how you guys know the coolant temp.? got meter in the panel showing that?
so, you guys drive EB CFE <90km/h when you 1st get the car? For how long? 1 week?
hhmmm...i'm kinda not so comfortable with 90km/h only..usually my average 120km/h...huhuhuh ;p

I posted this on the Saga thread after receiving Kristof's reply on a couple of questions about the CVT


On the issue of CVT coasting in N. Bolded parts were my questions, the regular text is Kristof's answer, red text is my comment.

We use ELM327 Bluetooth OBD reader. I bought it here

taqu,
the device looks cool..is it really worth to spend RM75 for that? What's the main function of it actually? What else it benefits us? Is it really benefit us?

Last but not least, any reply to my previous query:-
so, you guys drive EB CFE <90km/h when you 1st get the car? For how long? 1 week?

I already drove my EB to 170kmh in less a week

I'm in a school of thought of running-in new engine as normal drive, the theory is that new piston rings may never be seated tightly against cylinder walls if new engines are driven like granny. Just drive as usual.

I bought the OBD reader bcoz:
1. It's cool to be able to see my car's internal data
2. Can check engine problems in future eg straight away can know if any sensor is dead
3. Can do my own dyno from speed & RPM data

For me RM75 for the devices is good already... you can monitor the real parameter value of your car... vacum & boost value, intake temp, coolant temp etc...
so, no need for you to install those fancy defi meters on the dashboard (we are low profile type) hehe...

It will benefits us if you know what are you looking at... basically it will help us to learn more about our car capabilities & characters.

bro taqu is more advance in this OBDII thingy...


FYI, I drive below 3000rpm for the 1st 1000km, now sometime go to 4000rpm (mileage now around 2500km) .

Cheers!

My EBP, FC is around 12.7km/L. I tried to drive around 80KM speed and keep the RPM around 2. But at times I noticed I reach 100Km even with a light press. This I like about EBP

I just send my car for service. They found the tyre pressure was too high around 40, so they had to reduce to 34. Now I notice the allingment lari. The car is swaying to left now. I had to keep the steering a bit right to keep my car going straight . I had to visit the SC again.

Regarding the rocking driver seat. They said it is normal. I had ask them to check with the HQ

yup, coolant temperature shud not be less than 82 degree, n not more than 88 degree during drive. The optimum engine temperature for cfe is around 85 degree, so, coolant shud be +- 3 around that temperature. So taqu n familyman, ur cooling is efficient.

Tyre pressure is also important coz its also will effect ur fc whether over@underinflated. Check the manual at ur doors, the correct one for bold, 205/55 r 16. If just driving 5 persons or less, diff pressure, full load of 7 also diff, front n back tyres also diff. Please take note.

About changing of engine head, just being informed, not many are effected, just some are actually need to open the head to access to one way valve problem, not changing the head coz overheating. Previously, upon vendor inpection, the mentioned the assembly line over tightening the valve, but prtn still checking whether the part supply by vendor(more than acceptable tolerance; do not means all) is the problem. Its not easy though coz they need thorough investigation n evidences to put full blame to vendor. Only matter of time. Dont think prtn want to fulfill their service centre with ocv valve problem cars coz it will interrupt the service operation.

It wont damage ur engine, is that when oil is not retain, it will sound coarse during start, n vvt wont be operating efficiently without oil retain. Thats why it will also effect ur fc when even driving below 2k rpm coz u r depending on vvt to provide low end torque n saving the fuel.

this is the stereng bush problem.. u send to the SC many times also will not solve it.. they will change it with the oem, original, but still it will happened again. mine changed 2 times.. but still the got problem.. the only way is to use silicon, but sure will void warranty.. this is the SC advisor told me.. so, just wait and wait

haha...this happens to all new gen proton ..even perodua also started to do it
the problem isn't the front...the problem is the rear
the rear came at an angle(i dunno how to say) and its suppose to improve the handling
thats why in some preve video..lot of ppl comment "kereta baru alignment dah lari"...actually its not
becuz the car is front wheel drive, the rear is fixed...cannot adjust
the only way to make it straight is to insert "spacer" into the rear there.....of all the alignment sifu, only a handful know how to do it...literally handful only(hard to find)

put spacer will gegar lor when do high speed..

nope....the spacer is place in between something
and which part gegar are u referring to?..steering?
if steering gegar when high speed mean balancing problem..not alignment

the back will gegar a bit. by the way, not the alignment lari, the alignment is good, but the stereng. exmple: after u make a u turn to the left, the stereng will tend to move to the left.. but the alignment is still straight.. nak explain pon susah.. kalau tunjuk lagi senang. huhu

ya i know
and no i'm not referring to alignment actually
its actually not a problem to start with becuz it came like that...when it came from the factory, its already like that
like i said be4...its actually for better handling
u send back to SC also cannot fix becuz its fixed...cannot adjust
i know becuz since saga BLM...this problem started to exist already(not sure be4 that have or not)...its not a problem, its just annoying only
and it can be fix by placing spacer *IF u want to fix it*
heck even perodua started this to improve their handling already since their car so suck in handling...thats why u can see myvi and alza have this problem even its brand new
this problem though...won't exist if your car is rear wheel drive...cuz it can be easily adjust

Latest home-made dyno graph :



In short, wide torque curve, almost as Proton claimed. At 2240RPM, there's already 80% max torque available. 123whp @5085 RPM also looks good for a 1.6 engine.

This post has been edited by taqu: May 15 2012, 11:40 AM

nice bro taqu... hehe

am trying to find a bluetooth obd that is small.. my current one is big and feels like it is sticking out too much the link that u gave i think is the same size as my current one.

Hi, my reverse camera image on the mirror sometimes doesn't turn up, sometimes flick, sometimes blur, do you have this symptom?

Nope, mine working fine
A few owner at EOCM also have the same problem, you send to SC and they will change or tighten the connector.

Hi neo1point3,
Checking with you, how's your EB as of now? How long already you've been using it? What's the top speed you've reached as of now? Any major/minor problem that should look for especially for those who is going to get the new EB soon?
Appreciate your sharing...

Thanks.