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 Car Care and Detailing [V4], Caring for your car apprearance

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ZeroSP
post Aug 29 2014, 10:17 PM

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QUOTE(roxx @ Aug 29 2014, 03:59 PM)
Congrats on V4..!!!

Sorry master zerosp I bought OPC already.. I have made arrangement before knowing that you have stock.. Huhuhu

Met master krismas bought GG red, MF Applicator, Enviro and get free sample of Sonax *ehem ehem*.. Very nice and soft spoken guy.. Thanks master!!
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No problem smile.gif
ZeroSP
post Aug 30 2014, 11:50 AM

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QUOTE(roxx @ Aug 30 2014, 02:32 AM)
Yes. 3 step for testing..

For heavy correction then I need to use these combos. But for non corrected paint I will only use DG501 or OHP for 1 step..

Wanted to test DG105 TPP as 1 step but no stock available right now..

Actually I haven't completed whole car.. Do it when I got free time..  doh.gif

Quazacolt *can't wait to test BSD*  rclxm9.gif  rclxm9.gif
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I see you put my old faithful to good use, well done my friend.

Do update me on the OHP performance.
ZeroSP
post Sep 1 2014, 02:47 AM

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QUOTE(roxx @ Sep 1 2014, 01:52 AM)
biotin couldnt see clearly from your image to know what type of stains u had on your paint..

First we need to know your paint condition.. Then we need to know type of water spots (if that was water spots) that u had..

Type 1 water spots - u can use those water spot remover from the shelf (aeon/ace hardware/etc)

Type 2 water spots - u can use ultimate compound whether by hand or machine.. Use it wisely

Type 3 water spots - etching into clear coat and I'm not sure can be remove. I have one on my car paint..

Honestly for me claying wont remove water spots.. I have so many type 2 and claying wont remove them..

Remember. Using ultimate compound will cut your clear coat.. So if I were u, i will use something less abrasive first to remove the stain (since I dont know which type u had)

Previously I use UC to remove my type 2 ws and after doing some research, how I wish i use Duragloss Water Spots remover first before UC.. More effective and more safer to clear coat..

Choice is yours.. Patient.. Learn and decide.. Im still learning so hope if Im wrong, sifu please correct me ya..
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Or try CarPro Spotless Remover (or equivalent)

QUOTE(roxx @ Sep 1 2014, 02:05 AM)
Yes master zerosp your old faithful friend had served me well.. Pair with his best friend opt double sided red foam = mama mia !!
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Good... The OHP still good to go?
ZeroSP
post Sep 2 2014, 06:11 AM

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QUOTE(d_scientist @ Sep 1 2014, 04:25 PM)
Hi guys

Just wanna share what i did

1. Loosen all the dirt on my new car (ald use 1 week without wash)

2. Start with 2 bucket system with some PG PH neutral car shampoo

3. After washing, dried the car with a waffle MF

4. Mist wit Meg's Ult Quik Detailer

(Didn't clay cos the surface very smooth still - but got some paint defects but no polish)

End effect that I got was this:

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

So now I'm happy with the results of my morning, I want to find out what should i proceed to next?

my current considerations are:

1. Meg's wash & wax
2. Meg's Ult liquid wax
3. 3M or PG clay bar
4. Meg's PlastX - for tinted window
5. Meg's Ult Polish

Still do not know what to go for to clean dashboard and lelather seats.

Did also look at Osren and Duragloss products. Became too @.@
Any comments are welcomed. TQ guys
notworthy.gif  notworthy.gif  notworthy.gif
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One step at a time. Clay bar you can do fine with PG.

Duragloss Aquawax is good.

Meg's wise I cannot recommend as I don't use them. But shampoo why not you try out our Optimum one?



And by the way, 2 years of Opti Glass Pro holding.



This post has been edited by ZeroSP: Sep 2 2014, 06:36 AM
ZeroSP
post Sep 2 2014, 03:47 PM

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QUOTE(g88 @ Sep 2 2014, 11:02 AM)
Its dangerous to shoot video while driving regardless what speed.

Also need to reach 90km/h above only see the water beading ? If 60-80kmh can or not ?  rolleyes.gif
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I know it is dangerous, I don't have a holder.

But claiming that it only beads away at that speed just because I filmed it that time? Opti Glass Pro beads around 50-70 km/h depending on the direction where the rain hits you, as you may experienced. Next time if got chance I will use a holder and record from standstill.

It is at that speed in this video because I am on MEX, and it just suddenly rain all hell once I cross that certain border, and before I approach there I still thinking why the upcoming road like so blur and hazy, mana tau is heavy rain.

I can do a free windscreen coat for you, in exchange for a review, since most of the cars I coated are not detailing enthusiast, they don't tell me nothing.

This post has been edited by ZeroSP: Sep 2 2014, 04:09 PM
ZeroSP
post Sep 2 2014, 08:18 PM

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QUOTE(roxx @ Sep 2 2014, 04:16 PM)
Free windscreen coat? I'll do review anytime master..

lol joking only haa..  notworthy.gif
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Why not?

QUOTE(efaceninja @ Sep 2 2014, 07:29 PM)
biggrin.gif  cool2.gif  cool2.gif  i like the Meg's recyclable bag that they gave.  i believe those gallon & 4L products can last me a long long time and therefore its cheaper for me in the long run, especially the Osren's one.  just pop opened D155 yesterday, i can't say i appreciate the smell at all lols.

and look at my self-printed product label.. hehe..
user posted image
drool.gif bolded part drool.gif
if it beads like that at 90km/h AFTER 2 yrs of application, i think it is pretty awesome man?  in between the 2 years, no reapply anything? how's the maintenance required??  i mean, i only have my experience on DuraZ.  first week apply, first rain, it start to beads at about 70 km/h like that. after a few wiper usage, a few weeks, a few more rains, it start to beads at 80, then 90, and slowly diminish after roughly about 2-3 weeks/rain lols.
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No reapply anything... Just weekly wash with either ONR or Opti Car Shampoo. Of course I do further wipe down the all windows/windscreen with ONR QD since I wanted streak free. Cause usually when you dry your car you just go over like 95%, then you only go back to touch up later on.
ZeroSP
post Sep 2 2014, 09:57 PM

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QUOTE(roxx @ Sep 2 2014, 09:23 PM)
Bro where do you get the blue bottle?

Do you stay somewhere around Cheras area?
Tell me time and date master..  drool.gif  drool.gif
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Find a place that is suitable first lol.
ZeroSP
post Sep 5 2014, 09:45 PM

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QUOTE(g88 @ Sep 5 2014, 01:46 PM)
Aside choose to wash using garden house or water pressure, what cleaner chemical, brushes to use...etc

Its good to invest such a device user posted image

This will really help to ensure all the socket are properly dry (no need unplug to blow) before you restart your engine...

Also washing engine should be FAST ! Dun let the chemical sit too long on the surface (regards plastic or any engine compartment)...also NOT advisable to use STRONG chemical which might faded or burn up the engine part surface....
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I have a Makita one... Serving me well
ZeroSP
post Sep 6 2014, 05:29 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jul 30 2014, 03:21 PM)
coating is cheap, what isn't cheap, is the correction steps/prep work/labor/expertise etc that's done prior/during the coating.

and of course those x years warranty that's covered? that's taken into the cost as well.

minus all that, it's actually just few hundred RM even after shipping and even after tax if you're unlucky to get taxed.
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This should be remembered by all, especially those that are saying people overcharge them for such a job.

"If you think it is not worth the money, kindly DIY."

This post has been edited by ZeroSP: Sep 6 2014, 05:30 PM
ZeroSP
post Sep 7 2014, 12:38 PM

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QUOTE(roxx @ Sep 6 2014, 10:56 PM)
Let me clarify on this..

DG501 : Polish - Clean - Sealant (AIO) product

DG105 : Polish - ??

For wax : DG Aquawax (wax only spray type)

I used DG501 and I never bother to wax my car after wash.. Just use spray wax (maybe I will or not) as a topper on my next wash..

Hope this helps..

Anyway today want to go KD to get OCW but due to bad traffic unable to reach there on time.. Aiyohhh..
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Aquawax is a sealant.
ZeroSP
post Sep 7 2014, 10:50 PM

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QUOTE(KrisMas @ Sep 7 2014, 07:58 PM)
Sorry to see this happened. Unfortunately, i can't think of any easy way of rectifying that. Need to sand down and compound/polish the spot, and might possibly need to re-do also. But, saying that, I know little of toucing-up, so let other chime in also la.
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Sanding down then re-compound and polish is the way.
ZeroSP
post Sep 12 2014, 04:08 PM

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roxx Your items are ready.
ZeroSP
post Sep 21 2014, 08:23 PM

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Bro roxx, how is the newly acquired product so far?
ZeroSP
post Sep 22 2014, 03:36 PM

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QUOTE(roxx @ Sep 22 2014, 03:28 PM)
user posted image

Master zerosp Optimum product that I bought from you really disappoint me. Can you imagine previously it took hours for me to wash my car but now since using ONR it took me minutes to complete whole car?

Waxing also same problem. Last time wax and buff took me almost 1 1/2 hour. Not considering residue left on the paint. But since using OCWax I used 15 minutes tops whole car.. No need to buff lagi.. Clean and protect

Optimum Instant detailer lagi worst.. I accidentally over diluted (1:31/2) instead of 1:3 but still produce glossy and can feel the slickness.. Summore I only use 100ml for whole car..

user posted image

Ok la joke aside ya.. Sorry.. I can say that ONR OCW and OID really made my day.. By far this is the best product I have used (unless anyone can give me free sample of other product for review ya  sweat.gif  )

Optimum No Rinse

ONR took me minutes to complete. I was so shocked when my first attempt ONR able to pick up grit and placed it under GG. Never had this before in my washing bucket. Not with my previous 3 other products.

Forgot to snap photo pulak  doh.gif

note: I was wrong at first place where I rinse the car first before using ONR. But it still able to pick up grit very well and still complete within an hour.  thumbup.gif

Instruction on the label - 1oz (30ml):2 gallon but I think next wash I'm gonna use 1/2oz : 1 gallon and see how it goes.

From my opinion-

Pros:

Easy to use and save time (Seriously it does)

Able to pick up grit better than others

Able to reduce water mark due to rinseless wash

Best use for claying (normally I use car shampoo but does not lubricate like ONR)

Cons:

Sometimes I missed a spot since ONR does not produce soapy foam..

Not sure if the car is in heavy soiled state, will the abrasive transfer in the same panel?
Optimum Car Wax

Pros:

Feels that OCW creates a thick protection on the surface.. I don't get the same feeling with megs UQW

Easy to use. No buffing required and no residue left in the gap

Cons:

None at the moment. Let see how long the durability can last  nod.gif

Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer

Was planning to dilute in a spray bottle instead of in a gallon size bottle. Took out measurement cup and pour 200ml of OID and accidentally mix with 700ml of water (it should be 600ml - 1:3) so i get 900ml of OID.  doh.gif

But when sprayed to paint I can see the glossiness appear during wiping. The best feeling I've ever had.

Pros:

Easy to apply

Buy concentrate can dilute = save monehhh  rclxm9.gif

Can see the glossiness and feel the slickness on the paint

Cons:

Bubble gum smell. Attract flying bugs  tongue.gif

That's all I can say about these 3 product. I haven't try OPP. But looking at these 3, I believe OPP also works charm.  notworthy.gif
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It is ok to over dilute OID a bit.

Car Wax wise, generally 3 months durability not a problem.

ONR wise, if heavily soiled, before pre-rinse I will spray entire car down with Opti Clean waterless wash.
ZeroSP
post Sep 22 2014, 05:57 PM

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QUOTE(roxx @ Sep 22 2014, 04:38 PM)
Thanks master..

Another thing.. Is it advisable to remove orange peel then apply OOC?
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Like I mentioned that day when we met, it looks good but too much to sacrifice. I'd rather live with it lol.
ZeroSP
post Sep 23 2014, 12:15 AM

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roxx Just Opti Coated my friend's new City. One pass with Flex paired with Opt Red Foam + Opt Hyper Polish. Ok, Flex not mine... Borrowed from shop.

user posted image

Hmmm, not the best... but one pass boleh tahan la.
user posted image


user posted image

New city got so many curves and angles
user posted image


user posted image

Nah roxx, Orange Peel zoomed for you lol
user posted image

Still ok la
user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image
ZeroSP
post Sep 23 2014, 02:33 AM

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QUOTE(roxx @ Sep 23 2014, 01:25 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


cry.gif  cry.gif  poison summore..

Saw that orange peel on your friend's car.. Not sure I can live with that on mine.. thinking.. thinking.. thinking.. rclxub.gif

Anyway, nice work master zerosp .. How was it with flex?
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Flex oh well... I rike~~~

But I can't afford.
ZeroSP
post Sep 23 2014, 09:55 AM

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QUOTE(thom_chai @ Sep 23 2014, 09:39 AM)
[/spoiler]

Looking real good there. OEM orange peel actually still ok la, can still live with it haha. But I notice Proton Saga's orange peel is too heavy even for a new car.

You are using the Flex PE14? How much that baby cost?
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Flex XC3401 bro... Here around RM2.3K last heard.
ZeroSP
post Sep 23 2014, 12:02 PM

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QUOTE(thom_chai @ Sep 23 2014, 10:02 AM)
I see, I thought you were using the double sided red foam at first that's why I thought it's rotary. RM2.3K, I think I prefer it over Rupes which around the same range biggrin.gif
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Red foam does have single sided pad.
ZeroSP
post Sep 23 2014, 01:16 PM

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QUOTE(MyWifeCar @ Sep 23 2014, 12:34 PM)
My friend who had his car done with opti-coat, the front hood beading gone after 1 year. The roof degrade after 1 year.

The rest of the vertical panel still ok.

The car is coming into 2 years now after application.

He doesn't detail his car like me, just washed with Meg's only on a weekly basis.

Recently just helped him to apply Iron Gloss from Dodo Juice on front hood, can see that he was kind of disappointed with the Opti-Coat on the front hood. Back then kena me brain washed so hard, but the result is not as what promised.

He in only driving a hybrid, wonder how other cars would experience...
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Now that's weird... My car has been on Opti Coat 5 years, wanna see the beading?

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