Congrats on V4..!!!

Sorry master zerosp I bought OPC already.. I have made arrangement before knowing that you have stock.. Huhuhu

Met master krismas bought GG red, MF Applicator, Enviro and get free sample of Sonax *ehem ehem*.. Very nice and soft spoken guy.. Thanks master!!

Bought this


Ace Hardware no stock/discontinued for halogen lamp with stand.. So frustrated..

So I bought PVC pipe.. With some help from unker gugel

Become this



Halogen lamp 500W - Hot enough until halogen inner rubber burn ady.. Need to find LED pulak..

This post has been edited by roxx: Sep 20 2014, 09:51 AM

Lol.. Mana tau someone eyeing this thread..

Yeah.. Too bad.. Next time we shall meet again again again....

I cannot find BSD in local hypermarket. Do they have it in HQ - Glenmarie?

Jauh la from my house..

Yes. 3 step for testing..

For heavy correction then I need to use these combos. But for non corrected paint I will only use DG501 or OHP for 1 step..

Wanted to test DG105 TPP as 1 step but no stock available right now..

Actually I haven't completed whole car.. Do it when I got free time..

Quazacolt *can't wait to test BSD*

biotin couldnt see clearly from your image to know what type of stains u had on your paint..

First we need to know your paint condition.. Then we need to know type of water spots (if that was water spots) that u had..

Type 1 water spots - u can use those water spot remover from the shelf (aeon/ace hardware/etc)

Type 2 water spots - u can use ultimate compound whether by hand or machine.. Use it wisely

Type 3 water spots - etching into clear coat and I'm not sure can be remove. I have one on my car paint..

Honestly for me claying wont remove water spots.. I have so many type 2 and claying wont remove them..

Remember. Using ultimate compound will cut your clear coat.. So if I were u, i will use something less abrasive first to remove the stain (since I dont know which type u had)

Previously I use UC to remove my type 2 ws and after doing some research, how I wish i use Duragloss Water Spots remover first before UC.. More effective and more safer to clear coat..

Choice is yours.. Patient.. Learn and decide.. Im still learning so hope if Im wrong, sifu please correct me ya..

Yes master zerosp your old faithful friend had served me well.. Pair with his best friend opt double sided red foam = mama mia !!

Still good.. Eventhough water splashes (just like the foam pad is in wet mode) but still contains oil.. So i just buff it (the water splash) and its good to go.. Wipe with mf and done.. Gloss and slickness appear.. Booyahh..!!

Nice

Haven't try Osren before. But I can recommend Duragloss.. Try before and amaze with it..

Currently using DG501. For me I'm satisfied with the beading and water repellent effect on my car.. But once applied it's hard to wash the foam pad..

Just want to share my experience and from this detailing session I've learned a lot..

My friend wanted me to help restore his paint on Chevy Aveo..

Upon Arrival







Left right and rear panel still okay. But need to do paint correction to enhance glossiness. Then I was so shocked to see this..

This is where things started to get interesting. Look at the front bonnet. Can you see anything?



Didn't know the color on front bonnet mati already (oxidation)

More



No gloss at all



Masking to see the severity of the paint and for testing



(Forgot to take 'after' image for this test )

To be continued

Continued from above..

Session starts with washing using megs GCWW + OPC + wash mitt + 2 bucket system + GG and clay using PG no 2. To my shock again, during claying process no contamination pick up on the front bonnet. I was like

Before - Close Up but no reflection at all



After several pass with UC and makita + orange pad (50/50)



My left hand is missing..!!!

Continue to polish the front bonnet and still unable to remove the oxidation on the passenger side. I was so frustrated and finally took out OPT double sided wool pad + UC and begin to work. War started between me and the chevy. Yeahhhh

After



Driver side



Passenger side



Driver's door



Passenger's door



Rear spoiler before



After



Okay la for newbie like me lol

Saja letak logo kereta.. Later expert ady can letak logo Ferrari pulak



Lesson learned from this detailing session and I hope I will not repeat the same mistakes again !!

- Not all paint carries the same type of oxidation - I thought all oxidation is the same. Just apply UC and all done. It took me 2 days just to correct the front bonnet with 1 full bottle of UC

- Need to use correct pair for correction - I was using CCS light cutting orange pad when I should use wool pad or at least yellow pad. This wrong combination cost me time wasted and product wasted. Only started to use wool pad on 2nd day

- Less pass per section - I should work at least 6 to 8 passes instead I only do 3 to 4 passes for each section. Then I top up UC on pad and continue to polish on the same section. This created more product applied thus dryness created and hard to wipe off (left thick residue on the bonnet and pad)

- I only use speed 2 for cutting

- Did not overlap on each section - created boxes. Aiyohhh

- I have wasted so many things including my cuti day..

So in the end, I use OPT wool pad + UC (2nd bottle) and work on each section until I can see glossiness on the paint. This time I do 8 to 10 passes at least with speed 3 to 4 for cutting and finally I was able to remove the oxidation.

both door panel and rear using OHP + Opt red foam and 5'5 / 3' pad for curve and small area

*Actually to be honest, I was nervous because this is my first time detailing others car and not my own.. lol

Any comments and feedback appreciated. Thanks

This post has been edited by roxx: Sep 2 2014, 02:45 PM

Thanks bro

Yes. I used my 2 precious days working on it. By right I should use wool pad at first day but dunno why I use light orange cutting pad..

Even though using rotary, I used wrong technique by doing less pass instead of 6/8 or 8/10 or maybe more passes for heavy (or extreme?) oxidation. Plus with wrong combination use - took me 2 days to complete.

Oh another thing I forgot to add - I just use speed 1 to spread and speed 2 to cut whereas I should use speed 3 (that day I use until speed 4) to cut heavy oxidation (my personal preference only ya)

On 2nd day, I realized if I keep using this technique I will end up weeks before able to restore the paint. So I took wool pad, buy another UC (was thinking to buy rubbing compound), do more passes with speed 3 to 4 and voila.

*This it the lesson I've learned for future and I will use this experienced to improve my skills.. Booyahhh..!!*

On front bonnet and roof I finish off with DG501. Door and rear I use OHP only (1 step) and yes it is Optimum Hyper Spray. Was thinking to add Enviroshield but 501 & OHP has good water sheeting / beading already

Actually the rear spoiler can be restore further but my friend want it that look he said like 'matte' look..

Thanks bro for your comment

Alamak sorry bro.. Didn't take picture of the product used.. Silly me

Free windscreen coat? I'll do review anytime master..

lol joking only haa..

Thank You master..

Bro where do you get the blue bottle?

Do you stay somewhere around Cheras area?

Tell me time and date master..

To all sifus and masters.. Need your kind advise..

Previously I used too many dg501 on my white pad (lesson learned). End up it's very hard to clean the pad (talk about durability eh?)

Try using dg UO (degreaser) also unable to remove the oils resides on the pad.. The chemical unable to 'penetrate' into it (hmmm....)

Since its hard to find pad cleaner in our local store, I used dishwashing soap (sunlight) and to my shock, it removes the oils but still left a bit green blue-ish color which ok for me..

Now the millionaire question.. Can I use the pad again? I scared that the dishwashing detergent still left on the pad thus will affect my next polishing process.. I have rinsed thoroughly but still had that bumpy feelings about it.. Please help. Thanks

Thank You master jedi.. Eh silap.. Master krismas, actually wanted to buy DPD but not available at ace hardware.. Since I need to use my pad badly, i wash it using dishwashing soap..

End up I takut want to use the pad.. Lol

Anyway Thanks a lot master.. Now I no scared ady..

Yes. Wento to Ace Hardware but I only see Dawn 'Original' and Dawn yellow color 'citrus'. Maybe I didn't check properly..

Never bother to ask the staff there since most of them 'foreigners' if you know what I mean.. There's 1 time I ask for 'Meguiar's' they show me cable wire

Another test sharing with you guys..

This morning nothing to do (wanted to polish but scared with pad soaked in dishwashing soap) so I do some test on beading and durability of DG EnviroShield.

I have brake dust problem and it was very hard to remove it. Thus I want to put this to end.



Heavy brake dust..!!



Product I used for cleaning (OPC 1:3 & DG461 UO) with cheapo brush..



After mandi the wheels with OPC and DG461



Then I clay the rims (what??)



(next time cannot use this on body paint)

Once completed, It's time for EnviroShield..!! (Can you see illuminati's logo?)



After wipe on wipe off, wheels become more glossier (from my naked eyes can see the glossiness)



After 1 hour - Water beading test



So we shall see in a couple of days whether I'm able to remove the brake dust easily or not.