Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Bump Topic Topic Closed RSS Feed
6 Pages  1 2 3 > » Bottom

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

 V1 Proton Exora Bold Owners and Fans Thread, Calling all owner and future one...

views
     
klate
post Jun 15 2012, 09:04 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
Hi .....

I'm new Exora bold user from Penang.... Book the car on ~May 15th and got to drive the car on 2nd June.

The Exora is an addition to my current ride - Toyota Unser and Volvo 850 T5 ... still haven't decide if will let go Unser or not
smile.gif .

My first impression of the Exora was .... Woww .... what a good deal for RM80k. Not bad for something coming from Proton, to be honost it is above my expectation for power, space, comfort and accessories ...could it be because I have low expectation for Proton in the first place?

I have not experience any of the problem that were discussed here. Touch wood, hopefully it will stay that way for long. If the car can stand next 3-5 years with normal wear and tear and no major problem then I'm very satisfied with my choice.

Have driven the car down to KL, back to Penang then To Kota Bharu and back to Penang. The ODO clocked ~2,300 km as of now. No complaint on the power and negotiating the bend on east-west hwy to Kota Bharu Kelantan. I can't drive per the highway limit @ 110 as it will be dangerous for me - becoming very SLEEPY, bUt I won't go beyond 160km either on MPV (I enjoy volvo @ 180). As long as I can cruise at 130-150 is good enough for me, which I feel the car is more than capable to do so with comfort and confident.

On the minus side I feel the car body is not very solid (safety wise), the paint is thin and the engine insulation can be better. HOwever to think otherwise I do enjoy the engine sound when pressing hard the peddle.

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 15 2012, 09:28 PM
klate
post Jun 16 2012, 06:24 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 16 2012, 06:21 AM)
Yap. Same here. My budget was RM160K but this Bold fits all my criteria at half the price so why not? Got it without bank loan but none of my friend could understand why I picked a Proton  shocking.gif

BTW, that 850T5 is a great car. I was shocked how come something that looks so big and bulky could be so nibble in handling.
*
Agree that 850T5 Wagon is a great car even even after 16 yrs elapse. It has been serving me well...what I like most it can carry 5 bicycle (MTB) 4 on the roof and 1 inside, if necessary it can still cruise the h/way @ 150 easily with all that loads.

I prefer 850T5 driving alone, but cannot beat the comfort of Exora when travel with family.
I was tossing between 2nd hand Cireon C8, Estima, Odyssey, Grandis, Rexton for quit a long time..... eventually end up with Exora after few test drive smile.gif. Feel that I have made a right decision. With RM90 roadtax, RM80k, and a new car it is a good trade off for some comfort that I would miss from a bigger MPV.

All above statement is true for now, yet to see/experience the Proton EB Quality and Reliability over time.

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 16 2012, 06:26 PM
klate
post Jun 17 2012, 06:57 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
QUOTE(Turbocrazy @ Jun 17 2012, 12:38 AM)
Yupe, they hv not fully solve this problem, mine is happening too, choking or like missed firing, only during idling..
Called up SC, they ask to try switch off the air-con - but also same...
Notice, if apply brake & engaged to "D" during idling, the choke stopped..
The choke always happened when the cooling fan stopped between intervals..  Haizz...!! shakehead.gif
*
I never felt this, I need to try simulate. So the engine will choke only during idling and in Nutral gear?. How frequent it happen?.

I also need be observe more on CVT noise < 60kmh .... honestly that thing did not bother me and none in my family point that out to me either. It is either I have high tolerance to the noise (Unser produce more noise) or it is really not that noisy and annoying.

So far the noise level is acceptable, a very quiet car can be boring to me. I like to hear/play with engine sound to keep me awake during long trip. What piss me off and mentally tired is car make loud engine sound but did not propels accordingly (like Unser)

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 17 2012, 08:01 AM
klate
post Jun 17 2012, 11:48 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
QUOTE(Turbocrazy @ Jun 17 2012, 11:08 PM)
I got my EB early Feb. Initial SC that I sent can't do it, so they sent to the main SC in Ipoh..


Added on June 17, 2012, 11:10 pm
My batch no is 78191
*
How to look for batch number?.

I start to pay more attention while driving to find out if there are any chocking or CVT noise symptom.

Chocking where RPM goes to 1k and 2k --> Never experience.

CVT Noise < 60kmp - I do notice my 16 year old Volvo is smoother and quieter at < 60kmp. Actually I feel the engine less smooth when driving < 40kmp, it feel like driving a manual car with whirling sound, In fact I have that feeling even during my test drive before buying the car. I can still tolerate the minor rough feeling at below 40km as long as car did not die or jerking badly.

I also experience twice where I need to crank twice and do a long cranking (like twice as long compare to normal crank) to start the engine.


klate
post Jun 18 2012, 12:13 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
QUOTE(doctor.AGF @ Jun 18 2012, 12:00 AM)
I just want to know why all exora pull to the left and no one is making noise
dont you people get annoyed from having to always hold the steering wheel tilted to the right to maintain straight driving???
*
I did try release the steering while driving on highway and feel the steering is balance and not obviously pulling to the right/left. Well let me try one more time to confirm. However I do feel small steering vibration at 130kmph
klate
post Jun 18 2012, 02:14 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
QUOTE(doctor.AGF @ Jun 18 2012, 08:13 AM)
K tq, Please PM your reply

Regards
*
It will be sometime when I have a chance, I like to drive my old car to work. The car will be with my wife most of the time smile.gif

As a side note ... my experience is iyou need to find a level road to really test it out else it is common to either pull to the right or left "slightly".... most likely to the left as our road normally lower on the left for water to flow during rainy.

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 18 2012, 02:33 PM
klate
post Jun 19 2012, 08:34 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
QUOTE(amd2105 @ Jun 19 2012, 09:28 AM)
Hy there, still new here. Just received my EB last friday, boy such a wonderful ride. Well i dunno where to address this but as some of the forumer mentioned here before, there was a rattling trrrrrr sound from behind once it hits small pot hole. Well i guess its not in the manual or maybe i'm just too tired to read the whole thing  sweat.gif

2ndly, the car will make a weird sound (as for CFE) once the engine was turned off, sounds like something is running in the engine, freaked at first but somebody told me that its normal for CFE. Is it normal? Just want to confirm this.

The last part, the rear dvd player really testing my patience as i've read everything in the manual (no dvd was tested yet). Plugged in the usb, the display shows the mp3 was on play mode but no sound, stucked at this point until today. Is there any cable or is there any other point that was missed during the process?

Is the front radio unit possibly "connected" via bluetooth or whatever wire "less" with the dvd player unit? Help me please  cry.gif
*
1. the trrrrrr sound when hitting pot hole -->Have not notice this, need to try out and observed
2. Weird sound when turn off engine --> Does it sound like FAN spinning?, if it is the fan than normal. Actually it does irritate me, don't understand why fan still running to cool the engine when engine off.
3. DVD player --> You need to sync the displayed channel on the Player with the FM radio (you can change default channel by pressing the green button on the remote). Make sure you use a channel that not occupied by any station. Alternatively you can run a wire from the DVD player head phone out into the AUX in on the radio then switch radio receiver MODE to AUX, the sound will be much clearer that way.
Note: Long press the "BAND" button to activate manual channel search.


Added on June 19, 2012, 8:36 pm
QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 19 2012, 10:54 AM)
Moving from standstill. There is a time lag of about 1 second after pressing accelerator before power comes in. You people have same issue?
*
I do Not notice any delay from stand still to moving. I heard this is common on Preve first batch but not on EB.

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 19 2012, 09:03 PM
klate
post Jun 20 2012, 09:36 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Jun 20 2012, 07:30 PM)
What is your mileage?

Mine during below 1000km fc is 12.6L/100km
1000-4000km fc is 11.8L/100km
Now at 6000km fc is 10.5L/100km

Full city driving
*
Do you reset the ave fuel meter for every step above?. If the latest 10.5l/100km @6000km is cumulative average from day one then the actual should be better than that. If i'm right the fuel consumption will be high at the beginning of the life and getting better over time before settle after > 5000km (2nd service).
klate
post Jun 21 2012, 06:20 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Jun 20 2012, 09:39 PM)
I never reset back since day one

Oh damn, 5000km need to send sc 2nd service ah?  ohmy.gif
mine already 6000km ++
*
Depending on the oil grade used, you can opt for 10k or 5k service interval.

To be more accurate try reset your ave meter ..... to reset, long press while the meter is being selected (blinking)

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 21 2012, 06:23 AM
klate
post Jun 21 2012, 02:08 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
Below link can explain to some of the questions post here.

http://www.ehow.com/about_6312890_motor-oi...0-vs_-5w30.html

http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/which-30-weight-oil.php

AMSOIL 0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 synthetic motor oils are ALL 30 weight oils. The answer is that ANY one can be used regardless of the vehicle owners manual recommendation. To better understand, in a 5W-30 oil, the "W" stands for winter performance. In winter weather the 0W oil will flow like a 0W oil, and the 5W will flow like a 5W oil and a 10W will flow like a 10W oil just until the engine warms up. This multi-grade performance allows faster oil flow during cold start, however when the oil warms up, they all reach the designated 30 weight viscosity.

In order to understand the differences one has to first understand that the numerical values given to these various weight oils are strictly empirical numbers. For example, 0W does not mean that the oil has no weight. That is one of the reasons why we say it is strictly an empirical number.

In order to determine the differences between the three oils one has to look at the kinematic viscosity of each lubricant. The kinematic viscosity is essentially the amount of time, in centistokes, that it takes for a specified volume of lubricant to flow through a fixed diameter orifice at a given temperature.

Let's compare the kinematic viscosity of the three AMSOIL lubricants

AMSOIL 0W30 is 57.3 cST @ 40 °C, & 11.3 cST @ 100 °C
AMSOIL 5W30 is 59.5 cST @ 40 °C, & 11.7 cST @ 100 °C
AMSOIL 10W30 is 66.1 cST @ 40 °C, & 11.7 cST @ 100 °C

As you can see from the data above the kinematic viscosities are extremely close. Therefore, whether you use the 0W-30, 5W-30 or the 10W-30 is strictly a matter of choice. With the small differences in kinematic viscosity you would be hard-pressed to detect these differences on initial engine start-up without specialized engine test equipment.

All three oils are excellent motor oils and ANY one can be used in a vehicle which requires either a 0W-30, 5W-30 or 10W-30 oil as well as in several other engine applications including an engine which recommends a 5W- 20 oil.


This leads to the next topic: many people also ask us if the 0W-30 is too thin a viscosity oil for high ambient temperature operation. The answer is absolutely not! Thicker viscosity oils are not always necessarily better since in addition to its' various engine lubrication functions, an oil must also effectively transfer heat. Only about 60% of an engines cooling is performed by the engine coolant, and only on the upper half of the engine. The remaining 40% of an engines cooling is performed mainly by the engine oil.

Although a vehicle that is recommended to use a 30 weight oil can also use a 40 weight oil, it is usually not needed. You will gain absolutely no benefit from using a thicker viscosity oil if it is not needed. The only time we recommend a 40 weight oil, such as AMSOIL's 10W-40, to a customer in a passenger car or light truck application is if the vehicle's engine is excessively worn and consumes oil at a higher than normal rate or if the vehicle is being used for very severe duty, high load, high temperature applications.


In summary: The above article comfirm to V12compressor summary
QUOTE
"That is why, it doesn't matter if one would use 5w30 or 0w30. All of them as long as conform to SAE30 specification, then it can be used. "


However personally I tend to agree that the higher number would be better for Malaysia hot climax smile.gif

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 21 2012, 02:19 PM
klate
post Jun 21 2012, 06:07 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 21 2012, 05:42 PM)
In the past, yes, newer API rating are backward compatible. But nowadays, not necessarily correct. For example: for a car with flat valve tappet, SL is definitely better than SM to avoid engine failure.

Type of oil, Mineral or Semi or Synthetic, has absolutely no bearing on OCI. All must have same OCI. I would like to see a article in black & white saying otherwise.
*
If you guys don't mind lets address the viscosity and API rating discussion seperately to avoid confusion smile.gif.

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 21 2012, 06:11 PM
klate
post Jun 21 2012, 07:28 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 21 2012, 07:09 PM)
I have show you tons of article in black & white saying you are absolutely wrong on "Synthetic last 10K and Mineral 5K" nonsense.


http://www.buzzle.com/articles/synthetic-o...e-interval.html

http://www.kitcarmag.com/techarticles/synt...tech/index.html
*
Some result from provided link above

Synthetic vs. Mineral Oil

The only basic difference between synthetic oil and mineral oil, apart from its manufacture and origin, is the molecular and particulate structure of both the lubricants. Synthetic oil being a perfected product, has a very even and uniform structuring of molecules and particulates. On the other hand, mineral oil contains uneven and less uniform molecules as compared to synthetic oil. Now, when the car, engine, piston and piston block is new, it is always advisable to use, mineral oil. The uneven molecular structure of mineral oil makes the uneven surfaces of the components and auto parts rub with each other and erode, thus making the surface even and smooth . This is very useful, as the young components of the engine get into shape and adapt to the mechanism. As the engine grows older, the components, get into shape and start running swiftly without any friction. This is where one should start using synthetic oil. This oil basically keeps the engine in shape and helps in increasing the durability of the engine.

There are several other advantages and disadvantages of synthetic oils as well as mineral oils. Going into the details is pretty difficult and complex. The argument, about which is better, is almost as old as the time since they were found, and is getting more and more complex due to the advancements that are being integrated in lubrication.
By Scholasticus K


And this is what I get from this link http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1...nventional-oils

Service Life
A popular topic concerning the difference between mineral oils and synthetic lubricants is service life. Synthetic lubricants as a class don't show their age, particularly at high temperatures, and have a longer service life. [B]Often, the change interval is several times longer for synthetics at identical operating temperatures; however, the exact number depends on operating conditions, the additives and the specific synthetic used.

Synthetic lubricants have a lower friction coefficient in a gearbox, better film strength and a better relationship between viscosity and temperature (viscosity index, VI). This indicates synthetic lubricants can be used at lower viscosity grades and lower temperatures. When this is the case, the gap between the service lives of minerals and synthetics significantly increases.

Related to the oil change interval is the issue of product loss through evaporation and disposal. Both sludge and residue form more readily with mineral oil products. Evaporative losses are lower for synthetics due to the lack of lighter hydrocarbon structures. Disposal is more costly with some synthetics, but it is nowhere near enough to compensate for change-out intervals that are three to five times more frequent.

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 21 2012, 07:43 PM
klate
post Jun 21 2012, 10:36 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 21 2012, 08:27 PM)
Yes, Synthetic BASE OIL last longer than Mineral BASE OIL. Nobody dispute that.

But Synthetic ENGINE OIL does not last longer than Mineral ENGINE OIL. Not the same thing if you think about it more carefully. This is where many people got mislead thinking BASE OIL and ENGINE OIL are the same. They are NOT!

ENGINE OIL contains:
1. Base oil. Synthetic last longer & more stable and more slippery etc than Mineral.
2. Additives. The additives in BOTH Synthetic ENGINE oil and Mineral ENGINE OIL are the same and need to be changed AT THE SAME TIME.

To recap, the reason why you need to change engine oil is because ADDITIVES had been depleted, not because Base Oil has gone bad. Read the link I gave you earlier.
*
Actually I don't want to lock in a rat hole with you. Because you are right base on your understanding.

Honestly I becoming more confuse with your WORD EQUATION. It is either you really confuse, or you try to confuse others by playing with the WORD or you are right and I'm confuse smile.gif

Anyway we are Exora bold owners .... rather than debating on something that may put us apart let focus on Exora related. We can still debate but pls don't be too strong unless we are really sure of that. I'm not the expert on the o engine oil technology but my knowledge build on my understanding after reading the original article from the WEB (including from the link in your post) my understanding from the article is 180' different from yours. So its not about the article but the way we understand the article smile.gif

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 21 2012, 10:41 PM
klate
post Jun 22 2012, 05:49 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
QUOTE(Shah's @ Jun 21 2012, 11:35 PM)
Yes my man, its normal CFE behavior...

BTW enjoy your new ride.... EB CFE rocks  notworthy.gif

PS, I've got back my car after SC replaced the OWV and OCV and now my engine feels smoother than before, Today morning, no more KOKOK sound when i cold start my engine.. YAY  rclxm9.gif
*
Good to hear that .... hopefully it the issue gone for good for you to really enjoy the ride.

QUOTE
Brotan...

hi guys

got my car just now

wanna ask. after switch off engine, got the wwwrrrrr.... sound for about 3 min then only shut off

the SA said the fan still running to cool the engine

normal kah?


Congratulation on your new ride....
klate
post Jun 22 2012, 06:41 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jun 22 2012, 06:31 AM)
I would love to debate on which part of that article makes us interpret it differently. Would be easier if you can cut&paste and quote.


Thanks for invitation but I'm not interested to lock in debate at this moment.... I would rather be in discussion, sharing and collaboration.... cheers.

May be a little bit of conclusion from me related to Syn Vs Mineral.... but I try to be nutral since I'm not the expert so I won't make any stand for others to follow.

QUOTE
Synthetic vs. Mineral Oil
The only basic difference between synthetic oil and mineral oil, apart from its manufacture and origin, is the molecular and particulate structure of both the lubricants. Synthetic oil being a perfected product, has a very even and uniform structuring of molecules and particulates. On the other hand, mineral oil contains uneven and less uniform molecules as compared to synthetic oil. Now, when the car, engine, piston and piston block is new, it is always advisable to use, mineral oil. The uneven molecular structure of mineral oil makes the uneven surfaces of the components and auto parts rub with each other and erode, thus making the surface even and smooth . This is very useful, as the young components of the engine get into shape and adapt to the mechanism. As the engine grows older, the components, get into shape and start running swiftly without any friction. This is where one should start using synthetic oil. This oil basically keeps the engine in shape and helps in increasing the durability of the engine.

There are several other advantages and disadvantages of synthetic oils as well as mineral oils. Going into the details is pretty difficult and complex. The argument, about which is better, is almost as old as the time since they were found, and is getting more and more complex due to the advancements that are being integrated in lubrication.
By Scholasticus K


Even the expert admitted that the argument about which is better is ........ so who am I to debate this matters with you.

To take the best and be on the save side (but of course an expensive proposal), use fully synt and change it every 5k km smile.gif .

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 22 2012, 08:49 AM
klate
post Jun 22 2012, 02:32 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
Manage to drive mine today .... confirm the alignment is Good.

Still no problem with the car, and love it. I just remove the middle single seat for easy path to the back seat.
klate
post Jun 23 2012, 10:43 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
QUOTE(Shah's @ Jun 22 2012, 03:04 PM)
Wowo, you really can do that??? mind taking a pic drool.gif
*
Shah, No need picturelah, it is plain simple, just loosen the 4 bolts holding the seat (2 under the seat and 2 from front - you need to remove the plastic covering the nut first). BUt the sight is not nice since the design is very simple, the 4 naked bolts will expose and am thinking to buy a carpet to cover the seat base.
klate
post Jun 25 2012, 08:55 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
Update on my fuel consumption driving from PG to KL and back with 3 adults + 4 kids. Note the fuel consumption is base on the build in meter which I reset before the trip.

Current mileage is ~3300km.
If going ~110km/h consumption is ~7.9l/100
If going ~140km/h is ~9.9l/100

My average speed from KL-PG is betwen 140-160km/h and average fuel is 10.1l/100km. Push to 175km/h for cpl occasions.

The car feel stable at 140-160km/h. The fact kids can still enjoy wathing the DVD at the back keeping them quiet further comfirm the comfort level thus meet my expectation/need of buying this car. I'm happy with the power coming from this 1.6l engine, have no problem to accelerate from 130km/h to 160km/h. The noise level is not great but acceptable.

The aircond is definately cold. When traveling at night even with front blower set at 1, kids complain too cold and switch off the rear blower.

I purposely remove the 1 seater middle row seat, that give easy path to the rear seat as well as extra luggage space. If you arrange the luggage carefully (put a layer of comforter on top of soft luggage) kid can still use the space for one of them to sleep comfortably.

Have opportunity to drive 2008 estima while in KL. Comparing to Exora, it is expected that estima is more quiet, comfort to drive, bigger and nicer overall. However going back to Exora I don't miss alot. At least I feel exora size is just nice for family outing as well as don't feel too big for daily usage.

Overall driving experience was good and not very tiring. Start our journey from UIA gombak @ 6:45pm, total drive is 3 hrs from UIA Gombak to Juru Toll, add another 1 and half hr stop made at Bukit Gantang rest area to arrive home @ 11:30pm

My small wish
1. The Exora come with brighter head light (nice for going beyond 140kmh at night smile.gif )
2. The tapping signal is too short (5 blinks), would be nicer if it can be adjusted to say 15 blinks.

Overall very satisfied with my choice of the ride provided the MPV can stand the time test to maintain its good quality smile.gif

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 25 2012, 09:21 AM
klate
post Jun 26 2012, 08:52 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
QUOTE(jemmi @ Jun 26 2012, 08:07 AM)
Booking at PJ Dealer, colour Elegance Brown, Discount 2K & rate 2.68%. Anyway I'm not rushing just hope not too late. Only problem my booking plate no already 2 weeks old.
*
This is a very good deal ... My SA only promise me RM200 ( promise becauses I have not receive that smile.gif ). Which bank do you get 2.68%?.

The higest offer I got is RM800 discount.

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 26 2012, 08:54 AM
klate
post Jun 27 2012, 04:35 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2012
QUOTE(rapidbumi @ Jun 27 2012, 03:08 PM)
going for second service this weekend... not sure whether to go back to mutiara dsara or go to PJ volcar at seapark or others... hmm  whistling.gif
*
How is the car ... any problem?. Mine at 3.5k km, still no complain to make.


Added on June 27, 2012, 4:36 pm
QUOTE(brotan @ Jun 26 2012, 10:42 AM)
haven't installed. haha

will update
*
What sort of firewall? ... how it will improve the comfort level?


This post has been edited by klate: Jun 27 2012, 04:38 PM

6 Pages  1 2 3 > » Top
Topic ClosedOptions
 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.0447sec    0.42    7 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 1st December 2025 - 10:05 AM