fully-syn on old engine...today you fill...tomorrow @ day after dry already...

Maybe because of turbocharge...experienced with turbocharge car b4 (evo3) & recommended 10w instead of 0w...in my experience it really best when with 10w...

If too thin,(0W/30,5W/30), oil will boil inside your turbo
bearing. This will block further oil deliveries
to the turbo bearing (compressor & turbine).
& TC engine produce heat more than N/A. Afraid it will dried up the oil.

At the moment just follow as what in the manual. Those engineers (powertrain dept) already done some test with Borg Warner engineers & come up with the solution. Maybe they can disclose @ we can google our selves what the best & why 10w work best for TC engines.

This post has been edited by wezeer: Jun 11 2012, 11:25 AM

maybe those engineers do make sense...

hehehe i'm nor expert but shared from my previous experience...
while using 0-5w...noticed the EO level dried up faster than using 10w...maybe it's an old engine and turbine while produced 270whp...but then it do make sense when relate back to why they recommended 10w instead of thinner...

to add to your analysis, might consider reading this
http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/technical/u...gers/oil-facts/

i tend to more 'better wear protection' word on why they come out with 10w...
i got this from agpturbo site;

"If you have a standard bearing turbocharger: The loads produced on your standard bearing turbocharger’s rotating assembly require oils with high levels of ZDDP to adequately create a film between like metals. Standard bearing turbine shafts spin between bushings (bearings) and must have a constant film of oil in order for the components to survive. This is where choosing the right oil can make the difference. We have found that Brad Penn Grade 1 is one of the best and most cost effective oil out there. Other oils that we’ve found that contain the proper levels of ZDDP are Valvoline VR1 and VR1 Synthetic NSL, and Amsoil SAE Synthetic Premium Protection. We have also used Rotellla T6 synthetic oil with much success over the years.

Additionally, we advise using thicker viscosity in these brands of oil as the heat generated by high shaft speeds will break down thin 0W, 5W, and 10W oils and cause the oil to coke inside the turbo where oil temperatures can exceed 200 degrees F. Your standard bearing turbo will enjoy that you make the right choice. These are merely suggestions by us, because we have seen failures due to improper oil over the years. These types of oils may not contain the many of the detergents that most off the shelf oils have, thus you will need to change your oil more regularly than you’re used to. If you feel that the oils you run are sufficient, we would recommend having an oil analysis completed by Blackstone Labs."

This post has been edited by wezeer: Jun 11 2012, 11:49 AM

i do agree with u. but SUPPOSED is what in the theory..but theoretically they know better.

yes they are some turbo application recommended on 0w (such as gtr) but then different manufacturer different requirement...we might knew the basic theory on turbo application but in reality its beyond unless we involved in the development & testing phase...

btw 0w-30,5w-30,0w-40,5w-40 sit in same range...

no harm to trying on your machine...kindly please share with us on the end result... interested to know too...

gt radial made in chine meh ?? hehe

got mine yesterday cfe + white...(rm500 discount/5mil protective tints/additional alarm sensor/steering lock/full tank/plate no sand blast) and 2.85% HLB..

go for my 1st break in for 100km @ MEX..
not much issue to bring up so far...
cvt noise is acceptable..or maybe i can't differentiate the noise...even below 60kmh...
handling a bit to left...but i reckon it depends on road surface...tested at highway...a few occasion i released my both hands & can't remember the car go to the left...
quality wise...i'm impressed so far...above my expectation even though drove german's mark before...just to hold the impression towards reliability...hope it's well with me...



This post has been edited by wezeer: Jun 26 2012, 09:03 AM

i've got mine after 3 months...
waiting for solid white...been offered E.Brown twice....but rejected...
maybe u want to change branch and contact my SA..perhaps...got stock E.Brown...
do pm me if interested...who knows...

my update so far;

1) wind noise
2) driver seat rocking

do you monitor from your meter panel ? how much you got ?

hehehe i already use SAT in my 1st 100km...

can see the different on fc on highway mode...SAT more economic...

me too successfully added papago to lokatoo..easier..

sure cvt ? it's not related to drivetrain..or maybe autochoke issue?

In my findings..SAT give me good fc when on highway... As at today manage to get 11km/l highway 100%...8-9km/l urban...odo clocked 2k...

Hi brotan, ampang-kl area..the highest fc so far 8.2km/l.. Almost like the same with my previous 4G63T..
Not comparing direct with cvt..
Maybe I've got light foot I guess..
My driving style just press the pedal gradually..controlling the pedal to make sure turbine spooling gradually..especially when rpm 1800-2200..

Can share with us any photo bro?? Thx

Thanks bro..will try it..