WELCOME TO [V4].

Continuation from previous:

Car Care & Detailing [V1]

Car Care & Detailing [V2]

Car Care & Detailing [V3]

Guides, FAQs, etc.
(Articles/Suggestions with links are most welcome)

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Aug 29 2014, 09:35 AM

[-Reserved for TT, Gatherings, Events, etc-]

Detailing TT - 12 Sept 2014 : 9.30pm
Location: Al Barkath Restaurant, Ara Damansara

Just a small gathering of detailing enthusiasts and friends for a chit-chatting and 'teh tarik' session.

All are invited. If you see some detailing stuffs on the table, just head to it and introduce yourself.

Cheerio.

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Sep 10 2014, 08:47 AM

thanks sifu Krismas!

as promised: https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/LzcXTB9DpNg My heart sank when i got back to my car just to discover it being scratched after a meet up session with the folks from Uber at Bangsar.

Disclaimer: "kids do not try this at home"
ideally you'd want to wash the whole car first prior to doing any correction as you risk contaminating the unaffected areas and having a half assed correction as dirt etc contaminates the area you're working on.

i personally am a bit ocd and i couldn't bear to see my beloved car in such state hence i took action immediately even if it's 2am in the morning on a Friday(few hours earlier).

sifu, how frequent did you wash your car ?

WOW....looks like multiple attacks by multiple creatures there!!! Nice save. Ultimate Compound?

Wow those are terrible! My heart would sank too. But then, took action at 2am.. you're really ocd haha. But i see that most scratchs are gone in the end. So what did you do? Compound with hand? Or machine?

Btw, your car looks somewhat... dirty in the picture, for a guy like you haha! You need to finish your stockpiled products yo! Last time i saw your just waxed and BSDed picture, super shine and clean!

And yeah, V4!

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Aug 29 2014, 10:15 AM

Is that your 2nd wife Inspira?

not sifu la and the last time i wash was that youtube video i posted to demo sonax bsd

that was... 3-5 months ago?

ikr? the scratch on TOP of the door handle was just mind boggling. it doesn't matches the "pattern".
my only conclusion is my car being unfortunate meeting REALLY drunk assholes.

Anyways i used ultimate polish, with few more passes since i don't want to risk marring on the unaffected area (again, as i didn't wash down the car/have clean surface to work with)

i used tissue paper mainly for cleaning the affected area with megs final inspection then after polishing also IPA'd it so needed tissue to dry it as the borders of the affected area were beading up (as the protection is still there) and the IPA will leave residue if it happens to flash in a bead lol

and sonax disposable polishing cloth ( still on my 2nd piece after bought so long as i cut it into really small pieces ) as well since i don't feel like washing 3-4 cloths (UP/PB BH/ULW/BSD) just for OCD'd spot corrections.

i noticed that the polishing cloth are more abrasive (or they carry/hold the product better?) than regular MF cloths which reflected when i applied BSD, had to use a tissue paper to buff off BSD which i usually didn't need to for MF cloths.

purely by hand

and yes it's been many months since i've washed my car. i'm "OK" with it since the car beads/sheets water so aggressively every rain (and it washes away the previous dirt automatically every time LOL!) so it's a decent indication that the protection is still there.

heck, when i was ipa'ing the area, megs ULW was still protecting the underneath strongly and all my IPA did initially was "blurring"/"hazing" the wax up. and having beading IPA wasn't a pleasant experience to deal with as:
1) i cannot clean at all
2) i actually have to clean more to get rid of the compromised wax

but yea, after a rain, the shine/cleanliness automatically returns until the left over beads (that couldn't sheet off) will dry and flash into a mild watermark

i'm single, so i guess first?

Congrats on V4..!!!

Sorry master zerosp I bought OPC already.. I have made arrangement before knowing that you have stock.. Huhuhu

Met master krismas bought GG red, MF Applicator, Enviro and get free sample of Sonax *ehem ehem*.. Very nice and soft spoken guy.. Thanks master!!

Aiyo...no need for the "*ehem ehem*" la....it's just the Sonax BSD....nothing special. Anyway, next time we'll meet up properly so can chit chat la. Looks like we're both in a quite hurry today...

Bought this


Ace Hardware no stock/discontinued for halogen lamp with stand.. So frustrated..

So I bought PVC pipe.. With some help from unker gugel

Become this



Halogen lamp 500W - Hot enough until halogen inner rubber burn ady.. Need to find LED pulak..

This post has been edited by roxx: Sep 20 2014, 09:51 AM

but BSD is SO f***ING GOOD

i'm amazed ULW is still alive after so long that i had troubles IPA'ing it off

Lol.. Mana tau someone eyeing this thread..

Yeah.. Too bad.. Next time we shall meet again again again....

I cannot find BSD in local hypermarket. Do they have it in HQ - Glenmarie?

Jauh la from my house..

i bought from sonax hq during their promotion wut

Guys, may I know what do u use to clean interior windows that has 'greasy film' ?

Saw this 'ArmorAll glass cleaner for 16 ringgit, worth the buy? Or should I invest more in Meguiars glass cleaner?

Oh, my windows are tinted if that makes a difference ( tint vs glass surface)

Also, any idea how much Meguiars MPC is? Or any alternative? Saw someone on youtube swear by it, spray on, scrub off easily for tires

This post has been edited by jedi_dc: Aug 29 2014, 06:53 PM

Meguiars D101 All Purpose Cleaner 1Gal is RM121 from Hypercoat Malaysia. Alternatives would be like Optimum Power Cleaner, Duragloss #401, Osren Multi Cleaner 4L (RM40 btw).

For tinted glass, it is recommended that you use an ammonia-free glass cleaner. Most over the counter automotive glass cleaners are ammonia-free but pricey in Malaysia. Ace Hardware sells a variety in the glass cleaner section. Osren's Glass Cleaner is RM38 for 4L. Meguiars Detailers Line D120 Glass Cleaner Concentrate is RM168. Happy Shopping !!

No problem

Can this be considered as a compliment for its durability?

This post has been edited by scoutfai: Aug 29 2014, 10:30 PM

Some of you might interest, some might not.



Ignore the left toilet bowl brush, a bit too stiff. Maybe for wheel well inner, but still I prefer something softer.

The long boom brush on the right, in my opinion is not soft. Whether it is hard or not is subjective. I personally prefer something softer. But still it can be a suitable wheel spoke brush in some hands. Most importantly, it is so cheap. RM2.30, you can change a new one every month.
Other pros about this brush is the center core is wrapped by non-metal material so chances of scratching the paint of the wheel due to the center metal is very low. Nevertheless, do bear in mind that I do not say there is no risk you might scratch from the bristle, although I think it is unlikely. The boom is also expandable, you can see two buttons there to lock it in place. I will intend to use this for the super tight space between the front disc break caliper and the wheel rim inner wall surface near the caliper, often time any decent brush after some usage at this tight space will deform in shape (bristle), with this super cheap brush I do not mind replacing it every month.

Product from Mr. DIY

This post has been edited by scoutfai: Aug 29 2014, 10:38 PM

beautiful! so you mean you did a 3 step?
1st: UC + orange LC
2nd: DG501 + white LC
3rd: DG501 + black LC
nice info on the paint outcome if using only a single combination! so you in the end did it all for your whole car? how long did it take?

Meg glass cleaner got 20% discount now~! at selected AEON

Ace Hardware really sells wayyyy too much brands causing me to have real difficulty choosing anything if i didn't research (read reviews) before hand on certain brands.

the toilet bowl brush usually is really quite stiff, i was hunting before and toilet bowl's one all out.

did some shopping today...

i got chance to try out a bit on the ultramate machine while i was there at Osren. no back plate, just plug in electric and switch on, wanna feel the vibration. really quite vibrating lols. and also went on to touch all their MF cloths there to feel it. i would say they're all very plush, especially the more expensive one. its definitely better than PG's cloth. The cheapest Osren MF feels already better than the one from Daiso, so i now would get Osren's one if i'm getting new MF cloth. now i dunno where to put (rate) the MF that comes with Meg ULW.. oh i also saw there seems to be some new products in their show room, blue labelling one, not seen on their website yet. i think its a one-step compound/polish/wax product.

AEON Wangsa maju still got Meg's product on 20% discount, i got myself Meg endurance gel & glass cleaner as above. what i saw there still got UC, UP, UQD, UQL, one last UPW. no more ULW. see picture and decide if you want to grab'em


also this aeon got quite some 3M's spray type product, anyone here used before?


oh, also wanted to show what happens to my side mirror after a long distance drive at night time. i hate bugs.

Yes. 3 step for testing..

For heavy correction then I need to use these combos. But for non corrected paint I will only use DG501 or OHP for 1 step..

Wanted to test DG105 TPP as 1 step but no stock available right now..

Actually I haven't completed whole car.. Do it when I got free time..

Quazacolt *can't wait to test BSD*

either the bsd or ulw, or how the glaze is sticking the wax on it... i don't know.

i know they work really well together lol

Hi guys... disturb again. I got my new car but thinking of to coat or not to coat. If I don't coat. What is the next step I should take to take care of the paint.

Thank you again sifus

I see you put my old faithful to good use, well done my friend.

Do update me on the OHP performance.

Not sifu here but, wash, clay, wax, and there after wash regularly i would say.

would like to ask.. what's the difference between Meg's QDetailer and QWax application ? both looks the same from the product description, although i feel that QD has more cleaning properties and QW has more protection properties..

so by right one should wash the car and apply QD first then QW ?

btw.. anyone went to the Meg's fair at Sepang over this weekend ?

efaceninja Very nice haul there Is that the chamois leather drying cloth? Also, how much is the foam applicator pad?

This post has been edited by thom_chai: Aug 30 2014, 12:22 PM

thanks ninja bro... I'm going thru some pages in auto geek and saw permanon coating that i can DIY. any idea where i can find some? Maybe in penang.. .or maybe even other product! thanks

Right on the functions and steps of the 2 products. But after a wash, you'd probably only need Quik Detailer for some spots that you missed during wash.

Try Permanon Malaysia. Or Queensbay Mall Ace Hardware perhaps?

This post has been edited by LazyJin: Aug 30 2014, 05:28 PM

bro, u from penang too? can u pls kindly share the type of products u use here in penang and where to get it?

thanks

Yes usually I will remove all these brushes from my consideration also. But this one I bought because when I touch it through the plastic wrap it feels soft, plus the price so cheap. so I give it a try.

Where do you get your Meguiar's Detailer line product?

Regarding the Ultramate DA, you cannot just turn on the machine without backing plate and pad, the vibration will be different, and is expected to be more severe in this case. So you must have the backing plate attached on, at least this is the minimum, if pad is not available. 5" backing plate in my opinion gives the best smoothness to the Ultramate compare to 6" plate.

I see you have two brochures of Meguiar's. One of them I also have which I took from Ace Hardware.
The other one with the car as cover, what is it? where do you get it?

This post has been edited by scoutfai: Aug 30 2014, 07:04 PM

1st step, regardless u coat or not, learn proper washing methods and techniques. Even if you coat, proper washing is THE MOST important step to get right.

You've just answered your own question there.

. that is a waffle weave MF cloth for drying. the foam pad is RM 4 per piece.

no idea lols. i not yet looking into coating yet.

yup true on the DA's vibration test, the weight of the spinning part will be different and therefore vibration diff. if weight increase, vib will increase i suppose. but i don't want to trouble too much on mr heng who served me there since i'm not going to buy it that day anyways lol.

the brochure with car as cover is Meg's Professional line products brochure, meaning Detailers & Mirror Glaze one. i got my D155 from Hypercoat, and also the 2 brochures haha.

thanks bro

i've read a bit about 2 bucket system, MF mitts for washing, waffle cloth for drying and claying.

read only la. haven't gone out to buy yet. still trying to see what combination is good for newbie. easy to apply and all.

thanks again bro krismas! PG is harder to find products. mostly are Kit and soft99

From KL.

Like bro efaceninja mentioned, Aeon is having 20% off Meguiars. I think there's one in Penang. In fact, might be in Queensbay Mall. And while you're there, why not check out Ace Hardware?

If you're on a real tight budget and don't mind researching, go through the Automotive Garage in these forums, loads of members selling care care products.

psst psst, the meg 20% should be applicable to queensbay Aeon too. https://www.facebook.com/meguiarsmy/photos/...elevant_count=1. you can go grab the Meg's brilliant new car kit

for cheaper product, probably you can try out turtlewax? i personally never used it before la. for claying, cheapest one i believe is PG's wonder clay, get the no.2 one. that day i saw at AEON also they have PG clay kit, aka a bottle of PG Quick Detailer (as clay lube) and a box of clay for RM 39.90. KIT brand i personally don't really like it. as for soft99, my problem with soft99 is it just got wayyyyyyyy too much similar product choices there, and their product naming is super confusing, plus their product instruction/function explanation is mostly too generic or just plain Japanese words..

you can see my some of my newbie questions that i've asked before..

Thanks bro Ninja. Read thru your noobie post and found it really nice. Will start doing all these if i managr to get myself some products. Did u use any sort of coating as LSP?

Hi guys , need your expertise , how can I remove this stain on my solid white paint ? urghh ... any products recommend to remove this ? Is this called watermark ?

Thanks

Nope not into coating yet. So far my LSP just Meg Ulti Liq Wax, plus ulti quik wax sometimes after wash.

biotin Looks like watermarks with tons of dirt around it . Give it a good wash + clay should do the job. Or u could wash + use compound to buff it off ( Meg's ultimate compound works wonders). However, if its clear-coat etching from acid water .. u got to do paint correction

Saw this video, and I will never achieve such a clean car by myself ( not enough energy )

120 hours.. 4 hours and i'm already dying from hand-compounding + window cleaning



This post has been edited by jedi_dc: Aug 31 2014, 10:09 PM

20% memang ada. But no more combo lur. Dunno whattttt to buy so I got the meg ultimate quik detailer and a bottle of PG neutral car wash. Enuf ar for the time being?

@jedi_dc

Gulp.. Should i just clay myself , if its taking a lot of time, i guess no choice nees to send to detailing shoo to fix it.. Huhu

biotin couldnt see clearly from your image to know what type of stains u had on your paint..

First we need to know your paint condition.. Then we need to know type of water spots (if that was water spots) that u had..

Type 1 water spots - u can use those water spot remover from the shelf (aeon/ace hardware/etc)

Type 2 water spots - u can use ultimate compound whether by hand or machine.. Use it wisely

Type 3 water spots - etching into clear coat and I'm not sure can be remove. I have one on my car paint..

Honestly for me claying wont remove water spots.. I have so many type 2 and claying wont remove them..

Remember. Using ultimate compound will cut your clear coat.. So if I were u, i will use something less abrasive first to remove the stain (since I dont know which type u had)

Previously I use UC to remove my type 2 ws and after doing some research, how I wish i use Duragloss Water Spots remover first before UC.. More effective and more safer to clear coat..

Choice is yours.. Patient.. Learn and decide.. Im still learning so hope if Im wrong, sifu please correct me ya..

Yes master zerosp your old faithful friend had served me well.. Pair with his best friend opt double sided red foam = mama mia !!

Or try CarPro Spotless Remover (or equivalent)

Good... The OHP still good to go?

Still good.. Eventhough water splashes (just like the foam pad is in wet mode) but still contains oil.. So i just buff it (the water splash) and its good to go.. Wipe with mf and done.. Gloss and slickness appear.. Booyahh..!!

Hi guys

Just wanna share what i did

1. Loosen all the dirt on my new car (ald use 1 week without wash)

2. Start with 2 bucket system with some PG PH neutral car shampoo

3. After washing, dried the car with a waffle MF

4. Mist wit Meg's Ult Quik Detailer

(Didn't clay cos the surface very smooth still - but got some paint defects but no polish)

End effect that I got was this:







So now I'm happy with the results of my morning, I want to find out what should i proceed to next?

my current considerations are:

1. Meg's wash & wax
2. Meg's Ult liquid wax
3. 3M or PG clay bar
4. Meg's PlastX - for tinted window
5. Meg's Ult Polish

Still do not know what to go for to clean dashboard and lelather seats.

Did also look at Osren and Duragloss products. Became too @.@


Any comments are welcomed. TQ guys


This post has been edited by d_scientist: Sep 1 2014, 04:27 PM

Nice

Haven't try Osren before. But I can recommend Duragloss.. Try before and amaze with it..

Currently using DG501. For me I'm satisfied with the beading and water repellent effect on my car.. But once applied it's hard to wash the foam pad..

not bad. not bad. and your consideration 1-5
1. Meg UWW for me is quite good. I used PG's concentrated shampoo before, and also PG's Wash & Wax Polymer before. i can tell you the PG Wash & Wax will give you nice gloss/shine right after you wash your car compared to just the PG shampoo. the Meg UWW shine even better! so for me, i would go with Meg UWW. or you can try other brand's wash & wax.

2. Meg ULW for me is quite superb. the price is not superb though. i never use other waxes before so i can't really compare. the only one i used before is the KIT Metallic wax and it is just mehhh. but then, i think very very very important is you MUST clay your car before waxing it (even your new ride)

3. 3M bar where you find it? i last time when searching online, read that lots of china fake 3M clay bar (very cheap) on market, not sure if its true. i would rather stick with PG claybar rather than risk buying fake clay bar (and rub the fake thing on your beloved car!). and as for clay lube, i just use shampoo water mix (before). you can use your PG Shampoo, fill some into a generic spray bottle, and spray away. OR, just use clean MF cloth/wash mitt as 'lube dispenser' lols. Sifu here thought me before the UQD that you have now is not really suitable as clay lube.

4. never used this before. but what do you mean PlasticX for tinted window? window is glass no?

5. UP. i have this as well. hmmm so far used once, by hand. not really sure if it is effective to use by hand though. if apply by machine the effect should be great. but since your car is new, i think its okay. the cutting power is really minimum so i think its safe for your new ride

dashboard & leather seats i would use APC (any brand), spray wipe (or brush) and clean. i just bought Osren's for this. then apply those dashboard dressing product for the shine. i'm using meg ulti protectant.

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Sep 1 2014, 11:25 PM

Guys for cleaning my wheel wells i am thinking of spraying in APC+ Megs and let it sit for few seconds then hose it down with pressure jet. And dress with meguairs all season shine. what do you think? my car on the rear has felt like wheel wells (like fabric/velcro)

One step at a time. Clay bar you can do fine with PG.

Duragloss Aquawax is good.

Meg's wise I cannot recommend as I don't use them. But shampoo why not you try out our Optimum one?



And by the way, 2 years of Opti Glass Pro holding.



This post has been edited by ZeroSP: Sep 2 2014, 06:36 AM

Thats alot of product shooping.....


Im from Penang but i just move to KL not long for work, u can get Meguair's from all the Parkson Outlet & Ace Hardware at Queensbay. Previously I also bought my Meguair's from SPICE Arena which is PISA, there is a car wash that uses Meguair's and they are selling products as well, but Im not sure after the renovation are they still going on their business or not. Other then that there some quiet supplier that supply some factory products for paint shop and I used some of the gallon wax previously.


Thats a nice tuch!!

Its dangerous to shoot video while driving regardless what speed.

Also need to reach 90km/h above only see the water beading ? If 60-80kmh can or not ?

Just want to share my experience and from this detailing session I've learned a lot..

My friend wanted me to help restore his paint on Chevy Aveo..

Upon Arrival







Left right and rear panel still okay. But need to do paint correction to enhance glossiness. Then I was so shocked to see this..

This is where things started to get interesting. Look at the front bonnet. Can you see anything?



Didn't know the color on front bonnet mati already (oxidation)

More



No gloss at all



Masking to see the severity of the paint and for testing



(Forgot to take 'after' image for this test )

To be continued

Continued from above..

Session starts with washing using megs GCWW + OPC + wash mitt + 2 bucket system + GG and clay using PG no 2. To my shock again, during claying process no contamination pick up on the front bonnet. I was like

Before - Close Up but no reflection at all



After several pass with UC and makita + orange pad (50/50)



My left hand is missing..!!!

Continue to polish the front bonnet and still unable to remove the oxidation on the passenger side. I was so frustrated and finally took out OPT double sided wool pad + UC and begin to work. War started between me and the chevy. Yeahhhh

After



Driver side



Passenger side



Driver's door



Passenger's door



Rear spoiler before



After



Okay la for newbie like me lol

Saja letak logo kereta.. Later expert ady can letak logo Ferrari pulak



Lesson learned from this detailing session and I hope I will not repeat the same mistakes again !!

- Not all paint carries the same type of oxidation - I thought all oxidation is the same. Just apply UC and all done. It took me 2 days just to correct the front bonnet with 1 full bottle of UC

- Need to use correct pair for correction - I was using CCS light cutting orange pad when I should use wool pad or at least yellow pad. This wrong combination cost me time wasted and product wasted. Only started to use wool pad on 2nd day

- Less pass per section - I should work at least 6 to 8 passes instead I only do 3 to 4 passes for each section. Then I top up UC on pad and continue to polish on the same section. This created more product applied thus dryness created and hard to wipe off (left thick residue on the bonnet and pad)

- I only use speed 2 for cutting

- Did not overlap on each section - created boxes. Aiyohhh

- I have wasted so many things including my cuti day..

So in the end, I use OPT wool pad + UC (2nd bottle) and work on each section until I can see glossiness on the paint. This time I do 8 to 10 passes at least with speed 3 to 4 for cutting and finally I was able to remove the oxidation.

both door panel and rear using OHP + Opt red foam and 5'5 / 3' pad for curve and small area

*Actually to be honest, I was nervous because this is my first time detailing others car and not my own.. lol

Any comments and feedback appreciated. Thanks

This post has been edited by roxx: Sep 2 2014, 02:45 PM

wow very nice~~! the front bonnet from 'matte' till become gloss and shiny again! you used 2 days ah? wow, so much time even for rotary? i see that you mentioned you used wrong product/pad combo for the oxidized paint. 1 UC completely on the front bonnet (OUCH RM 70 ) bookmarking this page because of this lesson learnt info

the front bonnet did you finish off another pass with OHP too (like what you did on door panel and rear)? btw is OHP stands for Optimum Hyper Polish? you seal of with any LSP? The rear spoiler feels like can be improved more? i mean, seeing from the picture la and you got a rotary man. anyway, good detailing session!

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Sep 2 2014, 02:08 PM

Thats a great pcs of work!!
If could share a picture of your product like would be WOW!

Thanks bro

Yes. I used my 2 precious days working on it. By right I should use wool pad at first day but dunno why I use light orange cutting pad..

Even though using rotary, I used wrong technique by doing less pass instead of 6/8 or 8/10 or maybe more passes for heavy (or extreme?) oxidation. Plus with wrong combination use - took me 2 days to complete.

Oh another thing I forgot to add - I just use speed 1 to spread and speed 2 to cut whereas I should use speed 3 (that day I use until speed 4) to cut heavy oxidation (my personal preference only ya)

On 2nd day, I realized if I keep using this technique I will end up weeks before able to restore the paint. So I took wool pad, buy another UC (was thinking to buy rubbing compound), do more passes with speed 3 to 4 and voila.

*This it the lesson I've learned for future and I will use this experienced to improve my skills.. Booyahhh..!!*

On front bonnet and roof I finish off with DG501. Door and rear I use OHP only (1 step) and yes it is Optimum Hyper Spray. Was thinking to add Enviroshield but 501 & OHP has good water sheeting / beading already

Actually the rear spoiler can be restore further but my friend want it that look he said like 'matte' look..

Thanks bro for your comment

Alamak sorry bro.. Didn't take picture of the product used.. Silly me

I know it is dangerous, I don't have a holder.

But claiming that it only beads away at that speed just because I filmed it that time? Opti Glass Pro beads around 50-70 km/h depending on the direction where the rain hits you, as you may experienced. Next time if got chance I will use a holder and record from standstill.

It is at that speed in this video because I am on MEX, and it just suddenly rain all hell once I cross that certain border, and before I approach there I still thinking why the upcoming road like so blur and hazy, mana tau is heavy rain.

I can do a free windscreen coat for you, in exchange for a review, since most of the cars I coated are not detailing enthusiast, they don't tell me nothing.

This post has been edited by ZeroSP: Sep 2 2014, 04:09 PM

Free windscreen coat? I'll do review anytime master..

lol joking only haa..

soft99 offers pretty decent budget clays.

and i happen to be able to read some japanese

maybe got mount ma... i got a lot of videos are really extreme speeds anyways lol

good job there bro

Thank You master..

where got master la lol, also student myself

Actually I have tested 2 types. CarPro FlyBy30 and Gtechniq G1.

Both can work around 80km/hr. But I think there is a trick to get all these glass coating working....

1. Would be the windscreen, the more tilt it is the better.
2. Wind factor. The stronger the wind the water can repel faster at lower speed.

That's just my observation.

So you should notice that most of this windscreen coating youtube video, there is no car at least 50m in front of the car.

i like the Meg's recyclable bag that they gave. i believe those gallon & 4L products can last me a long long time and therefore its cheaper for me in the long run, especially the Osren's one. just pop opened D155 yesterday, i can't say i appreciate the smell at all lols.

and look at my self-printed product label.. hehe..


bolded part
if it beads like that at 90km/h AFTER 2 yrs of application, i think it is pretty awesome man? in between the 2 years, no reapply anything? how's the maintenance required?? i mean, i only have my experience on DuraZ. first week apply, first rain, it start to beads at about 70 km/h like that. after a few wiper usage, a few weeks, a few more rains, it start to beads at 80, then 90, and slowly diminish after roughly about 2-3 weeks/rain lols.

i think that's pretty alright. give it a few brush work should be better i guess.

Why not?

No reapply anything... Just weekly wash with either ONR or Opti Car Shampoo. Of course I do further wipe down the all windows/windscreen with ONR QD since I wanted streak free. Cause usually when you dry your car you just go over like 95%, then you only go back to touch up later on.

Bro where do you get the blue bottle?

Do you stay somewhere around Cheras area?

Tell me time and date master..

Find a place that is suitable first lol.

I read that apc+ is stronger than apc but doesn't have much foam. Any examples what component suitable for apc and apc+? Also to spray on the wheel wheels I can do it using a bottle nozzle? As I don't have a lance gun or so

Also hypercoat only sell them in bulk?

This post has been edited by nVidiaFX: Sep 2 2014, 11:44 PM

Checked a couple of months ago with Hypercoat Malaysia and they never brought in the APC Plus. Also, it is now only available in 5 gal or 55 gal sizes in the US, they discontinued the 1 gal size.

Either APC or APC+ are safe on wheel wells. I use a small bucket with diluted APC and my wheel brushes for wheels and wheel wells. You can use it with a sprayer as well.

However, a degreaser may be more effective at cleaning wheel wells.

To all sifus and masters.. Need your kind advise..

Previously I used too many dg501 on my white pad (lesson learned). End up it's very hard to clean the pad (talk about durability eh?)

Try using dg UO (degreaser) also unable to remove the oils resides on the pad.. The chemical unable to 'penetrate' into it (hmmm....)

Since its hard to find pad cleaner in our local store, I used dishwashing soap (sunlight) and to my shock, it removes the oils but still left a bit green blue-ish color which ok for me..

Now the millionaire question.. Can I use the pad again? I scared that the dishwashing detergent still left on the pad thus will affect my next polishing process.. I have rinsed thoroughly but still had that bumpy feelings about it.. Please help. Thanks

Nope not around cheras. The blue one i got from Osren recently.

No abrasive in dishwashing detergent so you should be ok
hehehe....shouldn't cause any problem la. Used to use dishwashing detergent for quite some times and so far my polishing pads are still sound.

A little suggestion for cleaning those difficult-to-clean sealants/AIO/glaze from pads, etc. - Dawn Power Dissolver. You can use it straight but I've been using it at 1:1 dilution and it still work (especially in this case cuz DPD is a little on the expensive side). Spray liberally onto the face of pad, leave it for NO MORE than 1/2 hour to let it work and soak into the pad, squeeze and agitate with your finger. Blast the pad with a pressure washer, if you don't have one use your garden hose at fan setting or strong jet, or just squeeze and rinse under the kitchen tap. So far DPD had never failed me. Just take note NEVER leave it to soak overnight or for more than an hour cuz it would deteriorate the foam/sponge. Oh...another thing...DPD would require much more rinsing as compared to dish washing liquid so...well...just take note of it la.

This pad (Megs Finishing pad) was loaded with residue of Megs M21 (also some dirt) and M21 (a little purplish in colour) is notorious in staining pads and difficult to clean. I've already used the pad for some times before decided to 'experiment' with DPD. And believe me when I said it's even more difficult to clean M21 off the pads as compared to DG501.

until today i havent seen any clay from Soft99 yet!


How much u got it fo for the gallons?Still scared to buy those gallons!

This post has been edited by kalvinkhoo: Sep 3 2014, 09:55 AM

The DIY product label printing is a real nice touch