it's bad practise to put engine to D and apply brake at traffic light. just put it to N & brake.

btw add me to waiting list. cocoa-grey. been in waiting list since april, but no rush

what is the current tyre on EB? maybe get the same one?

2nd hand tyres are good option but try finding good ones with more then 80% threads since yours is new. better get new ones as the other 3 still do not have long milege in them.

This tyre is it good? I'm planning to swap to Michelin xm2 when I got mine. Been using them for sometime and really satisfied with them.

for those having wind sound, did you use the door visor? I think those contribute to the wind noise at high speed.

5Wxx, 10Wxx, 15Wxx - W rating is for winter, ie cold condition. not applicable in MY. The XX at the back is more important. Lesser XX is better and put less strain to the engine.

I think people / mechanic suggests based on experience. So far the generic rule - 5k mineral, 7k semi, 10k full-synt.

on my waja, i'm using Shell Semi blue bottle, and this rule does apply. on normal driving, it clock 7.5l/100km. now I just missed last oil change at 7k, FC had worsened 8.9l/100.

not sure how exora will fair but, i'll stick to the general rule, eventhough there's no article/wiki/testing/sirim suggesting this.

I think should suffice adding pedal lock like the autolock.

I think the ones that break warranty is the permanent ones. they tap to the wiring to signal the alarm.

the removable ones should be OK.
http://www.megacell.com.my/products/1440.asp

On EB do we need to press the brake before we can put the car to D? I think this is true on Preve.

If I am not mistaken 3yrs is from proton, then extended warranty 2 years covered by bank. At least this is what I remember talking to the salesman.

extended warranty to 150k km or 5 years. anyone has this on their ride?

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Added on June 23, 2012, 11:46 pmRefer here; http://www.proton-edar.com.my/After-Sales/...d-warranty.aspx

We can't miss service at PE for Extended Warranty Program

This post has been edited by zaidi: Jun 23 2012, 11:46 PM

This is the basic costing for servicing EB CFE at PE SC.
http://www.proton-edar.com.my/pdf/procareP...xora%20Bold.pdf

Summary:
Summary removed. Many wrong assumptions better check with you SC.

But the high cost should come at 60k and 120k.

What spark plug does Proton use? Rm100 for 1 spark plug?

This post has been edited by zaidi: Jun 24 2012, 12:29 AM

Are there any additional benefits of the iridium? I mean I rather change normal spark plugs every 20k at RM50 (total Rm150 at 60km) than spending RM400 at once at 60k. Beside, if we have example dead piston rings at 30k, and we are forced to change spark plugs as well. The initial investment now gone.

check with Service Center for the EWP and how to qualify. I was told need to be endorsed by bank before we could do EWP

if you work at service center and heard this complaint please share. no cars are perfect. we just need to live with what we have and learn how to overcome. last time people are saying waja got many problems. yet mine served me 10 good years, only 1 time breakdown due to fuel filter after 250km on odo.

no, cost for part is 400, means around 100 each plug. check the pdf.

I think just follow the service booklet if want to be in warranty. really how do we determine 'severe'. If we occasionally use the car for long distance but maintain good speed 120-130kmph I don't think it's severe enough.

I think only applicable for early batches. read from kristof at AW, newer batches got upgraded already.

Bros.
Got my ride last thursday, all in good condition.

Just to check:
1. Klak Klak sound during morning start up. That is normal? Sounds like coming from gearbox
2. Oil drip from back side, left tyre. It's not much but visible. Is it from aircond or somewhere else?
3. tint recommendation.

Now just clocked about 200km so far no issue yet.

Thanks

the sound only during the first crank. in the afternoon this seldom or does not happen at all. what was the issue with the earlier batch?

the oil leak is actually with water. I know at the back we have blower as well, so it may be coming from that?

those who has krak-krak sound when cranking to start the engine need to have OWV valve replace. this only happens when engine is cold.

brotan, for with the slow eb start, normally I will just throttle to around 1.5k-2k rpm when power really kick in. at traffic jam i just play with brakes, the EB do move at 800-900 rpm but it is really slow.

if you want to retain warranty, let the SC do the mods. some accessory are sold by SC and if SC install it won't void warranty.

get R3 rims if you want to upgrade rim

for the drrr drrr sound after pothole or coming down on road bumper try replacing this part PW828545 strut mount assy

This post has been edited by zaidi: Sep 27 2012, 12:18 AM

should be covered by warranty

just complain we have the drrr drrr sound after hitting pothole/road bumps. they should know

for this sympton if i am not mistaken you should replace the OCV oil contol valve. This should not take long to replace

easy, put wiper to slowest, default 5 secs if i am not mistaken, then before it's fully down put it to off, then count how many second you want for new interval, then start the wiper again. this will be your new wiper speed.

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Added on November 2, 2012, 11:56 pmdo join the exora owners club, very active club, almost weekly TT depending on the region. this year there will be gathering in penang, almost 200 exora will join. it will be fun konvoi across the penang bridge

This post has been edited by zaidi: Nov 2 2012, 11:56 PM