
1000-4000km fc is 11.8L/100km
Now at 6000km fc is 10.5L/100km

Full city driving
*

[/quote]

well not fully tested yet as the car just move around the neighborhood only so not very sure..

This post has been edited by amd2105: Jun 20 2012, 08:07 PM
klate
post Jun 20 2012, 09:36 PM

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QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Jun 20 2012, 07:30 PM)
What is your mileage?

Mine during below 1000km fc is 12.6L/100km
1000-4000km fc is 11.8L/100km
Now at 6000km fc is 10.5L/100km

Full city driving
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Do you reset the ave fuel meter for every step above?. If the latest 10.5l/100km @6000km is cumulative average from day one then the actual should be better than that. If i'm right the fuel consumption will be high at the beginning of the life and getting better over time before settle after > 5000km (2nd service).
neo1point3
post Jun 20 2012, 09:39 PM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 20 2012, 09:36 PM)
Do you reset the ave fuel meter for every step above?. If the latest 10.5l/100km @6000km is cumulative average from day one then the actual should be better than that. If i'm right the fuel consumption will be high at the beginning of the life and getting better over time before settle after > 5000km (2nd service).
*
I never reset back since day one

Oh damn, 5000km need to send sc 2nd service ah? ohmy.gif
mine already 6000km ++
V12Kompressor
post Jun 20 2012, 10:28 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 20 2012, 09:10 AM)
Yes, it did. In the oil chart picture. Go have a close look at the 5W30 and 5W40 oil shown in Proton oil chart. It clearly said you should not use them if Ambient Temperature exceeds 20C.

I am sure you know our Malaysian ambient temperature FAR EXCEED 20C. 35C is common. In other word, you must not use 5W30 or 5W40 in Malaysia. Like you, I don't agree with Proton but that is what Proton is saying. Since Proton know more about CFE than you or me, who do you follow?
*
but when your engine is running at optimum condition, I dont think the temperature is merely 35 degrees. wink.gif smile.gif
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 20 2012, 10:31 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 20 2012, 10:28 PM)
but when your engine is running at optimum condition, I dont think the temperature is merely 35 degrees.  wink.gif smile.gif
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Engine oil are being selected based on AMBIENT TEMPERATURE and ours is about 35C. Not OPERATING TEMPERATURE.

V12Kompressor
post Jun 20 2012, 10:38 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 20 2012, 10:31 PM)
Engine oil are being selected based on AMBIENT TEMPERATURE and ours is about 35C. Not OPERATING TEMPERATURE.
*
but which of those you think has direct/ greater importance?

ambient temperature which determines the ability to start the engine (fluidity of engine oil)

or

operating temperature which determines the overall viscosity and longevity of the engine oil?

This post has been edited by V12Kompressor: Jun 20 2012, 11:04 PM
klate
post Jun 21 2012, 06:20 AM

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QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Jun 20 2012, 09:39 PM)
I never reset back since day one

Oh damn, 5000km need to send sc 2nd service ah?  ohmy.gif
mine already 6000km ++
*
Depending on the oil grade used, you can opt for 10k or 5k service interval.

To be more accurate try reset your ave meter ..... to reset, long press while the meter is being selected (blinking)

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 21 2012, 06:23 AM
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 21 2012, 06:25 AM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 20 2012, 10:38 PM)
but which of those you think has direct/ greater importance?

ambient temperature which determines the ability to start the engine (fluidity of engine oil)

or

operating temperature which determines the overall viscosity and longevity of the engine oil?
*
Engineer would already have taken that into account. Regardless of what ambient temperature, the operating temperature would be fairly predictable due to cooling system of the car.

So who do we trust? The very engineer who design the engine or non-engineer?



V12Kompressor
post Jun 21 2012, 08:06 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 21 2012, 06:25 AM)
Engineer would already have taken that into account. Regardless of what ambient temperature, the operating temperature would be fairly predictable due to cooling system of the car.

So who do we trust? The very engineer who design the engine or non-engineer?
*
It has come to our general consensus that the engineers at Proton has recommended engine oil of at least SAE 10w30 and above. But, what does those numbers really means? It means that the oil has conformed to SAE10W specifications in winter testing (-17 degrees celcius) and conformed to SAE30 ratings during operating temperature (100 degrees Celsius). The 10w reflects the fluidity of the engine oil during winter temperature which determines the ability to crank the engine and keep it properly lubricated at the first crank of the engine. However, due to our ambient temperature which is constantly around 22~35 degrees Celsius there are no issues of engine oil getting crystallized. Therefore, the SAE10w part can be ignored for most of the users in our market.

In conclusion, it is safe to say that the chart serves only as a reference for users which experience cold weather (4 seasons) or countries which has all long cold weather. Users who experience all round summer like us can use whatever engine oil in the market, as long as it is a minimum of SAE30, regardless of 0w, 5w, 10w, 15w or 20w.
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post Jun 21 2012, 08:56 AM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 21 2012, 08:06 AM)
It has come to our general consensus that the engineers at Proton has recommended engine oil of at least SAE 10w30 and above. But, what does those numbers really means? It means that the oil has conformed to SAE10W specifications in winter testing (-17 degrees celcius) and conformed to SAE30 ratings during operating temperature (100 degrees Celsius). The 10w reflects the fluidity of the engine oil during winter temperature which determines the ability to crank the engine and keep it properly lubricated at the first crank of the engine. However, due to our ambient temperature which is constantly around 22~35 degrees Celsius there are no issues of engine oil getting crystallized. Therefore, the SAE10w part can be ignored for most of the users in our market.   

In conclusion, it is safe to say that the chart serves only as a reference for users which experience cold weather (4 seasons) or countries which has all long cold weather. Users who experience all round summer like us can use whatever engine oil in the market, as long as it is a minimum of SAE30, regardless of 0w, 5w, 10w, 15w or 20w.
*
You know and I know and I am sure Proton engineer also know that, don't you think? So no need to keep repeating it.

Since EVERYBODY know that we can ignore the 10W, then tell me, why does the CFE oil charts say 5W30 & 5W40 can only be used for Ambient Temperature BELOW 20C? Whereas 10w30 can be used up to 40C? Doesn't make any sense, right? In theory, BOTH 5W30 and 10W30 should BOTH be useable up to 40C. This is the mystery I want to solve.

My conclusion is, I don't know the answer and neither do anyone in this thread. But I sure would like to know.....




2die4
post Jun 21 2012, 08:58 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 20 2012, 06:08 PM)
For RM49 get labor + oil filter and wheel alignment, i think it worth when the labor charge kick in ie at 15k service... because normally labor charge at Proton SC start for RM55 - RM255 depend on the service type.

but it not included Engine Oil??? rclxub.gif




V12Kompressor
post Jun 21 2012, 09:24 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 21 2012, 08:56 AM)
You know and I know and I am sure Proton engineer also know that, don't you think? So no need to keep repeating it.

Since EVERYBODY know that we can ignore the 10W, then tell me, why does the CFE oil charts say 5W30 & 5W40 can only be used for Ambient Temperature BELOW 20C? Whereas 10w30 can be used up to 40C? Doesn't make any sense, right? In theory, BOTH 5W30 and 10W30 should BOTH be useable up to 40C. This is the mystery I want to solve.

My conclusion is, I don't know the answer and neither do anyone in this thread. But I sure would like to know.....
*
It wouldn't any make sense if "10w30 can be used up to 40C". If an engine oil can only be used up to 40C, meaning by 120C, the engine oil has completely degraded on the very first crank of the engine.

All engine oil can withstand temperatures up to 120++, as that is the normal operating temperature of the engine.
Therefore, it is safe to assume that the engine oil chart doesn't represent which engine oil to use, but rather just a reference of the engine oil fluidity at a specific ambient temperature.
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 21 2012, 09:56 AM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 21 2012, 09:24 AM)
It wouldn't any make sense if "10w30 can be used up to 40C". If an engine oil can only be used up to 40C, meaning by 120C, the engine oil has completely degraded on the very first crank of the engine.

All engine oil can withstand temperatures up to 120++, as that is the normal operating temperature of the engine.
Therefore, it is safe to assume that the engine oil chart doesn't represent which engine oil to use, but rather just a reference of the engine oil fluidity at a specific ambient temperature.
*
I would like you to show me an oil chart for ambient temperature 120C. There is no such thing. If there were, it probably will have an viscosity of 60W150.




V12Kompressor
post Jun 21 2012, 11:26 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 21 2012, 09:56 AM)
I would like you to show me an oil chart for ambient temperature 120C. There is no such thing. If there were, it probably will have an viscosity of 60W150.
*
120C is not ambient temperature but it is operating temperature. Dont confuse between both. Which country has an ambient temperature of 120C? Why the chart only shows up to 40C?

Ambient temperature only matters before and during cranking of the engine. Once the engine is running and as it warms up, operating temperature matters the most. Before I go deeply, I think we need to know more about engine oil basics. As we know, engine oil crystallize at low temperature and break up at extreme high temperature. Pure mineral oil wears out at a very fast rate. Oil producers usually rely on additives, especially Viscocity Index Improvers to make the engine oil more stable, improved longevity and available for wide range of usage. The higher the viscosity index, the more VII used in the engine oil production. But the downside about VII addictive is the VII molecule structure breaks down as the mileage gathers. That is why when a 10w30 engine oil when new will be reduced to 10w20 or even 10w10 when approaching 5,000km.

That above context is only applicable for mineral engine oils and differs for synthetic oil. Early days synthetic engine oil is made from organic materials usually not derived from crude petroleum, the common material being PAO. As the technology of refining petroleum gets hi-tech, oil makers now can derive synthetic quality oil out of crude petroleum from a process called hydrocracking. Hydrocracked oil are better quality than mineral oil, and its quality comes close to those of PAO origin synthetic oil. Synthetic oil usually are very well refined oil (muscularly stable) and relatively stable, they doesn't degrade as fast as mineral oil and therefore it doesn't need the usage of VII and since there is no longer reliance on VII, synthetic oils generally lasts longer (10,000km and above).

Semi-synthetic engine oil, as the name suggest, is a combination of both mineral oil with VII addictive with a portion of synthetic oil. Usually in 70:30 or 65:35 ratio, depending on the engine oil company blend. Due to the fact it still have VII, therefore, semi synthetic engine oils usually lasts up to 5,000kmn-7,000 km, depending on the blend of synthetic oil.

0w30, 5w30 and 10w30 all shares the same viscosity (SAE30) during operating temperature. What differentiate them is the condition (fluidity) of the engine oil during cold weather (0F/-17C), hence the different W ratings [0w, 5w, 10w]. Due to the weather condition in Malaysia, all engine oil will stay fluid all the time. That is why, it doesn't matter if one would use 5w30 or 0w30. All of them as long as conform to SAE30 specification, then it can be used.

Dont let your fear of voiding warranty rob off your common sense.
TSazlan83
post Jun 21 2012, 11:45 AM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 21 2012, 08:06 AM)
It has come to our general consensus that the engineers at Proton has recommended engine oil of at least SAE 10w30 and above. But, what does those numbers really means? It means that the oil has conformed to SAE10W specifications in winter testing (-17 degrees celcius) and conformed to SAE30 ratings during operating temperature (100 degrees Celsius). The 10w reflects the fluidity of the engine oil during winter temperature which determines the ability to crank the engine and keep it properly lubricated at the first crank of the engine. However, due to our ambient temperature which is constantly around 22~35 degrees Celsius there are no issues of engine oil getting crystallized. Therefore, the SAE10w part can be ignored for most of the users in our market.   

In conclusion, it is safe to say that the chart serves only as a reference for users which experience cold weather (4 seasons) or countries which has all long cold weather. Users who experience all round summer like us can use whatever engine oil in the market, as long as it is a minimum of SAE30, regardless of 0w, 5w, 10w, 15w or 20w.
*
I agree...but remember API SL above... SM or latest SN

This post has been edited by azlan83: Jun 21 2012, 12:39 PM
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 21 2012, 12:52 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 21 2012, 11:45 AM)
I agree...but remember API SL above... SM or latest SN
*
We are discussing about the viscosity, not the API.

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post Jun 21 2012, 01:31 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 21 2012, 12:52 PM)
We are discussing about the viscosity, not the API.
*
I know but the manual just say API SL above...so for sharing more grade suitable...i use 10w40 syntium 800 API SM can service after 10000km i think laaa...as my kelisa also 10000km service API SM haha....more save money
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 21 2012, 02:05 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 21 2012, 01:31 PM)
I know but the manual just say API SL above...so for sharing more grade suitable...i use  10w40 syntium 800 API SM can service after 10000km i think laaa...as my kelisa also 10000km service API SM haha....more save money
*
According to the oil chart, 10W and above is OK but, like I said, very strangely not 5W.

Regarding SM. I prefer SL.

klate
post Jun 21 2012, 02:08 PM

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Below link can explain to some of the questions post here.

http://www.ehow.com/about_6312890_motor-oi...0-vs_-5w30.html

http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/which-30-weight-oil.php

AMSOIL 0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 synthetic motor oils are ALL 30 weight oils. The answer is that ANY one can be used regardless of the vehicle owners manual recommendation. To better understand, in a 5W-30 oil, the "W" stands for winter performance. In winter weather the 0W oil will flow like a 0W oil, and the 5W will flow like a 5W oil and a 10W will flow like a 10W oil just until the engine warms up. This multi-grade performance allows faster oil flow during cold start, however when the oil warms up, they all reach the designated 30 weight viscosity.

In order to understand the differences one has to first understand that the numerical values given to these various weight oils are strictly empirical numbers. For example, 0W does not mean that the oil has no weight. That is one of the reasons why we say it is strictly an empirical number.

In order to determine the differences between the three oils one has to look at the kinematic viscosity of each lubricant. The kinematic viscosity is essentially the amount of time, in centistokes, that it takes for a specified volume of lubricant to flow through a fixed diameter orifice at a given temperature.

Let's compare the kinematic viscosity of the three AMSOIL lubricants

AMSOIL 0W30 is 57.3 cST @ 40 °C, & 11.3 cST @ 100 °C
AMSOIL 5W30 is 59.5 cST @ 40 °C, & 11.7 cST @ 100 °C
AMSOIL 10W30 is 66.1 cST @ 40 °C, & 11.7 cST @ 100 °C

As you can see from the data above the kinematic viscosities are extremely close. Therefore, whether you use the 0W-30, 5W-30 or the 10W-30 is strictly a matter of choice. With the small differences in kinematic viscosity you would be hard-pressed to detect these differences on initial engine start-up without specialized engine test equipment.

All three oils are excellent motor oils and ANY one can be used in a vehicle which requires either a 0W-30, 5W-30 or 10W-30 oil as well as in several other engine applications including an engine which recommends a 5W- 20 oil.


This leads to the next topic: many people also ask us if the 0W-30 is too thin a viscosity oil for high ambient temperature operation. The answer is absolutely not! Thicker viscosity oils are not always necessarily better since in addition to its' various engine lubrication functions, an oil must also effectively transfer heat. Only about 60% of an engines cooling is performed by the engine coolant, and only on the upper half of the engine. The remaining 40% of an engines cooling is performed mainly by the engine oil.

Although a vehicle that is recommended to use a 30 weight oil can also use a 40 weight oil, it is usually not needed. You will gain absolutely no benefit from using a thicker viscosity oil if it is not needed. The only time we recommend a 40 weight oil, such as AMSOIL's 10W-40, to a customer in a passenger car or light truck application is if the vehicle's engine is excessively worn and consumes oil at a higher than normal rate or if the vehicle is being used for very severe duty, high load, high temperature applications.


In summary: The above article comfirm to V12compressor summary
QUOTE
"That is why, it doesn't matter if one would use 5w30 or 0w30. All of them as long as conform to SAE30 specification, then it can be used. "


However personally I tend to agree that the higher number would be better for Malaysia hot climax smile.gif

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 21 2012, 02:19 PM
brotan
post Jun 21 2012, 02:24 PM

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My SA called me. the car already in showroom rclxm9.gif

Maybe can get the car tonight or latest tomorrow
V12Kompressor
post Jun 21 2012, 02:24 PM

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Regarding API ratings, it is only a general rule to govern the type of engine oil can be used for the consumer market. Normal consumer who isn't very knowledgeable about engine oil can always refer to API ratings when deciding which to choose for their car. The latest one is API SN, which was introduced not long ago. For engine oil with API SM onwards, there are slight revision, in which engine oil producer requires to add certain additives to protect the vehicle's catalytic converter (protects the environment at the same time).

All API rating engine oils are backward compatible, meaning SN can be used on a car requires API SJ or even SC, SD but not the opposite. A car which requires API SL onwards, means it can only take engine oil with rating of API SL, SM and SN.


Added on June 21, 2012, 2:28 pm
QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 21 2012, 01:31 PM)
I know but the manual just say API SL above...so for sharing more grade suitable...i use  10w40 syntium 800 API SM can service after 10000km i think laaa...as my kelisa also 10000km service API SM haha....more save money
*
syntium 800 is a semi synthetic oil and therefore not very recommended to stretch it till 10,000km. Chances are, the oil is already a 10w20 when it hits 7,000km. For the rest of 3,000km, the engine is actually receiving half the amount of protection and lubrication it needed.

This post has been edited by V12Kompressor: Jun 21 2012, 02:30 PM
TSazlan83
post Jun 21 2012, 03:21 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 21 2012, 02:24 PM)
Regarding API ratings, it is only a general rule to govern the type of engine oil can be used for the consumer market. Normal consumer who isn't very knowledgeable about engine oil can always refer to API ratings when deciding which to choose for their car. The latest one is API SN, which was introduced not long ago. For engine oil with API SM onwards, there are slight revision, in which engine oil producer requires to add certain additives to protect the vehicle's catalytic converter (protects the environment at the same time).

All API rating engine oils are backward compatible, meaning SN can be used on a car requires API SJ or even SC, SD but not the opposite. A car which requires API SL onwards, means it can only take engine oil with rating of API SL, SM and SN.


Added on June 21, 2012, 2:28 pm

syntium 800 is a semi synthetic oil and therefore not very recommended to stretch it till 10,000km. Chances are, the oil is already a 10w20 when it hits 7,000km. For the rest of 3,000km, the engine is actually receiving half the amount of protection and lubrication it needed.
*
Noted...
2die4
post Jun 21 2012, 03:21 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 21 2012, 02:24 PM)
My SA called me. the car already in showroom  rclxm9.gif

Maybe can get the car tonight or latest tomorrow
*
congrats bro... finally.... thumbup.gif
have fun with it...
brotan
post Jun 21 2012, 03:26 PM

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QUOTE(2die4 @ Jun 21 2012, 03:21 PM)
congrats bro... finally.... thumbup.gif
have fun with it...
*
tx bro

hope i don't see all the problems brought up here. finger crossed icon_rolleyes.gif
brotan
post Jun 21 2012, 05:34 PM

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btw, is the security system installed enough? i guess not

any recommendation of security system that not so easily tampered with?

tx
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 21 2012, 05:42 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 21 2012, 02:24 PM)
Regarding API ratings, it is only a general rule to govern the type of engine oil can be used for the consumer market. Normal consumer who isn't very knowledgeable about engine oil can always refer to API ratings when deciding which to choose for their car. The latest one is API SN, which was introduced not long ago. For engine oil with API SM onwards, there are slight revision, in which engine oil producer requires to add certain additives to protect the vehicle's catalytic converter (protects the environment at the same time).

All API rating engine oils are backward compatible, meaning SN can be used on a car requires API SJ or even SC, SD but not the opposite. A car which requires API SL onwards, means it can only take engine oil with rating of API SL, SM and SN.


Added on June 21, 2012, 2:28 pm

syntium 800 is a semi synthetic oil and therefore not very recommended to stretch it till 10,000km. Chances are, the oil is already a 10w20 when it hits 7,000km. For the rest of 3,000km, the engine is actually receiving half the amount of protection and lubrication it needed.
*
In the past, yes, newer API rating are backward compatible. But nowadays, not necessarily correct. For example: for a car with flat valve tappet, SL is definitely better than SM to avoid engine failure.

Type of oil, Mineral or Semi or Synthetic, has absolutely no bearing on OCI. All must have same OCI. I would like to see a article in black & white saying otherwise.

klate
post Jun 21 2012, 06:07 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 21 2012, 05:42 PM)
In the past, yes, newer API rating are backward compatible. But nowadays, not necessarily correct. For example: for a car with flat valve tappet, SL is definitely better than SM to avoid engine failure.

Type of oil, Mineral or Semi or Synthetic, has absolutely no bearing on OCI. All must have same OCI. I would like to see a article in black & white saying otherwise.
*
If you guys don't mind lets address the viscosity and API rating discussion seperately to avoid confusion smile.gif.

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 21 2012, 06:11 PM
V12Kompressor
post Jun 21 2012, 06:53 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 21 2012, 05:42 PM)
Type of oil, Mineral or Semi or Synthetic, has absolutely no bearing on OCI. All must have same OCI. I would like to see a article in black & white saying otherwise.
*
As I mentioned earlier, it has got to do with Viscosity Index Improver.

I am very sure this isn't the first time you questioned someone about type of engine oil and its OCI and you have been shown tons of articles at the very first Exora Bold thread (which you subsequently ignore).

Your ignorance is not only contagious to the exora bold community, but seems to be spreading to preve community also.

Likewise, this discussion could only be continued if you manage to come to your clear sense.

This post has been edited by V12Kompressor: Jun 21 2012, 06:56 PM
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 21 2012, 07:09 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 21 2012, 06:53 PM)
As I mentioned earlier, it has got to do with Viscosity Index Improver.

I am very sure this isn't the first time you questioned someone about type of engine oil and its OCI and you have been shown tons of articles at the very first Exora Bold thread (which you subsequently ignore).

Your ignorance is not only contagious to the exora bold community, but seems to be spreading to preve community also.

Likewise, this discussion could only be continued if you manage to come to your clear sense.
*
I have show you tons of article in black & white saying you are absolutely wrong on "Synthetic last 10K and Mineral 5K" nonsense.

So I am waiting for you to show me, a black & white article, saying I am wrong instead. How's that for a deal? If you can't, you should stop telling lies. I bet you are a Synthetic oil salesman out to make a fast buck for keep telling lies.


I quote "To offset the higher cost of synthetic oil, some of the oil companies claim you can run the oil longer between changes. They say you do not have to change the oil every 3,000 miles. Valvoline does not make that claim. McClanahan says, "The additives in synthetics are superior but they still break down at the same rate and you need to replenish them often. We are unaware of any additive package that lasts longer than what the manufacturer recommends. Those 10,000-mile claims are ludicrous."


http://www.buzzle.com/articles/synthetic-o...e-interval.html

http://www.kitcarmag.com/techarticles/synt...tech/index.html
klate
post Jun 21 2012, 07:28 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 21 2012, 07:09 PM)
I have show you tons of article in black & white saying you are absolutely wrong on "Synthetic last 10K and Mineral 5K" nonsense.


http://www.buzzle.com/articles/synthetic-o...e-interval.html

http://www.kitcarmag.com/techarticles/synt...tech/index.html
*
Some result from provided link above

Synthetic vs. Mineral Oil

The only basic difference between synthetic oil and mineral oil, apart from its manufacture and origin, is the molecular and particulate structure of both the lubricants. Synthetic oil being a perfected product, has a very even and uniform structuring of molecules and particulates. On the other hand, mineral oil contains uneven and less uniform molecules as compared to synthetic oil. Now, when the car, engine, piston and piston block is new, it is always advisable to use, mineral oil. The uneven molecular structure of mineral oil makes the uneven surfaces of the components and auto parts rub with each other and erode, thus making the surface even and smooth . This is very useful, as the young components of the engine get into shape and adapt to the mechanism. As the engine grows older, the components, get into shape and start running swiftly without any friction. This is where one should start using synthetic oil. This oil basically keeps the engine in shape and helps in increasing the durability of the engine.

There are several other advantages and disadvantages of synthetic oils as well as mineral oils. Going into the details is pretty difficult and complex. The argument, about which is better, is almost as old as the time since they were found, and is getting more and more complex due to the advancements that are being integrated in lubrication.
By Scholasticus K


And this is what I get from this link http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1...nventional-oils

Service Life
A popular topic concerning the difference between mineral oils and synthetic lubricants is service life. Synthetic lubricants as a class don't show their age, particularly at high temperatures, and have a longer service life. [B]Often, the change interval is several times longer for synthetics at identical operating temperatures; however, the exact number depends on operating conditions, the additives and the specific synthetic used.

Synthetic lubricants have a lower friction coefficient in a gearbox, better film strength and a better relationship between viscosity and temperature (viscosity index, VI). This indicates synthetic lubricants can be used at lower viscosity grades and lower temperatures. When this is the case, the gap between the service lives of minerals and synthetics significantly increases.

Related to the oil change interval is the issue of product loss through evaporation and disposal. Both sludge and residue form more readily with mineral oil products. Evaporative losses are lower for synthetics due to the lack of lighter hydrocarbon structures. Disposal is more costly with some synthetics, but it is nowhere near enough to compensate for change-out intervals that are three to five times more frequent.

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 21 2012, 07:43 PM
karlbum
post Jun 21 2012, 07:50 PM

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10k vs 5k? easy... at 5k whatever oil you are using.. check the dipstick.... then u need to decide lah.. continue or change..

with my vios, i change at 10k all the way and toyota neither promotes nor discourages this. i know because if i dont tell them to put in fully they sometimes put in semi. and after using semi for 10k i believe TMO fully synthetic is better for 10k interval as i had some deterioration in car performance when using their semi for 10k.. so i believe 5k or 10k depends on too many variables including how u drive and maybe also the oil being used.

p/s: my mechanic recommends 8k for TMO fully btw tongue.gif ahahah
zaidi
post Jun 21 2012, 08:03 PM

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QUOTE(karlbum @ Jun 21 2012, 07:50 PM)
10k vs 5k? easy... at 5k whatever oil you are using.. check the dipstick.... then u need to decide lah.. continue or change..

with my vios, i change at 10k all the way and toyota neither promotes nor discourages this. i know because if i dont tell them to put in fully they sometimes put in semi. and after using semi for 10k i believe TMO fully synthetic is better for 10k interval as i had some deterioration in car performance when using their semi for 10k..  so i believe 5k or 10k depends on too many variables including how u drive and maybe also the oil being used.

p/s:  my mechanic recommends 8k for TMO fully btw tongue.gif ahahah
*
I think people / mechanic suggests based on experience. So far the generic rule - 5k mineral, 7k semi, 10k full-synt.

on my waja, i'm using Shell Semi blue bottle, and this rule does apply. on normal driving, it clock 7.5l/100km. now I just missed last oil change at 7k, FC had worsened 8.9l/100.

not sure how exora will fair but, i'll stick to the general rule, eventhough there's no article/wiki/testing/sirim suggesting this.
brotan
post Jun 21 2012, 08:24 PM

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hi guys

got my car just now

wanna ask. after switch off engine, got the wwwrrrrr.... sound for about 3 min then only shut off

the SA said the fan still running to cool the engine

normal kah?
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 21 2012, 08:27 PM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 21 2012, 07:28 PM)
Some result from provided link above

Synthetic vs. Mineral Oil

The only basic difference between synthetic oil and mineral oil, apart from its manufacture and origin, is the molecular and particulate structure of both the lubricants. Synthetic oil being a perfected product, has a very even and uniform structuring of molecules and particulates. On the other hand, mineral oil contains uneven and less uniform molecules as compared to synthetic oil. Now, when the car, engine, piston and piston block is new, it is always advisable to use, mineral oil. The uneven molecular structure of mineral oil makes the uneven surfaces of the components and auto parts rub with each other and erode, thus making the surface even and smooth . This is very useful, as the young components of the engine get into shape and adapt to the mechanism. As the engine grows older, the components, get into shape and start running swiftly without any friction. This is where one should start using synthetic oil. This oil basically keeps the engine in shape and helps in increasing the durability of the engine.

There are several other advantages and disadvantages of synthetic oils as well as mineral oils. Going into the details is pretty difficult and complex. The argument, about which is better, is almost as old as the time since they were found, and is getting more and more complex due to the advancements that are being integrated in lubrication.
By Scholasticus K
And this is what I get from this link  http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1...nventional-oils

Service Life
A popular topic concerning the difference between mineral oils and synthetic lubricants is service life. Synthetic lubricants as a class don't show their age, particularly at high temperatures, and have a longer service life. [B]Often, the change interval is several times longer for synthetics at identical operating temperatures; however, the exact number depends on operating conditions, the additives and the specific synthetic used.

Synthetic lubricants have a lower friction coefficient in a gearbox, better film strength and a better relationship between viscosity and temperature (viscosity index, VI). This indicates synthetic lubricants can be used at lower viscosity grades and lower temperatures. When this is the case, the gap between the service lives of minerals and synthetics significantly increases.

Related to the oil change interval is the issue of product loss through evaporation and disposal. Both sludge and residue form more readily with mineral oil products. Evaporative losses are lower for synthetics due to the lack of lighter hydrocarbon structures. Disposal is more costly with some synthetics, but it is nowhere near enough to compensate for change-out intervals that are three to five times more frequent.
*
Yes, Synthetic BASE OIL last longer than Mineral BASE OIL. Nobody dispute that.

But Synthetic ENGINE OIL does not last longer than Mineral ENGINE OIL. Not the same thing if you think about it more carefully. This is where many people got mislead thinking BASE OIL and ENGINE OIL are the same. They are NOT!

ENGINE OIL contains:
1. Base oil. Synthetic last longer & more stable and more slippery etc than Mineral.
2. Additives. The additives in BOTH Synthetic ENGINE oil and Mineral ENGINE OIL are the same and need to be changed AT THE SAME TIME.

To recap, the reason why you need to change engine oil is because ADDITIVES had been depleted, not because Base Oil has gone bad. Read the link I gave you earlier.

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 21 2012, 08:30 PM
klate
post Jun 21 2012, 10:36 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 21 2012, 08:27 PM)
Yes, Synthetic BASE OIL last longer than Mineral BASE OIL. Nobody dispute that.

But Synthetic ENGINE OIL does not last longer than Mineral ENGINE OIL. Not the same thing if you think about it more carefully. This is where many people got mislead thinking BASE OIL and ENGINE OIL are the same. They are NOT!

ENGINE OIL contains:
1. Base oil. Synthetic last longer & more stable and more slippery etc than Mineral.
2. Additives. The additives in BOTH Synthetic ENGINE oil and Mineral ENGINE OIL are the same and need to be changed AT THE SAME TIME.

To recap, the reason why you need to change engine oil is because ADDITIVES had been depleted, not because Base Oil has gone bad. Read the link I gave you earlier.
*
Actually I don't want to lock in a rat hole with you. Because you are right base on your understanding.

Honestly I becoming more confuse with your WORD EQUATION. It is either you really confuse, or you try to confuse others by playing with the WORD or you are right and I'm confuse smile.gif

Anyway we are Exora bold owners .... rather than debating on something that may put us apart let focus on Exora related. We can still debate but pls don't be too strong unless we are really sure of that. I'm not the expert on the o engine oil technology but my knowledge build on my understanding after reading the original article from the WEB (including from the link in your post) my understanding from the article is 180' different from yours. So its not about the article but the way we understand the article smile.gif

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 21 2012, 10:41 PM
V12Kompressor
post Jun 21 2012, 10:42 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 21 2012, 07:09 PM)
I have show you tons of article in black & white saying you are absolutely wrong on "Synthetic last 10K and Mineral 5K" nonsense.

So I am waiting for you to show me, a black & white article, saying I am wrong instead. How's that for a deal? If you can't, you should stop telling lies. I bet you are a Synthetic oil salesman out to make a fast buck for keep telling lies.
*
start to accept the truth and stop being childish. Just because I mentioned about synthetic and all the facts presented obviously goes the opposite of your misconceptions, then you just conclude I am a synthetic oil salesman trying to make a quick buck? Just because one has knowledge in one field doesn't mean that field is his career. As Confucius said "I hear and I forget. I read and I remember. I do and I understand".

This whole debate is getting pointless. My act of caring and sharing thought isn't appreciated but instead get accused of spreading lies. So much for a community which gathers to share info. You just continue use your Mach 5 la. Only time will prove who is right and wrong from now onwards.
Shah's
post Jun 21 2012, 11:35 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 21 2012, 08:24 PM)
hi guys

got my car just now

wanna ask. after switch off engine, got the wwwrrrrr.... sound for about 3 min then only shut off

the SA said the fan still running to cool the engine

normal kah?
*
Yes my man, its normal CFE behavior...

BTW enjoy your new ride.... EB CFE rocks notworthy.gif

PS, I've got back my car after SC replaced the OWV and OCV and now my engine feels smoother than before, Today morning, no more KOKOK sound when i cold start my engine.. YAY rclxm9.gif
karlbum
post Jun 21 2012, 11:58 PM

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good for u shah...!! enjoy the newly refurbished engine hehehe biggrin.gif
V12Kompressor
post Jun 21 2012, 11:58 PM

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QUOTE(Shah's @ Jun 21 2012, 11:35 PM)
Yes my man, its normal CFE behavior...

BTW enjoy your new ride.... EB CFE rocks  notworthy.gif

PS, I've got back my car after SC replaced the OWV and OCV and now my engine feels smoother than before, Today morning, no more KOKOK sound when i cold start my engine.. YAY  rclxm9.gif
*
berapa lama sadai kat workshop? 3 days?
amd2105
post Jun 22 2012, 02:17 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 21 2012, 08:24 PM)
hi guys

got my car just now

wanna ask. after switch off engine, got the wwwrrrrr.... sound for about 3 min then only shut off

the SA said the fan still running to cool the engine

normal kah?
*
yeah, irritating at first but now got used to it sweat.gif btw what color is yours?
klate
post Jun 22 2012, 05:49 AM

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QUOTE(Shah's @ Jun 21 2012, 11:35 PM)
Yes my man, its normal CFE behavior...

BTW enjoy your new ride.... EB CFE rocks  notworthy.gif

PS, I've got back my car after SC replaced the OWV and OCV and now my engine feels smoother than before, Today morning, no more KOKOK sound when i cold start my engine.. YAY  rclxm9.gif
*
Good to hear that .... hopefully it the issue gone for good for you to really enjoy the ride.

QUOTE
Brotan...

hi guys

got my car just now

wanna ask. after switch off engine, got the wwwrrrrr.... sound for about 3 min then only shut off

the SA said the fan still running to cool the engine

normal kah?


Congratulation on your new ride....
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 22 2012, 06:31 AM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 21 2012, 10:36 PM)
Anyway we are Exora bold owners .... rather than debating on something that may put us apart let focus on Exora related. We can still debate but pls don't be too strong unless we are really sure of that. I'm not the expert on the o engine oil technology but my knowledge build on my understanding after reading the original article from the WEB (including from the link in your post) my understanding from the article is 180' different from yours. So its not about the article but the way we understand the article  smile.gif
*
I would love to debate on which part of that article makes us interpret it differently. Would be easier if you can cut&paste and quote.


Added on June 22, 2012, 6:38 am
QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 21 2012, 10:42 PM)
This whole debate is getting pointless. My act of caring and sharing thought isn't appreciated but instead get accused of spreading lies. So much for a community which gathers to share info. You just continue use your Mach 5 la. Only time will prove who is right and wrong from now onwards.
*
No, you are not if you are spreading untruth. To me, saying "Synthetic Engine Oil can last 10K and Mineral Engine Oil can last 5K" is similar to saying "The earth is flat". That is a disservice and misleading others. I basically hate misinformation.

If these quotes from a major oil company Valvoline and a major manufacturer Volvo doesn't convince you, I don't know what does. Please read..

Volvoline oil manufacturer: "To offset the higher cost of synthetic oil, some of the oil companies claim you can run the oil longer between changes. They say you do not have to change the oil every 3,000 miles. Valvoline does not make that claim. McClanahan says, "The additives in synthetics are superior but they still break down at the same rate and you need to replenish them often. We are unaware of any additive package that lasts longer than what the manufacturer recommends. Those 10,000-mile claims are ludicrous."


Volvo engine manufacturer Synthetic oils do not allow further extension of oil drain intervals. It is the contamination rate, i.e., soot, and the depletion of additives, rather than base oil quality that determines the useful engine oil life and therefore the oil change intervals.

http://www.kitcarmag.com/techarticles/synt...tech/index.html
http://www.volvo.com/NR/rdonlyres/F5ACF6EC...omponentsVT.pdf

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 22 2012, 06:47 AM
klate
post Jun 22 2012, 06:41 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 22 2012, 06:31 AM)
I would love to debate on which part of that article makes us interpret it differently. Would be easier if you can cut&paste and quote.


Thanks for invitation but I'm not interested to lock in debate at this moment.... I would rather be in discussion, sharing and collaboration.... cheers.

May be a little bit of conclusion from me related to Syn Vs Mineral.... but I try to be nutral since I'm not the expert so I won't make any stand for others to follow.

QUOTE
Synthetic vs. Mineral Oil
The only basic difference between synthetic oil and mineral oil, apart from its manufacture and origin, is the molecular and particulate structure of both the lubricants. Synthetic oil being a perfected product, has a very even and uniform structuring of molecules and particulates. On the other hand, mineral oil contains uneven and less uniform molecules as compared to synthetic oil. Now, when the car, engine, piston and piston block is new, it is always advisable to use, mineral oil. The uneven molecular structure of mineral oil makes the uneven surfaces of the components and auto parts rub with each other and erode, thus making the surface even and smooth . This is very useful, as the young components of the engine get into shape and adapt to the mechanism. As the engine grows older, the components, get into shape and start running swiftly without any friction. This is where one should start using synthetic oil. This oil basically keeps the engine in shape and helps in increasing the durability of the engine.

There are several other advantages and disadvantages of synthetic oils as well as mineral oils. Going into the details is pretty difficult and complex. The argument, about which is better, is almost as old as the time since they were found, and is getting more and more complex due to the advancements that are being integrated in lubrication.
By Scholasticus K


Even the expert admitted that the argument about which is better is ........ so who am I to debate this matters with you.

To take the best and be on the save side (but of course an expensive proposal), use fully synt and change it every 5k km smile.gif .

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 22 2012, 08:49 AM
cocodemon
post Jun 22 2012, 09:07 AM

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some update. my eb finally got a problem today.
the reverse camera failed, after just 1 month.
oredi called sc, tomoro will sent for check
brotan
post Jun 22 2012, 09:35 AM

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QUOTE(amd2105 @ Jun 22 2012, 02:17 AM)
yeah, irritating at first but now got used to it  sweat.gif btw what color is yours?
*
tx bro. at first i was scared got some engine problem and will blow up shocking.gif . haha

mine is silver bro and complaining directly to i-care really helps. even the i-care person called me on my chassis allocation before my SA does . hehe


Added on June 22, 2012, 9:36 am
QUOTE(klate @ Jun 22 2012, 05:49 AM)
Congratulation on your new ride....
*
tx fro

This post has been edited by brotan: Jun 22 2012, 09:36 AM
brotan
post Jun 22 2012, 09:45 AM

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To share my 1st experience (not review lah, not car expert) of my EB after driving for a short while (only from showroom to my home + home to office. total i think about 20 min)

All I can say is the ride is smooth and so far no big complain. Reverse camera works well. Thumbs up for Proton icon_rolleyes.gif

Just 1 complain (not sure this is normal or not). would appreciate your comment

when reversing, it seems not responsive at first when pedal is pressed. feel like need to press a bit harder compare to moving forward. any idea?


All in all, satisfied with my ride (so far biggrin.gif)

btw, regarding the engine knocking sound complained by other forumer, I did try to pay attention on this but I didn't notice any so far. maybe still new or proton fixed it

also regarding loud engine sound, i think it is quite ok. got the "whistling" type of sound when driving. i don't find it annoying, quite pleasant anyway. but i will still put the firewall lah (already bought it)

P.S. I haven't have a chance to drive more than 80km/h yet. will test it tomorrow
amd2105
post Jun 22 2012, 10:46 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 22 2012, 09:45 AM)
To share my 1st experience (not review lah, not car expert) of my EB after driving for a short while (only from showroom to my home + home to office. total i think about 20 min)

All I can say is the ride is smooth and so far no big complain. Reverse camera works well. Thumbs up for Proton  icon_rolleyes.gif

Just 1 complain (not sure this is normal or not). would appreciate your comment

when reversing, it seems not responsive at first when pedal is pressed. feel like need to press a bit harder compare to moving forward. any idea?
All in all, satisfied with my ride (so far biggrin.gif)

btw, regarding the engine knocking sound complained by other forumer, I did try to pay attention on this but I didn't notice any so far. maybe still new or proton fixed it

also regarding loud engine sound, i think it is quite ok. got the "whistling" type of sound when driving. i don't find it annoying, quite pleasant anyway. but i will still put the firewall lah (already bought it)

P.S. I haven't have a chance to drive more than 80km/h yet. will test it tomorrow
*
Good to know that you are satisfied with your EB biggrin.gif To be frank i only have the issue of throttle response when the car start to move forward. Its kinda jerking at first but i don't think its a big issue anyway as all i do is apply the proper pressure on the pedal so voila, you are on the move.

Once in a while when you are stuck in a congested road, you can feel the car jerking a bit but i guess its normal laugh.gif
The excitement starts when the rpm shifted to 2000 and above, have a try (its addictive tongue.gif)
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 22 2012, 10:55 AM

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QUOTE(amd2105 @ Jun 22 2012, 10:46 AM)
Good to know that you are satisfied with your EB    biggrin.gif To be frank i only have the issue of throttle response when the car start to move forward. Its kinda jerking at first but i don't think its a big issue anyway as all i do is apply the proper pressure on the pedal so voila, you are on the move.
No jerking. Just reluctant to move for 1/2 or 1 second or so then everything OK. Even if you step on the pedal.


brotan
post Jun 22 2012, 11:05 AM

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QUOTE(amd2105 @ Jun 22 2012, 10:46 AM)
Good to know that you are satisfied with your EB    biggrin.gif To be frank i only have the issue of throttle response when the car start to move forward. Its kinda jerking at first but i don't think its a big issue anyway as all i do is apply the proper pressure on the pedal so voila, you are on the move.

Once in a while when you are stuck in a congested road, you can feel the car jerking a bit but i guess its normal laugh.gif
The excitement starts when the rpm shifted to 2000 and above, have a try (its addictive tongue.gif)
*
the 2000rpm when turbo kicks in? haha

haven't got a chance to try becuz short distance ride so far. will try tomorrow going back my mum place (PJ -> Cheras)
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 22 2012, 11:07 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 22 2012, 11:05 AM)
the 2000rpm when turbo kicks in? haha

haven't got a chance to try becuz short distance ride so far. will try tomorrow going back my mum place (PJ -> Cheras)
*
Turbo boost comes in around 1500 rpm and that's why you get good pickup from stationary. Maximum torque comes in at 2000 rpm.

brotan
post Jun 22 2012, 11:10 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 22 2012, 11:07 AM)
Turbo boost comes in around 1500 rpm and that's why you get good pickup from stationary. Maximum torque comes in at 2000 rpm.
*
wow, that's nice (i mean the kicking in of turbo early)

i must admit. After a few seconds i press the pedal, i feel like taking space shuttle and zooming into outer space. rofl

need to adjust myself so that i don't bump the front car. hehe

This post has been edited by brotan: Jun 22 2012, 11:11 AM
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 22 2012, 11:14 AM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 22 2012, 06:41 AM)
Thanks for invitation but I'm not interested to lock in debate at this moment.... I would rather be in discussion, sharing and collaboration....  cheers.

May be a little bit of conclusion from me related to Syn Vs Mineral.... but I try to be nutral since I'm not the expert so I won't make any stand for others to follow.
Even the expert admitted that the argument about which is better is ........  so who am I to debate this matters with you.

To take the best and be on the save side (but of course an expensive proposal), use fully synt and change it every 5k km  smile.gif .
*
Like many people, you are getting mixed up on 2 things. BASE oil and ENGINE oil. They are not the same.

All expert agrees Synthetic Base Oil is generally superior to Mineral Base Oil. Enough people had already posted about it.

But you have to remember, nobody put pure Base Oil inside their car engine. Doing so will 100% void your warranty.



amd2105
post Jun 22 2012, 11:27 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 22 2012, 10:55 AM)
No jerking. Just reluctant to move for 1/2 or 1 second or so then everything OK. Even if you step on the pedal.
*
Oic, always skeptic with cars that behaves like this, good to know its not serious smile.gif
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 22 2012, 11:40 AM

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I read the Preve got 5 years warranty. How come Bold only 3 years?
brotan
post Jun 22 2012, 12:42 PM

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btw, just notice the aircond flow seems to be not smooth

feels like some time the wind flow change then go back to normal

is this normal?
Shah's
post Jun 22 2012, 12:56 PM

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QUOTE(karlbum @ Jun 21 2012, 11:58 PM)
good for u shah...!! enjoy the newly refurbished engine hehehe biggrin.gif
*
blush.gif


TSazlan83
post Jun 22 2012, 12:56 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 22 2012, 12:42 PM)
btw, just notice the aircond flow seems to be not smooth

feels like some time the wind flow change then go back to normal

is this normal?
*
normal bro...depens on compressor on off
Shah's
post Jun 22 2012, 12:58 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 22 2012, 12:42 PM)
btw, just notice the aircond flow seems to be not smooth

feels like some time the wind flow change then go back to normal

is this normal?
*
Never have this kind of issue though..

edited: Ohh is the compressor thing, I thought all cars are like that wan, am I right? hmm.gif

BTW azlan83, since you are here, please update the owner list lah Bro.

Mine is EB Elegant Brown CFE, 04 APR 12 cool2.gif

This post has been edited by Shah's: Jun 22 2012, 01:01 PM
brotan
post Jun 22 2012, 02:10 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 22 2012, 10:55 AM)
No jerking. Just reluctant to move for 1/2 or 1 second or so then everything OK. Even if you step on the pedal.
*
Just went back to the sa for something else and mention to him about the lag

He said this is safety feature because some people not used to the high power of exora

But he said the response time can be adjusted to be instant power if you wish to, meaning no lag

This post has been edited by brotan: Jun 22 2012, 02:20 PM
klate
post Jun 22 2012, 02:32 PM

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Manage to drive mine today .... confirm the alignment is Good.

Still no problem with the car, and love it. I just remove the middle single seat for easy path to the back seat.
adijb
post Jun 22 2012, 02:41 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 21 2012, 08:24 PM)
hi guys

got my car just now

wanna ask. after switch off engine, got the wwwrrrrr.... sound for about 3 min then only shut off

the SA said the fan still running to cool the engine

normal kah?
*
Congratulation brotan. Enjoy your new ride with your family.

Need to remind azlan83 to upgrade you in the front page smile.gif

V12Kompressor
post Jun 22 2012, 02:47 PM

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QUOTE(adijb @ Jun 22 2012, 02:41 PM)
Congratulation brotan. Enjoy your new ride with your family.

Need to remind azlan83 to upgrade you in the front page smile.gif
*
you mean update?

sweat.gif
brotan
post Jun 22 2012, 02:48 PM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 22 2012, 02:32 PM)
Manage to drive mine today .... confirm the alignment is Good.

Still no problem with the car, and love it. I just remove the middle single seat for easy path to the back seat.
*
true. just now i try the alignment. don't have the swirl left as reported earlier


Added on June 22, 2012, 2:50 pm
QUOTE(adijb @ Jun 22 2012, 02:41 PM)
Congratulation brotan. Enjoy your new ride with your family.

Need to remind azlan83 to upgrade you in the front page smile.gif
*
thx bro.

This post has been edited by brotan: Jun 22 2012, 02:50 PM
Turbocrazy
post Jun 22 2012, 02:53 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 22 2012, 11:10 AM)
wow, that's nice (i mean the kicking in of turbo early)

i must admit. After a few seconds i press the pedal, i feel like taking space shuttle and zooming into outer space. rofl

need to adjust myself so that i don't bump the front car. hehe
*
Ya, my dad told me, during his time in the 80's, when volvo had their first turbo cars, they gave
training to those who wish to test drive so that they won't bump the front cars.. laugh.gif laugh.gif

Enjoy ur car, bro.. icon_rolleyes.gif
brotan
post Jun 22 2012, 03:04 PM

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QUOTE(Turbocrazy @ Jun 22 2012, 02:53 PM)
Ya, my dad told me, during his time in the 80's, when volvo had their first turbo cars, they gave
training to those who wish to test drive so that they won't bump the front cars.. laugh.gif  laugh.gif

Enjoy ur car, bro.. icon_rolleyes.gif
*
tx bro. but i think not so easy to bump becuz they introduce the lag after you press pedal only power come out

next time i go proton service, i will ask them to adjust instant power. icon_rolleyes.gif
Shah's
post Jun 22 2012, 03:04 PM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 22 2012, 02:32 PM)
Manage to drive mine today .... confirm the alignment is Good.

Still no problem with the car, and love it. I just remove the middle single seat for easy path to the back seat.
*
Wowo, you really can do that??? mind taking a pic drool.gif

This post has been edited by Shah's: Jun 22 2012, 03:05 PM
amd2105
post Jun 22 2012, 03:19 PM

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QUOTE(Shah's @ Jun 22 2012, 12:58 PM)
Never have this kind of issue though..

edited: Ohh is the compressor thing, I thought all cars are like that wan, am I right? hmm.gif

BTW azlan83, since you are here, please update the owner list lah Bro.

Mine is EB Elegant Brown CFE, 04 APR 12  cool2.gif
*
Yeah, please update me as well smile.gif

EB Elegant Brown CFE, 15th June 12 biggrin.gif
rapidbumi
post Jun 22 2012, 03:22 PM

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it seems like Exora was the first vehicle with VT3 gear box... read more about it here- http://forum.autoworld.com.my/index.php?sh...ic=103354&st=10
adijb
post Jun 22 2012, 03:37 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 22 2012, 02:47 PM)
you mean update?

sweat.gif
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Err... I meant upgrade as being from booked list to owner list... smile.gif

This post has been edited by adijb: Jun 22 2012, 03:37 PM
V12Kompressor
post Jun 22 2012, 03:41 PM

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QUOTE(adijb @ Jun 22 2012, 03:37 PM)
Err... I meant upgrade as being from booked list to owner list... smile.gif
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emmm... ic ic
adijb
post Jun 22 2012, 04:04 PM

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QUOTE(rapidbumi @ Jun 22 2012, 03:22 PM)
it seems like Exora was the first vehicle with VT3 gear box... read more about it here- http://forum.autoworld.com.my/index.php?sh...ic=103354&st=10
*
Thanks for sharing the link, rapidbumi. Lots of interesting info on the cvt. I have never driven a cvt car before.

brotan
post Jun 22 2012, 05:37 PM

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btw, is the stock security system good enough? if not, what would you recommend?
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 22 2012, 05:47 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 22 2012, 05:37 PM)
btw, is the stock security system good enough? if not, what would you recommend?
*
You don't want to mess around with that. Doing so will void your warranty and with Proton, you sure must be prepared for warranty work especially with new model.

Shah's
post Jun 22 2012, 06:43 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 22 2012, 05:37 PM)
btw, is the stock security system good enough? if not, what would you recommend?
*
I was once like you when I've got my car, trying to argue with Proton icare about going to install locktech pedal lock system. As I said that the system will not cut the original wire, but they said that it will still void the warranty because you'll be messing around with the fuse connections...duhh doh.gif

This post has been edited by Shah's: Jun 22 2012, 06:44 PM
brotan
post Jun 22 2012, 06:46 PM

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QUOTE(Shah's @ Jun 22 2012, 06:43 PM)
I was once like you when I've got my car, trying to argue with Proton icare about going to install locktech pedal lock system. As I said that the system will not cut the original wire, but they said that it will still void the warranty because you'll be messing around with the fuse connections...duhh doh.gif
*
so just leave it as it is? good enough?
Shah's
post Jun 22 2012, 06:56 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 22 2012, 06:46 PM)
so just leave it as it is? good enough?
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nod.gif
TSazlan83
post Jun 22 2012, 07:40 PM

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Anyone who want to add in owner or booking list please PM me... nickname|colour|date received/booking.|location

sorry if anyone miss up but just PM me ok...hehe

This post has been edited by azlan83: Jun 22 2012, 07:41 PM
zaidi
post Jun 22 2012, 09:01 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 22 2012, 06:46 PM)
so just leave it as it is? good enough?
*
I think should suffice adding pedal lock like the autolock.
brotan
post Jun 22 2012, 09:30 PM

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QUOTE(zaidi @ Jun 22 2012, 09:01 PM)
I think should suffice adding pedal lock like the autolock.
*
Shah said pedal lock also will break warranty
zaidi
post Jun 22 2012, 09:39 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 22 2012, 09:30 PM)
Shah said pedal lock also will break warranty
*
I think the ones that break warranty is the permanent ones. they tap to the wiring to signal the alarm.

the removable ones should be OK.
http://www.megacell.com.my/products/1440.asp

On EB do we need to press the brake before we can put the car to D? I think this is true on Preve.
brotan
post Jun 23 2012, 08:51 AM

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QUOTE(zaidi @ Jun 22 2012, 09:01 PM)
I think should suffice adding pedal lock like the autolock.
*
thx bro

Just feel insecure since those high end japanese car (camry, accord) also easily kena steal, I thought proton should be easier
TSazlan83
post Jun 23 2012, 04:16 PM

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QUOTE(zaidi @ Jun 22 2012, 09:39 PM)
I think the ones that break warranty is the permanent ones. they tap to the wiring to signal the alarm.

the removable ones should be OK.
http://www.megacell.com.my/products/1440.asp

On EB do we need to press the brake before we can put the car to D? I think this is true on Preve.
*
Yes on EB also need to press brake before can move from P to D...I think to use stering lock only...what can do... There are many way they can steel the car...my fren golf gti...towing by other car... No need to start enjin...haha very clever
Turbocrazy
post Jun 23 2012, 04:32 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 23 2012, 04:16 PM)
Yes on EB also need to press brake before can move from P to D...I think to use stering lock only...what can do... There are many way they can steel the car...my fren golf gti...towing by other car... No need to start enjin...haha very clever
*
I dun think steering lock can help, its so easy. I kena already, when I heard neighbour dogs barking outside,
switch on the light, hilux parking at road side, check n found out that my steering wheel has been sawn & the
lock been removed. So, for my EB I dun care much liao.. juz fixed the Locktech 1 st week got the car..


Added on June 23, 2012, 4:37 pmGuys what do u guys think abT the EB seat, for short distance, its ok.. but for long journey, my buttock ache la... Too hard..

This post has been edited by Turbocrazy: Jun 23 2012, 04:37 PM
brotan
post Jun 23 2012, 04:41 PM

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QUOTE(Turbocrazy @ Jun 23 2012, 04:32 PM)
I dun think steering lock can help, its so easy. I kena already, when I heard neighbour dogs barking outside,
switch on the light, hilux parking at road side, check n found out that my steering wheel has been sawn & the
lock been removed. So, for my EB I dun care much liao.. juz fixed the Locktech 1 st week got the car..


Added on June 23, 2012, 4:37 pmGuys what do u guys think abT the EB seat, for short distance, its ok.. but for long journey, my buttock ache la... Too hard..
*
What about pedal lock?
Turbocrazy
post Jun 23 2012, 04:45 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 23 2012, 04:41 PM)
What about pedal lock?
*
Well, I think its a good choice if u dun mind having trouble removing & finding a place keeping it..


Added on June 23, 2012, 4:47 pmBtw how much the pedal lock cost??

This post has been edited by Turbocrazy: Jun 23 2012, 04:47 PM
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 23 2012, 05:08 PM

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QUOTE(Turbocrazy @ Jun 23 2012, 04:32 PM)
Guys what do u guys think abT the EB seat, for short distance, its ok.. but for long journey, my buttock ache la... Too hard..
*
Good news. It means you can eat as much as you like to put more fat under your buttock for cushioning. Great excuse to now eat without restraint.


Turbocrazy
post Jun 23 2012, 07:40 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 23 2012, 05:08 PM)
Good news. It means you can eat as much as you like to put more fat under your buttock for cushioning. Great excuse to now eat without restraint.
*
haha.. tat wud be a good excuse.. no wonder ladies din complaint abt tis..
But by adding a piece of thin cusion actually helps.. icon_rolleyes.gif
klate
post Jun 23 2012, 10:43 PM

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QUOTE(Shah's @ Jun 22 2012, 03:04 PM)
Wowo, you really can do that??? mind taking a pic drool.gif
*
Shah, No need picturelah, it is plain simple, just loosen the 4 bolts holding the seat (2 under the seat and 2 from front - you need to remove the plastic covering the nut first). BUt the sight is not nice since the design is very simple, the 4 naked bolts will expose and am thinking to buy a carpet to cover the seat base.
zaidi
post Jun 23 2012, 11:41 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 22 2012, 11:40 AM)
I read the Preve got 5 years warranty. How come Bold only 3 years?
*
If I am not mistaken 3yrs is from proton, then extended warranty 2 years covered by bank. At least this is what I remember talking to the salesman.

extended warranty to 150k km or 5 years. anyone has this on their ride?


Added on June 23, 2012, 11:46 pmRefer here; http://www.proton-edar.com.my/After-Sales/...d-warranty.aspx

We can't miss service at PE for Extended Warranty Program

This post has been edited by zaidi: Jun 23 2012, 11:46 PM
brotan
post Jun 23 2012, 11:54 PM

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QUOTE(zaidi @ Jun 23 2012, 11:41 PM)
If I am not mistaken 3yrs is from proton, then extended warranty 2 years covered by bank. At least this is what I remember talking to the salesman.

extended warranty to 150k km or 5 years. anyone has this on their ride?


Added on June 23, 2012, 11:46 pmRefer here; http://www.proton-edar.com.my/After-Sales/...d-warranty.aspx

We can't miss service at PE for Extended Warranty Program
*
meaning now exora 5 yrs warranty?
zaidi
post Jun 24 2012, 12:07 AM

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This is the basic costing for servicing EB CFE at PE SC.
http://www.proton-edar.com.my/pdf/procareP...xora%20Bold.pdf

Summary:
Summary removed. Many wrong assumptions tongue.gif better check with you SC.

But the high cost should come at 60k and 120k.

What spark plug does Proton use? Rm100 for 1 spark plug?

This post has been edited by zaidi: Jun 24 2012, 12:29 AM
TSazlan83
post Jun 24 2012, 05:21 AM

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QUOTE(zaidi @ Jun 24 2012, 12:07 AM)
This is the basic costing for servicing EB CFE at PE SC.
http://www.proton-edar.com.my/pdf/procareP...xora%20Bold.pdf

Summary:
Summary removed. Many wrong assumptions tongue.gif better check with you SC.

But the high cost should come at 60k and 120k.

What spark plug does Proton use? Rm100 for 1 spark plug?
*
Good now got additional 2 years...EWP also ok...hehe 3+2 =5 ....

exora use iridium spark plug. that why costly...
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 24 2012, 06:52 AM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 24 2012, 05:21 AM)
Good now got additional 2 years...EWP also ok...hehe 3+2 =5 ....

exora use iridium spark plug. that why costly...
*
You sure? I asked and was told only 3 yrs and no EWP. So when does 5 yrs start?

I think it is better to change CVT fluid at 30K instead of 60K. That is based on friend who had CVT car who suggested half the interval.

akchang
post Jun 24 2012, 07:56 AM

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rm100 perpiece spark plugs? holycow! better use the silver spark plug at that price range. better then iridium.
DinKnight
post Jun 24 2012, 09:45 AM

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Anybody heard of any special Raya offer for Bold CFE?
mynewuser
post Jun 24 2012, 10:54 AM

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don't buy exora bold. too many complain from users.
TSazlan83
post Jun 24 2012, 11:14 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 24 2012, 06:52 AM)
You sure? I asked and was told only 3 yrs and no EWP. So when does 5 yrs start?

I think it is better to change CVT fluid at 30K instead of 60K. That is based on friend who had CVT car who suggested half the interval.
*
this is new...before this only 3 years...after that it will submit your servis record before get EWP...i experience it with perodua...usually the addtional warranty cover by insurance company...so ok laaa....proton got this program.


Added on June 24, 2012, 11:21 am
QUOTE(akchang @ Jun 24 2012, 07:56 AM)
rm100 perpiece spark plugs? holycow! better use the silver spark plug at that price range. better then iridium.
*
yeah very expensive...you can try other spark plug...but usually can not, if can tell me lah.... biggrin.gif
what i know that, this spark plug can last longer...my fren use until 100000km but still not problem
60000km i will not changes. first will open see the condition...haha...


This post has been edited by azlan83: Jun 24 2012, 11:21 AM
mat79
post Jun 24 2012, 11:22 AM

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spark plug price is perset, 4 units, not 1 spark plug.
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 24 2012, 11:23 AM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 24 2012, 11:14 AM)
this is new...before this only 3 years...after that it will submit your servis record before get EWP...i experience it with perodua...usually the addtional warranty cover by insurance company...so ok laaa....proton got this program.
You need to double confirm. I had asked and was told for Exroa EWP is no available. Only 3 yrs.

mat79
post Jun 24 2012, 11:24 AM

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cvt oil n filter, normal usage 60k km, severe 40k km. Hope this help. Severe condition explanation as per service book mentioned.
TSazlan83
post Jun 24 2012, 11:25 AM

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QUOTE(mynewuser @ Jun 24 2012, 10:54 AM)
don't buy exora bold. too many complain from users.
*
i buy and use for almost 2 month already...no problem thumbup.gif .Now odo 4000km plus...
no complaint....be positive to your car...and it will serve you better. biggrin.gif
majuperak
post Jun 24 2012, 11:44 AM

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Hi all, just came back from test drive yesterday, Exora Bold premium CVT ..... power is ok, handling ok, looks ok from outside, inside as usual proton quality and seats are hard ....... hmmm

My current Livina 1.6A Luxury .... the leather seats are much nicer and comfortable.
brotan
post Jun 24 2012, 11:55 AM

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will you guys consider to reduce the lag from pressing pedal to when power is available?

the SA said can be done and won't void warranty but must be done at Proton service centre lah
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 24 2012, 12:36 PM

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QUOTE(majuperak @ Jun 24 2012, 11:44 AM)
Hi all, just came back from test drive yesterday, Exora Bold premium CVT ..... power is ok, handling ok, looks ok from outside, inside as usual proton quality and seats are hard ....... hmmm

My current Livina 1.6A Luxury .... the leather seats are much nicer and comfortable.
*
Pro and cons. Lavina NVH is better. Seats are comfortable like sofa. Exora seat are "German" in character meaning it is hard but not uncomfortable.

But Exora has air cond vent for ALL 3 rows and to some people, air cond is very important. Exora outside look better than the bread-loaf-like Lavina


zaidi
post Jun 24 2012, 06:38 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 24 2012, 05:21 AM)
Good now got additional 2 years...EWP also ok...hehe 3+2 =5 ....

exora use iridium spark plug. that why costly...
*
Are there any additional benefits of the iridium? I mean I rather change normal spark plugs every 20k at RM50 (total Rm150 at 60km) than spending RM400 at once at 60k. Beside, if we have example dead piston rings at 30k, and we are forced to change spark plugs as well. The initial investment now gone.

QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 24 2012, 06:52 AM)
You sure? I asked and was told only 3 yrs and no EWP. So when does 5 yrs start?

I think it is better to change CVT fluid at 30K instead of 60K. That is based on friend who had CVT car who suggested half the interval.
*
check with Service Center for the EWP and how to qualify. I was told need to be endorsed by bank before we could do EWP

QUOTE(mynewuser @ Jun 24 2012, 10:54 AM)
don't buy exora bold. too many complain from users.
*
if you work at service center and heard this complaint please share. no cars are perfect. we just need to live with what we have and learn how to overcome. last time people are saying waja got many problems. yet mine served me 10 good years, only 1 time breakdown due to fuel filter after 250km on odo.

QUOTE(mat79 @ Jun 24 2012, 11:22 AM)
spark plug price is perset, 4 units, not 1 spark plug.
*
no, cost for part is 400, means around 100 each plug. check the pdf.

QUOTE(mat79 @ Jun 24 2012, 11:24 AM)
cvt oil n filter, normal usage 60k km, severe 40k km. Hope this help. Severe condition explanation as per service book mentioned.
*
I think just follow the service booklet if want to be in warranty. really how do we determine 'severe'. If we occasionally use the car for long distance but maintain good speed 120-130kmph I don't think it's severe enough.

QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 24 2012, 11:55 AM)
will you guys consider to reduce the lag from pressing pedal to when power is available?

the SA said can be done and won't void warranty but must be done at Proton service centre lah
*
I think only applicable for early batches. read from kristof at AW, newer batches got upgraded already.
TSazlan83
post Jun 24 2012, 07:21 PM

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[quote=zaidi,Jun 24 2012, 06:38 PM]
Are there any additional benefits of the iridium? I mean I rather change normal spark plugs every 20k at RM50 (total Rm150 at 60km) than spending RM400 at once at 60k. Beside, if we have example dead piston rings at 30k, and we are forced to change spark plugs as well. The initial investment now gone.
check with Service Center for the EWP and how to qualify. I was told need to be endorsed by bank before we could do EWP
if you work at service center and heard this complaint please share. no cars are perfect. we just need to live with what we have and learn how to overcome. last time people are saying waja got many problems. yet mine served me 10 good years, only 1 time breakdown due to fuel filter after 250km on odo.
no, cost for part is 400, means around 100 each plug. check the pdf.
I think just follow the service booklet if want to be in warranty. really how do we determine 'severe'. If we occasionally use the car for long distance but maintain good speed 120-130kmph I don't think it's severe enough.
I think only applicable for early batches. read from kristof at AW, newer batches got upgraded already.
*


The spark plugs actually for high combustion engine...my uncle once try normal spark plug for his 1.8 gsr turbo....cannot...the engine become weird batuk2....haha...use until the spark plug kong aaa...very costly
akchang
post Jun 24 2012, 09:46 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 24 2012, 11:55 AM)
will you guys consider to reduce the lag from pressing pedal to when power is available?

the SA said can be done and won't void warranty but must be done at Proton service centre lah
*
i do not understand what do you meant reduce the lag when pressing pedal? my exorabold is from May 2012 consider 1st batch?

This post has been edited by akchang: Jun 24 2012, 09:46 PM
brotan
post Jun 24 2012, 09:50 PM

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QUOTE(akchang @ Jun 24 2012, 09:46 PM)
i do not understand what do you meant reduce the lag when pressing pedal? my exorabold is from May 2012 consider 1st batch?
*
when you press the pedal, the power seems to kick in to move your car after a very short while unlike most car you get instant power

was told by SA this one can be tweak to be like normal car to have instant power when pedal is pressed
majuperak
post Jun 25 2012, 12:22 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 24 2012, 12:36 PM)
Pro and cons. Lavina NVH is better. Seats are comfortable like sofa. Exora seat are "German" in character meaning it is hard but not uncomfortable.

But Exora has air cond vent for ALL 3 rows and to some people, air cond is very important. Exora outside look better than the bread-loaf-like Lavina
*
I'd agree feature wise looks better, for the price of 80k you get reverse camera and dvd player, leather seats, air cond vent for all rows ..... but quality is not that good lar.

Dun get me wrong .... I am seriously thinking of buying exora bold cvt ..... Livina is a great car but smaller in size that's all. That is why I am in this forum .... my issue is the reliability, seems to have problems judging from various forums on exora bold cvt ......

At first wanted to get Altis 1.8E .... but size not enough, that's why now considering Exora Bold CVT ...... value for money it seems. I have gotten my WWWxxxx plate since 8 June and have not decided yet ......
I will keep my Livina and need another ride ....

So need some feedback and advise icon_question.gif
jemmi
post Jun 25 2012, 08:24 AM

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So need some feedback and advise.

Last time I also like you, compare Livina with Exora Campro, but now with CFE & CVT my target is clear. Already order Exora CFE since mid Mei, still waiting.

I heard waiting list for Exora coming to 3 months. Proton quality now improved not many major problem but still struggle with small problem like power windows now settle after 25 years. We need be patient with proton, hopefully take over by Hicom will improve everything. Our nation hope!
klate
post Jun 25 2012, 08:55 AM

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Update on my fuel consumption driving from PG to KL and back with 3 adults + 4 kids. Note the fuel consumption is base on the build in meter which I reset before the trip.

Current mileage is ~3300km.
If going ~110km/h consumption is ~7.9l/100
If going ~140km/h is ~9.9l/100

My average speed from KL-PG is betwen 140-160km/h and average fuel is 10.1l/100km. Push to 175km/h for cpl occasions.

The car feel stable at 140-160km/h. The fact kids can still enjoy wathing the DVD at the back keeping them quiet further comfirm the comfort level thus meet my expectation/need of buying this car. I'm happy with the power coming from this 1.6l engine, have no problem to accelerate from 130km/h to 160km/h. The noise level is not great but acceptable.

The aircond is definately cold. When traveling at night even with front blower set at 1, kids complain too cold and switch off the rear blower.

I purposely remove the 1 seater middle row seat, that give easy path to the rear seat as well as extra luggage space. If you arrange the luggage carefully (put a layer of comforter on top of soft luggage) kid can still use the space for one of them to sleep comfortably.

Have opportunity to drive 2008 estima while in KL. Comparing to Exora, it is expected that estima is more quiet, comfort to drive, bigger and nicer overall. However going back to Exora I don't miss alot. At least I feel exora size is just nice for family outing as well as don't feel too big for daily usage.

Overall driving experience was good and not very tiring. Start our journey from UIA gombak @ 6:45pm, total drive is 3 hrs from UIA Gombak to Juru Toll, add another 1 and half hr stop made at Bukit Gantang rest area to arrive home @ 11:30pm

My small wish
1. The Exora come with brighter head light (nice for going beyond 140kmh at night smile.gif )
2. The tapping signal is too short (5 blinks), would be nicer if it can be adjusted to say 15 blinks.

Overall very satisfied with my choice of the ride provided the MPV can stand the time test to maintain its good quality smile.gif

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 25 2012, 09:21 AM
sendoh_7
post Jun 25 2012, 09:10 AM

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Brighter headlights?

maybe can just chnage the bulb
brotan
post Jun 25 2012, 09:22 AM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 25 2012, 08:55 AM)


My small wish
1. The Exora come with brighter head light
2. The tapping signal is too short (5 blinks), would be nicer if it can be adjusted to say 15 blinks.

Overall very satisfied with my choice of the ride provided the MPV can stand the time test to maintain its good quality smile.gif
*
hi bro

i think the tapping of signal can adjust right? it is just some timer / counter

maybe can ask the service centre?
jemmi
post Jun 25 2012, 09:31 AM

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QUOTE(sendoh_7 @ Jun 25 2012, 09:10 AM)
Brighter headlights?

maybe can just chnage the bulb
*
Yup, just change the bulb with Osram Plus or Philips Vision refer: http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1879599&hl= thumbup.gif
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 25 2012, 09:51 AM

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QUOTE(jemmi @ Jun 25 2012, 08:24 AM)
So need some feedback and advise.

Last time I also like you, compare Livina with Exora Campro, but now with CFE & CVT my target is clear. Already order Exora CFE since mid Mei, still waiting.

I heard waiting list for Exora coming to 3 months. Proton quality now improved not many major problem but still struggle with small problem like power windows now settle after 25 years. We need be patient with proton, hopefully take over by Hicom will improve everything. Our nation hope!
*
There are still little nagging quality issues.
1. Dashboard got sound
2. Alignment is slightly off.
3. Once in a blue moon, there seem to be some grrrrrr sound from front suspension over pothole.
And this is from Day 1.

Things that are inherent, just the nature. Nothing you can do.
1. Below 60kph, car noisy full of whimming sound from CVT
Turbocrazy
post Jun 25 2012, 10:07 AM

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My small wish
1. The Exora come with brighter head light (nice for going beyond 140kmh at night smile.gif )
2. The tapping signal is too short (5 blinks), would be nicer if it can be adjusted to say 15 blinks.
3. Change position of the autocruise - at times fingers hitting while driving...


SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 25 2012, 10:22 AM

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QUOTE(Turbocrazy @ Jun 25 2012, 10:07 AM)
My small wish
3. Change position of the autocruise - at times fingers hitting while driving...
*
Your hands should be placed at the upper part of the steering wheel. So what is your hands doing down under? rclxub.gif


I did a little searching and found it interesting.
The traditional position is the 10-2 position.
With airbags, 9-3 is recommended so arm not caught by exploding air bags.
Some goes as far as 8-4. So I presume you are using this?

http://www.smartmotorist.com/driving-guide...ring-wheel.html

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 25 2012, 10:58 AM
mat79
post Jun 25 2012, 11:08 AM

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hi, sorry for wrong info earlier on spark plug. Just confirming that the iridium based is price as stated in pdf earlier @ rm 99+ perpiece. He mentioned not advisable using other type plugs coz not suitable for cfe n can void warranty. Yup, it is expensive, but 60k shud be around 2-3 years normal drive, but still depend on on how much mileage u cover peryear. If u are daring card member, iinm, u r entitle for 10% discount on parts as long u service ur car in prtn.My sincere appology then.


Added on June 25, 2012, 11:09 amhi, sorry for wrong info earlier on spark plug. Just confirming that the iridium based is price as stated in pdf earlier @ rm 99+ perpiece. He mentioned not advisable using other type plugs coz not suitable for cfe n can void warranty. Yup, it is expensive, but 60k shud be around 2-3 years normal drive, but still depend on on how much mileage u cover peryear. If u are daring card member, iinm, u r entitle for 10% discount on parts as long u service ur car in prtn.My sincere appology then.

This post has been edited by mat79: Jun 25 2012, 11:09 AM
2die4
post Jun 25 2012, 11:50 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 25 2012, 10:22 AM)
Your hands should be placed at the upper part of the steering wheel. So what is your hands doing down under? rclxub.gif
I did a little searching and found it interesting.
The traditional position is the 10-2 position.
With airbags, 9-3 is recommended so arm not caught by exploding air bags.
Some goes as far as 8-4. So I presume you are using this?

http://www.smartmotorist.com/driving-guide...ring-wheel.html
*
me also sometimes hitting the autocruise button esp when doing U turn.... so any position suitable when U turn... hmm.gif
Turbocrazy
post Jun 25 2012, 11:59 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 25 2012, 10:22 AM)
Your hands should be placed at the upper part of the steering wheel. So what is your hands doing down under? rclxub.gif
I did a little searching and found it interesting.
The traditional position is the 10-2 position.
With airbags, 9-3 is recommended so arm not caught by exploding air bags.
Some goes as far as 8-4. So I presume you are using this?

http://www.smartmotorist.com/driving-guide...ring-wheel.html
*
Yupe, I'm using 8-4 in the hi-way(esp in the straight line) Felt more n not so tiring..
My fingers hit the autocruise during cornering or making u turn..

Btw, thx for the info, bro...

This post has been edited by Turbocrazy: Jun 25 2012, 12:07 PM
majuperak
post Jun 25 2012, 10:23 PM

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QUOTE(jemmi @ Jun 25 2012, 08:24 AM)
So need some feedback and advise.

Last time I also like you, compare Livina with Exora Campro, but now with CFE & CVT my target is clear. Already order Exora CFE since mid Mei, still waiting.

I heard waiting list for Exora coming to 3 months. Proton quality now improved not many major problem but still struggle with small problem like power windows now settle after 25 years. We need be patient with proton, hopefully take over by Hicom will improve everything. Our nation hope!
*
Which dealer did you place booking ? or Proton Edar outlet ? Elegance Brown need to wait, Silver, Cocoa Grey, White within 1 mth .... what is the interest rate offer ? What is your discount ? Dealer give 1.5k .... Proton Edar no discount .....

Not sure will improve under DRB Hicom ... doh.gif
sendoh_7
post Jun 26 2012, 01:01 AM

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QUOTE(majuperak @ Jun 25 2012, 10:23 PM)
Which dealer did you place booking ? or Proton Edar outlet ? Elegance Brown need to wait, Silver, Cocoa Grey, White within 1 mth .... what is the interest rate offer ? What is your discount ? Dealer give 1.5k .... Proton Edar no discount .....

Not sure will improve under DRB Hicom ... doh.gif
*
red waiting list is....1 week laugh.gif
and i took it instead of silver..dunwan to wait till puasa time
jemmi
post Jun 26 2012, 08:07 AM

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QUOTE(majuperak @ Jun 25 2012, 10:23 PM)
Which dealer did you place booking ? or Proton Edar outlet ? Elegance Brown need to wait, Silver, Cocoa Grey, White within 1 mth .... what is the interest rate offer ? What is your discount ? Dealer give 1.5k .... Proton Edar no discount .....

Not sure will improve under DRB Hicom ... doh.gif
*
Booking at PJ Dealer, colour Elegance Brown, Discount 2K & rate 2.68%. Anyway I'm not rushing just hope not too late. Only problem my booking plate no already 2 weeks old.
klate
post Jun 26 2012, 08:52 AM

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QUOTE(jemmi @ Jun 26 2012, 08:07 AM)
Booking at PJ Dealer, colour Elegance Brown, Discount 2K & rate 2.68%. Anyway I'm not rushing just hope not too late. Only problem my booking plate no already 2 weeks old.
*
This is a very good deal ... My SA only promise me RM200 ( promise becauses I have not receive that smile.gif ). Which bank do you get 2.68%?.

The higest offer I got is RM800 discount.

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 26 2012, 08:54 AM
wezeer
post Jun 26 2012, 08:59 AM

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got mine yesterday cfe + white...(rm500 discount/5mil protective tints/additional alarm sensor/steering lock/full tank/plate no sand blast) and 2.85% HLB..

go for my 1st break in for 100km @ MEX..
not much issue to bring up so far...
cvt noise is acceptable..or maybe i can't differentiate the noise...even below 60kmh...
handling a bit to left...but i reckon it depends on road surface...tested at highway...a few occasion i released my both hands & can't remember the car go to the left...
quality wise...i'm impressed so far...above my expectation even though drove german's mark before...just to hold the impression towards reliability...hope it's well with me...



This post has been edited by wezeer: Jun 26 2012, 09:03 AM
jemmi
post Jun 26 2012, 09:21 AM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 26 2012, 08:52 AM)
This is a very good deal ... My SA only promise me RM200 ( promise becauses I have not receive that smile.gif ). Which bank do you get 2.68%?.

The higest offer I got is RM800 discount.
*
Al-Rajhi Bank Ampang.
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 26 2012, 09:44 AM

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QUOTE(majuperak @ Jun 25 2012, 10:23 PM)
Which dealer did you place booking ? or Proton Edar outlet ? Elegance Brown need to wait, Silver, Cocoa Grey, White within 1 mth .... what is the interest rate offer ? What is your discount ? Dealer give 1.5k .... Proton Edar no discount .....

Not sure will improve under DRB Hicom ... doh.gif
*
AFAIK, amount that much only applies to CPS model. No official discount for CFE unless the salesman want to give you his commission out of his own pocket but even then, no way 1.5K.
Turbocrazy
post Jun 26 2012, 10:19 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 26 2012, 09:44 AM)
AFAIK, amount that much only applies to CPS model. No official discount for CFE unless the salesman want to give you his commission out of his own pocket but even then, no way 1.5K.
*
Possible! My sis in-law booked a CFE unit two months ago, juz got her EB 3 day ago. She told me
the SA is her very close friend la.. According to her, every branch have RM2.6k to play around, woh..
(not so sure tho'...) And every 10 cars sold, they will get some bonus $$ from Proton..
As for me, I got RM800 bucks discount plus full tank, was booked in the month of Dis 2011 rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by Turbocrazy: Jun 26 2012, 10:22 AM
brotan
post Jun 26 2012, 10:27 AM

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QUOTE(Turbocrazy @ Jun 26 2012, 10:19 AM)
Possible! My sis in-law booked a CFE unit two months ago, juz got her EB 3 day ago. She told me
the SA is her very close friend la.. According to her, every branch have RM2.6k to play around, woh..
(not so sure tho'...) And every 10 cars sold, they will get some bonus $$ from Proton..
As for me, I got RM800 bucks discount plus full tank, was booked in the month of Dis 2011 rolleyes.gif
*
i personally got 1k discount from proton edar + full tank
Turbocrazy
post Jun 26 2012, 10:33 AM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 26 2012, 10:27 AM)
i personally got 1k discount from proton edar + full tank
*
You have done very well, bro.. Btw hows the sound deadening at the firewall going on??
brotan
post Jun 26 2012, 10:42 AM

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QUOTE(Turbocrazy @ Jun 26 2012, 10:33 AM)
You have done very well, bro.. Btw hows the sound deadening at the firewall going on??
*
haven't installed. haha

will update
rapidbumi
post Jun 27 2012, 03:08 PM

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going for second service this weekend... not sure whether to go back to mutiara dsara or go to PJ volcar at seapark or others... hmm whistling.gif
klate
post Jun 27 2012, 04:35 PM

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QUOTE(rapidbumi @ Jun 27 2012, 03:08 PM)
going for second service this weekend... not sure whether to go back to mutiara dsara or go to PJ volcar at seapark or others... hmm  whistling.gif
*
How is the car ... any problem?. Mine at 3.5k km, still no complain to make.


Added on June 27, 2012, 4:36 pm
QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 26 2012, 10:42 AM)
haven't installed. haha

will update
*
What sort of firewall? ... how it will improve the comfort level?


This post has been edited by klate: Jun 27 2012, 04:38 PM
brotan
post Jun 27 2012, 04:40 PM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 27 2012, 04:35 PM)
How is the car ... any problem?.  Mine at 3.5k km, still no complain to make.


Added on June 27, 2012, 4:36 pm

What sort of firewall? ... how it will improve the comfort level?
*
should improve noise insulation from engine
klate
post Jun 27 2012, 04:51 PM

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QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 27 2012, 04:40 PM)
should improve noise insulation from engine
*
Pls share your experience after installation..... thanks


Added on June 27, 2012, 4:52 pm
QUOTE(jemmi @ Jun 25 2012, 09:31 AM)
Yup, just change the bulb with Osram Plus or Philips Vision refer: http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1879599&hl=  thumbup.gif
*
Thanks for pointing to that forum. Just make an inquiery but no stock available for Exora ... anyone install and cara to share the experience?

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 27 2012, 04:52 PM
amd2105
post Jun 27 2012, 05:33 PM

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hi guys, just want to ask if you guys happen to do the 1st service (1000 kilo), do you need to make an appointment first with the SC or rather just bring your car to any SC and just get the service done? Went to Servis Mesra Bandar Baru Bangi yesterday but had to make an appointment first an they set the date on 7th July next month.
klate
post Jun 27 2012, 10:31 PM

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QUOTE(amd2105 @ Jun 27 2012, 05:33 PM)
hi guys, just want to ask if you guys happen to do the 1st service (1000 kilo), do you need to make an appointment first with the SC or rather just bring your car to any SC and just get the service done? Went to Servis Mesra Bandar Baru Bangi yesterday but had to make an appointment first an they set the date on 7th July next month.
*
It depend on the volume .... if no cars than no need appointment. But if you stay in crowded area I believe you definitely need to make an appointment first.

When I wanted to do the service in PG I need to make reservation more than a week, but when I went to KB, Kelantan the other day I just walk in to the service center early in the morning and within 5 minutes my car dock into their service bay already.

TSazlan83
post Jun 28 2012, 08:31 AM

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QUOTE(klate @ Jun 27 2012, 10:31 PM)
It depend on the volume .... if no cars than no need appointment. But if you stay in crowded area I believe you definitely need to make an appointment first.

When I wanted to do the service in PG I need to make reservation more than a week, but when I went to KB, Kelantan the other day I just walk in to the service center early in the morning and within 5 minutes my car dock into their service bay already.
*
Yes some place need to book...but for me i just call my SA and he will arrange it for me...no need to wait so long...last service just took 1 1/2 hour only...
cocodemon
post Jun 28 2012, 10:28 AM

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in my place (malacca), making appointment is useless. still need to folo the q. maybe becoz too many customer. took 3+ hrs

lesson learned -> never wait for the service. better asked someone to fetch me sad.gif
Trong-FC
post Jun 28 2012, 11:45 AM

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thinking to cancel my booking...
my friend (hire purchase officer) appointed his irresponsible SA friend's to take my order. last week was 2 months waiting for the cfe EB. no news and update from the branch or SA.

already called iCare n they told me maximum waiting time is 2 months not minimum 2 months...and they ask the branch to submit back all my booking order n loan approval date for reference and verification..and yesterday after the proton icare call the branch..the SA call me n start create a story blaming branch manager not push the proton to send the car la wat ever...and last thing the SA told me this week gonna be final week he working with the branch...he resign...but i just said no news from icare on friday i will cancel the order. i dont want to give your branch the sales. i also ask him to courier urgently my JPJ's slip for my WWW plate no coz i dont have a time to collect the slip from him since im not in KL for 2 weeks...this time no mercy...no need to pujuk2 or rayu2..

already call my friend at the bank and he say sorry to me..and ask me to change dealer/branch. just ask branch to fax the sales order from dealer/branch..the bank gonna arrange the payment to which branch i will getting my car using the same loan agreement once the car ready.i dont think proton branch or dealer have ready stock for brown CFE EB

so im thinking to cancel my booking and loan for this EB CFE if i cant get my car this saturday. maybe change my mind to ESTIMA or INNOVA after hari raya. takde jodoh kot dgn proton...hurmmmm
azzet
post Jun 28 2012, 12:08 PM

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QUOTE(Trong-FC @ Jun 28 2012, 11:45 AM)
thinking to cancel my booking...
my friend (hire purchase officer) appointed his irresponsible SA friend's to take my order. last week was 2 months waiting for the cfe EB. no news and update from the branch or SA.

already called iCare n they told me maximum waiting time is 2 months not minimum 2 months...and they ask the branch to submit back all my booking order n loan approval date for reference and verification..and yesterday after the proton icare call the branch..the SA call me n start create a story blaming branch manager not push the proton to send the car la wat ever...and last thing the SA told me this week gonna be final week he working with the branch...he resign...but i just said no news from icare on friday i will cancel the order. i dont want to give your branch the sales. i also ask him to courier urgently my JPJ's slip for my WWW plate no coz i dont have a time to collect the slip from him since im not in KL for 2 weeks...this time no mercy...no need to pujuk2 or rayu2..

already call my friend at the bank and he say sorry to me..and ask me to change dealer/branch. just ask branch to fax the sales order from dealer/branch..the bank gonna arrange the payment to which branch i will getting my car using the same loan agreement once the car ready.i dont think proton branch or dealer have ready stock for brown CFE EB

so im thinking to cancel my booking and loan for this EB CFE if i cant get my car this saturday. maybe change my mind to ESTIMA or INNOVA after hari raya. takde jodoh kot dgn proton...hurmmmm
*
Bro,

Mine already 3 months (undertaking letter dated 5/4/12)... just call icare yesterday and get same reply as yours... what to do!!! just waiting & hoping... suspect someone has cut queue... haiyaa... btw I also booked WWW...
wezeer
post Jun 28 2012, 12:19 PM

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i've got mine after 3 months...
waiting for solid white...been offered E.Brown twice....but rejected...
maybe u want to change branch and contact my SA..perhaps...got stock E.Brown...
do pm me if interested...who knows...
TSazlan83
post Jun 28 2012, 02:09 PM

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QUOTE(azzet @ Jun 28 2012, 12:08 PM)
Bro,

Mine already 3 months (undertaking letter dated 5/4/12)... just call icare yesterday and get same reply as yours... what to do!!! just waiting & hoping... suspect someone has cut queue... haiyaa... btw I also booked WWW...
*
Sorry to hear that...my fren his brother are branch manager...he say that it depend on the branch head to push proton to get the car...mine only wait 1month...last week they can get preve after 1week book...but take from yard no by lorry...potong que...aiyaaa
sendoh_7
post Jun 28 2012, 03:34 PM

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Hello hello..
just goy my plum red cfe today smile.gif
waiting only.for 2weeks..

emm got a bit wind noise coming frm the drivers door..hopefully this is the only complain i will be talking about hmm.gif
neo1point3
post Jun 28 2012, 06:25 PM

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OMG...until 2 or 3 months also got ah? shocking.gif

I wait mine for only less than 3 weeks, when cocoa grey colour just launched out. Mine is at Mutiara Damansara
Trong-FC
post Jun 28 2012, 09:18 PM

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just collect my WWW JPJ's slip from my SA...tomorrow gonna pass to setapak SA
i already change my dealer to setapak.
luckily they have 1 unit ready stock brown EB and i can see and touch the car. immediately i make a call to my friend at bank ask him to get ready at fax machines coz we want to fax the "change dealer" letter and vehicle sales order. so setapak SA register the chasis number for me and if everything goes fine i will getting my car this Tuesday..that 1 unit actually reserved to someone.but the customer still not pay for the booking fee & downpayment even his loan approved already..

today i take leave and pusing2 KL to find which proton branch have ready stock for CFE EB..i dont mind about the color anymore. setapak branch is 5th branch in my mission searching for ready stock CFE EB.huhuhuhu..
brotan
post Jun 28 2012, 09:35 PM

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QUOTE(Trong-FC @ Jun 28 2012, 09:18 PM)
just collect my WWW JPJ's slip from my SA...tomorrow gonna pass to setapak SA
i already change my dealer to setapak.
luckily they have 1 unit ready stock brown EB and i can see and touch the car. immediately i make a call to my friend at bank ask him to get ready at fax machines coz we want to fax the "change dealer" letter and vehicle sales order. so setapak SA register the chasis number for me and if everything goes fine i will getting my car this Tuesday..that 1 unit actually reserved to someone.but the customer still not pay for the booking fee & downpayment even his loan approved already..

today i take leave and pusing2 KL to find which proton branch have ready stock for CFE EB..i dont mind about the color anymore. setapak branch is 5th branch in my mission searching for ready stock CFE EB.huhuhuhu..
*
nice catch bro
sendoh_7
post Jun 28 2012, 09:37 PM

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QUOTE(Trong-FC @ Jun 28 2012, 09:18 PM)
just collect my WWW JPJ's slip from my SA...tomorrow gonna pass to setapak SA
i already change my dealer to setapak.
luckily they have 1 unit ready stock brown EB and i can see and touch the car. immediately i make a call to my friend at bank ask him to get ready at fax machines coz we want to fax the "change dealer" letter and vehicle sales order. so setapak SA register the chasis number for me and if everything goes fine i will getting my car this Tuesday..that 1 unit actually reserved to someone.but the customer still not pay for the booking fee & downpayment even his loan approved already..

today i take leave and pusing2 KL to find which proton branch have ready stock for CFE EB..i dont mind about the color anymore. setapak branch is 5th branch in my mission searching for ready stock CFE EB.huhuhuhu..
*
go for red plum bro

SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 28 2012, 09:42 PM

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QUOTE(Trong-FC @ Jun 28 2012, 09:18 PM)
just collect my WWW JPJ's slip from my SA...tomorrow gonna pass to setapak SA
i already change my dealer to setapak.
luckily they have 1 unit ready stock brown EB and i can see and touch the car. immediately i make a call to my friend at bank ask him to get ready at fax machines coz we want to fax the "change dealer" letter and vehicle sales order. so setapak SA register the chasis number for me and if everything goes fine i will getting my car this Tuesday..that 1 unit actually reserved to someone.but the customer still not pay for the booking fee & downpayment even his loan approved already..

today i take leave and pusing2 KL to find which proton branch have ready stock for CFE EB..i dont mind about the color anymore. setapak branch is 5th branch in my mission searching for ready stock CFE EB.huhuhuhu..
*
I had said before, some branch do have ready stock. Just have to check around. I got mine ex-stock that way.



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