The last thread have reach its maximum 2500 posts. So please enjoy discussion in version 2. If you got anything to request please PM me.

I you find any critical information / guidelines / tips / tricks to share please have it copy and paste to this pinned section:

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=165070

Ok , PCCrazy, thanks for informing the rest of the changes. Anyway guys based on the article at systemcooling.com, it seems for ordinary loops, a good HMAX & QMAX pump is the recommended must have component when pairing with the Storm G4. Wonder how it'll do with lower end pumps with very short loops in the first place. Would be interesting to know once mine arrives. But I have a feeling that the Cyber Aqua would be able to give the G the muscle that it needs in the 1st place

I would like to know what you water-cooling veterans think of me teaming up a Zalman Reserator with a Storm CPU block ? ( standard Reserator pump )

Performance wise ? I've been reading alot about the Storm needing a powerful pump. Do you guys think my standard Reserator pump would do the job ?

This post has been edited by QUDERN: Jul 27 2005, 03:52 AM

If you are planning to use a reserator.... do try to look for a waterblock that would perform with low flow and low head, as in low QMax and low HMax
The pump in the resorator IMO is weak and definitely would not work very well when coupled with the g4.
If your planning to get a reserator....use its own block or IMO again, the swiftech mcw6002 would be a good option.

This post has been edited by TJye: Jul 27 2005, 10:12 AM

have a look at Here.

home theater liquid cooling system by TT...

omg...is cool
5*120mm fan

If you still wanna use the Reserator, I'd suggest finding a way to lose the pump and use a better specced pump cos you'll seriously choke the poor block of sufficient water. A low flow based block like MCW6000 series would suit better if you plan to keep everything stock instead

I've got a Reserator and I've just purchased the Storm. What if the loop is very short ( Reserator -> CPU -> Reserator ) I'm all for the aesthetics of my workstation, that's why I went for the Reserator cause I do not like see tubes and pump all over the place. What pump would be suitable to be placed inside the Reserator ? I want a pump that's small enough to fit inside the Reserator like the original pump inside.

Have anyone of you tried the standard Reserator with a Storm ?

Anyway, thanks for all the input. Cheers

Man. That has got to b the biggest rad around. N it looks damn good too. Imagine that rad with a big pump n the Storm block.



I think the best small pump to fit ure reserator yet with adequate specs for the Storm wud b the MCP350 with 4m head n 350lph flow. This is the minimum that Swiftech specs for the Storm. This is the pump in my Corsair Cool kit too. It's very small n quiet. I can't even hear the pump. What r the specs of ure reserator pump though?



This post has been edited by ianho: Jul 27 2005, 04:59 PM

i think u'll benefit more from the architecture of the storm G4 block with a more powerful pump... for a reserator it's better if u have some of the previous swiftech non restrictive blocks.. the G4s uses jet impingement design and are unlike previous MCW waterblocks..

it will work.. but not at full potential.. and maybe getting a MCW6000 block will yield better results instead

The MCP350(tm) 12 VDC Pump is rated at 350L/h
Maximum Integrated Water Pump for Reserator : 5 W, Qmax 300L/h
Maximum Lift : 0.5m dammit

Mind borrowing me for a day to see if it fits my Reserator


I guess you didn't read about the aesthetics part I'm all for looks. Having some Rad and 5 fans coupled with some huge pump sitting on my table just isn't my style for the minimalis in me

This post has been edited by QUDERN: Jul 27 2005, 09:45 PM

OMG this design is so stupid, waste so much of the pressure on goin against the gravity.

But if the inflow to the rad is from the top, wouldn't that create high pressure outflow at the bottom ?

Some pumps are build to run dry, if you submerge the MCP350. Prepare to RMA it. I think the best is still to change the whole setup. That is your best choice with the Storm block from Swiftech.

Btw can anyone confirm what Ohm variable resistor should I use for my MCP650 from voltage 7-12v? So far I know that I have to use 6 Ohm.

lol...better then someone...then good enough

both of the inlet and outlet is from the bottom which means it'll still loose pressure to the gravity.

instead of goin vertical, why not go horizontal ?

i think thermaltake is try to sell overrated products again.

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Jul 27 2005, 10:19 PM

0.5m lift? Phuiyoh, that really sux man. We swap lah. I pinjam u the pump, u pinjam me ure 20" ACD.



The Reserator uses submerged pump kah? Didn't know that. Ooooooops.

If only I didn't love my ACD so much, I would be happy to
I guess I'll go get the Swiftech one and mount it on my butt so there'll be less clutter on the table

Yes, like those aquarium filter pumps. Got diving licience, open water 50 meters

This post has been edited by QUDERN: Jul 28 2005, 12:41 AM

hey alln...still not done wit ur wc kit ah??i have been waiting so long for it la..

You have to find out what's the current rating for the pump at the moment. Easiest is to use the general formula of V = I x R to determine what's the required resistance range that would be sufficient for such an application

Yeah, got my friend to help out confirming the ohm for the resistor. Just need more confirmation here... Kiasu wei... RM300+ pump here i'm puting on the line...

Can't be helped. If I had one and I fried it, seriously gonna have a very long down time unless I'm willing to use AC pumps instead.

copper blocks are completed already and the rads will be completed within this week....]
but i still get that tygon tubing......hmm.......

Ocforums rheostat guide

Prodigy:I suppose the link above applies to your case since both a fan and a D5 are on dc motors.

According to the calcuation there,
this is what I've found
variable resistor of at least 4.286 ohms is required as following the calculation over at the link provided from the site that a D5 consumes 2amps and 12 vdc.

applying the calculation to d5
by the Ohm's law
12v = Imax * R pump
12v/2.0 = Rpump
Rpump = 6 ohms.

if pump @ 7v , Imin=?
7v= Imin *Rpump
It is known that the pump have a resistance of 6 ohms....
so,
Imin=7v/6ohm=7/6amps

therefore lowering 12v to 7v the diff of potential is 5v
5v = Imin*Rrheostat
so,
Rrheostat = 5v/(7/6)=4.286 OHMs
a rheostat of 4.286 ohms and above would do the trick...
the rheostat must also have a rating of at least 5.000 watts.
Wrheostat = Imin * Rrheostat = 4.286*(7/6)

I think if the bigger the ohm rating of the rheostat the less sensitive the rheostat is towards lowering the voltage, vice versa. The last time I went jalan pasar I was only able to get variable resistor of only 500 ohms the smallest rating .... prb I don't know how to look for them.
It make sense to me, and I hope it helps you and pls other gurus like amok do help on this topic

Thanks a million bro. So my best bet is still around 4-6ohm resistor. Also found out some ways to make the MCP650 pump flow rate better. Looks like I have to wait for the Storm block to reach then able to perform the mod.

My MCP350 pump just died on me this morning. Turned on my PC n went to make a cup of coffee. About 5 minutes later I came back to the PC with my cup of coffee n the PC hanged. Cudn't move the cursor. Then I looked at my Guru Clock n the temp was 80C! Immediately did a hard shutdown by pulling the plug. Thank god I only left the PC for bout 5 minutes. There's more bad news. The temp on the CPU water block was so hot that the tube deformed just enuf to start a leaky drip. After I pulled the plug. I opened the side panel to see what happened. There was coolant on my AGP slot, GC, PCI slots n even the bottom of the case had a pool of water. $HITE! Bloody hell man. I bought a branded kit so that I dont hafta kena nightmare like that n it still happens n only after having the kit for 2 months. What can I do dudes? Can I ask Cudo to exchange a different model pump for the warranty claim ah? No more confidence in the bloody MCP350. Supposed to b an industrial grade pump with 50000hour lifespan sumore.

I just spent the whole day stripping down the PC. Then used the hairdryer to dry all the components thoroughly for a few hours. Then reinstalled everything back with my TT Silent Tower n the stock 6800GT cooler. Crossed my fingers, prayed, booted up n luckily everything works just fine. Thank god my whole PC miraculously survived this horrible event. If it had happened while I was sleeping then the whole PC wud have died man.

My condolenses for your dearly departed pump.

Think of the bright side lor...at least the GODS of Hardware are watching over you and the rig survived.

Ps: But boss...please lar get rid of that "SilentTower"..it's just obscene.

This is why I've always preferred AC based pumps cos at least you have to power it up 1st and know that it runs in the 1st place. And also the fact that crappy gremlins of the PSU won't really affect you

Condolenses to you ianho... maybe ur MCP350 are the unlucky ones... Look at the bright side, hey there's MCP655 waiting for u ler..

ianho....sure or not?
i use same brand wit u ler...
asikk...u running 24/7?
but my "air besar" is running 24/7 loh...no problem at all...
corsair cool jus for OC saje, not yet try 24/7 running...

Looks like u got one of the rotten apples... that 50000 hour lifespan is MeanTimeBeforeFailure or something... so maybe yours just happens to be on the wrong side of mean? Just go swap it for a new one! Mention a few times that it caused your comp to get all wet and caused you undue mental anguish... maybe they'll throw in some freebies hahaha

any1 got storm yet ??

Aiyaaaa. What's wrong with the Silent Tower? It's good man. Idle n load temps almost as good as my water cooling kit. Just that the sound from the UFO fan is a killer. Loud as hell. Anyway, using it now to satisfy my cravings for my daily dose of games. God knows how long the RMA gonna take. From what I hear Cudo has a really good reputation in terms of customer service so I hope they change it for a better model or sumthin. If they give me another MCP350, I'm gonna throw a big fit in the office man. If I really don't get a better pump from Cudo then I'll just keep the MCP350 as a spare.



Those aquarium pumps run on AC right? I remember having a really good Fluval brand aquarium canister filter n that ran 24/7 for years with all the fish crap n algae n everything. What wud b a good pump to buy. I'm willing to spend up 300 on it.




I was running it 24/7. That's y I'm so lucky that I switched it off for 2 days coz I wasn't at home. I dread to think what wud haf happened if it was leaking while I wasn't home. It could haf shorted out everything n started a fire or sumthin.




What apple? I think they sold me the rotten seed oni. Hahaha. Sux man.

This post has been edited by ianho: Aug 1 2005, 11:36 PM

ianho : that fluval pump are good ones.. if im not mistaken made in italy.. another one is HAGEN, also made in italy.. i only got the small pump so cant be use since the flowrate are just too low...

fulamak very dahsyat one waterblock for nvidia 6XXX cards..made of silver n only 3 of it..call it octopus..

saw this in other forum..



http://www.devilmaster.org/modules.php?nam...order=0&thold=0

Phuiyoooh. Very nice work of art. But it's a very scary thought with all those joints thereby increasing the chances of leakage. I'm sooooo paranoid of leaks now I'm even thinking of going back to air cooling for good.

I can imagine the massive restrictions interms of flow rates that block is gonna cause in any loop and plus the fact WC'ing the RAM's aren't worth it in the 1st place since DDR3's are relatively cool running

ddr3 runs cool??? i dun thknk soo lor!! i touch my gc am b4 and very hot !! can burn my fingers!!

that is nice design, especialy the part RAM.

for normal use i think the DDR3 no need or no required for cooling, but in OC it should need it, otherwise blow it first.

if you scared of leaks..

invest in a high end air cooled heatsink

it will priced as much as lower end water cooling set

Perhaps the moral of the lesson here is ....

Set a conservative shutdown temp.

Totally agree with what sniper said. One mistake doesn't make one give up. One learns. I can bet that many of us WC users have learnt many mistakes which can be costly but we're still at it

Haha.. my casing oso last time banjir due to the leaks caused by improper sealing of the pump (nirox p2800 maa...). But watercooling really is a good hobby actually since it makes our brain thinks on how to improve the temp.. For me la.. hahahahha

The lowest shutdown temp I can set on the AV8 is 75C. I did set it at 75C but dunno y when I noticed the thing hang it was oredi showing 80C.

thermaltake product always stay at the point......the price is match with the procuct same with the water cooling kit....but as what i heard is......the good stuff only the high price stuff....like the water cooling kit.....over RM700 just a good water cooling kit...

what water cooling kit r u using??

wuts the temp before u install for idle and full load??
wuts the temp after u install it for idle and full load?

me2


see my sig

how do u know theres not much difference since u dunno ur temp b4 installation??

u can try to change the fan, use shorter loop....

Lookie what I found here. Can you guess what's that installed?

Who's Storm Mr Sargeant?

Sweet

Blardy tempting.

Em, i'm new to water cooling, so i really need something simple,and works well. Recently i have a bit of extra cash to spare, so i contemplated to buy either a CoolerMaster Mini Aquagate or Bigwater 12cm (i can only find non-SE model atm). Or i could also choose a Tt Big Typhoon (read about the great performance).

But i found one disturbing news from lyn, the Tt bigwater non-SE had a high RMA rate because of pump failure. The contrasting fact is many Bigwater users swear by bigwater. May i have a confirmation on this?

About Mini Aquagate 12cm model, i did google around, but all i could find is very biased reviews, most of which compares the performance of Aquagate to very outdated heatsinks or even stock heatsinks (who use stock anyway). The same case applies to Bigwater. And most importantly, i didn't find a review done by the more reputable websites (overclockers.com or tomshardware.com)

What is better, aquagate or bigwater? Since the price is so similar. Or should i not get a water cooling at all? I'm currently using CAK4-88t, i swapped the fan for 3 bladed Tt at very low fan speed for quieter pc. The temp i got is mere 37c web surfing and 42-43c full load. Before you complain my temp is inaccurate, please take note, i heavily underclocked my processor and it only throttle to full speed in heavy load conditions. Even at full speed the Vcore is only 1.375v-~40w max heat dissipation. Even the passively cooled CM NB cooler (Zalman clone) and my fancooled WD hdd is much hotter than the heatsink.

I really need a honest review, aside from the fanboyish review and the biased review of the unreputable websites. I'm sorry if i threaded on anyone's foot.

Please advise.

Welcome to the most rabid watercooling enthusiast thread about watercooling you will ever find. Let me start off firt in some way to guide you to the basic understanding of WC concepts. Personally and quite a few others, I don't really recommend that you get those pre-made WC sets developed by CM and Tt as they are indeed very mediocre in terms of performance desired. The reason why many of us use WC is to obtain great reductions in temps without the penalty of noise itself (Although in terms of complexity it increases) which many aircooling enthusist have to pay for. Those pre-made sets do not yield much of that desired effect and it is best that you do scout around for bits and bobs which comprises of a watercooling set. We have a few good bulkers who are doing these bulks for time to time (pepijat for the Dangerden products, dinster for swiftech products). We have already obtained a failry reasonable idea about the Tt sets and their biggest flaws are the inefficiencies of the block's design (good at abosrbing heat but waterflow is horrible), terrible radiator design (which is a tube and fin design, good for waterflow, poor for airflow. People usually use bar and fin designs), and the pump which is low in terms of flow rate (QMax) and head pressure (HMax) as well as weak in terms of surviving voltage fluctuations. That's what I've gathered so far about the Tt sets. CM sets you'd have to wait for the few CM WC set users here to give their feedback about it. Corsair sets too. You can always ask ianho about the Corsair sets as well. For a better guide to what you should consider when getting into the WC scene, read the WC guide which me and amok have created in the sticky's section

Cheers

But wasn't those premade kits designed for the ease of use and budget of beginners? I know i couldn't / wouldn't achieve great temps if i use those premade kits, but custom kits overwhelmed me. there's too many waterblocks to choose from, from the little that i know, i've gathered the likes of swiftech, dangerden, northcool or something like that. I understand that the price of the water block alone already could be used to buy a whole Tt Bigwater kit, complete with coolant.

Depends my friend, if a high end block like the Storm G4, DD RBX and so forth, I can't help agree with you. But there's always the lower range versions like Swiftech's MCW6000 series, Dangerden's TDX and Maze 4 series which are still cheap. Comaparatively speaking, my first set of WC parts totalled up about RM500which compirised of a DD Maze 4, Black Ice Pro radiator, Tygon tubings, Nirox P2800 pump, custom made reservoir, and a Everflow 90cfm LED fan. Which is still a very good base which allows easy upgrade routes and experimentations. Something that pre-made kits rarely if do offer. Not to mention all these custom made systems are of 1/2 OD/ID which is still the recommended size compared to Tt's 3/8"

but what is the reliability of these custom watercooling kits? the last thing anyone would want to do is to splash their coolant onto their several grand system. What can we do if it really happened? can we rma the mainboard? or what if the pump fails while we're busy pumping lead onto the half-life 2 alien?
I've even read about the Tt Rocket's puny design, where the pump leaked after the water is heated slightly, resulting in terrible consequences. If this could happen to those pre-made kits, what are the chances it won't happen to a custom kit?
anyone ever actually suffered a leaking system? what can be done to prevent this from happening? (forget about non conductive fluid, it's too expensive to speak of)

RM500 for a starters' system is, IMHO, quite expensive. Forgive me, i know of people who would spend 3k for a cyrogenic cooler, but i'm not one of them. I know I'm cheap. The cheaper alternative is premade kits, but upgrading is not an option. But, what if all we need is a simple kit, which performs like the first day we installed it, year in year out?

Is there such a kit? Or is there a custom kit designed to require little or no attention?

That's why the most important mantra when assembling ANY WC kit pre-made or not is to leak test it for at LEAST 24 hours. Trust me, we all do that. And so far I've never have to face any problems with leaks or similiar tragedy's. And as for pump failure's, prevention is always better then cure. I as a rule always set my warning temps 5C above my load temps and shutdown temps 10C above load temps.

I never said that watercooling was a cheap affair but at the base price I quoted, you'd get something that is at least worth the crossover to WC'ing. Anything below that so far (besides allngaps' kit which we have yet to have the time nor the oppurtunity to test it) has been a failure in our personal opinion. Temps worse then even a decent air cooling solution, hardware being suspect and sheer complications worse then when starting with a DIY kit are the common things we've seen so far.

If you're still not convinced and adamant on using the CM and Tt kits, my only suggestion is this, stick to air cooling solutions as WC'ing is never for the faint hearted but those who dare will reap the benefits.

Simply said....you should consider just air cooling instead.

Cos....

1) ~$200 for a super high-end heatsinkfan combo is cheaper and in most cases BETTER than an almost $400 water cooling combo. So bang for buck is there.

2) If a person screws up mounting a heatsink properly, he/she's hell gonna screw up mounting a waterblock.

3) Aircooling is idiot-proof so you don't have to leaktest or worry about anything or even read up anything. Just make sure ya hook up the fan and it'll go.

4) In the likely event that ya feel that the combo kit not enough oomp.... the cost is even higher.

For example...
weak pump--> Change
bad block --> Change
Rad tak cukup --> change
even tubing too restrictive --> change

Results = RM400 worth of LED laden stuff down the drain + >RM500 for a new set of stuffs.

5) The only thing maintenance free is a piece of ROCK...hahaha...everything mechanical also will require some sort of maintenance right?

Expensive l337 stuff may fail, chances of some cut-price kit failing even higher.

Even one of our member had his l337 Corsair kit failing and nearly killing everything.

So...like almostthere said...set a proper shut down temp... do your maintenance (apply to air and water also) or just buy a Dell.... dun care if it dies...onsite warranty

Haha. Ask ianho bout his nightmare!

Few thousand $$$$ nearly went up in steam. Thank god my rig survived without any probs. Mebe using pure distilled, deionised water n keeping my rig as dust free as humanly possible helped save it. I've read that even if u use deionised fluid or those expensive non conducting fluids, it's the dust that conducts electricity when the liquid spills onto the dusty parts. Phew! Luckily I'm 1 hell of an obsessive person when it comes to a dust free rig. Anyway, I was just very unlucky to get a defective pump which is supposed to b really reliable n solid.



The TT Airbesar is not even running 3/8 ID hose man. The hose is thin like a pencil.

BTW, I just wanna ask u guys, r the Eheim 1046 n 1048 pumps any good? They're priced at rm250 n rm300 respectively. The 1250 is massively priced at rm500. Saw them at Ikano Pet World. The Eheim pumps r built like tanks. Really nice quality. Will the 1046 n 1048 flow enuf for my CPU, GPU, rad, reservoir loop? I saw the famous Hydor L20 at the PC fair n it was a really puny pump compared to the Eheim 1046 n 1048.

I'm waiting to c what pump I get from the RMA 1st. Coz the new MCP350 comes with a mobo rpm sensor wire so I can hook that up to shut down immediately if the pump dies n not wait for the temps to reach harakiri levels like previously. Hahaha. I may still buy the Eheim pump even with the new type MCP350 if it flows better. What u swimming gurus think?



Edit: Just did sum research n looks like the Eheim 1048 is very highly regarded by the kuai lows. 600lph n 5 foot head pump. N it's also quite affordable at only rm298. I've read that it's got a lifetime warranty, very very quiet n very reliable n more than enuf flow at 600lph. Anybody here tried the Eheim 1048?

This post has been edited by ianho: Aug 13 2005, 06:27 PM

Bigwater non-se have pump failure problem??
is it true?? luckily i have no problem with it...

if u r free enough to change water regularly, u may try using a watercooling kit... if not, u better stick with air cooling....

lol...air besar running in my barton system 24/7
no problem til 3month....

Just make sure ure Airbesar don't actually buang airbesar on ure rig. Hahahahahaa.

dont kutuk 3/8" tubing size la.. my asetek waterchill also use that size but perform better than some pre made wc kit with 1/2" tube

tt airbesar use 1/4" if i not mistaken...

This post has been edited by irenic: Aug 14 2005, 04:53 PM

Ok, I'm corrected over that matter. And yes, 3/8" not bad also. In fact the Europeans prefer to use that as it's a good compromise between flow rate restriction and airflow restriction if based on what I've seen so far actually. However, Cathar in Xtreme has recommended a new type of tubing which I'm not pretty clear about which is about 3/8" ID but has some property's similiar to TYgon's and has rather a smooth inner wall surface. But I'd bet that sort of tubing would cost a bomb

And ianho, I'd suggest you have a look at these charts

thx for da info.. how bout hydor L35? i just thinking to buy that pump to replace my hydor L20..

Hydor L35? Hmmm....I'd be very careful in choosing that as the heat dump from the pump itself (Going by the known feedback of the Nirox P5800..I think cos allngap used it to test his WC kit) is quite a fair amount and would be of major consideration before trying it

For a second opinion, have a look at this topic at xtreme by Maxxracer about pumps

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=41495

how bout if i blow a fan direct to the pump?

The question is how much the water is heated up by the pump when at normal operation speeds. The pump's heat as in physically can be solved but as to the introduction of that heat into the loop is another.

owh ic.. hmm

btw i cant open the link u gave above..

and i have a problem which is totally out of topic, but i hope i can asked from help from any of u guys here since this is one the 'still' active topic for tonite..

i just bought a thermaltake aquabay mr1 coz i like it looks, so after installing the tube, i decided to run a leak test for several hours. since all the waterblock is inside the pc, and i was lazy to remove them, i short my psu 24pin cable (pin 13 n 14) but i forgot to unplug molex for other hardware. then i ran it and after an hour no problem occurred. so i switch off my psu then a 'pop' sound heard.. i feel worried so i switched on my psu again n my psu kaboom and smoke came out from it
then i went to see dinster to borrow his psu (thx alot to him), and i quickly connect ONLY gfx, harddisk, watercooling pump and motherboard to the psu. all other things (ccfl, casing fan, optical drive) are still connected to my kaboom psu.

then i switch on my using dinster's psu and everything runs fine.. but the weird thing is, the ccfl, casing fan, optical drive, all run like usual.. like there is power connect to them why ek? huhu

OK, one time only OT reply, it's possible that the 12v and the 5v rails are still unharmed but it's possible that the 3.3v is a goner or one or a few pins of the 24 pin molexed blew edi. You have to narrow down the possible damages using a DMM

Hello, i'm back.For those asking bout where i heard the high failure rate of Bigwater's pump, i read it from the OCParadise's forum. Since i got here, i'm willing to share something with you all.

Actually i'm one of those early users of water cooling, remenber Senfu? I used their first WC kit, but before that, i've made my own waterblock, fashioned from a couple of 1cm ID copper tubing. It's quite effective, could reduce the temp of stock K6-2 usual hsf ( who care about their hsf those days?) by more than 9c. That time i'm in secondary school, and together with a few friends, we displayed the homemade cooling at our science fair. Needless to say, most visitor didn't even knew we need a fan to cool our processor. Back then radiator is unnecessary, you could run the water off a bucket and the water will only get slightly warm after half days of gaming (half-life and counter-strike) Ah, those good old days, where processors were so cool....

Anyway, i quit using Watercooling after buying the Senfu because it scuks big time. If there's a worst industrial design award, Senfu WC Kit will be the first prize award. Imagine using a aluminium base, copper fin water block. The waterblock literally corrodes itself away, and not to mention the terrible cooling temp. My homemade copper piping waterblock is much better at cooling than the senfu waterblock. Finally i stop using it and replace my cooler to aircooling, my first cooler is Volcano 7+, cooling is good but the noise is terrible. I sold the cooler after 1 week, and had been using a Globalwin CaK4-88t until now, occasionally buying new fans, currently using Volcano12 extreme fan, because the Globalwin heatsink is still better than the Volcano12 heatsink. Imagine the heatsink cycled through the 4 complete pc upgrades i did in the past 2 years!!

Since i'd used the Globalwin for so long, i'm itchy to get a new cooler again. So, not willing to repeat the experience i've had with Senfu, i'm really pushing reliability as the main factor when i want to choose a cooler.

I think most people will switch back to aircooling after they grow out of their overclocking sickness, until watercooling had more to offer for their reliability and price.

P/s: I still have the Senfu waterblock with me, anyone willing to buy it for their pc museum?

This post has been edited by ernie ball: Aug 19 2005, 02:04 PM

That depends on how commited one can be to the concept of WC'ing. Reliabillity, availabillity , and the abundance of users being able to share their experiences have made more and more users stay onto WC'ing even the compliacations arise as there's always someone willing to help to keep our addiction strong.n Speaking of addiction, I wish dinster's supplier wasn't such an a$$ and get those Storm G4's shipped ASAP

guys guys guys....

check this out: http://www.overclockers.com/tips1211/

the system got no pump!
use tec summore

is it just based on the concept that hot water go up, cold water go down?

interesting....
thought about that before(without pump) but without the tec...

the thermosyphon is indeed interesting but the only problem is on how to suck out all the air inside and make it airtight.

hm.... seems like have to soak the whole unit into a big pail of coolant and run the pump and everything inside the coolant then remove the pump and connect back the tube after all the air is gone

sounds silly but thats wut i think how it will work....

hey....anyone has any info on the vantec WC kit? price? availability? and most importantly reviews?

http://www.vantecusa.com/products/stg100/p_stg100.html

Bosses.... apa bikin?

The vantec look quite cantik at first glance leh. Scary part is just alu rad + copper block only.

Senang cerita, wait for online reviews or from someone who's using it since right now, not much info on it, no pics of the blocks design and the pumps a Hydor L20

Pics galore here:

http://www.coolerfreaks.dk/index.php?id=62

guys , i'm a noob to watercooling...

thinkin of gettin a bigwater SE/ aquagate mini or anything around that price...
runnin an M-barton as in sig.
could u guys recommend something that should suit my needs <RM500?

or where can i get custom built kits?

thanks a lot.

been saw a lot of ppl using submergesi pump but never put it in water.....the pump wont hv any problem ??

From this chart, the Eheim 1048 flows the same 94gph as the MCP350 though the Eheim pumps a lot more in free flow. Y? Coz of less Qmax?




This Vantec kit was shown at the recent PC Fair wat. Quite a nice looking set up. I wud say it shud b an OK set up coz it's at least using a Hydor L20 pump.

the vantec kit is quite pricey, over RM 1000+

alamak, that pump's spec is worse than Nirox 2800 and it has to flow thru so many components and a rad.
it's definitely not worth buying for the performance wise.

@allngap...got any teasing pcs of ur coming wc setups?...

Happy Merdeka y'all.. just bumpin in to check out the forum.. missed it a lot.
hms.. wanna try ar? i've got a 320Watter in hand , i dun dare cause:

1. Scared the heat dissipated from the hot side isn't moved away timingly that it will started to heat up the cold side of the pelt.

2. Amb temp in my room is about 32C.. ..

3. letsay 5v on a 12 v 320Watter:

5/12 = 133W .. (assuming the pelt is ideal and delta T is linear)

thus oced proc Watt + Pelt Watt = letsay 115W (Oced Mobile at 2.0V) + 133W
= 248W of heat to dissipate... then again i might be wrong cause theory not always goes along with practice.
in another word... try lar try lar try lar try lar.

hm.... where did u get the TEC and how much does it cost??
i m planning to play with TEC also....

hi guys...wanna ask... if i put my radiator inside an icebox full of ice, can or not eh?...does it do any harms there?....coz wanna try it for sometimes oledi until saw this pic

Not that expensive la.. if not wrong can get it around 800+ ....

u have to becareful if u r going to do this....
condensation will occur if the temp of the water goes few degree below ambient temp....

what water are u using ?? normal water ah?? it wont make the copper waterblock broken??