Ok , PCCrazy, thanks for informing the rest of the changes. Anyway guys based on the article at systemcooling.com, it seems for ordinary loops, a good HMAX & QMAX pump is the recommended must have component when pairing with the Storm G4. Wonder how it'll do with lower end pumps with very short loops in the first place. Would be interesting to know once mine arrives. But I have a feeling that the Cyber Aqua would be able to give the G the muscle that it needs in the 1st place

If you still wanna use the Reserator, I'd suggest finding a way to lose the pump and use a better specced pump cos you'll seriously choke the poor block of sufficient water. A low flow based block like MCW6000 series would suit better if you plan to keep everything stock instead

You have to find out what's the current rating for the pump at the moment. Easiest is to use the general formula of V = I x R to determine what's the required resistance range that would be sufficient for such an application

Can't be helped. If I had one and I fried it, seriously gonna have a very long down time unless I'm willing to use AC pumps instead.

This is why I've always preferred AC based pumps cos at least you have to power it up 1st and know that it runs in the 1st place. And also the fact that crappy gremlins of the PSU won't really affect you

I can imagine the massive restrictions interms of flow rates that block is gonna cause in any loop and plus the fact WC'ing the RAM's aren't worth it in the 1st place since DDR3's are relatively cool running

Totally agree with what sniper said. One mistake doesn't make one give up. One learns. I can bet that many of us WC users have learnt many mistakes which can be costly but we're still at it

Lookie what I found here. Can you guess what's that installed?

Welcome to the most rabid watercooling enthusiast thread about watercooling you will ever find. Let me start off firt in some way to guide you to the basic understanding of WC concepts. Personally and quite a few others, I don't really recommend that you get those pre-made WC sets developed by CM and Tt as they are indeed very mediocre in terms of performance desired. The reason why many of us use WC is to obtain great reductions in temps without the penalty of noise itself (Although in terms of complexity it increases) which many aircooling enthusist have to pay for. Those pre-made sets do not yield much of that desired effect and it is best that you do scout around for bits and bobs which comprises of a watercooling set. We have a few good bulkers who are doing these bulks for time to time (pepijat for the Dangerden products, dinster for swiftech products). We have already obtained a failry reasonable idea about the Tt sets and their biggest flaws are the inefficiencies of the block's design (good at abosrbing heat but waterflow is horrible), terrible radiator design (which is a tube and fin design, good for waterflow, poor for airflow. People usually use bar and fin designs), and the pump which is low in terms of flow rate (QMax) and head pressure (HMax) as well as weak in terms of surviving voltage fluctuations. That's what I've gathered so far about the Tt sets. CM sets you'd have to wait for the few CM WC set users here to give their feedback about it. Corsair sets too. You can always ask ianho about the Corsair sets as well. For a better guide to what you should consider when getting into the WC scene, read the WC guide which me and amok have created in the sticky's section

Cheers

Depends my friend, if a high end block like the Storm G4, DD RBX and so forth, I can't help agree with you. But there's always the lower range versions like Swiftech's MCW6000 series, Dangerden's TDX and Maze 4 series which are still cheap. Comaparatively speaking, my first set of WC parts totalled up about RM500which compirised of a DD Maze 4, Black Ice Pro radiator, Tygon tubings, Nirox P2800 pump, custom made reservoir, and a Everflow 90cfm LED fan. Which is still a very good base which allows easy upgrade routes and experimentations. Something that pre-made kits rarely if do offer. Not to mention all these custom made systems are of 1/2 OD/ID which is still the recommended size compared to Tt's 3/8"

That's why the most important mantra when assembling ANY WC kit pre-made or not is to leak test it for at LEAST 24 hours. Trust me, we all do that. And so far I've never have to face any problems with leaks or similiar tragedy's. And as for pump failure's, prevention is always better then cure. I as a rule always set my warning temps 5C above my load temps and shutdown temps 10C above load temps.

I never said that watercooling was a cheap affair but at the base price I quoted, you'd get something that is at least worth the crossover to WC'ing. Anything below that so far (besides allngaps' kit which we have yet to have the time nor the oppurtunity to test it) has been a failure in our personal opinion. Temps worse then even a decent air cooling solution, hardware being suspect and sheer complications worse then when starting with a DIY kit are the common things we've seen so far.

If you're still not convinced and adamant on using the CM and Tt kits, my only suggestion is this, stick to air cooling solutions as WC'ing is never for the faint hearted but those who dare will reap the benefits.

Ok, I'm corrected over that matter. And yes, 3/8" not bad also. In fact the Europeans prefer to use that as it's a good compromise between flow rate restriction and airflow restriction if based on what I've seen so far actually. However, Cathar in Xtreme has recommended a new type of tubing which I'm not pretty clear about which is about 3/8" ID but has some property's similiar to TYgon's and has rather a smooth inner wall surface. But I'd bet that sort of tubing would cost a bomb

And ianho, I'd suggest you have a look at these charts

Hydor L35? Hmmm....I'd be very careful in choosing that as the heat dump from the pump itself (Going by the known feedback of the Nirox P5800..I think cos allngap used it to test his WC kit) is quite a fair amount and would be of major consideration before trying it

For a second opinion, have a look at this topic at xtreme by Maxxracer about pumps

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=41495

The question is how much the water is heated up by the pump when at normal operation speeds. The pump's heat as in physically can be solved but as to the introduction of that heat into the loop is another.

OK, one time only OT reply, it's possible that the 12v and the 5v rails are still unharmed but it's possible that the 3.3v is a goner or one or a few pins of the 24 pin molexed blew edi. You have to narrow down the possible damages using a DMM

That depends on how commited one can be to the concept of WC'ing. Reliabillity, availabillity , and the abundance of users being able to share their experiences have made more and more users stay onto WC'ing even the compliacations arise as there's always someone willing to help to keep our addiction strong.n Speaking of addiction, I wish dinster's supplier wasn't such an a$$ and get those Storm G4's shipped ASAP

Senang cerita, wait for online reviews or from someone who's using it since right now, not much info on it, no pics of the blocks design and the pumps a Hydor L20

And looks like ray99mond is selling off his Black Ice Xtreme 2 for about RM200/=

You want to know why temps increase?It's cos the pump is only working around 7v instead of the full 12v voltage it needs for max efficiency. And for Bigwater, I'd not recommend going major and using it to cool the VGA and the NB too at the moment as the pump has barely enough flow and head pressure to even cope with those stresses

Ada jugak idup manusia nih. By the way amok, ray99mond is selling off his BIX2 for RM200/=. Ada minat ka?

OTT: Tt Bigwater is of 1/4" ID