will you guys consider to reduce the lag from pressing pedal to when power is available?

the SA said can be done and won't void warranty but must be done at Proton service centre lah

Have you try taking out the headlight bulb?..... I tried but not successful... having trouble disconnecting the connector.

You need to twist to to left or right?. I though it just a striaght snap in of the bulb's lead/pin into the connector.

I was able to remove the bulb together with rubber and connector from the headlamp assembly by releasing the spring that holding the bulb to the headlamp. But I cannot get the connector out from the bulb pin.

I can take out the small bulb easily by twisting to the right/left.

So something wrong with my bulb assembly... that what I thought - just pull out from the socket. But feel like the bulb pins are soldered/glue to the socket. I even try to "congkel" the bulb off the socket using the screwdriver.

Yes I was trying to replace with the Philip Extreme Vision Plus. Bit I still cannot replace it since I cannot dismantle the bulb from the connector. How is the performance of your Philip bulb?

The spring clip is holding the bulb to the headlight body.

When I loosen the clip the bulb come out together with connecter and he rubber housing.

Mine also 6 seater 

i should say lucky for both of u ak & klate..

i should say lucky for both of u ak & klate..

hi bro, do u nd to open the engine cover to screw the cable to the engine head?

recently feel my car hard to start, mostly when engine is hot.
got ignition sound. sometimes nd to try 2-3 times.
donno doing grounding will help or not.

Shit, that means there is no escape from this problem, please keep us updated

2die4 dude, Sorry to know that yr EB are having such a problem.. Mine is also having the same symptom as yours for #1 & #2.
My OCV valve already changed twice and my CFE is the 1st batch (January batch). Mileage juz passed 9k.. After the second OCV changed, my EB was running fine for about 1.5k km mileage, then the "engine mati" symptom came back once a while... Fortunately, akchang dude reminds me on the grounding project which I had done on
my ex Toyota SEG years back..
Now, I had it DIY on my CFE for 2 weeks already.. As usual, I did 5 important points grounding, which consists :-

*2 points on the body - (important coz proton only did 1 grounding, its mounted to the body, in between the body
  & ground wire, there's paint, so i don't know how good the existing grounding are.)

*1 point to the alternator - (important, coz alternator is a generator which generate current to the battery.)

*1 point to the engine - (important, whole engine is sitting on the rubber engine mounting & high current runs to
  the spark plugs, so, I dun know how good is the grounding there also)

*1 point on the gearbox - (in between gearbox and the engine, there's a gasket, we dun know how good also)

This is my 2 weeks findings:-

1) Smoother engine - although slight jerking is still there, but has improved. It could be the Punch CVT gearbox
    character is like that..
2) So far no engine stalls - could be too early to confirm this, need more time to test.
3) Air-con fan - can feel the efficiency of the fan has improved - slight improvement.
4) Radio reception - slight improved
5) Headlamp light - slight brightness improved
6) Battery - my ex ride T.SEG battery has longer lifespan, although sound system been upgrade with amplifiers, so
    not sure about our EB..

So you continue to have a much better feel with those grounding works?

Could it Proton overlooked the good grounding design that lead to those "remeh temeh" problem?.