At that rate, what is the loan amount and number of years?

RM87,000 for 9 yrs @ 2.88% means you will have to pay interest of RM22,550 over the 9 years. Or RM2,505 per year as interest. Wow.

Those things only look good and sounded good. As for performance, forget about it.

They will say you have "no class" driving a Proton.

Exora CFE specifies oil 10W30. It says nothing about 0W30 or 5W30. Does anyone know the exact technical reason for 10W30? Does CFE uses flat tappet camshafts or rolling cams?

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 7 2012, 01:27 PM

Engine manufacturer don't simply recommend things. If it SPECIFICALLY says 10W30, it would mean that grade is best. Whereas for 10W40, you can also use but then it wouldn't be "best'.

For me, I just wanted to know the reason 'why'.

Yap. AFAIK, all 10W30 are Mineral Oil with most being API SL grade. Most Synthetic would be SM grade with lower ZDDP additives. I wondered whether that could be the reason. So until I know the reasons, I would also stick to Mineral 10W30 also, regardless of what SC said. For all I know, they couldn't be smarter than the engine manufacturer, could they?

No such thing. No manufacturer will say that. They will say....at different ambient temperature, use different SAE etc

I know. But what puzzles me is, Proton could have written it as 0W30, 5W30 and 10W30. But they did not, instead, they only wrote 10w30 (which is more likely to be Mineral rather than Semi or Synthetic). Furthermore, in the Lotus document, it was stated as "lower viscosity Mineral Oil" with no mention of Synthetic.

So my question is, why keep emphasizing or implying to use Mineral oil? This the part I am trying to work out.

Did some search and it seems X1R contains high level of Extreme Pressure/Anti Wear additives ZDDP. If I wanted more ZDDP, I would simply use an API-SL rated oil instead of SM rated oil rather than getting it from X1R. SL rated oil has higher level of ZDDP than SM oil. In fact, this may be one reason why Proton/Lotus asked you to use Mineral Oil because the Mach 5 10w50 is SL rated.

By using the high ZDDP in X1R, you run the risk of killing your catalytic convertor much faster. The high sulfur in X1R will also kill your gearbox copper/bronze parts much faster also.

If I were you, I will insist the mechanic take the X1R out of the engine.


http://pub27.bravenet.com/faq/show.php?use...5418&catid=1397
I have not heard much about x1r so i decieded to try a little experiment. i use oil analysis on my truck and know what my oil additives, wear metals, and other basic levels run on the average. in talking with race car drivers and engine builders, they all laid claim as to how good this stuff really works. well here is what i come to learn from this experience. i run schaeffers 15w40 in my truck, at about 200 miles before i was to change my oil, i put a bottle of x1r in as directed from them. now since schaeffers already has an excellent barrier lubricant in the oil, i never noticed any difference when i put the x1r in. after 200 miles of normal use, i drained and pulled the sample. when the lab results came back my concerns were a reality. with 6600 miles on my oil the results showed my ep/antiwear (zinc/ph) levels really high (zinc-1180/ph-1078 norm would be around 730-850). also the detergents (cal) was through the roof at over 3660ppms (norm 730-850ppm). now what that did is elevate my oxidation level that was norm at 19 to a 33. i also found sulfur levels that was never a problem (always at 0 out of 100%) now at 30%. my viscosity level was higher than normal, (15cst) where as it would be around 13.47-14. my thought on this is, i will personally never run x1r in anything i own again. i can see where in a race application, this is an excellent way to add some extra protection but, then the oil is changed after a few races and race engines are subject to rebuilds more often than personal car engines so the oxidation doesn't have time to do any damage to the soft metals. with higher levels of oxidation, your soft metals would begin to show possible damage by using this technology in a conventional engine. my personal observation of the x1r additive is it's an overload of ep's z/ph and a high level of cal detergent that causes a rise in visc due to higher levels of oxidation. this has been my thoughts that an overload of ep including mos2 would cause oxidation levels to rise causing the visc to increase as well. another thing i find interesting is the x1r is an additive that is used in gear boxes, rearends, manual transmissions, and powerstearing units. as most of you know, all those applications haven't got the blowby gases in them like an engine produces and in gearboxes and rearends as well as other things, they are usually using a higher level of ep.since this is touted to be a versital additive from engine to rearend, it is using nothing more than the same basic additives in oils by overloading them. this is nothing more than a personal experience/opion of what i feel about this product. this isn't to say it can't be good, but i believe that in the average vehicle situation, i'd tread lightly when it comes to this and most other ep additives. bob
Category: OIL ADDITIVES

I don't use additives nor do I believe in using Synthetic oil because I don't drive a Ferrari nor living in Alaska. This "Synthetic last 10K but Mineral 5K" is the biggest load of rubbish around Malaysia but don't see that around in overseas forum.

Does the service record shows you using your own oil? If yes, I wouldn't want to do that because of warranty issue.

Can someone pls tell me more about this GPS that comes with the Bold? What brand? What model? Does it read Malfreemaps etc. thks

I decided to get the car manual and solve this once and for all on engine oil. Page 127. API SL rated oil or higher.

For Ambient temperature up to 40 deg C.
SAE 10W30

For Ambient temperature up to 50 deg C.
SAE 10W40, 10W50, 15W40, 15W50,20W40, 20W50


Do NOT use 5w40, 5W50, 5W30, 5W20. These are for Ambient Temperature 20 deg and below

10W30 would be the best choice for Malaysian climate. Since Malaysian Ambient temperature is ~30 deg C, there is still a huge safety margin because 10W30 can withstand up to 40 deg C.

xW40 or xW50 is too thick and will reduce performance and increase fuel consumption and we do not have Ambient temperature of 50 deg C.

As for service interval, for severe (city stop-start and long idling) it is every 5000-km. Otherwise it is 10,000-km.

1st service is 1000-km.

To keep it simple, just remember, do not use anything starting with 5Wxxx. It must be either 10Wxxx or 15Wxxx or 20Wxxx

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 9 2012, 05:34 PM

I too find it very strange and do not understand as to why Proton said 10Wx is OK but not 5Wx. Because AFAIK, the 10W and 5W are only relevant during cold engine start and the has nothing to do with final operating temperature.

And from my checking around, it seems Lotus is hinting to use only Mineral because you seldom see Synthetic with 10W30.

But the undeniable fact is, Proton/Lotus designed and built the engine so who are we to argue? IMO, we just have to accept what they said and stick to 10W30.

I would not want to do that. If Lotus/Proton says 5Wx is not OK, then 0Wx would be even worst.

CFE manual clearly says NOT to use 5Wx and yet they gave it to you. So I think they are either idiots or illiterate

I agree with you and that was also my understanding of engine oil. And that is also why I am so curious as to what could be the reason for Proton/Lotus for insisting on 10Wxx oil.

My guess:
1. Level of Extreme Pressure ZDDP level in motor oil. AFAIK, most of those Mineral 10W30 are API SL rated containing higher level of ZDDP than Synthetic with API-SM rating.

2. Soot handling capability. Mineral are better than Synthetic but normally, this is more of a problem for diesel engine and not gasoline engine like the CFE.

What's your view?

No car manufacturer will specifically say you can't use more expensive 5w30. Yet Proton did just that. So I don't think cost is the reason but rather some unknown to us technical reason. So until we know the reason, I will not want to take risk with 5W30

In fact, it is so incredible for Proton to specifically say you can't use 5W30 that I am wondering whether it could be a printing mistake.....

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 10 2012, 05:39 PM

May I ask the reason why?

Don't makes sense.

1. We WANTED oil to go between the bearing and thinner 0W oil can do that better. Only by getting between the bearing can we provide lubrication and protection to the bearing. Thicker 10W oil is less able to get between the thick bearing gap so in theory, 0W is better than 10W.

2. Synthetic oil can withstand higher temperature than Mineral so less chance of charring.