Common Kelvin White Balance Settings : 2500K - very strong orange tungsten light 2800K - strong orange tungsten light 3200K - yellowish tungsten light 4500K M6 - flourescent light (most flourescent tubes are green even though our eyes don't see it) 5500K - flash 6500K - daylight (or daylight-balanced flourescent light) 9900K - strong blue stage lighting or evening light
Xenon lighting is rare but that should be between 7000-9000K.
Whenever you enter a new situation that has different WB, just set your Kelvin WB again and test with one shot. You
should be able to do this with practice.
With the Sony A300 and A350, you can use Live View and see the effect of changing Kelvin WB... live!
M = Magenta G = Green 2500K = Blue 9900K = Amber
Take a picture. Supposing the picture is very Green, you need to add the opposite which is Magenta. If the picture is
too Blue you need to go closer to Amber. So if the picture is very blue-green-ish, you will need to go closer to 9900K
M9.
To prevent the built-in flash from appearing in pictures when in wireless flash mode, you can use any of these
methods, or a combination of them:
- use a darker aperture (e.g. F11) - use a lower ISO (e.g. ISO100) - use a shutter speed faster than your flash sync speed so that High Speed Sync is activated (e.g. 1/320th of a
second) - use a piece of exposed, developed negative film in front of your pop-up flash
Alpha street pricelist ***updated 13th January 2010***
Camera --------- Sony A200 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM15xx - Discontinued Sony A200 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT + 75-300mm F4.5-5.6 = RM18xx - Discontinued Sony A230 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM17xx Sony A300 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM18xx - Discontinued Sony A300 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT + 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT = RM22xx - Discontinued Sony A330 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM20xx Sony A350 body only = RM20xx - Discontinued Sony A350 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM23xx - Discontinued Sony A350 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT + 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT = RM26xx - Discontinued Sony A380 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM21xx Sony A380 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM + 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT SAM = RM24xx Sony A700 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM33xx Sony A550 body only = RM26xx Sony A500 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM + 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT SAM = RM3250 (NEW) Sony A550 + 18-250mm F3.5-6.3 DT = RM40xx (NEW) Sony A850 body only = RM61xx Sony A900 body only = RM73xx (Studio Zaloon)
The following suffixes identify what lens comes with the camera body:
G = Sony 18-200mm F3.5-6.3 DT K = Sony 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT L = Sony 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM P = Sony 16-105mm F3.5-5.6 DT Q = Sony 28-75mm F2.8 SAM W = Sony 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT + Sony 75-300mm F4.5-5.6 X = Sony 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT + Sony 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT Y = Sony 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM + Sony 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT (2) SAM Z = Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 16-80mm F3.5-4.5 DT ZA
Battery Grip -------------- Sony VG-B30AM for A200/A300/A350 = RM6xx Sony VG-C70AM battery grip for A700 = RM9xx Sony VG-C90AM for A900 = RM9xx
Flash ------ Sony HVL-F20AM = RM4xx Sony HVL-F42AM = RM7xx Sony HVL-F58AM = RM11xx
New APS-C / DT Crop Lenses -------------------------------
Sony 11-18mm F4.5-5.6 DT = RM20xx Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 16-80mm F3.5-4.5 DT ZA = RM25xx Sony 16-105mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM16xx Sony 18-250mm F3.5-6.3 DT = RM16xx Sony 30mm F2.8 DT SAM Macro = RM7xx (NEW) Sony 50mm F1.8 DT SAM = RM5xx Sigma 50-150mm F2.8 EX DC HSM Macro = RM30xx
New Full-Frame Lenses ---------------------------
Sony 16mm F2.8 Diagonal Fisheye = RM25xx Sony 20mm F2.8 = RM19xx Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 16-35mm F2.8 SSM ZA = RM54xx Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 24-70mm F2.8 SSM ZA = RM54xx Sony 24-105mm F3.5-4.5 = RM18xx Sony 28mm F2.8 = RM8xx Sony 28-75mm F2.8 SAM = RM26xx (NEW) Sony 35mm F1.4G = RM45xx Sony 50mm F1.4 = RM10xx Sony 50mm F2.8 Macro = RM14xx Tamron 70-200mm F2.8 Macro = RM30xx Sigma 70-200mm F2.8 EX DG HSM Macro = RM38xx Sony 70-200mm F2.8G SSM = RM54xx Sony 70-300mm F4.5-5.6G SSM = RM25xx Sony 70-400mm F4-5.6G SSM = RM54xx Sony Carl Zeiss Planar T* 85mm F1.4 ZA = RM50xx Sony 100mm F2.8 Macro = RM23xx Sony Carl Zeiss Sonnar T* 135mm F1.8 ZA = RM48xx Sony 135mm F2.8/T4.5 Smooth Transition Focus = RM36xx Sony 500mm F8.0 AF Reflex = RM25xx Sony 300mm F2.8G SSM = RM20xxx Sony 1.4x Teleconverter = RM15xx Sony 2.0x Teleconverter = RM15xx
This post has been edited by amadeo: Jan 13 2010, 09:27 PM
Q : I have asked this before but no one is answering, so here I go again :-). If my subject is moving towards my camera, what should I do to get a sharp focus (using A200) ?
Q : I have asked this before but no one is answering, so here I go again :-). If my subject is moving towards my camera, what should I do to get a sharp focus (using A200) ?
Q : I have asked this before but no one is answering, so here I go again :-). If my subject is moving towards my camera, what should I do to get a sharp focus (using A200) ?
Try AF-C... AutoFocus - Continuous In this mode you won't hear the focus lock beep. Use the Red focus-point indicator and the solid green dot at bottom of the OVF.
u can upload ur picture let our sifu point out where is the problem . want a sharp / focus in correctly ? -shutter speed must be fast, 1/50 or faster -Steday shot is enable .
Well, I wasn't really reading the manual so I kinda just 'belasah' any setting I could think of with my minimal amount of knowledge.
The pictures were at night, and I was in a moving vehicle. I guess that was that killed the pictures.
Btw, thank you for your tips. I appreciate it a lot.
This post has been edited by Coozy: Dec 25 2009, 12:31 PM
why my cz sometime looks like oof? .. it was pretty close to the subject but the lens lock the target .. when i transfer to pc, i can see, it is blur .. sad.gif .. i am pretty sure that i point the focus directly to the subject ..
why my cz sometime looks like oof? .. it was pretty close to the subject but the lens lock the target .. when i transfer to pc, i can see, it is blur .. sad.gif .. i am pretty sure that i point the focus directly to the subject ..
u can preview the pics u'd taken.. and make sure u're using AF-A or manual focus, coz when ur using AF-C (continuous) it'll change the focus point sometimes.. if this is your case lah~
Was wondering about the new 55200 SAM lens... anyone has a comparison pic with the old 55200? is the IQ any better than the 55200? suddenly have fallen in love with this lens... might get a brand new new 55200 SAM lens some time soon... hehehe...
Seng_Kiat: DOF becomes more shallow at close range - watch out for that. Also make sure you and subject are not moving. Also, are you at 16mm? The CZ 16-80mm sometimes makes a backfocusing body obvious.
jimlim007: Yes, but the price, size and weight of the Sigma are all disadvantages. The bigger body is to reduce cats-eye bokeh, and to fit the HSM motor.
amadeo: Could you add the following to the price list:
Sony 30mm F2.8 DT SAM Macro = RM7xx
Sony 28-75mm F2.8 SAM = RM26xx
gizmo_pony: Use the center AF point for fastest focus acquisition, and zoom out to help the camera catch focus.
Braynumb: The Sony 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT SAM is not compatible with the AF/MF and DMF functions of the A700. Not worth it for me.
Here's an interesting question I'm shooting something that's Dark Purple indoors with my A550.
But the picture comes out as BLUE.
I've tried different white balance, and shutter speed settings but I can't get it to appear purple. Other pics look fine, so I'm guessing this is one of those special light situations.
Seng_Kiat: DOF becomes more shallow at close range - watch out for that. Also make sure you and subject are not moving. Also, are you at 16mm? The CZ 16-80mm sometimes makes a backfocusing body obvious.
Ermmm .. I am pretty sure that the subject was not moving .. yes, it was set at 16mm... ermmm .. is there any suggestion method to test either it is normal, or lens or body issue?
I am pretty positive that it was not because of handling issue such as wrong focus point, hand shake, etc ..
Ermmm .. I am pretty sure that the subject was not moving .. yes, it was set at 16mm... ermmm .. is there any suggestion method to test either it is normal, or lens or body issue?
I am pretty positive that it was not because of handling issue such as wrong focus point, hand shake, etc ..
bro , y .. ur cz got back focusing problem ka ? any plan for this weekend ?
Here's an interesting question I'm shooting something that's Dark Purple indoors with my A550.
But the picture comes out as BLUE.
I've tried different white balance, and shutter speed settings but I can't get it to appear purple. Other pics look fine, so I'm guessing this is one of those special light situations.
Duh..
Just realized the problem. The color depth of the A550 screen was not enough to show the subtle purple of the item. The photo was fine when viewed on the computer. Interesting thing to remember.
amadeo: Could you add the following to the price list:
Sony 30mm F2.8 DT SAM Macro = RM7xx
Sony 28-75mm F2.8 SAM = RM26xx
Done!
QUOTE(marauderz @ Dec 25 2009, 10:34 PM)
Duh..
Just realized the problem. The color depth of the A550 screen was not enough to show the subtle purple of the item. The photo was fine when viewed on the computer. Interesting thing to remember.
Braynumb : You fall in love with lenses abit too fast right? LOL.
can't help it Mo0... somehow now more in love with the bokeh of the 55200 rather than the 70200 tammy that I borrowed... I haven't tried the beercan yet, so, can't say nothing about it... but so far, the 55200's bokeh reminded me of my old C 70200 f4L lens that I miss sooooo MUCH!
QUOTE(albnok @ Dec 25 2009, 09:52 PM)
Braynumb: The Sony 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT SAM is not compatible with the AF/MF and DMF functions of the A700. Not worth it for me.
really? how about the old 55200? is it better??
QUOTE(SHOfrE3zE @ Dec 25 2009, 10:53 PM)
pic spam for the new thread. from 1 of my december client. tomorrow another job at rawang.
Dude! been busy lately ho? hehehe... nice pics too... Shafriz, what settings do you use for indoor shots?? seriously find it sometimes troublesome to set the white balance during weddings... any tips??
finejava, get it lol. 135mm is better than 85mm right?
depends on the usage...wat i like bout the 85mm is the F1.4...it works extremely well in low light with fast shutter speed...and the fact that on a aps-c the length would be ~128mm 35mm equivalent which is almost similar to 135 on a full-frame.
135mm is F1.8...even though ppl might say 1.4 & 1.8 not much diff...but...when comes to low light with fast action...every stop does influence the shutter speed in A mode.
I'm still sticking to 85mm...now looking for the best bargain out there...just matter of time...b4 i get it...
i've taken a few shots...will upload it tomorrow...
another thing to note...a lot of review says the focusing speed is not that great...but to hell with it...it is DEFINITELY faster than the 50mm F1.4...and that is more than good enough...
This post has been edited by finejava: Dec 26 2009, 12:58 AM
would it be better to get a sony or the photix/octopus??i know of course sony best but the problem lies with $$$, just wondering will the photix/octopus be "up to standard" as compared to sony ori lo..... -.-""
which is at the same price, which one would you guys prefer?
lets see how impt is the VG to u??? to me..im not a fan of VG as i already find my bag very heavy n bulky + i don shoot in portrait mode that often..so my choice is probably 1680...
if u feel u need the grip..then i would suggest u take the latter as the quality btwn 1680 vs 16105 is not VERY VERY big..other than the slight diff in IQ n contrast..maybe u also lose out some aperture..thats all
This post has been edited by achew: Dec 26 2009, 08:36 AM
Do you guys found any good deal on Sony a550? Added on December 26, 2009, 5:56 amUrm, between: Sony a550 + CZ1680 and Sony a550 + VG + SAL16105 which is at the same price, which one would you guys prefer?
Sony a550 + CZ1680 FTW ! Same like achew .. Dont need a VG
This post has been edited by noprob: Dec 26 2009, 10:10 AM
a VG make u "Look" out standing from others. NOW everybody use DSLR, the one with bigger camera size win.. "I m JOKING "
Try and see whether u like 1680 more or the 16105 more. in the end, u might still get a VG if u really need it.
agree with you another thing is you plan to get external flash eg:F58, then it might be a good idea to get VG because it will help to balance the weight i purchased my VG few days after i owned flash
This post has been edited by v1rtual: Dec 26 2009, 10:12 AM
agree with you another thing is you plan to get external flash eg:F58, then it might be a good idea to get VG because it will help to balance the weight i purchased my VG few days after i owned flash
totally agree with v1rtual, the thing with VG is not the look, pro la, this la, that la...
i concluded: 1. Balance the weight 2. Battery life 3. most importantly...to help you snap portrait shoots normally and comfortably... there is more la...but can't think...just woke up...
for 3rd party i observe, most the battery you need to change manually from 1->2 unlike sony
would it be better to get a sony or the photix/octopus??i know of course sony best but the problem lies with $$$, just wondering will the photix/octopus be "up to standard" as compared to sony ori lo..... -.-""
mine is photix, giving me problem only after a month of use, the control dial keep jumping eg. for shutter speed adjustment from 1/10 straight away to 1/500. i have got replaced twice still having problem.
Well I thought agreeing to a deal with a big shot like him would be nice la. HE said next week will sell me after he comes back from Ipoh. When he's back i SMS him he say he busy. The next day see his thread at Photomalaysia.com, said its sold dy. Zzzz.
aiyo...wat i meant is...i lazy ma...so i select all pic...put auto for all the settings before convert to jpeg...okok...let me get the original pic for u guys...
Added on December 26, 2009, 3:57 pmok i've already re-post the pic for 1,3 & 4...direct conversion...
Added on December 26, 2009, 4:09 pmi find that from RAW to jpeg color re-production is diff a lil bit some how...
This post has been edited by finejava: Dec 26 2009, 04:09 PM
international means u can fix it in other country...local means u can fix it only at the country u bought it...
international as to...they have a few service center in HK(Asia), New Jersey(US) & UK(Europe)...they dun have it in Malaysia so far...so the nearest is to send to HK lor...but if ur in UK then just sent to their office for warranty services...
They are smart enough to choose those countries to represent each regional...
This post has been edited by finejava: Dec 26 2009, 05:23 PM
Hi, Today i just use my new toy A550 go zoo take pic, just want to ask how to you D-range set auto or set D-range Level 3? which should i go, bcos i still dunno how to use d-range, is A200 i always use high, but a550 diffrent abit anyone can help me know is you know. give me some tips:)
me is wee wang wang after 3 cans of beer and 2 glasses of Chardonnay
still can reach home n post a msg like tat.... not yet wee wang wang la..... i didn notice u drank tat much though... wakaka... anyway, thx for coming, and thx for teaching, although i might not absorb all.. wakaka....
i wanna ask, KM AF 24105 f3.5-4.5 and 1750 f2.8 which better? I feel like getting the KM but 1750 got static F but KM got longer/wider zoom length. Confuse le ><
i wanna ask, KM AF 24105 f3.5-4.5 and 1750 f2.8 which better? I feel like getting the KM but 1750 got static F but KM got longer/wider zoom length. Confuse le ><
i think only u can answer ur own question...which one matters more to u?constant aperture?range?
i wanna ask, KM AF 24105 f3.5-4.5 and 1750 f2.8 which better? I feel like getting the KM but 1750 got static F but KM got longer/wider zoom length. Confuse le ><
i vote KM 24105 , but it's not wide at APS-C but try to love this range
This post has been edited by likito: Dec 26 2009, 11:56 PM
Today went over to Sony Style The Curve to try out 85mm F1.4 and 135mm F1.8 on my puny A200..... I don't think my hands can stabilise the beast even with SSS. The hand-shaking icon keep appearing hehehe. Had nice bokeh at wide-open.... found that the CZ135mm sharper than CZ85mm at wide open
Will post some pictures later on....
Time to upgrade body :-)
This post has been edited by ronnie: Dec 27 2009, 01:09 AM
marauderz: Interesting, will remember to try this next time I see a tricky purple. Also was it from the JPG or RAW, given that RAW probably would harvest more colors?
The underscore is due to it being in AdobeRGB instead of sRGB.
Braynumb: I think you're going around in circles being silly lah. Just get the beercan. The 100-200mm F4.5 is the closest you've ever had to it, but with a weaker range.
finejava: Yes indeed! An autofocusing 85mm F1.4 is better than a manual focusing 85mm F1.4. Also, I have a friend who feels his Zeiss 85mm F1.4 was slower but when compared side-by-side with my Zeiss 135mm F1.8 it was the same. Perceptual, I guess.
Aiyo, the point of RAW is that you can (and probably are expected to) fix simple errors like underexposure and wrong WB!
As for the difference in color it is entirely up to the RAW converter. Some bring out more colors in fine detail. Some have a different idea of AWB. Whatever it is, you are supposed to change it. If you want to do a direct comparison set them all to the same Kelvin and Color Correction Filter (Tint) value.
8 years is a good long time. Though the local warranty is 1 year plus 6 months once you register it online. If you can bear with shipping it to Hong Kong before it gets sent for warranty, sure! Ironically, I think you'll have better luck and more efficient service sending it to HK... provided it is by a service company of caliber. For example in USA there's Precision Camera which has been getting good feedback on Dyxum.
porkchop: The VG-B30AM and VG-B50AM copies are fine. For the A700/A850/A900 you don't want to get one of those 3-button grips since the VG-C70AM and VG-C90AM have a full set of buttons. That said I think the VG-B50AM feels far more solid than the VG-B30AM, and the copies of the VG-B30AM already feel creakier.
signither: ND for waterfalls, GND for landscapes. I dare say there is more practical use for the GND outside of waterfalls and landscapes, to equalize the exposure on two halves of a frame. However I don't have space for it in my bag all the time.
fansoption: Set the DRO as you like lah! Note that the higher the DRO (say Level 5) you get more noise because it is pulling up the shadows.
CrazyAyik: I have the Minolta 24-105mm F3.5-4.5(D) - it is nice and much smaller than the Tamron 17-50mm F2.8. However are you sure you don't need the 17mm end of it?
marauderz: Interesting, will remember to try this next time I see a tricky purple. Also was it from the JPG or RAW, given that RAW probably would harvest more colors?
The underscore is due to it being in AdobeRGB instead of sRGB.
I was shooting in jpg, the internal screen could not display the purple, but the picture viewed on a laptop could. and the underscore is due to adobeRGB? so my wife was having a party with my settings...
Here's an interesting question I'm shooting something that's Dark Purple indoors with my A550.
But the picture comes out as BLUE.
I've tried different white balance, and shutter speed settings but I can't get it to appear purple. Other pics look fine, so I'm guessing this is one of those special light situations.
i have encountered this problem too and after some googling about purple...it is a diff to achieve color.
from what i understand, purple is made out from the extreme of duno what (forgot) and RGB alone is not sufficient to create some purple colors....
my problem was, no matter how accurate the WB is, some purple is not-achievable at all.....be it on the LCD or monitor, it still looks blue. I have to PP the HUE to bring out purple..
Added on December 27, 2009, 11:45 amalbnok: that is the thing with the converter...still new to RAW...i just change to RAW format after meeting u guys for the 1st time...
was hoping for a "smart" converter that could do everything for us...haih...
when is the next TT?
This post has been edited by finejava: Dec 27 2009, 11:45 AM
very bz christmas indeed. ill be heading to krabi, thailand fer new years..hope to get some drop dead awesome shots... gonna work with the stuff ive picked up in kedah
anyone can teach me how to use A550 D-range set auto or set D-range Level 3?
there's nothing much to teach, 1st learn WHAT IS DRO. then take your camera out and shoot with different DROs, while maintaining same shutter, aperture and ISO. see the difference, which one u like? which has the effect you are looking for? DRO and DRO+ sometimes u might not see much difference. but definitely im sure u will see them in lvl 1 -5.
DRO brings up noise in shadows, so dont think its a life saver in dark conditions. u still need to stick to the basics.
aiyo..im trying to show him what he could have done ma...spent like 30sec on it only..haha....and most importantly..i just woke up from my 10hours sleep..still pretty blur now..lol
Added on December 27, 2009, 8:07 pm
QUOTE(bysquashy @ Dec 27 2009, 08:05 PM)
Because you saw the ori pic
if u inspect the shot carefully..even u nv see orig shot..u'd able to find something strange..lol..there r too many duplicated pattern coz im lazy..lol
This post has been edited by achew: Dec 27 2009, 08:07 PM
aiyo..im trying to show him what he could have done ma...spent like 30sec on it only..haha....and most importantly..i just woke up from my 10hours sleep..still pretty blur now..lol
Added on December 27, 2009, 8:07 pm
if u inspect the shot carefully..even u nv see orig shot..u'd able to find something strange..lol..there r too many duplicated pattern coz im lazy..lol
yeap, like achew said, i find something strange at some line there.. haha, btw i understand achew just show some idea to fansoption to cloning some unwanted line there.. to make the his picture perfect
a normal 133x CF is 20mb/s....so do u wanna have another 10mb/s?? if yes then go for it...really necessary for the one who use drive mode a lot....
i know its 50% faster than the usual 133x..but what i mean is..if the difference significant enough for the user to feel it?? 0.0001s is 10 times faster than 0.00001s..but i don think i could "feel" any diff there..hope u get what i mean..
erm..yea..i do use the drive mode often(infact i use it like 90% of the time) as i tend to have 2-3 shots together to avoid eyes blinking..
i think u better get the better one. hehe.. I have the 8GB Kingston 133x. Damn slow on my A200. much better at A700. but I still can feel the lag compare to my 300x card.
The lag only felt when i do review after shooting. I guess it;s partially due to the buffer on the camera make the lag not so obvious when doing burst shoot (For the 1st few pic at least), not sure if u burst until the buffer run out, coz i don do that..
btw.. better buy the san disk at Sg during Fair.. I put up the price compare for SG/MY PC fair HERE
This post has been edited by hkhk: Dec 27 2009, 11:14 PM
i think u better get the better one. hehe.. I have the 8GB Kingston 133x. Damn slow on my A200. much better at A700. but I still can feel the lag compare to my 300x card.
btw.. better buy the san disk at Sg during fair.. i show u the price later.
heres a very weird case i found out with my frens.... we both have a 8GB 133x CF from Kingston,transcend and sony.... it means they should have similar writing and reading speed right?? we did with a few small tests while one was the time for the picture to read into the card and enable the user to delete the pictures.... we shot a picture using a200 and press delete button until the picture is allow to be deleted... kingston need 9 seconds to be deleted while transcend is 3 seconds.... in other tests the kingstons also recorded the slowest among the others...
marauderz: Just to be sure, were you shooting JPG? If you were, then you can say that the screen couldn't display purple. If you were shooting RAW then we cannot say for sure that the screen cannot display purple as the RAW processor will have a different idea of WB and how to extract color.
SpOOkY: It's the color gamut. Purple is made of red and blue. It is plainly due to the camera's tendency to underexpose because it sees Full Blue (255) but and stops exposing there. If it exposes longer, blue will be clipped but red and green can come out.
Same thing for red - cameras tend to underexpose if it sees blown red, losing the green and blue channels.
You can of course pull out the missing channels.
finejava: No there isn't, the smartest conversion is still up to you.
SHOfrE3zE: Nice geometry!
fansoption: Read my earlier reply to you! I will not post it again.
This post has been edited by albnok: Dec 27 2009, 11:24 PM
heres a very weird case i found out with my frens.... we both have a 8GB 133x CF from Kingston,transcend and sony.... it means they should have similar writing and reading speed right?? we did with a few small tests while one was the time for the picture to read into the card and enable the user to delete the pictures.... we shot a picture using a200 and press delete button until the picture is allow to be deleted... kingston need 9 seconds to be deleted while transcend is 3 seconds.... in other tests the kingstons also recorded the slowest among the others...
yup.. my Kingston 133x 8GB also take such long time on the A200 for deleting a photo. But on A700 is much faster. I assume that particular Kingston 133x 8GB might have compatibility issue with A200. Actually I intended to bundle the 8GB card with my A200 when i sell it, but when i realize such a slow speed.. its not suitable to bundle it else the buyer might think the camera got problem.
I tried to use the 133x 8GB on card reader. it works fine, the speed is rather fast and acceptable.
I have another pc of kINGSTON 133x 4GB, haven;t open the seal. I hope there is no such issue on A200..
This post has been edited by hkhk: Dec 27 2009, 11:22 PM
Braynumb: I think you're going around in circles being silly lah. Just get the beercan. The 100-200mm F4.5 is the closest you've ever had to it, but with a weaker range.
hehehe...tell me about it... well, decided to get the 55200 instead... so far so good... now just waiting for more time to spend shooting with it.
HAPPY BELATED CHRISTMAS!!!! hahaha.. n oso ALPHA V35!!! quite long din come back to check the thread oredi.
Just complete one job (no pay) taking my friend's wedding yesterday from morning 6am to 11pm... now legs are in pain cause squat a lot.. n my right hand is shaking...Good experience though.. i have been waiting for this kind of experience for sometime.
I am just the backup photographer. The main photographer is a more experience canon user, groom's relative. So many time i have to give priority for the main photographer n Videographer... & there are time when i missed the best moment I missed the part where the groom finally manage to enter d bride's room!!!!.. i totally have no room to squeeze in.. but seeing how the main photographer guide the couple n ready for the each important moment...really good thing to learn... Im just a bit upset I dont know how to speak cantonese.. is hard to tell people what to do in mandarin.. (like weird) communication problem...
The night dinner in restaurant is still tricky with the lighting... still couldnt get the exact right way. I should get myself a colour gel.. Now i get all weird weird inconsistent white balance.... Luckily got A700 manage to push my iso up to 1000-1200 to cut down the need of flash power...
I brought my A100 along too but end up not using it... cause feel like all my photos taken r Blur, i think is the lcd resolution make me think so... n oso iso performance..Only can use 50mm f1.4 on it. So I carry my A100 with me so i can swap lens when needed.. i think i need to get a lowepro lens side pocket next time.. most of d time i just put my lens on the table n everywhere after i changed d lens.. so dangerous....
Really wish to take more wedding photos... any 1 needs backup assistant can ask me... for free
Will post some photos here to share after im done editing them all... got almost 20GB of photos...1500 photos~
damn i am in dilemna, should i get a uv filter or a giant blower?? this is for my 50mm f1.8
i notice the lens receeds inside so its likely the fingers might not touch them....so mayb no need a filter, but instead a giotto blower to blow those dust which might touch it....what u all recomment??
damn i am in dilemna, should i get a uv filter or a giant blower?? this is for my 50mm f1.8
i notice the lens receeds inside so its likely the fingers might not touch them....so mayb no need a filter, but instead a giotto blower to blow those dust which might touch it....what u all recomment??
if u wan to remove dust(on lens) i think better get a lenspen, cause sometime blower cant blow away those stubborn dust..
This post has been edited by lehtung: Dec 28 2009, 03:45 AM
SpOOkY: It's the color gamut. Purple is made of red and blue. It is plainly due to the camera's tendency to underexpose because it sees Full Blue (255) but and stops exposing there. If it exposes longer, blue will be clipped but red and green can come out.
Same thing for red - cameras tend to underexpose if it sees blown red, losing the green and blue channels.
You can of course pull out the missing channels.
thanks...so how can i solve that? expose longer?... i recently took a shot od cadbury choc and it turned out blue too....in the end, i just have to pp it....sigh... thanks in advance
Added on December 28, 2009, 8:56 am
QUOTE(albnok @ Dec 28 2009, 01:19 AM)
One year later, a professional writes about the A900 he bought:
just received a sms from sony service center about my flash not working. i call them and they claimed that the flash motor was spoiled. not sure what motor la. it cost me around RM490++....so i decide not to fix it
But there's still another interesting 'problem'. After my wife set the camera to take pictures at 7M instead of 14M the filename for the files are now
_DSC1234.jpg
instead of the original
DSC01234.jpg.
Even setting it back to 14M mode doesn't make the files save as the original numbering. Any ideas on how to fix this little nuisance?
You wife may have accidentally set your cam to the ADOBE RGB color space. That will give you the _DSCxxxx filename. Set it back to SRGB and you will be back to normal.
clivengu : Your A100 can still be used. Set to ISO 800 and with the help of a flash, you can still get decent pictures. Just remember to overexpose your shots a little and it should be fine. Noise can hardly be seen.
A big part of wedding photography is communication with the couple. Let them know well before hand how and what you are going to do. Ensure that they tell all their friends and relatives that there's a OP there so that you will have an easier time. You still need to jostle for space but it will make life a little easier for you.
I really think that to cover a wedding really well, couples will need at least 2 photographers. One to tag with the bride and one to tag with the groom. Ideally a team of 3 photogs with experience will be best. One to cover the groom, one for the bride and a third for the crowd and candid snipe shots.
just received a sms from sony service center about my flash not working. i call them and they claimed that the flash motor was spoiled. not sure what motor la. it cost me around RM490++....so i decide not to fix it
thinking of getting new flash then
which flash? F58? or F36? if 36, then dun bother, if 42 or higher, then go ahead and fix it
HAPPY BELATED CHRISTMAS!!!! hahaha.. n oso ALPHA V35!!! quite long din come back to check the thread oredi. Just complete one job (no pay) taking my friend's wedding yesterday from morning 6am to 11pm... now legs are in pain cause squat a lot.. n my right hand is shaking...Good experience though.. i have been waiting for this kind of experience for sometime.
I am just the backup photographer. The main photographer is a more experience canon user, groom's relative. So many time i have to give priority for the main photographer n Videographer... & there are time when i missed the best moment I missed the part where the groom finally manage to enter d bride's room!!!!.. i totally have no room to squeeze in.. but seeing how the main photographer guide the couple n ready for the each important moment...really good thing to learn... Im just a bit upset I dont know how to speak cantonese.. is hard to tell people what to do in mandarin.. (like weird) communication problem...
The night dinner in restaurant is still tricky with the lighting... still couldnt get the exact right way. I should get myself a colour gel.. Now i get all weird weird inconsistent white balance.... Luckily got A700 manage to push my iso up to 1000-1200 to cut down the need of flash power...
I brought my A100 along too but end up not using it... cause feel like all my photos taken r Blur, i think is the lcd resolution make me think so... n oso iso performance..Only can use 50mm f1.4 on it. So I carry my A100 with me so i can swap lens when needed.. i think i need to get a lowepro lens side pocket next time.. most of d time i just put my lens on the table n everywhere after i changed d lens.. so dangerous....
Really wish to take more wedding photos... any 1 needs backup assistant can ask me... for free
Will post some photos here to share after im done editing them all... got almost 20GB of photos...1500 photos~
Clive, I too not good in speaking cantonese and had minor backup photographer experience for Chinese wedding. Having use A300 on Aperture priority is quite suffering and in the end I resort in using full manual mode for everything (including flash)
Come to think of it, it's actually quite fun to be backup photographer as we don't have to follow the bride and groom all the time; but can move more freely, taking pictures of 'heng tai' and 'chi muis' while the bride and groom were in the tea ceremony (where by main photographer handling it). That's where most of the interesting items happening with heng tai and chi muis. Tea Ceremony was quite boring and repetitive
sonyx: Er... I would rather get the F42 or F58, really... the F42 is a slight downgrade but I like how it is smaller and has more accurate flash exposure. It also recharges much faster after a full blast (4 seconds).
SpOOkY: As I said - overexpose! You'll see it all coming back.
Clive, I too not good in speaking cantonese and had minor backup photographer experience for Chinese wedding. Having use A300 on Aperture priority is quite suffering and in the end I resort in using full manual mode for everything (including flash)
Come to think of it, it's actually quite fun to be backup photographer as we don't have to follow the bride and groom all the time; but can move more freely, taking pictures of 'heng tai' and 'chi muis' while the bride and groom were in the tea ceremony (where by main photographer handling it). That's where most of the interesting items happening with heng tai and chi muis. Tea Ceremony was quite boring and repetitive
mind sharing why isit suffering to use A mode on A300?
Added on December 28, 2009, 11:00 am
QUOTE(albnok @ Dec 28 2009, 10:59 AM)
sonyx: Er... I would rather get the F42 or F58, really... the F42 is a slight downgrade but I like how it is smaller and has more accurate flash exposure. It also recharges much faster after a full blast (4 seconds).
SpOOkY: As I said - overexpose! You'll see it all coming back.
let me try overexposing it .....will do a quick test at night
This post has been edited by Sp00kY: Dec 28 2009, 11:00 AM
SONY A700 BODY WITH BOX; BUNDLED FREEBIES (1) EXTRA SONY BATTERY (2) SONY REMOTE RELEASE (3) SONY LEATHER HANDGRIP (4) SONY NEOPRENE SHOULDER STRAP. A700 BUNDLE FOR RM2,500 ONLY. Also available, SONY 50mm f1.4 lens with Box [RM850], HVL-F58AM FLASH [RM900] and HVL-RLAM Ring Light [RM700]. ALL HARDLY USED AS I MAINLY SHOOT USING LEICA M SYSTEM. View KL,Klang Valley. Contact 012-2816955 or guanhock@hotmail.com. - GH <guanhock@hotmail.com>
just back from johor trip , this what i got there , c&c welcome ! Large Size A300 + minolta 28mm F2.8 1/60sec iso400 F4
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
i like the colors
QUOTE(wha7ever @ Dec 28 2009, 01:24 PM)
Let's just say that time my flash is not co-operating with me.
Edit: I wanted full control over my flash to get the results I want. Btw, that time was using F42 which I can't control manually on A mode.
i think u shud understand how ur A/M mode works with flash. i am one that will always recommend M mode if you are using your flash as the main light.. however, for daytime fill flash, i will recommend one to use A mode... just a personal preference perhaps..
wha7ever: You can enable Manual Power flash while in Aperture Priority - it's a custom function on your F42. Refer to your manual on how to activate it.
i think u shud understand how ur A/M mode works with flash. i am one that will always recommend M mode if you are using your flash as the main light.. however, for daytime fill flash, i will recommend one to use A mode... just a personal preference perhaps..
Before I got my first flash, I was already using M all the way with my camera hence didn't explore much on P A S mode using a flash. When asking advise on wedding photography, most photogs advise to stick to A or S and let the camera do the work. But all else failed, hence stick back to M which I'm much more comfortable in:D
QUOTE(albnok @ Dec 28 2009, 02:19 PM)
wha7ever: You can enable Manual Power flash while in Aperture Priority - it's a custom function on your F42. Refer to your manual on how to activate it.
sifu, wanna ask will it b a redundancy to own an additional 50 f1.4 since i dy hv 17-50 f2.8?
why say so? 1) 17-50 max is 2.8 whilst the other is 1.4 2) most primes are distortionless (can be ignored) as apposed to 17-50.. 3) sharpness of primes are pretty awesome too
since u guys talking about flash, I have a few questions here .. ..
I normally using Aperture priority on my camera to shoot. The problem is when I using flash with TTL. It does not give it constant exposure eventho the aperture is same and shutter set to 1/60. Sometime it is too dark something too bright .. any tips on using it as auto (TTL) mode? ..
I have to manually adjust the flash power by putting on manual .. .. it is OK but a lil bit leceh ..
if budget is the limitations, go for 28mm also ok right??
Added on December 28, 2009, 5:10 pm
QUOTE(Seng_Kiat @ Dec 28 2009, 04:39 PM)
since u guys talking about flash, I have a few questions here .. ..
I normally using Aperture priority on my camera to shoot. The problem is when I using flash with TTL. It does not give it constant exposure eventho the aperture is same and shutter set to 1/60. Sometime it is too dark something too bright .. any tips on using it as auto (TTL) mode? ..
I have to manually adjust the flash power by putting on manual .. .. it is OK but a lil bit leceh ..
for me there are some ways to shoot with flash... 1st is always shoot RAW coz we still can rescue the photo while jpeg cant do tht too much... 2nd is control the flash power via the flash compensation in your camera, it should allow u to control the power of ur flash output, no need to control via the flash itself...
This post has been edited by neo_lam: Dec 28 2009, 05:10 PM
since u guys talking about flash, I have a few questions here .. ..
I normally using Aperture priority on my camera to shoot. The problem is when I using flash with TTL. It does not give it constant exposure eventho the aperture is same and shutter set to 1/60. Sometime it is too dark something too bright .. any tips on using it as auto (TTL) mode? ..
I have to manually adjust the flash power by putting on manual .. .. it is OK but a lil bit leceh ..
hmmm when u mean not constant exposure, are u refering to the subject or background?
i duno if there is this function in sony or not where when u are in A/P/S (other than M mode) with flash on, u can actually turn on a balance-fill in the flash where it will adjust the background exposure accordingly. this is only useful when the background is much birghter (fill flash)
This post has been edited by Sp00kY: Dec 28 2009, 05:15 PM
if budget is the limitations, go for 28mm also ok right??
Added on December 28, 2009, 5:10 pm for me there are some ways to shoot with flash... 1st is always shoot RAW coz we still can rescue the photo while jpeg cant do tht too much... 2nd is control the flash power via the flash compensation in your camera, it should allow u to control the power of ur flash output, no need to control via the flash itself...
if u get 28mm u won't get f1.4 oredi
QUOTE(jr.precrime @ Dec 28 2009, 05:13 PM)
Yeah, budget is a bit tight here... spend too much dy with holidays
Seng_Kiat: You mean the flash EV is different each time? Beware the shiny surfaces and compensate accordingly.
Or if you mean that the ambient light is different? That is unavoidable (and so you may need to use the AEL button to activate Slow Sync.)
SpOOkY: There is Slow Sync when you press AEL on A100/A700/A850/A900 or you could set the Flash mode to Slow Sync.
jr.precrime: The Sigma 28mm F1.8 is cheaper, followed by the Sigma 24mm F1.8 and Sigma 20mm F1.8. Not sure how much these are now in Malaysia but last I remember, the prices I see on Amazon are very close to what a dealer quoted me before.
Arranged in order of price: Sigma 20mm F1.8 EX DG Macro, MFD = 20cm, maximum magnification = 1:4x, USD519 Sigma 24mm F1.8 EX DG Macro, MFD = 18cm, maximum magnification = 1:2.7x, USD449 Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, MFD = 40cm, maximum magnification = 1:10.4x, USD439 Sigma 28mm F1.8 EX DG Macro, MFD = 20cm, maximum magnification = 1:2.9x, USD349
My friend got a local-warranty Sigma 30mm F1.4 recently for RM1750 so we can assume a 1 USD = RM4 conversion rate.
clivengu : Your A100 can still be used. Set to ISO 800 and with the help of a flash, you can still get decent pictures. Just remember to overexpose your shots a little and it should be fine. Noise can hardly be seen.
A big part of wedding photography is communication with the couple. Let them know well before hand how and what you are going to do. Ensure that they tell all their friends and relatives that there's a OP there so that you will have an easier time. You still need to jostle for space but it will make life a little easier for you.
I really think that to cover a wedding really well, couples will need at least 2 photographers. One to tag with the bride and one to tag with the groom. Ideally a team of 3 photogs with experience will be best. One to cover the groom, one for the bride and a third for the crowd and candid snipe shots.
Actually A100 still can be used... just that psychologically the lcd give me the impression that the photos are blur haha. I usually used it with my 50mm without flash. but if time allows, i'll still switch it to A700 because the slightly higher resolution n better noise control allow me to crop later.
Actually im not the official photographer... so i just check from the side.. what he did.. n I do some side candid shot... Yeah.. 3 Photographers i think will be most ideal. I think should set up a team among Alphas can work together next time
QUOTE(wha7ever @ Dec 28 2009, 10:33 AM)
Clive, I too not good in speaking cantonese and had minor backup photographer experience for Chinese wedding. Having use A300 on Aperture priority is quite suffering and in the end I resort in using full manual mode for everything (including flash)
Come to think of it, it's actually quite fun to be backup photographer as we don't have to follow the bride and groom all the time; but can move more freely, taking pictures of 'heng tai' and 'chi muis' while the bride and groom were in the tea ceremony (where by main photographer handling it). That's where most of the interesting items happening with heng tai and chi muis. Tea Ceremony was quite boring and repetitive
I usually use M mode.. & control the aperture n shutter speed let say i know the slowest shutter speed i can handle is 1/50 sec... then i set tat, n the flash to Auto..letting the flash to judge how much more light is required. One thing i find extremely helpful in the A700 is the Custom 1,2,3... allow me to set before hand. example...
C1 = iso 1000, 1/60 sec, F2.8, WB 5500k on my Tamron 1750 , with flash on.... usually for single/double candid shot C2= iso 1250, 1/50 sec, F5.6, WB 5500k on my Tamron 1750, with flash on.... usually for group photo C3= iso 800 1/60 sec, F2, WB 3400k on my 50mm F1.4 without flash.... for pinpoint candid shot.
Work tat way n It really save me a lot of trouble...
Yeah looking back my photos.. i would say luckily im just the backup photographer.. because i can get a lot of interesting shot from the side. n i can oso zoom in to give a more bokeh background/foreground. If im the main photographer infront of the bride/groom... im pretty sure i hv to use a wider angle.. and yeah many shots will be repetitive especially Tea Ceremony n it bcome the main photographer responsibility to take every each of them... while im just working on getting the most artistic view around ... i actually still can run around.. missing some of the tea session.
QUOTE(cjlai @ Dec 28 2009, 04:08 PM)
thread so quiet these days.... spam abit
Love this one.. sharp n the colour n warm for my liking
QUOTE(jr.precrime @ Dec 28 2009, 04:10 PM)
sifu, wanna ask will it b a redundancy to own an additional 50 f1.4 since i dy hv 17-50 f2.8?
i having both lens.... n LOVE THIS combination... they gonna be my favourite pair for wedding shooting of all time 50mm for the details. 1750 for the general...Not enough zoom.. i actually crop a little n is done.
The Sigma 28mm F1.8 is cheaper, followed by the Sigma 24mm F1.8 and Sigma 20mm F1.8. Not sure how much these are now in Malaysia but last I remember, the prices I see on Amazon are very close to what a dealer quoted me before.
Arranged in order of price: Sigma 20mm F1.8 EX DG Macro, MFD = 20cm, maximum magnification = 1:4x, USD519 Sigma 24mm F1.8 EX DG Macro, MFD = 18cm, maximum magnification = 1:2.7x, USD449 Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, MFD = 40cm, maximum magnification = 1:10.4x, USD439 Sigma 28mm F1.8 EX DG Macro, MFD = 20cm, maximum magnification = 1:2.9x, USD349
My friend got a local-warranty Sigma 30mm F1.4 recently for RM1750 so we can assume a 1 USD = RM4 conversion rate.
yah, time for a quick long sit and counting the budgets
I usually use M mode.. & control the aperture n shutter speed let say i know the slowest shutter speed i can handle is 1/50 sec... then i set tat, n the flash to Auto..letting the flash to judge how much more light is required. One thing i find extremely helpful in the A700 is the Custom 1,2,3... allow me to set before hand. example...
C1 = iso 1000, 1/60 sec, F2.8, WB 5500k on my Tamron 1750 , with flash on.... usually for single/double candid shot C2= iso 1250, 1/50 sec, F5.6, WB 5500k on my Tamron 1750, with flash on.... usually for group photo C3= iso 800 1/60 sec, F2, WB 3400k on my 50mm F1.4 without flash.... for pinpoint candid shot.
Work tat way n It really save me a lot of trouble...
Yeah looking back my photos.. i would say luckily im just the backup photographer.. because i can get a lot of interesting shot from the side. n i can oso zoom in to give a more bokeh background/foreground. If im the main photographer infront of the bride/groom... im pretty sure i hv to use a wider angle.. and yeah many shots will be repetitive especially Tea Ceremony n it bcome the main photographer responsibility to take every each of them... while im just working on getting the most artistic view around ... i actually still can run around.. missing some of the tea session.
Looks like custom settings comes in pretty handy. Too bad A300 and the other low entry doesn't come with them. Hence have to move my finger quick to adjust Aperture / Shutter, and my ISO stuck at 400
Albnok : I manage to unlock the manual mode for F42 on Aperture Priority mode. Didn't manage to check the manual but manage to play around to get it. Thanks for the heads up! I didn't knew about it until you mentioned it
cause i feel it a bit soft at 1.4, or is my hand shaking?
yes..it is soft at 1.4....too shallow the DOF...hard to focus... BUT!! the bokeh is dreamy and nice....so just for some special street and portrait shots....
Hi guys, just sold my a350 body to a nice forumer and thinking to upgrade the body to a550. Anyone here using the body can tell me if the "body shake" still exists when u switch on?
the blur/bokeh is straight from the lens..nv touch it.. depend on ur lighting condition..if evenly lighted..i'll use centre weighted...if not i usualy meter on the face of my subject..
achew: do u mean if evenly lighted then u just focus straight to the subject? or do you still meter in a slight darker area then focus on the subject?
and ur usual method is u uses spot metering direct on the subject?
achew: do u mean if evenly lighted then u just focus straight to the subject? or do you still meter in a slight darker area then focus on the subject?
and ur usual method is u uses spot metering direct on the subject?
i cant use spot metering direct on the subject coz 90% of the time i dont place my subject at the center..
when the lighting condition is good..i choose centre weighted...and straightaway focus on whatever i want to shoot..never touch any metering while shooting..
if i found that the lighting condition isnt very idea(eg: background super bright..the center of the frame very bright and i always place my subject on the side)..i would do AEL on the subject face...
if AEL on the face would make the background totally over exposed(when im not looking for a high-key shot)..sometimes i'd use EV to compensate and find somewhere inbtwn..so that i could edit my RAW during PP to get both the background and subject exposed correctly..
This post has been edited by achew: Dec 28 2009, 11:42 PM
i cant use spot metering direct on the subject coz 90% of the time i dont place my subject at the center..
when the lighting condition is good..i choose centre weighted...and straightaway focus on whatever i want to shoot..never touch any metering while shooting..
if i found that the lighting condition isnt very idea(eg: background super bright..the center of the frame very bright and i always place my subject on the side)..i would do AEL on the subject face...
if AEL on the face would make the background totally over exposed(when im not looking for a high-key shot)..sometimes i'd use EV to compensate and find somewhere inbtwn..so that i could edit my RAW during PP to get both the background and subject exposed correctly..
if want the background and subject to be correctly exposed i think matrix metering should do a great job....
if want the background and subject to be correctly exposed i think matrix metering should do a great job....
i find that sometimes if certain part inside the frame is way too bright..the metering wont really work well....but for most of the time..im using centre weighted..unless i spoted something is wrong...or im looking for high-key/low-key
the blur/bokeh is straight from the lens..nv touch it..
great..u have just injected a very hard to cure poison into my body..
however..just out of curiousity..wanna ask all sifus here..if i wanna buy a sal 50mm 1.4, for that kind of price,is there any comparable or better lens out there? in terms of i)versatility ii)shaprness iii)bokeh ?
great..u have just injected a very hard to cure poison into my body..
however..just out of curiousity..wanna ask all sifus here..if i wanna buy a sal 50mm 1.4, for that kind of price,is there any comparable or better lens out there? in terms of i)versatility ii)shaprness iii)bokeh ?
clivengu: Wow, you actually use all 3 MR slots! I used only slot 1 on the A700, and flipped between that and Manual Exposure or Aperture Priority (since they remember their own WB.)
Of course with the A900 and 3 separate slots on the dial it became a lot easier...
hkhk: The Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC in Sony mount, does not come with HSM. This applies for all the older Sigmas (10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC) also. Everything from the 70-200mm F2.8 EX DG II HSM onwards, for Sony mount, had HSM.
And yes, the 28mm F1.8 is fun due to the MFD!
lehtung: Nice! There's something very hypnotic about her and the bokeh. Well done!
finejava: I use multi-segment, but set my AEL button to "Spot Meter AEL Toggle". So when you point at a subject and press the AEL button, it gets a spot meter reading there.
I have always, always fancied the 85mm/90mm focal length on full-frame; whenever I met a Tamron 90mm F2.8 Macro I'd pick it up and take portraits with it because of the very comfortable range.
And so, it is of no surprise that I would end up getting myself a Christmas/birthday present - the Opteka 85mm F1.4!
This is most commonly known as the Samyang 85mm F1.4 - of course, it comes repackaged as a Rokinon, Bower, Polar, Vivitar, etc. However the basic specifications still hold - it is manual focus only, does not come with a focus confirm chip, and has an aperture ring. Interestingly, the aperture jumps from F1.4 to F2.0 then clicks in half-stops until F16, where it jumps to F22.
It also only focuses to 1 meter close, which can be quite far for some people. Fortunately I am not feeling it all that often since I am used to standing further away with the Sony Carl Zeiss 135mm F1.8 (which, despite its closer 72cm minimum focus distance, will need you to stand further away due to intense magnification of the viewfinder!)
The rear end of the lens protrudes a fair bit - I am not sure if a focus confirm chip could fit in there all that easily without it being pushed out each time you focus to infinity.
Here it is, next to all my monofocal prime lenses and teleconverters. Center is the Sony Carl Zeiss Sonnar T* 135mm F1.8 ZA. Clockwise from left: Minolta 50mm F1.4 Original, Kenko 1.5x teleconverter, Kenko 2.0x teleconverter, Vivitar 24mm F2.0 DIY Tilt-Shift, Peleng 8mm F3.5 M42 mount circular fisheye, Opteka 85mm F1.4.
Left to right: Peleng 8mm F3.5 M42 mount circular fisheye, Vivitar 24mm F2.0 DIY Tilt-Shift, Minolta 50mm F1.4 Original, Opteka 85mm F1.4, Sony Carl Zeiss Sonnar T* 135mm F1.8 ZA.
The Opteka isn't that big, when flanked by the similiarly-sized Minolta 24-105mm F3.5-4.5(D). The Zeiss to the right is the big one.
However, when the Opteka's hood is on, it can try to pretend to be the same size as the Zeiss...
From the top, there is a decent amount of recessing - I really don't understand why. They could've made this lens a lot shorter and its filters would vignette less.
Amazingly, it is an internal focusing design - the Sony Carl Zeiss Planar T* 85mm F1.4 ZA and Minolta 85mm F1.4G are external focusing designs. Of course they have the far more convenient minimum focus distances of 85cm!
The current Nikkor F1.8/F1.4 and Canon 85mm F1.8/F1.2 lenses are all internal focusing. The downside of this is that the view widens as you focus closer.
Also, when looking at the lens from in front while focusing, I'm not sure why they didn't allow the focus group to travel further and thus, focus closer.
Here's the Opteka on the Minolta Dynax 7, and the Zeiss 135mm F1.8 on the Sony Alpha 900.
Somehow, the Minolta Dynax 7 look matches the Opteka more.
Though, the Sony Alpha 900 looks porportionate.
The Alpha 900, like the Alpha 200 onwards, unfortunately does not have the Shutter Release Without Lens option in the menu - so you can't use this lens in Aperture Priority anymore! You have to go to Manual Exposure, unless your lens has a chip. It also does not do focus confirm without the chip.
This post has been edited by albnok: Dec 29 2009, 11:04 AM
The first picture I took with this portrait lens, was of course, a portrait. You can see sweat! It was a hot day.
Note that initially, Auto WB tended to give a purple cast - I set it to Daylight WB and all was okay.
In office lighting, indoors, it is no slouch - I love how it picks up reflected ambient colors! This is a quality I love in great lenses.
I took it to the streets, where ISO1600 would give me 1/40s. Which would be a decent shutter speed, given the weight of the A900 helping stabilize it.
Yes, SteadyShot does not work here, unless the lens has a chip which tells the body that the lens is at 85mm, and so it can drive the SteadyShot mechanism to compensate accordingly. However in practice, 1/40s was still alright!
Only downside being at F1.4 is the shallow depth of field, making it difficult to pick a subject when street shooting.
On the LRT. I love how contrasty this lens is wide open, compared to my Minolta 50mm F1.4 Original! In hindsight only my Minolta and Sigma 17-35mm F2.8-4 EX are weak in contrast - the other lenses I have like the Minolta 24-105mm F3.5-4.5(D) and Minolta 70-210mm F4 beercan</a> are contrasty wide open.
We now cut to a comparison of contrast. I used the HVL-F56AM flash set at 1/16th power 85mm, and set the A900 at 1/200s ISO200, and turned off all the lights, for this: The Zeiss was set at F2.0 because the F56AM power cannot be set in 1/3rd steps.
The Opteka was set at F1.4, and the F56AM was dialled down to 1/32th power to equalize. I also cropped a similiar region.
The Minolta was set at F1.4, with the F56AM still at 1/32th power. While it did seem to transmit a bit more, it was quite gauzy. The Sigma 50mm F1.4 EX DG HSM would handle this situation like the above two lenses, with loads of contrast, but that's a story for another day...
I attempted to make a Minolta Dynax 7-STF mode simulation and this is what I got. The lens bodes well for fake STF attempts!
This post has been edited by albnok: Dec 29 2009, 11:02 AM
Manual focusing is not easy - you need to learn how to do it. However once mastered you can catch focus pretty quick!
100% crop.
Note that I was using the Sony FDA-FM1AM (A900 Type-M manual focusing screen) to help see depth of field accurately at F1.4. This lens is best used with a Sony Alpha 500/550 that has MF Check Live View, or an Alpha 850/900 fitted with the Type-M screen.
But hey, how about some action? I picked up the lens and returned to shoot a rock concert!
Really, it's not that hard! F1.4.
I focused while they were walking! Again, nothing you can't achieve with a bit of practice.
It also helps that I had a few M42 lenses for my A700 before, to practice...
Crazy rain. Yes, the lens got subjected to some inclement weather. 1/640s ISO6400.
The rain killed the generators, leaving the VIP tent in darkness! 1/20s ISO1600.
Woodstock baby! 1/20s ISO6400. I focused to 1 meter, then walked closer until they were in focus.
1/25s ISO1600. I pulled tones out of overexposed red faces to get this.
So the question everybody asks is this - is it worth it? Yes, definitely! It is a stark fraction of the price of an auto-focusing 85mm F1.4! It is great optically, with a decent amount of contrast. (I just have not compared it to the Sony Carl Zeiss Planar T* 85mm F1.4 ZA - something tells me that if I do, I will be haunted by it...)
Love this one.. sharp n the colour n warm for my liking i having both lens.... n LOVE THIS combination... they gonna be my favourite pair for wedding shooting of all time 50mm for the details. 1750 for the general...Not enough zoom.. i actually crop a little n is done.
Cool!! Thanks for sharing. I do really happy with my current 1750, hope can get this 50mm baby soon
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Manual focusing is not easy - you need to learn how to do it. However once mastered you can catch focus pretty quick!
100% crop.
Note that I was using the Sony FDA-FM1AM (A900 Type-M manual focusing screen) to help see depth of field accurately at F1.4. This lens is best used with a Sony Alpha 500/550 that has MF Check Live View, or an Alpha 850/900 fitted with the Type-M screen.
But hey, how about some action? I picked up the lens and returned to shoot a rock concert!
Really, it's not that hard! F1.4.
I focused while they were walking! Again, nothing you can't achieve with a bit of practice.
It also helps that I had a few M42 lenses for my A700 before, to practice...
Crazy rain. Yes, the lens got subjected to some inclement weather. 1/640s ISO6400.
The rain killed the generators, leaving the VIP tent in darkness! 1/20s ISO1600.
Woodstock baby! 1/20s ISO6400. I focused to 1 meter, then walked closer until they were in focus.
1/25s ISO1600. I pulled tones out of overexposed red faces to get this.
So the question everybody asks is this - is it worth it? Yes, definitely! It is a stark fraction of the price of an auto-focusing 85mm F1.4! It is great optically, with a decent amount of contrast. (I just have not compared it to the Sony Carl Zeiss Planar T* 85mm F1.4 ZA - something tells me that if I do, I will be haunted by it...)
nice sample shots there...it looked like the 85mm F1.4 DoF is similar to 135mm @F2 huh...and both of them r shallower than 50mm F1.4
what focusing screen is compatible with a300 cjlai...???how much does it cost to change it...???
i got 2 split image focusing screen..... but all need to cut/mod b4 can fit into a300.... n the cost is not cheap.... tat's y until now still sitting in the box
for me, i like my normal screen protector, give me more accurate color, sharpness and contrast that i need to view after shoot, well, this only my opinion.
i guess so far im alone goin Sigma 28mm route. The MFD seems tempting. Will be picking up from a forumer whose doing lens bulk in tradeZone sect. this weekend
50mm 1.7/1.8 is old news d, too cheap d... hahahha
haha .. i only have 1.8 one la .. now in mood to shopping again since bonus comes tomorrow .. .. might be another flash to pair with softbox/umbrella to setup my 1st ever photography home studio .. .. after that, UWA will be next .. ..
haha .. i only have 1.8 one la .. now in mood to shopping again since bonus comes tomorrow .. .. might be another flash to pair with softbox/umbrella to setup my 1st ever photography home studio .. .. after that, UWA will be next .. ..
yeah simple, its getting the tape to align and stick on the gold contacts that's the hardest bit..
@hazril, that's 3570 from you
yup i noe that...it's in good hands now...
Added on December 30, 2009, 1:00 am
QUOTE(cjlai @ Dec 29 2009, 09:42 PM)
i got 2 split image focusing screen..... but all need to cut/mod b4 can fit into a300.... n the cost is not cheap.... tat's y until now still sitting in the box
if A200 or A100 then is much easier
aiseh...thats the biggest problem la....was thinking to change my focusing screen when payday...huhuhu....
This post has been edited by hazril: Dec 30 2009, 01:00 AM
I've lost Sony DSLR a230 S/N: 2383240 and SAL 1.8 50mm S/N: 1814940 just now at Melaka Central
Time around 10.00 AM.
29/11/09
Go make a police report with ur receipts n warranty card all as prove of ownership. Then go to Sony center n give them a photocopy of the police report. They will block the unit for u if it ever comes in for servicing. That's what I did for my Sony VAIO last time n Sony Center was very cooperative.
Go make a police report with ur receipts n warranty card all as prove of ownership. Then go to Sony center n give them a photocopy of the police report. They will block the unit for u if it ever comes in for servicing. That's what I did for my Sony VAIO last time n Sony Center was very cooperative.
Really thanks for your advice bro I'll do it ASAP
Actually I'm going to KL to find lens.... but I found these :
just wan to ask that izzit normal for the sony service center to take more than 1 months to service the product?
it has been 1 month +++ my alpha went inside the 'hospital' and cant get out until now.
before i sent for repair of lcd but when it come back, everytime when i switch on the camera it got vibration. so i decide to sent back and ask them fix it. But it seems like never coming back after it goes in. T.T
just wan to ask that izzit normal for the sony service center to take more than 1 months to service the product?
it has been 1 month +++ my alpha went inside the 'hospital' and cant get out until now.
before i sent for repair of lcd but when it come back, everytime when i switch on the camera it got vibration. so i decide to sent back and ask them fix it. But it seems like never coming back after it goes in. T.T
didnt hv any experience on that coz still not send in any stuff yet for servicing. hope it wont happen ..
my bad exp with Sony is their website. fyi i had registered my slr products online to get d extension warranty, after arnd 6 mths i re-login again to register my new purchase products and to my suprise that all my previous items gone missing!! it just display an empty pg..
i think and hope Sony can do something on their system ...
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(albnok @ Dec 30 2009, 03:24 AM)
ianho, great tip! destfull, hope you get your camera back.
ieR: Yes, IQ from the lens is astounding!
wow, i smell 85mm on my wishlist... lol
used A550 for a wedding shoot, what a marvelous machine, improve WB, improve metering, super fast and accurate AF system!(this is what i need)... speechless, but i am still waiting for A7xx... wan the 'trigger WL with F58' mode and hope this time they implement the same WLsystem of A900 into it
QUOTE(hongyew @ Dec 30 2009, 09:49 AM)
Hey guys.. morning... =P
just wan to ask that izzit normal for the sony service center to take more than 1 months to service the product?
it has been 1 month +++ my alpha went inside the 'hospital' and cant get out until now.
before i sent for repair of lcd but when it come back, everytime when i switch on the camera it got vibration. so i decide to sent back and ask them fix it. But it seems like never coming back after it goes in. T.T
maybe it's the SSS broken? (thier faulty service?) that they need time to bring in a spare unit(whole sensor+SSS) from somewhere? sg no stock???
did they call u? usually when they reach your "case", and figure what's wrong/what to service, they will give u a call first to confirm with the proceed confirmation.
or perhaps its holiday season? 25 off, 26 off, half of the technician took whole week till 2nd Jan off... who knows, or christmas season and rainy season most damaged good send in for service. usually they are fast.
wanna ask something from all u guys here...cos i'll be buying an alpha dslr for my cousin sis tmr,wanna know abt the filter...jus say if its using the 1870 kit lens ,which filter is recommended?
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(coolio2199 @ Dec 30 2009, 01:58 PM)
wanna ask something from all u guys here...cos i'll be buying an alpha dslr for my cousin sis tmr,wanna know abt the filter...jus say if its using the 1870 kit lens ,which filter is recommended?
p/s : im hv no idea abt dslr.....
filter usually has few types and measure by diameter.
the kitlens should be using 55mm.
for the types, the common that used to protect the lens are Multicoated Filter (like ur spectacle MC lens)(some brand will brand it as UV filter but they are the same)
the price range from rm30 to rm300... octupus (around rm50) is a decent filter i suggest. or u can get the sony's CZ filter
destfull : Felt sorry for you, hope you got it back!
hongyew : Might be a dumb question. What kind of vibration? I thought there is always minute shake when turn on/off. Btw, my longest service for my camera was 3 weeks. That's when they replace 3 parts for my viewfinder.
coolio2199 : Can go any shop and ask. Fotokem should be able to give you at the price of RM 30. I got mine last time for RM 20 with the camera at Fotokem.
coolio2199, be careful about filter. There are a lot of Cap Ayam filter in the market and the shops will try to con as much as they can with it.
For SAL1870 filter, I wouldn't spend anything more than RM50.
True, but it's not easy to tell which is fake/original. Mine is Hoya, but not sure original or fake... didn't cause much focus hunting at indoors though.
1870 doesn't need a filter, if you use a cheap filter it will flare like crazy but if you use expensive one it seems like it wont make sense for such a cheap lens. Thus just don't use, I keep mine in the box after using for 2 months or just use the hood to protect it abit.
I just bought my second LCD hard cover last week for my A350 in Sony Centre Mid Valley. Other places out of stock. The first one got scratched and broken. Its useful and more protective as its hard. It all depnds how we handle our camera.
Welcome to A550 member I also a550 member, your body is 2 tone color or full black look like full black color
looks like A550 black model was the very first release version of the A550 series before October (As Japan and China had released it earlier during the end of September) as I ask many people about the black version of A550 was not available on Taiwan and other country but strangely in China and somehow Japan they are black color model .... ><
fansoption: it's zapfino lwliam: thx...ehm but i did not adjust the saturation settings in RAW...just the exposure...and for pic 4# i PP it to make it similar like lomography...trying to jinak jinak with photoshop...
fansoption: it's zapfino lwliam: thx...ehm but i did not adjust the saturation settings in RAW...just the exposure...and for pic 4# i PP it to make it similar like lomography...trying to jinak jinak with photoshop...
Nice series bro .. Well i like it Its the Zeiss ka ?
fansoption: it's zapfino lwliam: thx...ehm but i did not adjust the saturation settings in RAW...just the exposure...and for pic 4# i PP it to make it similar like lomography...trying to jinak jinak with photoshop...
hmm but overall your shooting was very redish color ....
fansoption: it's zapfino lwliam: thx...ehm but i did not adjust the saturation settings in RAW...just the exposure...and for pic 4# i PP it to make it similar like lomography...trying to jinak jinak with photoshop...
usually lomo is slightly towards greenish n yellowish..which i dont see in ur #4
he he im also kena racun lomo. my cousin had just bought one and show me some of her unusual but nicely captured pics.. kinnda weird for my eyes because the colors (lomo) are 'off' IMHO but i kindda like it
This post has been edited by freddy manson: Dec 30 2009, 07:05 PM
PUTRAJAYA, 30 Dis (Bernama) -- Fenomena gerhana bulan separa dijangka berlaku Jumaat ini, 1 Jan 2010 bersamaan dengan 15 Muharam 1431H bermula pukul 1.17 pagi hingga 5.28 pagi waktu tempatan.
Menurut kenyataan Jabatan Kemajuan Islam Malaysia (Jakim) hari ini, gerhana akan bermula dengan fasa penumbra pada pukul 1.17 pagi dan mencapai tahap gerhana maksimum pada pukul 3.24 pagi.
"Gerhana ini dijangka berakhir pada pukul 5.28 pagi. Gerhana yang jelas hanya dapat dilihat apabila bulan memasuki bayang umbra bumi iaitu dari pukul 2.53 pagi sehingga gerhana maksimum," kata kenyataan itu.
Sehubungan fenomena itu, masyarakat Islam digalakkan menunaikan solat sunat khusuf atau solat sunat gerhana bulan yang disertai dengan khutbah khas gerhana bulan, bersempena dengan kejadian gerhana bulan itu.
Ekoran gerhana yang berlaku semasa cuti sambutan tahun baru 2010, orang ramai dijemput hadir bagi menyaksikan fenomena alam semula jadi itu dan turut serta menunaikan solat sunat khusuf yang akan diadakan di Masjid Negara.
"Program yang merupakan anjuran bersama Masjid Negara, Jakim dan Agensi Angkasa Negara itu bertujuan meningkatkan tahap keimanan masyarakat Islam," kata Jakim.
also prevent camera shake on tripod without using 2 sec and 10 sec timer :3
i'm using one as well the name something call Yong Nuo...it serve me very well.. and i prefer this wireless remote that the A700 remote which my wireless will focus b4 shoot while the A700 no....
Camera Model - Sony Alpha A700 Lens - Minolta 50mm Exposure - 1/100s, f/8 @ 200 ISO
Camera Model - Sony Alpha A700 Lens - Minolta 50mm Exposure - 1/200s, f/10 @ 200 ISO
Camera Model - Sony Alpha A700 Lens - Minolta 50mm Exposure - 1/xx s, f/4 @ 200 ISO
All flash fired handheld wirelessly, no sharpening done in PP
nice leh..........
Added on December 30, 2009, 10:45 pmgot some questions... went to sony center in 1U just now... wat's the difference between 70-300 with G and without G? the price difference is huge.... and finally, i tested the A550... superb.... bt... i too noob dunno much lar, and the zoom is a little tight to me...
This post has been edited by eddybeh: Dec 30 2009, 10:45 PM
Added on December 30, 2009, 10:45 pmgot some questions... went to sony center in 1U just now... wat's the difference between 70-300 with G and without G? the price difference is huge.... and finally, i tested the A550... superb.... bt... i too noob dunno much lar, and the zoom is a little tight to me...
G series only got one 70300....i think tht without G is 75300.... the difference is the price and IQ...
i'm using one as well the name something call Yong Nuo...it serve me very well.. and i prefer this wireless remote that the A700 remote which my wireless will focus b4 shoot while the A700 no....
the standard A700 remote, do focus before the shutter fires. under dim light the other day, on my tripod, after pressing on the remote, i can hear the cam *zrrr zrrr* then only it snaps
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
freddy manson: erm, the fisheye photos are from me...??? u mistaken it from finejava?
finejava: bro, when i first saw it, i was like, wow, so red... and i tot i have problem with my christmas present... (new 24" LCD), and i adjusted my lcd to ur picture calibration.. duhhh, i am so wrong...
there is 2 red for such redish photo if u think u shoot at normally. 1. the ceiling is red, bounced down back red, causing everything to be tinted red (which i doubt) 2. CZ lens with creative mode +?+?+?.... if u are using CZ, best is to set ur creative mode to standard +0 +0 +0, even a little +1 will throw the color off to vivid color (but it is still subjective to personal choice and liking) cz is beautiful as it is at +0 +0 +?
Added on December 30, 2009, 11:00 pm
QUOTE(lwliam @ Dec 30 2009, 10:51 PM)
the standard A700 remote, do focus before the shutter fires. under dim light the other day, on my tripod, after pressing on the remote, i can hear the cam *zrrr zrrr* then only it snaps
under dim light? does the AF illu lite up?
This post has been edited by ieR: Dec 30 2009, 11:00 PM
LoL.. Im currently using the aputure wireless remote, works great. Why ask?
Wireless is great if you want to take group shot and doesnt want to wait for 10 secs which frustrate everyone . LOL
Nice. Yours is the radio frequency ones ya? Saw at shashinki the IR ones. Kinda interesting. Going to vacation with my wife. So at least need a few picture of us together. Been 'out of frame' for quite a while already
freddy manson: erm, the fisheye photos are from me...??? u mistaken it from finejava?
finejava: bro, when i first saw it, i was like, wow, so red... and i tot i have problem with my christmas present... (new 24" LCD), and i adjusted my lcd to ur picture calibration.. duhhh, i am so wrong...
there is 2 red for such redish photo if u think u shoot at normally. 1. the ceiling is red, bounced down back red, causing everything to be tinted red (which i doubt) 2. CZ lens with creative mode +?+?+?.... if u are using CZ, best is to set ur creative mode to standard +0 +0 +0, even a little +1 will throw the color off to vivid color (but it is still subjective to personal choice and liking) cz is beautiful as it is at +0 +0 +?
Added on December 30, 2009, 11:00 pm
under dim light? does the AF illu lite up?
ieR: i believe the reddish is due to 1. as all the deco in the house is red in color and all my settings is standard...
nice leh.......... Added on December 30, 2009, 10:45 pmgot some questions... went to sony center in 1U just now... wat's the difference between 70-300 with G and without G? the price difference is huge.... and finally, i tested the A550... superb.... bt... i too noob dunno much lar, and the zoom is a little tight to me...
in ur geavity siggy got bower 0.42x fisheye (extension) so boleh dpt mata-ikan style he he he~ nvm.. later can see more pics lah from u.. if u're shooting raw then u can spend some time 'correcting' the reddish pics above
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
finejava : ohh, it could be i always watch out for color ceiling, lucky it's just red, acceptable color, if green, i cant imagine my set of photo turn green~... lol
freddy manson: my bad, just saw the geavity, hahahaha >>> finejave faster show us ur fisheye!
in ur geavity siggy got bower 0.42x fisheye (extension) so boleh dpt mata-ikan style he he he~ nvm.. later can see more pics lah from u.. if u're shooting raw then u can spend some time 'correcting' the reddish pics above
ohh...itu bower ah...honestly...i've bought it...but never used it...let me try it out then...
Nice. Yours is the radio frequency ones ya? Saw at shashinki the IR ones. Kinda interesting. Going to vacation with my wife. So at least need a few picture of us together. Been 'out of frame' for quite a while already
How much roughly is that? I got mine around Rm 100 from soulfly.. I do agree with your last sentence. but provided that you got bring a tripod for your own la.
maybe it's the SSS broken? (thier faulty service?) that they need time to bring in a spare unit(whole sensor+SSS) from somewhere? sg no stock???
did they call u? usually when they reach your "case", and figure what's wrong/what to service, they will give u a call first to confirm with the proceed confirmation.
or perhaps its holiday season? 25 off, 26 off, half of the technician took whole week till 2nd Jan off... who knows, or christmas season and rainy season most damaged good send in for service. usually they are fast.
haha.... i sent to the shop that i buy with and ask them sent for me... which i request them to give me d service number easier for me to track the service status but they failed to do so.. aiks... =P
erm.. i sent to service about end of november, i belive that begining of dec didnt hav any holidays gua...
going for holiday this weekend, with no camera... haha.. wat to do. fate.
QUOTE(wha7ever @ Dec 30 2009, 02:40 PM)
hongyew : Might be a dumb question. What kind of vibration? I thought there is always minute shake when turn on/off. Btw, my longest service for my camera was 3 weeks. That's when they replace 3 parts for my viewfinder. .
It's vibration about same as phone when we put in silent mode and it last for about hm.... 5 sec... =P
sory ya. not so pro in explanation. =P
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
QUOTE(lwliam @ Dec 30 2009, 09:50 PM)
Camera Model - Sony Alpha A700 Lens - Minolta 50mm Exposure - 1/100s, f/8 @ 200 ISO
Camera Model - Sony Alpha A700 Lens - Minolta 50mm Exposure - 1/200s, f/10 @ 200 ISO
Camera Model - Sony Alpha A700 Lens - Minolta 50mm Exposure - 1/xx s, f/4 @ 200 ISO
All flash fired handheld wirelessly, no sharpening done in PP
I like these pics... =P
This post has been edited by hongyew: Dec 30 2009, 11:31 PM
freddy manson: erm, the fisheye photos are from me...??? u mistaken it from finejava?
finejava: bro, when i first saw it, i was like, wow, so red... and i tot i have problem with my christmas present... (new 24" LCD), and i adjusted my lcd to ur picture calibration.. duhhh, i am so wrong...
there is 2 red for such redish photo if u think u shoot at normally. 1. the ceiling is red, bounced down back red, causing everything to be tinted red (which i doubt) 2. CZ lens with creative mode +?+?+?.... if u are using CZ, best is to set ur creative mode to standard +0 +0 +0, even a little +1 will throw the color off to vivid color (but it is still subjective to personal choice and liking) cz is beautiful as it is at +0 +0 +?
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
finejava: take out the bower and try it...
actually it's really vivid (strong saturation) but nothing wrong, if u like it, it's okay, since christmas to me, must got strong red and green~
Uzumaki NaruTo: 8mm fisheye can self potrait
lwliam: confirm got AF... i mean, the camera can set shutter piority on AF or release... if release, i think it fire straight away with AF confirmation
actually it's really vivid (strong saturation) but nothing wrong, if u like it, it's okay, since christmas to me, must got strong red and green~
Uzumaki NaruTo: 8mm fisheye can self potrait
lwliam: confirm got AF... i mean, the camera can set shutter piority on AF or release... if release, i think it fire straight away with AF confirmation
i dun have the kit lens with me now...the bower is a 55mm...
actually it's really vivid (strong saturation) but nothing wrong, if u like it, it's okay, since christmas to me, must got strong red and green~
Uzumaki NaruTo: 8mm fisheye can self potrait
lwliam: confirm got AF... i mean, the camera can set shutter piority on AF or release... if release, i think it fire straight away with AF confirmation
yeah, that's what i meant earlier... that there is AF confirmation even when using remote..
p/s: i've just reconfirmed it using my cam, deliberately defocus the lens, then press remote, lens AF, then snap
hh crap... planning to upgrade to it, but now making me dissapointing
Why disappointed? So what if ISO 200? It's using a CMOS sensor which in simple english, means it can produce brighter images compared to CCD sensors found in the a100~a380. (:
hh crap... planning to upgrade to it, but now making me dissapointing
while everyone's looking at the high ISO range, why is not having ISO100 a disappointment for you? its ISO200 is just as clean as an ISO100 on many other bodies that does provide ISO100.
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
iso200 is not a problem, they double up the shutterspeed(1 stop up) of A550 limit to compasate the lack of iso100 (1 stop down)
Added on December 30, 2009, 11:52 pmbtw, i am not sure my info is correct or not, D90 also native iso200, the so called Lo mode is the chip processing, meaning it shoot at iso200, process by the expeed to darken it by 1 F stop equil~ to iso100
just the A550 lack of processing to iso100~
This post has been edited by ieR: Dec 30 2009, 11:53 PM
iso200 is not a problem, they double up the shutterspeed(1 stop up) of A550 limit to compasate the lack of iso100 (1 stop down)
Added on December 30, 2009, 11:52 pmbtw, i am not sure my info is correct or not, D90 also native iso200, the so called Lo mode is the chip processing, meaning it shoot at iso200, process by the expeed to darken it by 1 F stop equil! to iso100
just the A550 lack of processing to iso100~
so its still a good buy right? getting it tomolo say bb to my a300 XD
hh crap... planning to upgrade to it, but now making me dissapointing
beware of "crap". somebody just very sensitive to that word.
Most of the CMOS sensor are based at ISO200. Some higher end have ISO50 / ISO100 by the extension function.. which is like they over exposed the pic and bring down the curve.. the effect is: the Pic is less dynamic compare to shoot with ISO200.
This post has been edited by hkhk: Dec 30 2009, 11:56 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
my experience with my 8mm fisheye
as stated, 8mm is really really really really really wide, so wide that sometimes it's hard to control. and u have to stand to close to the subject just to make a tight frame... which u become the big block of wall infront of others.
take a look what it does to a hall....
and this
it just grab everything, literally everything, and it would become so difficult if i would have 2 more photographer walking around, capturing them into the frame. take this as example, bad shot, capturing other photographer into the frame... i wish to move closer, but i cant, because the table+TV(u see the black box there?) is blocking me but lucky for me, due to the ultra wwwwidddeeeeee-ness of it, flash dont really lit up the whole photo, just the center or the closest subject, thus making the background dark...
as i posted earlier in the thread, i loved this shot a lot
it made me looked like i have to float 5 meter in the air for this shot, in fact, it's just a meter above the table.
i jsut took these photo last night, i must be really crazy and daring to actually used a FishEye for a wedding job.... lol, will pass the work to the couple tomolo, finger crossed. hope they aren't dissapointed.
This post has been edited by ieR: Dec 31 2009, 12:00 AM
i jsut took these photo last night, i must be really crazy and daring to actually used a FishEye for a wedding job.... lol, will pass the work to the couple tomolo, finger crossed. hope they aren't dissapointed.
how come they'll be disappointed with all those beautiful shots?
i jsut took these photo last night, i must be really crazy and daring to actually used a FishEye for a wedding job.... lol, will pass the work to the couple tomolo, finger crossed. hope they aren't dissapointed.
ieR, well, the downside is just the pics show too much.. some time ppl would like for 'just us' focus.. and oh.. can PP kah the other photog's in the pics? ha ha ha.. kasi hilang mereka dari gambar2 itu...
ieR, its ok to have those effect shots, but do not overwhelm the client with tonnes of shots like that. in an album, about 5-6 shots like that give more wow effect than 15-20 shots, it gets a bit mundane after that, i guess u know what i mean
fisheye can be abit painful to the eye. anyway, what are the UWA lenses for aps-c bodies? are wide lenses the same for FF and APS-C ? (i would think not).
Uwa Sal 1118 lah ..
QUOTE(vandechrome @ Dec 31 2009, 12:17 AM)
fuiyo..makin dahsyat la u...
tp still takle lawan sifu yg drag me deeper into this world ..
This post has been edited by noprob: Dec 31 2009, 12:30 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(freddy manson @ Dec 31 2009, 12:13 AM)
ieR, well, the downside is just the pics show too much.. some time ppl would like for 'just us' focus.. and oh.. can PP kah the other photog's in the pics? ha ha ha.. kasi hilang mereka dari gambar2 itu...
can, but a lot of work, but can be cropped easily, wide photo always have the space to crop...
QUOTE(lwliam @ Dec 31 2009, 12:16 AM)
ieR, its ok to have those effect shots, but do not overwhelm the client with tonnes of shots like that. in an album, about 5-6 shots like that give more wow effect than 15-20 shots, it gets a bit mundane after that, i guess u know what i mean
yup, i get u, learning to push this fisheye lens now, understand it, how it work, how it perform etc, so next time, dont need scratch head when shooting with it,..
ianho: Not that great; anyway my Tamron has gotten gear stripping after I put 2 teleconverters on it one night. No replacement parts unfortunately. The 200-400mm becomes easier to use on the 200mm end especially for concerts (200mm on APS-C was too long sometimes.)
I just use my new A550 to shoot at night using ISO 6400...
I believe most A550 will leave their flash at home while jalan2
Seriously damn nice
But having A550 as first cam that have liveview is nice too.. for past few days I'm using it for 90% of shots..
Also, after I play for a while with this cam, I can say that my previous cam that just lost yesterday (sony a230) is *****
You'll have a better grip, balance weight, looks so handsome when paired with my new SAL 18-250.
Still don't have much time to play with its HDR and DRO..
Also, its machine gun (7fps) is really nice! So don't terkejut if you saw 1 month using Sony a550 hav 6k shutter count
Now, I need to poison myself to keep this cam coz I bought it after loosing previous cam just to shoot my cousin'2 wedding this saturday. Still needing MBP more than this cam. Err anyone wanna buy this cam if I decide to sell it?
Btw, this cam is really nice so far! No weakspot other than small viewfinder..
Its menu also really nice as I choose it over D90 coz of that actually. (I'm a web designer btw, so a bit cerewet this part )
Need to be familiar with a lot of button now compare to a230 which is so miskin coz dont have as much button as this
This post has been edited by destfull: Dec 31 2009, 08:51 AM
Also, after I play for a while with this cam, I can say that my previous cam that just lost yesterday (sony a230) is rubbish
wah no good la badmouthing ur old cam. habis manis sepah di buang, eh?
QUOTE(destfull @ Dec 31 2009, 04:45 AM)
Also, its machine gun (7fps) is really nice! So don't terkejut if you saw 1 month using Sony a550 hav 6k shutter count
what can u possibly shot that much using the 7fps mode? a lot of sports?
QUOTE(destfull @ Dec 31 2009, 04:45 AM)
Now, I need to poison myself to keep this cam coz I bought it after loosing previous cam just to shoot my cousin'2 wedding this saturday. Still needing MBP more than this cam. Err anyone wanna buy this cam if I decide to sell it?
QUOTE(destfull @ Dec 31 2009, 04:45 AM)
Need to be familiar with a lot of button now compare to a230 which is so miskin coz dont have as much button as this
the term is, a lot of buttons but when u didnt know how to utilize, is called 'miskin'..
wah no good la badmouthing ur old cam. habis manis sepah di buang, eh? what can u possibly shot that much using the 7fps mode? a lot of sports? the term is, a lot of buttons but when u didnt know how to utilize, is called 'miskin'..
1. Nope Just want to make my heart feel better after I lost my cam
2. I can shoot candid much better and choose the best moment!
3. Interested? But I'm selling all with my lens
4. No, I mean a230 is "miskin" of button.. hahaha
p/s: btw, who is the demit guy who submit A550 pics to Geavity?
This post has been edited by destfull: Dec 31 2009, 06:25 AM
2. I can shoot candid much better and choose the best moment!
3. Interested? But I'm selling all with my lens
2. ha ha candid using 7fps mode? that's new.. he he he it's like using a sniper and shooting at 7bps (bullets per second? LOL) 3. haiz, loving my A350 soo much. just bough two 50mm lens (f1.7 and f2.8 EX DG macro)
Wondering also... coz those things are real hard wooo...
QUOTE(lwliam @ Dec 30 2009, 09:50 PM)
Camera Model - Sony Alpha A700 Lens - Minolta 50mm Exposure - 1/100s, f/8 @ 200 ISO
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Camera Model - Sony Alpha A700 Lens - Minolta 50mm Exposure - 1/200s, f/10 @ 200 ISO
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Camera Model - Sony Alpha A700 Lens - Minolta 50mm Exposure - 1/xx s, f/4 @ 200 ISO
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All flash fired handheld wirelessly, no sharpening done in PP
DUDEEEE.... damn nice sets woooo... seriously sharp! how you do? nice wooo...
QUOTE(ieR @ Dec 31 2009, 12:09 AM)
well, some customer has high expectation...
Hehehe... I know what you mean... some are even higher...
QUOTE(eddybeh @ Dec 31 2009, 12:32 AM)
wow.... after reading some articles about lens.... i start to feel the poison of Sony AF 50 F1.4.....
just wait till you poison yourself with the 35mm f1.4G or the 85mm f1.4 Zeiss.... then you'll be even more poisoned!
QUOTE(destfull @ Dec 31 2009, 04:45 AM)
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Wei, A550 is farking hot!
I just use my new A550 to shoot at night using ISO 6400...
I believe most A550 will leave their flash at home while jalan2
Seriously damn nice
But having A550 as first cam that have liveview is nice too.. for past few days I'm using it for 90% of shots..
Also, after I play for a while with this cam, I can say that my previous cam that just lost yesterday (sony a230) is rubbish
You'll have a better grip, balance weight, looks so handsome when paired with my new SAL 18-250.
Still don't have much time to play with its HDR and DRO..
Also, its machine gun (7fps) is really nice! So don't terkejut if you saw 1 month using Sony a550 hav 6k shutter count
Now, I need to poison myself to keep this cam coz I bought it after loosing previous cam just to shoot my cousin'2 wedding this saturday. Still needing MBP more than this cam. Err anyone wanna buy this cam if I decide to sell it?
Btw, this cam is really nice so far! No weakspot other than small viewfinder..
Its menu also really nice as I choose it over D90 coz of that actually. (I'm a web designer btw, so a bit cerewet this part)
Need to be familiar with a lot of button now compare to a230 which is so miskin coz dont have as much button as this
dude... cannot say your a230 is rubbish la... it's what you started out with... hehehe... cherish the moment you've spent with it... btw, already made the police report?
QUOTE(destfull @ Dec 31 2009, 07:03 AM)
Yeah, I like taking picture of people laughing, got many children and kids in my great family and of course, cats Every second counts
as stated, 8mm is really really really really really wide, so wide that sometimes it's hard to control. and u have to stand to close to the subject just to make a tight frame... which u become the big block of wall infront of others.
take a look what it does to a hall....
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and this
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it just grab everything, literally everything, and it would become so difficult if i would have 2 more photographer walking around, capturing them into the frame. take this as example, bad shot, capturing other photographer into the frame... i wish to move closer, but i cant, because the table+TV(u see the black box there?) is blocking me
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but lucky for me, due to the ultra wwwwidddeeeeee-ness of it, flash dont really lit up the whole photo, just the center or the closest subject, thus making the background dark...
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as i posted earlier in the thread, i loved this shot a lot
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it made me looked like i have to float 5 meter in the air for this shot, in fact, it's just a meter above the table.
i jsut took these photo last night, i must be really crazy and daring to actually used a FishEye for a wedding job.... lol, will pass the work to the couple tomolo, finger crossed. hope they aren't dissapointed.
nice , where it is dude ? it's look familiar to me ... T?n?m?s Hotel ?
This post has been edited by likito: Dec 31 2009, 10:19 AM
as stated, 8mm is really really really really really wide, so wide that sometimes it's hard to control. and u have to stand to close to the subject just to make a tight frame... which u become the big block of wall infront of others.
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take a look what it does to a hall....
and this
it just grab everything, literally everything, and it would become so difficult if i would have 2 more photographer walking around, capturing them into the frame. take this as example, bad shot, capturing other photographer into the frame... i wish to move closer, but i cant, because the table+TV(u see the black box there?) is blocking me but lucky for me, due to the ultra wwwwidddeeeeee-ness of it, flash dont really lit up the whole photo, just the center or the closest subject, thus making the background dark...
as i posted earlier in the thread, i loved this shot a lot
it made me looked like i have to float 5 meter in the air for this shot, in fact, it's just a meter above the table.
i jsut took these photo last night, i must be really crazy and daring to actually used a FishEye for a wedding job.... lol, will pass the work to the couple tomolo, finger crossed. hope they aren't dissapointed.
Is it difficult to focus with fish-eye? cos the photos are not sharp and also some how doesnot look "clean" & under exposed IMHO.
n/b: I never had a fisheye lense before.
This post has been edited by Banzai_san: Dec 31 2009, 01:29 PM
How much roughly is that? I got mine around Rm 100 from soulfly.. I do agree with your last sentence. but provided that you got bring a tripod for your own la.
Yeah planning to pair it up with a decent tripod . All the photos got my wife only. Everybody ask where's me
QUOTE(ieR @ Dec 30 2009, 11:31 PM)
finejava: take out the bower and try it...
actually it's really vivid (strong saturation) but nothing wrong, if u like it, it's okay, since christmas to me, must got strong red and green~
Uzumaki NaruTo: 8mm fisheye can self potrait
lwliam: confirm got AF... i mean, the camera can set shutter piority on AF or release... if release, i think it fire straight away with AF confirmation
landscape not necessary in UWA form , if u wanna sponsor me , i wont stop u btw , thx for comment
sori la likito bro. No budget for sponsorship...
Actually your pix #2, somehow my attention keep drawing to the partial picture of the stilt house... wishing to see more of the stilt house ie not enough width. That was why I mentioned the UWA
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2.
btw, thanks for sharing the pixs. Where did you snap the sceneries?
This post has been edited by Banzai_san: Dec 31 2009, 05:34 PM
landscape not necessary in UWA form , if u wanna sponsor me , i wont stop u btw , thx for comment
ya...but mostly are using UWA...but zoom lens can create compressed perspective...it is another story.... so ur 28mm on apsc machine equivalent to 42mm on FF...means it is standard focal length which create street-shot like photos...
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
Banzai_san: it's a FULL manual lens so u have to set the aperture urself(*edit: turning the aperture ring dail urself, it do not connect to the camera, so the camera exif will always show F1), shutter speed urself, and manual focus.
it is not difficult once u catch the idea... and thanks to albnok during april's gathering, he poison and taught me bout his peleng fisheye that i learned to much.
it doesnt not look clean because of the hall is lowlight, high ceiling(bad for flash), and i am force to use F3.5 (the fullsize photo are not sharp) and shutter speed of 1/10 (some photo i did not fire flash, like photo #1 and #2, prone to shakes) sometimes, i forgot to refocus(from infinite to 1 meter) before shutter release or vice versa. it will be sharp after F8, really sharp (see below photo for naruto)
for the exposure, well, as i mention, 8mm is super godly wide, the flash head is design to fire at 16mm(FF format) widest at direct with wide panel flipped out. do the maths and u will know that the flash will unable to brighten up the whole photo . but as long as the subject is properly lit, it pass. there are ways method to lit up the whole area... that is more to flash knowledge
later i write up a little details bout how to use fish eye...
Uzumaki NaruTo: self portrait
likito: common shooting sytle of landscape is to have the horinzontal dead center. it's not wrong, but not really impressive way, because, it's too common. push ur head/idea further by shooting at low angle, 1/3sea 2/3 sky (for wider sky if the cloud are nice, or sunset color), or 2/3sea 1/3sky(if there is something interesting on the sea)
u have interesting subject and landscape, too bad u shot too dead center, else it will be even more impressive!
This post has been edited by ieR: Dec 31 2009, 05:43 PM
Actually your pix #2, somehow my attention keep drawing to the partial picture of the stilt house... wishing to see more of the stilt house ie not enough width. That was why I mentioned the UWA
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2.
btw, thanks for sharing the pixs. Where did you snap the sceneries?
that was shoot at johor , abt the stilt house , i have no comment , cos i wanna present the parital of house + sky + sea + boat . that was the picture in my mind . if zoom out , the house will be smaller and include more background , may be that is another great view .
likito: common shooting sytle of landscape is to have the horinzontal dead center. it's not wrong, but not really impressive way, because, it's too common. push ur head/idea further by shooting at low angle, 1/3sea 2/3 sky (for wider sky if the cloud are nice, or sunset color), or 2/3sea 1/3sky(if there is something interesting on the sea)
u have interesting subject and landscape, too bad u shot too dead center, else it will be even more impressive!
that was shoot at johor , abt the stilt house , i have no comment , cos i wanna present the parital of house + sky + sea + boat . that was the picture in my mind . if zoom out , the house will be smaller and include more background , may be that is another great view .
any1 looking for 50mm 1.8? .. I am thinking of selling it .. bought about 3 months plus .. I never use it .. less than 50 shots .. it just collecting dust in my bag .. offer me via pm .. .. thanks
Let's all swamp to Sony's 1st Alpha Pro Shop. Here's the actual (unedited) content of the SMS received
QUOTE
Your are invited to attend Grand Opening of 1st Sony Alpha Pro Shop in Malaysia at Studio Zaloon Pudu Plaza.date-09/01/2010.We have lucky draw & attractive doorgifts.detail call mr.chin.
I also took the opportunity to compare it to the Sony Carl Zeiss Planar T* 85mm F1.4 ZA - something I may not want to do in fear of finding my lens inferior. Fortunately, it wasn't the case... strongly. Here's the Opteka 85mm F1.4 focused to 1 meter, its minimum focusing distance.
The Zeiss 85mm F1.4, however, magnifies a lot more because:
1) it can focus to 85cm close 2) it has external focus
Internal focus lenses tend to widen the angle of view, thus causing lesser magnification.
For example, the Sony 135mm F2.8/T4.5 Smooth Transition Focus lens focuses to 87cm close, giving a 1:4x maximum magnification. It is an external focus lens.
The Sony Carl Zeiss Sonnar T* 135mm F1.8 ZA can focus to 72cm close... so logically, it should be able to get closer and get a better magnification, right? However, as it is internal focus, its angle of view widens at close range, and so it gets the same 1:4x maximum magnification as the STF!
So, there are benefits to external focus lenses.
Size-wise they are quite similiar. Both use 72mm filter threads.
The Zeiss hood can literally eat the Opteka hood!
And how about a portrait comparison? Opteka 85mm F1.4 at F1.4 1/100s ISO800.
Here's the same thing from the Zeiss at the same settings.
Honestly, at a glance, the overall contrast looks very similiar! Also, the Opteka is very capable of picking up ambient colors the way the Zeiss does. Please pardon that the Opteka has a slightly different focus plane.
It is only when you start pixel-peeping that you see why the Zeiss costs 4 times the price... this is a 100% crop from the Opteka. It is pretty sharp wide open!
However, this is a 100% crop from the Zeiss! The keyword here is microcontrast - it has far more contrasty details.
I would say that after this exercise, I understood what the Zeiss microcontrast thing was all about. The Opteka is really 80% of the Zeiss, for 25% the price!
I also tried the Opteka on the Sony Alpha 550 - this used MF Check Live View. Works great even at 7x zoom (14x zoom is a bit too shaky for a 85mm lens.)
Accuracy even at no zoom using MF Check LV was pretty good!
However, when I tried to use the Quick AF Live View mode, manual-focusing using the LCD, it just seemed to be off all the time. However I could notice a slight sharpening happening in Quick AF Live View mode.
Finally, don't fear the 1 meter minimum focusing distance - you can dismount the lens and turn it the other way around. You can even control the aperture using the aperture ring!
It gives about 70mm for a 36mm-wide sensor, or 1:1.94x maximum magnification.
In other news, there might be a Samyang 35mm F1.4:
I would buy that no questions asked! Knowing the obscene quality of the Samyang 85mm F1.4 you can bet the 35mm is going to be a winner. Since it is a full-frame wide-angle it should have a better MFD than the Sigma 30mm F1.4's mediocre 40cm. (The Sigma looks nice on FF despite the vignetting!)
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It is only when you start pixel-peeping that you see why the Zeiss costs 4 times the price... this is a 100% crop from the Opteka. It is pretty sharp wide open!
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However, this is a 100% crop from the Zeiss! The keyword here is microcontrast - it has far more contrasty details.
I would say that after this exercise, I understood what the Zeiss microcontrast thing was all about. The Opteka is really 80% of the Zeiss, for 25% the price!
@albnok i think the mustache on the 2nd pic looks purple-ish... it that wat u mean by microcontrast ?
This post has been edited by cjlai: Jan 1 2010, 06:14 AM
Finally, don't fear the 1 meter minimum focusing distance - you can dismount the lens and turn it the other way around. You can even control the aperture using the aperture ring!
It gives about 70mm for a 36mm-wide sensor, or 1:1.94x maximum magnification.
Ya wei lets go to Zaloon on the 9th and TT after that la. (: Was at Solaris Mont Kiara last night for countdown and saw some one using a900 + VG + 70-400G. (:
gackleong, get the zeiss package only....althought the extra 80-105 helps but i have tested the zeiss the colour n contrast really diff..... btw i have a550 + 16-105 waiting more moola get zeiss...and happy new year 2010 all, my first photoshot of 2010 and also my first time in fireworks....
gackleong, get the zeiss package only....althought the extra 80-105 helps but i have tested the zeiss the colour n contrast really diff..... btw i have a550 + 16-105 waiting more moola get zeiss...and happy new year 2010 all, my first photoshot of 2010 and also my first time in fireworks....
i oso wish to get the 1680cz too but out of budget, poor student here i get the offer for a550+16-105 at rm4050
i read some reviews that the 16105 performance comparing wif the cz is like bwm525 vs bwm530
Happy New Year Dear Bro And Sis Of The Orange Legion! May this year bring more upgrades and more yummy lenses!
QUOTE(albnok @ Jan 1 2010, 05:54 AM)
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I also tried the Opteka on the Sony Alpha 550 - this used MF Check Live View. Works great even at 7x zoom (14x zoom is a bit too shaky for a 85mm lens.)
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Accuracy even at no zoom using MF Check LV was pretty good!
However, when I tried to use the Quick AF Live View mode, manual-focusing using the LCD, it just seemed to be off all the time. However I could notice a slight sharpening happening in Quick AF Live View mode.
Finally, don't fear the 1 meter minimum focusing distance - you can dismount the lens and turn it the other way around. You can even control the aperture using the aperture ring!
It gives about 70mm for a 36mm-wide sensor, or 1:1.94x maximum magnification.
In other news, there might be a Samyang 35mm F1.4:
I would buy that no questions asked! Knowing the obscene quality of the Samyang 85mm F1.4 you can bet the 35mm is going to be a winner. Since it is a full-frame wide-angle it should have a better MFD than the Sigma 30mm F1.4's mediocre 40cm. (The Sigma looks nice on FF despite the vignetting!)
Albert, where to get the Opteka 85mm f1.4? And how much?
This post has been edited by Braynumb: Jan 1 2010, 03:56 PM
Can anyone suggest a good book digital photography? Im not seeking for a very basic book... but a more intermediate level.
Things I need to grasp are such as: 1- lens's focus distance - whats the significant /effect in our photo shot. 2- magnification eg 1:1, 1:4 etc... what significant in our shooting. 3- macro photography 4- flash photography 5- WB settings and anomalies such as in a bright purple / red surrounding etc and other tips and tricks of digital photography. etc
Can anyone suggest a good book digital photography? Im not seeking for a very basic book... but a more intermediate level.
Things I need to grasp are such as: 1- lens's focus distance - whats the significant /effect in our photo shot. 2- magnification eg 1:1, 1:4 etc... what significant in our shooting. 3- macro photography 4- flash photography 5- WB settings and anomalies such as in a bright purple / red surrounding etc and other tips and tricks of digital photography. etc
oh yes, also on fisheye
Book wrote by Michael Freeman or Tom Ang or Scott Kelby or Joe McNally should be good one to read.
This post has been edited by Ranceed: Jan 1 2010, 05:20 PM
My first post here. Taken from my colleague's apartment balcony:
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this is nice but i think there's too many smoke oredi.... u sh only take the 1st few blast n keep ur camera away to enjoy watching the fireworks.....
QUOTE(albnok @ Jan 1 2010, 03:38 PM)
cjlai: No, the blackness and crispiness is microcontrast. The Zeiss has a bit of purplish fringing as a downside.
Congratulations on your coming haul!
Kul | Mo0: I hope you got a picture and shook his/her hand! I really have not heard of any KL person with the Sony 70-400mm F4-5.6G SSM!
Zeiss is sharper on the 100% crop.... T* coatings help to reduce flare and increase contrast.... but i dun like the fringing....
just found this.... An additional Zeiss-exclusive coating, P* Phase Correction Coating, is applied to Roof Prisms to correct color fringing..... i think they din apply this on the sal85f14z....
can't wait to get my hand on it.... especially the 85mm .... so i can start moding it with the AF confirm chip
QUOTE(Braynumb @ Jan 1 2010, 03:56 PM)
Happy New Year Dear Bro And Sis Of The Orange Legion! May this year bring more upgrades and more yummy lenses! Albert, where to get the Opteka 85mm f1.4? And how much?
check my sales thread
QUOTE(gacktleong @ Jan 1 2010, 04:48 PM)
hmmm, convinced by fren by his 18-250 as he just bring 1 lens going out all the time...
making me hard to make the decision between 18250 and 16-105 should i go for wider n sharper lens or the longer zoom lens for multi purpose?
it cracking my head...
if u like landscape u sh get the wider lens... 105mm oso can use as multi purpose.... just u think not long enuff can try adding tele converter to it later
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(albnok @ Jan 1 2010, 03:20 AM)
ieR: Nice, you need to get the fisheye closer though as there is often too much space.
yea, that is when the other 2 person who covers the wedding goes hahahaaha, but sometimes when u go too near, the perception get distorted, face big, body small... at some point is nice, but most of the time, badddd... (i shot a lot with big face, small body, and it looked, urggg... paiseh to show my friends too... will learn to use that lens more, it's really really really nice lens... very fun to play with, and it has been attach to my A300 for 1 month already, other lens just stay in drybox to grow fungus hahahaha) and i am a little heartbroken at the point, everyday i got home, i need to clean it, and... constant wiping on the lens's is not a solution, i will get it scratch someday~~ need to find something to protect it
QUOTE(nashakir @ Jan 1 2010, 08:55 PM)
but u r doing self portrait.. how u see through the viewfinder?
8mm, is.. well, as i mention, godly wide... the aperture is a ring u turn ON the lens, not in the camera, use M mode, set the shutter speed at 1/10-1/60 depending how u wan to shoot it (F8 is kinda dark actually)
the self portrait photo, if i recall, it is shot at F8, 1/60, flash power at 1/16 direct with wide panel on. and focus at 1meter (the DOF would be around 0.5m to at least "20meter??" so u get max sharpness overall photo)
QUOTE(signither @ Jan 1 2010, 10:03 PM)
lol.. was at the wrong spot for fireworks yesterday:
no, i think is beautiful... coz, well, not a common shot and it tells a good story of it's own. (and i loved it)
albnok : He was standing quite some distance from me. Confirm its either a a900 or a850. And about the lens. I'm 80% sure it's a 70-400G. It's not white so it's not the 70-200G and it's not black and it's abit greyish silver. Got other lens that colour meh?
Nashakir: On my Peleng 8mm F3.5 circular fisheye, I only ever, really set 3 different distances:
0.3m - when the lens is pointing at myself at shorter than arm's length and trying to fill up 50% with a face. You can see ieR's earlier shot had his hand extended too far so there's a lot of space - after some practice you know what distance to hold out the camera and lens.
1m - when the lens is pointing at a performer and getting a full body shot.
2m - when the lens is taking architecture.
Everything else is covered by the amazing depth of field.
signither: I quite like that shot! Makes it far more interesting. But I think you knew that LOL.
XOFTXEMIT: Welcome!
ieR: Well you might end up using the fisheye on people who love it. Point it at people, and see if they go "FISHEYE!" If they do, you have permission to distort.
Kul | Mo0: There are old Vivitar lenses that are silver with AF.
Far left is a Cosina 19-35mm F3.5-4.5 in KAF-mount.
Clearer shot next to my Seagull 50mm F1.8 (used on my Fujifilm Digital Q1 IR camera.)
Nashakir: On my Peleng 8mm F3.5 circular fisheye, I only ever, really set 3 different distances:
0.3m - when the lens is pointing at myself at shorter than arm's length and trying to fill up 50% with a face. You can see ieR's earlier shot had his hand extended too far so there's a lot of space - after some practice you know what distance to hold out the camera and lens.
1m - when the lens is pointing at a performer and getting a full body shot.
2m - when the lens is taking architecture.
Everything else is covered by the amazing depth of field.
signither: I quite like that shot! Makes it far more interesting. But I think you knew that LOL.
XOFTXEMIT: Welcome!
ieR: Well you might end up using the fisheye on people who love it. Point it at people, and see if they go "FISHEYE!" If they do, you have permission to distort.
Kul | Mo0: There are old Vivitar lenses that are silver with AF.
Far left is a Cosina 19-35mm F3.5-4.5 in KAF-mount.
Clearer shot next to my Seagull 50mm F1.8 (used on my Fujifilm Digital Q1 IR camera.)
bro, can i know what is the price for tht opteka 85mm?? and where u bought it??
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(albnok @ Jan 2 2010, 12:11 AM)
Nashakir: On my Peleng 8mm F3.5 circular fisheye, I only ever, really set 3 different distances:
0.3m - when the lens is pointing at myself at shorter than arm's length and trying to fill up 50% with a face. You can see ieR's earlier shot had his hand extended too far so there's a lot of space - after some practice you know what distance to hold out the camera and lens.
1m - when the lens is pointing at a performer and getting a full body shot.
2m - when the lens is taking architecture.
Everything else is covered by the amazing depth of field.
ieR: Well you might end up using the fisheye on people who love it. Point it at people, and see if they go "FISHEYE!" If they do, you have permission to distort.
Nashakir: i do what like albnok did
0.3m - for face shot...
1m - for close group shot, say the round-table style... (but i seem to neglat it and choose the 1.5 more often now)
1.5-3m(they are close together) - for 'architecture', say indoor, taking the room, a small bush of flower +landscape, like street shooting (well, i have to walk up real close, imagine u walk 1.5m meter close to shoot at a person doing something... )
infinite - for landscape or anything that i wan to be sharp pass the 3m mark on the lens
albnok: well, my town, they(photographers) dont even know why my lens looked so funny.... they only know which camera to buy(d90, d90, and d90), never buy sony =.=|||... but so far, many friend started to learn, what is fisheye, and they love it when i uses my fisheye to shoot LOL...
freddy manson: You can't take a picture with such a setup LOL. The light wouldn't focus properly unless the lenses meet at their back flange distances.
neo_lam: The Opteka 85mm F1.4, I got through cjlai.
Kul | Mo0: It's not bad - it's in Pentax KAF which means K mount with AF.
ieR: I never found any real benefit to shooting at infinity - as focusing closer you can do hyperfocal focusing.
do anyone here have a problem to access alphanatics? i got this message:
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Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(albnok @ Jan 2 2010, 12:59 AM)
freddy manson: You can't take a picture with such a setup LOL. The light wouldn't focus properly unless the lenses meet at their back flange distances.
neo_lam: The Opteka 85mm F1.4, I got through cjlai.
Kul | Mo0: It's not bad - it's in Pentax KAF which means K mount with AF.
ieR: I never found any real benefit to shooting at infinity - as focusing closer you can do hyperfocal focusing.
hahaha, i dunno why, the lens errr focus list is 0.3 0.5 0.7 1m 1.5m 3m then infinity. if i was to put on 3m, shooting landscape, the infinity is not sharp....it looked like oof (when u zoomed 100%)
do anyone here have a problem to access alphanatics? i got this message:
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IeR , albnok : thanks for the reply, so thats mean fisheye with MF is no problem.. read sony one 16mm is not wide enough for apsc..
will include the fish in my buying list.. tq..
i got one more question here..
im new to F58 flash.. so more to learn.. so if the flash is set to TTL mode.. is the flash will be fired at full power no matter the lighting? cant set manually?
and one more thing, i cant set flash to manual mode except my cam is at Manual mode... (to control the flash power). i only have 1 dial so it is hard to change aperture and shutter..
any tricks for quick change? usually I set manual dial to control aperture, so when i want to set shutter i quick change to shutter mode and adjust.. and back to manual for aperture adjustment.
Dec 25 2009, 10:58 AM, updated 16y ago
- A200, A300, A350
Quote
want to ask when is sony next release new dlsr product?
...
.. u sure ? 
I missed the part where the groom finally manage to enter d bride's room!!!!.. i totally have no room to squeeze in.. but seeing how the main photographer guide the couple n ready for the each important moment...really good thing to learn... Im just a bit upset I dont know how to speak cantonese.. is hard to tell people what to do in mandarin.. (like weird) communication problem...
Luckily got A700 manage to push my iso up to 1000-1200 to cut down the need of flash power...
but dunno which 1 i need oso..... 
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