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 Yamaha LC135 Y15ZR Y16ZR Club - V18, King of kings

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TSalexei
post Feb 27 2014, 02:30 PM, updated 4 months ago

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Attached Image
user posted image
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LYN Yamaha 135LC Y15ZR Y16ZR Club V18
Lowyat 135LC Club Logo [by Spayz]
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Yum Cha Session Logo [by Spayz]
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wub.gif Yamaha 135LC Proud Owners wub.gif

The NameList
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Older Thread For Reference
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Whose name is not in the LIST, kindly PM me your details as above notworthy.gif
SCROLL down for more useful tips n links thumbup.gif


This post has been edited by alexei: Aug 31 2021, 08:31 PM
TSalexei
post Feb 27 2014, 02:30 PM

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Our Proud Ride !!

1. Spayz's ride :
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2. xtreme_paranoid's ride :
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3. charge-n-go's ride :
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4. Are_keem's ride :
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5. scoffer's ride : - link is dead
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6. kinwei3250's ride :
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7. LilCroSs's ride :
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8. samba18's ride :
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9. UncleCheang's ride :
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10. budakmentah's ride :
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This post has been edited by alexei: Apr 9 2021, 09:41 AM
TSalexei
post Feb 27 2014, 02:31 PM

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Our Proud Ride V2 !!

11. Na0ki's ride : link is dead

12. DontdoDRUG's ride :
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13. jsteoh93's ride : - link is dead
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14. Aaron135LC's ride : link is dead

15. Itsuki_Kun's ride : link is dead

16. mls_gamer's ride :
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17. fredericktke's ride : link is dead

18. millennia_135LC :
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19. patrickloo's ride :
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20.thianz's ride : - link is dead
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This post has been edited by alexei: Jan 5 2016, 02:02 PM
TSalexei
post Feb 27 2014, 02:32 PM

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Our Proud Ride V3 !!

21. NoobboyZzZ's ride :
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22. ToshinRaizen's ride :
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23. serigala's ride :
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24. mohamadnizam's ride:
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25. MiztaLegendary's ride:
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26. freakyNeo's ride:
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27. ave666's ride:
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28. cahayamalamku's ride:
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29. abong8's ride:
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This post has been edited by alexei: Sep 14 2015, 11:21 AM
TSalexei
post Feb 27 2014, 02:34 PM

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Breaking in that new engine:
How To Break-In (Source 1)
How To Break-In (Source 2)
How To Break-In (Source 2 - Video)
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Maintenance:
Yamaha 135LC Manual Book Direct Download, see attachments at the bottom of this post.
Or here: Link and search for '135' in page

Tips For Taking Care of Yamaha 135LC (0163119779)

Recommended EO: Click HERE for the list.

List of EO suitable for Y15ZR and FZ150i v2:
JASO MA2 10W-50
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JASO MA2 15W-50
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JASO MA2 20W-50
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JASO MA2 10W-60 & 20W-60
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Tuning and Setup Guides:
Sprocket Settings (budakmentah)
How To Set Carburator (MBC)
How To Adjust Carburator Settings Simplified (Alexei)
Constant velocity or diaphragm carb (LC135 V2) modification

Riding Techniques:
How to steer a motorcycle
Click HERE to learn the way to steer a bike.
Tyre Turning Angle (Serigala)

Riding In A Group Etiquette [by Are_Keem]
Riding in a big group needs proper riding etiquette. Therefore, you can learn all the riding etiquette HERE

General Knowledge:
Read All About EO HERE

Accessories:
Choosing The Right Jacket [by Alexei]
Here are some tips to learn how to choose riding jacket correctly. Click HERE

LED Brightness [by Aaron135LC]
How to determine the correct LED that provide sufficient brightness HERE

Tips On Modification [JPJ/Traffic] [by budakmentah]
To know what you can mod or can't mod onto your motorcycle. Follow this guideline HERE for the correct tips


This post has been edited by alexei: Mar 9 2017, 06:35 PM
TSalexei
post Feb 27 2014, 02:34 PM

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Tips to Improve Engine Performance

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Carburator General Tuning Guideline:
LC135 V1 VM carb:
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LC135 V2 BS carb:
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Relationship of Conrod and Stroke length to engine performance

Camshaft and Timing:
Reference: Compilation by LC150 blogspot

Source: Cam timing article
What Happens When We Advance A SOHC Cam Gear?:
- Advancing the Cam : closes the intake valve earlier, increasing cylinder pressure and power in the low to mid-range rpms, and reducing peak power.
- Retarding (or Delaying) the Cam : closes the intake valve later, which reduces low to mid-range power (and may reduce pinging), but potentially improves peak power.

Summary Effects of Advancing/Retarding SOHC Cam Timing:
Advancing vs Retarding
Begins Intake Event Sooner Delays Intake Event
Closes\Open Intake Valve Sooner Keeps Intake Valve Open Later
Builds More Low-End Torque Builds More High-End Horsepower
Decrease Piston-Intake Valve Cl. Increase Piston-Intake Valve Cl.
Increase Piston-Exhaust Valve Cl. Decrease Piston-Exhaust Valve Cl.

LSA = Lobe separation angle:
Cam Overlap is inversely affected by LSA.
The size of the LSA affects the size of the cam overlap proportionately but in the opposite direction to one another.
Increase LSA and you decrease Overlap. Reduce LSA and you increase Overlap.
More Cam Overlap gives you more Upper RPM power gains.

The tighter the LSA: More scavenging, the higher up the powerband shifts along the rpm range and the narrower the powerband becomes. Overlap is increased.
Widen the LSA: Less scavenging, the lower the powerband shifts along the rpm range and the wider the powerband becomes. Overlap is decreased.

Summary of the Effects of Adjusting Lobe Separation Angle ------------
Tighten vs Widen
Moves Torque to Higher RPM Moves Torque to Lower RPM
Increases Maximum Torque Reduces Maximum Torque
Narrow Powerband Broadens Power Band
Builds Higher Cylinder Pressure Reduce Maximum Cylinder Pressure
Increase Chance of Engine Knock Decrease Chance of Engine Knock
Increase Cranking Compression Decrease Cranking Compression
Increase Efective Compression Decrease Efective Compression
Idle Vacuum is Reduced Idle Vacuum is Increased
Idle Quality Suffers Idle Quality Improves
Open Valve-Overlap Increases Open Valve-Overlap Decreases
Closed Valve-Overlap Increases Closed Valve-Overlap Decreases
Decreases Piston-to-Valve Clearance Increases Piston-to-Valve Clearance

Disc Brake Tuning Methodology

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Setting Up Your Monoshock / Fork

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Increase Top Speed In Stock 2011 Yamaha 135LC

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This post has been edited by alexei: Apr 9 2015, 03:14 PM
TSalexei
post Feb 27 2014, 02:34 PM

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thumbup.gif Credit to bro Patrickloo for the videos notworthy.gif
Update me with videos of any nice routes. Videos shown above can be used as a guide line on how the road looks like and for reference usage. icon_rolleyes.gif

Yum Cha Session Photo
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rclxm9.gif Wonders of Penang Island rclxms.gif

Relau - Balik Pulau
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Balik Pulau - Teluk Bahang
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_________________________________________________________________________________________________

rclxm9.gif Wonders of Gerik rclxms.gif

Peak Of Titiwangsa
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This post has been edited by alexei: Jan 5 2016, 02:04 PM
NewGUY
post Feb 27 2014, 03:25 PM

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first time 1st...
thianz
post Feb 27 2014, 06:01 PM

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QUOTE(NewGUY @ Feb 27 2014, 03:25 PM)
first time 1st...
*
fuyoh ... eric pertama ..... brows.gif brows.gif
crappy123
post Feb 27 2014, 07:20 PM

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this is fast.
Rascal Stitch
post Feb 27 2014, 07:27 PM

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aku no.11~
jern25
post Feb 27 2014, 10:49 PM

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whats the best engine oil recommended especially if i use my LC for long distance daily ride.
serigala
post Feb 28 2014, 02:17 AM

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parking dulu..

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This post has been edited by serigala: Feb 28 2014, 02:19 AM
mls_gamer
post Feb 28 2014, 04:05 AM

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vrooom~~~~
mohamadnizam
post Feb 28 2014, 06:55 AM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Feb 27 2014, 10:49 PM)
whats the best engine oil recommended especially if i use my LC for long distance daily ride.
*
Ive been using motul 5100 w/ esther 15-50w.. nod.gif
TSalexei
post Feb 28 2014, 09:54 AM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Feb 27 2014, 10:49 PM)
whats the best engine oil recommended especially if i use my LC for long distance daily ride.
*
welcome, you can refer to tips up there, especially recommended EO for bikes that should answer your question.
thumbup.gif
TSalexei
post Feb 28 2014, 09:56 AM

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QUOTE(serigala @ Feb 28 2014, 02:17 AM)
parking dulu..
*
bro, your bike pic added.
wanna add you to the namelist: name | state | model | year of purchase pls...

This post has been edited by alexei: Feb 28 2014, 09:56 AM
serigala
post Feb 28 2014, 10:31 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Feb 28 2014, 09:56 AM)
bro, your bike pic added.
wanna add you to the namelist: name | state | model | year of purchase pls...
*
Serigala | K.Terengganu | ES | Oct 2008

This post has been edited by serigala: Feb 28 2014, 10:32 AM
Rascal Stitch
post Feb 28 2014, 10:40 AM

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aiks,i forgot to put myself in even i was d last TS~ sweat.gif
TSalexei
post Feb 28 2014, 11:07 AM

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QUOTE(Rascal Stitch @ Feb 28 2014, 10:40 AM)
aiks,i forgot to put myself in even i was d last TS~ sweat.gif
*
pm me or reply your info.
Rascal Stitch
post Feb 28 2014, 11:30 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Feb 28 2014, 12:07 PM)
pm me or reply your info.
*
mine is 2012/new LC not ES /from KL~
serigala
post Feb 28 2014, 12:26 PM

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QUOTE(Rascal Stitch @ Feb 28 2014, 11:30 AM)
mine is 2012/new LC not ES /from KL~
*
or simple we can say |SS 2nd Gen|
jern25
post Feb 28 2014, 01:19 PM

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QUOTE(mohamadnizam @ Feb 28 2014, 06:55 AM)
Ive been using motul 5100 w/ esther 15-50w..  nod.gif
*
how much is the price for this EO? around RM50? Any recommended shop to buy in KL?
TSalexei
post Feb 28 2014, 02:16 PM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Feb 28 2014, 01:19 PM)
how much is the price for this EO? around RM50? Any recommended shop to buy in KL?
*
Please read the 'break-in' method above.
Do not start a new bike with fully synthetics.
TSalexei
post Feb 28 2014, 02:21 PM

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jern25serigalaRascal Stitch Added:
118. jern25 | State | SS | Feb 2014
119. serigala | K.Terengganu | ES | Oct 2008
120. Rascal Stitch | KL | SS v2 | 2012

mohamadnizam
post Feb 28 2014, 02:58 PM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Feb 28 2014, 01:19 PM)
how much is the price for this EO? around RM50? Any recommended shop to buy in KL?
*
I got it for RM38. Usually i just change the plug, Oil filter and EO at the same time. Got it for RM60++.

Some places sell that EO for Rm50. sweat.gif

And that workshop is located in ampang. Near kosas.

But yeah. Dont use fully synthetics oil for new bike.

Edit. OP, please put my bike on the list. Thanks.

Nizam | Selangor | ES | Jan 2010

user posted image

This post has been edited by mohamadnizam: Feb 28 2014, 06:52 PM
thianz
post Mar 1 2014, 02:48 AM

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QUOTE(mohamadnizam @ Feb 28 2014, 02:58 PM)
I got it for RM38. Usually i just change the plug, Oil filter and EO at the same time. Got it for RM60++.

Some places sell that EO for Rm50.  sweat.gif

And that workshop is located in ampang. Near kosas.

But yeah. Dont use fully synthetics oil for new bike.

Edit. OP, please put my bike on the list. Thanks.

Nizam | Selangor | ES | Jan 2010

user posted image
*
macam pernah jumpa motor ni jer ..... hmm.gif hmm.gif
mohamadnizam
post Mar 1 2014, 10:27 AM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Mar 1 2014, 02:48 AM)
macam pernah jumpa motor ni jer .....  hmm.gif  hmm.gif
*
Lol. Where?
crappy123
post Mar 1 2014, 08:27 PM

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fuhyoh fenderless. m1 really powerful exhaust.
Rascal Stitch
post Mar 1 2014, 08:29 PM

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QUOTE(serigala @ Feb 28 2014, 01:26 PM)
or simple we can say |SS 2nd Gen|
*
ss?
hmmm~ hmm.gif hmm.gif laugh.gif
serigala
post Mar 1 2014, 11:28 PM

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QUOTE(Rascal Stitch @ Mar 1 2014, 08:29 PM)
ss?
hmmm~ hmm.gif  hmm.gif  laugh.gif
*
Super Sport
Extreme Spirit

TSalexei
post Mar 2 2014, 12:12 AM

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QUOTE(mohamadnizam @ Feb 28 2014, 02:58 PM)
Edit. OP, please put my bike on the list. Thanks.
*
Added... welcome Nizam.
mohamadnizam
post Mar 2 2014, 12:42 AM

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QUOTE(crappy123 @ Mar 1 2014, 08:27 PM)
fuhyoh fenderless. m1 really powerful exhaust.
*
Lol. Its sure is. I tried the long one. The sound aint bad. But this one. Cubprix version. The sound is damn nice. And you can feel the diff when on top speed. Been using this about half a year. All i can say is. Money well spent. brows.gif



QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 2 2014, 12:12 AM)
Added... welcome Nizam.
*
Thanks boss. thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by mohamadnizam: Mar 2 2014, 12:43 AM
MrBushido25
post Mar 2 2014, 12:56 AM

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anyone knows where to find lc "sampan" in kuala terengganu and kuantan, with price as well in case if u guys know...
Rascal Stitch
post Mar 3 2014, 08:42 AM

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QUOTE(serigala @ Mar 2 2014, 12:28 AM)
Super Sport
Extreme Spirit
*
oh ok~ laugh.gif laugh.gif
TSalexei
post Mar 3 2014, 11:39 AM

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QUOTE(MrBushido25 @ Mar 2 2014, 12:56 AM)
anyone knows where to find lc "sampan" in kuala terengganu and kuantan, with price as well in case if u guys know...
*
the aluminium segitiga at the front tyer?
serigala
post Mar 3 2014, 01:22 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 3 2014, 11:39 AM)
the aluminium segitiga at the front tyer?
*
i think he mean belly pan..

arthur88
post Mar 4 2014, 02:28 PM

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thinking to get a lc135, but after google around i notice there are two types, one is normal yamaha lc135, another one is yamaha lc135 ES...
what is the difference?
serigala
post Mar 4 2014, 05:51 PM

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QUOTE(arthur88 @ Mar 4 2014, 02:28 PM)
thinking to get a lc135, but after google around i notice there are two types, one is normal yamaha lc135, another one is yamaha lc135 ES...
what is the difference?
*
ES use manual clutch..just like yamaha 125 and most big bikes..
normal or SS(supersport) have auto clutch..
arthur88
post Mar 4 2014, 07:14 PM

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QUOTE(serigala @ Mar 4 2014, 05:51 PM)
ES use manual clutch..just like yamaha 125 and most big bikes..
normal or SS(supersport) have auto clutch..
*
is this only the difference? performance wise or fuel consumption wise no difference?

another question, for auto clutch, how to differentiate? beside the obvious Super Sport word on the bike body...
serigala
post Mar 4 2014, 08:26 PM

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QUOTE(arthur88 @ Mar 4 2014, 07:14 PM)
is this only the difference? performance wise or fuel consumption wise no difference?

another question, for auto clutch, how to differentiate? beside the obvious Super Sport word on the bike body...
*
performance wise,if u can handle the clutch well,the bike will perform better on acceleration..fuel consumption,negligible,not much differ
on the left hand side,ES u will see the clutch lever, SS no clutch lever
Foot rest and gear shifter also different..and the way u shift gear also different

Rider FootRest
- ES come with spring and fold-able (in event of bike lean to low or dropped)
- SS fixed

Gear Shifter
-ES gear shifter is only one sided (front only,like the big bikes one) and rubberized
-SS gear shifter have front and rear..like ex5..

Gear Shifting
-ES gear shifting down to 1st gear..then u pull it up to 2-3-4
-SS all down 1-2-3-4
TSalexei
post Mar 4 2014, 10:48 PM

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QUOTE(arthur88 @ Mar 4 2014, 07:14 PM)
is this only the difference? performance wise or fuel consumption wise no difference?

another question, for auto clutch, how to differentiate? beside the obvious Super Sport word on the bike body...
*
The ES v2 is 5 speed version, with diaphragm carb. All others use round slide carb with accelerator pump. Empirical data suggests diaphragm carb is more fuel efficient, mainly because of the accelerator pump on the round slide carb.

ES v2 has wider rims and rear disc brake.
arthur88
post Mar 5 2014, 12:57 AM

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QUOTE(serigala @ Mar 4 2014, 08:26 PM)
performance wise,if u can handle the clutch well,the bike will perform better on acceleration..fuel consumption,negligible,not much differ
on the left hand side,ES u will see the clutch lever, SS no clutch lever
Foot rest and gear shifter also different..and the way u shift gear also different

Rider FootRest
- ES come with spring and fold-able (in event of bike lean to low or dropped)
- SS fixed

Gear Shifter
-ES gear shifter is only one sided (front only,like the big bikes one) and rubberized
-SS gear shifter have front and rear..like ex5..

Gear Shifting
-ES gear shifting down to 1st gear..then u pull it up to 2-3-4
-SS all down 1-2-3-4
*
thanks for the advice...i have no idea at all about these..
can give any advice which model to get?
currently what price?
today i asked motor shop, got clutch 7k, no clutch 6.6k...
which i duno which model is that by that time...

so, ES is more expensive due to got clutch? that's all? or got other accessories?

i only start to dig info about LC135 cause gonna change to bigger CC motor...currently rempit on kapcai ex5...
arthur88
post Mar 5 2014, 12:59 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 4 2014, 10:48 PM)
The ES v2 is 5 speed version, with diaphragm carb. All others use round slide carb with accelerator pump. Empirical data suggests diaphragm carb is more fuel efficient, mainly because of the accelerator pump on the round slide carb.

ES v2 has wider rims and rear disc brake.
*
definitely duno what is diaphragm carb...
but as serigala said, fuel consumption wise is negligible...u agree on that?

i believe data sheets are just wording game...still come down to real user...
need to get one bigger CC bike...now only start to do some homework, surveying price...
wady89
post Mar 5 2014, 09:37 AM

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hye guys, im newbie here..
i have use my 135lc for 3 1/2 years, the only service i done in this 3 1/2 years is minyak hitam, plug, oil filter, spoket rantai, air coolant but not in proper time as stated by you guys,
now top and pickup is decrease also it performance, what should i do to increase my beloved 135lc?? icon_question.gif icon_question.gif

any question just hit me with it laugh.gif
TSalexei
post Mar 5 2014, 10:22 AM

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QUOTE(arthur88 @ Mar 5 2014, 12:59 AM)
definitely duno what is diaphragm carb...
but as serigala said, fuel consumption wise is negligible...u agree on that?

i believe data sheets are just wording game...still come down to real user...
need to get one bigger CC bike...now only start to do some homework, surveying price...
*
Fuel consumption is subjective. Let me ask you this: Any difference between 120km per tank, vs 130km per tank?
- To some, it is negligible, but to me, it is 7.7% difference, which is huge.
- In my opinion, when such a difference happen, it is time for me to service my carburator.

Fuel consumption higher on accelerator pumps is not *just* numbers, it's a fact - petrol is directly injected into the carb venturi.

A short read (from facebook, not so technical) on carb comparison here: https://es-la.facebook.com/motomalaya/posts/164391890282940

QUOTE(wady89 @ Mar 5 2014, 09:37 AM)
hye guys, im newbie here..
i have use my 135lc for 3 1/2 years, the only service i done in this 3 1/2 years is minyak hitam, plug, oil filter, spoket rantai, air coolant but not in proper time as stated by you guys,
now top and pickup is decrease also it performance, what should i do to increase my beloved 135lc?? icon_question.gif  icon_question.gif

any question just hit me with it laugh.gif
*
Welcome, wady89.

When you say 'decrease' and 'increase', preferably if you can be more specific. Example:
- It takes 0.5s more to accelerate third gear from 80-100kmh.
- Topspeed on the same highway reduced to 110kmh, where it used to be 125kmh.

As for your service routine, have you done the carb and air filter service?
What EO do you use?
What does your spark plug look like when the old one is taken out?

This post has been edited by alexei: Mar 5 2014, 10:25 AM
wady89
post Mar 5 2014, 10:38 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 5 2014, 10:22 AM)
Welcome, wady89.

When you say 'decrease' and 'increase', preferably if you can be more specific. Example:
- It takes 0.5s more to accelerate third gear from 80-100kmh.
- Topspeed on the same highway reduced to 110kmh, where it used to be 125kmh.

As for your service routine, have you done the carb and air filter service?
What EO do you use?
What does your spark plug look like when the old one is taken out?
*
"Topspeed on the same highway reduced to 110kmh, where it used to be 125kmh"- agreed on this statement

As for your service routine, have you done the carb and air filter service?
hmm.gif err..i believe i never done this before


What EO do you use?
motul 5100 10w40 before, last EO is Castrol power1 racing 10w40


What does your spark plug look like when the old one is taken out?
i forgot about this, maybe i go check today

i just know basic of service sry sweat.gif
TSalexei
post Mar 5 2014, 11:09 AM

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QUOTE(wady89 @ Mar 5 2014, 10:38 AM)
"Topspeed on the same highway reduced to 110kmh, where it used to be 125kmh"- agreed on this statement

As for your service routine, have you done the carb and air filter service?
hmm.gif err..i believe i never done this before
What EO do you use?
motul 5100 10w40 before, last EO is Castrol power1 racing 10w40
What does your spark plug look like when the old one is taken out?
i forgot about this, maybe i go check today

i just know basic of service sry  sweat.gif
*
Get the carb cleaned up, and notice how the different engine response when cold vs hot.
It should be difficult to start, sometimes need choke when early in the morning and the bike is cold.
When engine is hot, it should be easy to restart.
wady89
post Mar 5 2014, 11:21 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 5 2014, 11:09 AM)
Get the carb cleaned up, and notice how the different engine response when cold vs hot.
It should be difficult to start, sometimes need choke when early in the morning and the bike is cold.
When engine is hot, it should be easy to restart.
*
okie dokie..thx, how about the air filter?

any more suggestion?
my rear tyre need to change, so any suggestion in term of type or brand suitable?
now i`m using 90/80 duro

This post has been edited by wady89: Mar 5 2014, 11:34 AM
arthur88
post Mar 5 2014, 11:46 AM

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https://motomalaya.net/blog/2011/04/24/2011...nd-differences/

just read about the link above.
u guys that have been riding LC135 here got anything/any additional info to add?

pros and cons between these two?
TSalexei
post Mar 5 2014, 01:20 PM

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QUOTE(wady89 @ Mar 5 2014, 11:21 AM)
okie dokie..thx, how about the air filter?

any more suggestion?
my rear tyre need to change, so any suggestion in term of type or brand suitable?
now i`m using 90/80 duro
*
Standard air filter, just air gun clean it.
That tyre is fine, IMO.
jern25
post Mar 5 2014, 01:45 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 5 2014, 11:09 AM)
Get the carb cleaned up, and notice how the different engine response when cold vs hot.
It should be difficult to start, sometimes need choke when early in the morning and the bike is cold.
When engine is hot, it should be easy to restart.
*
how is normally workshop will charge for carb cleaning?
wady89
post Mar 5 2014, 01:50 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 5 2014, 01:20 PM)
Standard air filter, just air gun clean it.
That tyre is fine, IMO.
*
how about size? what is the different?
TSalexei
post Mar 5 2014, 04:10 PM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Mar 5 2014, 01:45 PM)
how is normally workshop will charge for carb cleaning?
*
I don't know anymore, I clean it myself.
Maybe RM15~20.

QUOTE(wady89 @ Mar 5 2014, 01:50 PM)
how about size? what is the different?
*
Best use standard size, 70/90 front, 80/90 rear. 90/80 rear also ok.
wady89
post Mar 5 2014, 04:56 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 5 2014, 04:10 PM)
I don't know anymore, I clean it myself.
Maybe RM15~20.
Best use standard size, 70/90 front, 80/90 rear. 90/80 rear also ok.
*
thumbup.gif thumbup.gif thank you,

how about little mod to increase top or pickup??

MrBushido25
post Mar 5 2014, 05:20 PM

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QUOTE(serigala @ Mar 3 2014, 01:22 PM)
i think he mean belly pan..
*
Yeah, the bellypan
MrBushido25
post Mar 5 2014, 05:27 PM

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I want to ask,

What's is the difference of 10-40w and 20-50w EO on lc, in terms of performance,

I'm thinking of buying the brt cdi, does it would be harmful to std engine?

About the carburetor setting, I've red somewhere said that you can increase pickup by tweaking the carb jet, though i don't what do you call of for that setting, so could somebody explain about this please?

Thanks

This post has been edited by MrBushido25: Mar 5 2014, 05:28 PM
jern25
post Mar 5 2014, 05:33 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 5 2014, 04:10 PM)
I don't know anymore, I clean it myself.
Maybe RM15~20.
Best use standard size, 70/90 front, 80/90 rear. 90/80 rear also ok.
*
for me std tyre is quite small for someone like me (109kg). what size do u think suitable and fits with stock sport rim?
MrBushido25
post Mar 5 2014, 05:38 PM

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QUOTE(wady89 @ Mar 5 2014, 09:37 AM)
hye guys, im newbie here..
i have use my 135lc for 3 1/2 years, the only service i done in this 3 1/2 years is minyak hitam, plug, oil filter, spoket rantai, air coolant but not in proper time as stated by you guys,
now top and pickup is decrease also it performance, what should i do to increase my beloved 135lc?? icon_question.gif  icon_question.gif

any question just hit me with it laugh.gif
*
Its typical for most bike to decline in perf as time pass, as a std bike user myself, I regularly change my EO every 2000 or 1500 km mileage, you know just for guaranteed maintainance, it also depends on what EO you used as well, ask opinions of what's the best from pomen, I myself use maxoil, most people recommends jtx,shell vsx depends on your budget too though, if significant perf reduction hapens , you might wanna get your bike for some checkup, apart from these advice I got none, maybe you wanna hook up a new cdi

This post has been edited by MrBushido25: Mar 5 2014, 05:39 PM
MrBushido25
post Mar 5 2014, 05:43 PM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Mar 5 2014, 05:33 PM)
for me std tyre is quite small for someone like me (109kg). what size do u think suitable and fits with stock sport rim?
*
I used front tire 80/90 and rear is kinda big, I forgot the size, its the v2 ES tyre, by duro, I got it from a bike shop in kuantan, it has the original Yamaha package on it, its a big and nice tyre, you might wanna check it out

This post has been edited by MrBushido25: Mar 5 2014, 05:44 PM
wady89
post Mar 5 2014, 05:49 PM

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QUOTE(MrBushido25 @ Mar 5 2014, 05:38 PM)
Its typical for most bike to decline in perf as time pass, as a std bike user myself, I regularly change my EO every 2000 or 1500 km mileage, you know just for guaranteed maintainance, it also depends on what EO you used as well, ask opinions of what's the best from pomen, I myself use maxoil, most people recommends jtx,shell vsx depends on your budget too though, if significant perf reduction hapens , you might wanna get your bike for some checkup, apart from these advice I got none, maybe you wanna hook up a new cdi
*

i need to find best pomen in s.alam or klang area, anyone got any idea where?
TSalexei
post Mar 5 2014, 06:06 PM

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QUOTE(wady89 @ Mar 5 2014, 04:56 PM)
thumbup.gif  thumbup.gif thank you,

how about little mod to increase top or pickup??
*
Start with stage 1 upgrade stuff. Spend some time on it.

QUOTE(MrBushido25 @ Mar 5 2014, 05:27 PM)
I want to ask,

What's is the difference of 10-40w and 20-50w EO on lc, in terms of performance,

I'm thinking of buying the brt cdi, does it would be harmful to std engine?

About the carburetor setting, I've red somewhere said that you can increase pickup by  tweaking the carb jet, though i don't what do you call of for that setting, so could somebody explain about this please?

Thanks
*
10-40W is thinner (lower viscosity) than 20-50W at same temperature. So, the rest you can figure out. Use the oil recommended by manufacturer, except if your bike is modded. Once modded, you need to trial and error.

On carb jetting, there are some explanation on page 1, I think. Go through that first, and see if you have any questions.
QUOTE(jern25 @ Mar 5 2014, 05:33 PM)
for me std tyre is quite small for someone like me (109kg). what size do u think suitable and fits with stock sport rim?
*
I don't think so...
wady89
post Mar 5 2014, 08:30 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 5 2014, 06:06 PM)
Start with stage 1 upgrade stuff. Spend some time on it.
This one?
Minor mod (increase acceleration)
1. Remove air filter.
2. Reset carburetor air-fuel setting.
3. Set valve tapette to 10 IN and 15 OUT. - RM30 labour charge @ New Bee Hock motor, Penang.
4. Change to 15-40 with 415 chain. - RM100


TSalexei
post Mar 5 2014, 10:38 PM

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QUOTE(wady89 @ Mar 5 2014, 08:30 PM)
This one?
Minor mod (increase acceleration)
1. Remove air filter.
2. Reset carburetor air-fuel setting.
3. Set valve tapette to 10 IN and 15 OUT. - RM30 labour charge @ New Bee Hock motor, Penang.
4. Change to 15-40 with 415 chain. - RM100
*
Stage 1 mod concept covers a lot of stuff, but in essence anything that can be immediately bolted on, or directly swapped out from stock, without additional work to be done to the engine. It is not just about improving performance, but also handling of the vehicle.

- High flow air filter, or removed stock air filter.
- Exhaust
- Lightened wheels, chains and sprockets
- Brake pads, hose
- Engine oil (10W-30)
- Spring, fork oil, monoshock
- Spark plug, plug cable

Stage 2 can be more aggressive of stage 1 mods, require more work on the engines, or adding things:
- Intake+Exhaust port and polish: valve and tappet
- Big bore block + piston kit + carb
- Camshaft
- Crankshaft, jack rod, jack pin etc
- Gearset
- Oil cooler
- Radiator fan
- Weight reduction
- CDI remap

Stage 3 is race preparation, which I don't know a lot about.
serigala
post Mar 5 2014, 10:45 PM

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QUOTE(MrBushido25 @ Mar 5 2014, 05:20 PM)
Yeah, the bellypan
*
HVM jerteh or order online..palex got i think

QUOTE(MrBushido25 @ Mar 5 2014, 05:27 PM)
I want to ask,

What's is the difference of 10-40w and 20-50w EO on lc, in terms of performance,

I'm thinking of buying the brt cdi, does it would be harmful to std engine?

About the carburetor setting, I've red somewhere said that you can increase pickup by  tweaking the carb jet, though i don't what do you call of for that setting, so could somebody explain about this please?

Thanks
*
after market CDI wont do much effect on stock..just removing ur rpm limiter (which i think better for u to stay below 8500 rpm)
reset the carb to get the best air/fuel ratio will increase performance..after u remove the air filter la(or change to aftermarket one eg: K&N)
btw, u stay in kuala terengganu?

QUOTE(jern25 @ Mar 5 2014, 05:33 PM)
for me std tyre is quite small for someone like me (109kg). what size do u think suitable and fits with stock sport rim?
*
stock rim best tire size is 70/90 F and 80/90 R
on 5s 70/90 F and 90/80 R or 100/80 R
go over that size kinda dangerous and wasting rubber
jern25
post Mar 6 2014, 10:17 AM

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QUOTE(serigala @ Mar 5 2014, 10:45 PM)
stock rim best tire size is 70/90 F and 80/90 R
on 5s 70/90 F and 90/80 R or 100/80 R
go over that size kinda dangerous and wasting rubber
*
im sorry, but what is 5s?
wady89
post Mar 6 2014, 01:36 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 5 2014, 10:38 PM)
Stage 1 mod concept covers a lot of stuff, but in essence anything that can be immediately bolted on, or directly swapped out from stock, without additional work to be done to the engine. It is not just about improving performance, but also handling of the vehicle.

- High flow air filter, or removed stock air filter.
- Exhaust
- Lightened wheels, chains and sprockets
- Brake pads, hose
- Engine oil (10W-30)
- Spring, fork oil, monoshock
- Spark plug, plug cable

Stage 2 can be more aggressive of stage 1 mods, require more work on the engines, or adding things:
- Intake+Exhaust port and polish: valve and tappet
- Big bore block + piston kit + carb
- Camshaft
- Crankshaft, jack rod, jack pin etc
- Gearset
- Oil cooler
- Radiator fan
- Weight reduction
- CDI remap

Stage 3 is race preparation, which I don't know a lot about.
*
- High flow air filter, or removed stock air filter.
- Exhaust
- Lightened wheels, chains and sprockets
- Brake pads, hose
- Engine oil (10W-30)
- Spring, fork oil, monoshock
- Spark plug, plug cable

can give me suggestion brand, just put what you believe is the best,
how much the cost will be? estimation is ok

This post has been edited by wady89: Mar 6 2014, 01:39 PM
serigala
post Mar 6 2014, 03:10 PM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Mar 6 2014, 10:17 AM)
im sorry, but what is 5s?
*
135lc 5 speed version
the new version with handclutch
jern25
post Mar 6 2014, 05:42 PM

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QUOTE(serigala @ Mar 6 2014, 03:10 PM)
135lc 5 speed version
the new version with handclutch
*
ic. meaning that, for lc 4s, its best to stick with its current stock tyre size?
MiztaLegendary
post Mar 6 2014, 09:47 PM

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Goin to get my ES 5s soon. This group wl bcme handy for infos. Thanks all for the info sharing.

This post has been edited by MiztaLegendary: Mar 6 2014, 10:06 PM
jaylim94
post Mar 6 2014, 11:40 PM

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Hello there,

Anyone can share about the fuel consumption for 135 LC ES (5s)?
Eg. RM ? can go for ? km OR ?km/L

+ How about compare to Y125ZR ?

Thanks for sharing smile.gif
TSalexei
post Mar 6 2014, 11:46 PM

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As some of you are new to this forum, I am only moderating this V18.
I currently do not own any Yamaha LC, so my experience with this bike is limited.
I only own 2 strokes, and knows a thing or two about motorcycle.

If I do not answer your questions, it simply means I do not know. Please be patient, and wait for sifu to reply you.

QUOTE(wady89 @ Mar 6 2014, 01:36 PM)
- High flow air filter, or removed stock air filter.
- Exhaust
- Lightened wheels, chains and sprockets
- Brake pads, hose
- Engine oil (10W-30)
- Spring, fork oil, monoshock
- Spark plug, plug cable

can give me suggestion brand, just put what you believe is the best,
how much the cost will be? estimation is ok
*
Air filter can use UNI, or K&N. Not sure how much. Got other high flow ones.
Brake pads got a lot of brand, Elig, Ferodo are some I know. Making sure the pads and disc do not kena oil is the key.
Engine oil can be RM20-50+. Check page one for recommended bike EO.
Fork oil must make sure both side balance. You can use cap ayam RM3, to Motul.
Monoshock Kayaba is pretty good.
Spark plug NGK G-power RM12. Other like Iridium would be expensive around RM50. NGK plug cable about RM30, red color.

These mods above is to let your bike use better parts, and may require some minor setting adjustments such as pilot screw with the installation of high flow air filters. You can easily spend up to RM300~400, and do not get huge improvements.

Stage 2 will really burn your pocket, and that I have no experience.
Need to ask owners like serigala, thianz, crappy123.

QUOTE(jern25 @ Mar 6 2014, 05:42 PM)
ic. meaning that, for lc 4s, its best to stick with its current stock tyre size?
*
yes. the tyres have to match the rim size, not the weight.
those tyres can carry weight, as normal two passengers would weight >120kg, or those penjaja EX5, just imagine.
TSalexei
post Mar 6 2014, 11:53 PM

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QUOTE(MiztaLegendary @ Mar 6 2014, 09:47 PM)
Goin to get my ES 5s soon. This group wl bcme handy for infos. Thanks all for the info sharing.
*
Looking forward to your membership here.

QUOTE(jaylim94 @ Mar 6 2014, 11:40 PM)
Hello there,

Anyone can share about the fuel consumption for 135 LC ES (5s)?
Eg. RM ? can go for ? km OR ?km/L

+ How about compare to Y125ZR ?

Thanks for sharing smile.gif
*
We talked about this in V17, and many times before.
I think the numbers are like RM8 for 140km like that. In theory, this is a 40 km per liter bike, so at RM8, it should be able to go 160km.
I am sure it can do better if tuned for better fuel efficiency. I won't be surprised if it can do 200km.

125z I'm not sure, but as many 2 strokes, it can vary a lot.
A poorly tuned one would only go for less than 100km for RM8.
jaylim94
post Mar 6 2014, 11:59 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 6 2014, 11:53 PM)
We talked about this in V17, and many times before.
I think the numbers are like RM8 for 140km like that. In theory, this is a 40 km per liter bike, so at RM8, it should be able to go 160km.
I am sure it can do better if tuned for better fuel efficiency. I won't be surprised if it can do 200km.

125z I'm not sure, but as many 2 strokes, it can vary a lot.
A poorly tuned one would only go for less than 100km for RM8.
*
I see, currently I had 125ZR which is my dad bike, but he less use d.
But i think my bike RM10 can only go around 120km.
I'm not so good in bike also. What kind of sign consider a perfect tuned?
crappy123
post Mar 7 2014, 01:56 AM

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mod the 125z, lc for daily use. thumbup.gif
NoobboyZzZ
post Mar 7 2014, 02:03 AM

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btw proven that lc5s key locker is quite anti thieft
get broken up the rock but the key hole jamed so the theif cant open it ..
and the handle lock also cant open , but bengkok quite badly..
damage =
road tax get curi , toolset inside lc
need redo roadtax sight, just lucky that bike dint gone off
TSalexei
post Mar 7 2014, 11:37 AM

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QUOTE(jaylim94 @ Mar 6 2014, 11:59 PM)
I see, currently I had 125ZR which is my dad bike, but he less use d.
But i think my bike RM10 can only go around 120km.
I'm not so good in bike also. What kind of sign consider a perfect tuned?
*
Check the plug tip, should be slightly grey ash, and the ground electrode is oil free.
Once bike warmed up, throttle response is good and not too much smoke. Exhaust sound is snappy, and not sluggish.

QUOTE(NoobboyZzZ @ Mar 7 2014, 02:03 AM)
btw proven that lc5s key locker is quite anti thieft
get broken up the rock but the key hole jamed so the theif cant open it ..
and the handle lock also cant open , but bengkok quite badly..
damage =
road tax get curi , toolset inside lc
need redo roadtax sight, just lucky that bike dint gone off
*
Sorry to hear that. Roadtax also want to steal? Must be desperate.
Now better change to new set of ori key lock.

You got put disc lock, right?
wady89
post Mar 7 2014, 12:05 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 6 2014, 11:46 PM)
Air filter can use UNI, or K&N. Not sure how much. Got other high flow ones.
Brake pads got a lot of brand, Elig, Ferodo are some I know. Making sure the pads and disc do not kena oil is the key.
Engine oil can be RM20-50+. Check page one for recommended bike EO.
Fork oil must make sure both side balance. You can use cap ayam RM3, to Motul.
Monoshock Kayaba is pretty good.
Spark plug NGK G-power RM12. Other like Iridium would be expensive around RM50. NGK plug cable about RM30, red color.

These mods above is to let your bike use better parts, and may require some minor setting adjustments such as pilot screw with the installation of high flow air filters. You can easily spend up to RM300~400, and do not get huge improvements.

Stage 2 will really burn your pocket, and that I have no experience.
Need to ask owners like serigala, thianz, crappy123.
The air filter which one better? go for high flow or remove it? if remove it, replace with what?

this minor modi that i read from past version of this group, which one is good? i`m in confius here rclxub.gif

ONE
performance:
1) 57mm block and piston
2) remove air filter (free)
3) 28mm keihin PE carb
4) extra 180 bucks for NOB1 SSS if you can get it from chongkiatz
~RM450 (exclude pipe)

handling:
1) add front fork stabilizer
2) change to bigger rear tyre (90/80)
~RM160

TWO
get a racing CDI , change to clutch plate UMA , add carrier bush faito at clutch shoes ,
nob1 SSS exhaust......can fix ur needed , no need to change any engine part such as block ,
rod cam =D
CDI = RM300
UMA clutch = RM70~80 , labour around RM20
carrier bush = RM10 , labour RM10
nob1 sss exhaust = RM180

THREE
1) use mild camshaft. Recommend to use the custom camshaft that I make if you plan to use stock engine.
2) bigger valve head (21 IN, 19 OUT)
3) port and polish cylinder head
4) stiffer valvespring
5) Racing CDI
6) 28mm carburetor
7) Bigger exhaust manifold
8) remove air filter

The predicted result is, you are able to achieve maximum horsepower from 9000 - 10000rpm.
Power would drop starting from 10krpm, but engine still can rev up to 11krpm.
Just a rough estimation. This way, you can almost preserve the low-mid rpm torque.

And I can guarantee, with the setup above, you can easily ta pau FZ150i

This post has been edited by wady89: Mar 7 2014, 12:21 PM
crappy123
post Mar 7 2014, 02:49 PM

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nob1 less power. use ahm m1 or yy pang. if buy second hand just change fiber. sound very power.
TSalexei
post Mar 7 2014, 02:55 PM

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QUOTE(wady89 @ Mar 7 2014, 12:05 PM)
The air filter which one better? go for high flow or remove it? if remove it, replace with what?

this minor modi that i read from past version of this group, which one is good? i`m in confius here rclxub.gif

*
It depends what you want. You asked for minor mod...
wady89
post Mar 7 2014, 03:32 PM

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QUOTE(crappy123 @ Mar 7 2014, 02:49 PM)
nob1 less power. use ahm m1 or yy pang. if buy second hand just change fiber. sound very power.
*
so your suggestion for minor modi mr.crappy123?

wady89
post Mar 7 2014, 03:33 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 7 2014, 02:55 PM)
It depends what you want. You asked for minor mod...
*
i`m confius xD, maybe little bit understanding ,
sry i just new person want to learn how to modified notworthy.gif
TSalexei
post Mar 7 2014, 04:34 PM

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QUOTE(wady89 @ Mar 7 2014, 03:33 PM)
i`m confius xD, maybe little bit understanding ,
sry i just new person want to learn how to modified notworthy.gif
*
Ride your bike for a while, then figure out what you want to improve, then do it.
jern25
post Mar 7 2014, 05:09 PM

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i noticed, when i ride my new lc, when the speed reaching to 80kmph, there will be a vibration on the footrest. if i slow it down below 80kmph, the vibration is gone.what is the possible cause of this? mileage is only 7++km.
MiztaLegendary
post Mar 7 2014, 09:29 PM

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[QUOTE][quote=alexei,Mar 6 2014, 11:53 PM]
Looking forward to your membership here.[/QUOTE]

Yes man. Im waiting for my bike also. Nd to wait a week to gt tat particular color. sad.gif

The color name is silver3 as in yamaha website. Just tat i noticed new lc es color not so nice compared to 4 speed lc.

Possible to swap the coverset of es with ss?

This post has been edited by MiztaLegendary: Mar 7 2014, 09:29 PM
pedobear1992
post Mar 8 2014, 12:58 AM

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hi guys , just naw i kissed LDP road in front of paradigm , so the results now my handle no straight with the headlamp. and shaky tooo .... how much roughly will cost to repair it. sorry im a newbie sad.gif sad.gif
crappy123
post Mar 8 2014, 01:29 AM

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QUOTE(wady89 @ Mar 7 2014, 03:32 PM)
so your suggestion for minor modi mr.crappy123?
*
if got money and spare bike. straight modi 62mm with 19-22 valves jack 4mm pin nsr carb. sure satisfied.
can ride daily also no problem but makan petrol. depending on how you mechanic setting also.
zildj
post Mar 8 2014, 10:09 PM

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just ordered my new LC no clutch for RM6610, newbie here.. few general question:

1. hard break in or soft break in? which better?
2. plan to install radiator cover to protect it, any recomendation where to get good one?
3. what is the best price per performance ratio for EO?

thanks in advance..
TSalexei
post Mar 8 2014, 11:50 PM

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QUOTE(zildj @ Mar 8 2014, 10:09 PM)
just ordered my new LC no clutch for RM6610, newbie here.. few general question:

1. hard break in or soft break in? which better?
2. plan to install radiator cover to protect it, any recomendation where to get good one?
3. what is the best price per performance ratio for EO?

thanks in advance..
*
1. Some say Diasil no need to break in.
2. Best to DIY using wire mesh, or kasa dawai. Those sold outside just plain rangka that doesn't do well protecting the radiator.
3. Most likely is HDEO.
TSalexei
post Mar 8 2014, 11:53 PM

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QUOTE(pedobear1992 @ Mar 8 2014, 12:58 AM)
hi guys , just naw i kissed LDP road in front of paradigm , so the results now my handle no straight with the headlamp. and shaky tooo .... how much roughly will cost to repair  it. sorry im a newbie sad.gif sad.gif
*
First you'll need to figure out how much damage. Can be up to RM300 to fix everything.
Some possibilities: Steering clamp, steering bar, fork, rim, brake disc, bike frame...
TSalexei
post Mar 8 2014, 11:55 PM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Mar 7 2014, 05:09 PM)
i noticed, when i ride my new lc, when the speed reaching to 80kmph, there  will be a vibration on the footrest. if i slow it down below 80kmph, the vibration is gone.what is the possible cause of this? mileage is only 7++km.
*
Is this your first bike? Is the vibration serious, or minor?
Serious vibration means your feet will be vibrated and slide off the footrest.
Minor means, you can barely feel it just through the tapak kasut, but that's all...
zildj
post Mar 9 2014, 03:13 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 8 2014, 11:50 PM)
1. Some say Diasil no need to break in.
2. Best to DIY using wire mesh, or kasa dawai. Those sold outside just plain rangka that doesn't do well protecting the radiator.
3. Most likely is HDEO.
*
thanks!

1. btw some say which mean better not right?
3. what brand of HDEO you recommend?

thanks
TSalexei
post Mar 9 2014, 03:52 PM

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QUOTE(zildj @ Mar 9 2014, 03:13 PM)
thanks!

1. btw some say which mean better not right?
3. what brand of HDEO you recommend?

thanks
*
You can find it in page 1 tips section on EO. There are a few, from mineral to fully synthetic.
I am using R3X, the cheapest.
wady89
post Mar 9 2014, 10:17 PM

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QUOTE(crappy123 @ Mar 8 2014, 01:29 AM)
if got money and spare bike. straight modi 62mm with 19-22 valves jack 4mm pin nsr carb. sure satisfied.
can ride daily also no problem but makan petrol. depending on how you mechanic setting also.
*
aiseh, petrol now expensive lor hmm.gif
for minor modi?
NoobboyZzZ
post Mar 10 2014, 05:18 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 7 2014, 11:37 AM)
Check the plug tip, should be slightly grey ash, and the ground electrode is oil free.
Once bike warmed up, throttle response is good and not too much smoke. Exhaust sound is snappy, and not sluggish.
Sorry to hear that. Roadtax also want to steal? Must be desperate.
Now better change to new set of ori key lock.

You got put disc lock, right?
*
lol no lock , just the ori lock , broken quite badly ..
now using tranfer my lagenda lock to lc ... to use first laugh.gif
jus replace my roadtax quite a hassle... need go jpj and waited for 5 hour doh.gif
NoobboyZzZ
post Mar 10 2014, 05:20 AM

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QUOTE(zildj @ Mar 8 2014, 10:09 PM)
just ordered my new LC no clutch for RM6610, newbie here.. few general question:

1. hard break in or soft break in? which better?
2. plan to install radiator cover to protect it, any recomendation where to get good one?
3. what is the best price per performance ratio for EO?

thanks in advance..
*
in factory the bike already runed - in if i aint wrong laugh.gif
btw diasil not really needed to break in
just drive it as normal dun simply rem it to max laugh.gif
crappy123
post Mar 10 2014, 07:14 PM

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QUOTE(wady89 @ Mar 9 2014, 10:17 PM)
aiseh, petrol now expensive lor hmm.gif
for minor modi?
*
minor modi can also, in case u not satisfied. jack 4mm.hahah
Rudd
post Mar 10 2014, 10:55 PM

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QUOTE(serigala @ Feb 19 2014, 01:16 AM)
mine 140km if ride 100-120km/h GPS speed
62MM bore with 30mm carb, Leo-vince carbon
*
QUOTE(alexei @ Feb 19 2014, 10:40 AM)
Fuel consumption, one of my favorite topic:

RGV @ 90-100kmh GPS speed, 110-120kmh meter.
Fill tank: 4.5 liter
Highway: 260~280km per tank
City: 180~200km per tank

Check my fuelly stats here: http://www.fuelly.com/driver/alexei/rgv-120
*
mine can only ride 80km with fuel tank.
melaka to shah alam. i need to double fuel tank.
habis minyak when i reached RnR sweat.gif

is there something wrong with my moto?
stock lc v2 doh.gif
TSalexei
post Mar 11 2014, 12:42 AM

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QUOTE(Rudd @ Mar 10 2014, 10:55 PM)
mine can only ride 80km with fuel tank.
melaka to shah alam. i need to double fuel tank.
habis minyak when i reached RnR  sweat.gif

is there something wrong with my moto?
stock lc v2  doh.gif
*
that's bad... my RGV did 280km with 4.8liter full tank on highway.
How fast were you riding at?
Rudd
post Mar 11 2014, 12:59 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 11 2014, 12:42 AM)
that's bad... my RGV did 280km with 4.8liter full tank on highway.
How fast were you riding at?
*
max at 120kmph. moto meter.
jern25
post Mar 11 2014, 09:29 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 8 2014, 11:55 PM)
Is this your first bike? Is the vibration serious, or minor?
Serious vibration means your feet will be vibrated and slide off the footrest.
Minor means, you can barely feel it just through the tapak kasut, but that's all...
*
its my 3rd bike already. its only minor bos.but my previous ex5 didnt experience this before.haha.
XeLLisCompleX
post Mar 11 2014, 09:35 AM

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anyone can recommend which shop sell cash normal LC for the lowest price? Planning to get one end of this month. Btw im staying @ Saujana Utama Sg. Buloh area. Thanks!
wady89
post Mar 11 2014, 03:41 PM

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QUOTE(Rudd @ Mar 11 2014, 12:59 AM)
max at 120kmph. moto meter.
*
i have the same problem too, how to fix? hmm.gif
Rudd
post Mar 11 2014, 03:55 PM

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QUOTE(wady89 @ Mar 11 2014, 03:41 PM)
i have the same problem too, how to fix? hmm.gif
*
i also dunno.
deswai i ask here. sweat.gif
TSalexei
post Mar 11 2014, 09:40 PM

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QUOTE(wady89 @ Mar 11 2014, 03:41 PM)
i have the same problem too, how to fix? hmm.gif
*
QUOTE(Rudd @ Mar 11 2014, 03:55 PM)
i also dunno.
deswai i ask here.  sweat.gif
*
Stock condition mia LC can be like that, especially if the carburator have never been serviced.

Check out here for a list of users who tracks their bike fuel consumption : https://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/yamaha/lc135
As you can see, average users are getting 44-46 km per liter, so at full tank of 4 liter, that's about what you can hope to achieve.

Normally, I'm guessing, you would fill about RM7, which is 3.33 liter, multiply by 45km per liter, you get 150km per tank under normal riding condition.

This post has been edited by alexei: Mar 12 2014, 03:15 PM
zildj
post Mar 12 2014, 11:29 AM

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QUOTE(XeLLisCompleX @ Mar 11 2014, 09:35 AM)
anyone can recommend which shop sell cash normal LC for the lowest price? Planning to get one end of this month. Btw im staying @ Saujana Utama Sg. Buloh area. Thanks!
*
if you dont mind jauh, u can go kapar motors, they sell normal LC 2014 make for rm6580.00 cash with 1st party comprehensive of rm5000 coverage, for 6k coverage add rm30.. they give free rm60 valued helmets, basket, disk lock and raincoat too.. The cheapest ive found after surveying around klang valley..
wady89
post Mar 12 2014, 11:35 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 11 2014, 09:40 PM)
Stock condition mia LC can be like that, especially if the carburator have never been serviced.

Check out here for a list of users who tracks their bike fuel consumption : https://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/yamaha/lc135
As you can see, average users are getting 44-46 km per liter, so at full tank of 4 liter, that's about what you can hope to achieve.

Normally, I'm guessing, you would fill about RM7, which is 3.33 liter, multiply by 45km per liter, you get 150km per tank under normal riding condition.

After you service the carb, then track your mileage again.
The main tip to save petrol is all in the throttle control:
- Do not rev your bike at traffic light. Especially for VM carbs (mikuni round slide, all version except ES v2) because there is accelerator pump.
- Check out this video, it shows how the accelerator pump injects petrol stream into the carb as the throttle is pulled.
- Go easy on the throttle when twisting. The slower you twist it, the lesser the accelerator pump injects petrol.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Other than that, you can try the tips below:
Pilot jet screw:
- For LC, this is a pilot fuel screw, so, the more turn out, the richer the pilot fuel circuit is.
- During carb setting, if it takes less than 1 5/8 turn to get a smooth idle for pilot screw, change to a smaller pilot jet.
- The ideal pilot jet and screw setting is, at around 1 5/8 turn of pilot screw, the bike will need a choke to start when cold, but once warmed up, off idle throttle response is good.

The above is step one, to improve your carb setting... if you can do it, let me know, then I will share some more.
It will take you a few days to figure out if the setting is right, because you need to let the bike sit cold overnight, and try to start it the next morning.
*
nice solution, may try it this evening...

what should i tell pomen if i wanted to adjust the pilot jet? or can i make it myself?
TSalexei
post Mar 12 2014, 02:11 PM

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QUOTE(wady89 @ Mar 12 2014, 11:35 AM)
nice solution, may try it this evening...

what should i tell pomen if i wanted to adjust the pilot jet? or can i make it myself?
*
you can try talk to pomen to use leaner pilot jet.
jern25
post Mar 13 2014, 11:54 AM

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did anyone ever travel long distance with std LC? can LC manage to travel from KL to Kuantan?
TSalexei
post Mar 13 2014, 02:02 PM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Mar 13 2014, 11:54 AM)
did anyone ever travel long distance with std LC? can LC manage to travel from KL to Kuantan?
*
There's been a lot of LC convoys.
KL - Kuantan you can try ask are_keem, who used to go KT, IINM.
XeLLisCompleX
post Mar 13 2014, 03:57 PM

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QUOTE(zildj @ Mar 12 2014, 11:29 AM)
if you dont mind jauh, u can go kapar motors, they sell normal LC 2014 make for rm6580.00 cash with 1st party comprehensive of rm5000 coverage, for 6k coverage add rm30.. they give free rm60 valued helmets, basket, disk lock and raincoat too.. The cheapest ive found after surveying around klang valley..
*
You have a full address of the shop bro? Thinking of getting the bike really soon, next week maybe, I can go to the shop to deal first. and yes that price is the cheapest I heard so far for cash. Thanks for sharing.
zildj
post Mar 13 2014, 08:23 PM

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QUOTE(XeLLisCompleX @ Mar 13 2014, 03:57 PM)
You have a full address of the shop bro? Thinking of getting the bike really soon, next week maybe, I can go to the shop to deal first. and yes that price is the cheapest I heard so far for cash. Thanks for sharing.
*
https://maps.google.com.my/maps?q=Kapar+Mot...=m&z=17&iwloc=A
serigala
post Mar 13 2014, 10:31 PM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Mar 13 2014, 11:54 AM)
did anyone ever travel long distance with std LC? can LC manage to travel from KL to Kuantan?
*
sure, no prob for a standard ones..
KL kuantan is not that far..

Kwar
post Mar 14 2014, 09:22 PM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Mar 13 2014, 11:54 AM)
did anyone ever travel long distance with std LC? can LC manage to travel from KL to Kuantan?
*
Kl kuantan i not sure. But i have done melaka to selangor twice. Average around 3 hours+ ride cover 250km. Refill petrol 15 ringgit.

Average speed 110 btw.

This post has been edited by Kwar: Mar 14 2014, 09:24 PM
Daneillum
post Mar 15 2014, 08:29 PM

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QUOTE(zildj @ Mar 8 2014, 10:09 PM)
just ordered my new LC no clutch for RM6610, newbie here.. few general question:

1. hard break in or soft break in? which better?
2. plan to install radiator cover to protect it, any recomendation where to get good one?
3. what is the best price per performance ratio for EO?

thanks in advance..
*
1. Don't use 4th gear if u riding slow.
2. Don't install anything cos it's not recommended
By yamaha - air circulation bad if install radiator cover.
3. 1st 300km I've changed my EO. Actually, is 500km.
I'm using mineral EO yamahalube.
1000km changed EO. 2000km I start using
Semi synthetic. Then, every 2000 change EO.

NewGUY
post Mar 17 2014, 01:42 AM

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mine fuelly LC 145 and LC 177 (not much data yet) bike still in bengkel, due to pomen 2 accident, 1 head crack and 1 fall down and pomen boss already buy ticket holiday so LC 177 still not complete maybe next week 5 week liao...

Bro Alexei, is LC chasis can autofoam, this some crazy fren tot of how to strengthen LC chassis... of cos weight increase...
TSalexei
post Mar 17 2014, 10:45 AM

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QUOTE(NewGUY @ Mar 17 2014, 01:42 AM)
Bro Alexei, is LC chasis can autofoam, this some crazy fren tot of how to strengthen LC chassis... of cos weight increase...
*
Hi bro,
Autofoam will increase the stiffness of chassis, not the strength, and there are pros and cons to that.
Remember, the autofoam may not be fully removed later on.

Short answer is, I don't know for sure what happens. Some of the possibilities includes:
- Chassis stiffness increase, not the strength.
- Engine and road vibration will be more apparent to the rider.
- Uneven application of the foam may cause imbalance to the bike.
- Increased stiffness may increase the rate of joint metal fatigue. Meaning, the weaker part of the chassis will start to show signs of crack or break faster.
- Avoid internal rusting.

Perhaps I would give it a try, on the main underbone.
crappy123
post Mar 17 2014, 11:45 PM

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original chasis not good enough?
jern25
post Mar 19 2014, 10:56 AM

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just done my 1st 1000km service yesterday. the mechanic there recommend me NASA 10w-40. since he also use lc, then i give it a try this time. has any of us ever tried that EO before?

btw, the mechanic also told me that the oil filter no need to change. just change it during 3rd service. is it normal?
Kwar
post Mar 21 2014, 12:20 AM

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Hey guys. Fz block if from indonesia good quality? Found this guy selling block+cam+spring for 400 only.
Daneillum
post Mar 21 2014, 09:18 AM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Mar 19 2014, 10:56 AM)
just done my 1st 1000km service yesterday. the mechanic there recommend me NASA 10w-40. since he also use lc, then i give it a try this time. has any of us ever tried that EO before?

btw, the mechanic also told me that the oil filter no need to change. just change it during 3rd service. is it normal?
*
Recommended replace every 2 times EO CHANGED
MiztaLegendary
post Mar 21 2014, 09:57 AM

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Goin to tke my bike today smile.gif
jern25
post Mar 21 2014, 11:52 AM

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QUOTE(MiztaLegendary @ Mar 21 2014, 09:57 AM)
Goin to tke my bike today smile.gif
*
congrats bro
jern25
post Mar 21 2014, 04:54 PM

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where can i get this kind of contre box? and how much is the price estimatedly?

user posted image

This post has been edited by jern25: Mar 21 2014, 04:57 PM
freakyNeo
post Mar 21 2014, 06:14 PM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Mar 21 2014, 05:54 PM)
where can i get this kind of contre box? and how much is the price estimatedly?

user posted image
*
Kappa Box, around RM80. NKS sentul got one.
freakyNeo
post Mar 21 2014, 06:22 PM

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Hi guys. I'm new here. Just want to ask anyone familiar with any bike shop that I can get an Original Coverset V2 for LC with customs stripe in Klang area? Thank you.
MiztaLegendary
post Mar 21 2014, 09:15 PM

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New user reporting in. 135LC ES V2 SilverBlue 21/3/2014


user posted image
My bike's azz...
punkLOL
post Mar 22 2014, 03:53 PM

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hi guys, anyone here modified yamaha lc with ABS?
serigala
post Mar 23 2014, 01:37 PM

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QUOTE(punkLOL @ Mar 22 2014, 03:53 PM)
hi guys, anyone here modified yamaha lc with ABS?
*
which ABS? the fake pseudo ABS or the real-deal motorized ABS?
TSalexei
post Mar 23 2014, 02:49 PM

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QUOTE(MiztaLegendary @ Mar 21 2014, 09:15 PM)
New user reporting in. 135LC ES V2 SilverBlue 21/3/2014
*
Added. Welcome... I guess you're from Penang, then?
wady89
post Mar 24 2014, 03:47 PM

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user posted image

Guys, where can i find this part? icon_question.gif
some fool steal it rclxub.gif rclxub.gif
freakyNeo
post Mar 24 2014, 05:52 PM

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Hi Guys, just want to ask anyone here know what kind of Sport Rim and Sprocket this bike using? Thanks.

user posted image
serigala
post Mar 24 2014, 08:49 PM

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QUOTE(freakyNeo @ Mar 24 2014, 05:52 PM)
Hi Guys, just want to ask anyone here know what kind of Sport Rim and Sprocket this bike using? Thanks.

user posted image
*
Rim racing boy 522
picture
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


sprocket
Sinnob
picture
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

MiztaLegendary
post Mar 25 2014, 01:44 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 23 2014, 02:49 PM)
Added. Welcome... I guess you're from Penang, then?
*
Yes bro. Im on mainland. U?
Now only my bike clocked 45km icon_idea.gif
Any modification recommendation on new bike?
Are_keem
post Mar 25 2014, 11:19 PM

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Long time didn't post here, and somehow I haven't leave any mark in this new version laugh.gif
So time for throwback, last picture of my ride before it's sold sad.gif

user posted image
serigala
post Mar 26 2014, 05:59 AM

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QUOTE(Are_keem @ Mar 25 2014, 11:19 PM)
Long time didn't post here, and somehow I haven't leave any mark in this new version laugh.gif
So time for throwback, last picture of my ride before it's sold sad.gif

user posted image
*
rindu le tew..

nerp
post Mar 26 2014, 01:00 PM

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hello bros..wanna ask..

for dis modi,
blok ikk 62,
hi cam cms,
cj ipoh mb,
sprocket 15-35 sss,
carb standard..
what is the best size for mj n pj?

tq biggrin.gif
MiztaLegendary
post Mar 26 2014, 04:11 PM

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QUOTE(freakyNeo @ Mar 21 2014, 06:14 PM)
Kappa Box, around RM80. NKS sentul got one.
*
Im finding for it too. Its Kappa K10N i guess.
Any shops in penang have this?
TSalexei
post Mar 26 2014, 10:41 PM

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QUOTE(Are_keem @ Mar 25 2014, 11:19 PM)
Long time didn't post here, and somehow I haven't leave any mark in this new version laugh.gif
So time for throwback, last picture of my ride before it's sold sad.gif
*
Added to front page...
What do you ride now? Still the same bike?
TSalexei
post Mar 26 2014, 10:42 PM

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QUOTE(MiztaLegendary @ Mar 25 2014, 01:44 PM)
Yes bro. Im on mainland. U?
Now only my bike clocked 45km  icon_idea.gif
Any modification recommendation on new bike?
*
Islander... Please checkout page 1, if any specific topic you're interested in.
For new bike, nothing much, except accessories I guess...
Are_keem
post Mar 27 2014, 11:09 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 26 2014, 10:41 PM)
Added to front page...
What do you ride now? Still the same bike?
*
Thanks bro biggrin.gif

Still stick with Lagenda 115Z, if upgrade maybe in next 2-3 years. Aiming for XJ6/CBR650 after settle down blush.gif
TSalexei
post Mar 27 2014, 11:47 AM

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QUOTE(Are_keem @ Mar 27 2014, 11:09 AM)
Thanks bro biggrin.gif

Still stick with Lagenda 115Z, if upgrade maybe in next 2-3 years. Aiming for XJ6/CBR650 after settle down blush.gif
*
sign0006.gif
IMO, 600cc won't be enough, still. Do consider one of those triples...
Add 250cc for 33% more peak torque and flatter response... am referring to FZ-09.

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jern25
post Mar 28 2014, 11:02 AM

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i just ask a shop in bangsar duro 918, 90/80. they quote me rm125 for it. damn expensive.
freakyNeo
post Mar 28 2014, 11:42 AM

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QUOTE(serigala @ Mar 24 2014, 09:49 PM)
Rim racing boy 522
picture
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


sprocket
Sinnob
picture
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
Thanks bro. notworthy.gif notworthy.gif
freakyNeo
post Mar 28 2014, 12:20 PM

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Newbie reporting in. LC135 SS year 2014; 2 months old but coverset already change to v2. sweat.gif
Thank you rclxm9.gif

user posted image
MiztaLegendary
post Mar 29 2014, 05:04 PM

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QUOTE(freakyNeo @ Mar 28 2014, 12:20 PM)
Newbie reporting in. LC135 SS year 2014; 2 months old but coverset already change to v2.  sweat.gif
Thank you  rclxm9.gif

user posted image
*
How much is the cover set bro?
Im planning to chg mine too.

freakyNeo
post Mar 30 2014, 05:13 AM

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QUOTE(MiztaLegendary @ Mar 29 2014, 06:04 PM)
How much is the cover set bro?
Im planning to chg mine too.
*
Coverset around rm185, buy from dealer not at bikeshop. If you buy at bikeshop they already markup atleast rm210. Stripe sticker rm85 original. Signal lamp from 2014 change to v2 eagle eye rm100 and front inner rm38.

XeLLisCompleX
post Mar 31 2014, 04:23 PM

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Im sure this topic already been raised up before but can I know what is the best/ secured lock that can be used for LC?
TSalexei
post Mar 31 2014, 10:19 PM

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QUOTE(freakyNeo @ Mar 28 2014, 12:20 PM)
Newbie reporting in. LC135 SS year 2014; 2 months old but coverset already change to v2.  sweat.gif
Thank you  rclxm9.gif
*
welcome... added to namelist and bikelist.
TSalexei
post Mar 31 2014, 10:44 PM

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QUOTE(XeLLisCompleX @ Mar 31 2014, 04:23 PM)
Im sure this topic already been raised up before but can I know what is the best/ secured lock that can be used for LC?
*
Nobody knows for sure, Xena 2 with alarm used to be highly recommended.
To me, a decent chain with padlock, locking up both the wheels to the fork and swingarm is the best.

Just bear in mind, a lock can only be deterrent to a thief. Use some common sense how to apply the lock.

Here are some of the things they could do to mess with your bike:
- Rim and fork lock - Low. Too many weak link, so IMO it is not secure.
- Disc lock - Moderate. Thief can remove your rim, open the disc, and put back the rim and ride off. Cheap locks are not stainless mechanism, so after a while, the key mechanism will jam inside and cannot be opened.
- Standard steering lock with magnet cover - Moderate. Can be dismantled, or break open by force. In some cases, the steering head will loosen first before the lock is broken. So, in case your bike kena langgar, check the steering lock for cracks and have it replaced.
- Rear sprocket padlock or disc lock - More secure than putting the disc lock at front disc, but can be messy due to chain oil.
- Long chain with padlock securing the bike to a pillar or something - Must have good padlock. More secure, but troublesome and can scratch coverset.
- Bicycle lock - Cheap one can open with hammer.
- Immobilizer - some add on electronics to guard your bike from unwanted ignition. Can simply DIY and hidden switch to the battery terminal or the CDI. Make sure wiring is installed correctly. No alarm is better, otherwise the thief will know your bike got alarm, and prepare for it.

For a good padlock, prepare to spend RM50+ each.
If the padlock is RM50 for 2 or 3, it is for hiasan, and will not stand a chance.
serigala
post Mar 31 2014, 11:42 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 31 2014, 10:44 PM)
Nobody knows for sure, Xena 2 with alarm used to be highly recommended.
To me, a decent chain with padlock, locking up both the wheels to the fork and swingarm is the best.

Just bear in mind, a lock can only be deterrent to a thief. Use some common sense how to apply the lock.

Here are some of the things they could do to mess with your bike:
- Rim and fork lock - Low. Too many weak link, so IMO it is not secure.
- Disc lock - Moderate. Thief can remove your rim, open the disc, and put back the rim and ride off. Cheap locks are not stainless mechanism, so after a while, the key mechanism will jam inside and cannot be opened.
- Standard steering lock with magnet cover - Moderate. Can be dismantled, or break open by force. In some cases, the steering head will loosen first before the lock is broken. So, in case your bike kena langgar, check the steering lock for cracks and have it replaced.
- Rear sprocket padlock or disc lock - More secure than putting the disc lock at front disc, but can be messy due to chain oil.
- Long chain with padlock securing the bike to a pillar or something - Must have good padlock. More secure, but troublesome and can scratch coverset.
- Bicycle lock - Cheap one can open with hammer.
- Immobilizer - some add on electronics to guard your bike from unwanted ignition. Can simply DIY and hidden switch to the battery terminal or the CDI. Make sure wiring is installed correctly. No alarm is better, otherwise the thief will know your bike got alarm, and prepare for it.

For a good padlock, prepare to spend RM50+ each.
If the padlock is RM50 for 2 or 3, it is for hiasan, and will not stand a chance.
*
What about double stand lock?
TSalexei
post Apr 1 2014, 09:59 AM

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QUOTE(serigala @ Mar 31 2014, 11:42 PM)
What about double stand lock?
*
I wanted to add that, but wasn't sure if LC has that. Does it?

IMO, I would say, it will be as good as the lock used. Double stand lock is troublesome to attach, since everytime you need to squat down to reach below the bike, but it is even more troublesome for a thief trying to break it. However, a thief can try to pry it open, but if the lock can withstand it, the lock ring would bend first.

What you think, bro?
XeLLisCompleX
post Apr 1 2014, 10:06 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Mar 31 2014, 10:44 PM)
Nobody knows for sure, Xena 2 with alarm used to be highly recommended.
To me, a decent chain with padlock, locking up both the wheels to the fork and swingarm is the best.

Just bear in mind, a lock can only be deterrent to a thief. Use some common sense how to apply the lock.

Here are some of the things they could do to mess with your bike:
- Rim and fork lock - Low. Too many weak link, so IMO it is not secure.
- Disc lock - Moderate. Thief can remove your rim, open the disc, and put back the rim and ride off. Cheap locks are not stainless mechanism, so after a while, the key mechanism will jam inside and cannot be opened.
- Standard steering lock with magnet cover - Moderate. Can be dismantled, or break open by force. In some cases, the steering head will loosen first before the lock is broken. So, in case your bike kena langgar, check the steering lock for cracks and have it replaced.
- Rear sprocket padlock or disc lock - More secure than putting the disc lock at front disc, but can be messy due to chain oil.
- Long chain with padlock securing the bike to a pillar or something - Must have good padlock. More secure, but troublesome and can scratch coverset.
- Bicycle lock - Cheap one can open with hammer.
- Immobilizer - some add on electronics to guard your bike from unwanted ignition. Can simply DIY and hidden switch to the battery terminal or the CDI. Make sure wiring is installed correctly. No alarm is better, otherwise the thief will know your bike got alarm, and prepare for it.

For a good padlock, prepare to spend RM50+ each.
If the padlock is RM50 for 2 or 3, it is for hiasan, and will not stand a chance.
*
the immobilizer seems interesting, is it expensive?
Rascal Stitch
post Apr 1 2014, 11:09 AM

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QUOTE(Are_keem @ Mar 26 2014, 12:19 AM)
Long time didn't post here, and somehow I haven't leave any mark in this new version laugh.gif
So time for throwback, last picture of my ride before it's sold sad.gif

user posted image
*

wow,macam movie leave d 1 love~ laugh.gif


QUOTE(serigala @ Mar 26 2014, 06:59 AM)
rindu le tew..
*

laugh.gif laugh.gif

serigala
post Apr 1 2014, 02:38 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Apr 1 2014, 09:59 AM)
I wanted to add that, but wasn't sure if LC has that. Does it?

IMO, I would say, it will be as good as the lock used. Double stand lock is troublesome to attach, since everytime you need to squat down to reach below the bike, but it is even more troublesome for a thief trying to break it. However, a thief can try to pry it open, but if the lock can withstand it, the lock ring would bend first.

What you think, bro?
*
it does..
and the steel is pretty much thick..
spend Rm50 for a good side padlock and it will be a good anti-theft device
lock like this
user posted image
Are_keem
post Apr 1 2014, 10:08 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Apr 1 2014, 09:59 AM)
I wanted to add that, but wasn't sure if LC has that. Does it?

IMO, I would say, it will be as good as the lock used. Double stand lock is troublesome to attach, since everytime you need to squat down to reach below the bike, but it is even more troublesome for a thief trying to break it. However, a thief can try to pry it open, but if the lock can withstand it, the lock ring would bend first.

What you think, bro?
*
Only LC V1 has double stand lock, but not V2. Not sure why they remove it then yawn.gif

I remembered last time when I left my bike at hostel during one week break, I did lock the double stand using those cheapo Globe brand lock. After coming back from holiday, I noticed that it seemed somebody tried to push/move my bike since the lock's ring is bent. So I would say double stand lock is quite reliable, plus using three circle brand lock also recommended thumbup.gif
TSalexei
post Apr 1 2014, 10:33 PM

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QUOTE(Are_keem @ Apr 1 2014, 10:08 PM)
Only LC V1 has double stand lock, but not V2. Not sure why they remove it then yawn.gif

I remembered last time when I left my bike at hostel during one week break, I did lock the double stand using those cheapo Globe brand lock. After coming back from holiday, I noticed that it seemed somebody tried to push/move my bike since the lock's ring is bent. So I would say double stand lock is quite reliable, plus using three circle brand lock also recommended thumbup.gif
*
Good for you. And yeah, that's exactly how I imagined it.
Kwar
post Apr 2 2014, 12:41 AM

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Guys anyone have install the x1r digital meter on v2 b4? Need to know where to connect these two red and blue wires. Any idea?
Erza Scarlet
post Apr 3 2014, 12:20 PM

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Where can i get michelin tyre for 135lc?. Anyone know the estimate price for it?
MiztaLegendary
post Apr 3 2014, 02:52 PM

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Where to get the TPS connector?
XeLLisCompleX
post Apr 3 2014, 03:31 PM

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Anyone heard about using 'ubat gegat' to reduce oil consumption? Just put 1pcs inside tank when fill in fuel full tank. is it true?
Are_keem
post Apr 4 2014, 12:44 PM

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QUOTE(XeLLisCompleX @ Apr 3 2014, 03:31 PM)
Anyone heard about using 'ubat gegat' to reduce oil consumption? Just put 1pcs inside tank when fill in fuel full tank. is it true?
*
Cheapo trick to increase the octane number (RON) of the fuel. Sorry not much time to elaborate on this, but you could google about naphthalene (substance that made up those 'ubat gegat' or mothballs), their effect on fuel's octane number and what RON number did with fuel consumption.
jern25
post Apr 4 2014, 04:59 PM

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QUOTE(Are_keem @ Apr 4 2014, 12:44 PM)
Cheapo trick to increase the octane number (RON) of the fuel. Sorry not much time to elaborate on this, but you could google about naphthalene (substance that made up those 'ubat gegat' or mothballs), their effect on fuel's octane number and what RON number did with fuel consumption.
*
waaa...this is new.
Erza Scarlet
post Apr 4 2014, 08:32 PM

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Is there any bad side effect of using Iridium spark plug on standard 135LC engine and where i can get Michelin pilot sporty tyre in KL?

This post has been edited by Erza Scarlet: Apr 4 2014, 08:32 PM
TSalexei
post Apr 4 2014, 11:37 PM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Apr 4 2014, 04:59 PM)
waaa...this is new.
*
nope. some use acetone.
Rascal Stitch
post Apr 5 2014, 06:04 PM

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QUOTE(Erza Scarlet @ Apr 4 2014, 09:32 PM)
Is there any bad side effect of using Iridium spark plug on standard 135LC engine and where i can get Michelin pilot sporty tyre in KL?
*
where r u staying 1st??
u dun mention ard from there so how to recommend u?
crappy123
post Apr 6 2014, 02:16 AM

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QUOTE(Kwar @ Apr 2 2014, 12:41 AM)
Guys anyone have install the x1r digital meter on v2 b4? Need to know where to connect these two red and blue wires. Any idea?
*
no idea man, try go shop.
XeLLisCompleX
post Apr 7 2014, 10:27 AM

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QUOTE(Are_keem @ Apr 4 2014, 12:44 PM)
Cheapo trick to increase the octane number (RON) of the fuel. Sorry not much time to elaborate on this, but you could google about naphthalene (substance that made up those 'ubat gegat' or mothballs), their effect on fuel's octane number and what RON number did with fuel consumption.
*
Ic, will do the research.. haha
Kwar
post Apr 7 2014, 07:07 PM

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QUOTE(crappy123 @ Apr 6 2014, 02:16 AM)
no idea man, try go shop.
*
nvm got it haha, i send to shop, even they dunno how to install haha.. all blur blur
TSalexei
post Apr 8 2014, 09:58 PM

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QUOTE(Kwar @ Apr 7 2014, 07:07 PM)
nvm got it haha, i send to shop, even they dunno how to install haha.. all blur blur
*
Need to find the wiring diagram to figure out... Do you have pic of the item?
Kwar
post Apr 11 2014, 06:12 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Apr 8 2014, 09:58 PM)
Need to find the wiring diagram to figure out... Do you have pic of the item?
*
The manual didnt provide the wiring diagram. It only state that connect the blue to ignition and red to ignition coil. So far just donno where the ignition coil is now so the rpm feature still not available haha.
TSalexei
post Apr 13 2014, 08:12 PM

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QUOTE(Kwar @ Apr 11 2014, 06:12 PM)
The manual didnt provide the wiring diagram. It only state that connect the blue to ignition and red to ignition coil. So far just donno where the ignition coil is now so the rpm feature still not available haha.
*
Then you need to find the wiring diagram for LC and figure out the ignition coil wire.
Kwar
post Apr 14 2014, 05:29 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Apr 13 2014, 08:12 PM)
Then you need to find the wiring diagram for LC and figure out the ignition coil wire.
*
yep, been trying to do that, but dunno where my manual went haha, possibly in the manual hmm.gif .
TSalexei
post Apr 14 2014, 09:10 PM

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QUOTE(Kwar @ Apr 14 2014, 05:29 PM)
yep, been trying to do that, but dunno where my manual went haha, possibly in the manual  hmm.gif .
*
You must've not tried uncle google.
Here you go, look for wire #11:
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XeLLisCompleX
post Apr 15 2014, 11:40 AM

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what is the cost to install rear dics brake to LC SS version?
XeLLisCompleX
post Apr 15 2014, 11:40 AM

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what is the cost to install rear dics brake to LC SS version?
XeLLisCompleX
post Apr 15 2014, 11:41 AM

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what is the cost to install rear dics brake to LC SS version?
serigala
post Apr 15 2014, 12:52 PM

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QUOTE(XeLLisCompleX @ Apr 15 2014, 11:41 AM)
what is the cost to install rear dics brake to LC SS version?
*
depend on what grade material u want to use..
starting from RM250 to 1500
XeLLisCompleX
post Apr 15 2014, 01:44 PM

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QUOTE(serigala @ Apr 15 2014, 12:52 PM)
depend on what grade material u want to use..
starting from RM250  to 1500
*
how bout the original yamaha ES rear disc brake, got any shop selling outside? and how much?
TSalexei
post Apr 19 2014, 10:25 PM

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QUOTE(XeLLisCompleX @ Apr 15 2014, 01:44 PM)
how bout the original yamaha ES rear disc brake, got any shop selling outside? and how much?
*
You'll need to pay for some extra stuff, like footrest modification and labor charges.
I'm guessing a ballpark of RM300~500.

Parts you'll need: Rim, disc, brake pump, brake hose, reservoir, brake fluid, brake pads.
Mods you'll need: Swing arm for caliper mount, footrest for brake pump, brake reservoir mount.
ave666
post Apr 20 2014, 05:40 PM

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New user here

This post has been edited by ave666: Apr 20 2014, 05:55 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
TSalexei
post Apr 20 2014, 09:20 PM

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QUOTE(ave666 @ Apr 20 2014, 05:40 PM)
New user here
*
Added, and welcome.
Which state are you from? Is it Kelantan?

This post has been edited by alexei: Apr 20 2014, 09:21 PM
ave666
post Apr 21 2014, 11:41 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Apr 20 2014, 09:20 PM)
Added, and welcome.
Which state are you from? Is it Kelantan?
*
Setapak
XeLLisCompleX
post Apr 21 2014, 12:20 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Apr 19 2014, 10:25 PM)
You'll need to pay for some extra stuff, like footrest modification and labor charges.
I'm guessing a ballpark of RM300~500.

Parts you'll need: Rim, disc, brake pump, brake hose, reservoir, brake fluid, brake pads.
Mods you'll need: Swing arm for caliper mount, footrest for brake pump, brake reservoir mount.
*
thanks for the info. need to save money first then.. haha
TSalexei
post Apr 22 2014, 09:56 AM

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QUOTE(ave666 @ Apr 21 2014, 11:41 AM)
Setapak
*
Ok, thanks... I thought I saw the number plate starting with 'D'.
Welcome to the club. Feel free to go through post #1 for some of the compiled learnings and trips, and ask any questions or seek better understanding.

Disclaimer: I do not own an LC, but been long time with this forum crowd.
ave666
post Apr 22 2014, 11:15 AM

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B. Using old esthetic no
boyadarat
post Apr 26 2014, 12:10 AM

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hey guys, im an LC user but dont have much knowledge about this bike.
1 think that trouble me is that, since the last time i change my tire, the bike got some kind of sekat2, like the some 1 pull it from behind when going through a small hole or the yellw line on the road. i suspect maybe the tire too much air but reduce the air also not solve. ask my friend and some said maybe because of chain or suspension. dont wanna go shop yet scared got charge to check. anybody got problem like mine? any solution?
serigala
post Apr 27 2014, 07:07 PM

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QUOTE(boyadarat @ Apr 26 2014, 12:10 AM)
hey guys, im an LC user but dont have much knowledge about this bike.
1 think that trouble me is that, since the last time i change my tire, the bike got some kind of sekat2, like the some 1 pull it from behind when going through a small hole or the yellw line on the road.  i suspect maybe the tire too much air but reduce the air also not solve. ask my friend and some said maybe because of chain or suspension. dont wanna go shop yet scared got charge to check. anybody got problem like mine? any solution?
*
LC model?
tire size? front or rear?

radiohear
post Apr 28 2014, 01:49 PM

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Guys planning to get lc135 supersport this may.. Which color is nice? I like white but.. Kena rajin mau jaga kan.. Easy nampak kotor..
TSalexei
post Apr 29 2014, 10:37 AM

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boyadaratCheck the chain, is it too tight?
Make sure when you sit on it, there is free play with the chain.

radiohearBuy what you like. Would you regret more if you have chosen another color, but still wished you have taken the white instead?
mp3737
post Apr 29 2014, 11:40 PM

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newbie here


piju
post Apr 29 2014, 11:49 PM

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Hello guys,
newbie here.
i own a 2013 yamaha lc 4 speed.
i read about CJ IPOH MB 28mm exhaust standard cutting (same design as original yamaha exhaust)
can i install it to my standard (no modifications) bike?
is there any bad effect after i install it ?

nerp
post May 1 2014, 05:10 PM

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some ppl say it can affect the block since it will become too 'lawas'..
but i've used the cj ipoh mb for a few months, am using std block, my block still in good cond..
depend on rider maybe..

but i advice u to change to bigger block, use fz blok or ceramic block like ikk, cms or etc..
thumbup.gif
mp3737
post May 1 2014, 07:18 PM

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QUOTE(piju @ Apr 29 2014, 11:49 PM)
Hello guys,
newbie here.
i own a 2013 yamaha lc 4 speed.
i read about CJ IPOH MB 28mm exhaust standard cutting (same design as original yamaha exhaust)
can i install it to my standard (no modifications) bike?
is there any bad effect after i install it ?
*
when my bike is new(1week), i have change the CDI(Racing CDI) n exhaust(CJ Ipoh 24mm) ...more pick up(NICE)
mp3737
post May 1 2014, 07:19 PM

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QUOTE(piju @ Apr 29 2014, 11:49 PM)
Hello guys,
newbie here.
i own a 2013 yamaha lc 4 speed.
i read about CJ IPOH MB 28mm exhaust standard cutting (same design as original yamaha exhaust)
can i install it to my standard (no modifications) bike?
is there any bad effect after i install it ?
*
when my bike is new(1week), i have change the CDI(Racing CDI,but u have to by pass the fan add a switch to on/off) n exhaust(CJ Ipoh 24mm) ...more pick up(NICE)..
thianz
post May 4 2014, 09:14 PM

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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


parking ...... dulu .. motor baru siap pasang balik ... rclxms.gif rclxms.gif
thianz
post May 4 2014, 09:21 PM

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QUOTE(mp3737 @ May 1 2014, 07:19 PM)
when my bike is new(1week), i have change the CDI(Racing CDI,but u have to by pass the fan add a switch to on/off) n exhaust(CJ Ipoh 24mm) ...more pick up(NICE)..
*
change CDI pun mau buat switch for fan ??? ohmy.gif sweat.gif
TSalexei
post May 5 2014, 09:57 AM

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QUOTE(thianz @ May 4 2014, 09:14 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


parking ...... dulu .. motor baru siap pasang balik ...  rclxms.gif  rclxms.gif
*
hey man, what happened?
thianz
post May 5 2014, 07:01 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 5 2014, 09:57 AM)
hey man, what happened?
*
do top service .... sudah buka .. xde masa pasang .... brows.gif brows.gif almost 4-5 month i dump there ... sweat.gif
lms2005
post May 5 2014, 11:51 PM

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Hi there... new 5s user reported: )
TSalexei
post May 6 2014, 08:07 AM

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thianzDrive bigger bike only now? LC put aside mostly? Haha...

QUOTE(lms2005 @ May 5 2014, 11:51 PM)
Hi there... new 5s user reported: )
*
Lokasi mana? Do you want to be added to front page?
Can attach a photo also. rclxm9.gif

This post has been edited by alexei: May 6 2014, 08:08 AM
piju
post May 7 2014, 09:48 PM

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Guys, i need to know about air/fuel mixture screw setting for stock lc v2 4 speed. anybody knows please tell me. how many counter clockwise turns from the fully closed position? it is hard for me to find the stock setting because of new carburator that lc v2 use is mikuni bs25. it has rubber diaphragm that controls the needle jet. so, if you twist the throttle, it would have some delays before the air/fuel mixture being suck by the piston.

thanks.
thianz
post May 7 2014, 09:57 PM

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QUOTE(piju @ May 7 2014, 09:48 PM)
Guys, i need to know about air/fuel mixture screw setting for stock lc v2 4 speed. anybody knows please tell me. how many counter clockwise turns from the fully closed position? it is hard for me to find the stock setting because of new carburator that lc v2 use is mikuni bs25. it has rubber diaphragm that controls the needle jet. so, if you twist the throttle, it would have some delays before the air/fuel mixture being suck by the piston.

thanks.
*
u pergi kacau ??? laugh.gif laugh.gif
lms2005
post May 8 2014, 12:36 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 6 2014, 08:07 AM)
thianzDrive bigger bike only now? LC put aside mostly? Haha...
Lokasi mana? Do you want to be added to front page?
Can attach a photo also. rclxm9.gif
*
No photo yet... eveything still stock..
piju
post May 8 2014, 01:57 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ May 7 2014, 09:57 PM)
u pergi kacau ???  laugh.gif  laugh.gif
*
yes. i changed from stock paper air filter to high flow air filter. now i set the air/fuel screw to 5 turns out from fully closed position.

lms2005
post May 8 2014, 03:03 PM

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QUOTE(piju @ May 8 2014, 01:57 PM)
yes. i changed from stock paper air filter to high flow air filter. now i set the air/fuel screw to 5 turns out from fully closed position.
*
Wrong setting can cause high fc whistling.gif
piju
post May 8 2014, 03:06 PM

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QUOTE(lms2005 @ May 8 2014, 03:03 PM)
Wrong setting can cause high fc  whistling.gif
*
yes. i know that. this is why i'm asking here. hope you guys can help me to find perfect setting for mikuni bs25 carburetor.
lms2005
post May 8 2014, 03:09 PM

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QUOTE(piju @ May 8 2014, 03:06 PM)
yes. i know that. this is why i'm asking here. hope you guys can help me to find perfect setting for mikuni bs25 carburetor.
*
Different bike same model setting also different. Go find sifu tune for u.

Or u can try from pusing 1/4, 1/2, 3/4...
piju
post May 8 2014, 03:15 PM

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QUOTE(lms2005 @ May 8 2014, 03:09 PM)
Different bike same model setting also different. Go find sifu tune for u.

Or u can try from pusing 1/4, 1/2, 3/4...
*
on the left side of mikuni bs25 there is a screw located near the intake manifold. is that fuel screw or air/fuel mixture screw ?
thianz
post May 8 2014, 04:51 PM

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QUOTE(piju @ May 8 2014, 03:15 PM)
on the left side of mikuni bs25 there is a screw located near the intake manifold. is that fuel screw or air/fuel mixture screw ?
*
kacau air screw .. the idle screw ... u pusing bila timing tinggi , u kasi rendah or too rendah u kasi tinggi ....
TSalexei
post May 9 2014, 11:48 AM

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QUOTE(piju @ May 8 2014, 03:06 PM)
yes. i know that. this is why i'm asking here. hope you guys can help me to find perfect setting for mikuni bs25 carburetor.
*
Stupid BS carbs...

Tips for you:
Close the pilot screw, and open 2.5 turns.
The bike will run very poorly, or not at all, without the airbox installed. The airbox also needs to be properly sealed, so consider replacing any deteriorated foam seals as needed.
If pod air filters are installed the carbs will have to be rejetted to match the low restriction airflow.
Fine tune the carbs (engine fully warmed up and idling) by adjust the pilot screws in roughly equal amounts until the highest idle speed is achieved. If the engine speed doesn’t respond to this tweak, leave them at 2.5 turns.
If the engine stumbles just off idle, try opening the pilot screws another ½ turn and try again.
The maximum number of open turns is four, otherwise you should get larger pilot jets.
If the engine surges or feels like it’s running outof gas when cruising at steady speed, such as on the freeway, opening the pilot screw more and/orshimming the needles may help.
TSalexei
post May 9 2014, 11:49 AM

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QUOTE(piju @ May 8 2014, 03:06 PM)
yes. i know that. this is why i'm asking here. hope you guys can help me to find perfect setting for mikuni bs25 carburetor.
*
Stupid BS carbs...

Tips for you:
Close the pilot screw, and open 2.5 turns.
The bike will run very poorly, or not at all, without the airbox installed. The airbox also needs to be properly sealed, so consider replacing any deteriorated foam seals as needed.
If pod air filters are installed the carbs will have to be rejetted to match the low restriction airflow.
Fine tune the carbs (engine fully warmed up and idling) by adjust the pilot screws in roughly equal amounts until the highest idle speed is achieved. If the engine speed doesn’t respond to this tweak, leave them at 2.5 turns.
If the engine stumbles just off idle, try opening the pilot screws another ½ turn and try again.
The maximum number of open turns is four, otherwise you should get larger pilot jets.
If the engine surges or feels like it’s running outof gas when cruising at steady speed, such as on the freeway, opening the pilot screw more and/orshimming the needles may help.
piju
post May 9 2014, 12:16 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 9 2014, 11:49 AM)
Stupid BS carbs...

Tips for you:
Close the pilot screw, and open 2.5 turns.
The bike will run very poorly, or not at all, without the airbox installed. The airbox also needs to be properly sealed, so consider replacing any deteriorated foam seals as needed.
If pod air filters are installed the carbs will have to be rejetted to match the low restriction airflow.
Fine tune the carbs (engine fully warmed up and idling) by adjust the pilot screws in roughly equal amounts until the highest idle speed is achieved. If the engine speed doesn’t respond to this tweak, leave them at 2.5 turns.
If the engine stumbles just off idle, try opening the pilot screws another ½ turn and try again.
The maximum number of open turns is four, otherwise you should get larger pilot jets.
If the engine surges or feels like it’s running outof gas when cruising at steady speed, such as on the freeway, opening the pilot screw more and/orshimming the needles may help.
*
thanks for the tips!
i just know that screw which located near the intake manifold is FUEL screw. this mikuni bs25 is not for performance but i has good fuel consumption.
i just changed the stock paper air filter to a high flow K&N clone air filter. then i set the carburetor fuel mixture screw (this screw located near the intake manifold) to it's fully close position. i started the bike and set the carburetor idle to 2000-3000 RPM and open the fuel mixture by turning it counter clockwise until i hear the bike revving to it's maximum RPM. it is about 3.5 turns counter clockwise from the fully close position. after that, i added 1.5 more turns from the 3.5 turns position. means 5 turns out. im not sure if my setting now is lean or too lean or rich or too rich.
lms2005
post May 9 2014, 12:22 PM

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QUOTE(piju @ May 9 2014, 12:16 PM)
thanks for the tips!
i just know that screw which located near the intake manifold is FUEL screw. this mikuni bs25 is not for performance but i has good fuel consumption.
i just changed the stock paper air filter to a high flow K&N clone air filter. then i set the carburetor fuel mixture screw (this screw located near the intake manifold) to it's fully close position. i started the bike and set the carburetor idle to 2000-3000 RPM and open the fuel mixture by turning it counter clockwise until i hear the bike revving to it's maximum RPM. it is about 3.5 turns counter clockwise from the fully close position. after that, i added 1.5 more turns from the 3.5 turns position. means 5 turns out. im not sure if my setting now is lean or too lean or rich or too rich.
*
I also replaced with k&n usa, need setting again?


piju
post May 9 2014, 12:30 PM

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QUOTE(lms2005 @ May 9 2014, 12:22 PM)
I also replaced with k&n usa, need setting again?
*
i think yes.
i also changed the stock exhaust to a 28mm manifold exhaust.
this is why i kacau the stock carburetor setting.
if we set the carburetor too lean, the engine will be easy to start on cold temperature, but the combustion chamber can be hotter so not suitable for long distance and it also not good for spark plug.
if we set the carburetor too rich, it will be hard to start on cold temperature because fuel is more than the air but good for long distance and also not good for spark plug.
i'm looking for balance between this 2 conditions.


waiting for bro alexei to answer the question.

This post has been edited by piju: May 9 2014, 12:35 PM
thianz
post May 9 2014, 04:43 PM

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xpaya knn filter la .. go cari those racing air filter around 20-30 dah cukup .... i no air filter pun ok jer .....
piju
post May 10 2014, 12:03 AM

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QUOTE(thianz @ May 9 2014, 04:43 PM)
xpaya knn filter la .. go cari those racing air filter around 20-30 dah cukup .... i no air filter pun ok jer .....
*
you lc version berapa ?
carburetor apa ?
thianz
post May 10 2014, 02:21 AM

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QUOTE(piju @ May 10 2014, 12:03 AM)
you lc version berapa ?
carburetor apa ?
*
v1 .. carb tzm , carb original ..... brows.gif
lms2005
post May 10 2014, 10:17 AM

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juz wan to confirm, d oil filter replace every time oil change or twice a time?
thianz
post May 10 2014, 10:41 PM

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QUOTE(lms2005 @ May 10 2014, 10:17 AM)
juz wan to confirm, d oil filter replace every time oil change or twice a time?
*
kalau kaya .. boleh tukar every time .... kalau x kaya .... sila pakai ori punya ... change it on 3rd EO service ...

or u can look for those oil filter can reuse .... around rm20-25 .... buka dan cuci every service ....
piju
post May 11 2014, 11:42 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ May 9 2014, 04:43 PM)
xpaya knn filter la .. go cari those racing air filter around 20-30 dah cukup .... i no air filter pun ok jer .....
*
air filter racing tu macamana ?

TSalexei
post May 12 2014, 11:09 AM

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QUOTE(piju @ May 9 2014, 12:16 PM)
thanks for the tips!
i just know that screw which located near the intake manifold is FUEL screw. this mikuni bs25 is not for performance but i has good fuel consumption.
i just changed the stock paper air filter to a high flow K&N clone air filter. then i set the carburetor fuel mixture screw (this screw located near the intake manifold) to it's fully close position. i started the bike and set the carburetor idle to 2000-3000 RPM and open the fuel mixture by turning it counter clockwise until i hear the bike revving to it's maximum RPM. it is about 3.5 turns counter clockwise from the fully close position. after that, i added 1.5 more turns from the 3.5 turns position. means 5 turns out. im not sure if my setting now is lean or too lean or rich or too rich.
*
How good is your FC? Can you share?
Fuel screw means, the more you open, the more petrol.
For you, to open another 1.5 turn is too rich already. Normally, after you get the max RPM, is richen a little bit, that's even less than 1/8 turn.
For carb setting, even 1/8 a turn is considered sensitive. In my case, after setting done, I mark the pilot screw to check next time if setting go off.

QUOTE(lms2005 @ May 9 2014, 12:22 PM)
I also replaced with k&n usa, need setting again?
*
Yes, for BS carb, as it is sensitive to air filter change.

QUOTE(piju @ May 9 2014, 12:30 PM)
i also changed the stock exhaust to a 28mm manifold exhaust.
this is why i kacau the stock carburetor setting.
if we set the carburetor too lean, the engine will be easy to start on cold temperature, but the combustion chamber can be hotter so not suitable for long distance and it also not good for spark plug.
if we set the carburetor too rich, it will be hard to start on cold temperature because fuel is more than the air but good for long distance and also not good for spark plug.
i'm looking for balance between this 2 conditions.
waiting for bro alexei to answer the question.
*
For cold start, you need to richen the AFmix, that's why you have a choke. So, the bold parts in your quote is incorrect.

Rich and lean does affect the plug life, but that's not the right way of putting it, because when the plug already dead, most likely the engine, too. Practically speaking, it is the other way around: The plug has to be 'hot enough' to clean itself, and reading the plug can tell you if you are running rich or lean.

You change to 28mm manifold, and does it taper open? Or, is it 28mm all the way to silencer?
If it tapers open, better torque for low-mid RPM only, but if 28mm all the way, no torque at low RPM, peaky engine.
QUOTE(lms2005 @ May 10 2014, 10:17 AM)
juz wan to confirm, d oil filter replace every time oil change or twice a time?
*
Better change everytime.
lms2005
post May 12 2014, 01:16 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ May 10 2014, 10:41 PM)
kalau kaya .. boleh tukar every time .... kalau x kaya .... sila pakai ori punya ...  change it on 3rd EO service ...

or u can look for those oil filter can reuse .... around rm20-25  .... buka dan cuci every service  ....
*
Juz curious.. use wat to wash? Petrol?
piju
post May 12 2014, 03:31 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 12 2014, 11:09 AM)
How good is your FC? Can you share?
Fuel screw means, the more you open, the more petrol.
For you, to open another 1.5 turn is too rich already. Normally, after you get the max RPM, is richen a little bit, that's even less than 1/8 turn.
For carb setting, even 1/8 a turn is considered sensitive. In my case, after setting done, I mark the pilot screw to check next time if setting go off.
Yes, for BS carb, as it is sensitive to air filter change.
For cold start, you need to richen the AFmix, that's why you have a choke. So, the bold parts in your quote is incorrect.

Rich and lean does affect the plug life, but that's not the right way of putting it, because when the plug already dead, most likely the engine, too. Practically speaking, it is the other way around: The plug has to be 'hot enough' to clean itself, and reading the plug can tell you if you are running rich or lean.

You change to 28mm manifold, and does it taper open? Or, is it 28mm all the way to silencer?
If it tapers open, better torque for low-mid RPM only, but if 28mm all the way, no torque at low RPM, peaky engine.

Better change everytime.
*
thanks bro for the detail explanations.

now i understand that choke means to richen the fuel mixture by choking the air.
so, my max RPM i can hear is starting from 3.5 turns and above until 6 turns. after that it will get low again since fuel is more than the air. is it the best for my FUEL SCREW setting is at 3.5 turns only ? not 5 turns ?
i need to know which is the optimal setting for my fuel screw with KNN air filter installed first, after that i will check my spark plug condition later.
BTW bro alexei, i am a little bit confuse here since some people said i need to set the idling engine at 1100-1550rpm before setting the fuel screw, and some said i need to put engine idling rpm to 2500-3500 rpm first before setting the fuel screw. which one is the best method for mikuni bs25 carburetor ?

user posted image
user posted image

these picture is my guide later.

bro alexei, about the exhaust, it was 28mm manifold with standard muffler same design as stock. better sound than stock exhaust. but not too loud

This post has been edited by piju: May 12 2014, 03:47 PM
TSalexei
post May 12 2014, 04:24 PM

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QUOTE(piju @ May 12 2014, 03:31 PM)
thanks bro for the detail explanations.

now i understand that choke means to richen the fuel mixture by choking the air.
so, my max RPM i can hear is starting from 3.5 turns and above until 6 turns. after that it will get low again since fuel is more than the air. is it the best for my FUEL SCREW setting is at 3.5 turns only ? not 5 turns ?
i need to know which is the optimal setting for my fuel screw with KNN air filter installed first, after that i will check my spark plug condition later.
BTW bro alexei, i am a little bit confuse here since some people said i need to set the idling engine at 1100-1550rpm before setting the fuel screw, and some said i need to put engine idling rpm to 2500-3500 rpm first before setting the fuel screw. which one is the best method for mikuni bs25 carburetor ?

bro alexei, about the exhaust, it was 28mm manifold with standard muffler same design as stock. better sound than stock exhaust. but not too loud
*
The fuel setting goes like this, lean -> ideal -> rich.
Only when over-rich it will bog down the engine, so, I would say start with 3.5 turn, and add another 1~2 minutes of a turn. This will only affect idle and 1/4th of the BS carb, which is something you can't tell. You will have to feel the engine response from off idle (slightly opening throttle) all the way to cruising speed.

Idling just need to set higher than normal during carb tune. If 2.5~3.5k RPM, that might reach the jet needle setting range already.
Once you get the pilot fuel screw correct, and notice cruising steady at quarter to half throttle is not good, then you adjust the jet needle.
After that, test half throttle to full throttle, look for flat spot, and adjust mainjet.

With the 28mm manifold, you might need to tune mainjet later. But, don't worry too much, figure out the pilot fuel screw first.

My RGV plug reads between 'good' to 'best' now. For a 2 stroke to read a clean plug like that, took me a long time.
Perhaps later I open it and have a look again, it's been a while.
My journey took me through setting the pilot air screw, dropping the jet needle, reducing mainjet twice, and set the pilot air screw again until satisfied.

Now, FC is city @ 170~180km, highway @ 280km per 4.9 liter petrol.
piju
post May 12 2014, 04:55 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 12 2014, 04:24 PM)
The fuel setting goes like this, lean -> ideal -> rich.
Only when over-rich it will bog down the engine, so, I would say start with 3.5 turn, and add another 1~2 minutes of a turn. This will only affect idle and 1/4th of the BS carb, which is something you can't tell. You will have to feel the engine response from off idle (slightly opening throttle) all the way to cruising speed.

Idling just need to set higher than normal during carb tune. If 2.5~3.5k RPM, that might reach the jet needle setting range already.
Once you get the pilot fuel screw correct, and notice cruising steady at quarter to half throttle is not good, then you adjust the jet needle.
After that, test half throttle to full throttle, look for flat spot, and adjust mainjet.

With the 28mm manifold, you might need to tune mainjet later. But, don't worry too much, figure out the pilot fuel screw first.

My RGV plug reads between 'good' to 'best' now. For a 2 stroke to read a clean plug like that, took me a long time.
Perhaps later I open it and have a look again, it's been a while.
My journey took me through setting the pilot air screw, dropping the jet needle, reducing mainjet twice, and set the pilot air screw again until satisfied.

Now, FC is city @ 170~180km, highway @ 280km per 4.9 liter petrol.
*
what do you mean with "add another 1~2 minutes of a turn" ?

thanks for explanations again bro. actually my primary intention was to find the good optimal setting for fuel screw only. i am not planning to reposition jet needle now. maybe later.

and i understood what you tried to say, it is like after tuning the fuel screw, i need to drive my bike and feel the acceleration by trying all degrees of throttle positions.
right bro alexei?


TSalexei
post May 12 2014, 05:13 PM

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piju1~2 minutes of a turn, expressed like a clock face, a small amount of turn. Example, if 5 minutes would be like 1/12 of a turn.

Yes, experience the acceleration by slowly twisting the throttle. If there is a bog or hesitant, tune again... until satisfied.

For plug reading, refer to this: http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html
NewGUY
post May 14 2014, 12:27 AM

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Bro Alexei,

Reporting FC on 177 cc or 62mm shark block, 2nd used by thianz
http://www.fuelly.com/driver/etks2011/lc135-36

Thianz,

Finally done...how to pay u for the block and return another block...

Findings on Tires

I found that the Duro Taiwan which has biji- biji at side

1) Nearing safety tire limit, feel like the tire puncture or will lari a bit a rear, size 80/90...

2) for front 70/90, I reach GPS speed at above 132km/h the tire start shake and feel float....I wonder is the tire limit, but when put at rear also same issue, so this Brand Tire not suitable for ppl going for high speed..
NewGUY
post May 14 2014, 12:31 AM

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Corsa 80/90 Tires is abit more expensive than duro but it seems tat the rubber is thicker...

I need to re calibrate my Koso Meter to 99% last time setting for duro 80/90 is not mistaken is 101%...

Almost slip also with Duro Taiwan front 70/90....

Now setup front Corsa 80/90 and rear Duro Taiwan 70/90...just 1 use finish the tire and measure FC difference on rear 70/90...no difference, put back 80/90...This shud be enuf grip for 62mm...
TSalexei
post May 14 2014, 10:14 AM

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NewGUYThat fuelly profile is you? I added as fuelly friend now. My RGV FC seems better, using 70/90 and 80/90 tyres.

Duro with biji on side? Is it like sisik? Maybe too new to me, haven't been looking at tyres lately. Can you share pics? There are 2 commonly good one, the HF-918 that looks like Battlax BT039, and Duro RS that looks like Michelin Pilot Power.
piju
post May 14 2014, 03:00 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 12 2014, 05:13 PM)
piju1~2 minutes of a turn, expressed like a clock face, a small amount of turn. Example, if 5 minutes would be like 1/12 of a turn.

Yes, experience the acceleration by slowly twisting the throttle. If there is a bog or hesitant, tune again... until satisfied.

For plug reading, refer to this: http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html
*
thanks bro,
now i understand that i need to tune my carb again.

i will close the fuel screw, open it to 3.5 turns and play around with 1~2 minutes turns.
maybe i need to open or close more or stay at 3.5 turns right bro alexei?
however, i need to set and play with the throttle first. different bikes and riders may comes with different result i think.

btw, bro. which is the best way to increase RPM ? is it by turning the idle screw or just twisting throttle using hand ?

This post has been edited by piju: May 14 2014, 03:02 PM
TSalexei
post May 14 2014, 06:36 PM

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QUOTE(piju @ May 14 2014, 03:00 PM)
thanks bro,
now i understand that i need to tune my carb again.

i will close the fuel screw, open it to 3.5 turns and play around with 1~2 minutes turns.
maybe i need to open or close more or stay at 3.5 turns right bro alexei?
however, i need to set and play with the throttle first. different bikes and riders may comes with different result i think.

btw, bro. which is the best way to increase RPM ? is it by turning the idle screw or just twisting throttle using hand ?
*
Start again from 1 turn onwards, until the max RPM. Then, open another 2~3 minutes, just so slightly.
Idle RPM is adjusted with idle screw.
piju
post May 14 2014, 07:26 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 12 2014, 11:09 AM)
How good is your FC? Can you share?
Fuel screw means, the more you open, the more petrol.
For you, to open another 1.5 turn is too rich already. Normally, after you get the max RPM, is richen a little bit, that's even less than 1/8 turn.
btw bro alexei, quoting your previous reply. you said "normally after you get the max RPM, is richen a little bit",
so, im here asking why do we need to open 2~3 minutes more ?


TSalexei
post May 14 2014, 10:21 PM

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piju I guess is for protection, when during cooler days, from running to lean.
lms2005
post May 15 2014, 12:49 AM

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after oil replacement at 500km, it fell like hard to start need to tune again... is it normal?
TSalexei
post May 15 2014, 09:03 AM

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QUOTE(lms2005 @ May 15 2014, 12:49 AM)
after oil replacement at 500km, it fell like hard to start need to tune again... is it normal?
*
yes.
piju
post May 15 2014, 10:32 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 14 2014, 10:21 PM)
piju I guess is for protection, when during cooler days, from running to lean.
*
i see, thanks for the info.
just now i set my fuel screw to 3.5 turns and added 2~3 minutes more. idle RPM quite good. throttle respons also good. but when i ride the bike and feel like some bog and hesitant happened when the bike is high RPM on gear 2, after i shift it to gear 3 then it's ok. is this happen because im using high flow air filter?

(i assume than when higher rpm, the combustion chamber will produce more pressure to suck the air and since im using high flow air filter, the air will enter more than fuel, this is why bog and hesitant happened)
TSalexei
post May 15 2014, 04:38 PM

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QUOTE(piju @ May 15 2014, 10:32 AM)
i see, thanks for the info.
just now i set my fuel screw to 3.5 turns and added 2~3 minutes more. idle RPM quite good. throttle respons also good. but when i ride the bike and feel like some bog and hesitant happened when the bike is high RPM on gear 2, after i shift it to gear 3 then it's ok. is this happen because im using high flow air filter?

(i assume than when higher rpm, the combustion chamber will produce more pressure to suck the air and since im using high flow air filter, the air will enter more than fuel, this is why bog and hesitant happened)
*
If you think is high RPM, then perhaps need to kacau needle. Before you do that, try with pilot screw open and close quarter turn extra from default 3.5 turns.
At different throttle opening, the AF ratio changes. So, after air filter change, you need to readjust the whole carb circuits... not just pilot screw.
NewGUY
post May 15 2014, 05:36 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 14 2014, 10:14 AM)
NewGUYThat fuelly profile is you? I added as fuelly friend now. My RGV FC seems better, using 70/90 and 80/90 tyres.

Duro with biji on side? Is it like sisik? Maybe too new to me, haven't been looking at tyres lately. Can you share pics? There are 2 commonly good one, the HF-918 that looks like Battlax BT039, and Duro RS that looks like Michelin Pilot Power.
*
Sisik or biji biji like maxxis, shop seller say is duro taiwan...
TSalexei
post May 15 2014, 05:43 PM

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QUOTE(NewGUY @ May 15 2014, 05:36 PM)
Sisik or biji biji like maxxis, shop seller say is duro taiwan...
*
Erm, what does the tyre sidewall printed?
Got brand, model number, 'Made in Taiwan' or 'Duro RS' printed or not? tongue.gif
piju
post May 15 2014, 08:12 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 15 2014, 04:38 PM)
If you think is high RPM, then perhaps need to kacau needle. Before you do that, try with pilot screw open and close quarter turn extra from default 3.5 turns.
At different throttle opening, the AF ratio changes. So, after air filter change, you need to readjust the whole carb circuits... not just pilot screw.
*
thanks for the advise, i have already readjust the fuel screw. i added more than 3.5 turns. i think it is 3 and 3/4 turns or more. but not more than 4 turns. throttle response on low RPM seems good. but i need to ride the bike at higher RPM to know the results on higher RPM response.

TSalexei
post May 15 2014, 10:14 PM

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pijuthanks for the patience. thumbup.gif
NewGUY
post May 15 2014, 10:57 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 15 2014, 05:43 PM)
Erm, what does the tyre sidewall printed?
Got brand, model number, 'Made in Taiwan' or 'Duro RS' printed or not? tongue.gif
*
Brand Duro

Model maybe is DM1198

website: www.duro.com.tw

Cant find the RS

Anyway, ban this tire for me....

This post has been edited by NewGUY: May 16 2014, 10:02 AM
piju
post May 15 2014, 11:30 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 15 2014, 10:14 PM)
pijuthanks for the patience. thumbup.gif
*
yeah. thanks to you too my brother.
now i readjust the fuel screw again. i set the idle screw until i hear high revving and after the adjustments on fuel screw, i reset the idle screw now back to normal. maybe on 1200-1500 RPM i think, i dont have a takometer to measure the RPM. throttle response quite good on lower and higher RPM. my bike is energetic same as the fuel screw on 5 turns out position. i dont have problems starting my bike either it's in cold or hot temperature. morning starts never had problems. i'm not sure either my setting now is rich or lean. let me bring along a screwdriver with me when i ride the bike tomorrow. if i feel any bog or hesitant either on lower or higher RPM, i will adjust it by opening more or closing back the fuel screw. i will keep you posted about the results later.


TSalexei
post May 16 2014, 06:37 AM

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thianzthanks for sharing bro. I'll go town and look for this tyre and take pics...
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post May 16 2014, 10:16 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 16 2014, 06:37 AM)
thianzthanks for sharing bro. I'll go town and look for this tyre and take pics...
*
i still using 70/90 on rear, the sisik like maxxis but the center line i straight, maxxis is like snake not straight....

i notice also Michelin Tires are very expensive also, I heard the shop quoted 80/90 for 115, 90/80 for 135...

RM 135 can get R13/70H tire for car for cheap brand...

For my record change 6 pcs of tires already...

1) Duro 100/80
2) Comet 90/90
3) Duro Thailand 80/90
4) Used Battlelax 90/80
5) Duro Taiwan 70/90
6) Duro Taiwan 80/90

Tires 1 to 3, get to use to above 10 000 km which should be over safety limit guide but no feel of shaking or feel like tire puncture

80/90 was change almost 9 000 km bcos of the feeling

now 70/90 put at front at 137 km /h GPS like shake liao, no confident to go more...

now 70/90 put at back at 129 to 134 km/h GPS start vibrate or shake....

Tire still got about 50% to safety limit guide..... doh.gif doh.gif

Hope finish it soon.... brows.gif brows.gif

alexei, your km/l seems to be higher but petrol for full tank+2T full tank would cost more....so km/sen will be higher, mind to share that...
TSalexei
post May 16 2014, 06:21 PM

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Since naik harga, more reasons not to use Michelin liao.
My RGV fuelly:
user posted image
2T around 1L per 1000km, RM20 each botol.
piju
post May 17 2014, 06:28 PM

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alexei

i think i know what is the biggest problem tuning mikuni bs25 carburetor. it is because of the low restriction air filter. i think i solved the problem by reinstall the stock paper air filter and retune the fuel screw until i hear maximum RPM.

if i still want to use the low restriction air filter, i think i need to rejetting the carburetor to compensate the air. as i know, the perfect combustion will need 14.7 air and 1 fuel. means 14.7:1. if we allow more air to enter the combustion chamber, then we need to allow more fuel by rejetting the carburetor. this is critical on higher RPM but not critical on idle and low RPM.

if we allow more air and more fuel, means we are dropping the fuel efficiency. we still dont know either the combustion chamber can handle the burning or not. if it can handle, then we will get more power. if it dont, means no perfect combustion then we will have fuel efficiency drop and the side effect is our piston maybe dirtier than before.

am i right bro alexei ?

This post has been edited by piju: May 17 2014, 06:31 PM
TSalexei
post May 17 2014, 06:48 PM

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QUOTE(piju @ May 17 2014, 06:28 PM)
alexei

i think i know what is the biggest problem tuning mikuni bs25 carburetor. it is because of the low restriction air filter. i think i solved the problem by reinstall the stock paper air filter and retune the fuel screw until i hear maximum RPM.

if i still want to use the low restriction air filter, i think i need to rejetting the carburetor to compensate the air. as i know, the perfect combustion will need 14.7 air and 1 fuel. means 14.7:1. if we allow more air to enter the combustion chamber, then we need to allow more fuel by rejetting the carburetor. this is critical on higher RPM but not critical on idle and low RPM.

if we allow more air and more fuel, means we are dropping the fuel efficiency. we still dont know either the combustion chamber can handle the burning or not. if it can handle, then we will get more power. if it dont, means no perfect combustion then we will have fuel efficiency drop and the side effect is our piston maybe dirtier than before.

am i right bro alexei ?
*
I think someone mentioned BS25 carb needs some restriction at the intake, with the high flow air filter, quite a lot needs to be done.
Basically, without the intake restriction, the carb would lose the required vacuum to open. That means, it will never reach max throttle opening.

To rejet, is critical for all rev range, not just high RPM. smile.gif

In real case, for the same engine, improved air flow will produce more power and smoothen torque curve.
It is about making it easier to drive, and when that happens, sometimes it actually improves FC.

About the carbon deposit, I think it is inevitable. smile.gif
piju
post May 17 2014, 07:22 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 17 2014, 06:48 PM)
I think someone mentioned BS25 carb needs some restriction at the intake, with the high flow air filter, quite a lot needs to be done.
Basically, without the intake restriction, the carb would lose the required vacuum to open. That means, it will never reach max throttle opening.

To rejet, is critical for all rev range, not just high RPM. smile.gif

In real case, for the same engine, improved air flow will produce more power and smoothen torque curve.
It is about making it easier to drive, and when that happens, sometimes it actually improves FC.

About the carbon deposit, I think it is inevitable. smile.gif
*
ok bro alexei maybe i need to do a lot with mikuni bs25 if i want to use it with high flow air filter. or else, change the mikuni bs25 with the vm22 carburetor. now i know why people change their yamaha lc v2 carb to v1 carb. it should be carb first, then the air filter change.

for EFI systems, or normal type carburetors, i believe that using high flow air filter will improve their torque and HP. maybe not for vacuum operated carburetors like mikuni bs25.

the yamaha v1 carburetor which is mikuni vm22 operates differently from mikuni bs25. for the vm22, throttle controls the needle jet. so if we twist the throttle from close to maximum opening, you will force the engine revving from low to high RPM.

for mikuni bs25, throttle controls the butterfly valve. not needle jet. if we twist the throttle from close to maximum, it only allows more vacuum pressure to the rubber diaphram for liftting the needle jet. we cant force the engine revving to the max, it will do by itself, slowly.

if we install high flow air filters on mikuni bs25, i think it will reduce the vacuum pressure and slowing down movements of the rubber diaphragm and it also will never reach the maximum needle jet opening like you already said.

now i see why yamaha created bottleneck for air to enter the yamaha lc v2 air filter box. to create high pressure for lifting the rubber diaphragm.

what say you alexei ?

This post has been edited by piju: May 17 2014, 07:45 PM
TSalexei
post May 17 2014, 08:09 PM

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pijuIf use high flow filter on BS25 carb, it actually 'restricts' the throttle. So, it doesn't improve performance. Unless if the engine is modified to demand more air through the carb, then perhaps it can make a difference.
Honestly, I haven't tuned a BS25 carb before, so I can't say a lot about it.

This post has been edited by alexei: May 18 2014, 05:07 PM
NewGUY
post May 18 2014, 02:32 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 16 2014, 06:21 PM)
Since naik harga, more reasons not to use Michelin liao.
My RGV fuelly:
user posted image
2T around 1L per 1000km, RM20 each botol.
*
So means every tank of fuel is 4.6 liters + about 250ml right?

u getting 250km per tank?

how much per km?

mine around 0.065 sen per km

i just 1 to know the difference....

Bcos a lot of ppl say untune 4T compare to untune 2T, have 50% saving in petrol and 2T....
TSalexei
post May 18 2014, 05:07 PM

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QUOTE(NewGUY @ May 18 2014, 02:32 AM)
So means every tank of fuel is 4.6 liters + about 250ml right?

u getting 250km per tank?

how much per km?

mine around 0.065 sen per km

i just 1 to know the difference....

Bcos a lot of ppl say untune 4T compare to untune 2T, have 50% saving in petrol and 2T....
*
My fuelly includes highway, so a bit too good for city riding.

Petrol: RM9.6 for 170~180km, 5.5 sen per km.
2T: RM20/1000km, 2 sen per km.

Mine petrol + 2T total is 7.5 sen per km.
Yours at 3.0L/100km, is about 6.3 sen per km.

This post has been edited by alexei: May 18 2014, 05:14 PM
piju
post May 18 2014, 10:29 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 17 2014, 08:09 PM)
pijuIf use high flow filter on BS25 carb, it actually 'restricts' the throttle. So, it doesn't improve performance. Unless if the engine is modified to demand more air through the carb, then perhaps it can make a difference.
Honestly, I haven't tuned a BS25 carb before, so I can't say a lot about it.
*
bro alexei,

i have already retune my BS25 and reinstalled the stock paper air filter.

i warned the bike, and then i closed the fuel screw to it's close position. i opened the fuel screw for 1 turn and started the bike.
then i opened fuel screw 1/4 turn more and listen to the RPM. i end up with 2 and half turns. on 2 and half turns, the bike started to rev on higher RPM. when i open more, the RPM stays high. when i open more and more, the RPM went down. so i closed the fuel screw again, and yet end up on 2 and half turns. i assumed that on 2 and half turns position. the bike reach it's first maximum RPM level. i added more turns, maybe about 3~4 minutes more. total turns maybe 2 and 3/4 turns.

is this the correct way to tune ? i'm not sure is my setting now rich or lean. could you clarify me bro alexei ?

thanks
NewGUY
post May 19 2014, 08:14 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 18 2014, 05:07 PM)
My fuelly includes highway, so a bit too good for city riding.

Petrol: RM9.6 for 170~180km, 5.5 sen per km.
2T: RM20/1000km, 2 sen per km.

Mine petrol + 2T total is 7.5 sen per km.
Yours at 3.0L/100km, is about 6.3 sen per km.
*
got it blinking quite sometime can get max pump till 3.928 liters

using 150cc block modded only 2.5L/100km... cry.gif cry.gif
TSalexei
post May 19 2014, 09:28 AM

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pijuThat looks correct.
NewGUYGood what?
piju
post May 19 2014, 12:56 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 19 2014, 09:28 AM)
pijuThat looks correct.
NewGUYGood what?
*
sorry bro alexei, i didnt mentioned that after i warned to bike, i set the idle screw to higher RPM than before. maybe around 2000 - 3000 RPM.
am i on the right way tuning the carb bro? am i getting the best and optimal setting result ?


TSalexei
post May 19 2014, 01:24 PM

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pijuHere are the steps, in short:
- warm up
- set idle screw to high, RPM ~1.5k to 2k RPM.
- set pilot screw to reach max RPM, open few more minutes.
- set idle screw to normal, RPM ~1k, or engine is running smoothly.

Check:
- off-throttle performance: from idle, pulas the throttle fast and see if engine can follow or not
- steady acceleration at fixed throttle opening
- acceleration with continuous throttle opening

If there is any engine bog or flat response, continue to replicate the condition, and check the plug to tell if rich or lean. Perform tuning, and check again. Until puas.

In the end, your bike will have very low FC, good power across RPM and throttle opening. No semput-semput or misfire here and there, perfect.

Then, if you upgrade parts, may need to go through the whole process again. If lucky, some minor tuning is enough.
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post May 19 2014, 01:35 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 19 2014, 01:24 PM)
pijuHere are the steps, in short:
- warm up
- set idle screw to high, RPM ~1.5k to 2k RPM.
- set pilot screw to reach max RPM, open few more minutes.
- set idle screw to normal, RPM ~1k, or engine is running smoothly.

Check:
- off-throttle performance: from idle, pulas the throttle fast and see if engine can follow or not
- steady acceleration at fixed throttle opening
- acceleration with continuous throttle opening

If there is any engine bog or flat response, continue to replicate the condition, and check the plug to tell if rich or lean. Perform tuning, and check again. Until puas.

In the end, your bike will have very low FC, good power across RPM and throttle opening. No semput-semput or misfire here and there, perfect.

Then, if you upgrade parts, may need to go through the whole process again. If lucky, some minor tuning is enough.
*
thanks bro. i followed your steps.

1. off throttle performance good.
2. steady acceleration good.
3. acceleration with continuous throttle opening also good.

heard no misfiring or semput.

i think i'm good to go now.

bytheway bro alexei, i asked 2 friends and they told me that stock setting for mikuni bs25 on yamaha lc v2 version is at 1 and half turns. on 1 and half turns, i wont get maximum RPM. is this true that most bike's carburetor factory setting are on lean mixture ? not tuned to it's maximum performance ?


This post has been edited by piju: May 19 2014, 01:39 PM
TSalexei
post May 19 2014, 02:39 PM

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pijuI know it's 1 5/8 turn for the VM carb, not sure for BS carb. I'll need to look at its service manual to tell if that is true or not, which I don't have. Do you have its service manual, since you own one? IMO, factory setting is usually richer, so that the bikes produced are more likely to run smoothly.

Keep this page for your reference: http://www.zrxoa.org/webpages/techinfo/carb/carbtuning.html
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post May 19 2014, 04:35 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 19 2014, 09:28 AM)
pijuThat looks correct.
NewGUYGood what?
*
Just bcos LC tank too small need pump often d....
If i travel a lot on bike, I can pump almost everyday....

Just for your info, latest or 2014 CBR500 or 471 cc can do 27km/l on wmtc for, IINM is 55HP
Higher top speed until 181km/h
weight 192kg around there
tempting bike, quite cheap compare previous sbk....

mine now only get 31.5km on average....
top for mine I expect not more than 145km/h
HP not more than 25HP,
LC about 130kg...
TSalexei
post May 19 2014, 06:20 PM

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Kapcai don't mod, get big commuter bike like that is best.
NewGUY
post May 19 2014, 09:02 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 19 2014, 06:20 PM)
Kapcai don't mod, get big commuter bike like that is best.
*
But last time where got such option all sbk high FC and high maintenance....

Last time can afford also, all sbk like 100% overprice....

Kawa ER6n, Z800, R6 all below 20km per liter....

The CBR 500 2014 fc is even better than Kawa Z250 or Ninja 250....

Looks 250 cc is underpower for the chasis...
TSalexei
post May 19 2014, 09:26 PM

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QUOTE(NewGUY @ May 19 2014, 09:02 PM)
But last time where got such option all sbk high FC and high maintenance....

Last time can afford also, all sbk like 100% overprice....

Kawa ER6n, Z800, R6 all below 20km per liter....

The CBR 500 2014 fc is even better than Kawa Z250 or Ninja 250....

Looks 250 cc is underpower for the chasis...
*
Well, you have to look hard enough, and be more tolerating. Of course, if you can only consider new bikes, there isn't an option.
FC of CBR500R is good, 250R is average for its CC, but they are similar around 50~60mpg.

If I have the money to buy a brand new kapcai, I would rather get any other used bike.
Imagine if at the time, you bought a 2nd hand ZZR250 at 7k. Even today, you can sell the bike at the same price.
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post May 19 2014, 09:36 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 19 2014, 09:26 PM)
Well, you have to look hard enough, and be more tolerating. Of course, if you can only consider new bikes, there isn't an option.
FC of CBR500R is good, 250R is average for its CC, but they are similar around 50~60mpg.

If I have the money to buy a brand new kapcai, I would rather get any other used bike.
Imagine if at the time, you bought a 2nd hand ZZR250 at 7k. Even today, you can sell the bike at the same price.
*
I experience tat also bought a yamaha cup at 800, use for 3 yrs, sell at 600, not much lose money but the repair, the next owner untung lo....

For me if not gonna mod and wanna use for long distance maybe pg to kl to sg, then better get new la...

Besides big bike to expensive to mod, exhaust already like few k....
lms2005
post May 19 2014, 10:44 PM

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QUOTE(NewGUY @ May 19 2014, 09:36 PM)
I experience tat also bought a yamaha cup at 800, use for 3 yrs, sell at 600, not much lose money but the repair, the next owner untung lo....

For me if not gonna mod and wanna use for long distance maybe pg to kl to sg, then better get new la...

Besides big bike to expensive to mod, exhaust already like few k....
*
yamaha cup also can pg to kl to sg thumbup.gif
thianz
post May 19 2014, 11:21 PM

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QUOTE(lms2005 @ May 19 2014, 10:44 PM)
yamaha cup  also can pg to kl to sg  thumbup.gif
*
penang pun boleh sampai ..... apa lagi sg ......
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post May 20 2014, 08:47 AM

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QUOTE(thianz @ May 19 2014, 11:21 PM)
penang pun boleh sampai ..... apa lagi sg ......
*
sampai blh sampai, berapa lama baru sampai.... sweat.gif sweat.gif

Boss, u r block how to return u? Finally settle....
TSalexei
post May 20 2014, 11:10 AM

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Penang go Sg, ok?
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post May 20 2014, 06:54 PM

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QUOTE(NewGUY @ May 20 2014, 08:47 AM)
sampai blh sampai, berapa lama baru sampai.... sweat.gif  sweat.gif

Boss, u r block how to return u? Finally settle....
*
depends how urs ball of steel ...... straight ... full tank .. warm up engine ... naik highway ride like a boss ... saw petrol station refill , go pee ..... have a drink ... continue .....


wat happened to my blok ? hmm.gif
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hye guys...im new here...need some advise...im planning to buy 135lc soon...I have 2 choice...to buy a new bike or should look for 2nd hand bike and do some modification with the extra money...thanks
thianz
post May 22 2014, 01:26 AM

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QUOTE(manuel jr @ May 21 2014, 03:59 PM)
hye guys...im new here...need some advise...im planning to buy 135lc soon...I have 2 choice...to buy a new bike or should look for 2nd hand bike and do some modification with the extra money...thanks
*
beli baru jer la .. xpaya modi modi .. sakit dompet jer at the end ....
NewGUY
post May 22 2014, 08:49 AM

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QUOTE(thianz @ May 20 2014, 06:54 PM)
depends how urs ball of steel ......  straight ... full tank .. warm up engine ... naik highway ride like a boss ... saw petrol station refill , go pee ..... have a drink ... continue .....
wat happened to my blok ?  hmm.gif
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U say correct ride like boss, how many hrs u can tahan o? I x getting any younger by the day...

i show u liao ma, 1 of it leak EO ma...

so 1 return u and pay the block i m using lo..
NewGUY
post May 22 2014, 08:53 AM

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QUOTE(thianz @ May 22 2014, 01:26 AM)
beli baru jer la .. xpaya modi modi .. sakit dompet jer at the end ....
*
depends la, if got good pomen ok 1....

need to understand wat to mod....

I m satisfy wit my mod....

sakit dompet bcos the shop so hai, sell u fake part and high labor....

if no mod get 250cc, SYM T2 or CBR 250, Kawa 250....this no need to mod lo....

if like mod, x kira old or new u still mod....

so in order to save money better mod 2nd la...


manuel jr
post May 22 2014, 02:23 PM

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QUOTE(NewGUY @ May 22 2014, 08:53 AM)
depends la, if got good pomen ok 1....

need to understand wat to mod....

I m satisfy wit my mod....

sakit dompet bcos the shop so hai, sell u fake part and high labor....

if no mod get 250cc, SYM T2 or CBR 250, Kawa 250....this no need to mod lo....

if like mod, x kira old or new u still mod....

so in order to save money better mod 2nd la...
*
is it possible to mod 4 speed to 5 speed transmission...?

This post has been edited by manuel jr: May 22 2014, 02:24 PM
thianz
post May 22 2014, 03:53 PM

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QUOTE(NewGUY @ May 22 2014, 08:49 AM)
U say correct ride like boss, how many hrs u can tahan o? I x getting any younger by the day...

i show u liao ma, 1 of it leak EO ma...

so 1 return u and pay the block i m using lo..
*
oh oh ....

QUOTE(NewGUY @ May 22 2014, 08:53 AM)
depends la, if got good pomen ok 1....

need to understand wat to mod....

I m satisfy wit my mod....

sakit dompet bcos the shop so hai, sell u fake part and high labor....

if no mod get 250cc, SYM T2 or CBR 250, Kawa 250....this no need to mod lo....

if like mod, x kira old or new u still mod....

so in order to save money better mod 2nd la...
*
if got liao 250 .. still will gatal kacau juga .....

QUOTE(manuel jr @ May 22 2014, 02:23 PM)
is it possible to mod 4 speed to 5 speed transmission...?
*
for wat ? extra gear extra power ??? hmm.gif

piju
post May 23 2014, 03:03 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 19 2014, 02:39 PM)
pijuI know it's 1 5/8 turn for the VM carb, not sure for BS carb. I'll need to look at its service manual to tell if that is true or not, which I don't have. Do you have its service manual, since you own one? IMO, factory setting is usually richer, so that the bikes produced are more likely to run smoothly.

Keep this page for your reference: http://www.zrxoa.org/webpages/techinfo/carb/carbtuning.html
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bro alexei, i dont have the service manual. only owners manual. there are no topic on adjusting the fuel or air mixture for the carburetor. only idle screw (1300 - 1500 RPM) using a tachometer.

i searched on google, and didnt found any softcopy of new yamaha lc service manual.

perhaps, anybody here could help by telling the fuel screw stock setting for new yamaha lc ?
cahayamalamku
post May 26 2014, 10:57 AM

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QUOTE(NewGUY @ May 19 2014, 04:35 PM)
mine now only get 31.5km on average....
top for mine I expect not more than 145km/h
HP not more than 25HP,
LC about 130kg...
*
so, for full tank of 4.0l can go up to around 126km?
if you don't mind sharing, what is your average distance travelled for a full tank?

is it a good idea to wear a full face helmet if riding this bike? sweat.gif
i have never saw someone who ride a moped wearing full face helmet...
only saw those who ride scooters are using full face motocross helmet.
TSalexei
post May 26 2014, 11:05 AM

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cahayamalamkuto protect your face is up to you. I've seen quite regularly people wear fullface while riding moped. more common these days, since it's affordable, budget models like MHR, LS2, Greyfosh etc. motocross helmet i tried before, with visor, made me pening, and wind resistance quite bad.
gonth
post May 28 2014, 12:54 AM

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hi lc135 5s user here all stock except tyres....
TSalexei
post May 29 2014, 12:27 AM

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QUOTE(gonth @ May 28 2014, 12:54 AM)
hi lc135 5s user here all stock except tyres....
*
thumbup.gif rclxm9.gif
Welcome...
piju
post May 30 2014, 02:37 PM

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bro alexei,
i have found the manual for MIKUNI BS25 carburetor on NEW YAMAHA 135 LC.
now i am very sure that my previous setup is 100% same as written on the manual. like i said before, i get high RPM on 2 and half turns and i turn it more and my total turns out is 2 and 3/4 turns.

looking to the manual for new yamaha lc v2, it is the same value. i also looked at yamaha lc v1 which is mikuni vm22. it is 1 5/8 turns out for yamaha 135 v1 MIKUNI VM22 and 2 3/4 turns out for yamaha 135 v2 MIKUNI BS25.

user posted image

user posted image

I asked few people from another forum, they said for VM22 you can try to use 2 1/4 turns out or 2 1/2 turns out for optimal setting.

for BS25, you can also try 2 1/2 turns out but the best i have tried is 2 3/4 turns out.

This post has been edited by piju: May 30 2014, 04:29 PM
TSalexei
post May 30 2014, 06:32 PM

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pijuGreat. Do you have link to the manual? I'll pin it in first page.
piju
post May 31 2014, 02:14 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 30 2014, 06:32 PM)
pijuGreat. Do you have link to the manual? I'll pin it in first page.
*
it is not exactly the manual for YAMAHA 135 LC, it is manual for SNIPER MX. In my opinion, both of them are using MIKUNI BS25 and i think the pilot screw turns out is applicable to NEW YAMAHA 135 LC or some people call is V2 135 LC.

http://www.2shared.com/document/v66UeVTW/S...l-StreetMo.html

btw bro alexei, as far as i think, some people will satisfied with 2 3/4 turns out and some people will satisfied with 2 1/2 turns. Depending on their living places, Atmospheric pressure, humidity, temperature.

so the best setting with stock air filter is between 2 1/2 - 2 3/4 turns.

This post has been edited by piju: Jun 1 2014, 01:52 AM
Mr.CoMoT
post Jun 1 2014, 02:40 PM

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New user here.. LC135SS anything that i should not do to my new bike? Its really truth about the PANTANG things?? Currently maximum speed 80-90.. Never touch 100 yet..sked bcos still new..hmm
NewGUY
post Jun 1 2014, 07:18 PM

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QUOTE(manuel jr @ May 22 2014, 02:23 PM)
is it possible to mod 4 speed to 5 speed transmission...?
*
New LC got the whole set where u can add extra gear...

I x remember u can add 5 or 6 gear....
NewGUY
post Jun 1 2014, 07:20 PM

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QUOTE(cahayamalamku @ May 26 2014, 10:57 AM)
so, for full tank of 4.0l can go up to around 126km?
if you don't mind sharing, what is your average distance travelled for a full tank?

is it a good idea to wear a full face helmet if riding this bike? sweat.gif
i have never saw someone who ride a moped wearing full face helmet...
only saw those who ride scooters are using full face motocross helmet.
*
already tell, why u ask la? is that not the answer...
TSalexei
post Jun 2 2014, 11:11 AM

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QUOTE(Mr.CoMoT @ Jun 1 2014, 02:40 PM)
New user here.. LC135SS anything that i should not do to my new bike? Its really truth about the PANTANG things?? Currently maximum speed 80-90.. Never touch 100 yet..sked bcos still new..hmm
*
Welcome to the ownership club.
DiaSil block don't really pantang, but IMO it is more for other mechanical parts as well, like the crankshaft bearing, camshaft, etc... the pantang is more on engine load and RPM, not really speed.

Also, view page 1 for all the info you'll need.
Videos on hard break in included there.

thumbup.gif
lms2005
post Jun 2 2014, 11:34 AM

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front cover (cover horn) for lc v2 2012 & 2014 is it same?
NewGUY
post Jun 2 2014, 04:39 PM

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QUOTE(lms2005 @ Jun 2 2014, 11:34 AM)
front cover (cover horn) for lc v2 2012 & 2014 is it same?
*
not same
NewGUY
post Jun 2 2014, 04:41 PM

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FYI

Kawazaki 150RR already EOL few months day...
125ZR EOL this year end, bye bye 2 stroke except old bike...

Kawazaki 250cc single piston price at 17k....still overprice....
TSalexei
post Jun 2 2014, 05:14 PM

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Buy LC, can beat KR150 and Ninja 250.
QUOTE
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

thianz
post Jun 2 2014, 05:35 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 2 2014, 05:14 PM)
Buy LC, can beat KR150 and Ninja 250.
*
obviously the kr150 tak tau pandu la ... laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif
azdilaamizwar
post Jun 2 2014, 07:08 PM

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just want to ask, anyone using shell rimula r4x (HDEO) on their 135lc? any review or comments regarding this EO? Thanks biggrin.gif
thianz
post Jun 2 2014, 07:25 PM

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QUOTE(azdilaamizwar @ Jun 2 2014, 07:08 PM)
just want to ask, anyone using shell rimula r4x (HDEO) on their 135lc? any review or comments regarding this EO? Thanks biggrin.gif
*
me .... whistling.gif whistling.gif macam biasa .. pls warm up engine baru bergerak brows.gif
azdilaamizwar
post Jun 2 2014, 09:14 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Jun 2 2014, 07:25 PM)
me ....  whistling.gif  whistling.gif macam biasa .. pls warm up engine baru bergerak  brows.gif
*
any negative side effects? brows.gif
TSalexei
post Jun 2 2014, 09:43 PM

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I use R3x on my 2stroke.
thianz
post Jun 2 2014, 09:45 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 2 2014, 09:43 PM)
I use R3x on my 2stroke.
*
clutch no slip on high speed? brows.gif
TSalexei
post Jun 2 2014, 09:46 PM

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QUOTE(azdilaamizwar @ Jun 2 2014, 09:14 PM)
any negative side effects?  brows.gif
*
Side effect is, it is so much cheaper compared to motorcycle EO and it makes you worry.
You don't believe the quality is so much better in comparison.
Then, you notice some weird sound, and you blame the EO.
And, after a while, anything also macam tak betul, and you blame the EO...

Just kidding.
Please read first page about recommended EO for bikes. R4x is similar to Shell Rotella. smile.gif
TSalexei
post Jun 2 2014, 09:48 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Jun 2 2014, 09:45 PM)
clutch no slip on high speed?  brows.gif
*
I don't go very fast.
New clutch plates.
R3x don't have friction modifier.
If clutch slip, most likely the rider fault, not the oil.
thianz
post Jun 2 2014, 09:50 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 2 2014, 09:48 PM)
I don't go very fast.
New clutch plates.
R3x don't have friction modifier.
If clutch slip, most likely the rider fault, not the oil.
*
try vroom vroom 1 round let me know .... brows.gif brows.gif
TSalexei
post Jun 2 2014, 11:10 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Jun 2 2014, 09:50 PM)
try vroom vroom 1 round let me know ....  brows.gif  brows.gif
*
You having clutch slippage?
thianz
post Jun 3 2014, 03:41 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 2 2014, 11:10 PM)
You having clutch slippage?
*
alittle bit whn aggressive style start pickup ... just make sure EO temperature is warm be4 moving .... icon_idea.gif icon_idea.gif slip feeling sudah tiada ... brows.gif
Mr.CoMoT
post Jun 3 2014, 07:30 PM

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yesterday..not heavy rain..but road basah & licin..

break then tergolek..ekzos scratch already...

today break emergency..coz got sohai ppl driving..no signal..just change lane..almost tergolek also.nasib boleh kawal..

so my question is..is really2 LC tyre very licin???

i think its time to change tyre la..whats best??

my lc is 1 week old sweat.gif sweat.gif tongue.gif brows.gif

thianz
post Jun 3 2014, 10:38 PM

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QUOTE(Mr.CoMoT @ Jun 3 2014, 07:30 PM)
yesterday..not heavy rain..but road basah & licin..

break then tergolek..ekzos scratch already...

today break emergency..coz got sohai ppl driving..no signal..just change lane..almost tergolek also.nasib boleh kawal..

so my question is..is really2 LC tyre very licin???

i think its time to change tyre la..whats best??

my lc  is 1 week old  sweat.gif  sweat.gif  tongue.gif  brows.gif
*
apa brand tyre oh ? pakai battlax pun kenot 100% brake on time la ... road basah & licin
Mr.CoMoT
post Jun 3 2014, 11:04 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Jun 3 2014, 10:38 PM)
apa brand  tyre oh ?  pakai battlax pun kenot 100% brake on time la ... road basah & licin
*
duro if tak salah.. sweat.gif sweat.gif
TSalexei
post Jun 3 2014, 11:06 PM

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Mr.CoMoTsad to hear.
when you fall the first time, did the tyre kena the road stripes? please avoid road stripes when wet, even when you're going straight.

the second incident, during an emergency braking on a straight line, how is it possible that you can tergolek? is it becoz the front tyre slipped? or the rear tyre?

what kind of bike did u use to ride? maybe you're not used to the new brakes on LC?
Mr.CoMoT
post Jun 3 2014, 11:16 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 3 2014, 11:06 PM)
Mr.CoMoTsad to hear.
when you fall the first time, did the tyre kena the road stripes? please avoid road stripes when wet, even when you're going straight.

the second incident, during an emergency braking on a straight line, how is it possible that you can tergolek? is it becoz the front tyre slipped? or the rear tyre?

what kind of bike did u use to ride? maybe you're not used to the new brakes on LC?
*
yeah,. i think in road stripes(if not wrong la..i hit rear brake..then front..then cant control already.. sweat.gif sweat.gif ..suddeny got ppl lintas..haiz.. sweat.gif sweat.gif

second is rear.i just push the rear brake..then motor goyang2 already....yeah..just got a license..

first ride on LC summore.. sweat.gif sweat.gif

i think my brake skill is 1/10... doh.gif doh.gif
piju
post Jun 3 2014, 11:46 PM

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bro alexei

my experiment on MIKUNI BS25.
after day and day trying to get optimum setting for this carburetor, i have found that 3 turns of pilot screw is the best setting for acceleration also cold start.

i have tried 2 1/2, 2 3/4 and 2 5/8 turns out.

throttle response is better than stock setting written on service manual which is 2 and 3/4 turns out.

since the pilot screw for mikuni bs25 is controlling both air and fuel, not controlling the air or fuel only. i think 3 turns out is the optimum setting for it.

my opinion, if anybody wants to get better result on top speed, maybe they need to consider rejetting the carburetor since pilot screw only affecting idle and first step of acceleration. which is not in my mind at the moment. because i think that rejetting the carb only is not an economical wise choice. we need to consider changing the piston and block size, bigger valves, harden valve springs, high lift or high duration camshaft, bigger intake manifold, bigger exhaust, high output ignition coil, sprockets ratio and so on to make them balanced each others since they are related to each others.

to those who wants to make a light modifications for better performance than factory setting to their yamaha lc v2, my suggestion is :-

1. resetting your stock pilot screw setting on your carburetor
2. play around which your sprocket ratio ( this setting is vary from people to people since our body weight is different )
3. change to bigger size exhaust, but not too big. maximum size is +6mm than stock exhaust. 28mm is maximum.
4. change to lighter sprocket and drive chain.
5. change to smaller tyre size.

if you ride less than 100kmh daily, better use 10w 40 semi synthetic. more than 100kmh daily, better use 15w 50.

bro alexei, i once read about using fully synthetic for wet clutch systems is a bad thing to do. could you please clarify this to me ? because now i'm using petronas synthium moto 10w 50 fully sintetik. but sometimes i use belray 15w 50 semi sintetik with additional of STP oil treatment.

thanks



This post has been edited by piju: Jun 4 2014, 12:03 AM
lms2005
post Jun 4 2014, 06:41 AM

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QUOTE(piju @ Jun 3 2014, 11:46 PM)

if you ride less than 100kmh daily, better use 10w 40 semi synthetic. more than 100kmh daily, better use 15w 50.

bro alexei, i once read about using fully synthetic for wet clutch systems is a bad thing to do. could you please clarify this to me ? because now i'm using petronas synthium moto 10w 50 fully sintetik. but sometimes i use belray 15w 50 semi sintetik with additional of STP oil treatment.

thanks
*
I use hdeo whistling.gif

Avoid fully if full throttle everyday
TSalexei
post Jun 4 2014, 10:28 AM

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- quoted by piju below -

This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 4 2014, 01:58 PM
piju
post Jun 4 2014, 01:24 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 4 2014, 10:28 AM)
piju
Thanks for your contribution to the thread, and detailed update.
I hope others here will benefit from your guide. Post is pinned.

I think BS25 pilot screw is fuel jet. So, the more you open or turn counter-clockwise, the more fuel will be mixed. In other words, reduce air-fuel ratio, making the pilot circuit richer. The amount of air is constant, based on throttle opening. Don't forget, not to mess with air filter for BS25.

Exhaust tuning is a different animal. The size is just a part of it. The tuning involves measuring the port timing, and deciding the 'tune' for each sections of the pipe. A bad exhaust can over draw fresh air through the intake port to the exhaust, or block exhaust gas from exiting the exhaust port...

Smaller tyre is not a measure of performance, think safety first.
Also, suspension and brakes system.

For EO, I will always point you to first page, for the recommended oil link.
In my personal experience, is not to use a viscosity higher than factory recommendation. Imagine this:
- Higher viscosity oil needs high pressure to flow at the same rate than a lower viscosity oil. Since you're not increasing oil pressure, you may cause oil starve in some areas...
- High viscosity oil is harder to go through small clearance gap.
- High viscosity oil does not necessary have higher film strength for surface protection. Oil quality does.

For synthetic vs semi vs mineral in a wet clutch system, you need to point out the source, as I haven't heard of this.
What I know is there should not be friction modifiers, or things like moly additive, which could cause clutch slip.

As for oil treatment, consider this, 4 stroke bike EO works from the engine head to the gearbox. The mechanical stress to the oil is harsher than car. Should you add a car EO additive to your bike?

As for HDEO, it is designed for diesel engines. Diesel engine is high stress low (<6k) RPM engine. As for bike, they run at relatively higher RPM than diesel engines, up to 8k. Based on their design use case, should you use HDEO in a bike?
*
bro alexei,
for my personal opinion, moped is not designed to be ride for a long and hard journey. moped is designed to be use for short distance. if we use our moped for a long journey daily, i think we need to use higher viscosity oil or higher grade rather than using what is written on service manual. as long as the oil is for bike, not for car or truck.

i once go to hong leong yamaha at sungai buloh near my work place. i asked the mechanic, what is the best oil for yamaha 135 lc ? he said depends on your purposes. what he mean is, if we ride long and far journey daily, better use fully syntethic and higher viscosity.

i am absolutely not going to use any of car oil treatment on my motocycle. i only use STP which is for motocycle. dont get confuse with my earlier post. oil treatment for motocycle has only low value of zinc dialyldithiophosphate to prevent wear on your engine. car oil treatment has higher value which is not good for motocycle since higher value of it can increase wear. like i already said, the keyword is balance. a more of something can be good but the too much of something doesnt mean good.

about the tyre, i dont recommend any of SOTONG tyre. front 80/90, rear 90/80 is already good for normal usage. what i think the best is, front 80/90 and rear 90/90. but it is too hard to find 90/90 tyre.

HDEO is not suitable for motocycle since it has more zinc dialyldithiophosphate. suitable for heavy duty engine like truck or lorry which running on diesel engine and has no catalytic converter.

btw, bro alexei.

since yamaha 135 lc has its own oil filtering medium, i installed uma racing bypass valve replacing my oil tank cap to relieve the pressure inside my engine.

as stated on uma racing website,

"This product has many benefits. Firstly, the UMAbreather valve is used to replace the original motor oil tank cap to relieve pressure in the engine. As known, engine oil goes through the filtering medium, so it is important to ensure that the pressure loss in the filter does not exceed. This is why the bypass valve in place. If the pressure is incorrect, then the valve will open automatically, allowing oil to bypass the filtering system and balancing the oil pressures.

By controlling the engine pressures, the bypass valve can help the engine to run longer and work efficiently. In the long run, it significantly prolongs the engine life. On the other hand, it can speed up the oil heating especially when the engine is cold, and it will cool faster when the engine is off. Therefore, this product will give you steady and better warm-up RPM. Additionally, with good ventilation, the oil will stay cleaner for longer period.

Besides, the breather valve is also efficient in removing small particles and soot through breather hose. It ensures the engine oil will continue to flow even when the filter has clogged. The bypass valve opening is the only way to keep the motor from becoming oil-starved if the filter becomes clogged. Therefore, the Uma Racing high performance bypass valve not only will greatly reduce the engine pressure, but it allows you to ride with worry-free."

This post has been edited by piju: Jun 4 2014, 01:34 PM
piju
post Jun 4 2014, 01:51 PM

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i want to share about my yamaha 135 lc headlamp.
stock bulb is stanley 32 watts. after 1 year usage, the bulb is getting darker. i opened the bulb and see that the glass part of the bulb is full of burn deposit.

i went to a shop in pandan indah, and bought new bulb. OSRAM 35 watts. now my headlamp light is brighter than before. better than stanley. maybe you guy can try OSRAM 35 watts. it has different colours too.

i want to change my fog lamp bulbs, anybody tried faito H.I.D. Mini Bulb?

This post has been edited by piju: Jun 4 2014, 01:55 PM
piju
post Jun 5 2014, 12:01 PM

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if there anyone here who has a 2011 yamaha lc. you can try 3 turns out of pilot screw for your MIKUNI BS25 carburetor and you will feel the different between stock setting.

try it and post your result here.
thianz
post Jun 5 2014, 04:38 PM

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QUOTE(piju @ Jun 5 2014, 12:01 PM)
if there anyone here who has a 2011 yamaha lc. you can try 3 turns out of pilot screw for your MIKUNI BS25 carburetor and you will feel the different between stock setting.

try it and post your result here.
*
if 3 turn check ur plug color ..... stock setting below 2 turn ...
piju
post Jun 5 2014, 07:28 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Jun 5 2014, 04:38 PM)
if 3 turn check ur plug color .....  stock setting below 2 turn ...
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below 2 ? the service manual said 2 and 3/4.
TSalexei
post Jun 5 2014, 10:26 PM

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pijuAbout oil viscosity, here's what I found, and you'll have to read through it a little bit, hope it will answer some of your questions or provide new perspective:
Bob is the oil guy
Motorcycle Oil Page

The important thing is the first table and the last column, "high shear viscosity".
- The value of 15W-40, 20W-40, 25W-40 and and xxW-50 are the same at 3.7cP.
- To me, this means that I should be using this grade of xxW-40 EO, for the same level of engine protection of a xxW-50 EO.
- This type of xxW-40 EO, will have the benefit of lower viscosity, hence, better at flowing, removing heat from engine parts, and lower self heat generation, compared to xxW-50 EO.

This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 5 2014, 11:45 PM
TSalexei
post Jun 5 2014, 11:48 PM

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Riding safety:
QUOTE
Many riders will tell you to wear bright orange or red clothing, and to get a device that flashes your headlight. Personally, I disagree with this: I believe that when car drivers see me, they steer for me. It's that "you go where you look" thing. I'd rather be invisible and completely responsible for my own safety. However, I note that most riding instructors will disagree with this and tell you to do everything you can to get the attention of other drivers. You'll have to make your own call on this. One thing on which the MSF instructors and I will readily agree: if your safety program is to hope and believe that car drivers will look out for you, you are going to be a statistic. On a motorcycle, defensive and predictive driving is everything.

Source: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/MotorcycleIntro4.html
piju
post Jun 6 2014, 01:01 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 5 2014, 10:26 PM)
pijuAbout oil viscosity, here's what I found, and you'll have to read through it a little bit, hope it will answer some of your questions or provide new perspective:
Bob is the oil guy
Motorcycle Oil Page

The important thing is the first table and the last column, "high shear viscosity".
- The value of 15W-40, 20W-40, 25W-40 and and xxW-50 are the same at 3.7cP.
- To me, this means that I should be using this grade of xxW-40 EO, for the same level of engine protection of a xxW-50 EO.
- This type of xxW-40 EO, will have the benefit of lower viscosity, hence, better at flowing, removing heat from engine parts, and lower self heat generation, compared to xxW-50 EO.
*
bro alexei,

seems like 10w 40 protecting the engine same as 15w 50 but 10w 40 has lower value of Kinematic Viscosity (cSt) at 100°C Max.

10w has more advantage on Low-Temp (°C) Cranking Viscosity, cP Max at 3500 @ -20 degrees which is i dont think that we have that temperature here in Malaysia.

but 15w 50 has advantage on Kinematic Viscosity (cSt) at 100°C Max ( below our engine's operating temperature ).

both 10w 40 and 15w 50 has the same value for High Shear Viscosity (cP) at 150°C Min which i also dont think that our engine reaches that temperature too.

i prefer more protection below 100 degrees.

referring to the service manual, both 20w 50 and 20w 40 can be use on yamaha 135 lc 2011. the lower "W" value is optional.

user posted image




TSalexei
post Jun 6 2014, 04:56 PM

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pijuyou're reading the table wrongly.
10W-40 has lower shear force, than 15W-40.
15W-40 has similar shear force requirements to a 15W-50.
Viscosity numbers, the lower the lighter, faster heat transfer, lesser internal friction and self heat generation.
piju
post Jun 8 2014, 05:07 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 6 2014, 04:56 PM)
pijuyou're reading the table wrongly.
10W-40 has lower shear force, than 15W-40.
15W-40 has similar shear force requirements to a 15W-50.
Viscosity numbers, the lower the lighter, faster heat transfer, lesser internal  friction and self heat generation.
*
both 50 and 40 can be use with yamaha lc. i wonder why the manual mention 50 first and then 40 next.


jern25
post Jun 9 2014, 03:26 PM

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hi guys. is there any of us are using/ have experience to use Michelin Pilot Street Radial tyres? care to give review on the particular tyres? i've read some review on the internet. maybe just wanna have some personal experience from LC user on this tyres. smile.gif

im planning to change my tyre but in no hurry coz stock tyre still ok. Vee Rubber is quite slippery la on wet surface.
thianz
post Jun 9 2014, 04:32 PM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Jun 9 2014, 03:26 PM)
hi guys. is there any of us are using/ have experience to use Michelin Pilot Street Radial tyres? care to give review on the particular tyres? i've read some review on the internet. maybe just wanna have some personal experience from LC user on this tyres. smile.gif

im planning to change my tyre but in no hurry coz stock tyre still ok. Vee Rubber is quite slippery la on wet surface.
*
pergi survey kedai ada apa brand tyre lagi.. compare harga beza ..,, harga tayar skrg memang gila mahal .....

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «



jern25
post Jun 9 2014, 05:25 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Jun 9 2014, 04:32 PM)
pergi survey kedai ada apa brand tyre lagi.. compare harga beza ..,,  harga tayar skrg memang gila mahal .....

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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haha.bab harga mmg gi compare,cumenye nak tau user experience bos.
TSalexei
post Jun 10 2014, 12:25 AM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Jun 9 2014, 05:25 PM)
haha.bab harga mmg gi compare,cumenye nak tau user experience bos.
*
Slide me couple of times. This is budget tyre. Can't recommend it for grip.
Michelin also mention this tyre grip is 2/5.

Source: Michelin website

This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 10 2014, 12:27 AM
jern25
post Jun 10 2014, 05:00 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 10 2014, 12:25 AM)
Slide me couple of times. This is budget tyre. Can't recommend it for grip.
Michelin also mention this tyre grip is 2/5.

Source: Michelin website
*
oh is it? so duro 918 is still one of the better tyre for wet surface is it? have u tried it?
TSalexei
post Jun 10 2014, 05:23 PM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Jun 10 2014, 05:00 PM)
oh is it? so duro 918 is still one of the better tyre for wet surface is it? have u tried it?
*
I've tried Duro Racing, but another member said this tyre also not very good in wet.
In my experience, no tyres around RM100 is good on wet surface...
koie06
post Jun 11 2014, 02:38 PM

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hello guys..

im a new owner of LC 5 Speed. own it around 2month. hope can learn something bout LC here.

only change front tire after 1 week owning it..haha..
TSalexei
post Jun 11 2014, 06:18 PM

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QUOTE(koie06 @ Jun 11 2014, 02:38 PM)
hello guys..

im a new owner of LC 5 Speed. own it around 2month. hope can learn something bout LC here.

only change front tire after 1 week owning it..haha..
*
hello, welcome... if wanna know more things, can check out page one.
lms2005
post Jun 11 2014, 09:36 PM

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anyone know where can get lc spray in aerosol spray can?
thianz
post Jun 11 2014, 11:08 PM

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QUOTE(lms2005 @ Jun 11 2014, 09:36 PM)
anyone know where can get lc spray in aerosol spray can?
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kdai hardware , kedai DIY .... nod.gif
TSalexei
post Jun 11 2014, 11:09 PM

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QUOTE(lms2005 @ Jun 11 2014, 09:36 PM)
anyone know where can get lc spray in aerosol spray can?
*
Not that I know of. You need to know the Yamaha color codes that you want, then get people to mix it.
Resources
koie06
post Jun 12 2014, 09:29 AM

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i have replace my LC front tyre to 90/80. already alter front mudguard but the tyre still scrubbing my front mudguard when im doing emergency braking.

the tyre is not center when braking. folk stabilizer can really solve this problem?
TSalexei
post Jun 12 2014, 10:03 AM

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QUOTE(koie06 @ Jun 12 2014, 09:29 AM)
i have replace my LC front tyre to 90/80. already alter front mudguard but the tyre still scrubbing my front mudguard when im doing emergency braking.

the tyre is not center when braking. folk stabilizer can really solve this problem?
*
Tyre is too big for the stock mudguard, need to replace with others like FZ, IINM.
Stock LCES should have a metal bracket under the front mudguard, I know because I salvaged a piece for my future mod.
Tyre not center, is it relative to the headlamp? Or relative to the mudguard... please elaborate more.
koie06
post Jun 12 2014, 10:59 AM

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the problem come only when braking. the tire & mudguard will misaligned when braking.

My LCES 5speed doesnt have metal bracket under front mudguard as im the one who alter the mudguard.

Do aftermarket folk stabilizer will solve this issue?

will Racing Boy V1 folk stabilizer fit into LC 5S? because i dont like the design of the V2 folk stabilizer.

This post has been edited by koie06: Jun 12 2014, 11:26 AM
zkhin
post Jun 12 2014, 01:40 PM

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Hi guys. I used to own a 135LC. Now planning to get one with clutch. Is the one with clutch better or not? I had duke 200 for a year so im quite comfortable with clutch. Any suggestions? ty
lms2005
post Jun 12 2014, 02:16 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 11 2014, 11:09 PM)
Not that I know of. You need to know the Yamaha color codes that you want, then get people to mix it.
Resources
*
oledi get code from hly, its from nippon paint..

but nippon said its for project use only... hmm.gif
koie06
post Jun 12 2014, 02:17 PM

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hi zkhin,

just my opinion, hand clutch is less maintenance for long run. dont have to think about autoclutch & autoclutch housing replacement at all. lighter engine rev due to less load to engine. lighter engine = better fuel consumption(but not significant and still depend on how you ride it)

but for autoclutch is more relaxing + easy to ride. hehe
zkhin
post Jun 12 2014, 02:24 PM

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QUOTE(koie06 @ Jun 12 2014, 02:17 PM)
hi zkhin,

just my opinion, hand clutch is less maintenance for long run. dont have to think about autoclutch & autoclutch housing replacement at all. lighter engine rev due to less load to engine. lighter engine = better fuel consumption(but not significant and still depend on how you ride it)

but for autoclutch is more relaxing + easy to ride. hehe
*
how much did u got ur 135 include insurance and tax?
cahayamalamku
post Jun 12 2014, 02:35 PM

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QUOTE(koie06 @ Jun 12 2014, 02:17 PM)
hi zkhin,

just my opinion, hand clutch is less maintenance for long run. dont have to think about autoclutch & autoclutch housing replacement at all. lighter engine rev due to less load to engine. lighter engine = better fuel consumption(but not significant and still depend on how you ride it)

but for autoclutch is more relaxing + easy to ride. hehe
*
heard that manual clutch is easier to 'rosak'? my friend told me that but he's riding lc135 ss v1 (auto clutch). not sure about v2.
TSalexei
post Jun 12 2014, 02:58 PM

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Manual vs auto is like Cola vs 7-up, both types have their strengths and weaknesses.
Technically speaking, auto-clutch generates more clutch dust into the EO, compared to manual clutch.
Different viscosity oil affects auto-clutch, too. But, most riders don't feel it.
Auto-clutch also have lower end specs (rim size, tyre size, brake type), compared to manual bikes...

QUOTE(koie06 @ Jun 12 2014, 10:59 AM)
the problem come only when braking. the tire & mudguard will misaligned when braking.
My LCES 5speed doesnt have metal bracket under front mudguard as im the one who alter the mudguard.

Do aftermarket folk stabilizer will solve this issue?
will Racing Boy V1 folk stabilizer fit into LC 5S? because i dont like the design of the V2 folk stabilizer.
*
biggrin.gif
I think you know very well that it should not behave like that.
Can you check if there's a screw loose, or brake disc not tightened?
How about the fork T-clamp?

Fork stabilizer will hide the issue, not fix it.

QUOTE(zkhin @ Jun 12 2014, 01:40 PM)
Hi guys. I used to own a 135LC. Now planning to get one with clutch. Is the one with clutch better or not? I had duke 200 for a year so im quite comfortable with clutch. Any suggestions? ty
*
How is Duke 200? Any reason you're considering LC?

QUOTE(lms2005 @ Jun 12 2014, 02:16 PM)
oledi get code from hly, its from nippon paint..

but nippon said its for project use only...  hmm.gif
*
I don't think there is, but you can try ACE Hardware. Sometimes they have aerosol paint for bikes.
koie06
post Jun 12 2014, 03:11 PM

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alexei,

yes, it should not behave like that. its like 1 of the folk is softer than the other. so, u think its better to put in folk stabilizer or try to search for other permanent solution?

any ideas?

all LC having issue on front folk?

-to check, pull front brake and push ur bike forward. see how the tire & mudguard moving, is it center or the tire will move a bit to the right.
koie06
post Jun 12 2014, 03:13 PM

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QUOTE(zkhin @ Jun 12 2014, 02:24 PM)
how much did u got ur 135 include insurance and tax?
*
i think its around RM7400 otr price.

im taking loan with AEON.

D/P : RM1800
Monthly : RM322
Duration : 2years
lms2005
post Jun 12 2014, 04:31 PM

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QUOTE(koie06 @ Jun 12 2014, 03:13 PM)
i think its around RM7400 otr price.

im taking loan with AEON.

D/P : RM1800
Monthly : RM322
Duration : 2years
*
i bought 7k cash w/o insu & rtax related charges.. insu around 35x (25%ncd)
TSalexei
post Jun 12 2014, 05:43 PM

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QUOTE(koie06 @ Jun 12 2014, 03:11 PM)
alexei,

yes, it should not behave like that. its like 1 of the folk is softer than the other. so, u think its better to put in folk stabilizer or try to search for other permanent solution?

any ideas?

all LC having issue on front folk?

-to check, pull front brake and push ur bike forward. see how the tire & mudguard moving, is it center or the tire will move a bit to the right.
*
Maybe the fork oil level not same on both sides... check everything.
zkhin
post Jun 12 2014, 07:03 PM

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QUOTE(cahayamalamku @ Jun 12 2014, 02:35 PM)
heard that manual clutch is easier to 'rosak'? my friend told me that but he's riding lc135 ss v1 (auto clutch). not sure about v2.
*
v1 is the old 135 lc? or the current model has 2 versions?
zkhin
post Jun 12 2014, 07:06 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 12 2014, 02:58 PM)

How is Duke 200? Any reason you're considering LC?

*
Dad sold it off and got a duke 690. I just graduated so maintaining that duke200 itself is a problem. So now planning to get one for city ride, i ride a lot around. I prefer the clutch one actually. So it is good compared to non clutch ones?
TSalexei
post Jun 12 2014, 10:08 PM

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QUOTE(zkhin @ Jun 12 2014, 07:06 PM)
Dad sold it off and got a duke 690. I just graduated so maintaining that duke200 itself is a problem. So now planning to get one for city ride, i ride a lot around. I prefer the clutch one actually. So it is good compared to non clutch ones?
*
fwah.
I'd say it'd be better for you to get manual ES, over auto SS.
zkhin
post Jun 12 2014, 10:25 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 12 2014, 10:08 PM)
fwah.
I'd say it'd be better for you to get manual ES, over auto SS.
*
btw i realise there's a gp edition for 135 lc. is there any difference compared to normal ones except the cover set? Saw one in the shop just now
TSalexei
post Jun 13 2014, 12:08 AM

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QUOTE(zkhin @ Jun 12 2014, 10:25 PM)
btw i realise there's a gp edition for 135 lc. is there any difference compared to normal ones except the cover set? Saw one in the shop just now
*
color only, as far as I can gather...
zkhin
post Jun 13 2014, 03:46 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 13 2014, 12:08 AM)
color only, as far as I can gather...
*
Any idea where to get the Audi like front like for lc? How much does it cost? Is it easy to assemble myself?
TSalexei
post Jun 13 2014, 07:12 AM

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QUOTE(zkhin @ Jun 13 2014, 03:46 AM)
Any idea where to get the Audi like front like for lc? How much does it cost? Is it easy to assemble myself?
*
what is 'Audi like front like'?
Do you mean light? Or something else?
I don't think I know, best guess would be accessories shops?
koie06
post Jun 13 2014, 08:47 AM

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u mean this light?
Front Light

for LC ES V2 previous and current model got different with front signal light and front cover set. current model light is bigger. please compare 1st.

LC ES 5speed engine is noisier than autoclutch. got "kok, kok, kok" sound. but its normal i guess.

Comparison of front coverset shape (Above is current model & below is the previous model):
Attached Image

This post has been edited by koie06: Jun 13 2014, 11:39 AM
zkhin
post Jun 13 2014, 12:22 PM

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QUOTE(koie06 @ Jun 13 2014, 08:47 AM)
u mean this light?
Front Light

for LC ES V2 previous and current model got different with front signal light and front cover set. current model light is bigger. please compare 1st.

LC ES 5speed engine is noisier than autoclutch. got "kok, kok, kok" sound. but its normal i guess.

Comparison of front coverset shape (Above is current model & below is the previous model):
Attached Image
*
Yes around that kind. But I saw a lot more colours one. Damn nice. Just heard from a friend the new 5s is not as powerful as it used to be is 4s isit true?
koie06
post Jun 13 2014, 12:30 PM

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what i heard meter reading for V1 & V2 is different.

example:
V1 140kmh = V2 120kmh

for V2 5S tested with my brother Duke390:
V2 5S 80kmh = Duke390 80kmh

correct me if im wrong about V1 & V2.
spadecrew
post Jun 13 2014, 02:41 PM

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hi there...any shop recomended in s.alam to service and modified anything?
koie06
post Jun 13 2014, 03:09 PM

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U can visit YYPang at sec 25 (maybe a bit pricey)

if u dont mind to come to KL, i personally recommend Green Motive Extreme at sentul

or u can go to RedSpeed at wangsa setia 3.

This post has been edited by koie06: Jun 13 2014, 03:13 PM
yanmokhtar
post Jun 13 2014, 03:35 PM

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Hello friends,
this is my 1st posting since following this forum from 2009 laugh.gif

This post has been edited by yanmokhtar: Jun 13 2014, 03:38 PM
koie06
post Jun 13 2014, 04:03 PM

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QUOTE(yanmokhtar @ Jun 13 2014, 03:35 PM)
Hello friends,
this is my 1st posting since following this forum from 2009  laugh.gif
*
welcome sifu.. rclxms.gif

This post has been edited by koie06: Jun 13 2014, 04:04 PM
zkhin
post Jun 13 2014, 05:33 PM

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A shop quoted me RM7500 for the gp edition. the price already included insurance and tax?
koie06
post Jun 13 2014, 09:26 PM

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please ask for year of manufacture. as i've been inform by the sales men at the bike shop, GP edition for 2014 is not come out yet. usually launch around October and this year dont know yamaha choose which model for GP Edition.

but dont believe on me 100% because im not working with Hong Leong Yamaha..haha
TSalexei
post Jun 13 2014, 09:28 PM

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yanmokhtarwelcome indeed... let me know if you wanted to be added as owner's list.

zkhinThe price, need to ask. If included, I think worth it.
V2 uses BS carb, V1 uses VM carb. The power delivery is different, with the V2 being smoother.
Which version more powerful, they are same engine from factory, difference would depend on tuning.
Back few page, you'll see piju journey on carb tuning.

This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 13 2014, 09:30 PM
zkhin
post Jun 13 2014, 10:33 PM

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@koie06 i know it is not the 2014 edition.

@alexei i think should be included, because he quoted me 7.3k for normal es. If im not wrong i saw the headlight with the orange side lights. So in conclusion it is better to get the v2 one right? But the es colour on v2 dont look as good as it used to be one white/red =(
lms2005
post Jun 14 2014, 12:15 AM

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regarding brake pad for lc5s...

the front one is it same with lagenda 2piston one?

the rear one same with any model? lc4s front?
NoobboyZzZ
post Jun 14 2014, 03:51 AM

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QUOTE(lms2005 @ Jun 14 2014, 12:15 AM)
regarding brake pad for lc5s...

the front one is it same with lagenda 2piston one?

the rear one same with any model? lc4s front?
*
125z for front and rear same thing laugh.gif

sight have an accident with my lc
bike not much problem but t-fork macam sudah gg

and broke my collar bone in the same time sleep at hospital for 5day doh.gif



This post has been edited by NoobboyZzZ: Jun 14 2014, 03:54 AM
TSalexei
post Jun 14 2014, 01:14 PM

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zkhinbetter or not I don't know lor, but spare part become very unique, harder to find?

NoobboyZzZwhen was that? just recently?
thianz
post Jun 14 2014, 03:02 PM

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QUOTE(NoobboyZzZ @ Jun 14 2014, 03:51 AM)
125z for front and rear same thing  laugh.gif

sight have an accident with my lc
bike not much problem but t-fork macam sudah gg

and broke my collar bone in the same time sleep at hospital for 5day  doh.gif
*
show la tht scar pic .. baru macho laugh.gif laugh.gif
NoobboyZzZ
post Jun 14 2014, 06:00 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 14 2014, 01:14 PM)
zkhinbetter or not I don't know lor, but spare part become very unique, harder to find?

NoobboyZzZwhen was that? just recently?
*
last 2 week laugh.gif now in recovering mode laugh.gif going 90kmh sudden rear wheel belayang layang then jatuh ,

Itsuki_Kun
post Jun 14 2014, 08:27 PM

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Apa masalah apabila diorg pasang tayar terbalik...? ada apa2 akan jadi tak..?
TSalexei
post Jun 14 2014, 08:35 PM

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QUOTE(NoobboyZzZ @ Jun 14 2014, 06:00 PM)
last 2 week  laugh.gif  now in recovering mode  laugh.gif  going 90kmh sudden rear wheel belayang layang then jatuh ,
*
Rear tyre pancit? or kena minyak?

QUOTE(Itsuki_Kun @ Jun 14 2014, 08:27 PM)
Apa masalah apabila diorg pasang tayar terbalik...? ada apa2 akan jadi tak..?
*
wah, long time no see...
if terbalik, as in rotation terbalik, when kena water, the tayar is easier to aqua plane.
Itsuki_Kun
post Jun 14 2014, 08:39 PM

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water problem only lah.. oh I see... Next time I want change my bike EO ka sun bian change back to correct side of tire..
Memang sudah lama tak jumpa.. I really miss TT like last time~
NoobboyZzZ
post Jun 15 2014, 04:24 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 14 2014, 08:35 PM)
Rear tyre pancit? or kena minyak?
wah, long time no see...
if terbalik, as in rotation terbalik, when kena water, the tayar is easier to aqua plane.
*
ingat ada minyak ...
spadecrew
post Jun 16 2014, 04:39 AM

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Hi guys...need some help...my standard bike 30k km (lc v1 4speed I think-the black n white colour) start to makan EO...last service only around 100-150ml of eo left...and my engine are vibrating like crazy at high rpm...and I think my cluth out already...

I was thinking to change block piston etc2 to counter the prob...but the main problem is I dont know how to go about(what good n not good)...and alang2 open engine I thought to modified it...

Here some few question that keep me pening:-

-there's lot of block/piston out there...which one to choose?
(Good power/reliable/less give headache) that can maintain high speed on highway-50km 1 way to office
X1r/Cms/shark/uma/fz ori/etc2

-what size of block/piston size should I use(60mm/62mm/65mm/etc2)

-when I change to bigger block/piston...to get all of the power out...is it better to change to racing head or korek ori head better?

-my engine vibrate like hell...is this the sign of my piston rod goyang? And/or Crankshaft being unbalanced?

-what is jack rod?

-do I need high cam?

-what cdi to use?

-which carburator to use?

-maybe my cluth plate out already...feel like not enough gear...never change since I buy the bike...30k km already...any recomendation on this? Change to original or any brand more syiok n reliable than ori?

Sorry for a lot of question...this is the first time to modified...before this using scooter only...huhu








cahayamalamku
post Jun 16 2014, 08:48 AM

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QUOTE(koie06 @ Jun 13 2014, 09:26 PM)
please ask for year of manufacture. as i've been inform by the sales men at the bike shop, GP edition for 2014 is not come out yet. usually launch around October and this year dont know yamaha choose which model for GP Edition.

but dont believe on me 100% because im not working with Hong Leong Yamaha..haha
*
the GP Edition should be launched around October like previous 2012's and 2011's. however, from info that i have gathered around the net, nothing much changes being done with the GP Edition. only the updated graphic/ livery design. more expensive and more 'panas' icon_idea.gif because they are limited brows.gif however, i do like the 2011's that came with black and blue wub.gif
koie06
post Jun 16 2014, 09:21 AM

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QUOTE(spadecrew @ Jun 16 2014, 04:39 AM)
Hi guys...need some help...my standard bike 30k km (lc v1 4speed I think-the black n white colour) start to makan EO...last service only around 100-150ml of eo left...and my engine are vibrating like crazy at high rpm...and I think my cluth out already...

I was thinking to change block piston etc2 to counter the prob...but the main problem is I dont know how to go about(what good n not good)...and alang2 open engine I thought to modified it...

Here some few question that keep me pening:-

-there's lot of block/piston out there...which one to choose?
(Good power/reliable/less give headache) that can maintain high speed on highway-50km 1 way to office
  X1r/Cms/shark/uma/fz ori/etc2

-what size of block/piston size should I use(60mm/62mm/65mm/etc2)

-when I change to bigger block/piston...to get all of the power out...is it better to change to racing head or korek ori head better?

-my engine vibrate like hell...is this the sign of my piston rod goyang? And/or Crankshaft being unbalanced?

-what is jack rod?

-do I need high cam?

-what cdi to use?

-which carburator to use?

-maybe my cluth plate out already...feel like not enough gear...never change since I buy the bike...30k km already...any recomendation on this? Change to original or any brand more syiok n reliable than ori?

Sorry for a lot of question...this is the first time to modified...before this using scooter only...huhu
*
Im new with LC. but already survey for some part recommend by foreman & some sifu's.

-there's lot of block/piston out there...which one to choose?
(Good power/reliable/less give headache) that can maintain high speed on highway-50km 1 way to office
X1r/Cms/shark/uma/fz ori/etc2
- Recommended to use CMS or UMA 62mm Ceramic Coated block + Forged Piston

-what size of block/piston size should I use(60mm/62mm/65mm/etc2)
- 60mm & 62mm. Bigger size = high maintenance + not durable for long distance

-when I change to bigger block/piston...to get all of the power out...is it better to change to racing head or korek ori head better?
- for 62mm or higher, its better to change to bigger valve to optimize the power. but not necessary.

-my engine vibrate like hell...is this the sign of my piston rod goyang? And/or Crankshaft being unbalanced?
- Rod goyang will make sound. if just vibrate its maybe your crankshaft not balance or crank bearing housing problem

-what is jack rod?
- Jack rod = up stroke

-do I need high cam?
- recommended to use high cam for wider powerband especially on high RPM.

-what cdi to use?
- BRT recommended

-which carburator to use?
- at lease 28mm carb. recommended to use UMA or PWK

-maybe my cluth plate out already...feel like not enough gear...never change since I buy the bike...30k km already...any recomendation on this? Change to original or any brand more syiok n reliable than ori?
- Just change to original clutch plate + UMA Racing Hyper Clutch Housing(5 spring) or Syscast Clutch Housing(6 spring) for better clutch friction

that just my opinion. Just wait for Sifu's reply. thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by koie06: Jun 16 2014, 09:22 AM
TSalexei
post Jun 16 2014, 11:12 AM

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koiespadecrewHere are my humble and personal opinion, generally applied to kapchais. No offense ya.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 17 2014, 08:24 AM
TSalexei
post Jun 16 2014, 01:33 PM

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We are approaching page 20.
Need a volunteer new TS for version 21.
koie06
post Jun 16 2014, 02:59 PM

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GO! GO! GO! alexei.... rclxms.gif
spadecrew
post Jun 16 2014, 04:56 PM

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Nice..tq for the reply...need to find good workshop in s.alam to do the work...hard to trust workshop nowdays...haih...

NoobboyZzZ
post Jun 17 2014, 05:00 AM

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QUOTE(koie06 @ Jun 16 2014, 09:21 AM)
Im new with LC. but already survey for some part recommend by foreman & some sifu's.

-there's lot of block/piston out there...which one to choose?
(Good power/reliable/less give headache) that can maintain high speed on highway-50km 1 way to office
  X1r/Cms/shark/uma/fz ori/etc2
- Recommended to use CMS or UMA 62mm Ceramic Coated block + Forged Piston

-what size of block/piston size should I use(60mm/62mm/65mm/etc2)
- 60mm & 62mm. Bigger size = high maintenance + not durable for long distance

-when I change to bigger block/piston...to get all of the power out...is it better to change to racing head or korek ori head better?
- for 62mm or higher, its better to change to bigger valve to optimize the power. but not necessary.

-my engine vibrate like hell...is this the sign of my piston rod goyang? And/or Crankshaft being unbalanced?
- Rod goyang will make sound. if just vibrate its maybe your crankshaft not balance or crank bearing housing problem

-what is jack rod?
- Jack rod = up stroke

-do I need high cam?
- recommended to use high cam for wider powerband especially on high RPM.

-what cdi to use?
- BRT recommended

-which carburator to use?
- at lease 28mm carb. recommended to use UMA or PWK

-maybe my cluth plate out already...feel like not enough gear...never change since I buy the bike...30k km already...any recomendation on this? Change to original or any brand more syiok n reliable than ori?
- Just change to original clutch plate + UMA Racing Hyper Clutch Housing(5 spring) or Syscast Clutch Housing(6 spring) for better clutch friction

that just my opinion. Just wait for Sifu's reply. thumbup.gif
*
get the shark 62mm ceramic thailand version not indonesia one
btw dont jack rod 1.5mm and for head jus take it good sifu port and polish it , if wan mroe power get a racing head but cost high
and cdi jus use any aftermarket cdi such as brt
carb u may use kips carb or tzm carb , tzm one already lari setting
clutch if can convert it to hand clutch , or use harder spring and racing clutch but comfirm will used up fast the clutch plate

goyang like hell normally ur eo habish cause u say burn a lot , piston ring or valve seal is out ...
if overhaul better include the mod u wan but maintaince sure high side , jus chg eo every 2k m use 20-50 eo sure can tahan sikit
TSalexei
post Jun 18 2014, 08:31 PM

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spadecrewas you can see, everybody opinion is so different.
Good luck, and most important thing is you know what you want.
wady89
post Jun 22 2014, 06:51 AM

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hi there people...any shop recomended in banting or closer area to service and modified anything?
As^Beauty
post Jun 22 2014, 11:34 AM

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Hi...bunyi apa ni?
During cold n idle only...


Tq..
CyberSundayz
post Jun 22 2014, 02:04 PM

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QUOTE(As^Beauty @ Jun 22 2014, 11:34 AM)
Hi...bunyi apa ni?
During cold n idle only...


Tq..
*
thianz
post Jun 22 2014, 02:17 PM

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QUOTE(As^Beauty @ Jun 22 2014, 11:34 AM)
Hi...bunyi apa ni?
During cold n idle only...


Tq..
*
pergi reset setting carb .... isi ron 97 sebulan sekali ke ... jgn ron 95 jer .....
As^Beauty
post Jun 22 2014, 03:05 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Jun 22 2014, 02:17 PM)
pergi reset setting carb .... isi ron 97 sebulan sekali ke ... jgn ron 95 jer  .....
*
Lor...carb punya pasal saja...ingat kena overhaul..hehe...tq tq..

Cybersundayz, tq repair broken link...

This post has been edited by As^Beauty: Jun 22 2014, 03:06 PM
thianz
post Jun 22 2014, 03:36 PM

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QUOTE(As^Beauty @ Jun 22 2014, 03:05 PM)
Lor...carb punya pasal saja...ingat kena overhaul..hehe...tq tq..

Cybersundayz, tq repair broken link...
*
pasal i dengar u start pagi susah sangat ..... try la cari sifu tolong service carb .... setting angin balik .... timing rendah ....
TSalexei
post Jun 23 2014, 10:43 AM

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QUOTE(As^Beauty @ Jun 22 2014, 11:34 AM)
Hi...bunyi apa ni?

Tq..
*
Did you change any parts?
IMO, carb is fine, just need to use choke to start.
As^Beauty
post Jun 23 2014, 12:39 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 23 2014, 10:43 AM)
Did you change any parts?
IMO, carb is fine, just need to use choke to start.
*
itu kebetulan saja susah nak start...bunyi tu yang menyakitkan hati..taktaktaktaktak
not changing any part..

This post has been edited by As^Beauty: Jun 23 2014, 12:41 PM
TSalexei
post Jun 23 2014, 03:34 PM

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QUOTE(As^Beauty @ Jun 23 2014, 12:39 PM)
itu kebetulan saja susah nak start...bunyi tu yang menyakitkan hati..taktaktaktaktak
not changing any part..
*
most probably engine head, or timing chain... need to check.
If the noise disappear after warm up, then maybe a lose piston that needs to warm up to fit better.
rosmanpositivo
post Jun 24 2014, 05:43 PM

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Hello guys. New rider here reporting in!

Mohon beri tunjuk ajar. *Bow down*


Damn I got lots of stuffs to read. Super-duper noob here.
crappy123
post Jun 24 2014, 09:07 PM

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any new mods?
TSalexei
post Jun 25 2014, 09:57 PM

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QUOTE(rosmanpositivo @ Jun 24 2014, 05:43 PM)
Hello guys. New rider here reporting in!

Mohon beri tunjuk ajar. *Bow down*
Damn I got lots of stuffs to read. Super-duper noob here.
*
welcome welcome... which state u from?

QUOTE(crappy123 @ Jun 24 2014, 09:07 PM)
any new mods?
*
u mean ur 70mm?
thianz
post Jun 25 2014, 10:06 PM

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mod fz blok + faito jack crank set + gearbox + big valve head ......

feel like wana layan highway balik .... motor std i duno how to ride adi ....
TSalexei
post Jun 26 2014, 07:57 AM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Jun 25 2014, 10:06 PM)
feel like wana layan highway balik .... motor std i duno how to ride adi ....
*
Penang mari? Few times still couldn't meet up TT...
thianz
post Jun 26 2014, 03:49 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 26 2014, 07:57 AM)
Penang mari? Few times still couldn't meet up TT...
*
i suddenly miss gerik ...... planing spend my A/L there & thailand brows.gif brows.gif
jern25
post Jun 27 2014, 05:23 PM

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is there v19 yet? nod.gif
TSalexei
post Jun 27 2014, 05:44 PM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Jun 27 2014, 05:23 PM)
is there v19 yet?  nod.gif
*
No, I'm waiting for volunteer to start.
cahayamalamku
post Jun 27 2014, 07:46 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 27 2014, 05:44 PM)
No, I'm waiting for volunteer to start.
*
2014 yamaha lc135 es including road tax, reg. no., insurance etc cash at RM7660.00 is it OK?

also is it good to install alarm system or it will void the warranty and kill the battery faster?
wady89
post Jun 28 2014, 10:30 AM

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hi there people...any shop, sifu recomended in banting, shah alam or closer area to service and modified anything?
name it tq
TSalexei
post Jun 28 2014, 10:23 PM

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solved.

This post has been edited by alexei: Jul 2 2014, 05:58 PM
serigala
post Jun 29 2014, 06:03 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 28 2014, 10:23 PM)
Price I am not familiar.
Alarm system is best to understand how it works, then install. Also, need to watch the installation.
If the installation just use wire cutter, sambung here and there, then use black tape... sorry, cannot accept. By normal standard, it must use proper connectors, soldered down, with heat shrink tubing, etc.

Alarm systems shouldn't kill battery faster. If it does, it probably isn't a good one.
I personally am not familiar with alarm options in the market, so can't advise much.
I'd recommend installing a hidden switch somewhere, as an immobilizer. Need basic wiring skills.
*
just page 21 only..not 125 yet...
TSalexei
post Jun 29 2014, 10:04 AM

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QUOTE(serigala @ Jun 29 2014, 06:03 AM)
just page 21 only..not 125 yet...
*
LOL. What about you? Any recent biking adventures lately?
crappy123
post Jun 29 2014, 10:13 AM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Jun 25 2014, 10:06 PM)
mod fz blok + faito jack crank set + gearbox  + big valve head  ......

feel like wana layan highway balik .... motor std i duno how to ride adi ....
*
faito crank need change rod. the faito rod cannot use wan. get tkrj
rosmanpositivo
post Jul 1 2014, 12:23 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 25 2014, 09:57 PM)
welcome welcome... which state u from?
Hello. I stay in KL and Sunway.

After one week, both of my side mirrors already kena rembat, back in Cheras. I know LC is 'hotstuff' but side mirror also want to cilok? And they took the mirrors only and left the batang hahaha. Frustrating yet funny.
rosmanpositivo
post Jul 1 2014, 12:25 PM

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QUOTE(cahayamalamku @ Jun 27 2014, 07:46 PM)
2014 yamaha lc135 es including road tax, reg. no., insurance etc cash at RM7660.00 is it OK?
If you can afford to get by cash, do so. I took 'loan kedai' and I calculated the total amount I'm paying is 12K++, nearly 13K after 3.5 years. Damn capitalism huhuhu.
thianz
post Jul 1 2014, 08:23 PM

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QUOTE(rosmanpositivo @ Jul 1 2014, 12:25 PM)
If you can afford to get by cash, do so. I took 'loan kedai' and I calculated the total amount I'm paying is 12K++, nearly 13K after 3.5 years. Damn capitalism huhuhu.
*
d/p berapa ?
loan berapa lama ? 12 , 24 , 36 bulan ?
pinjam berapa ? bulanan berapa ??

how u calculate until 12k+++
Steroid-Lc135
post Jul 1 2014, 09:59 PM

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hello all bro i m newbie,wanna ask u all somthing can i still using my standard exhaust for my lc135 5speed after i change to x1r 65mm kit n 22/24 racing head but still using standard valve spring none racing one n uma hi cam so if i never change to racing exhaust will its cause any damage to any of my enjin parts in long term of use anyone try this b4.hope some expert can help n advise here TQ notworthy.gif my bike pic just wanna share with u guys


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
thianz
post Jul 1 2014, 10:35 PM

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QUOTE(Steroid-Lc135 @ Jul 1 2014, 09:59 PM)
hello all bro i m newbie,wanna ask u all somthing can i still using my standard exhaust for my lc135 5speed after i change to x1r 65mm kit n 22/24 racing head but still using standard valve spring none racing one n uma hi cam so if i never change to racing exhaust will its cause any damage to any of my enjin parts in long term of use anyone try this b4.hope some expert can help n advise here TQ notworthy.gif my bike pic just wanna share with u guys
*
motor anda xboleh bla .. kalau u din change more air flow exhaust ... racing exhaust or std exhaust operate ... probably will damage engine .. pls go change it .... how abt carb ? hmm.gif
Steroid-Lc135
post Jul 1 2014, 10:40 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Jul 1 2014, 10:35 PM)
motor anda xboleh bla .. kalau u din change more air flow exhaust ... racing exhaust  or std exhaust operate ... probably will damage engine .. pls go change it ....  how abt carb ?  hmm.gif
*
thk,will go change leo vince carbon,caburator i use kawa150 ori 28mm do u knw mj n pj for cab setting bro
serigala
post Jul 2 2014, 06:34 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 29 2014, 10:04 AM)
LOL. What about you? Any recent biking adventures lately?
*
so far nothing yet..bike need major maintenance( almost 60,000km after last major )
still collecting parts
cahayamalamku
post Jul 2 2014, 08:26 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 28 2014, 10:23 PM)
Price I am not familiar.
Alarm system is best to understand how it works, then install. Also, need to watch the installation.
If the installation just use wire cutter, sambung here and there, then use black tape... sorry, cannot accept. By normal standard, it must use proper connectors, soldered down, with heat shrink tubing, etc.

Alarm systems shouldn't kill battery faster. If it does, it probably isn't a good one.
I personally am not familiar with alarm options in the market, so can't advise much.
I'd recommend installing a hidden switch somewhere, as an immobilizer. Need basic wiring skills.
*
i think it is best for me not to installed then sad.gif the alarm is made in taiwan and got yamaha logo on its box. got 2 remotes (to lock and unlock like car's) etc they sell it at RM168 but if i buy lc135 from them, they will sell it to me at RM158 * 50% discount = RM79 only.
QUOTE(rosmanpositivo @ Jul 1 2014, 12:25 PM)
If you can afford to get by cash, do so. I took 'loan kedai' and I calculated the total amount I'm paying is 12K++, nearly 13K after 3.5 years. Damn capitalism huhuhu.
*
waiting for my loan to be approved first. will go for 'loan kedai' too if not approved... or maybe just repair back my 20-year-old ex5 for long distance travel cry.gif kl very jammed nowadays especially during ramadhan tongue.gif
QUOTE(Steroid-Lc135 @ Jul 1 2014, 09:59 PM)
hello all bro i m newbie,wanna ask u all somthing can i still using my standard exhaust for my lc135 5speed after i change to x1r 65mm kit n 22/24 racing head but still using standard valve spring none racing one n uma hi cam so if i never change to racing exhaust will its cause any damage to any of my enjin parts in long term of use anyone try this b4.hope some expert can help n advise here TQ notworthy.gif my bike pic just wanna share with u guys
*
simple question, what is that thing attached at the meter area? camera?
Attached Image
jern25
post Jul 2 2014, 08:37 AM

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QUOTE(rosmanpositivo @ Jul 1 2014, 12:25 PM)
If you can afford to get by cash, do so. I took 'loan kedai' and I calculated the total amount I'm paying is 12K++, nearly 13K after 3.5 years. Damn capitalism huhuhu.
*
how come very high? i also took loan kedai. d/p rm3.8k, monthly rm180 for 2 years. All in - RM8,120.

So interest that i paid is RM8,120 - RM6,800 = RM1,320 la (included roadtax,insurance and alarm installed)
TSalexei
post Jul 2 2014, 09:31 AM

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QUOTE(Steroid-Lc135 @ Jul 1 2014, 09:59 PM)
hello all bro i m newbie,wanna ask u all somthing can i still using my standard exhaust for my lc135 5speed after i change to x1r 65mm kit n 22/24 racing head but still using standard valve spring none racing one n uma hi cam so if i never change to racing exhaust will its cause any damage to any of my enjin parts in long term of use anyone try this b4.hope some expert can help n advise here TQ notworthy.gif my bike pic just wanna share with u guys
*
Hi newbie, Welcome to the club.

A friendly netiquette advice: Please use punctuation in your sentences. Respect the people whom you expect to read your post. If you keep this up, I would skip your post after the first line, and eventually ignore you. My 2sen.
Steroid-Lc135
post Jul 2 2014, 02:39 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jul 2 2014, 09:31 AM)
Hi newbie, Welcome to the club.

A friendly netiquette advice: Please use punctuation in your sentences. Respect the people whom you expect to read your post. If you keep this up, I would skip your post after the first line, and eventually ignore you. My 2sen.
*
Thanks,u mean no shortcut words sorry my English not good so not really understand what you mean by punctual sentence sorry

Steroid-Lc135
post Jul 2 2014, 02:46 PM

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QUOTE(cahayamalamku @ Jul 2 2014, 08:26 AM)
i think it is best for me not to installed then sad.gif the alarm is made in taiwan and got yamaha logo on its box. got 2 remotes (to lock and unlock like car's) etc they sell it at RM168 but if i buy lc135 from them, they will sell it to me at RM158 * 50% discount = RM79 only.

waiting for my loan to be approved first. will go for 'loan kedai' too if not approved... or maybe just repair back my 20-year-old ex5 for long distance travel cry.gif kl very jammed nowadays especially during ramadhan tongue.gif

simple question, what is that thing attached at the meter area? camera?
Attached Image
*
That's ERP scanner/machine use at Singapore to pay toll fee when entering city area and some express way to avoid summon.installed on my both bike
thianz
post Jul 2 2014, 04:04 PM

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QUOTE(Steroid-Lc135 @ Jul 1 2014, 10:40 PM)
thk,will go change leo vince carbon,caburator i use kawa150 ori 28mm do u knw mj n pj for cab setting bro
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saya rekoman u go find more air flow exhaust .. i see leo vience macam not enough big for ur 65mm ...... 28mm look like not enough for ur 65mm ..... so far ur mj , pj is how much ??? hmm.gif
Steroid-Lc135
post Jul 2 2014, 07:35 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Jul 2 2014, 04:04 PM)
saya rekoman u go find more air flow exhaust .. i see leo vience macam not enough big  for ur 65mm ......  28mm look like not enough for ur 65mm ..... so far ur mj , pj is how much ???  hmm.gif
*
mj pj i never check so don know,i only ask my friend install head & block for my both bike he don know setting caburator but my 2008 lc es using NSR SP caburator still using same jetting for 62mm previous block but work find very power too,exhaust also using cheap 1 buy at $120 only brand R1 type R.but my another lc 5speed a lot jerking and no power at all using kawa150 caburator.a lot forman said kawa150 caburator difficult to set take more time for setting,NSR sp caburator more easy thats why i try to ask you guys here because don wan waste money to buy new caburator,thianz can you tell me which brand exhaust more suit my bike modification type
serigala
post Jul 2 2014, 09:26 PM

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CJ ipoh 32mm gooding for 65mm

Steroid-Lc135
post Jul 2 2014, 11:14 PM

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QUOTE(serigala @ Jul 2 2014, 09:26 PM)
CJ ipoh 32mm gooding for 65mm
*
thks for the tips serigala i will try to find this CJ poh 32mm exhaust smile.gif
cahayamalamku
post Jul 3 2014, 08:24 AM

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rumors said that there will be lc150 to be released in indonesia soon? anyway, i am sticking to my plan and will get my lc135 on monday (07/07/2014). any advice/ recommended inspection upon collecting the bike later? thanks!
thianz
post Jul 3 2014, 03:30 PM

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QUOTE(cahayamalamku @ Jul 3 2014, 08:24 AM)
rumors said that there will be lc150 to be released in indonesia soon? anyway, i am sticking to my plan and will get my lc135 on monday (07/07/2014). any advice/ recommended inspection upon collecting the bike later? thanks!
*
aiya .... 150cc ..... plug and play fz 150 blok .. problem solved ....
lms2005
post Jul 3 2014, 09:38 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Jul 3 2014, 03:30 PM)
aiya .... 150cc ..... plug and play fz 150 blok .. problem solved ....
*
fz blok + fz cam + fz valve spring thumbup.gif
Steroid-Lc135
post Jul 4 2014, 07:31 PM

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any of the member here are frm JB?
Steroid-Lc135
post Jul 4 2014, 08:00 PM

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my old Lc icon_idea.gif


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cahayamalamku
post Jul 5 2014, 02:24 PM

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125. cahayamalamku KL | ES | July 2014

just got mine today but only ride it for 30km because it's around 12pm... very hot plus puasa.
learning to use manual clutch,
1. once, almost engine mati when traffic light turned to green doh.gif
2. once, i wanted to change to 4th gear but changed it to 2nd instead cry.gif
hopefully, 2-3 days more i will get used to it tongue.gif
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Steroid-Lc135
post Jul 5 2014, 10:11 PM

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QUOTE(cahayamalamku @ Jul 5 2014, 02:24 PM)
125. cahayamalamku KL | ES | July 2014

just got mine today but only ride it for 30km because it's around 12pm... very hot plus puasa.
learning to use manual clutch,
1. once, almost engine mati when traffic light turned to green doh.gif
2. once, i wanted to change to 4th gear but changed it to 2nd instead cry.gif
hopefully, 2-3 days more i will get used to it tongue.gif
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
nice new bike,after 1 week u will familiar with it me got the same probm too when started to ride my new 5s sweat.gif
lms2005
post Jul 6 2014, 07:31 PM

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QUOTE(Steroid-Lc135 @ Jul 5 2014, 10:11 PM)
nice new bike,after 1 week u will familiar with it me got the same probm too when started to ride my new 5s sweat.gif
*
me too... 1st to 2nd gear always go in free gear sweat.gif
thianz
post Jul 7 2014, 12:44 AM

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QUOTE(lms2005 @ Jul 6 2014, 07:31 PM)
me too... 1st to 2nd gear always go in free gear  sweat.gif
*
normal ppl will hard to get free gear ... u guy .. tukar gear sampai free gear ???? rclxub.gif rclxub.gif
TSalexei
post Jul 7 2014, 10:58 AM

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QUOTE(cahayamalamku @ Jul 5 2014, 02:24 PM)
125. cahayamalamku KL | ES | July 2014

just got mine today but only ride it for 30km because it's around 12pm... very hot plus puasa.
learning to use manual clutch,
1. once, almost engine mati when traffic light turned to green doh.gif
2. once, i wanted to change to 4th gear but changed it to 2nd instead cry.gif
hopefully, 2-3 days more i will get used to it tongue.gif
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
welcome!!!!
added user list and ride pic.
Steroid-Lc135
post Jul 8 2014, 10:17 PM

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today i already buy n install this Epower Berang exhaust for my lc 5speed 32mm standard look alike exhaust with removable silencer local made at rm180,sound so loud without silencer but power

This post has been edited by Steroid-Lc135: Jul 8 2014, 10:27 PM


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Steroid-Lc135
post Jul 8 2014, 10:32 PM

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removable silencer


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zkhin
post Jul 9 2014, 03:37 AM

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Guys. Can I buy led front light for previous lc v2 and use it on the latest lc?
koie06
post Jul 10 2014, 09:15 AM

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anybody know where can i buy original CDI BRT Powermax Dualband type RK?

survey at sentul but only have R(Imported by AG Industries)

This post has been edited by koie06: Jul 10 2014, 09:16 AM
cahayamalamku
post Jul 11 2014, 05:56 AM

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QUOTE(koie06 @ Jul 10 2014, 09:15 AM)
anybody know where can i buy original CDI BRT Powermax Dualband type RK?

survey at sentul but only have R(Imported by AG Industries)
*
if change to this cdi, will the top speed increase? i have not yet to test my lc top speed because it's ODO only < 300km but i did rev it once for full throttle about 1-2 seconds and the speed was only 115kmh
TSalexei
post Jul 11 2014, 04:41 PM

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QUOTE(zkhin @ Jul 9 2014, 03:37 AM)
Guys. Can I buy led front light for previous lc v2 and use it on the latest lc?
*
Not sure. Take a photo and bring to shop and ask?

QUOTE(cahayamalamku @ Jul 11 2014, 05:56 AM)
if change to this cdi, will the top speed increase? i have not yet to test my lc top speed because it's ODO only < 300km but i did rev it once for full throttle about 1-2 seconds and the speed was only 115kmh
*
Tune the stock parts nicely and you should hit 140km/h.
Are_keem
post Jul 12 2014, 03:42 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Jul 7 2014, 12:44 AM)
normal ppl will hard to get free gear  ... u guy .. tukar gear sampai free gear ????  rclxub.gif  rclxub.gif
*
can happen if ride slowly mah.. happened few times before with my previous RR.
that over-rev sound when you accidentally change to free gear from 1st gear at 5-6k RPM... sweat.gif sweat.gif
thianz
post Jul 13 2014, 10:28 AM

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QUOTE(Are_keem @ Jul 12 2014, 03:42 PM)
can happen if ride slowly mah.. happened few times before with my previous RR.
that over-rev sound when you accidentally change to free gear from 1st gear at 5-6k RPM...  sweat.gif  sweat.gif
*
previos RR ??? hmm.gif apa u ride skrg ???
cahayamalamku
post Jul 14 2014, 10:21 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jul 11 2014, 04:41 PM)
Tune the stock parts nicely and you should hit 140km/h.

you mean changing the sprocket size combinations? will do that when my sprocket 'finish' later sweat.gif currently i am enjoying 80-100km/h cruising ride only brows.gif my previous tank of ron95 lasted for more than 200km rclxms.gif
koie06
post Jul 14 2014, 03:28 PM

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QUOTE(cahayamalamku @ Jul 11 2014, 05:56 AM)
if change to this cdi, will the top speed increase? i have not yet to test my lc top speed because it's ODO only < 300km but i did rev it once for full throttle about 1-2 seconds and the speed was only 115kmh
*
i have bought BRT Powermax(Imported by AG Industries). cant find the RK version. hmm.gif

This post has been edited by koie06: Jul 14 2014, 03:55 PM
rosmanpositivo
post Jul 15 2014, 03:59 AM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Jul 1 2014, 08:23 PM)
d/p berapa ?
loan berapa lama ? 12 , 24 , 36 bulan ?
pinjam berapa ? bulanan berapa ?? 

how u calculate until 12k+++
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QUOTE(jern25 @ Jul 2 2014, 08:37 AM)
how come very high? i also took loan kedai. d/p rm3.8k, monthly rm180 for 2 years. All in - RM8,120.

So interest that i paid is RM8,120 - RM6,800 = RM1,320 la (included roadtax,insurance and alarm installed)
*
D/P: RM1.5K.
Monthly: RM270 x 42 months.
Whenever I tell this people will go like yawn.gif
TSalexei
post Jul 15 2014, 11:10 AM

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QUOTE(cahayamalamku @ Jul 14 2014, 10:21 AM)
you mean changing the sprocket size combinations? will do that when my sprocket 'finish' later sweat.gif currently i am enjoying 80-100km/h cruising ride only brows.gif my previous tank of ron95 lasted for more than 200km rclxms.gif
*
Haha, nice.
Not sure about change sprocket, but, if you want to try, use some formula on the engine RPM and gear ratio to determine the right sprocket so that the final gear is on over-drive (Engine RPM slower than gear RPM).

QUOTE(rosmanpositivo @ Jul 15 2014, 03:59 AM)
D/P: RM1.5K.
Monthly: RM270 x 42 months.
Whenever I tell this people will go like  yawn.gif
*
Monthly is 42 months, or 24 months? Better you confirm with the shop, otherwise you're being ripped off.
Yours is like plan 3 here: http://www.huatbingmotors.com.my/listing/y...135-es-5-speed/
dreamerf_14
post Jul 15 2014, 02:58 PM

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QUOTE(jern25 @ Jul 2 2014, 08:37 AM)
how come very high? i also took loan kedai. d/p rm3.8k, monthly rm180 for 2 years. All in - RM8,120.

So interest that i paid is RM8,120 - RM6,800 = RM1,320 la (included roadtax,insurance and alarm installed)
*
which shop? mind to share? no clutch right?
thianz
post Jul 15 2014, 03:09 PM

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QUOTE(rosmanpositivo @ Jul 15 2014, 03:59 AM)
D/P: RM1.5K.
Monthly: RM270 x 42 months.
Whenever I tell this people will go like  yawn.gif
*
gila mahal ... sila pergi survey kedai lain .....
crappy123
post Jul 16 2014, 12:45 AM

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try apitech cdi, can set graph. very powerful
jern25
post Jul 16 2014, 12:12 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jul 15 2014, 11:10 AM)
Monthly is 42 months, or 24 months? Better you confirm with the shop, otherwise you're being ripped off.
Yours is like plan 3 here: http://www.huatbingmotors.com.my/listing/y...135-es-5-speed/
*
i dont think its 24 months. if not it will be cheaper. hehe
koie06
post Jul 16 2014, 12:36 PM

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i got mine for:

d/p: RM1800
Monthly: RM322
Duration: 24month


nabelon
post Jul 17 2014, 03:05 PM

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Hi there. Gonna pick up my lc later this evening. Any recommended tips on taking care of the bike ? Havent ride in 6 years.
thianz
post Jul 17 2014, 09:51 PM

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QUOTE(nabelon @ Jul 17 2014, 03:05 PM)
Hi there. Gonna pick up my lc later this evening. Any recommended tips on taking care of the bike ? Havent ride in 6 years.
*
ride like normal ... pickup relax .. dun ride like mad ppl .... brows.gif
koie06
post Jul 18 2014, 10:07 AM

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After doing some engine upgrading i notice my bike clutch is slipping very badly. Any recommended what to do?

-Change Clutch Spring(What Brand?)
-Change to 5 or 6 Spring clutch housing?

LC ES 5Speed share clutch spring with which yamaha bike?
serigala
post Jul 18 2014, 10:11 AM

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QUOTE(koie06 @ Jul 18 2014, 10:07 AM)
After doing some engine upgrading i notice my bike clutch is slipping very badly. Any recommended what to do?

-Change Clutch Spring(What Brand?)
-Change to 5 or 6 Spring clutch housing?

LC ES 5Speed share clutch spring with which yamaha bike?
*
Uma Racing 5 spring..good quality..

TSalexei
post Jul 18 2014, 12:42 PM

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QUOTE(koie06 @ Jul 18 2014, 10:07 AM)
After doing some engine upgrading i notice my bike clutch is slipping very badly. Any recommended what to do?

-Change Clutch Spring(What Brand?)
-Change to 5 or 6 Spring clutch housing?

LC ES 5Speed share clutch spring with which yamaha bike?
*
What riding condition causes that to happen? Sound like incredible mod.
koie06
post Jul 18 2014, 04:33 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jul 18 2014, 12:42 PM)
What riding condition causes that to happen? Sound like incredible mod.
*
it happen when:-
-Quickly change gear, happen on every gear
-When suddenly want to speed up(full throttle) after maintaining at 120kmh(Engine rev increase but speed stationery)
-When riding with pillion

is it sufficient to just change to racing spring or i really need 5 @ 6 spring clutch housing?

no incredible mod la..still can use electric starter.. biggrin.gif biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by koie06: Jul 18 2014, 04:37 PM
thianz
post Jul 18 2014, 04:59 PM

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QUOTE(koie06 @ Jul 18 2014, 04:33 PM)
it happen when:-
-Quickly change gear, happen on every gear
-When suddenly want to speed up(full throttle) after maintaining at 120kmh(Engine rev increase but speed stationery)
-When riding with pillion

is it sufficient to just change to racing spring or i really need 5 @ 6 spring clutch housing?

no incredible mod la..still can use electric starter.. biggrin.gif  biggrin.gif
*
biasa-la ... shift gear cepat cepat .... clutch haus ..... beli original yamaha clutch plate jer ....
some sell in piece by piece .. some sell in one set .. 4 or 5 slide ... got 1 slide dia kecil sikit ....dari lain ... u buy all besar 1 .. brows.gif
koie06
post Jul 18 2014, 08:16 PM

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my bike is just 3month old...this problem is due to my upgrade...maybe stock clutch spring cannot withstand the torque...its time to upgrade clutch part i guess...

replacing the small clutch plate to standard size, whats the pros & cons?

This post has been edited by koie06: Jul 18 2014, 08:20 PM
serigala
post Jul 18 2014, 09:00 PM

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QUOTE(koie06 @ Jul 18 2014, 08:16 PM)
my bike is just 3month old...this problem is due to my upgrade...maybe stock clutch spring cannot withstand the torque...its time to upgrade clutch part i guess...

replacing the small clutch plate to standard size, whats the pros & cons?
*
try change just the spring 1st..

koie06
post Jul 22 2014, 08:47 AM

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has change the spring. problem solved. thumbup.gif


lms2005
post Jul 22 2014, 02:24 PM

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LC5S, found oil stains here. after cleanup still appear... anyone experience this?

ignore the clutch spring stain.. i spray chain oil on it sweat.gif
dreamerf_14
post Jul 22 2014, 02:47 PM

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QUOTE(nabelon @ Jul 17 2014, 03:05 PM)
Hi there. Gonna pick up my lc later this evening. Any recommended tips on taking care of the bike ? Havent ride in 6 years.
*
how's your new bike? i'm collecting mine later.. rclxm9.gif
koie06
post Jul 23 2014, 09:19 AM

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Anybody has mod LC 5S and topspeed able to reach over 160kmh?

i've mod mine but only can get around 14+kmh. tested around 1km only.

This post has been edited by koie06: Jul 23 2014, 09:20 AM
TSalexei
post Jul 23 2014, 11:34 AM

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QUOTE(koie06 @ Jul 23 2014, 09:19 AM)
Anybody has mod LC 5S and topspeed able to reach over 160kmh?

i've mod mine but only can get around 14+kmh. tested around 1km only.
*
What you mod?
GPS speed or meter?
koie06
post Jul 23 2014, 12:16 PM

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LC meter = 140kmh
Duke 390 = 145kmh

mod:-
-63mm Block
-22/19 Head
-BRT CDI
-UMA 30mm
-Hi-Cam
-Exhaust CJ MB 28mm
-Sprocket 14-35(Rider 60kg)


cahayamalamku
post Jul 23 2014, 01:49 PM

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QUOTE(koie06 @ Jul 23 2014, 12:16 PM)
LC meter = 140kmh
Duke 390 = 145kmh

mod:-
-63mm Block
-22/19 Head
-BRT CDI
-UMA 30mm
-Hi-Cam
-Exhaust CJ MB 28mm
-Sprocket 14-35(Rider 60kg)
*
3 months old already mod engine? how much for all these mods?
koie06
post Jul 23 2014, 02:15 PM

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just top set bro..hehe..engine internal still stock.

Around RM2.4k for part and machinery. P&P, Installation, Setting by me and my brother.haha..

will do compression test tonight, hopefully above 200kpa.

bizzy123
post Jul 26 2014, 12:32 AM

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Heelllllooooo Alexiii ^o^ bizzy is backkkkkk! XD Ei why went missing on Facebook can't contact u leh... Sept u kat Penang or not? Probably getting a 2 stroke on Sept need ur advise hehehe
TSalexei
post Jul 26 2014, 04:52 PM

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QUOTE(bizzy123 @ Jul 26 2014, 12:32 AM)
Heelllllooooo Alexiii ^o^ bizzy is backkkkkk! XD Ei why went missing on Facebook can't contact u leh... Sept u kat Penang or not? Probably getting a 2 stroke on Sept need ur advise hehehe
*
hello friend... can can, come find me. PM me here also can.
Rascal Stitch
post Jul 28 2014, 11:50 AM

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QUOTE(lms2005 @ Jul 3 2014, 10:38 PM)
fz blok + fz cam + fz valve spring  thumbup.gif
*
brows.gif brows.gif
wen wanna go riding wit me...?
brows.gif brows.gif
lms2005
post Jul 28 2014, 05:34 PM

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QUOTE(Rascal Stitch @ Jul 28 2014, 11:50 AM)
brows.gif  brows.gif
wen wanna go riding wit me...?
brows.gif  brows.gif
*
Mine kapzai only, 1st gear i only see ur smoke...
Rascal Stitch
post Jul 29 2014, 08:47 PM

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QUOTE(lms2005 @ Jul 28 2014, 06:34 PM)
Mine kapzai only, 1st gear i only see ur smoke...
*

erally a not...?
sama sama pakai motor kapchai mia~ laugh.gif laugh.gif
febreze2xxx
post Jul 31 2014, 07:50 PM

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Hi there. Currently my bike have some sort of losing power like loose clutch on gear or sudden lost of power when riding at cruising speed 100km above. Is it auto clutch problem? I already change to ikr (not sure the brand) cdi since the mechanic say it is the ori cdi cut off. My bike is 2 years old but already travel 30k km.
thianz
post Jul 31 2014, 09:02 PM

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QUOTE(febreze2xxx @ Jul 31 2014, 07:50 PM)
Hi there. Currently my bike have some sort of losing power like loose clutch on gear or sudden lost of power when riding at cruising speed 100km above. Is it auto clutch problem? I already change to ikr (not sure the brand) cdi since the mechanic say it is the ori cdi cut off. My bike is 2 years old but already travel 30k km.
*
mean u pusing more minyak ... bike xboleh bla ???

how long u din maintain ur bike adi ???
febreze2xxx
post Aug 1 2014, 07:23 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Jul 31 2014, 09:02 PM)
mean u pusing more minyak ... bike xboleh bla ???  

how long u din maintain ur bike adi ???
*
Bike running well but can feel some kind of pausing during 100km or above like something choking the carburettor (already clean the carburettor).

Normal maintenance. Every 3k will change the oil filter and engine oil(15w-40 or 10w-40). Every 6k will change the Plug. Every 1 year change the air filter. Sprocket and chain usually last me for 8 months before change. Is this anything to do with the air filter? After the last cleaning the problem start to arise but already open and change to k&n high air flow air filter but the problem still persist. hmm.gif

This post has been edited by febreze2xxx: Aug 1 2014, 07:28 PM
TSalexei
post Aug 5 2014, 07:22 AM

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QUOTE(febreze2xxx @ Aug 1 2014, 07:23 PM)
Bike running well but can feel some kind of pausing during 100km or above like something choking the carburettor (already clean the carburettor).

Normal maintenance. Every 3k will change the oil filter and engine oil(15w-40 or 10w-40). Every 6k will change the Plug. Every 1 year change the air filter. Sprocket and chain usually last me for 8 months before change. Is this anything to do with the air filter? After the last cleaning the problem start to arise but already open and change to k&n high air flow air filter but the problem still persist. hmm.gif
*
Very decently maintained. Better use 15W-40, higher film strength than 10W-40.
Which version of the carb is yours using? VM or BS carb? I worry is the BS carb, that the diaphragm may start to have problem.
But, if it's the VM carb, let me ask more questions:
- is it like throttle choke when you increase throttle?
- or, is it like engine jerk when you keep the same throttle, while the bike accelerates steadily, and suddenly it happens?
tangenttheta
post Aug 6 2014, 02:31 AM

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hi im new to motorbike here~ wanna to ask about 135 LC.
im attracted to its fancy exterior which is so stylish and elegant. wanna to ask which generation of LC is better? 1st gen/ 2nd gen/ 3rd gen, heard my fren told me about the bike from thailand is having the best quality so far, is it true? but it has been discontinued. im planning to buy a 2nd hand 135 LC which is just a few years(2-5 years old) any suggestion which things i have to ask/ queery from the seller before i proceed with buying it? i like the red colored 135 and the owner who wish to let go maybe can reply to my thread here. very much appreciated. =)
TSalexei
post Aug 6 2014, 01:20 PM

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tangentthetaWelcome to the forum. Buy from a reputable shop that gives warranty for used bikes. Bring a friend who owns a bike together with you. If you know how, ask and check for accident and saman history. The sellers are not required to be honest. Google some tips online on purchasing used bikes...
febreze2xxx
post Aug 6 2014, 08:33 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Aug 5 2014, 07:22 AM)
Very decently maintained. Better use 15W-40, higher film strength than 10W-40.
Which version of the carb is yours using? VM or BS carb? I worry is the BS carb, that the diaphragm may start to have problem.
But, if it's the VM carb, let me ask more questions:
- is it like throttle choke when you increase throttle?
- or, is it like engine jerk when you keep the same throttle, while the bike accelerates steadily, and suddenly it happens?
*
Feels like the second one engine jerk when the throttle at the same position. Carb still the original one. using LC 135 V2.
cahayamalamku
post Aug 6 2014, 11:58 PM

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simple question:
i found out that my lc very hard to start if i leave if for more than 2 days. need to pull the choke and start > then start it without choke pulled. repeat the steps for 4-5 times only then the engine can start. i leave my 20 year old ex5 like more than 3 weeks but i can start it with 1 attempt without the need of using the choke at all. my ex5 battery and plug are more than 3 years old already...
TSalexei
post Aug 7 2014, 06:10 PM

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QUOTE(cahayamalamku @ Aug 6 2014, 11:58 PM)
simple question:
i found out that my lc very hard to start if i leave if for more than 2 days. need to pull the choke and start > then start it without choke pulled. repeat the steps for 4-5 times only then the engine can start. i leave my 20 year old ex5 like more than 3 weeks but i can start it with 1 attempt without the need of using the choke at all. my ex5 battery and plug are more than 3 years old already...
*
The EX5 mia FC good or bad? when pulas kuat, got asap hitam or not?

A well jetted carb is supposed to be harder to start when it is cold.
When you pull the choke, it will draw more fuel to get it started by burning rich. After warm up liao, then the engine will run smooth. Otherwise, maybe the carb dried up already.

Sometimes, poorly maintained bikes start easy for the wrong reasons.

For my RGV, when it was maintained well, every morning I need to pull the choke, just a bit to rich the fuel. It will run slowly to warm up... and slowly close the choke. Once warmed up, it can fly. FC is 180km per 5 liter and 280km on highway, better than all 4 stroke kapcai except FZ... tsk tsk tsk... Compared to other RGV, morning start one kick, but asap banyak, one tank highway jalan baru 120km.

Hope this explains a bit.
TSalexei
post Aug 7 2014, 06:13 PM

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QUOTE(febreze2xxx @ Aug 6 2014, 08:33 PM)
Feels like the second one engine jerk when the throttle at the same position. Carb still the original one. using LC 135 V2.
*
I think the diaphragm on the BS carb needs to be checked.

A reason I think of, is when the speed increases, the diaphragm supposed to go up like opening throttle. But, instead, it probably juddered and caused a choke at a certain engine RPM.

Otherwise, if it does not cause too much trouble to you, you can safely ignore it.
cahayamalamku
post Aug 7 2014, 07:47 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Aug 7 2014, 06:10 PM)
The EX5 mia FC good or bad? when pulas kuat, got asap hitam or not?

A well jetted carb is supposed to be harder to start when it is cold.
When you pull the choke, it will draw more fuel to get it started by burning rich. After warm up liao, then the engine will run smooth. Otherwise, maybe the carb dried up already.

Sometimes, poorly maintained bikes start easy for the wrong reasons.

For my RGV, when it was maintained well, every morning I need to pull the choke, just a bit to rich the fuel. It will run slowly to warm up... and slowly close the choke. Once warmed up, it can fly. FC is 180km per 5 liter and 280km on highway, better than all 4 stroke kapcai except FZ... tsk tsk tsk... Compared to other RGV, morning start one kick, but asap banyak, one tank highway jalan baru 120km.

Hope this explains a bit.
*
ok i thought my lc got problem... lol rclxub.gif
lms2005
post Aug 7 2014, 09:14 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Aug 7 2014, 06:10 PM)
The EX5 mia FC good or bad? when pulas kuat, got asap hitam or not?

A well jetted carb is supposed to be harder to start when it is cold.
When you pull the choke, it will draw more fuel to get it started by burning rich. After warm up liao, then the engine will run smooth. Otherwise, maybe the carb dried up already.

Sometimes, poorly maintained bikes start easy for the wrong reasons.

For my RGV, when it was maintained well, every morning I need to pull the choke, just a bit to rich the fuel. It will run slowly to warm up... and slowly close the choke. Once warmed up, it can fly. FC is 180km per 5 liter and 280km on highway, better than all 4 stroke kapcai except FZ... tsk tsk tsk... Compared to other RGV, morning start one kick, but asap banyak, one tank highway jalan baru 120km.

Hope this explains a bit.
*
My lc only can get 150km per full tank only... cry.gif
febreze2xxx
post Aug 8 2014, 08:21 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Aug 7 2014, 06:13 PM)
I think the diaphragm on the BS carb needs to be checked.

A reason I think of, is when the speed increases, the diaphragm supposed to go up like opening throttle. But, instead, it probably juddered and caused a choke at a certain engine RPM.

Otherwise, if it does not cause too much trouble to you, you can safely ignore it.
*
I see. Is there any recommendation shop around gombak? I do ask the mechanic nearby my area to clean my carb but did not notice this problem. icon_question.gif
cahayamalamku
post Aug 15 2014, 09:25 AM

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hi guys! my current ODO is around 1,500km.
QUOTE
1st: 2.833; 2nd: 1.875; 3rd: 1.429; 4th: 1.167; 5th: 0.963

i would like to ask a question, is it normal while riding slowly (speed around 30-50kmh)...
- if use 3rd gear, i feel a little vibration at foot during acceleration/ deceleration
- if use 4th gear, no vibration (normal) and no problem even the speed < 30kmh
end up, i rarely hold at 3rd gear, that's mean either 4th or 2nd when it's really slow.
thanks in advance for any feedback smile.gif


thianz
post Aug 15 2014, 06:26 PM

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QUOTE(cahayamalamku @ Aug 15 2014, 09:25 AM)
hi guys! my current ODO is around 1,500km.

i would like to ask a question, is it normal while riding slowly (speed around 30-50kmh)...
- if use 3rd gear, i feel a little vibration at foot during acceleration/ deceleration
- if use 4th gear, no vibration (normal) and no problem even the speed < 30kmh
end up, i rarely hold at 3rd gear, that's mean either 4th or 2nd when it's really slow.
thanks in advance for any feedback smile.gif
*
<30 ... pakai la gear 2 atau 3 ..... nanti abis lu mia clutch plate sweat.gif
Rascal Stitch
post Aug 17 2014, 10:42 AM

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QUOTE(lms2005 @ Aug 7 2014, 10:14 PM)
My lc only can get 150km per full tank only... cry.gif
*

ur engine oil got over filled wor...?
mine over a bit than gave me bad fc edi~
got time need to go over my fren's shop to suck up d etra oil to lighten my lc to achive back 200km per tank~
thianz
post Aug 17 2014, 11:44 AM

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QUOTE(Rascal Stitch @ Aug 17 2014, 10:42 AM)
ur engine oil got over filled wor...?
mine over a bit than gave me bad fc edi~
got time need to go over my fren's shop to suck up d etra oil to lighten my lc to achive back 200km per tank~
*
tuang abes 1L jer ..... brows.gif brows.gif brows.gif
lms2005
post Aug 17 2014, 12:00 PM

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QUOTE(Rascal Stitch @ Aug 17 2014, 10:42 AM)
ur engine oil got over filled wor...?
mine over a bit than gave me bad fc edi~
got time need to go over my fren's shop to suck up d etra oil to lighten my lc to achive back 200km per tank~
*
200km? shocking.gif

how fast u travel? 40km/h? rclxub.gif
hollowsxd
post Aug 17 2014, 02:04 PM

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sup, newbie here, wanted to buy a bike, got some recommendation around klang area ? thanks
Rascal Stitch
post Aug 17 2014, 10:37 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Aug 17 2014, 12:44 PM)
tuang abes 1L jer .....  brows.gif  brows.gif  brows.gif
*

1L confirm die lor~
normally i put ard 800ml edi at max line edi~


QUOTE(lms2005 @ Aug 17 2014, 01:00 PM)
200km?  shocking.gif

how fast u travel? 40km/h? rclxub.gif
*

averagely70-90km/h wen i to work at Lim Tayar taman tun~
but wen i to top speed once a while it goes down to 180-160kms per tank~ icon_rolleyes.gif

thianz
post Aug 17 2014, 10:51 PM

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QUOTE(Rascal Stitch @ Aug 17 2014, 10:37 PM)
1L confirm die lor~
normally i put ard 800ml edi at max line edi~
averagely70-90km/h wen i to work at Lim Tayar taman tun~
but wen i to top speed once a while it goes down to 180-160kms per tank~  icon_rolleyes.gif
*
800ml max line ? u sure boh ... try start engine thn check again ......

1 pour 1L also no feeling berat pun .... brows.gif brows.gif
Rascal Stitch
post Aug 17 2014, 11:56 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Aug 17 2014, 11:51 PM)
800ml max line ? u sure boh ... try start engine thn check again ...... 

1 pour 1L also no feeling berat pun ....  brows.gif  brows.gif
*
if i leave my bike over nite n let it dripped to d last drop will take ard 900ml
but normally i do it fast n only takes 800-850 only~

thianz
post Aug 18 2014, 08:46 PM

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QUOTE(Rascal Stitch @ Aug 17 2014, 11:56 PM)
if i leave my bike over nite n let it dripped to d last drop will take ard 900ml
but normally i do it fast n only takes 800-850 only~
*
pakai EO ringan .... 1L wont feel at all brows.gif
Rascal Stitch
post Aug 18 2014, 11:45 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Aug 18 2014, 09:46 PM)
pakai EO ringan .... 1L wont feel at all  brows.gif
*

dun like too light cuz wen i high revingvery noisy~

thianz
post Aug 19 2014, 04:43 PM

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QUOTE(Rascal Stitch @ Aug 18 2014, 11:45 PM)
dun like too light cuz wen i high revingvery noisy~
*
thn pakai 20-50 .... pekat ... sedap ....
NewGUY
post Aug 19 2014, 04:55 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Aug 19 2014, 04:43 PM)
thn pakai 20-50 .... pekat ... sedap ....
*
would be 10w 50 or 15w 50 for mod bike

20w 50 too thick...
std blok as in LC or FZ, apa minyak pun ok, use for 5k tukar also ok, manual say is 2k la

Modded big blok for cap burung,for lasting change EO best at 1k, not more than 1.5k

thanks to Tim shark blok, this yr overhaul 3x...and of cos too long change EO

now with UMA, today oni run almost 1.2k km.... thumbup.gif thumbup.gif
thianz
post Aug 19 2014, 05:03 PM

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QUOTE(NewGUY @ Aug 19 2014, 04:55 PM)
would be 10w 50 or 15w 50 for mod bike

20w 50 too thick...
std blok as in LC or FZ, apa minyak pun ok, use for 5k tukar also ok, manual say is 2k la

Modded big blok for cap burung,for lasting change EO best at 1k, not more than 1.5k

thanks to Tim shark blok, this yr overhaul 3x...and of cos too long change EO

now with UMA, today oni run almost 1.2k km.... thumbup.gif  thumbup.gif
*
blok sudah masak la .. 1.2k km ..... icon_rolleyes.gif
NewGUY
post Aug 19 2014, 05:39 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Aug 19 2014, 05:03 PM)
blok sudah masak la .. 1.2k km .....  icon_rolleyes.gif
*
shud be,

now change rear tire to 80/90 as really x dare to go faster with 70/90

today also send to service fork, change oil, oil seal, piston and etc

change EO and OF

n also change starter, starter 80k km also cant tahan with big bore....

plug in UMA reinforced starter..... icon_idea.gif icon_idea.gif

now whole big all use UMA product..... brows.gif brows.gif



TSalexei
post Aug 19 2014, 06:30 PM

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Best oil for viscosity and film strength is 15W-40.

cahayamalamkuGet it checked at HL under warranty?
thianz
post Aug 19 2014, 06:31 PM

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QUOTE(NewGUY @ Aug 19 2014, 05:39 PM)
shud be,

now change rear tire to 80/90 as really x dare to go faster with 70/90

today also send to service fork, change oil, oil seal, piston and etc

change EO and OF

n also change starter, starter 80k km also cant tahan with big bore....

plug in UMA reinforced starter..... icon_idea.gif  icon_idea.gif

now whole big all use UMA product..... brows.gif  brows.gif
*
bila mau masuk uma super heaad ??? thn can become maju motor R&D bike liao .... laugh.gif brows.gif
Rascal Stitch
post Aug 20 2014, 08:31 AM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Aug 19 2014, 05:43 PM)
thn pakai 20-50 .... pekat ... sedap ....
*
i use either 15w50 or 20w40 for my bike's best performance~
my eo lasted me ard 1.4k km then start not nice o ride d~

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